---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 02/16/03: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:33 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Lowell Metz) 2. 06:33 AM - Sight guage advice (Dr. Perry Morrison) 3. 06:49 AM - Re: Sight guage advice (Randall Stout) 4. 06:57 AM - Re: Re: Corvairs (dan john) 5. 07:45 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Randy L. Thwing) 6. 08:19 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Winston Ellis) 7. 09:43 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (mark.townsend) 8. 10:45 AM - Re: Sight guage advice (Bill Morelli) 9. 11:38 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Scott Laughlin) 10. 12:24 PM - Canopy lock and stering slot covers (Tim & Diane Shankland) 11. 03:13 PM - 701 bungee? (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com) 12. 03:18 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (Aaron) 13. 03:48 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (David & Maria Lumgair) 14. 03:54 PM - Re: Keep It Simple Fred (Bryan Martin) 15. 03:59 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (Brian Caithcart) 16. 04:37 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (John Montgomery) 17. 07:18 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (David & Maria Lumgair) 18. 07:25 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (George Swinford) 19. 07:29 PM - Re:cutting bar stock (Dave and Pam Fisher) 20. 08:44 PM - Re: Keep It Simple Fred (Gary Gower) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:33:54 AM PST US From: Lowell Metz Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: Lowell Metz Alex, You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. Wear a long sleeved shirt and good eye protection. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch aluminum this way for years. At 06:28 PM 2/15/03 -0500, you wrote: >--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent > > My 601 wheel forks are built of 1/4" 6061 t6 flat stock. I would like >to make new ones "as per drawing" of 3/16 with 3/16 doublers. The major >problem is how do you cut this material when you don't have a power hack >saw or band saw. I am not really keen on the hand hack saw route. > alex t. > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:33:54 AM PST US From: "Dr. Perry Morrison" Subject: Zenith-List: Sight guage advice --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous advice that recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a metal plug or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and which has a small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to eliminate slosh or movement in the line. Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage for a 601? Thanks Perry Morrison ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:25 AM PST US From: "Randall Stout" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sight guage advice --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randall Stout" I haven't made a site gauge, but I can tell you how I made a restrictor for my fuel pressure gauge. I just filled one of the fittings with solder, then drilled a 1/16" hole through the solder. In my case, it lets the pressure through but minimal fuel. You might need to experiment with the hole size since you want the fuel to actually go through it. Randy Stout - San Antonio TX CH601HD N282RS r5t0ut@earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Perry Morrison" Subject: Zenith-List: Sight guage advice > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" > > I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous advice > that > recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a metal > plug > or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and which has a > small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to eliminate > slosh > or movement in the line. > > Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage for a > 601? > > Thanks > > > Perry Morrison ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:57:40 AM PST US From: dan john Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Corvairs --> Zenith-List message posted by: dan john Mike, You might try Vi Kapler as a source for corvair engines. He is an AI who worked with Berne Pietenpol at the time Berne was devloping corvairs for flight.He is a good guy.He had 28 of them stashed away a few years ago,saved for people who wanted to convert them to aircraft engines.He lives in Rochester Minnesota.and his number is 507-288-3322.John --- Robert Rehmel wrote: > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Rehmel" > > > I would be interested also. I hunted around for a > few months for a core > and finally got one off of a guy in Milwaukee. > Around Dayton Ohio there > was a junk yard getting rid of Corviars. You had to > haul away the whole > car to get just the engine. > > If Wynne is putting together an engine mount for the > Zodiac is it going to > be just plans or do you buy the mount from him? > > > > [Original Message] > > From: nhulin > > To: > > Date: 2/13/2003 9:45:30 PM > > Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Corvairs > > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" > > > > > Mike, > > > > I had an email reply from William a couple of > weeks back. He is still > > intending to do the engine mounts. He advises that > the stock engine > cowling > > will work with the front mounted starter with an > added "bump". I'm still > > following up with the local Corsa club members for > a rebuildable core. > There > > doesn't seem to be too many Corvairs in the > mid-west. > > > > I'd really like to hear some first hand input from > anyone who has actually > > got to the point of hanging a Corvair on their > 601. Anyone out there? > > > > ...neil > > 601XL - doing wings and stuff > > > > > Me too! > > > > > > In fact, I sent an email to William Wynne to see > how he was coming along > > > (IF he was coming along) on a FWF kit for the > Corvair/601XL application. > > > Supposedly, he was working on one based on > comments made in ZAC's > > > newsletter. I sent that email a couple of weeks > ago and haven't heard > > > back yet. So any info on this engine choice > would be great. > > > > > > Mike Fortunato > > > 601XL > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- Robert Rehmel > --- traveler601@earthlink.net > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > latest messages. > List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:45:38 AM PST US From: "Randy L. Thwing" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" I wouldn't call 3/16" thickness Aluminum "bar" stock. A sabre saw works just fine, use a medium to fine tooth pitch blade (18 tpi?), tape up or otherwise shield the foot so the sheet surface doesn't get scratched, hang on and follow your line, cut slightly oversize, belt sand or file to finish. Piece of cake! Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas Subject: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar >when you don't have a power hack > saw or band saw. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:19:16 AM PST US From: Winston Ellis Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: Winston Ellis It helps to spray the blade (regular wood blade also works) with WD-40 to keep the teeth from gumming up and be sure to hold on to the piece you are cutting tightly! Winston Ellis 701/Suzuki Ketchum, Idaho Lowell Metz wrote: > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Lowell Metz > > Alex, > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. Wear a long > sleeved shirt and good eye protection. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch > aluminum this way for years. > At 06:28 PM 2/15/03 -0500, you wrote: > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent > > > > My 601 wheel forks are built of 1/4" 6061 t6 flat stock. I would like > >to make new ones "as per drawing" of 3/16 with 3/16 doublers. The major > >problem is how do you cut this material when you don't have a power hack > >saw or band saw. I am not really keen on the hand hack saw route. > > alex t. > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:43:18 AM PST US From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch > aluminum this way for years. My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well. Mark 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 10:45:22 AM PST US From: Bill Morelli Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sight guage advice --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli In my 601 HDS I added a restrictor which does minimize the movement of the fuel in the sight gauge. I took an in line brass connector for 1/4" ID tubing. Soldered it shut then drilled a 1/16" hole through the solder. I placed it in the tube that connects to the bottom of the sight gauge and goes to the tank bottom. Works rather well. Regards, Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 191.5 flight hrs. - 300 landings, 1 ON ICE!!) web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/ >I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous advice >that >recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a metal >plug >or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and which has a >small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to eliminate >slosh >or movement in the line. > >Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage for a >601? > >Thanks > > >Perry Morrison > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:38:34 AM PST US From: "Scott Laughlin" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" I use a chop saw (DeWalt electric Miter saw) with a 12" fine crosscutting, carbide tipped blade (wood-cutting blade). It makes nice, square cuts and it's not loud. You get little aluminum chips to clean up, but it works great and it's fast. I first tried a metal cutting blade on the same saw, but it is slow, loud and makes a bigger mess. Go get a chop saw and you will wonder why you didn't have one before. You can use it on all sorts of projects at home as well. ----Original Message Follows---- From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch > aluminum this way for years. My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well. Mark 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:13 PM PST US From: Tim & Diane Shankland Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy lock and stering slot covers --> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland For those of you who requested it the pictures of the canopy lock I have been notified that they are on the photo share. The pictures of the steering slot doors was sent today. Tim Shankland ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:13:02 PM PST US From: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: 701 bungee? --> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com Okay, gentlemen, maybe this is one of those, "Anybody should know that!" questions, but here's the deal: My 701 kit was right at the transition to the heavier gross weight/new drawings so that I have both sets of prints and therefore some "differences" between the two. ZAC has been helpful, no problem there. I built the heavier (later version) firewall/ nose gear/etc. Now, who can speak to the amount of vertical nose gear travel with the R912 engine, and which of the bungees are you using. Note that there have been two or three (maybe even four) different bungee cords spec'd by ZAC. At the changeover to the heavier gross weight & stiffer firewall, the bungee pin location & diameter changed. The change in pin location and the pre-stretch on the bungee of a given rating is my concern. Anybody had a problem with bungee being too weak for the engine weight? I am nearing the point of hanging the engine on it and it would sure be helpful to change the bungee now rather than afterward. And for you guys in Canada, "Hockey Day" yesterday was excellent. They mentioned several times something about a "new territory". What was that? We just never get Hudson Bay news in Texas. Thanks, Zed Smith 701/R912 do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:18:36 PM PST US From: "Aaron" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" Any of these methods will work fine. Use whatever you have and if that is only a hacksaw, that will work great too! (Even takes time off that spent on the treadmill). Improvise, think, learn, succeed. That is part of the EAA spirit and a part of the FAA law that makes building your own airplane a possiblity. Have fun and stay cool! Aaron ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 03:48:36 PM PST US From: "David & Maria Lumgair" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" Try a plywood blade in a table saw - put the blade in backwards. (NOT a carbide tipped one) Really nice cut for soft metals. Dave -DO NOT ARCHIVE- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Laughlin" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" > > I use a chop saw (DeWalt electric Miter saw) with a 12" fine crosscutting, > carbide tipped blade (wood-cutting blade). It makes nice, square cuts and > it's not loud. You get little aluminum chips to clean up, but it works > great and it's fast. I first tried a metal cutting blade on the same saw, > but it is slow, loud and makes a bigger mess. > > Go get a chop saw and you will wonder why you didn't have one before. You > can use it on all sorts of projects at home as well. > > > ----Original Message Follows---- > From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> > To: > Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar > Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 12:33:46 -0500 > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> > > > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw > > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen > my > friend cut 3/4 inch > > aluminum this way for years. > > My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe > consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well. > > Mark > 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:54:13 PM PST US From: Bryan Martin Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Keep It Simple Fred --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower > > > The templates can be built from any scrap piece of tin metal, just thin > enough to cut with the aviation sesers (sp?) The correct spelling is "snips". :) -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru. Airframe construction complete. Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior. do not archive. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:59:04 PM PST US From: "Brian Caithcart" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brian Caithcart" That is what everybody says until they try it. It is fun to watch bystanders run for cover when they see what you are about to do. A table saw works great for aluminum. Woodworking tools cut aluminum like butter. I cut all of my angle stock with my Delta 10" mitre saw and cut all of my sheet with a router. Ear plugs are still recommended though. Brian Caithcart CH601HD/corvair scratch building >From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> >Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar >Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 12:33:46 -0500 > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> > > > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw > > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen >my >friend cut 3/4 inch > > aluminum this way for years. > >My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe >consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well. > >Mark >601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:37:40 PM PST US From: John Montgomery <1arm@rogers.com> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: John Montgomery <1arm@rogers.com> why would you put the pywood blade in backwards? I s there a reason for this or is it an urban myth? I'm a looong way from cutting any landing gear or extrusions, but I need to start cutting .040 for doublers... John Montgomery, Ottawa, slowest XL builder on Earth David & Maria Lumgair wrote: >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" > >Try a plywood blade in a table saw - put the blade in backwards. (NOT a >carbide tipped one) Really nice cut for soft metals. Dave > >-DO NOT ARCHIVE- > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:02 PM PST US From: "David & Maria Lumgair" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" If you try it with the teeth facing forward - the blade takes too much bite - if they are facing back - it just nips the metal away a little at a time, leaves a nice edge too according to my father. I'd still cut outside the line and finish it with sweat. Dave do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Montgomery" <1arm@rogers.com> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar > --> Zenith-List message posted by: John Montgomery <1arm@rogers.com> > > why would you put the pywood blade in backwards? I s there a reason for > this or is it an urban myth? > > I'm a looong way from cutting any landing gear or extrusions, but I need > to start cutting .040 for doublers... > > John Montgomery, Ottawa, slowest XL builder on Earth > > David & Maria Lumgair wrote: > > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" > > > >Try a plywood blade in a table saw - put the blade in backwards. (NOT a > >carbide tipped one) Really nice cut for soft metals. Dave > > > >-DO NOT ARCHIVE- > > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:25:28 PM PST US From: "George Swinford" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" I've had good luck cutting aluminum up to 1/2 inch thick on a 14 inch bandsaw, using a fine tooth wood-cutting blade George ----- Original Message ----- From: "Winston Ellis" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Winston Ellis > > It helps to spray the blade (regular wood blade also works) with WD-40 to keep the > teeth from gumming up and be sure to hold on to the piece you are cutting tightly! > > Winston Ellis > 701/Suzuki > Ketchum, Idaho > > Lowell Metz wrote: > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Lowell Metz > > > > Alex, > > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw > > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. Wear a long > > sleeved shirt and good eye protection. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch > > aluminum this way for years. > > At 06:28 PM 2/15/03 -0500, you wrote: > > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent > > > > > > My 601 wheel forks are built of 1/4" 6061 t6 flat stock. I would like > > >to make new ones "as per drawing" of 3/16 with 3/16 doublers. The major > > >problem is how do you cut this material when you don't have a power hack > > >saw or band saw. I am not really keen on the hand hack saw route. > > > alex t. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 07:29:57 PM PST US From: Dave and Pam Fisher Subject: Zenith-List: Re:cutting bar stock --> Zenith-List message posted by: Dave and Pam Fisher Try a circular saw with a regular carbide tipped blade for wood - any will work but those with close spaced teeth are best. Don't set the depth of cut any deeper than necessary for the material you're cutting. I've cut everything from .040 in. to one quarter inch and I suspect it would work for thicker stock if you go slow and don't overheat the blade. ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:44:11 PM PST US From: Gary Gower Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Keep It Simple Fred --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower Thanks Bryan, English is my second language, and is great to learn more everyday. Mostly non common (everyday) words. Saludos Gary Gower Do not archive. --- Bryan Martin wrote: > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin > > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower > > > > > > The templates can be built from any scrap piece of tin metal, just > thin > > enough to cut with the aviation sesers (sp?) > > The correct spelling is "snips". :) > > > -- > Bryan Martin > N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru. > Airframe construction complete. > Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior. > do not archive. > > > > > > > >