Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:39 AM - sheet/bar stock? (alex trent)
2. 08:25 AM - Re: sheet/bar stock? (Randy L. Thwing)
3. 10:03 AM - Re: Sight guage advice (Brenton Battles)
4. 01:22 PM - Harbor Freight Coupon (Scott Laughlin)
5. 02:00 PM - The twin VW Zodiac (Gary Gower)
6. 02:27 PM - Re: 6.5 mm reamer (Larry C. McFarland)
7. 05:19 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 02/17/03 (daddybob)
8. 09:30 PM - Center Console Photos (Bill Morelli)
Message 1
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Subject: | sheet/bar stock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent <atrent7@cogeco.ca>
> >
> > Then what would you call a piece 3/16" x 4" x 6' ?
> > Anyway what ever you want to call it thanks for the tip.
One of the advantages of this list, great learning experience.
I had never given a thought to how it was manufactured, just assumed it
would be extruded. Seems a but awkward referring to a piece stocked and
sold this shape as sheet stock.
>
> Answer:
>
> A piece of thick "sheet" aluminum. It was cut from a rolled sheet, it was
> never extruded as a 3/16" x 4" "bar".
>
> There is a thickness where "sheet" turns into "plate" Although rectangles
> can be extruded to standard sizes (i.e. 1" x 2"), these same sizes are often
> "sawn" from plate of the appropriate thickness.
>
>
>
> And, don't get me started on the widely tossed around term: "billet".
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Randy, Las vegas
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: sheet/bar stock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
I have since been properly corrected. Aluminum in 1/8" and 3/16" thickness
can be produced:
1. Cut from sheet
2. Rolled into shape
3. Extruded
Chagrined in Las Vegas,
Randy L. Thwing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent <atrent7@cogeco.ca>
>
>
> > >
> > > Then what would you call a piece 3/16" x 4" x 6' ?
> > > Anyway what ever you want to call it thanks for the tip.
>
>
> One of the advantages of this list, great learning experience.
> I had never given a thought to how it was manufactured, just assumed it
> would be extruded. Seems a but awkward referring to a piece stocked and
> sold this shape as sheet stock.
>
> >
> > Answer:
> >
> > A piece of thick "sheet" aluminum. It was cut from a rolled sheet, it
was
> > never extruded as a 3/16" x 4" "bar".
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Sight guage advice |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brenton Battles <brentbattles@charter.net>
I am very happy with my sight gauge installation which can be seen at:
http://webpages.charter.net/brentbattles/modifications.htm
I have no restrictor in the line and, although the indicated quantity
will change when in other than level flight, it otherwise does not
slosh around. I transfer fuel from two leading edge tanks (without
fuel senders) to my 16 gallon header tank via an inlet T fitting which
is positioned at the top of the sight gauge tube (feeding both tube and
tank). When I switch on the transfer pump (the adjacent yellow rocker
switch in the illustration) I can confirm initial flow by noting air
bubbles in a downward flow of fuel. I would think a restrictor would
not allow this flow confirmation which is also useful in detecting when
a wing tank is exhausted.
I also extended my gauge below the panel to allow reading as few as 4
gallons remaining although I always refuel when reaching 6 gallons.
Hope this helps,
Brent Battles
N16BZ 372 hours
On Monday, February 17, 2003, at 02:58 AM, Zenith-List Digest Server
wrote:
> Re: Zenith-List: Sight guage advice
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison"
<prm@softhome.net>
I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous
advicethat
recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a
metal
plug or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and
which has a
small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to
eliminate
slosh or movement in the line.
Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage
for a
601?
Thanks
Perry Morrison
Message 4
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Subject: | Harbor Freight Coupon |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
Hi guys, I need your help.
I received a Harbor Freight 20% off coupon a few weeks ago via email and I
accidentally deleted it. I now need to use it. If any of you are on the
Harbor Freight mailing list and still have that coupon, can you forward it
to me off line?
Thank you,
Scott Laughlin
Omaha, NE
601XL making rib forms
Message 5
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Subject: | The twin VW Zodiac |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hi Friends:
In the Culver Props page
http://www.culverprops.com/
Go to the "picture gallery" under "Coustomer" there is a photo of the
Twin VW Zodiac flying, It did fly.
Hope I lived near his place, I will help him to make a pair of better
fibergalss cowlings (for free, just to support his project).
The one he built look very draggy!
If the builder is in the list: CONGRATULATIONS! for your plane, I like
rare projects.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not archive.
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: 6.5 mm reamer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 6.5 mm reamer
>
> Hi List. I am currently making the bell cranks for
> the 601 XL ailerons. The drawings call for a 1/4"
> hole to be reamed to 6.5 mm after riveting. I can get
> a reamer to do these 2 holes for $34 plus taxes.
> Seems a bit steep. Anyone have any advice? Thanks
> for any suggestions you send my way.
> David
>
> =====
> David Barth
> 601 XL Plansbuilder
> Currently making parts.
> Stab and Rudder waiting for skins
David,
I'd suggest you use a new 1/4" drill in a drill press, after drilling, a
1/4" steel rod with
coarse rubbing compound will pick up the remainder of the nearly .002 you
may need. It's a
fit that allows the bellcrank to pivot cleanly about the bolt. It could
have been .001 or .0025 for
it to work. Check the pivot before enlarging the hole. I bet it'll rotate
right after drilling.
Larry
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 02/17/03 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: daddybob <daddybob52954@yahoo.com>
I hope I'm doing this right. Hello list, I'm a newbie
and will be mostly a lurker, hoping to learn more to
someday build a 701. I saw this about cutting
aluminum, and of course it's good, but I thought I'd
throw something in, and if it's been covered, 'scuse
me.
I work a lot in light aluminum and copper sheet, and
we do most of our cutting with circular saws, hand
held 7", 8" table saw and 16" chop saw, using Tenryu
Alumicut blades with excellent results. There are
other blades, but no one has beat Tenryu for their
thin plate and thin kerf, which yields a pretty smooth
cut. You can buy just about any size in these blades
and use them in any kind of circular saw. They're not
cheap, but they last forever and can be resharpened.
I've got 4- 7" blades that I've had for 2-3 years and
are on their third sharpening.
DB in NC
> A sabre saw works
> > just fine, use a medium to fine tooth pitch blade
> (18 tpi?), tape up or
> > otherwise shield the foot so the sheet surface
> doesn't get scratched, hang
> > on and follow your line, cut slightly oversize,
> belt sand or file to finish.
> > Piece of cake!
Message 8
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Subject: | Center Console Photos |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli <billvt@together.net>
I posted Fred Hulens center console photos to my web site (address below).
Follow the construction link then the link to Fred's fairing and center
console.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 191.5 flight hrs. - 300
landings, 1 ON ICE!!)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
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