Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: Fuel pumps and check valve - once more (Michel Therrien)
2. 04:59 AM - Re: Fuel pumps and check valve - once more (Grant Corriveau)
3. 07:03 AM - Re: Fuel pumps and check valve - once more (Michel Therrien)
4. 08:11 AM - Propeller Bolts (Bill Shirley Mitchell)
5. 08:22 AM - Re: Propeller Bolts (Pinneo, George)
6. 08:23 AM - Re: 701 rudder cable fairlead (Pinneo, George)
7. 10:15 AM - Re: Propeller Bolts (Michel Therrien)
8. 10:19 AM - Re: 701 rudder cable fairlead (Jim Frisby)
9. 12:23 PM - Re: 701 rudder cable fairlead (George Swinford)
10. 12:34 PM - Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (nhulin)
11. 01:46 PM - 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff (Larry Bohannon)
12. 02:07 PM - Re: 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff (Pinneo, George)
13. 02:34 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (Bryan Martin)
14. 02:55 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (Larry C. McFarland)
15. 03:12 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (wizard-24@juno.com)
16. 03:38 PM - Re: Propeller Bolts (Jim Frisby)
17. 03:51 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (nhulin)
18. 04:00 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (Michel Therrien)
19. 05:10 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (Bryan Martin)
20. 07:19 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? (Pete Ferguson)
21. 08:35 PM - Re: Propeller Bolts (Ed)
22. 08:49 PM - Re: 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff (Chuck Deiterich)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pumps and check valve - once more |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
It's the 40108 which has a check valve. I did further
testing yesterday PM. On one side, I'm using a check
valve in series with the pump on the other I'm not.
The side that I'm not using a check valve in series is
better (less back flow) than the one I am. On that
side where I use a check valve in series with the
pump, I have a back flow of about 0.8 liter per hour.
On the other side, I was not patient enough to
measure, but I would say .2 liter per hour. It seems
that the side with the check valve is more noisy
probably because the ball in the valve clicks at every
pump cycle.
It is surprising that I did not get any other comments
on this post as this has been discussed in the past
and those who wrote in the past now have experience
with using the system.
Michel
--- George Swinford <grs-pms@attbi.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
> <grs-pms@attbi.com>
>
> Michel:
>
> Are you using the Facet 40171 pump, which supposedly
> has a check valve?
>
> George Swinford
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps and check valve -
> once more
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien
> <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Hi all!
> >
> > Yesterday, I tested my right side fuel pump to see
> how
> > everything works. When I turned it on, fuel was
> > leaking ( a small jet) from the left side pump. I
> > tought that the check valve within the pump is not
> > that great and I went to the archive and found
> several
> > good threads on this subject.
> >
> > So, following what many did, I installed an ACS
> check
> > valve after the pump ( on the left side). This
> > morning, I try the test again and I see no
> difference
> > at all both at 0 fuel pressure (downstream hose
> open)
> > or at 3psi. I figure that the reason is the lack
> of
> > potential back flow (the facet pump brings the
> flow to
> > a very low level). In fact, I wonder if two check
> > valves in series is not counter-productive for
> this
> > purpose.
> >
> > Now that I know this system will have gas
> transferring
> > between the tanks... is this a real issue?
> >
> > Michel
> >
> >
> > =====
> > ----------------------------
> > Michel Therrien CH601-HD
> > http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> >
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> > http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
> >
> > http://platinum.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pumps and check valve - once more |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> Now that I know this system will have gas transferring
> between the tanks... is this a real issue?
Michel,
I have left and right wing tanks joining at the center cockpit before
flowing forward to the engine. I do NOT have a check valve between the two
tanks - just one Facet pump in each line near the tank. Consequently, if I
park the aircraft on a level surface for a day or two, any difference in the
tanks tends to gradually even out. Also, I have to watch that I don't park
the aircraft on an uneven surface when both tanks are full or one will flow
into the other and cause an overflow.
A very simple operational solution is that I select my fuel line valves OFF
when parking at the end of the day.
Otherwise I see no problem with just having the check valve function,
imperfect as it is, in the Facet pumps.
On a related matter - I was told that someone 'snagged' your fuel selector
valves for not having a positive OPEN detent. I have the same valves and I
have to disagree. Mine (at least) do have a positive open detent, but it
isn't of the same magnitude as a $150 aviation valve. I think it's adequate,
but just to be extra-safe, I intend to add a mechanical 'guard' that will
prevent accidental movement of the valve selector. fwiw...
Regards,
Grant Corriveau
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pumps and check valve - once more |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Thanks Grant!
I did not get snagged as this was a pre-cover
inspection (which by the way I proudly passed with no
snag :-), but I got a warning for the final
inspection.
It seems that these valves are evaluated pretty
inconsistently. The week before me, a friend using
ball valves (those with a red handled) passed an
inspection without any comment on his valves (same
inspector). I see what you mean with the positive
detent on our valves... they appear to be spring
loaded so they would tend to stay full open when they
vibrate (in my mind). This was not obvious when the
inspector came as the valve never saw any liquid.. it
is more obvious now that I tested them with fuel.
I'm gonna remove the check valve I added as I think it
provides more potential for problems than solutions.
Michel
--- Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau
> <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>
> > From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> > Now that I know this system will have gas
> transferring
> > between the tanks... is this a real issue?
>
> Michel,
>
> I have left and right wing tanks joining at the
> center cockpit before
> flowing forward to the engine. I do NOT have a check
> valve between the two
> tanks - just one Facet pump in each line near the
> tank. Consequently, if I
> park the aircraft on a level surface for a day or
> two, any difference in the
> tanks tends to gradually even out. Also, I have to
> watch that I don't park
> the aircraft on an uneven surface when both tanks
> are full or one will flow
> into the other and cause an overflow.
>
> A very simple operational solution is that I select
> my fuel line valves OFF
> when parking at the end of the day.
>
> Otherwise I see no problem with just having the
> check valve function,
> imperfect as it is, in the Facet pumps.
>
> On a related matter - I was told that someone
> 'snagged' your fuel selector
> valves for not having a positive OPEN detent. I have
> the same valves and I
> have to disagree. Mine (at least) do have a positive
> open detent, but it
> isn't of the same magnitude as a $150 aviation
> valve. I think it's adequate,
> but just to be extra-safe, I intend to add a
> mechanical 'guard' that will
> prevent accidental movement of the valve selector.
> fwiw...
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Shirley Mitchell <slandwcmitch@yahoo.com>
Hi List
Anybody have a source for propeller bolts. Continental Engine and Sensenich Prop?
Aircraft Spruce advises this morning they can't get them. Maybe available as surplus.
---------------------------------
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo@trw.com>
Auto Stores sell black-oxide finished metric bolts I use on my Warp/Rotax, at least
Pep Boys does in CA. I have to drill the heads to safety wire them, but that's
not a biggie.
GGP
Message 6
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| Subject: | 701 rudder cable fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo@trw.com>
UHMWPE will NOT very much very fast. NO PULLEYS!
GGP
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Propeller Bolts |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I learned just recently about bolt shops. These are
shops that sell only bolts and nuts. There are
several of them in my area and you should be able to
find one in the yellow pages where you are.
--- Bill Shirley Mitchell <slandwcmitch@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Shirley
> Mitchell <slandwcmitch@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi List
>
> Anybody have a source for propeller bolts.
> Continental Engine and Sensenich Prop?
>
> Aircraft Spruce advises this morning they can't get
> them. Maybe available as surplus.
>
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | 701 rudder cable fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
I'm building a CH801, there are several places where the cable at the
fairlead bends in excess of 3 degrees (estimated). I plan to determine the
need for pulleys or re-routing while the aircraft is "in service" as I don't
believe that any wear will be fast enought to cause an unsafe condition
before I can catch it. In fact, when I asked Nick Heintz about it, he said
that the factory demo has shown no fairlead or cable wear at those points.
Jim Frisby
N801ZA
Palmer, AK
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 701 rudder cable fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
The "three degrees or less" rule of thumb for cables changing angle at a
fairlead is not so much for fairlead wear as for the effort required to bend
the cable, which the pilot feels as added friction in the control system.
The same goes for the rules on control system pulley diameter. Of course,
the sharper the bend the sooner the cable strands will fatigue and break.
George Swinford
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 701 rudder cable fairlead
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm building a CH801, there are several places where the cable at the
> fairlead bends in excess of 3 degrees (estimated). I plan to determine
the
> need for pulleys or re-routing while the aircraft is "in service" as I
don't
> believe that any wear will be fast enought to cause an unsafe condition
> before I can catch it. In fact, when I asked Nick Heintz about it, he
said
> that the factory demo has shown no fairlead or cable wear at those points.
> Jim Frisby
> N801ZA
> Palmer, AK
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
Listers,
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the fiberglass wing tip to fit the wing
leading edge skin. So far the best I can get is a gap at the leading edge
bend of around 15mm. This was with the use of considerable force applied by
a tie down strap. I don't want to use any more force for fear of bending the
LE skin. I checked the profile of the LE skin against a nose rib from the
other wing and it is OK.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, ...neil
Neil Hulin
601XL, Cincinnati, Ohio
Message 11
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| Subject: | 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Bohannon" <lbohannon1@mindspring.com>
I've just got the skeleton finished of my right wing and am about ready to start
skinning. Looking a few pages ahead to the installation of the fuel tank I see
I'm gonna need to buy a few more items I don't have yet,such as a flycutter.
I know where to get a flycutter but can anyone tell me where to get the following:
1. Manual says to put some "fuel resistant adhesive" on the threads of the drain
and outlet.I know about teflon tape and pipe dope used in regular water plumbing
but I don't think they are fuel resistant nor adhesive. What is this stuff
and can i order it from AC Spruce?
2. Also, is there some type of locktite stuff to put on the bolts that will be
inside the wing such as the front strut bolts? I know about locktite but it might
melt the nylon in the nut? Is there something else that is used for aircraft
bolts? Available at AC Spruce?
3.I looked through the archives before I started on the wing to see if there were
any good ideas on things to add or cautions to watch out for on building the
wing. One idea i liked and added to my wing was the "false ribs" or" skin stiffiners"
to help against oilcanning.Does anybody else have any other ideas or
cautions they can suggest that would be good to add or not to the wing before
I close it up?
Thanks for the help and hope to see some of ya'll at Sun n Fun! Just driving down
with the family this year but hopefully can fly down next year!
Regards,
Larry Bohannon
Winder, Georgia
701 #5040
rudder,stab and elevator complete
working on right wing
Message 12
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| Subject: | 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo@trw.com>
I like Teflon tape, wound in the correct direction, one layer only; I've had it
in my 601 since 1995 with no issues. You can buy a paste form of Teflon that
some like.
GGP
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm having a lot of trouble getting the fiberglass wing tip to fit the wing
> leading edge skin. So far the best I can get is a gap at the leading edge
> bend of around 15mm. This was with the use of considerable force applied by
> a tie down strap. I don't want to use any more force for fear of bending the
> LE skin. I checked the profile of the LE skin against a nose rib from the
> other wing and it is OK.
>
You shouldn't need to use a tie down strap to fit the fiberglass wing tip as
this part is fitted after the skins are riveted to the wing skeleton and the
end of the wing is cut off at a 45 angle. I just pushed the fiberglass
forward against the skin and it fit very well. As I recall, I may have had
to pull the fiberglass up to the aluminum a bit with the rivets to get a
snug fit. I just posted some photos to the matronics site of my wingtip
installation. They should show up at photo share in a few days.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm having a lot of trouble getting the fiberglass wing tip to fit the
wing
> leading edge skin. So far the best I can get is a gap at the leading edge
> bend of around 15mm. This was with the use of considerable force applied
by
> a tie down strap. I don't want to use any more force for fear of bending
the
> LE skin. I checked the profile of the LE skin against a nose rib from the
> other wing and it is OK.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks, ...neil
> Neil Hulin
> 601XL, Cincinnati, Ohio
Neil,
You might do better by cutting a section out of the tip and fiberglassing
the halves
back together. Shouldn't be a serious problem.
Larry McFarland - 601-hds
Do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
> I'm having a lot of trouble getting the fiberglass wing tip to fit
> the wing leading edge skin. So far the best I can get is a gap at the
leading
> edge bend of around 15mm.
I had the same exact problem, and fiddled with it forever and still
couldn't get a good fit. Either I pulled it up to the top side with a
small gap at the bottom near the leading edge, or vice-versa. I finally
decided to do the best I could, with the thought that I'll close the
small gaps with filler later on.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
Stalled -- waiting to find a hangar
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Propeller Bolts |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
I guess this doesn't strictly apply to experimental use, but Sensenich
specifies bolts made for the purpose of propeller to crankshaft mounting,
common AN bolts (nor any other) are allowed in certified applications.
>From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Propeller Bolts
>Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:13:20 -0800 (PST)
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
>I learned just recently about bolt shops. These are
>shops that sell only bolts and nuts. There are
>several of them in my area and you should be able to
>find one in the yellow pages where you are.
>
>
>--- Bill Shirley Mitchell <slandwcmitch@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Shirley
> > Mitchell <slandwcmitch@yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> > Hi List
> >
> > Anybody have a source for propeller bolts.
> > Continental Engine and Sensenich Prop?
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce advises this morning they can't get
> > them. Maybe available as surplus.
> >
>
>http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
Thanks Bryan,
This is the sort of feedback I'm looking for. Maybe I got a bad pair of
fiberglass tips. I don't want to drill and regret it later.
I'm at the stage where I've rough cut the LE skin O/B end and everything is
clecoed together (except the fiberglass tips). There is no way I can close
the gap at the leading edge without something bending or kinking. The tie
down was applying a lot of force. I looked at it again today and I've sent
an email to Nick @ ZAC.
I can sight along the NR tips and hold the fiberglass tip in position at the
correct angle. It just doesn't line up. The radius of the leading edge is
too big.
How did you install yours? Did you have the LE skin open, rivet the bottom,
then close the skin over the NRs and the tip? If so, how did you measure the
position of the tip?
Looking forward to seeing the photos.
Thanks, ...neil
> From: Bryan Martin
> Date: Wed Mar 19 - 2:34 PM
> You shouldn't need to use a tie down strap to fit the fiberglass wing tip
as
> this part is fitted after the skins are riveted to the wing skeleton and
the
> end of the wing is cut off at a 45 angle. I just pushed the fiberglass
> forward against the skin and it fit very well. As I recall, I may have had
> to pull the fiberglass up to the aluminum a bit with the rivets to get a
> snug fit.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I remember having a lot of difficulty doing this. I
can't remember exactly how I did it, but I know that
four hands were used (my father in law helped me).
Straps are not needed as the wing is already closed.
We pushed the fiberglass tip in position, marked the
cut line on the skin, re-installed and drilled.
--- nhulin <nhulin@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin"
> <nhulin@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm having a lot of trouble getting the fiberglass
> wing tip to fit the wing
> leading edge skin. So far the best I can get is a
> gap at the leading edge
> bend of around 15mm. This was with the use of
> considerable force applied by
> a tie down strap. I don't want to use any more force
> for fear of bending the
> LE skin. I checked the profile of the LE skin
> against a nose rib from the
> other wing and it is OK.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks, ...neil
> Neil Hulin
> 601XL, Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks Bryan,
>
> I'm at the stage where I've rough cut the LE skin O/B end and everything is
> clecoed together (except the fiberglass tips). There is no way I can close
> the gap at the leading edge without something bending or kinking. The tie
> down was applying a lot of force. I looked at it again today and I've sent
> an email to Nick @ ZAC.
>
> I can sight along the NR tips and hold the fiberglass tip in position at the
> correct angle. It just doesn't line up. The radius of the leading edge is
> too big.
>
> How did you install yours? Did you have the LE skin open, rivet the bottom,
> then close the skin over the NRs and the tip? If so, how did you measure the
> position of the tip?
>
> Looking forward to seeing the photos.
>
> Thanks, ...neil
>
When I first looked at the fiberglass tip, before I did any trimming of the
o/b end, It didn't look right either. It was hard to visualize how it would
fit. I just put it aside and got to work on the main part of the wing. I
didn't look at it again until I had all the skins riveted down to the
skeleton and most of the trimming done on the o/b end. I used the upper and
lower edges of the 45 cut on the spar tip as references and marked off the
measurements from the drawings as a starting point. I roughed in a trim line
and then made my first cut well outboard of this line. I started gradually
trimming off the excess using a 2 by 4 foot sheet of paneling as a reference
plane to get within a few millimeters of where the final edge would be and
then took off the rest with a file. I would stand directly in front of the
wing and sighted across the cut end to check for any deviation and then go
back to filing. It was slow work but in the end I could put that sheet of
paneling flat on the on the cut off end and make contact all the way around.
After the o/b end was trimmed to its final shape it was much easier to see
how the tip would fit. At that point the tip fit the opening fairly well. I
Don't recall any gap at the nose of the wingtip but there may have been some
gapping towards the rear but the part flexed enough to pull up tight when it
was clecoed in place.
By the way, don't rely too heavily on the measurements for the o/b end cut
from the drawings. Consider them to be a rough guideline. Cut well outboard
with your first cut and work your way in.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wingtip Tips? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Pete Ferguson" <pfergus2@tampabay.rr.com>
Fiberglass ? Here's a trick - try heating up the fiberglass wing tip with a
heat-gun ( go slow an use low temp to start ) as the fiberglass heats up can
manipulate it ( wear heavy leather glove or oven mitt ). I did this, and it
worked fine. I also took an extras step and made a plug from the outline of
the sheet metal. I stuck the plug into the fiberglass tip as it cooled to
keep it's new shape. If the parts are really bad, just call Zenith. I have
had no problem returning parts for replacement.
Pete Ferguson
N601PK
601HDS Jab 3300
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Propeller Bolts |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed" <orion@silcom.com>
I got a set of bolts with the Sensenich propeller...quite expensive though.
Ordered them at the same time although they were shipped from somewhere else
as I recall. Bought the flange from ACS to match up with the Lycoming
engine...all fitted together perfectly. Would suggest that this is one of
those places where only the "right" item will do.
Ed 601hds
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Larry,
Sometime ago, ZAC told me to use Seal Lube on all my fuel fittings. Many
say using Teflon tape is not good as a piece may get loose and plug up the
system.
You can see my tank installation at http://members.thegateway.net/cfd look
under "Airplane, Wing Tanks".
Chuck D.
N701TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bohannon <lbohannon1@mindspring.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 fuel tank and miscellanous stuff
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