Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:40 AM - Re: Rudder Nose Skin- 601XL (g t)
2. 11:26 AM - Holes in seat bottom for cables on 701 (owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com)
3. 06:59 PM - Re: Rudder Nose Skin- 601XL (nhulin)
4. 07:49 PM - new address (Robert Wetzel)
5. 11:15 PM - Locating holes in the blind (Jim Frisby)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Nose Skin- 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: g t <wauwis2002@yahoo.com>
Larry,
Sorry to hear about your nose skin problem. I did "exactly" the same thing at
the rudder school. Two things that I did wrong included 1) Not having the nose
skin high enough on the rudder (Although as you found out - this only accounts
for several mm's of edge distance) and 2) the nose rib was installed with a
90 degree angle to the spar as the instructions called for. Just before drilling,
I was told to push the nose rib up in order to get the skin tight. The
got tight, but it also pulled out enough that I too only had 3mm of edge distance.
The 90 degree angle is critical as pushing it up only a few degree is really
pushing out the nose skin a lot based upon the geometry.
Another possibility for your results could be a mislocated nose rib. If it is
too high you will end up pushing the skin away from the spar. Also check you
skin size to make sure it was not cut short originally, there should be excess
material.
A valuable lesson was learned by my mistake and that is "when" (Not if) I get permission
to buy the rest of the kit, I will draw a minimum penetration line on
skins that go in and get drilled with no ability to see how much overlap you
have. As long as the line is not visible, you will automatically have sufficient
edge clearance.
Hope this helps you out.
Good Luck,
Tom TGrones@Charter.net Rudder School Done, Still persuading the better half.
Zenith@portouw.com wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted by:
Well, Ive just screwed up my rudder nose skin. I mounted it and drilled it
yesterday and when I removed it, much to my horror discovered that the edge
distance for the holes varied between 3mm at the top and 5mm at the bottom.
Not going to work. Im trying to analyze what happened. It fits tight to
the ribs. At first I thought that sliding the skin toward the top of the
rudder would help, but I only gain about 2mm by doing that for a uniform 6mm
edge distance with careful placement. Perplexed at this point. The part is
clearly junk, but I need to figure out what happened before I go after a
second attempt. Ill call Zenith on Monday. Maybe the skin is too small?
Has anyone else run into this? Does anyone know the max distance along the
front face of the spar from the bottom of the spar to the bottom edge of the
nose skin.
Larry Portouw
Ft. Huachuca, AZ
(FHU)
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Holes in seat bottom for cables on 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by:
Hello list members.
I am about to prime the forward fuselage on my Z 701, and before I do that I
will need to drill some holes in the seat bottom for the rudder cables and
other hoses and wires, such as the airspeed and pitot tubes, fuel hoses and
battery cable.
(understand that the battery will need to be in the rear fuselage if using the
Rotax 912 for a Zenith 701)
My question is, how did you route these cables and hoses?
Did you use the channel above the door for fuel and airspeed tubes? Is it
possible?
I do not want to drill too many holes in the seat bottom if there is no need
for them.
Your advise is appreciated.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Stol 701
-------------------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Nose Skin- 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
> I'm doing a 701, and the problem is the same, mostly. That is, how to
locate
> reference points that are covered by skin.
There is a simple way to get edge distances on hidden flanges such as the
wing spar but you can probably adapt this idea for a lot of other
situations. It is a variation of the rivet hole finder. Take two pieces of
scrap 0.025 about 100mm long and 15mm wide (the actual dimensions don't
matter). Put a 90 degree bend in the end of one about 5mm from the end. Line
up the other piece along the back of the bent piece so that the end is level
with the inside of the bend. When the pieces are together, drill and rivet
the end opposite the bend. Two rivets is all that is needed. To help
visualize the way the two pieces fit together imaging a 7 and a 1 next to
each other but joined at the bottom. Mark down from the bend the correct
edge distance and drill a #40 hole. This is your pilot hole. To use this
device, slip the bent piece under the skin and hook the spar or hidden
flange. The straight piece is on top of the skin and the end lines up with
the edge of the spar or flange (handy for marking) and the #40 hole is the
correct distance from the flange edge. Draw tick marks at the appropriate
rivet interval and simply slide the tool along until you see a tick mark
through the pilot hole - drill. Couldn't be simpler. I'll see if I can get a
photo and diagram up on the photo share.
Hope that this helps someone. I know that it make the work on the spar
flange a whole lot simpler, faster, and less error prone.
...neil
Neil Hulin
601XL (wings and stuff - still...)
Cincinnati, Ohio
Message 4
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<f531@epix.net>,
"Emil Giordano" <EGiord7630@aol.com>,
"Henry Schmidt"
<hschmidt30@comcast.net>,
"Jim Lartin-Drake" <drake@dickinson.edu>,
"John Wetzel" <jwetzel32@yahoo.com>, <KleinDaK@aol.com>,
"Michael
Brook" <walruss@optushome.com.au>,
"Olenik Aviation"
<Olenik_Aviation@lb.bcentral.com>,
"Paul and Ethel"
<paulandethel@enter.net>,
"Ron Steber" <rons2@microserve.net>, <SPIRALWINGS@aol.com>,
"STERNER,KERRY J." <STERNEKJ@apci.com>,
"The
Good Sam Club" <admin@rvn.net>, "Wasylik" <wasylik@magicnet.net>,
<Wbw0604@aol.com>, "Wetzel, Robert J" <robert.j.wetzel@lmco.com>,
<ZodiacBuilder@aol.com>, <freundcj@aol.com>, <hackerjoma@enter.net>,
<lostaviation@netzero.net>, <rjwetzel@comcast.net>, <standing@fast.net>,
<tawetzel@comcast.net>, <vne115@netzero.com>, <zenith-list@matronics.com>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Wetzel" <lufthund@regiononline.com>
Please use lufthund@netzero.net for any Emails
Thanks
Bob Wetzel
-
This message was sent from:
http://www.regiononline.com !
Stop by and see what's going on in YOUR region NOW!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Locating holes in the blind |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
I used some small (3/8" diameter, 3/16" thick) round magnets. I taped them
to the flange to be drilled into, such that their centers were along the
rivet line.
You can pre-test the magnetic lines of force so you know how it will look,
by centering the magnet behind a mark on a piece of aluminum and sprinkling
filings over it. Observe the shape of the pattern in relation to the mark.
Then, when the skin was clamped in place, I sprinkle some iron filings over
the magnets. From the pattern of the filings, it is easy to see where the
center of the magnet is. I draw lines between the magnets on the skin and
drill for the rivets along the line, works great.
Jim Frisby
Palmer, AK
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