Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - Re: ZAC Lycoming engine mount / magneto (Royer, Michel)
2. 06:12 AM - Calculating DL's (Kafka, Jeff)
3. 06:41 AM - Re: Cutting Extrusions / Tools (Carlson, Dale)
4. 06:46 AM - Re: Calculating DL's (Carlos Sa)
5. 06:54 AM - Spar tip (CH601 HD) (Carlos Sa)
6. 07:55 AM - Re: Subaru Alternator Light ? (Don Walker)
7. 08:45 AM - Re: Jabiru engines in Zenair planes (Doon47@aol.com)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: Build time (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
9. 09:31 AM - Re: Subaru Alternator Light ? (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
10. 12:43 PM - Re: Calculating DL's (Kafka, Jeff)
11. 01:13 PM - Re: Re: Calculating DL's (Scott Laughlin)
12. 01:55 PM - Zodie Rockets at SnF (Jeff Small)
13. 02:02 PM - Re: ZAC Lycoming engine mount / magneto (Gary Liming)
14. 02:42 PM - ch 701 pitot tube route (Flydog1966@aol.com)
15. 02:54 PM - Band Saw and Blades (RURUNY@aol.com)
16. 04:14 PM - For Sale - HDS Wing Locker Tanks (Jake Reyna)
17. 05:33 PM - Re: Subaru Alternator Light ? (Philip Polstra)
18. 05:35 PM - Re: Zodie Rockets at SnF (Philip Polstra)
19. 06:36 PM - Re: Band Saw and Blades (Cy Galley)
Message 1
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | ZAC Lycoming engine mount / magneto |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Royer, Michel" <RoyerM@tc.gc.ca>
Ed ...Could you include me on the Pic's. I have the same setup.
do not archive
Michel Royer
A/Chief Data Admin/Data Base Group
613-998-7812
royerm@tc.gc.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed [mailto:orion@silcom.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: ZAC Lycoming engine mount / magneto
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed" <orion@silcom.com>
Hi Jim.
I went with CDI ignition on my Lycoming 0-235, partly for weight but mainly
as the mags that came with it were not good (no core value either) I bought
the "lightspeed" system from Klaus at Santa Paula Airport and used the crank
sensor which just blanks off the mag mounting altogether. Actually ended up
with a dual system and have been very impressed with it's performance.
(Plugs are cheaper too).
He has a website which is worth reading through, many advantages with the
system, not least of which is starting with two sparks as opposed to mags
with just one. I have pics of the installation if you are interested,
contact me off list.
Ed 601hds
do not archive
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Calculating DL's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kafka, Jeff" <JKafka@trojanuv.com>
(Below is a message just sent to Nick at ZAC. I would welcome input form the list
as well. I am confident I am doing the math correctly, as I usually can confirm
the DL in the plans, but every so often it doesnt work out.)
I am plans building a 601XL.
In an attempt to avoid future problems with dimensions on bent parts, as a precaution,
I have tried to verify the dl measurement form the dimensions on the plans.
My success is intermittent.
For example, I can reach the specified dl of 765mm for the elevator skin by using
calculated values for the set backs and bend areas, rounded to the nearest
mm.
But for the Flap skin the same technique gives a result of 775mm, which is 5 mm
less than the dl shown on the plans. For the Aileron skins, the calculated value
is 7mm less than the plans.
So my question is: should I be concerned about this?
If the plan dl is wrong and I do the bending at the center of each calculated bend
area, I should end up with a little extra material on one of the end flanges,
which I can then trim to the specified dimensions. This should result in
a part with the right dimensions.
BUT if the plan dl is correct, then one or more of the plan dimensions is wrong.
How can I tell which it is? Should I be asking someone each time this comes
up? Obviously the issue is greater if the calculated dl is LONGER than the
plan dl, in which case I may not have enough material.
Please advise.
Jeff Kafka
601XL Plans: Rudder, Stabilizer done.
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Cutting Extrusions / Tools |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Carlson, Dale" <DCarlson@mail.dese.state.mo.us>
Folks,
I am building an 801 so am not familiar your requirement to rip these extrusions
but if it is a matter of trimming some amount from one leg of an extrusion,
I used a different process (than a band saw or other type of saw) to trim the
side skins for my fuselage to the exact same size (after clecoing the sides together).
Don't know why it wouldn't work to trim some off these extrusions...
I used a cheap electric wood plane. It doesn't take a lot off in a pass but really
makes a nice consistent cut. Several passes may get you down to where you
want to be. Fasten the extrusion to your table because those blades are turning
pretty fast. Safety glasses are a must because the chips really fly. The
aluminum is soft enough that I didn't see any damage to the blades. Made a
nice smooth cut.
Dale Carlson
CH-801
-----Original Message-----
From: Monty Graves [mailto:mgraves@usmo.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cutting Extrusions / Tools
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
1/8 inch thick alum 6061 angle can be ripped on a table saw fairly easily,
fine tooth carbide teeth blade, good alignment of the rip fence. SLOW
feed!!!!! Also need a zero clearance plate for the blade is helpful.
I have ripped a lot of alum extrusions. eye and ear protection are a MUST.
LOTS and LOTS of alum chips.
The band saw will do it with less noise, but the table saw will give you a
much more accurate cut.
SLOW feed.. Hold downs, and push sticks are a must, kick back is a metal
projectile.
Monty
At 04:07 PM 4/5/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello, all
>
>
>I'm ready to trim the 1.5" x 1.5" extrusions down to 1.5" x 1.25".
>
>I was thinking of renting a band saw to do this, but the local rental
store doesn't
>have any, and the closest one only has the industrial issue (7' tall), so
I'd have
>to rent a truck.
>Thus, my alternative is to acquire a band saw [pitty me.. ;o) ]
>Keeping in ming the primary goal of trimming 6 pieces of extrusion 1/8"
thick, each
>8' long, do builders have any recommendations to offer? "Gotchas" to avoid?
>
>I'm looking at a Canadian Tire band saw. To take a look, go to
>HTTP://www.canadiantire.ca
>then enter 0556726P in the search box.
>
>Thanks in advance for any input
>
>Carlos
>CH601 HD - tailfeathers done!
>
>Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
>
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Calculating DL's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, Jeff
As Michel Therrien noted recently, "dl" will vary depending on the bending brake
you
are using. When I bent the larger parts, I used a 8' bending brake for which the
given dl is does not quite work. It works fairly well for my home made brake.
Suggestion: make small samples and run tests before cutting the real thing.
Regards
Carlos
--- "Kafka, Jeff" <JKafka@trojanuv.com> wrote:
...
> BUT if the plan dl is correct, then one or more of the plan dimensions is wrong.
> How can I tell which it is? Should I be asking someone each time this comes
up?
> Obviously the issue is greater if the calculated dl is LONGER than the plan dl,
in
> which case I may not have enough material.
>
> Please advise.
>
>
> Jeff Kafka
> 601XL Plans: Rudder, Stabilizer done.
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Spar tip (CH601 HD) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Folks, I sent a note to ZAC regarding what I think is an error on the CH601 HD
plans
(4th edition).
As everyone is in Florida for Sun 'n Fun, I thought I'd post my note here and get
your feedback while I wait...
Thanks in advance for your thoughts
Carlos
--------------------Not to ZAC follows---------------------
I believe I found a small error in the (computer drawn) plans, 4th Edition 04/01.
I have plans for a CH601-HD, serial 6-3066.
If the spar tip 6V2-3 is cut as shown, the angle between the tip edge will not
be at
50 degrees with the vertical.
The problem seems to be the horizontal, bottom, measurement of 270 mm. If the
measure is applied at the bend line, as in the old, hand drafted plans, then the
edge will be at 50 degrees.
Could you please confirm the correct way of measuring 6V2-3: 270 mm at the bottom
edge or at the bend line?
Also, I'd like to confirm that the position of the lightening holes is measured
from
the edges of the (flat) part (as shown in 4th edition plans), and not from the
bend
line.
Finally, if I build wings with the baggage lockers, must I make lightening holes
in
the ribs at stations 130 and 650?
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Subaru Alternator Light ? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
That is interesting about the light. Mine has behaved the same way for 280
hours. I have to kick it up to around 2000 rpm and then it goes off. However
mine seems to put out lots of juice. I had a bearing replaced, but
alternator seems good. How do you account for this. I'm Curious. Don
Walker HDS Stratus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Subaru Alternator Light ?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
<ppolstra@mindspring.com>
>
> The light is on when you turn on the key, but goes out when you start the
> engine and the alternator starts producing current. It must be installed
or
> your alternator will fail, according to Stratus.
>
> I believe it works by looking for a voltage difference between the battery
> and the alternator. I could be wrong about this.
>
> I used to have to jump start the alternator by running up the RPM's past
2k
> or so, then the voltage would jump and the light would go out. However, I
> had my alternator rebuilt after it failed, and I no longer have this
> "feature". Now the light goes out immediately after the engine starts.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Honabach
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Subaru Alternator Light ?
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Anyone with a Subaru engine on their Zodiac know what the purpose of the
> alternator light that is included with Engine/FWF kit? If I understand
> the chicken scratch that was included from Stratus, this light should be
> on right before you start the engine and go off afterwards. If the light
> stays on, does that mean the alternator is toast, wired up wrong, or ???
> Unfortunately, the docs included from Stratus and from ZAC do not
> include any details to purpose of the light - just a wiring diagram and
> the fact that it should be off when the engine is started.
>
> Thanks!!!
> Don Honabach
> Tempe, AZ - 601HDS
>
>
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
> ---
>
>
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines in Zenair planes |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Doon47@aol.com
ROBERT - I long considered a jabiru 3300 for my 701 which I intend to put
on floats. The engine is beautiful and the torque numbers are impressive. I
even had a motor mount built for it to 701 specs (firewall slant). Then I
began talking with Danny at Skyshops (www.skyshops.org/ ) who convinced me
the liquid cooled rotax 912 would be much better because the 701's steep
angle of attack coupled with its low speed would provide insufficent airflow
to cool the six cylinder Jabiru 3300. This made a great deal of sence to me
and I bought the rotax from him ($1000.00 cheaper than ZAC).
If you decide to go with the 3300 I have a motor mount for sale.
CHIP MULDOON doon47@aol.com
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I built a 601 HDS from a kit to flying in 950 hours. I have extensive
workshop training but had never built an airplane before.
Next time it would be faster, maube 700 or so.
Note a lot depends on the quality you want. I have seen these things that
look like hey have been thrown together in 750 hours by first time builders.
Now there is probably nothing wrong with these A/C and I'm sure they fly
pefectly well.
But for me I wanted all rivets in a straight line and when the local A&P
showed up in my hangar and said "wow you did a beautiful job"...thats what I
wanted.
Of course Istill havent painted it in 3 years since it first flew...:)
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Murphy [mailto:michaelmurphy2562@yahoo.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Build time
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michael Murphy
--> <michaelmurphy2562@yahoo.com>
The ZAC site says that an XL can be built in about 400-600 hours. How
much time have you spent on your Zenith. Please indicate the model and
what options you have included. Thanks
---------------------------------
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Subaru Alternator Light ? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hey Don,
You need the light or the Alternator will fry itself...at least so I'm told.
The purpose of the light is to tell you the alt is working. If you did not
have one the first you might notice is low battery volts. A light is a much
better viaual indication, that's why you want an oil pressure light in
addition to the guage.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Honabach [mailto:don@pcperfect.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Subaru Alternator Light ?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Hey Guys,
Anyone with a Subaru engine on their Zodiac know what the purpose of the
alternator light that is included with Engine/FWF kit? If I understand the
chicken scratch that was included from Stratus, this light should be on
right before you start the engine and go off afterwards. If the light stays
on, does that mean the alternator is toast, wired up wrong, or ???
Unfortunately, the docs included from Stratus and from ZAC do not include
any details to purpose of the light - just a wiring diagram and the fact
that it should be off when the engine is started.
Thanks!!!
Don Honabach
Tempe, AZ - 601HDS
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
Message 10
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Calculating DL's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kafka, Jeff" <JKafka@trojanuv.com>
I dont see how samples will help me with this issue. The dl is always a calculated
distance based on formulae and K-factors, etc. Most of the time I can verify
the value in the plans. My question is about what happens when the math and
the plans disagree. Bending a sample will not tell me what the end dimensions
are supposed to be, and I am trying to avoid assumptions.
Jeff Kafka
601XL Plans: Rudder, Stabilizer done.
Do Not Archive
Message 11
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Calculating DL's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
Jeff:
It is going to take some experimentation on your part. That's the joy of
scratch-building. I have used small sample bends to make sure I had it
right. The other bit of advice I hear over and over is to leave a little
extra and trim as needed. I know this is not always possible, but it has
worked for me. I think the "dl" dimension is just for reference anyway and
the outside dimensions should rule when making parts.
One other bit of advice that has helped me. Look far ahead in the process
to decide what the part will be used for. For example, I made the
Stabilizer Rear Spar Attachment (6T2-3) and found that my bends made the
part a few mm too wide. After looking at where the part mates to the
airplane and looking at some photographs of other's planes, I realized that
many builders had to install shims because the drawing called for the part
to be too narrow - in this case the "dl" and the dimensions don't help much.
Since I haven't made the fuselage yet, I won't know for some time if the
part is perfect or not.
Lastly, I found that some parts should only be made after others are
assembled because the drawings aren't perfect. For example the elevator
cutout channel (6T6-3) for the trim tab. I made this part before assembling
the elevator, only to find out that it was too narrow - a fellow builder
also had this problem with a part that was supplied by Zenith. I had to
re-make the part to fit after the elevator was assembled.
I just finished the elevator and am starting on the stabilizer. It looks
like you just finished the stablizer and may be starting on the elevator.
Maybe we can exchange advice on the parts we are about to build. See my
website for some photos of my progress. (Address in my signature).
May all your rivet lines be straight,
Scott Laughlin
601XL Plans-builder
Omaha, Nebraska
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Kafka, Jeff" <JKafka@trojanuv.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Calculating DL's
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kafka, Jeff" <JKafka@trojanuv.com>
I dont see how samples will help me with this issue. The dl is always a
calculated distance based on formulae and K-factors, etc. Most of the time I
can verify the value in the plans. My question is about what happens when
the math and the plans disagree. Bending a sample will not tell me what the
end dimensions are supposed to be, and I am trying to avoid assumptions.
Jeff Kafka
601XL Plans: Rudder, Stabilizer done.
Do Not Archive
Message 12
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Zodie Rockets at SnF |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
When we left Lakeland late Friday morning there were eight 601s in attendance.
Nick said that number was the highest he can remember. I know the Canadians
get a bunch together at their fly-ins but this was the largest number I had seen
in one place, topping OSH by at least three.
In row 4 of the Homebuilt Area were:
Jim and Bonnie Olson from FL. Their HDS/912 in "Wanna Bee Warbird" scheme is a
treat to see and make sure you take a long look at Jim's wonderful constructions
photos if you ever meet up with them.
Brent Battles from NC. I didn't get to see Brent and really wanted to share my
admiration for his fine a/c and the cross USA trip he took. If you haven't read
his recount of the journey you are in for a treat. HD/912.
George Fetzer from FL in a HDS/Stratus. George's a/c is a beautiful example of
the care and dedication that builders put into their work. His cowling is a
work of art and he must have hours and hours in it - neat, really neat green flake
paint.
John Carpenter from TX in a HDS-TD/Soob with the radiator inside. John said he
was able to mount it there because without the nosewheel the space was available.
So far the temps are in range. He was having a blast flying it and said
all the other things could wait a while! This is a sentiment shared by many
flying builders. I don't think John is on our list - most of the builders who
said they were working on Zodiacs were not on our list either.
Ken Lennox of MD in a HDS-TD with 0-200 power and GGP's canopy modification. I
keep kidding Ken that his canopy opens so slowly and majestically that he should
have a recording of Darth Vader's march playing when it does. Ken flew down
the coast, something Bill and I didn't quite have the nerve to do when we flight
planned.
Randy Hart of GA had the only XL/912 there. Piloted by Craig Heiss the a/c was
for sale.
Bill Morelli of VT. I have been seeing pictures of Bill's creation for years now,
and stealing all his good ideas for just as long. His HDS/Stratus drew crowds
of people all the time, but especially when he popped the hood. I flew wing
with Bill from PA down, and though wx held us back, flying with him as a flight
companion made the trip all the more enjoyable.
Sandy and I brought our HDS/3300 to her first fly-in; quite a bit bigger than what
we had anticipated as 22Tango's first show.
Seb said there were some 701s in attendance but that most like to be out in the
ultralight area. Due to time limitations I didn't get out there.
OSH anyone?
Regards Jeff
Message 13
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: ZAC Lycoming engine mount / magneto |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
At 08:53 AM 4/6/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
>
>I bought ZAC's engine mount for my CH801/Lycoming O-320. It fits the engine
> Is there a smaller Bendix os Slick
>magneto I can substitute. I am considering going to one of the electronic
>systems for the left mag.
Hey Jim,
I am using the Lightspeed CDI, but got the flywheel pickup option, so there
isn't even a pickup unit where one of the mags go. I can send pics of the
cover plate if you want. If you get his dual option, you would have
nothing where the mags normally go.
Gary Liming
Message 14
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | ch 701 pitot tube route |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
hey all you 701 builders, it looks like I run a 1/4" inch line from the
pitot tube down the length of the wing via the 1/4" holes in the nose
ribs(4th ed. plans). But where is the best place to exit the wing and bring
it into the cabin? Route it thru the hole in the root nose rib? Is it o.k.
to drill a hole thru the spar root doubler and exit thru the root rear rib?
Phil Day
scratch-buildin' in Ma.
Message 15
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Band Saw and Blades |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
Carlos,
I did the same thing as Eric, I bought the 9" Delta tabletop bandsaw and a
Delta
tabletop drill press for $99 each at woodworkers warehouse back in November.
The bandsaw came with a 6 TPI ( teeth per inch) blade which is good for wood
so I bought a delta 14 TPI blade at Sears. It worked OK for standard L angle
but on thicker stuff the blade flexed too much and the cut wandered off to
either side and you had to push and flex that blade alot. It finally broke. I
read in a Tony Bingilis book that 24 TPI is needed. Well you cannot find a 24
TPI stock blade at 59 1/2" for the delta. I found out about Suffolk Machinery
from a friend and I ordered 3 24TPI 1/2 " blades custom cut to 59 1/2
". They are also Timberwolf blades. 3 blades delivered to my house cost
$38.77 and took 6 days to arrive.
The blade cuts everything like butter. It is truly amazing what a difference
that blade makes, the thing works great.
Order blades: Suffolk Machinery 631-289-7153 Patchogue, NY
Blades from : Timber Wolf Band Saw Blades 1-800-234-7297 Brockway, PA
Brian Unruh
Long Island, NY
<A HREF="http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/bunruh/">http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/bunruh/
From: "Eric Tauch" <erictauch@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cutting Extrusions / Tools
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eric Tauch" <erictauch@attbi.com>
I have been through a number of tools/bandsaws, and heres my summary.
I originally got one of the vertical/horizontal bandsaws for "more
power" (per newsgroup recommendations and dejanews ). These units
are not for doing vertical sawing and are good for cutting pipe/bar
stock and thats about it. Then I picked up a Ryobi 9" table top
bandsaw, and eventually took it back. Very plasticky and vibrations.
I finally got a Delta 9" benchtop bandsaw and love it. I did have
to get a set of blades mail order from suffolk machinery (timberwolf
blades). The US blades make a big difference. This saw is a
fantastic buy for 99.00 and cuts through aluminum like a hot knife
thru butter. I got a very fine blade for the AL cutting, and dress
the cut up on the 3M scotchbrite wheel on my grinder. I put the bandsaw
at maybe number 3 on my favorite "non-essential" tool list, just behind
the scotchbite pad wheel/grinder, and the 1"x42"belt sander. It also
comes in handy for cutting wood (different blade), and other cutting.
Eric Tauch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Carlos Sa
Subject: Zenith-List: Cutting Extrusions / Tools
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, all
I'm ready to trim the 1.5" x 1.5" extrusions down to 1.5" x 1.25".
I was thinking of renting a band saw to do this, but the local rental store
doesn't
have any, and the closest one only has the industrial issue (7' tall), so
I'd have
to rent a truck.
Thus, my alternative is to acquire a band saw [pitty me.. ;o) ]
Keeping in ming the primary goal of trimming 6 pieces of extrusion 1/8"
thick, each
8' long, do builders have any recommendations to offer? "Gotchas" to avoid?
I'm looking at a Canadian Tire band saw. To take a look, go to
HTTP://www.canadiantire.ca
then enter 0556726P in the search box.
Thanks in advance for any input
Carlos
CH601 HD - tailfeathers done!
Message 16
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | For Sale - HDS Wing Locker Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jake Reyna" <jake@lockhart-tx.com>
We seem to have an extra set of fuel tanks, actually we purchased the kit
from another builder and decided to upgrade to leading edge tanks. The wing
tanks were never installed.
WING TANKS & FUEL SYSTEM KIT (PAIR)
Seven U.S. Gallons each, mounted inside the wing baggage locker to
supplement the main header tank. Kit includes electric pump and fuel lines
and connectors.
Get them from Zenith for $695 or we'll take $500 obo.
Jake
jake@lockhart-tx.com
Message 17
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Subaru Alternator Light ? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
That is interesting about the light. Mine has behaved the same way for 280
hours. I have to kick it up to around 2000 rpm and then it goes off. However
mine seems to put out lots of juice. I had a bearing replaced, but
alternator seems good. How do you account for this.
When I had my alternator rebuilt they replaced the voltage regulator and
rectifier circuit. The one they installed didn't have this "feature" where
you had to kick the rpm's up to get it to work.
---
Message 18
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Zodie Rockets at SnF |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
I was hoping to make it, but this weekend I couldn't make it down and back
VFR from GA. Maybe OSH, or next year.
---
Message 19
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Band Saw and Blades |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
One thing with band saws. It is better to have the blade too tight than
loose. Loose breaks blades rather quickly.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <RURUNY@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Band Saw and Blades
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
>
> Carlos,
> I did the same thing as Eric, I bought the 9" Delta tabletop bandsaw and a
> Delta
> tabletop drill press for $99 each at woodworkers warehouse back in
November.
> The bandsaw came with a 6 TPI ( teeth per inch) blade which is good for
wood
> so I bought a delta 14 TPI blade at Sears. It worked OK for standard L
angle
> but on thicker stuff the blade flexed too much and the cut wandered off to
> either side and you had to push and flex that blade alot. It finally
broke. I
> read in a Tony Bingilis book that 24 TPI is needed. Well you cannot find a
24
> TPI stock blade at 59 1/2" for the delta. I found out about Suffolk
Machinery
> from a friend and I ordered 3 24TPI 1/2 " blades custom cut to 59
1/2
> ". They are also Timberwolf blades. 3 blades delivered to my house cost
> $38.77 and took 6 days to arrive.
> The blade cuts everything like butter. It is truly amazing what a
difference
> that blade makes, the thing works great.
> Order blades: Suffolk Machinery 631-289-7153 Patchogue, NY
> Blades from : Timber Wolf Band Saw Blades 1-800-234-7297 Brockway, PA
>
> Brian Unruh
> Long Island, NY
> <A
HREF="http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/bunruh/">http://www.zenitha
ir.com/bldrlist/profiles/bunruh/
>
>
> From: "Eric Tauch" <erictauch@attbi.com>
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cutting Extrusions / Tools
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eric Tauch" <erictauch@attbi.com>
>
> I have been through a number of tools/bandsaws, and heres my summary.
>
> I originally got one of the vertical/horizontal bandsaws for "more
> power" (per newsgroup recommendations and dejanews ). These units
> are not for doing vertical sawing and are good for cutting pipe/bar
> stock and thats about it. Then I picked up a Ryobi 9" table top
> bandsaw, and eventually took it back. Very plasticky and vibrations.
> I finally got a Delta 9" benchtop bandsaw and love it. I did have
> to get a set of blades mail order from suffolk machinery (timberwolf
> blades). The US blades make a big difference. This saw is a
> fantastic buy for 99.00 and cuts through aluminum like a hot knife
> thru butter. I got a very fine blade for the AL cutting, and dress
> the cut up on the 3M scotchbrite wheel on my grinder. I put the bandsaw
> at maybe number 3 on my favorite "non-essential" tool list, just behind
> the scotchbite pad wheel/grinder, and the 1"x42"belt sander. It also
> comes in handy for cutting wood (different blade), and other cutting.
>
> Eric Tauch
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Carlos Sa
> Subject: Zenith-List: Cutting Extrusions / Tools
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I'm ready to trim the 1.5" x 1.5" extrusions down to 1.5" x 1.25".
>
> I was thinking of renting a band saw to do this, but the local rental
store
> doesn't
> have any, and the closest one only has the industrial issue (7' tall), so
> I'd have
> to rent a truck.
> Thus, my alternative is to acquire a band saw [pitty me.. ;o) ]
> Keeping in ming the primary goal of trimming 6 pieces of extrusion 1/8"
> thick, each
> 8' long, do builders have any recommendations to offer? "Gotchas" to
avoid?
>
> I'm looking at a Canadian Tire band saw. To take a look, go to
> HTTP://www.canadiantire.ca
> then enter 0556726P in the search box.
>
> Thanks in advance for any input
>
> Carlos
> CH601 HD - tailfeathers done!
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|