Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: Angle of attack indicators (J Davis)
2. 05:37 AM - Re: Pilot holes Ouchie (Al Etherington)
3. 07:05 AM - Bernoulli Smernoulli! (Tony Bonsell)
4. 07:12 AM - Re: Fuel tank sealant (caspainhower@aep.com)
5. 07:33 AM - 701 down (H. Robert Schoenberger)
6. 08:27 AM - Re: Any advice? (Gary Gower)
7. 08:39 AM - Re: Fuel tank sealant (Ed Kramer)
8. 08:42 AM - Re: 701 down (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
9. 08:56 AM - Re: Bernoulli Smernoulli! (Don Honabach)
10. 09:34 AM - Re: Any advice? (Bill Howerton)
11. 11:28 AM - Re: Bernoulli Smernoulli! (Randall Thomure)
12. 12:29 PM - Re: Any advice? (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
13. 01:10 PM - Re: Any advice? (Lee Thomas)
14. 01:51 PM - Re: Any advice? (Larry McFarland)
15. 05:19 PM - Re: Any advice? (Don Honabach)
16. 06:18 PM - Rubber Motor Mount Question (WAYNE BEATTIE)
17. 06:25 PM - Re: Any advice? Right angle Air Drill (Gary Gower)
18. 06:41 PM - Re: Any advice? (Bill Howerton)
19. 06:42 PM - Re: Any advice? (David Tellet)
20. 07:08 PM - More on getting ready to get going... (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
21. 08:34 PM - Re: Any advice? (Hal Rozema)
22. 09:14 PM - Re: Any advice? (Don Honabach)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Angle of attack indicators |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: J Davis <jd@lri.sjhc.london.on.ca>
First, I would like to thank all the people who have taken time out
of their lives to respond to me regarding my recent incident. Its
amazing how much such a 'support group' can do towards helping to
heal the trauma experienced after bending your airplane (let alone
bending your, or someone else's, body, which thankfully was not the
case here). Thanks.
The AOA indicator I use is called a 'Bacon Saver', and is simply a
shaft with a freely pivoting vane at the end. It extends forward of
the leading edge much like a pitot tube, but close enough to the
cabin that it is visible in your peripheral vision. It has a scale
which you calibrate to indicate where your plane stalls. You can
barely see it on the pilot's side at
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/jd/
and up close at http://www.oneillairplane.com/baconsaver.htm
Simple, inexpensive, indispensable. There are several other fancier
models available with LEDs in your panel to indicate AOA:
http://www.angle-of-attack.com/Default.htm
I have pretty much decided to install the 'LRI' in the Sonex I'm
currently building: http://www.liftreserve.com/
Some theory:
http://www.monmouth.com/~jsd/how/htm/aoa.html
Thanks again.
J. (just call me 'Crash') Davis
On Wed, 7 May 2003, Gary Gower wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> I dont have one installed in my plane (or sell them :-) they are
> several types, both electronic and mechanical (wind).
>
> Here is a page or two about them, so you can read the theory.
>
> Prices are from expensive all the way down to homemade. There is even
> one homemade with a yarn string that works great and is made with a pvc
> tube and installed in the wing strut...
>
> This is one page, there is another one with better explanation, I will
> post it when I find it in my bookmarks....
>
> http://www.liftreserve.com/
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Saludos
> Gary Gower
> 701 912S
> Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico.
>
>
> --- RoyN9869L@aol.com wrote:
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: RoyN9869L@aol.com
> >
> > Hey folks, I'm just catching up on my mail and read all ref the "701
> > Down"
> > clips but for a newbie building a CH-701 what's with this Angle of
> > Attack
> > thing, its not listed in my plans or assembly manual. Could someone
> > enlighten
> > me on the subject? If this is an add on piece of equipment and in
> > the
> > interest of safety I want one so where do I get one? Thanks. I guess
> > this
> > aircraft has earned its title "SKY JEEP" Cheers
> >
> > Roger Roy
> >
--
Regards, J.
flying: Zenair STOL CH701/582 C-IGGY , > 240 hrs. and holding...
building: Sonex #325, engine probably Jabiru 3300/6/120hp
| J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | UNIX consultant |
| SysMgr, research programmer | email: jd@uwo.ca |
| Lawson Health Research Inst.| voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
| London, Ontario | fax: (519) 646 6385 |
| Canada | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
If the shoe fits......buy it in every color.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Pilot holes Ouchie |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Al Etherington" <aletherington@rogers.com>
Mark:=0D
=0D
Geez, as soon as I leave you alone, look what happens! Really though, I'm
sorry to hear about your little escapade. The worst is the fact that
everyone seems to think it's inevitable.=0D
Not looking forward to it.=0D
=0D
Al =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: zenith-list@matronics.com=0D
Subject: Zenith-List: Pilot holes Ouchie=0D
=0D
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>=0D
=0D
Well it finally happened ! I have alot of the fuselage done, tail feathers=0D
done, flaps done and presently working on the ailerons and nose ribs.=0D
Tonight I had extra time so I went out to the garage to work on the aileron.=0D
I have all the preholes drilled and while installing the ribs bam it finally=0D
happened. I lined up the rib line and drilled through the predrilled holes=0D
into the rib then into my finger !! I almost had this fantasy of making it=0D
through without a hole in my finger. Oh well at least it was just a #40 bit=0D
:-)=0D
=0D
Mark Townsend=0D
Plans building=0D
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
Message 3
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Subject: | Bernoulli Smernoulli! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tony Bonsell <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
Hi Guys
I have been suspicious of the bernoulli theory ever since ground school, and
I argue against it all the time. Now I have fresh ammunition:
http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift.htm
701: 1.5 wings done.
******************************************************
Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF
Luxuria + Apparatus Design Communications
535 Cragg Road, RR #3
Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
Voice: 905.852.3848 Fax: 905.852.0652
http://www.luxuria.com
******************************************************
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sealant |
05/08/2003 10:11:47 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
Question is: Why not use the old standby Permatex
GAsket Sealant #1 or #2 (also made by Loctite).
They're resistant to gasoline and are on the shelf.
Anybody had any good/bad experience with them.
Permatex Superblue RTV #2 gasket sealer is an excellent thread sealant for
gas, oil, or any petroleum product. I work in an industrial environment
and we use it exclusively. You are right that many thread sealants don't
hold up to gasoline.
Craig S.
601 XL Tails done, wings started.
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
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contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
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Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "H. Robert Schoenberger" <HRS4@prodigy.net>
J. Davis wrote . . .
--> Zenith-List message posted by: J Davis <jd@lri.sjhc.london.on.ca>
Greetings again...
Just wanted to set down the facts regarding my forced landing on
Saturday, maybe get some carthesis for a badly bruised ego ;')
J. . . . . you're beating yourself up too much. Remember, all of us can say, "there
for the grace of God go I". I think your actions under the circumstances
were perfect.
All the truly great pilots had incidents. The Wright Brothers made some 700+ flights
one summer in their glider. It would crack up, and they would drag the
pieces back to their Kitty Hawk shed and put it back together. The next day
they would fly another battery of test flights . Thank goodness for that. If
we ever meet, I'll fly with you. Robert Schoenberger Do not archive.
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Bill,
About the *.pdf manuals online, in our case (701) the manual is
constantly under developement so with the kit we recieved the manual
about 70% complete, we have about a year building and we have every
mayor part complete and we are assembling everything together... lucky
is that the updating speed from ZAC was almost at our building pace.
I bought an extra 3 ring binder and print every new section with the
black and white option in the printer.
What I will advice you to do, is to check in the computer all the
updates and see witch of them is missing in you manual, and print them.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S
Guadalajara, Jalisco Mexico.
--- Bill Howerton <Bill@Howerton.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton"
> <Bill@Howerton.com>
>
> I am an XL builder who is waiting to start building. I received my
> construction manuals and my blueprints when I ordered my kits, but
> because
> of the long backlog of people ordering their kits, I have to wait
> almost 2
> months for my kits to arrive. I have been using this time to study
> the
> plans, buy tools (gotta love any excuse that allows me to buy more
> tools),
> to get my work area in my garage ready, and build my worktable.
>
> So now the question arises, is there any advice you older builders
> can
> offer? I guess what I'm asking is this: Please complete the
> following
> sentence: If I had it to do all over again, I would
> _______________________________; and I'm glad I did
> ________________________.
>
> Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated by myself and
> others
> I'm sure.
>
> Finally, I noticed that there are many detailed color manuals in .pdf
> format
> in the builders' pages on the ZAC web site. These photos and their
> associated details are not included in the photocopied manuals that I
> received with my blueprints. The question is this: Are they
> included with
> the kits? I am considering printing them all up, but don't wan't to
> waste
> color ink if I'm going to get them anyway.
>
> Aan again, Thanks for any advice you can offer.
> Bill in Colorado Springs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sealant |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed Kramer" <edair701@adelphia.net>
Rico,
I don't know what everybody else is using on the fuel tank fittings.
What the IA at our local airport told me to use on the fuel fittings for my
701 is called Fuelube, it's the consistency on Vaseline. Using sealers would
make it difficult to remove the fittings if necessary. It's
available at AC Spruce, P/N 09-25300, page 318 of the ACS catalog.
Ed Kramer
West Seneca, NY
CH 701: rudder & left wing completed, almost finished with right wing.
edair701@adelphia.net
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm getting ready to seal up the XL wing fuel tanks
> (hopefully for the last time), and am wondering what
> to use to seal the threads on the brass fittings.
> I'm not excited about using teflon tape or
> teflon-based liquid (see earlier posts), and I'd
> rather not have to buy more speciality items from the
> catalog.
>
> Question is: Why not use the old standby Permatex
> GAsket Sealant #1 or #2 (also made by Loctite).
> They're resistant to gasoline and are on the shelf.
> Anybody had any good/bad experience with them.
>
> Thanks for your experience.
> --Rico
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I crashed a C152 on landing shortly after I got my ticket 4 years back. Of
course the young lady px who was definatly "the one" (turned out she wasn't
didn't have the stomach for crashing airplanes) was riding with me.
One of the most humbling experiences of my life. And yes it has made me a
MUCH better pilot!
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: H. Robert Schoenberger [mailto:HRS4@prodigy.net]
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 down
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "H. Robert Schoenberger"
--> <HRS4@prodigy.net>
J. Davis wrote . . .
--> Zenith-List message posted by: J Davis <jd@lri.sjhc.london.on.ca>
Greetings again...
Just wanted to set down the facts regarding my forced landing on Saturday,
maybe get some carthesis for a badly bruised ego ;')
Message 9
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Subject: | Bernoulli Smernoulli! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Tony,
Thanks for the post - I've had similar suspicious. Definitely a good
read.
Regards,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Bonsell [mailto:tbonsell@luxuria.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Bernoulli Smernoulli!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tony Bonsell <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
Hi Guys
I have been suspicious of the bernoulli theory ever since ground school,
and I argue against it all the time. Now I have fresh ammunition:
http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift.htm
701: 1.5 wings done.
******************************************************
Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF
Luxuria + Apparatus Design Communications
535 Cragg Road, RR #3
Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
Voice: 905.852.3848 Fax: 905.852.0652
http://www.luxuria.com
******************************************************
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
thanks! good advice -- of all the responses to this question, this is the
one that sounds like the most sense
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gower" <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Any advice?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
>
> Bill,
>
> About the *.pdf manuals online, in our case (701) the manual is
> constantly under developement so with the kit we recieved the manual
> about 70% complete, we have about a year building and we have every
> mayor part complete and we are assembling everything together... lucky
> is that the updating speed from ZAC was almost at our building pace.
>
> I bought an extra 3 ring binder and print every new section with the
> black and white option in the printer.
>
> What I will advice you to do, is to check in the computer all the
> updates and see witch of them is missing in you manual, and print them.
>
> Saludos
> Gary Gower
> 701 912S
> Guadalajara, Jalisco Mexico.
>
> --- Bill Howerton <Bill@Howerton.com> wrote:
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton"
> > <Bill@Howerton.com>
> >
> > I am an XL builder who is waiting to start building. I received my
> > construction manuals and my blueprints when I ordered my kits, but
> > because
> > of the long backlog of people ordering their kits, I have to wait
> > almost 2
> > months for my kits to arrive. I have been using this time to study
> > the
> > plans, buy tools (gotta love any excuse that allows me to buy more
> > tools),
> > to get my work area in my garage ready, and build my worktable.
> >
> > So now the question arises, is there any advice you older builders
> > can
> > offer? I guess what I'm asking is this: Please complete the
> > following
> > sentence: If I had it to do all over again, I would
> > _______________________________; and I'm glad I did
> > ________________________.
> >
> > Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated by myself and
> > others
> > I'm sure.
> >
> > Finally, I noticed that there are many detailed color manuals in .pdf
> > format
> > in the builders' pages on the ZAC web site. These photos and their
> > associated details are not included in the photocopied manuals that I
> > received with my blueprints. The question is this: Are they
> > included with
> > the kits? I am considering printing them all up, but don't wan't to
> > waste
> > color ink if I'm going to get them anyway.
> >
> > Aan again, Thanks for any advice you can offer.
> > Bill in Colorado Springs
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Bernoulli Smernoulli! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randall Thomure" <rthomure@ameritech.net>
Thanks for the article reference.
I wonder if I can get a refund for the ground school when they incorrectly
explaining the Bernoulli principle as it applies to airplanes?
Randall Thomure
601 XL
Rudder done
Just got the box with the rest of the tail.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Bonsell
Subject: Zenith-List: Bernoulli Smernoulli!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tony Bonsell <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
Hi Guys
I have been suspicious of the bernoulli theory ever since ground school, and
I argue against it all the time. Now I have fresh ammunition:
http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift.htm
701: 1.5 wings done.
******************************************************
Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF
Luxuria + Apparatus Design Communications
535 Cragg Road, RR #3
Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
Voice: 905.852.3848 Fax: 905.852.0652
http://www.luxuria.com
******************************************************
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
Bill,
The Getting Ready part of building can be the fun part. It gets more serious
later on.
About work tables. The C H designs want to be made on a flat & straight work
table. Level too.
I struggled with finding straight lumber to support/define the work surface.
Only to find that there is no such thing. Not practically anyway. Also heavy.
A 17 foot ladder, Home Depot, Werner medium duty, fits the bill. It comes in
two 10 foot sections. Both have the same rail width, are straight & strong.
Remove the end fittings.
lay the two ladder sections on the top surface, 3/4 plywood, good stuff from
H D, space them to leave a 3 in over hang, to clamp to,,, and screw the
rails to the plywood. 3/4 in pan head, Phillips head, sheet metal screws
work. Pre drill clearance holes through the rails, ~ 15 in spacing. If you
like counter sunk head bolts, use em.
Add two boards, ~ 10 to 12 in wide, across the ladder rails near each end, to
form a kind of box beam. Turn it flat side up, place it on two folding leg
tables, 2 X 4 foot size. Put dowels in the leg's, center drill for bolts &
threaded inserts, 5/16,,,, washers & nuts. Adjust bolt's to level the work
table surface.
My table is 10 1/2 feet long, and fit's in the basement work space. It is
easy to move, c clamp it to the tables. For a longer table, just select the
right length ladder.
Working well so far, all tail surfaces done, right wing in work.
There was a sketch of this table method in the a recent Zenair News Letter.
Have fun. PS,, use a new ladder, old ones are bent.
Jerry, CH 701 SP
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Lee Thomas <cltvet@mail.ocis.net>
At 03:27 PM 08/05/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
>Can also use industrial grade metal 2x4 that you can buy in 10 ft
>length.Then 2x4 cross pieces,then top and good base.
Lee
>Bill,
>The Getting Ready part of building can be the fun part. It gets more serious
>later on.
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Any advice?
I have been using this time to study the
> plans, buy tools (gotta love any excuse that allows me to buy more tools),
> to get my work area in my garage ready, and build my worktable.
>
> So now the question arises, is there any advice you older builders can
> offer? I guess what I'm asking is this: Please complete the following
> sentence: If I had it to do all over again, I would
> _______________________________; and I'm glad I did
> ________________________.
>
> Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated by myself and others
> I'm sure.
> Aan again, Thanks for any advice you can offer.
> Bill in Colorado Springs
>
Bill,
Go to Lowes and buy a sheet of 3/4" x 48" x 9-ft white coated pressed board
for you're table.
Use 2x4s for a screw construct frame set inside 4" all round. Construct legs
of welded angle or tube.
The surface will lend well to inking patterns and illuminate your
constructions progress a great deal.
And by all means, put the worktable on lockable casters. 2-1/2" do fine.
If you've not yet
purchased a battery powered drill yet, get at least a 14.4 volt variable
with two batteries.
My Black and Decker batteries lasted about 4 years and 9000 holes until they
were replaced
this year. This was the tool I depended upon most so far.
Larry C. McFarland 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Bill,
There are only three things that I wish I had before the starting this
project:
1 - A Small Right Angle Air Drill. This tool has come in so handy that I
can't even imagine trying to build the plane without it, and in my
opinion some areas can't be built properly without it. The distance
between the drill's head and the center of the drill is about 6 to 8mm
which allows you to drill those final holes in tight spaces plus drill
in-between ribs and the like where a normal drill would never fit. Only
downside is the cost which runs around $250 to $500 depending on brand,
etc.
2 - Buy more clecoes and then buy some more and then buy some more...
3 - Buy some clamps and then buy some more and then some more...
We have a running joke in our house. Whenever a TV show displays a clamp
I always get a smart comment like, 'I bet you don't have that one'. So
far the reply is, actually I/we do (smile).
Outside of that, if you are concerned about having pretty finished
extruded pieces, I sanding machine and scotch bright wheel are nice and
will prevent excellent results.
Regards,
Don Honabach
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry McFarland [mailto:larrymc@qconline.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Any advice?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland"
--> <larrymc@qconline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Any advice?
I have been using this time to study the
> plans, buy tools (gotta love any excuse that allows me to buy more
> tools), to get my work area in my garage ready, and build my
> worktable.
>
> So now the question arises, is there any advice you older builders can
> offer? I guess what I'm asking is this: Please complete the
> following
> sentence: If I had it to do all over again, I would
> _______________________________; and I'm glad I did
> ________________________.
>
> Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated by myself and
> others I'm sure. Aan again, Thanks for any advice you can offer.
> Bill in Colorado Springs
>
Bill,
Go to Lowes and buy a sheet of 3/4" x 48" x 9-ft white coated pressed
board for you're table. Use 2x4s for a screw construct frame set inside
4" all round. Construct legs of welded angle or tube. The surface will
lend well to inking patterns and illuminate your constructions progress
a great deal. And by all means, put the worktable on lockable casters.
2-1/2" do fine. If you've not yet purchased a battery powered drill yet,
get at least a 14.4 volt variable with two batteries. My Black and
Decker batteries lasted about 4 years and 9000 holes until they were
replaced this year. This was the tool I depended upon most so far.
Larry C. McFarland 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Rubber Motor Mount Question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: WAYNE BEATTIE <waynebeattie@optonline.net>
I was wondering how one would determine when the rubber bushings on the motor mounting
should be replaced?
Is there an age limit or just an inspection?
Do they harden with age or soften?
Anyone with any experience with this?
Would one be able to tell by the way the engine feels when running that they are
too soft/hard?
I read in an ultralight website that it recommended that they be changed yearly.
I assume that is for the severe environment that an ultralight may be subjected
to.
Any advice?
Wayne N601WB
Message 17
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Subject: | Any advice? Right angle Air Drill |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
My Dad bought one used/rebuilt in S&F (dont know how much he paid for
it) Fly Market and Sure, is one of the most important special tools in
building.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Don Honabach <don@pcperfect.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> Bill,
>
> There are only three things that I wish I had before the starting
> this
> project:
>
> 1 - A Small Right Angle Air Drill. This tool has come in so handy
> that I
> can't even imagine trying to build the plane without it, and in my
> opinion some areas can't be built properly without it. The distance
> between the drill's head and the center of the drill is about 6 to
> 8mm
> which allows you to drill those final holes in tight spaces plus
> drill
> in-between ribs and the like where a normal drill would never fit.
> Only
> downside is the cost which runs around $250 to $500 depending on
> brand,
> etc.
>
> 2 - Buy more clecoes and then buy some more and then buy some more...
>
> 3 - Buy some clamps and then buy some more and then some more...
>
> We have a running joke in our house. Whenever a TV show displays a
> clamp
> I always get a smart comment like, 'I bet you don't have that one'.
> So
> far the reply is, actually I/we do (smile).
>
> Outside of that, if you are concerned about having pretty finished
> extruded pieces, I sanding machine and scotch bright wheel are nice
> and
> will prevent excellent results.
>
> Regards,
> Don Honabach
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Wow, I had no idea that my question would illicit such an overwhelmingly
positive response! You guys are great! I can see that you guys have a real
passion for this.
Thanks!!!!
Bill
Message 19
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Tellet <telletdl@erols.com>
Bill,
- Ditto on clamps and clecos - can never have too many
- If you choose portable drill over air, try to find one with
reasonable high speed (I use a dewalt that goes to about 1500 rpm)
- Drill #40 holes first and then go back to drill final size - much
easier and neater
- Right angle drill is very helpful - I got an attachment for the
electric drill from Aircraft Spruce for about $40 - works okay as long
as you're not using it all day
- Study the plans and read forward in the manuals. Then study them
some more.
- Band saw with metal blade and a drill press - makes things so much
easier.
- Spend time getting your table as flat and level as possible - I
didn't and it is a pain to keep things straight.
- If things start to be more frustrating than fun, do something else
and come back to it later or the next day - your subconscious will have
figured it out by then.
Most importantly, have fun.
David Tellet, 601HD, ~50% done
Message 20
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Subject: | More on getting ready to get going... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
Don't think anybody mentioned any particulars on the plywood worktable top.
There is a brand (or a generic buzzword) of plywood flooring called
"SturdiFloor" sold at most lumber yards. This stuff is standard 4 feet by 8
feet (unfortunate U.S. measurements) and is ONE & ONE-EIGHTH inchs thick. I
found it to be much less expensive than standard plywood. It is "tongue &
groove" and is intended as flooring in the above-ground levels of homes,
apartments etc. Simply rip the tongue off one side, rip the groove off the
other and you will have an extremely stiff (read that FLAT) table top. Just
my two cents worth. Avoid hernias, get help lifting sturdifloor.
Zed Smith
701/R912 on the gear.
do not archive
Message 21
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
Tools? I got the ones that Zenith will furnish for a good price with my 701
kit, plus my closet full of mostly common hand tools accumulated in 50 years
of household repairs, and found the two most useful all round tools to be a
Dremel tool (purchased in 1979 and still going strong) and a big 5 gallon
wet/dry shop vac purchase about 5 years ago. No drill presses, sanders,
press brakes or bandsaws needed. Only found my little hobby vise about 3
weeks ago, I've been hand holding or clamping everything before. Build on
two Home Depot Plastic folding tables.
Started January 2002, ready to install Jabiru 3300 and instrument panel this
month. The closer your project is to your bedroom and the refrigerator the
quicker you'll finish. Current 800 hr pilot 73 yo architectural designer.
Hal Rozema
theplanefolks.net
Message 22
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Correction ...
>> Outside of that, if you are concerned about having pretty finished
extruded pieces, I sanding machine and scotch bright wheel are nice and
will prevent excellent results.
Just in case some one thinks I'm crazy, I meant, 'will produce excellent
results' and not 'prevent'. (arrghhh).
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Honabach
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Any advice?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Bill,
There are only three things that I wish I had before the starting this
project:
1 - A Small Right Angle Air Drill. This tool has come in so handy that I
can't even imagine trying to build the plane without it, and in my
opinion some areas can't be built properly without it. The distance
between the drill's head and the center of the drill is about 6 to 8mm
which allows you to drill those final holes in tight spaces plus drill
in-between ribs and the like where a normal drill would never fit. Only
downside is the cost which runs around $250 to $500 depending on brand,
etc.
2 - Buy more clecoes and then buy some more and then buy some more...
3 - Buy some clamps and then buy some more and then some more...
We have a running joke in our house. Whenever a TV show displays a clamp
I always get a smart comment like, 'I bet you don't have that one'. So
far the reply is, actually I/we do (smile).
Outside of that, if you are concerned about having pretty finished
extruded pieces, I sanding machine and scotch bright wheel are nice and
will prevent excellent results.
Regards,
Don Honabach
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry McFarland [mailto:larrymc@qconline.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Any advice?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland"
--> <larrymc@qconline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Any advice?
I have been using this time to study the
> plans, buy tools (gotta love any excuse that allows me to buy more
> tools), to get my work area in my garage ready, and build my
> worktable.
>
> So now the question arises, is there any advice you older builders can
> offer? I guess what I'm asking is this: Please complete the
> following
> sentence: If I had it to do all over again, I would
> _______________________________; and I'm glad I did
> ________________________.
>
> Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated by myself and
> others I'm sure. Aan again, Thanks for any advice you can offer.
> Bill in Colorado Springs
>
Bill,
Go to Lowes and buy a sheet of 3/4" x 48" x 9-ft white coated pressed
board for you're table. Use 2x4s for a screw construct frame set inside
4" all round. Construct legs of welded angle or tube. The surface will
lend well to inking patterns and illuminate your constructions progress
a great deal. And by all means, put the worktable on lockable casters.
2-1/2" do fine. If you've not yet purchased a battery powered drill yet,
get at least a 14.4 volt variable with two batteries. My Black and
Decker batteries lasted about 4 years and 9000 holes until they were
replaced this year. This was the tool I depended upon most so far.
Larry C. McFarland 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
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