Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Re: Microair radio (barry mayne)
2. 04:18 AM - Re: Any advice? (caspainhower@aep.com)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: Any advice? (Bill Howerton)
4. 08:13 AM - Re: Rubber Motor Mount Question (Mike Fothergill)
5. 09:05 AM - Fuel line routing (Rick)
6. 09:22 AM - Re: Microair radio (George Swinford)
7. 12:14 PM - Re: Any advice? (Don Honabach)
8. 03:09 PM - Fw: Powering up your Gyro's (Don Gordon)
9. 03:10 PM - Re: Fuel line routing (George Swinford)
10. 03:27 PM - Zenith 601XL for sale (Jim and Laura Chapman)
11. 05:53 PM - ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Steve Dixon)
12. 05:58 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (SEAL2CC@aol.com)
13. 06:00 PM - Re: Zenith 601XL for sale (Al Young)
14. 06:02 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Elwood140@aol.com)
15. 06:28 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Steve Dixon)
16. 06:40 PM - CH601 HD - tolerances (Carlos Sa)
17. 06:45 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Steve Dixon)
18. 06:53 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Gary Liming)
19. 07:59 PM - Re: CH601 HD - tolerances (Michel Therrien)
20. 08:17 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Don Honabach)
21. 08:30 PM - Fiberglass cowling (Michel Therrien)
22. 08:46 PM - Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller (Steve Danielson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Microair radio |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "barry mayne" <bazmay@bigpond.com>
G'day George,
I have the Microair radio and find the intercom trouble free, clear as
crystal and with the tiny on/off switch it works well. I do have head sets
with volume controls which allows the intercom volume to match the radio
volume.
Cheers\\Barry Mayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Microair radio
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
>
> A question for anyone using the Microair comm radio:
> Is the built-in intercom function satisfactory or should I plan on
installing a separate intercom?
> If the latter, what brand of intercom works well with the Microair radio?
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> George
>
>
Message 2
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05/09/2003 07:17:12 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
>Can also use industrial grade metal 2x4 that you can buy in 10 ft
>length.Then 2x4 cross pieces,then top and good base.
I used a 3/4" sheet of particle board, very heavy but particle board will
stay flat forever as long as you support it and don't get it too wet. Mine
is lying on top of some tables in the dining room. The tail is complete
and totally flat and warp free. I added another 4' particle board
extension for the wings, will let you know how they come out.
Craig
601 XL
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Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Well, everyone, I though I'd take a second to thank everyone again for all
their advice, and let you know what I'm doing with your information.
Based on everyone's advice, I plan to study the .pdf documents on-line along
with my printed manuals, then will print up a color version of them as I
prepare to work on each section that they pertain to. That way I think I
get the best of both worlds -- up-to-date color diagrams, without draining
the color printer of all its ink (in truth the color printer is my wife's
printer - I use a b/w laser - so this helps minimize her annoyance with my
newest hobby)
My work table is now complete -- It is 4 feet wide by 12 feet long. I used
3/4 inch particle board which I screwed to a 2 X 4 lattice frame. This is
being supported by three heavy-duty saw horses which I also screwed into
that same frame. I then carefully worked to get it completely level. I have
to admit, it took some work. My garage (like most of yours I'm sure) slopes
downward to allow drainage Using a carpenter's level laid on the table's
surface, I placed boards of increasing thicknesses under the legs of the
horses to get the table level. I then drew a one-inch grid over the entire
surface (yes, that was a tedious job) using black sharpies and dark-lead
pencils. Knowing that I would be marking up the surface, and also out of a
desire to protect the particle board from moisture and staining, I then
applied three coats of clear polyurethane. I wanted the surface to have a
hard durable finish.
As far as your suggestion that I get a 90 degree air drill: Well this may
sound funny, but I already owned one, but had no idea why I had it. My
father used to build airplanes for Northrop -- F5's mailny, he also used to
work for Bell Helicopter in Vietnam patching up bullet holes in the skins.
When he past on a few years ago, I inherited all of his tools -- to include
all of his aircraft-specific tools. Among them were a variety of clamps,
cleco wrenches, strangely-shaped bucking bars, adjustable countersinks, and
yes, a 90-degree air drill with several bits. Although I have to admit,
when I first saw it, I wasn't sure if I would ever find a use for it, so
it's been sitting in the big drawer with my other pneumatics. Based upon
your information however, I now see why he owned one. If it wasn't for your
advice, it would have remained in that drawer forever.
Thanks again!
Bill
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rubber Motor Mount Question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Fothergill <mfothergill@sympatico.ca>
Hi;
Mine look and feel good after 8 years and 900 hours on 912.
Mike
UHS Spinners
CH-601HDS
WAYNE BEATTIE wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: WAYNE BEATTIE <waynebeattie@optonline.net>
>
> I was wondering how one would determine when the rubber bushings on the motor
mounting should be replaced?
>
> Is there an age limit or just an inspection?
>
> Do they harden with age or soften?
>
> Anyone with any experience with this?
>
> Would one be able to tell by the way the engine feels when running that they
are too soft/hard?
>
> I read in an ultralight website that it recommended that they be changed yearly.
I assume that is for the severe environment that an ultralight may be subjected
to.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Wayne N601WB
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fuel line routing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
I'm trying to decide where to put the fuel selector valve in my 601HD
and would like to see some pics of others' installations. I plan on
using an extended handle so I can mount the valve towards the floor of
the cockpit so the lines run continuosly downhill avoid in order to
avoid any low spots for water to accumulate. The best spot that I can
see is low on the firewall, but the nose wheel steering push-pull rods
travel up and down in this area.
Any thoughts or photos from someone who has already sorted this out?
thanks,
Rick P.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Microair radio |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
Thanks Barry. I believe you also responded to my previous inquiry about
Microair. That contributed to my decision to incorporate that radio (and
transponder) in my panel.
George
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry mayne" <bazmay@bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Microair radio
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "barry mayne" <bazmay@bigpond.com>
>
> G'day George,
> I have the Microair radio and find the intercom trouble free, clear as
> crystal and with the tiny on/off switch it works well. I do have head sets
> with volume controls which allows the intercom volume to match the radio
> volume.
>
> Cheers\\Barry Mayne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Microair radio
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
> >
> > A question for anyone using the Microair comm radio:
> > Is the built-in intercom function satisfactory or should I plan on
> installing a separate intercom?
> > If the latter, what brand of intercom works well with the Microair
radio?
> >
> > Thanks for any input.
> >
> > George
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Bill,
>> Knowing that I would be marking up the surface, and also out of a
desire to protect the particle board from moisture and staining, I then
applied three coats of clear polyurethane. I wanted the surface to have
a hard durable finish.
For what it's worth, I just went ahead and put another thin particle
sheet on top of my table and screwed it down with a few screws
(countersunk). When the holes and marks start to bug me, I just flip it
over and use the other side. When that side is 'destoryed' I just buy
another thin sheet.
Regards,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Howerton [mailto:Bill@Howerton.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Any advice?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Well, everyone, I though I'd take a second to thank everyone again for
all their advice, and let you know what I'm doing with your information.
Based on everyone's advice, I plan to study the .pdf documents on-line
along with my printed manuals, then will print up a color version of
them as I prepare to work on each section that they pertain to. That
way I think I get the best of both worlds -- up-to-date color diagrams,
without draining the color printer of all its ink (in truth the color
printer is my wife's printer - I use a b/w laser - so this helps
minimize her annoyance with my newest hobby)
My work table is now complete -- It is 4 feet wide by 12 feet long. I
used 3/4 inch particle board which I screwed to a 2 X 4 lattice frame.
This is being supported by three heavy-duty saw horses which I also
screwed into that same frame. I then carefully worked to get it
completely level. I have to admit, it took some work. My garage (like
most of yours I'm sure) slopes downward to allow drainage Using a
carpenter's level laid on the table's surface, I placed boards of
increasing thicknesses under the legs of the horses to get the table
level. I then drew a one-inch grid over the entire surface (yes, that
was a tedious job) using black sharpies and dark-lead pencils. Knowing
that I would be marking up the surface, and also out of a desire to
protect the particle board from moisture and staining, I then applied
three coats of clear polyurethane. I wanted the surface to have a hard
durable finish.
As far as your suggestion that I get a 90 degree air drill: Well this
may sound funny, but I already owned one, but had no idea why I had it.
My father used to build airplanes for Northrop -- F5's mailny, he also
used to work for Bell Helicopter in Vietnam patching up bullet holes in
the skins. When he past on a few years ago, I inherited all of his tools
-- to include all of his aircraft-specific tools. Among them were a
variety of clamps, cleco wrenches, strangely-shaped bucking bars,
adjustable countersinks, and yes, a 90-degree air drill with several
bits. Although I have to admit, when I first saw it, I wasn't sure if I
would ever find a use for it, so it's been sitting in the big drawer
with my other pneumatics. Based upon your information however, I now
see why he owned one. If it wasn't for your advice, it would have
remained in that drawer forever.
Thanks again!
Bill
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fw: Powering up your Gyro's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Don Gordon <djgordon@bigpond.net.au>
Hi List
I've started installing instruments into my 701 and I was wondering
what other builders have used to drive there suction instruments.
ie. DG AH and turn & Bank instruments.
Thanks in advance Don
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel line routing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
Rick:
Are you using the header tank?
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel line routing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
>
>
> I'm trying to decide where to put the fuel selector valve in my 601HD
> and would like to see some pics of others' installations. I plan on
> using an extended handle so I can mount the valve towards the floor of
> the cockpit so the lines run continuosly downhill avoid in order to
> avoid any low spots for water to accumulate. The best spot that I can
> see is low on the firewall, but the nose wheel steering push-pull rods
> travel up and down in this area.
> Any thoughts or photos from someone who has already sorted this out?
>
> thanks,
> Rick P.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Zenith 601XL for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jim and Laura Chapman <jchapman@cpinternet.com>
Hello--I received the kit in November 2002. I had completed construction on
the rudder,horizontal stabilizer,elevator and elevator trim when I found I
had a medical problem. So--for sale--xl kit.
The completed portions are not for sale, but the rest of it is . This includes:
Xl kit less the competed tail section 200 1/8" clecoes
Nav/Strobe kit 200 5/32 clecoes
Aux fuel system 50 3/32 clecoes
landing light hand riveter
recessed aileron trim pneumatic riveter
manual and drawings misc clamps, primer etc.
I paid more than $18,400 ,not counting the packing and shipping costs--The
tail section ,which I will keep, cost 1495.00. This brings my cost down to
16,905. I'll sell the works for 12,900.00---picked up in my garage in
Duluth Minnesota--I'll help load it.
If interested--call Jim Chapman 218 729 8986 if I'm not in, leave a
message--I'll call back
Message 11
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| Subject: | ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
I recently bought one of the rivet pullers ZAC sells, and it continually leaks
a small amount of air through the system. It produces an audible hiss as long
as it is connected to an air line. In spite of this it seems to work just fine.
I need to determine if the hiss is normal in which case I can learn to ignore
it, or if I should contact ZAC and make arrangements to return it before
too much time goes by. I previously had one of the Harbor Freight pullers which
didn't leak at all. Has anyone else had this experience with a ZAC puller?
Thanks,
Steve Dixon
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: SEAL2CC@aol.com
Ask ZAC
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith 601XL for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Al Young" <armyret@one-eleven.net>
Jim- Sorry about your health problem necessitaqting the sale. I am about to
order the fuselage kit. Would you sell yours seperately? I've completed
the wings and empanage. Al Young
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Elwood140@aol.com
Steve, I also have one of the ZAC rivet pullers. It has hissed since new.
After several hundred rivets, it's working fine. I wouldn't worry about the
hiss. Does waste some air, though.
Larry Wood
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
I just thought I'd check with you guys first You're the ones who use them,
well, more of them.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <SEAL2CC@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: SEAL2CC@aol.com
>
> Ask ZAC
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | CH601 HD - tolerances |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, all
I have cut the upper and lower spar cap doublers (6V2-7HD and 6V2-8HD) out of an
0.125" plate (3 mm).
Due to systematic error, all these parts ended up being only 37.5 mm wide, instead
of the specified 38 mm.
I have sent an email to ZAC asking if this is acceptable, but, while waiting, I'd
like to know what this group thinks...?
(I know it's not a jet fighter, but it's part of the spar, so I'd rather ask than
worry.)
Carlos
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
Larry, thanks a bunch. Sounds like its a normal abnormality. I won't worry
about it.
Steve
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Elwood140@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Elwood140@aol.com
>
> Steve, I also have one of the ZAC rivet pullers. It has hissed since new.
> After several hundred rivets, it's working fine. I wouldn't worry about
the
> hiss. Does waste some air, though.
>
> Larry Wood
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
At 05:47 PM 5/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
> Has anyone else had this experience with a ZAC puller?
Mine hisses as well, but has worked fine.
Gary Liming
801
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: CH601 HD - tolerances |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
When it involves structural calculation, it is
probably better to call Chris Heintz. He is a nice
guy and answers the phone. Sometimes, ZAC will refer
you to Chris.
My opinion is that that .5mm won't affect a thing.
But if you want to be certain, check with the
designer.
Michel
--- Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Due to systematic error, all these parts ended up
> being only 37.5 mm wide, instead
> of the specified 38 mm.
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
I hope I'm not missing the obvious, but my pneumatic rivet puller (not
sure where I got it from though) doesn't hiss and never has nor have any
of the other 601 builder's that I've visited in my area. It would seem
that a hiss sound would mean air leakage and there shouldn't be any air
leakage when the tool is at rest and just connected to the hose.
Have the basics been checked? Is the connection to the air hose tight?
If you don't use some type of sealant (tape, etc.) you will get air
leakage on most metal screw type connections. Have you tried to connect
any other air tools up and do they make any hiss type noises?
Regards,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Liming [mailto:gary@liming.org]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
At 05:47 PM 5/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
> Has anyone else had this experience with a ZAC puller?
Mine hisses as well, but has worked fine.
Gary Liming
801
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Fiberglass cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
If anyone made or plan to make (and figured out how to
do it) a fiberglass cowling, please contact me. I
would like to check a few things with you.
Thanks!
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: ZAC Pneumatic Rivet Puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Danielson" <steved@nc.rr.com>
Mine hissed right up until it died about 6 months ago (lasted several years
and a couple owners) I bought the harbor freight one (the cheaper one, not
the one that says aircraft), and it has been much better, and no hiss. The
heads from the ZAC one fit the harbor freight one and I have been very happy
with it.
Steve
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