Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 AM - ()
2. 07:43 AM - Re: Fiberglass cowling (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
3. 10:49 AM - Re: Aileron end tip... (Gig)
4. 11:21 AM - CH701 - Installation and rigging of wings and strut assemblies (Hal Rozema)
5. 04:08 PM - Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling (Schallgren@aol.com)
6. 05:00 PM - Re: Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling (Jeff Small)
7. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Aileron end tip... (Michael Stempf)
8. 06:20 PM - Whither the video I sent? (prm@softhome.net)
9. 06:32 PM - Re: Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling (Michel Therrien)
10. 07:01 PM - Re: Is it a toy airplane???? (WAYNE BEATTIE)
11. 07:16 PM - sound damping (Ron DeWees)
12. 07:21 PM - Re:Fiberglass Cowling (Mark Townsend)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <jbirgiolas@smiletoronto.com>
John . . . Waterloo where? I am near Rochester, NY. Thanks Hap
Schoenberger 701 25%.
Waterloo, Ontario. Email off list for contact info please.
John Birgiolas
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fiberglass cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I can remove/fit the top cowl (actually this IS fitted under the fuse skin)
but the lower sides no way...not with the Stratus motor and 3 blade prop
anyway.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fiberglass cowling
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
Frank,
I recommend putting the cowl under the fuselage skin. It looks much
better and is cleaner. I have no trouble removing or putting the cowling on,
though it is a close fit. I'm not sure why yours is "nearly impossible". I
do it on every preflight. Don Walker, HDS
----- Original Message -----
From: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fiberglass cowling
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> I like the plan and I may copy this when I finally get fed up enough
> with the fit of the original and very expensive ZAC cowl.
>
> One thing, do not fit the cowl under the fuse skin as it is almost
> impossible to remove it with the prop fitted.
>
> What I did was to hack the back inch or so off the cowl add a 3" wide
> alu stip to the back of the joint to bolt the cowl to. The strip of
> FRP that
was
> hacked off sandwiches between the alu stip and fuse sides and acts as
> a spacer to give a flush fit between the cowl and fuse sides.
>
> You could of course make the new cowl this way too
>
> Frank
>
> Stratus, 601 HDS, 290 hours
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michel Therrien [mailto:mtherr@yahoo.com]
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fiberglass cowling
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> Thanks Mark. So you layed the fiberglass on top of
> the fuse skin. When you re-installed the cowling, did
> you put it on top or under the skin?
>
> Michel
>
> --- "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu> wrote:
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood"
> > <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
> >
> >
> > I went for the easy way of doing a fiberglass
> > cowling. I did the
> > plastic bag around engine type stuff then glued blue
> > board insulation
> > around it. I sawed, hot wired, and sanded this to
> > shape. I shaped to
> > the outside of the airframe. I then put a good coat
> > of wax over the
> > blue board and first three inches of the Al. I then
> > used this as a
> > male mold. I laid the fiberglass over the blue board
> > and the first
> > three inches of the Al. This needed to be filled and
> > sanded slightly
> > to make it smooth, but I think it was less work than
> > making a mold.
> > After it was formed and cut in half for the two
> > sections the blue
> > board pulled out.
> >
> > Changes if I were to do this again.
> >
> > I would have a solid shape on the front to sand to,
> > such as a piece
> > of plywood shaped as it would be at the back of the
> > nose bowl, or I
> > would use a nose bowl from Aircraft Spruce. If
> > building my own I
> > would take the wood off after shaping the rear
> > section add some blue
> > board to the front and form the nose bowl. It was
> > easy to know where
> > to shape to in the back as I shaped to the fuselage
> > but in the front
> > I was just free forming and I cut in too far a
> > couple of times and
> > had to fill with the hardware store expansion foam
> > and reshape. This
> > was a pain as the foam and the blue board sanded at different rates.
> >
> > I tried to form a little of the shape by how I built
> > up the blue
> > board. The next time I would use thicker blue board
> > for less glue
> > joints and keep all the sections parallel. This
> > stuff shapes so easy
> > that you can put on lots extra and hot wire or saw
> > the first 6 inches
> > off in very little time. It is the finer stuff that
> > takes more time
> > and for that the big thing would be to have
> > something in place at the
> > front to sand to.
> >
> > I could not build a second cowl from my plug like
> > you can with a
> > female mold, but I only needed one.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien
> > <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > >If anyone made or plan to make (and figured out how
> > to
> > >do it) a fiberglass cowling, please contact me. I
> > >would like to check a few things with you.
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> > >
> > >Michel
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Mark Wood
> > Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
> > Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
> > University of Vermont
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > latest messages.
> > List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: Aileron end tip... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gig <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
You and I seem to be at almost the same point in the building process. I
built the Alerons this weekend. I was going by the constuction manual
that I received at purchase (9/02) I did the cuts by the book and when
the time came to put the tip on the bottom was not lining up.
I had done enough that if it was bad wrong I was going to have to
replace it any way so I went ahead a trimed the bottom skin to fit and
finished the aleron and got within 0.2 degrees of the proper twist.
I had the same outcome when I did the other one. So, before went and
checked and there are indeed changes to the manual. In the earlier
manual you do all the marking BEFORE you put in the shim in the new
manual you do it after. At this point I'm left with the question is it
more important for them to be the same or for them to be exactly as
described. A called Zenith and the answer was make them the same. So I
finished the other aileron as I did the first and they look fine. At
least they do before I mount them on the wing. Looking at it I don't
think you are going to be able to tell the difference.
Lesson Learned
1. Before moving on see if there is a new manual section.
2. We aren't building the Space Shuttle.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf" <mstempf@earthlink.net>
Hey everyone,
Have a question for anyone who has already gone through the aileron
process, I am installing the end tip onto the ailerons - but they are
not going on as flush as I thought they should be. I read the "tip" in
the installation notes to put the top part of the rib over the 20 mm
over hang of the aileron - but it still does not sit on there right.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CH701 - Installation and rigging of wings and strut assemblies |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
Does anyone on the list have good documentation text and photos to help
me with the above?
Thanks,
Hal Rozema
theplanefolks.net
VSTOL CH701 SN 74718 N701PF
Jab 3300 ready for engine install
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Schallgren@aol.com
List:
Frank says: "One thing, do not fit the cowl under the fuse skin as it is
almost
impossible to remove it with the prop fitted."
I have to disagree with that. We have our cowling under the fuselage skin
and have removed it hundreds of times without problem. It goes back on
without a hitch and I believe it is structurally stronger than with the cowl
over the fuselage skin.
Just my humble and strongly held opinion.
Stan
601HDS/Jabiru 3300/Sensenich prop
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
+>"One thing, do not fit the cowl under the fuse skin as it is
+>almost impossible to remove it with the prop fitted."
>I have to disagree with that. We have our cowling under the fuselage skin
>and have removed it hundreds of times without problem. It goes back on
>without a hitch and I believe it is structurally stronger than with the
cowl
>over the fuselage skin.
>Just my humble and strongly held opinion.
Don't know how humble this can be but I disagree strongly with putting it
inside. With my Jab installation and only about 3/16 of an inch between the
spinner backing plate and the cowl, getting it to fit inside would only work
if I were to remove the spinner and prop each time.
What it boils down to is - How close to the prop and the spinner backing
plate do you want your cowl? If a gap of an inch or more suits you then it
may work on the inside. If you want a close fit for aerodynamic and
aesthetic reasons, then fit it outside. Spinner diameter also figures in.
The side and top skins in this area get their strength from their proximity
to the firewall. By placing the cowl over the skins you minimize the chance
that pressure on the sides or top of the cowl might crack or break area
where you've attached your dzus, camlock, or other fasteners.
With a cowling inside you scratch the paint on the cowl each time you slide
it into place. Each builder comes up with a different vision of this area
so go with what allows easy removal - whichever that may be.
Regards Jeff also with HDS/3300 combo and soon to try a GT prop
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: Aileron end tip... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf" <mstempf@earthlink.net>
All,
Thanks for all of the input on this - I have the latest ver of the
manual for this part so I think I will just bite the bullet and see how
it comes out. You are right - this isn't the space shuttle, but for
some reason I keep forgetting that!
Michael
601XL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gig
Subject: Zenith-List: re: Aileron end tip...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gig <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
You and I seem to be at almost the same point in the building process. I
built the Alerons this weekend. I was going by the constuction manual
that I received at purchase (9/02) I did the cuts by the book and when
the time came to put the tip on the bottom was not lining up.
I had done enough that if it was bad wrong I was going to have to
replace it any way so I went ahead a trimed the bottom skin to fit and
finished the aleron and got within 0.2 degrees of the proper twist.
I had the same outcome when I did the other one. So, before went and
checked and there are indeed changes to the manual. In the earlier
manual you do all the marking BEFORE you put in the shim in the new
manual you do it after. At this point I'm left with the question is it
more important for them to be the same or for them to be exactly as
described. A called Zenith and the answer was make them the same. So I
finished the other aileron as I did the first and they look fine. At
least they do before I mount them on the wing. Looking at it I don't
think you are going to be able to tell the difference.
Lesson Learned
1. Before moving on see if there is a new manual section.
2. We aren't building the Space Shuttle.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf"
<mstempf@earthlink.net>
Hey everyone,
Have a question for anyone who has already gone through the aileron
process, I am installing the end tip onto the ailerons - but they are
not going on as flush as I thought they should be. I read the "tip" in
the installation notes to put the top part of the rib over the 20 mm
over hang of the aileron - but it still does not sit on there right.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Whither the video I sent? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: prm@softhome.net
G'day,
Just wondered if the video I sent would appear in the zenith
photoshare at some point.
Best
Perry Morrison
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I believe that Frank raised a very good point that I
was about to oversee. Thanks Frank.
Perhaps with the stock ZAC cowling and a small spinner
it is not a problem.
But I have a 10" spinner attached to a HP hub (SAE 1
bolt pattern). That will be a custom cowling with a
cowling "plate" about 1/4" behind the hub. So, in
this situation, I now think that it would be
impossible to remove at least the bottom portion of
the cowling.
Michel
--- Schallgren@aol.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
> Schallgren@aol.com
>
> List:
>
> Frank says: "One thing, do not fit the cowl under
> the fuse skin as it is
> almost
> impossible to remove it with the prop fitted."
>
> I have to disagree with that. ..
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Is it a toy airplane???? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: WAYNE BEATTIE <waynebeattie@optonline.net>
Bill,
To bad I didn't know you were coming. I could have come down to meet you.
You must have flown right overhead. I'm parked at Oxford, CT, 20 miles
north of Stratford.
Wayne N601WB
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Is it a toy airplane????
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli <billvt@together.net>
>
> Yesterday Carol and I flew to Ct. in the HDS to visit with our son and at
> the airport the FBO parked me next to a rather large (by Zodiac standards)
> jet.
>
> It made for an interesting photo.
>
> If your interested, you can see it on the first page of my web site
> (address below)
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 240.0 flight hrs. - 342
> landings, 1 ON ICE!!)
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
I found a product on the internet recently that I thought might be of interest
to those finishing up the front end of their Zenith projects. I wanted something
to dampen the vibration and engine noise and thought some sort of padding
or mat would be the answer. I found some such products on the internet but also
saw a reference to something called Quite Solutions that is a water-based coating
that is painted, sprayed, or rolled onto a non-porus surface like aluminum.
I put the first coat of three reccomended on the forward inside portion
of the fusalage and firewall today and it seems like it will be a helpful product.
When you tap on the outside of painted skins there is a dull "tunk" sort
sound rather than loud rattle sound of unpainted surfaces. I still have 2
more coats to apply and won't know the ultimate results for a few months when
I start the Jab 3300.
The coating comes in several sizes and is made specificly for firewall applications.
It's rated up to 350 degrees minimum and good down to -70F. I will report
back on it's effectiveness when I start the motor.
Ron DeWees
601HDS/TD Jab 3300 in progress
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Fiberglass Cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
May I offer a suggestion to this thread. Under the end of the fuselage skin
rivet a piece of .032 about 50mm wide with 20 mm under the fuselage skin as
well as a standard "L" through the same rivet holes on the inside which
leaves an attachment lip of 30 mm to flush mount the freshly made cowling.
This will amazingly strengthen the fuselage skin at the end and with an
almost flush mount cowling will look quite nice. Yes it is added weight but
it allows for a cleaner air flow and no scratched paint upon inspection.
Also I would caution anyone from using the spray foam for contouring. It can
take up to a few weeks to fully cure if applied to thick. I will not be
using this product.
Just offering a suggestion
Mark Townsend
601XL EA-82MPFI Turbo
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Small <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Zenith List: Fiberglass Cowling
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
>
>
>+>"One thing, do not fit the cowl under the fuse skin as it is
>+>almost impossible to remove it with the prop fitted."
>
>>I have to disagree with that. We have our cowling under the fuselage
skin
>>and have removed it hundreds of times without problem. It goes back on
>>without a hitch and I believe it is structurally stronger than with the
>cowl
>>over the fuselage skin.
>
>>Just my humble and strongly held opinion.
>
>Don't know how humble this can be but I disagree strongly with putting it
>inside. With my Jab installation and only about 3/16 of an inch between
the
>spinner backing plate and the cowl, getting it to fit inside would only
work
>if I were to remove the spinner and prop each time.
>
>What it boils down to is - How close to the prop and the spinner backing
>plate do you want your cowl? If a gap of an inch or more suits you then it
>may work on the inside. If you want a close fit for aerodynamic and
>aesthetic reasons, then fit it outside. Spinner diameter also figures in.
>
>The side and top skins in this area get their strength from their proximity
>to the firewall. By placing the cowl over the skins you minimize the
chance
>that pressure on the sides or top of the cowl might crack or break area
>where you've attached your dzus, camlock, or other fasteners.
>
>With a cowling inside you scratch the paint on the cowl each time you slide
>it into place. Each builder comes up with a different vision of this area
>so go with what allows easy removal - whichever that may be.
>
>Regards Jeff also with HDS/3300 combo and soon to try a GT prop
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|