Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:58 AM - Re: Ref Noise from turn and slip. (Benford2@aol.com)
2. 05:58 AM - CH-801 Wing Dihedral (Rick Campbell)
3. 06:16 AM - Re: CH-801 Wing Dihedral (Benford2@aol.com)
4. 03:14 PM - Re: Aluminum cleaner and paintable silicone caulk (TomLazear@netscape.net (John Lazear))
5. 07:16 PM - Re: TIG welding... (Robert Hillebrand)
6. 07:26 PM - Re: TIG welding... (Robert Hillebrand)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ref Noise from turn and slip. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/25/2003 12:25:18 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
r.p.reynolds@blueyonder.co.uk writes:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "r.p.reynolds" <
> r.p.reynolds@blueyonder.co.uk>
>
> The turn and slip is the Falcon one by Wultrad,inc.
>
> regards
>
> Paul.
>
>
These are giving most people a problem too. Here is a link to another of
matronics sites that have had a lively discussion on this very matter. You will
have to go thruogh the archives to find all the feedback.
Ben Haas. N801BH.
<A HREF="mailto:aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com">aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | CH-801 Wing Dihedral |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Campbell <rcampbell@me.vccs.edu>
I am trying to set the dihedral of the wings on the 801, the drawing indicates
that a string is streached accross the wings following the main spar rivet
line and the string should be 148mm above rib station 1 on each wing. Should
the string be streached from the 3rd rivet at the end of the sparof each wing
or should the string extend from the physical end of the wing tips?
Thanks,
Rick
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CH-801 Wing Dihedral |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/25/2003 6:59:34 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
rcampbell@me.vccs.edu writes:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Campbell <rcampbell@me.vccs.edu>
>
> I am trying to set the dihedral of the wings on the 801, the drawing
> indicates
> that a string is streached accross the wings following the main spar rivet
> line and the string should be 148mm above rib station 1 on each wing. Should
>
> the string be streached from the 3rd rivet at the end of the sparof each
> wing
> or should the string extend from the physical end of the wing tips?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
>
>
Most of us 801 builders have gone from the wingtips to get the 148mm setting.
If you have a digital inclinometer it works out to 2.375 degrees. Set the
digital readout square on top of the main spar and it will flicker between 2.3
and 2.4 degrees. That way you know it is reading just under 2.4 degrees. Also
most of us have found that on initial mounting of the wings they are forward
swept and need to be layed back 1 inch or so to get them square with the fuselage
centerline. If I had to do mine over again I would have left it in a forward
swept position to get the CG to work out better. Seems that even by staying
under the 440 lbs firewall forward weight on the powerplant it takes a lot of
lead in the tailcone to get within range. If you have Yahoo Messenger loaded in
your computer there are a dozen of us you can instant message all the time to
share our building experiences with and swap ideas. I am both, stol83001 and
n801bh in Yahoo Messenger. It is a free download to get it and once you
contact any one of us we can put you on our builders list and that will give you
all
the others names.
Ben Haas N801BH.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Aluminum cleaner and paintable silicone caulk |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: TomLazear@netscape.net (John Lazear)
I used the paintable silicone around the gas caps on mine, it seems to have worked
okay its been caulked and painted for three years now and looks as good as
when I done it.
Tom 701
"LARRY BOHANNON" <lbohannon1@msn.com> wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "LARRY BOHANNON" <lbohannon1@msn.com>
>
>I'm just finishing up my 701 right wing and I would like to clean it before putting
it away in storage while I work on the rest of the plane.
> I use laquer thinner to remove the sharpie markings and tried Dawn dishwashing
detergent and a non-solvent cleaner/degreaser from Home Depot to try and remove
the greasy handprints,sweat, etc. but still doesn't clean up very well.
>Question: Anybody know of any good cleaners for the handprints,grease? Should
I try Alumprep or wait until I'm ready to paint?
>
>Also, I would like to caulk various places, especially around where the gas cap
comes through the skin.Thought I would try a paintable silicone caulk. Anybody
tried this or know of something better?
>
>Regards,
>
>Larry Bohannon
>Building "Miss Ride Me High 701"
>Winder, Georgia
>
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: TIG welding... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Robert Hillebrand <masterbogun@yahoo.com>
let me tell you a few pointers. First what machine did you buy? I have a Miller
in my shop at work and a Lincoln in my hanger here at the house. The big difference
is that the Miller gets quite unstable at amps below 30. The Lincoln goes
down to 5amps with good stability.
If you are planning to weld Al. you first should know that when you Tig Al. there
is a coating on the metal that you just can't clean off. You have to hit it
with extra heat and as soon as you see the coating(look close when starting and
you will see a layer burn off)get off the heat or you will burn thru.
If you have a machine like one of mine say 180 amps the Tung. size should never
be over 1/8. I use 3/32 most of the time. Al.is hard to enough to weld so just
clean,clean,clean,and clean again. Get yourself a Stainless Steel brush and
keep it just for cleaning Al.
If you want to start with steel get some 16ga and practice on it.Heat setting should
be 50amps or so.
They make all different types of Tung. but all I use is Red or Green
Any other help you need feel free to write me.
By the way I have been in welding and fabrication for 30 years. The last 26 has
been as the Senior welder at the St.Louis Zoo here in St. Louis. I am building
a 701 from plans...............Bo
Jari Kaija <jari.kaija@pp.inet.fi> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jari Kaija"
Just bought used TIG welding machine:
http://www.jarikaija.com/pub/kemppi_tu20.jpg
I would be more than happy, if you have any tricks, resources and
advices about TIG-welding... and ofcourse, FOR FREE!
"first_time_welding_side.jpg": http://www.jarikaija.com/pub/eka_kerta_hitsipuoli.jpg
"first_time_back_side_of_welding": http://www.jarikaija.com/pub/eka_kerta_hitsin_takapuoli.jpg
I know, it will take a long time to learn "perfect" welder, but... day by day...
-Jari
www.jarikaija.com
www.project-ch701.net
(Spammers! All spam messages will be deleted automatically
from server, so, save your miserable time...)
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: TIG welding... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Robert Hillebrand <masterbogun@yahoo.com>
I just seen your pictures. They don't look too bad for starters. Listen what I
find with tig is don't be afraid. Just get in there ,breath regular,always try
to rest your torch hand on something .
Your speed looks ok ,your heat setting looks alittle hot. Weld is abit too flat..From
your picture I would run it right to left with my torch pointed in direction
of travel about 30 deg. off horizontal
Jari Kaija <jari.kaija@pp.inet.fi> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jari Kaija"
Just bought used TIG welding machine:
http://www.jarikaija.com/pub/kemppi_tu20.jpg
I would be more than happy, if you have any tricks, resources and
advices about TIG-welding... and ofcourse, FOR FREE!
"first_time_welding_side.jpg": http://www.jarikaija.com/pub/eka_kerta_hitsipuoli.jpg
"first_time_back_side_of_welding": http://www.jarikaija.com/pub/eka_kerta_hitsin_takapuoli.jpg
I know, it will take a long time to learn "perfect" welder, but... day by day...
-Jari
www.jarikaija.com
www.project-ch701.net
(Spammers! All spam messages will be deleted automatically
from server, so, save your miserable time...)
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