Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:26 AM - Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... (Benford2@aol.com)
2. 03:32 AM - Re: Flanging lightening holes (Don Gordon)
3. 04:16 AM - Crank case vent (Aaron)
4. 05:03 AM - Re: Experimenting with prop pitch..... (Beckman, Rick)
5. 05:29 AM - 701 doors (John Birgiolas)
6. 06:15 AM - Re: 701 doors (Elwood140@aol.com)
7. 06:27 AM - My 601XL Homepage (Gig)
8. 06:34 AM - Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... (Don Honabach)
9. 06:48 AM - Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... (Benford2@aol.com)
10. 08:53 AM - Re: 701 doors (Gary Gower)
11. 09:16 AM - Re: Tygon Tubing and Grommets... (Bryan Martin)
12. 11:07 AM - Re: 701 doors (ac6qj@earthlink.net)
13. 11:26 AM - Re: TIG welding... (Jari Kaija)
14. 11:53 AM - Re: 701 doors (Frank Stutzman)
15. 12:33 PM - Re: 701 doors (ac6qj@earthlink.net)
16. 01:00 PM - 701 doors (LARRY BOHANNON)
17. 02:22 PM - Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... (Flydog1966@aol.com)
18. 04:12 PM - Re: 701 doors (Chuck Deiterich)
19. 05:43 PM - 601XL Rear Rib Attachment (W.R. \)
20. 05:46 PM - flanging die/ bolt (Fred Poor)
21. 05:49 PM - Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... (Don Honabach)
22. 06:14 PM - Tig Welding (Brandon Tucker)
23. 06:16 PM - Re: 701 doors (xl)
24. 06:17 PM - Re: 701 doors (Frank Stutzman)
25. 06:58 PM - Re: flanging dies (Monty Graves)
26. 07:01 PM - Re: 701 doors (ac6qj@earthlink.net)
27. 07:03 PM - Re: 701 doors (ac6qj@earthlink.net)
28. 07:50 PM - Re: 701 doors (Scott Harding)
29. 07:52 PM - Problem solved (Chris Weber)
30. 08:06 PM - Re: flanging die/ bolt (George Swinford)
31. 08:21 PM - Re: 701 doors (Cy Galley)
32. 08:58 PM - VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks (ac6qj@earthlink.net)
33. 09:17 PM - CH-640 project (Jeff Paden)
34. 09:53 PM - Assembling Wing Skin 601HD (Graham Kirby)
35. 11:01 PM - Re: Assembling Wing Skin 601HD (Don Honabach)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/26/2003 9:31:02 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
don@pcperfect.com writes:
>
> If anyone is or has used the rubber grommets from Aircraft Spruce to aid
> in running your Tygon based tubing for your static/pitot lines, most
> likely you'll want to replace this right away. I ran mine in my wing
> with these grommets and the rubber grommets reacted with the Tygon
> tubing and now the tubing is destoryed in any area where the tubing came
> into contact with the grommet :(
>
> For what it's worth, I've since switch to the plastic grommets and
> hoping these won't react with the tubing.
>
> Regards,
> Don Honabach
>
I hope the hell you are kidding ???????
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Flanging lightening holes |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Gordon" <djgordon@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Carlos
I went through the same faze
I made the 2 dies from a dence plastic sheet ( polyethelene )
spun them on the lath with a centering plug
put the piece into the die and just hit it with a large hammer
work out perfect
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Flanging lightening holes
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> For almost a month, I have been working on different items, avoiding the
logical
> next step in the projet:
> Flanging the lightening holes.
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
How does Stratus or any other EA81 users vent the crankcase? Where do the valve
cover nipples go to? How are they terminated? Any oil separator or the like?
Aaron
Message 4
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| Subject: | Experimenting with prop pitch..... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Beckman, Rick" <Rick.Beckman@ATK.COM>
> Please excuse me if this is totally ridiculous but, could your prop be on
> backwards?
>
>
Good thought, but the thrust would be in the forward direction. (Reverse
thrust)
Sorry to burst a bubble, but the thrust would be in the same
direction. Think
of the pitch as the compass line on a DG. If you have a line across
90 to 180, the
reciprocal ( like turning the prop over) is still 180 to 90. Same
line, same pitch.
Rick XL
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Birgiolas" <johnbirgiolas@hotmail.com>
Has anyone flown with the 701 doors hinged open. It seems the flying characteristics
would be altered and the doors would buffet significantly?
Is there a photo available of a sliding or hinged window ?
Thanks, John
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Elwood140@aol.com
Hi, all
Just a note about flying the 701 with the doors open. Nick Heintz says it is
not advisable to do that. Okay to fly with the doors off, though.
Larry Wood
Message 7
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| Subject: | My 601XL Homepage |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gig <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
I have finally got my homepage for my 601XL to the point that I'm not
embarassed by it. Please feel free to visit and if you do please sign my
guest book.
http://www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Gig Giacona
Message 8
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| Subject: | Zygon Tubing and Grommets... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>> I hope the hell you are kidding ???????
Wish I were. Just got done re-ordering some replacement Tygon tubing.
The tubing wall thinned considerably at the grommet area and the tubing
turned black about an inch to each side of the grommet hole.
Technically the tubing is functional, but the deterioration is major and
if it continues will cause the tubing to break/fail.
In any case, if you have the stuff with the rubber grommets, definitely
worth a quick inspection. However, I didn't noticed any problems during
the first 6 months, and the wings have been sitting for around 2 to 3
years. My guess is that the tubing was affected pretty quickly right at
the grommet and then over time spread outside the grommet area and was
then noticeable without moving the tubing. For what it's worth, the
tubing outside of the grommet areas has held up like it's brand new.
Sorry for the bad news :(
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Benford2@aol.com [mailto:Benford2@aol.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Zygon Tubing and Grommets...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/26/2003 9:31:02 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
don@pcperfect.com writes:
>
> If anyone is or has used the rubber grommets from Aircraft Spruce to
> aid in running your Tygon based tubing for your static/pitot lines,
> most likely you'll want to replace this right away. I ran mine in my
> wing with these grommets and the rubber grommets reacted with the
> Tygon tubing and now the tubing is destoryed in any area where the
> tubing came into contact with the grommet :(
>
> For what it's worth, I've since switch to the plastic grommets and
> hoping these won't react with the tubing.
>
> Regards,
> Don Honabach
>
I hope the hell you are kidding ???????
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/27/2003 7:35:21 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
don@pcperfect.com writes:
> Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> >> I hope the hell you are kidding ???????
>
> Wish I were. Just got done re-ordering some replacement Tygon tubing.
>
> The tubing wall thinned considerably at the grommet area and the tubing
> turned black about an inch to each side of the grommet hole.
>
> Technically the tubing is functional, but the deterioration is major and
> if it continues will cause the tubing to break/fail.
>
> In any case, if you have the stuff with the rubber grommets, definitely
> worth a quick inspection. However, I didn't noticed any problems during
> the first 6 months, and the wings have been sitting for around 2 to 3
> years. My guess is that the tubing was affected pretty quickly right at
> the grommet and then over time spread outside the grommet area and was
> then noticeable without moving the tubing. For what it's worth, the
> tubing outside of the grommet areas has held up like it's brand new.
>
> Sorry for the bad news :(
>
> Don
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Benford2@aol.com [mailto:Benford2@aol.com]
>
My wings have been built for over two years now and I just went out to my
hanger and looked real close at the mating area of the grommet to tubing. I used
the tubing supplied by Zenith and grommets bought at AS&S. MIne show
absolutely no signs of deterioration at all. I can sleep better now........\
Ben Haas N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Just thinking... How will the HUGE baggage comparment will affect (like
a drag chute) in the performance and handling of the 701?
Maybe a sliding window will give enough vent.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S
Near to install the doors.
--- John Birgiolas <johnbirgiolas@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Birgiolas"
> <johnbirgiolas@hotmail.com>
>
> Has anyone flown with the 701 doors hinged open. It seems the flying
> characteristics would be altered and the doors would buffet
> significantly?
>
> Is there a photo available of a sliding or hinged window ?
>
> Thanks, John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List:Tygon Tubing and Grommets... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 5/27/03 9:47 AM, Benford2@aol.com at Benford2@aol.com wrote:
> My wings have been built for over two years now and I just went out to my
> hanger and looked real close at the mating area of the grommet to tubing. I
> used
> the tubing supplied by Zenith and grommets bought at AS&S. MIne show
> absolutely no signs of deterioration at all. I can sleep better now........\
>
> Ben Haas N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
>
I think Zenith supplied polyethylene tubing or possibly nylon tubing.
Neither should be affected by contact with the grommets and both are much
cheaper than Tygon.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
Had a friend push open a door on a Cessna, just slightly, to slam
shut after retrieving a flapping passenger seat belt. The disturbed
air over the the stabilizer caused a violent downward pitching
moment. Unless the doors swing up/down and not out, it might not be
a good idea to open the doors in flight. Having said that, flying
around with the doors open on an aircraft designed to do so
(SuperCubs and Mountain Goat included) is a real gas!
--
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
================================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL SN #601-4939, Jabiru 3300
Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Under Construction - 50% completed
================================================================================
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: TIG welding... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija@pp.inet.fi>
Maybe I should tell earlier, that I use TIG only for 4130N tubings,
since I got many tips for aluminium welding. My fuel tanks was
welded by professional aprx one and half year ago...
I got a lot of a good tricks and tips considering about TIG welding.
I believe, I have now every major information what I need to go on.
Thanks goes to everyone!
-Jari
www.jarikaija.com
www.project-ch701.net
(Spammers! All spam messages will be deleted automatically
from server, so, save your miserable time...)
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Frank Stutzman <stutzman@stutzman.com>
On Tue, 27 May 2003 ac6qj@earthlink.net wrote:
> Had a friend push open a door on a Cessna, just slightly, to slam
> shut after retrieving a flapping passenger seat belt. The disturbed
> air over the the stabilizer caused a violent downward pitching
> moment. Unless the doors swing up/down and not out, it might not be
> a good idea to open the doors in flight.
Curious. I had a primary flight instructor who routinly the demonstrated
"dive brakes" on a 152. Thottle to idle, full flaps and open both doors
as much as you can (which is all of maybe 8 inches). Makes for an
exceedingly steep approach. Probably not something you should do on a
routine basis as its hard on the door hardware.
I certainly don't remember any violent pitching. Perhaps your passenger
bumped the yoke in the process of closing the door?
Frank Stutzman
Bonanza N494B "Hula Girl"
future 701 builder
Hood River, OR
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>I certainly don't remember any violent pitching. Perhaps your passenger
>bumped the yoke in the process of closing the door?
>
Nope, the yoke wasn't bumped. Wasn't me. It was a pilot friend and
it was a Cessna 310.
DO NOT ARCHIVE.
--
Best regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "LARRY BOHANNON" <lbohannon1@msn.com>
Fred,
I was planning on making my doors with the full lexan and would really like to
have a opening window in the doors also.It gets really hot around here. Do you
have any plans or pictures you can share on your doors? Also, I notice at the
Skyshop website they have developed some bubble doors for the 701 which they
are selling for around $300. They look really nice but ideally I would like to
have the bubble doors with full lexan and opening window.
Regards,
Larry Bohannon
building "Miss Ride Me High 701"
Winder, Georgia
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Fred Poor <fredspoor2002@yahoo.com>
Also, Chris had plans available to install hinged
windows in the forward (older style) swinging
doors---- I covered my 701 doors entirely with clear
lexan with a swing open window----- what great
visibility, with the security of having the doors
closed and great ventalation with the windows open, in
flight and on the ground-- "fred"
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Zygon Tubing and Grommets... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
tygon tube wall is thin? black on tubing? Could it be a case of the tygon
is working back and forth in the gromet, wearing the wall thickness down and
leaving black gromet stain on it?
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Larry,
I have full Lexan doors on my 701. I used a 3-1/4" diameter vent from
Aircraft Spruce in each door just above the middle tube towards the front.
They work very well and are a lot simpler to install. By hand, I used a fly
cutter with a
drilled (1/4" hole) of 2x6 behind the Lexan to hold the pilot drill
straight.
Took about 10 minutes. I practiced on scraps to get a good fit.
I also designed my own door handles which work very well. Pix, but before
vent installation, can be seen at http://members.thegateway.net/cfd .
Chuck D.
N701TX
----- Original Message -----
From: LARRY BOHANNON <lbohannon1@msn.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 doors
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "LARRY BOHANNON"
Message 19
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| Subject: | 601XL Rear Rib Attachment |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "W.R. \"Gig\" Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
How did get the main spar to say in an upright position as you attached the
Rear Spars? This is the first thing I've come accross in the process that
there is nothing in the construction manual to give you any idea how to do
it. No text or photos.
I have a feeling it is going to be a matter of clamping it in position but I
don't want to reinvent the wheel here.
Gig Giacona
Message 20
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| Subject: | flanging die/ bolt |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Fred Poor <fredspoor2002@yahoo.com>
I have a 3/8" hole drilled in the center of my dies--
I use a fine threaded bolt and draw the 2 halves
together by tighten' ing the nut ( I usually use a
"boxed -in" wrench in my left hand and a rachet in my
right) until both pieces are tight against the
aluminum piece I'm flanging. Has worked great for 2
planes----- "fred" do not archive
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Zygon Tubing and Grommets... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>> could it be a case of the tygon is working back and forth in the
grommet, wearing the wall thickness down and leaving black grommet
stain on it?
Probably not in my case. The wing hasn't moved for a couple of years and
the wall thinning is exactly the same dimensions of the grommet. From
visual inspection is obvious that there was a reaction between the two
materials.
Good news is that this is probably just a Tygon versus rubber grommet
issue.
I would encourage anyone who did decide to 'upgrade' to Tygon to check
any place where the tubing comes into contact with other rubber based
materials.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Flydog1966@aol.com [mailto:Flydog1966@aol.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Zygon Tubing and Grommets...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
tygon tube wall is thin? black on tubing? Could it be a case of the
tygon
is working back and forth in the gromet, wearing the wall thickness down
and
leaving black gromet stain on it?
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 22
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Jari,
Agree with other posts. For steel, it is best to use a 2% thoriated (red)
tungsten, and pure tungsten (green) for aluminum. Use a sander / grinder to
sharpen the 2% tip with the grind paralell to the tungsten for steel. For the
shiny "ball" tip for aluminum, just strike a high amperage arc on any piece of
mild steel, and it will form within a few seconds in AC.
If you contaminate the tungsten while welding aluminum (very easy to do),
remove it from the torch, hold the tungsten with a pair of pliers below the contamination,
and smack it on the table to break off the contaminated end. Then
just make a new "ball" as described above.
For welding mild steel or stainless, keep the filler rod close to the puddle
to pre heat it. While welding aluminum, keep the filler rod a bit furthur
away or it will melt up the rod in a ball. Make sure you keep moving with aluminum
as it dissipates heat much faster than steel, and your puddle will try to
grow on you.
I was a tig welder prior to joining the Navy mass producing windsurfing parts
and chiropractic equipment. I love the look of a good TIG bead - specially
on aluminum. By the look of your first weld, you'll be a pro in no time!
Brandon Tucker
---------------------------------
Message 23
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
I forgot to close the fold up pilot's window on a Cessna 172.
When I was climbing past the control tower I reached out and pulled it
down. The wind caught it and my nose went up my airspeed went down and I
turned left towards the tower. It was an exciting second. I let the window
go for the moment, regained controlled and climbed. I eased the window
closed later on when I had some altitude.
It seems to me that things sticking out of the airplane can move it around
unpredictably depending on how they interact with the slipstream.
Joe
On Tue, 27 May 2003 ac6qj@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>
> >I certainly don't remember any violent pitching. Perhaps your passenger
> >bumped the yoke in the process of closing the door?
> >
>
> Nope, the yoke wasn't bumped. Wasn't me. It was a pilot friend and
> it was a Cessna 310.
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE.
>
Message 24
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Frank Stutzman <stutzman@stutzman.com>
On Tue, 27 May 2003 ac6qj@earthlink.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>
> >I certainly don't remember any violent pitching. Perhaps your passenger
> >bumped the yoke in the process of closing the door?
> >
>
> Nope, the yoke wasn't bumped. Wasn't me. It was a pilot friend and
> it was a Cessna 310.
Ooo! a 310. Quite a bit of a different animal than a 152. Also quite a
bit different than a 701.
I don't have any personal experiance with the 310, but I do know simular
planes (Beech Baron is what I'm familar with) that will indeed have some
unusual behavior when the door is open. I'd guess that such behavior
would be a because of disturbing the airflow between the fuselage and the
engine nancelle. I would hazard a guess that such pitching behavior would
never be seen in a single engined plane.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Frank Stutzman
future 701 builder
Bonanza N494B "Hula Girl"
Hood River, OR
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: flanging dies |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
For guys that really don't have acces to a lathe or a good drill press (a
friend made his on his floor drill press) There is a company in the St.
Louis area called Mitter Bros Machine. They make flanging dies for the
race car industry. They also made the ones Zenith uses to make all the
kits with. Except Zenith has special ones that both cut and flange in one
press process.
I bought 2 dies off the shelf, in inches not mm which were a couple of mm
smaller than what the plans called for. And had them custom machine the
other one. Been a couple of years but I think all three were less than
$200 And they are works of art really.
Later I found out about flanging holes from the Bear Hawk (think thats
correct) with what they call a "bob stick" It is now their choice for
doing flanging holes. I think in their plane there is 8 size holes in like
150 various ribs.
It is a simple hard wood dowel or square sanded down to about pinky finger
size on one end. A slit cut with a hack saw blade is cut in the narrow
end. A screw is drilled through to reinforce the slit so that the tips
don't brake off. It helps to cut the slit so that the grain of the hard
wood stick is postitioned for the max strength. slit is cut cross grain
not parallel to it.
The flange is made in the same priniciple we use to bend over the ribs.
insert the slit over the alum to be flanged. Only bend about 25-33% of the
flange at time. slowly at first working around the hole. bending a little
then moving the stick a little. Go around 3-4 times.
As silly as this may seem. I works very very well, and its faster than
loading and unloading dies. Practice on 3 holes and you will be an
expert,and hard pressed to tell the difference. It works on any shape
hole, even square ones like in the GA ribs.
I recently used it to make the welding flanges in the wing tanks to accept
the weld on necks.
If you haven't made dies yet, try the stick first, on some scrap. I don't
think you will end up making them
I have a couple of pictures of the little stick, somewhere if my
description wasn't clear enough
Monty
Message 26
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
>
>
>I forgot to close the fold up pilot's window on a Cessna 172.
>When I was climbing past the control tower I reached out and pulled it
>down. The wind caught it and my nose went up my airspeed went down and I
>turned left towards the tower. It was an exciting second. I let the window
>go for the moment, regained controlled and climbed. I eased the window
>closed later on when I had some altitude.
>
>It seems to me that things sticking out of the airplane can move it around
>unpredictably depending on how they interact with the slipstream.
>
>Joe
>
I once flew by the tower on approach to 32L at KCCR in a PA-18-150
with the door open, window open, holding the stick between my knees
and flapping my arms out the door and window like a bird. Too much
fun...
OK - OK - I'll get back on topic now...
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
================================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL builder #4939, Jabiru 3300
Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Under Construction
================================================================================
Message 27
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>I would hazard a guess that such pitching behavior would
>never be seen in a single engined plane.
>
You might be right. Certainly worth trying it at altitude where you
have plenty of room to recover. If it is benign over the range of
airspeeds and attitudes that you intend to fly in that configuration
then I guess you're good to go!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
================================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL SN #601-4939, Jabiru 3300
Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Under Construction - 50% completed
================================================================================
Message 28
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Scott Harding <sharding@wt.net>
I had the passenger door on C150 pop open on me once. I reached over,
opened the door to give it a good slam shut and didn't notice anything usual.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Harding
701 Plans and Rudder...looking at the 601XL
At 12:33 PM 5/27/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>
> >I certainly don't remember any violent pitching. Perhaps your passenger
> >bumped the yoke in the process of closing the door?
> >
Message 29
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Weber" <chrisoz@gmx.net>
Hello Listers,
two weeks ago I encountered a pronounced lack of performance from my EA 81
during the maiden flight of my newly finished 601 Special. The problem ways
fairly easy to find, after checking out the ignition we turned to the carbys
and reset the needles to max. lean, with a marked improvement. The poor EA81
was virtually chocking on fuel above 4700 rpm! After replacing the jets and
some fine adjusting it runs smooth and powerfull all through the range. I
will have to reset the pitch, as I can now over-rev the engine straight and
level. The empty weight of the plane is 710 lb, the BRS shure didn't help to
keep the weight down, and with my 220 lb and 40 L of fuel she has a climb
rate of 1100 ftpm. I am quite happy with that :-)
The engine runs a bit cool, the water never goes over 70 C, so I will
reduce the angle of the radiator under the rear spar, to gain a few degrees
and maybe a knot or two in the process.
Now that she climbs the plane is a pleasure to fly, very well balanced, she
doesn't weave around as much as my first one, and the balance ball is
centered most of the time without any input from me. I guess the different
fuselage shape makes it a bit more steady as opposed to the bubble canopy.
The longer undercarriage (about 15 cm) sees the wheels further forward, and
while it is harder to see over the nose during taxi (taildragger) the plane
rides more solid, no tendency to nose over at all. The mayor difference is
the steadfast landing performance, my first taildragger with standard legs
and 912 floated like a pelican on roundout, and short field landings were a
bit of a problem. This one settles down nicely, and is very easy to control.
The weather is a bit wet and windy with winter so close, but I hope to be up
again on the weekend to get some decent performance figures at last, and to
fly off the remaining hours of the test period.
I will put some pictures on the photoshare soon.
Last not least, I have started building again. One rainy day and the
workshop sucks me in like a black hole. I have bought a Verner 1400, a nice
little 80 hp four-stroke, two cylinder Czech aircooled engine, engine mount
and all, and have started on the fuselage and the spars of the next project.
It will be a Zodiac XL, well, sort of.
I guess I shouldn't call a XL with tailwheel, two open cockpits in tandem
and no taper in the wings an XL.
I hold Chris H. in the highest regard, and I shouldn't do that to him.
Because I want to keep it as straightforward as possible, no doors, no
canopy, mechanical flaps operated with a lever from the rear pilot cockpit,
K.I.S.S. strickes me as a better name.
As it is a bastard I will not bore you guys with any more details, but I
will let you know when it flies at some point in the future.
Cheers from downunder,
Chris
Zodiac 601 TD Special, EA 81, 14 h TT
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: flanging die/ bolt |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
I've used the sane system, except with a larger coarse threaded bolt. Works
great.
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Poor" <fredspoor2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: flanging die/ bolt
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Fred Poor <fredspoor2002@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a 3/8" hole drilled in the center of my dies--
> I use a fine threaded bolt and draw the 2 halves
> together by tighten' ing the nut ( I usually use a
> "boxed -in" wrench in my left hand and a rachet in my
> right) until both pieces are tight against the
> aluminum piece I'm flanging. Has worked great for 2
> planes----- "fred" do not archive
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 31
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I believe that part of certification is a requirement to be able to maintain
control with a door open. I know that an open door on my Bellanca changes
little but makes lot of noise. On my plane you have to land to close as
well.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 doors
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>
> >I would hazard a guess that such pitching behavior would
> >never be seen in a single engined plane.
> >
>
> You might be right. Certainly worth trying it at altitude where you
> have plenty of room to recover. If it is benign over the range of
> airspeeds and attitudes that you intend to fly in that configuration
> then I guess you're good to go!
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> --
>
> Best Regards, Ray Montagne
> Cupertino, CA
>
>
============================================================================
====
>
> Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL SN #601-4939, Jabiru 3300
> Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
> Build Status: Rudder completed
> Elevator Completed
> Stabilizer Completed
> Flaps Completed
> Ailerons Completed
> Right Wing Under Construction - 50% completed
>
>
============================================================================
====
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
Hello List,
I'm about to install the VDO Fuel Level Sender into the leading
edge fuel tanks on the XL. The VDO sender documentation indicates
that the sender is to be installed vertically from the top of the
fuel tank with the float arm extending out horizontally. The XL
drawings show the sender installed horizontally into the side of
the fuel tank. This would leave the float arm extended vertically
to swing like a pendulum where the float arm needs to move more
like the motion of moving your arm in a jumping jack to properly
translate to rotation of the sender.
Applying a 90 degree bend to the float arm would certainly translate
the movement to the correct direction given the 90 degree change
in orientation of mounting of the sender. Is this how other builders
have solved this or is there another solution?
--
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
================================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL SN #601-4939, Jabiru 3300
Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Under Construction - 50% completed
================================================================================
Message 33
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Paden" <jeffpaden@madbbs.com>
Hello, I have decided not to continue building my CH-640. I have completed
the Rudder and have started the kit for the tail wing but simply do not have
the time needed to build this aircraft. We have instead been rebuilding our
CH-300 and since my children will be grown and moved away before I can
finish my CH-640 I simply do not have a need to continue.=0D
=0D
This has been a hard choice to make, but we love our CH-300 and since we are
putting a Turbo Prop on her she will be more than we should ever need.=0D
=0D
If anyone on this list is interested in the completed rudder and the tail
wing kit (started) then please contact me off the list at jeffpaden@madbbs
com=0D
=0D
I want to get the kit out of my hanger before I change my mind <grin>=0D
=0D
Thank you all for your support over the past year.=0D
=0D
Jeff Paden=0D
=0D
do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | Assembling Wing Skin 601HD |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
Has anyone found the secret to getting the wing skins nice and smooth,
without using .020 in place of the .016?
In the assembly manual it says to attach the crimped 'L' stiffeners to the
skin before putting the skin onto the skeleton. I am uncomfortable with
doing this for two reasons: The wing skin is pre-drilled so somehow I would
have to drill from the skin side through the flexible stiffeners, and
secondly I cannot imagine being able to keep the whole thing aligned.
When I built the first wing I managed to attach the stiffeners once the skin
was on the skeleton and clecoed to the ribs and spar. To do this I used
masking tape to hold the stiffeners in position working through the
lightening holes in the spar. The results were acceptable but the skin is
not as uniform as I would like it to be.
Graham Kirby
Message 35
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| Subject: | Assembling Wing Skin 601HD |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Graham,
I'm building a 601HDS, but I've yet to see a metal plane (especially the
HD wing) that has glass type skins. If the skins don't get you, the ribs
eventually will because of small little gaps that ultimately pull down
the skin and give a little wave type affect.
Only mention this in case you are trying to make your Zodiac a jet
plane. I drove myself nuts and finally realized I was building a great
simple Zodiac ;-)
Regards,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Graham Kirby [mailto:gkirby@yahoo.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Assembling Wing Skin 601HD
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
Has anyone found the secret to getting the wing skins nice and smooth,
without using .020 in place of the .016?
In the assembly manual it says to attach the crimped 'L' stiffeners to
the skin before putting the skin onto the skeleton. I am uncomfortable
with doing this for two reasons: The wing skin is pre-drilled so somehow
I would have to drill from the skin side through the flexible
stiffeners, and secondly I cannot imagine being able to keep the whole
thing aligned.
When I built the first wing I managed to attach the stiffeners once the
skin was on the skeleton and clecoed to the ribs and spar. To do this I
used masking tape to hold the stiffeners in position working through the
lightening holes in the spar. The results were acceptable but the skin
is not as uniform as I would like it to be.
Graham Kirby
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