Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:14 AM - Re: Crank case vent (Bryan Martin)
2. 12:23 AM - Re: 601XL Rear Rib Attachment (Bryan Martin)
3. 12:45 AM - Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks (Bryan Martin)
4. 06:15 AM - Re: High Density Altitude performance (Philip Polstra)
5. 06:30 AM - Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks (Rico Voss)
6. 07:42 AM - May/June Zenair Newsletter (Chuck Deiterich)
7. 07:54 AM - Re: Crank case vent (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
8. 08:05 AM - Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations (Terry Ladouceur)
9. 09:00 AM - Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks (Gary Gower)
10. 09:11 AM - Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks (Jim Frisby)
11. 09:42 AM - Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks (wizard-24@juno.com)
12. 12:39 PM - Re: Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations (b1xhku64)
13. 12:49 PM - Canopy side cover seals (Michel Therrien)
14. 01:47 PM - Re: Assembling Wing Skin 601HD (Larry McFarland)
15. 02:05 PM - Re: Canopy side cover seals (Larry McFarland)
16. 04:42 PM - Prop (Leo J. Corbalis)
17. 04:42 PM - Re: Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations (Greg Ferris)
18. 07:14 PM - Re: Canopy side cover seals (Michel Therrien)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Crank case vent |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 5/27/03 7:15 AM, Aaron at agustafson@chartermi.net wrote:
> How does Stratus or any other EA81 users vent the crankcase? Where do the
> valve cover nipples go to? How are they terminated? Any oil separator or the
> like?
> Aaron
>
On my Stratus Subaru, there is a 3/8" hose from each valve cover to a T
fitting and then to the plastic fitting at the inlet to the left carb. No
external oil separator.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Rear Rib Attachment |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 5/27/03 8:41 PM, W.R. "Gig" Giacona at wr.giacona@cox-internet.com wrote:
> How did get the main spar to say in an upright position as you attached the
> Rear Spars? This is the first thing I've come accross in the process that
> there is nothing in the construction manual to give you any idea how to do
> it. No text or photos.
>
I clamped a small bar clamp near each end and propped them up with wood
blocks. Once you get a few ribs attached, the weight keeps the spar upright.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 5/27/03 11:58 PM, ac6qj@earthlink.net at ac6qj@earthlink.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>
> Hello List,
>
> I'm about to install the VDO Fuel Level Sender into the leading
> edge fuel tanks on the XL. The VDO sender documentation indicates
> that the sender is to be installed vertically from the top of the
> fuel tank with the float arm extending out horizontally. The XL
> drawings show the sender installed horizontally into the side of
> the fuel tank.
I installed mine vertically in the top of the tank as close to the rear of
the tank as possible. There isn't much room between the tank and wing skin
so I modified the electrical connections slightly to prevent shorting to the
wing skin. I moved the lock washer on the sender terminal screw to the
bottom side of the flange and ground down the studs with a sander to get
everything as flat as possible for clearance and then glued a couple layers
of cork all around the sender to prevent the skin contacting the terminals.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: High Density Altitude performance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/21/2003 3:58:11 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> ppolstra@mindspring.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > I don't live in a high elevation (1040 MSL), but I can say that my
> > Stratus-powered CH601HDS was still climbing like a champ at 14k. Solo I
get
> > 1300+ fpm climbs, at full gross about 800 fpm. Even at 14k I was
getting
> > better than 500 fpm solo. Of course, your mileage (and climb rate) may
> > vary.
> >
>
> 500 feet per minute at 14,000 msl?????? Thats hard to believe..
>
Well, that is what I got. I was just bored flying off my 40 hours and given
that it was so much cooler up there I just kept on climbing. I don't think
it would do this at full gross.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
> drawings show the sender installed horizontally into
> the side of
> the fuel tank. This would leave the float arm
> extended vertically
> to swing like a pendulum where the float arm needs
> to move more
> like the motion of moving your arm in a jumping jack
> to properly
> translate to rotation of the sender.
> >
> Applying a 90 degree bend to the float arm would....
(Sorry if this comes twice... fat fingers hit the
"disappear" key)
I just finished dealing with this problem. Having a
flush filler neck and a top-mounted sender are
contradictory to each other.
You can grind the sender stud, nut and nylon washer
down as Bryan and others have done, but it's close --
there is the risk that the stud will short out to the
skin. I tried that but didn't like how close it was.
I plugged the hole in the top of the tank and cut a
new one into the inboard end, as Nick suggested.
HOWEVER, after bending the float arm 90 deg (actually
more than 90-- to put the float ball centered 90 from
the pivot point), I found that the weight of the ball
was barely enough to pull down the arm. I'm hoping
that fuel and vibration will ensure that it slides.
Otherwise, I'll have an endless supply of fuel...!!
Also, before cutting off the sender's stop tabs for
the swing arm, hook it up to a gauge, as I found the
gauge would go off-scale, if the stops were not there.
There's lots in the archives on this. If I had it to
do over, I might lean toward an access plate (domed,
if necessary) thru the skin. I'm getting the feeling
that these mechanical senders wont be trouble-free
--Rico, XL in KC, still trying to finish wings.
__________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | May/June Zenair Newsletter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
In the May/June Zenair Newsletter there is a memo by Chris Heintz. I sent
the following to ZAC and their answer is below my note (which I received the
next day).
> > At the bottom of Chris' Memo in the May/June Zenair Newsletter, it
> > says there is a reinforcement of the rear wing attachment for the CH
> > 701 and CH 801. Is this referring to the top channel "Z" 7F5-3Z? I
> > could not find anything else on the Zenith Web site. (I added this
> > "Z" to the top channel before I flew my 701.)
>
> Yes, this note refers to the above part.
> Nick Heintz
> Zenith Aircraft Company
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I just run mine to the lower left corner of the cowl and vent to atmosphere.
I did this to avoid having to replace the elbows after they expanded due to
be attacked by fuel.
Doesn't seem to use any more oil this way.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Bryan Martin [mailto:bryanmmartin@comcast.net]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Crank case vent
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
--> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 5/27/03 7:15 AM, Aaron at agustafson@chartermi.net wrote:
> How does Stratus or any other EA81 users vent the crankcase? Where do
> the valve cover nipples go to? How are they terminated? Any oil
> separator or the like? Aaron
>
On my Stratus Subaru, there is a 3/8" hose from each valve cover to a T
fitting and then to the plastic fitting at the inlet to the left carb. No
external oil separator.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Terry Ladouceur" <tladouce@canthaisoftware.com>
Hi Zenith builders,
I have been on this list for awhile and just poking my head in once in
awhile and the information has been extremely useful. Although I am not a
builder and have never contemplated being one, I have always wanted to own a
601.
Well I have finally purchased one today. This particular 601UL has been out
of service for quite some time and will need a little TLC to get it back
into the air. One of the things I have to replace is the Propeller and I was
wondering if I could get some recommendations from this list as to which
Propeller might be the best.
It's a Zodiac 601UL with a Rotax 912 80 HP engine. Currently it has a GSC
Wood 3 Blade Prop 68". The prop is in need of either resurfacing or
replacement. I am leaning towards replacement.
Based on your experience, which Prop in combination with the Rotax 912 80 HP
is best? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance for your help.
Terry Ladouceur
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
To prevent an electrical short in the sender, we used a plastic cap
from a jar that fitted over the sender, hold it with a little of
silicon type of cement, put some cork around it.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S
--- Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> on 5/27/03 11:58 PM, ac6qj@earthlink.net at ac6qj@earthlink.net
> wrote:
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
> >
> > Hello List,
> >
> > I'm about to install the VDO Fuel Level Sender into the leading
> > edge fuel tanks on the XL. The VDO sender documentation indicates
> > that the sender is to be installed vertically from the top of the
> > fuel tank with the float arm extending out horizontally. The XL
> > drawings show the sender installed horizontally into the side of
> > the fuel tank.
>
> I installed mine vertically in the top of the tank as close to the
> rear of
> the tank as possible. There isn't much room between the tank and wing
> skin
> so I modified the electrical connections slightly to prevent shorting
> to the
> wing skin. I moved the lock washer on the sender terminal screw to
> the
> bottom side of the flange and ground down the studs with a sander to
> get
> everything as flat as possible for clearance and then glued a couple
> layers
> of cork all around the sender to prevent the skin contacting the
> terminals.
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> Airframe construction complete.
> Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
Ray,
I made some domed covers for the top of the sending units on my 801.
Using SO aluminum, or 2024T0, you can make a wood form on a wood lathe that
has the dome shape, and a rim to clamp the edges of the cover that you don't
want to distort. Just hammer the material into the form with a rounded
rubber hammer. It worked great. I pooled some JB weld (ohm meter confirmed
it as non-concuctive) in the dome to act as an insulator in case of collapse
or denting.
Jim Frisby
Palmer, AK
N801ZA
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: VDO Fuel Sender & 601XL Fuel Tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
> If I had it to do over, I might lean toward an access plate (domed,
> if necessary) thru the skin. I'm getting the feeling
> that these mechanical senders wont be trouble-free
That's exactly what I'm doing. In fact, now that I have to add two
senders to the additional tanks (long story) after the wings are already
closed, I have to drill access holes anyway. I envision having to replace
(or adjust) the senders at some point in the future, so I think this may
be the best alternative. I haven't made the domes caps yet, but seems
like it shouldn't be that hard to do.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: b1xhku64 <mfothergill@sympatico.ca>
Hi Terry;
I had good success with a 66" 3 blade IVO in-flight adjustable when my 601 was
an HD.
Mike
UHS Spinners
Terry Ladouceur wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Terry Ladouceur" <tladouce@canthaisoftware.com>
>
> Hi Zenith builders,
>
> I have been on this list for awhile and just poking my head in once in
> awhile and the information has been extremely useful. Although I am not a
> builder and have never contemplated being one, I have always wanted to own a
> 601.
>
> Well I have finally purchased one today. This particular 601UL has been out
> of service for quite some time and will need a little TLC to get it back
> into the air. One of the things I have to replace is the Propeller and I was
> wondering if I could get some recommendations from this list as to which
> Propeller might be the best.
>
> It's a Zodiac 601UL with a Rotax 912 80 HP engine. Currently it has a GSC
> Wood 3 Blade Prop 68". The prop is in need of either resurfacing or
> replacement. I am leaning towards replacement.
>
> Based on your experience, which Prop in combination with the Rotax 912 80 HP
> is best? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance for your help.
> Terry Ladouceur
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Canopy side cover seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
This refers to the XL canopy style, parts 6-C-3-6 and
6-C-1-4.
I checked the fit of my side cover (the cover that
attached to the front end of the canopy arm) last
week. While it fits nicely, I cannot get to have a
good seal using the ZAC supplied rubber seal. How did
you (those of you who made this canopy) install it?
How should the side cover fit to get that good seal?
I wonder if a simple U shaped small rubber seal would
be better.
Thanks!
Michel
PS: I received my canopy from Todd Canopies
(http://www.kgarden.com/todd/) today. It looks great!
Todd is very pleasant to do business with. I look
forward to finishing my cowling and making that
canopy.
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Assembling Wing Skin 601HD |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Graham,
Keeping .016 material straight is quite a feat of endurance
and that's why my wings are .025. .020 would do well
but it seemed that any mishandling at all placed .016 in
jeopardy of being crunched too easily. Finger pressure
along the edges even leaves depressions. I'm just too much
a cluts to handle the thin stuff. The weight isn't a factor
if you're using more than 80 hp in the engine area. I've got
a dozen sheets of .016 that are setting against the wall never
to be used. If you put the bottom skins on last the stiffeners
are easy to add.
Good luck.
Larry McFarland - 601hds
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Assembling Wing Skin 601HD
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
>
> Has anyone found the secret to getting the wing skins nice and smooth,
> without using .020 in place of the .016?
>
> In the assembly manual it says to attach the crimped 'L' stiffeners to the
> skin before putting the skin onto the skeleton. I am uncomfortable with
> doing this for two reasons: The wing skin is pre-drilled so somehow I
would
> have to drill from the skin side through the flexible stiffeners, and
> secondly I cannot imagine being able to keep the whole thing aligned.
>
> When I built the first wing I managed to attach the stiffeners once the
skin
> was on the skeleton and clecoed to the ribs and spar. To do this I used
> masking tape to hold the stiffeners in position working through the
> lightening holes in the spar. The results were acceptable but the skin is
> not as uniform as I would like it to be.
>
> Graham Kirby
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side cover seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Michel,
I just finished that area and had to make a second set of
forward canopy rail covers. The trick was to use
an Aircraft Spruce rubber trim their number 05-01300 that is
a bit shorter in section, then inkmark the rubber overlap on the aluminum
and
bend the top edge another 10 to 15 degrees inboard. The
seal is tight and straight as a string. Pictures are if incomplete,
in my canopy segment. Also the bottom side below the slot
at the pivot pin is outside the angle and the top
portion above the slot is inside the angle. It fits more easily. Looks
like a better solution to scraped paint behind the angle.
You might be interested in my most recent entries on
the canopy flashings and unintentional plans-guidance-misinformation
on the forward center flashing in the latest entries of section 5.
Hope this helps,
Larry McFarland - 601hds at www.macsmachine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy side cover seals
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> This refers to the XL canopy style, parts 6-C-3-6 and
> 6-C-1-4.
>
> I checked the fit of my side cover (the cover that
> attached to the front end of the canopy arm) last
> week. While it fits nicely, I cannot get to have a
> good seal using the ZAC supplied rubber seal. How did
> you (those of you who made this canopy) install it?
> How should the side cover fit to get that good seal?
> I wonder if a simple U shaped small rubber seal would
> be better.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Michel
> PS: I received my canopy from Todd Canopies
> (http://www.kgarden.com/todd/) today. It looks great!
> Todd is very pleasant to do business with. I look
> forward to finishing my cowling and making that
> canopy.
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I am very happy with my WOODCOMP In-flight Adjustable prop. The prop is
carbon fiber with a foam plastic core (no wood). The setup is specific to
Rotax 912-914 series with the hollow prop shaft. It is only 2 or 3 lbs.
heavier than my GSC 3 blade prop. Contact Skyshop. You get the best
performance both in climb and cruise. Have about 100 hrs. on mine.
Leo Corbalis
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Greg Ferris" <ferret@wmtel.net>
I am happy with my 3 blade 68" Warp Drive prop on my 601HD (912UL).
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Ladouceur" <tladouce@canthaisoftware.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Zodiac 601 UL Propeller Recommendations
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Terry Ladouceur"
<tladouce@canthaisoftware.com>
>
> Hi Zenith builders,
>
> I have been on this list for awhile and just poking my head in once in
> awhile and the information has been extremely useful. Although I am not a
> builder and have never contemplated being one, I have always wanted to own
a
> 601.
>
> Well I have finally purchased one today. This particular 601UL has been
out
> of service for quite some time and will need a little TLC to get it back
> into the air. One of the things I have to replace is the Propeller and I
was
> wondering if I could get some recommendations from this list as to which
> Propeller might be the best.
>
> It's a Zodiac 601UL with a Rotax 912 80 HP engine. Currently it has a GSC
> Wood 3 Blade Prop 68". The prop is in need of either resurfacing or
> replacement. I am leaning towards replacement.
>
> Based on your experience, which Prop in combination with the Rotax 912 80
HP
> is best? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance for your help.
> Terry Ladouceur
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side cover seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Thanks Larry, I'll read everything you wrote about the
canopy in your journal.
--- Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland"
> <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Michel,
> I just finished that area and had to make a second
> set of
> forward canopy rail covers. The trick was to use
> an Aircraft Spruce rubber trim their number 05-01300
> that is
> a bit shorter in section, then inkmark the rubber
> overlap on the aluminum
> and
> bend the top edge another 10 to 15 degrees inboard.
> The
> seal is tight and straight as a string. Pictures
> are if incomplete,
> in my canopy segment. Also the bottom side below
> the slot
> at the pivot pin is outside the angle and the top
> portion above the slot is inside the angle. It fits
> more easily. Looks
> like a better solution to scraped paint behind the
> angle.
> You might be interested in my most recent entries on
> the canopy flashings and unintentional
> plans-guidance-misinformation
> on the forward center flashing in the latest entries
> of section 5.
> Hope this helps,
> Larry McFarland - 601hds at www.macsmachine.com
>
> -----
__________________________________
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