Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals (Fred or Sandy Hulen)
2. 04:56 AM - Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals (Fred or Sandy Hulen)
3. 05:26 AM - Re: XL Rudder question (Bill Howerton)
4. 06:05 AM - Sight tube (RFG842@aol.com)
5. 06:31 AM - web site (Carlos Sa)
6. 08:03 AM - Re: XL Rudder question (CLOJAN@aol.com)
7. 08:15 AM - Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
8. 09:27 AM - Re: Sight tube (George Swinford)
9. 09:32 AM - Heat shields (Lowell Metz)
10. 10:36 AM - Re: Sight tube (Leo J. Corbalis)
11. 12:39 PM - Re: Cowling fiberglass thickness (Mark A. Wood)
12. 01:22 PM - Re: Sight tube (Cdbyuma@aol.com)
13. 01:50 PM - Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals (Dave Austin)
14. 01:53 PM - Re: Expanision tank (Thilo Kind)
15. 02:04 PM - Tack Rivet... (Michael Stempf)
16. 02:06 PM - Cowling fiberglass layup method (Michel Therrien)
17. 02:09 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (Michel Therrien)
18. 02:24 PM - Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
19. 02:34 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (CLOJAN@aol.com)
20. 02:35 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
21. 02:50 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (Michael Stempf)
22. 02:50 PM - Re: Cowling fiberglass layup method (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
23. 03:14 PM - Re: Cowling fiberglass layup method (Aaron)
24. 04:19 PM - Re: Sight tube (Dr. Perry Morrison)
25. 05:19 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (ac6qj@earthlink.net)
26. 05:33 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (Dave Austin)
27. 05:49 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (Tim & Diane Shankland)
28. 05:54 PM - Re: Tack Rivet... (Pwalsh4539@aol.com)
29. 08:01 PM - Re: web site (Larry McFarland)
30. 11:16 PM - Re: Sight tube (Jim Frisby)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61@birch.net>
> I would like to know what to use for Aileron and Elevator gap seals on a
601 HDS.
++ There is nothing better than the "hinges" aileron system (no gap at all),
and as for the elevator, I purchased an additional piece of piano hinge and
installed it in what was left open after using the hinge amount provided in
the kit. The elevator hinge is now continuous, and completely free of gap.
Regarding the ailerons, I was noting the other day that it only takes a
movement of about 1/4" to 3/8" at the trailing edge to make a pretty rapid
turn.
Fred
N601LX Jabiru 3300 / 601 HDS
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61@birch.net>
> ++ Woops, my spell-checker changed a word which messed up the meaning.
There is nothing better than the "hinges" aileron system (no gap at all),
++ Was supposed to be "HINGE-LESS" aileron system.
> Fred
> N601LX Jabiru 3300 / 601 HDS
>
> do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: XL Rudder question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Joe, I also just finished my rudder this weekend, and in the process, I also
drilled an "extra" hole where I had a miss-aligned tip rib. I just simply
put in an extra A-4 rivet into it and moved on.
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: RFG842@aol.com
I'm useing a sight tube on my aircraft and currently running ground tests
using premium auto gas. The one big difficulity, you can't see the gas level
very well because the gas is either clear or has a slight yellow tinge. In
sunlight, almost impossible to see the level.
Anyone found a cure? Sure wish the gas were red.
Bob
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, Larry
Next time you update your site, could you take a look at the Wings / Splice plates
page?
I believe there is something "broken" as the page does not load...
Thanks for keeping all that info available to other builders, it is extremely
helpful!
Best regards
Carlos
CH601 HD
Tail feathers done, working on spars.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: XL Rudder question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: CLOJAN@aol.com
Joe: I would be comfortable with 5mm. On the longeron splice on the fuselage
I drilled a hole about 2mm from the edge. This worried me enough to send a
photo to ZAC and their response was to "put a rivet in it and keep building". It
is true that tolerances should be critical in aircraft design but I now have
several rivets "a little close to the edges. The ZAC kit came with lots of
extra sheet metal and I have made several pieces which I screwed up. It's all fun!
Jack Russell
Had the fuselage looking like a boat and had to dissemble to prime and
deburr.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Aileron and Elevator Gap seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I think you mean the gap UNDERNEATH the wing-aileron and elevator-tail gaps.
I don't know anyone that has doen this but it should not be hard to rivet a
piece of thin 60-61 to make a sliding seal, I guess you could squeeze some
clear slilcone grease in there to lube the slidy joint.
I have not idea if/how well it would work in terms of drag reduction.
FRank
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Turner [mailto:normsflighttraining@bigpond.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Norman Turner
--> <normsflighttraining@bigpond.com>
Hi All, Need your Help,
I would like to know what to use for Aileron and Elevator gap seals on a 601
HDS, and is there anybody out there who has done it,? and what if any
difference It made, (i.e. ) is it worth doing. Have also asked ZAC for there
advice on the subject.
Cheers Norm.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
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Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
Bob:
Try putting a white strip with diagonal black stripes behind the sight tube.
Refraction of light thru the fuel will be different than refraction thru the
empty tube so the stripes will appear distorted below the level of the fuel.
I read this and intend to try it, but haven't yet. You could try a pattern
on a strip of paper to see how it works , then replace it with something
more elegant if you like the result.
George
----- Original Message -----
From: <RFG842@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Sight tube
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: RFG842@aol.com
>
> I'm useing a sight tube on my aircraft and currently running ground tests
> using premium auto gas. The one big difficulity, you can't see the gas
level
> very well because the gas is either clear or has a slight yellow tinge.
In
> sunlight, almost impossible to see the level.
>
> Anyone found a cure? Sure wish the gas were red.
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lowell Metz" <lowellmetz@earthlink.net>
I have the 912 S sitting in the motor mount of my 701, attached the exhaust pipes
and then routed the coolant lines to the radiator. I am concerned that the
pipes are too close to the radiator hoses and may cause them to melt or deteriorate
quickly due to the heat. Has anyone added any type of heat shields between
the hoses and the pipes? Ideas and suggestions very welcome....... Thanks.
Lowell Metz 701
Florida
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I got a sheet of lines, about .10 in. black and white, from a mechanical
drawing store. Installed on a separate back piece of white styrene sheet,
very thin, that wraps around the back half of the tube to which I mounted
the sheet of lines set at a 45 degree angle. This works quite well. In
addition I have a series of red LEDs behind the back piece for night
lighting. The styrene sheet is from a model railroad hobby shop.
Leo Corbalis
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: RFG842@aol.com
>
> I'm useing a sight tube on my aircraft and currently running ground tests
> using premium auto gas. The one big difficulity, you can't see the gas
level
> very well because the gas is either clear or has a slight yellow tinge.
In
> sunlight, almost impossible to see the level.
>
> Anyone found a cure? Sure wish the gas were red.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling fiberglass thickness |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
Hello All
I have been busy for the last couple of weeks so I am just catching
up on this cowling strand. I used three 3 to 5 layers of 8oz glass.
The KR has foam so gets stiffness from that. We need to get stiffness
from the thickness of or shape of the glass. Remember that the
shape gives it much of it's stiffness, a flat section will not be
stiff where a dome will be, think of the strength of the Al you built
the rest of your plane from, it does not get strong until it is 3D.
Also someone said something about foam covered in glass. This is how
I stiffened up the bottom of my cowl where I have a long flat
section. I put a bead of the spray in foam across the bottom near the
back, trimmed it to a triangle shape with a knife (about 3/4in high)
and put two layers of glass over it. It is nice and stiff now.
As for the Al strip in the cowl for a washer, I don't know if this
really helps or not, but it made me feel better. I just put in a
strip about 1in wide made from some .016 Al I had left over. I put in
in the middle of the layers. The strip is about 1in from the edge.
Mark Wood
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
>I'm using a similar cloth (5.85 oz that they call
>6oz). I think I'll go with 4 layers and install
>stiffeners (with foam cores) if need be. Thanks to
>all!
>
>Someone mentioned (I believe it's Mark) that he
>installed an aluminum strip between two layers of
>cloth to act as washers for the attachment hardware.
>I'll like to know more about this (is this just a
>plain strip? How thick? And how many layers of
>fiberglass around the strip, for instance.
>
>Michel
>
>--- Randy Stout <r5t0ut@ev1.net> wrote:
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Stout"
>> <r5t0ut@ev1.net>
>>
>> Michel
>>
>> If I remember correctly from my KR building days,
>> the KR used 4 layers of
>> 5.85 oz BID (bi-directional cloth) on things like
>> leading edges and cowl and
>> 2 layers on other places. The BID was cut and
>> applied on the bias, or
>> diagonally, to add torsional resistance. Depending
>> on what kind of resin
>> you used, it may take many days for it to cure to
>> full strength.
>>
>> I recently made some modifications to mine. I used 4
>> layers of the BID with
>> Aeropoxy. It felt flexible for quite a while. I
>> don't think it started
>> getting real stiff until I applied the filler. If
>> you only have a flat
>> sheet, I don't think it will ever get very stiff.
>> The bends and curves add
>> to the strength and stiffness.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Randy Stout - San Antonio
>> VW powered Zodiac N282RS
>> r5t0ut@ev1.net
>> http://www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Zenith-List: Cowling fiberglass thickness
>>
>>
>> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien
>> <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> > Hello group,
>> >
>> > I made a sample piece of fiberglass yesterday and
>> I'm
>> > surprised by the end result in terms of material
>> > thickness and flexibility.
>> >
>> > The part (a sheet 12" by 20") I made varies from 3
>> to
>> > 5 layers of 6oz fiberglass material.
>> >
>> > The 3 layer portion of the sheet is very flexible
>> and
>> > is approx .032" in thickness.
>> >
>> > The 4 layer portion is still quite flexible and is
>> > approx. .040".
>> >
>> > I can't really comment on the 5-ply flexibility as
>> > that portion is too small, but thickness is around
>> > .050" (less than 1/16" of an inch).
>> >
>> > How thick should the cowling material be? I was
>> told
>> > to use between 3 and 4 layers of cloth... is this
>> what
>> > I should use? What stiffness should I expect in
>> the
>> > final result?
>> >
>> > Thanks!
>> >
> > > Michel
> >
--
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cdbyuma@aol.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
There was someone on the list a year or so ago. He rivetted a 16 thou strip
down the length of the underside gaps, making sure it overlapped enough that
it didn't get up into the gap! Also, be very careful to form the trailing
edge down somewhat. You don't want it catching on a rivet when you try to
move the control surface! He claimed 5 mph for the mod.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Expanision tank |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
Hi guys,
remember my question about the coolant overflow bottle from a few days ag?
First of all, thanks for all the answers. I started already checking out
various automotive stores for a expansion tank, such as the one suggested by
Frank.
Anzway, after talking off today for a short local flight I noticed that the
coolant temps did not drop as usual (I had to run the engine for quite some
time sitting on the ground in order to get the oil temps up. That normally
brings the coolant temps up as well. The coolant temp normally goes down
again after a few minutes in flight). After landing I removed the cowling
and found the collant overflow leaking fluid. This was the originally
coolant overflow bottle supplied by ZAC with the 912 engine. Now Im speeding
up my process of finding a better expansion tank.
Thilo Kind
----- Original Message -----
From: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Expanision tank
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Take a look at this link http://www.ramengines.com/index.html On the
home
> page is a pic of the expansion tank I'm using that I got from an autoparts
> store...Very nice design.
>
> Cool website too! This is the company now providing the stepped valve
guides
> that should hopefully stay IN the subaru heads!
>
> Frank
>
>
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf" <mstempf@earthlink.net>
All,
I am attaching the skin to right wing and I am at the section that I
need to rivet 4 tack rivets in. Now I called Zenith and Nick told me
that the tack rivets are nothing more than standard rivets that we
already use, but that I have to get a rivet puller that pulls flat
instead of curved like the ones we normally use.
I have looked everywhere and have not been able to find anything like
that. Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advanced,
Michael Stempf
601XL
Finally has a name! N-4XL
Message 16
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| Subject: | Cowling fiberglass layup method |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I spoke with a friend who built a Dragon Fly and he
just made me really concerned.
I built a plug directly on the aircraft and I cannot
remove it to apply the fiberglass. So, I need to
apply the layups directly in place (on top, sides and
underneath). My friend told me that the layups wont
stick to the underneath of the cowling.
Is this real? What layup method would work then?
The method he described to me is to lay a plastic
sheet on a table, put the fiberglass cloth layers on
the plastic and spread the epoxy. Then, close the
plastic sheet (bring the sheet over the layups and
squeeze out the extra epoxy with a squeegee. Then,
cut the plastic, remove the top one and apply the
layups with the plastic sheet on the mold (plastic
facing outward. Apparently, it is a pretty clean way
of working. But this would be too heavy to support
itself underneath the cowling.
Please help...
Thanks!
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tack Rivet... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Its just the basic, un-modified riveter head that you
must use. The A4 rivets that you have are already
made to be used with such a riveter. But you need to
countersink the hole before riveting so the head stays
flat with the sheet. I think the instruction mentions
about using a drill bit for countersinking, but you
may prefer to buy a 120 degree countersink bit.
You can find manual riveters anywhere (hardware
stores, Home Depot,...) anyone will do the job.
Michel
--- Michael Stempf <mstempf@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf"
> <mstempf@earthlink.net>
>
> All,
>
>
> I am attaching the skin to right wing and I am at
> the section that I
> need to rivet 4 tack rivets in. Now I called Zenith
> and Nick told me
> that the tack rivets are nothing more than standard
> rivets that we
> already use, but that I have to get a rivet puller
> that pulls flat
> instead of curved like the ones we normally use.
>
>
> I have looked everywhere and have not been able to
> find anything like
> that. Does anyone have any advice?
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 18
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| Subject: | Aileron and Elevator Gap seals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Wow...seems like a bargain in terms of speed Vs. time to do.
Wonder how flexible the strip is and how much it might get pushed up into
the gap as this is the high pressure area of the wing?
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Austin [mailto:daveaustin2@sprint.ca]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Aileron and Elevator Gap seals
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
There was someone on the list a year or so ago. He rivetted a 16 thou strip
down the length of the underside gaps, making sure it overlapped enough that
it didn't get up into the gap! Also, be very careful to form the trailing
edge down somewhat. You don't want it catching on a rivet when you try to
move the control surface! He claimed 5 mph for the mod. Dave Austin 601HDS
- 912
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Tack Rivet... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: CLOJAN@aol.com
Michael; Both of the rivet guns I got from zenith came with flat and curved
heads. In placing the rear upper longerons on the fuselage the flat head was
required at the gusset. I countersunk the holes by manually twisting a drill
bit in the hole and then used the flat nose on the gun. It makes a nice flat
surface rivet. Jack Russell
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
A flat rivet puller is simply the type that you buy from the hardware store.
Just a normal hand "pop" rivet gun.
Remember to countersink the skin before trying to set the rivet.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Stempf [mailto:mstempf@earthlink.net]
Subject: Zenith-List: Tack Rivet...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf"
--> <mstempf@earthlink.net>
All,
I am attaching the skin to right wing and I am at the section that I need to
rivet 4 tack rivets in. Now I called Zenith and Nick told me that the tack
rivets are nothing more than standard rivets that we already use, but that I
have to get a rivet puller that pulls flat instead of curved like the ones
we normally use.
I have looked everywhere and have not been able to find anything like that.
Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advanced,
Michael Stempf
601XL
Finally has a name! N-4XL
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Message 21
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf" <mstempf@earthlink.net>
Guys,
Thanks for all of the help (once again)! Having this type of
interaction with others is sure helpful.
I have been able to finish the top of the wing and now I am going to
turn it over and try to do the bottom, with any luck I will be finished
with it this evening.
Thanks again,
Michael
601XL
N-4XL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HINDE,FRANK
(HP-Corvallis,ex1)
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Tack Rivet...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
A flat rivet puller is simply the type that you buy from the hardware
store.
Just a normal hand "pop" rivet gun.
Remember to countersink the skin before trying to set the rivet.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Stempf [mailto:mstempf@earthlink.net]
Subject: Zenith-List: Tack Rivet...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf"
--> <mstempf@earthlink.net>
All,
I am attaching the skin to right wing and I am at the section that I
need to
rivet 4 tack rivets in. Now I called Zenith and Nick told me that the
tack
rivets are nothing more than standard rivets that we already use, but
that I
have to get a rivet puller that pulls flat instead of curved like the
ones
we normally use.
I have looked everywhere and have not been able to find anything like
that.
Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advanced,
Michael Stempf
601XL
Finally has a name! N-4XL
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| Subject: | Cowling fiberglass layup method |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I sen it done with Ceran wrap...(cling film if your English). Get a helper
to hold the assemmbly of dped meeh and plastice place while you wrap the
whole thing with the ceran wrap.
In theory subsequent layers will stick to the first layer of fiberglass mat.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Michel Therrien [mailto:mtherr@yahoo.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Cowling fiberglass layup method
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I spoke with a friend who built a Dragon Fly and he
just made me really concerned.
I built a plug directly on the aircraft and I cannot
remove it to apply the fiberglass. So, I need to
apply the layups directly in place (on top, sides and underneath). My
friend told me that the layups wont stick to the underneath of the cowling.
Is this real? What layup method would work then?
The method he described to me is to lay a plastic
sheet on a table, put the fiberglass cloth layers on
the plastic and spread the epoxy. Then, close the
plastic sheet (bring the sheet over the layups and
squeeze out the extra epoxy with a squeegee. Then,
cut the plastic, remove the top one and apply the
layups with the plastic sheet on the mold (plastic
facing outward. Apparently, it is a pretty clean way
of working. But this would be too heavy to support
itself underneath the cowling.
Please help...
Thanks!
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling fiberglass layup method |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
That's exactly the way I did it and it worked great. I used a foam roller
that I made from water pipe insulation. 30 of them per 5' piece. Lots
cheaper than buying the real ones! I wet out before each layer and then
rolled out all the air. You have to try not to get too much resin on cause
it adds weight fast. My completed cowl weighs 9 lbs. w/ one coat of micro.
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Cowling fiberglass layup method
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> My friend told me that the layups wont
> stick to the underneath of the cowling.
>
> Is this real? What layup method would work then?
>
> The method he described to me is to lay a plastic
> sheet on a table, put the fiberglass cloth layers on
> the plastic and spread the epoxy. Then, close the
> plastic sheet (bring the sheet over the layups and
> squeeze out the extra epoxy with a squeegee. Then,
> cut the plastic, remove the top one and apply the
> layups with the plastic sheet on the mold (plastic
> facing outward. Apparently, it is a pretty clean way
> of working. But this would be too heavy to support
> itself underneath the cowling.
>
Message 24
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <perrymorrison@yahoo.com>
I'd always planned to put a red plastic bead in the sight tube- small enough not
to get jammed. I also planned to put "restrictors" in both ends of the line
so the bead would be trapped and the inevitable fuel slosh and movement
would be reduced.
Would this work?
Perry morrison
RFG842@aol.com wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: RFG842@aol.com
I'm useing a sight tube on my aircraft and currently running ground tests
using premium auto gas. The one big difficulity, you can't see the gas level
very well because the gas is either clear or has a slight yellow tinge. In
sunlight, almost impossible to see the level.
Anyone found a cure? Sure wish the gas were red.
Bob
__________________________
Dr. Perry Morrison
Morrison Associates Pty Ltd
+61 08 89 88 4617
0408892638
perrymorrison@yahoo.com
__________________________
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Tack Rivet... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
Sears carries what you need in the tool department - off the shelf.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
================================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL builder #4939, Jabiru 3300
Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Under Construction
================================================================================
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Tack Rivet... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
If you drill a hole in a piece of steel (a large washer was good for me) the
same size as the rivet mandrel, and slip it between the rivet head and the
rivet puller, it will give you a good countersunk flat surface.
Save some money too..
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Tack Rivet... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
If you need to put in a few countersunk rivets with your special Zenith
puller just drill a hole in a small piece of metal (about 1/8 inch)
steel or aluminum) and put the rivet tail through the hole then into the
rivet puller. Pull away.
Tim Shankland
Michael Stempf wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf" <mstempf@earthlink.net>
>
>Guys,
>
>Thanks for all of the help (once again)! Having this type of
>interaction with others is sure helpful.
>
>I have been able to finish the top of the wing and now I am going to
>turn it over and try to do the bottom, with any luck I will be finished
>with it this evening.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Michael
>601XL
>N-4XL
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HINDE,FRANK
>(HP-Corvallis,ex1)
>To: 'zenith-list@matronics.com'
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Tack Rivet...
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>A flat rivet puller is simply the type that you buy from the hardware
>store.
>
>Just a normal hand "pop" rivet gun.
>
>Remember to countersink the skin before trying to set the rivet.
>
>Frank
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Stempf [mailto:mstempf@earthlink.net]
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Tack Rivet...
>
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael Stempf"
>--> <mstempf@earthlink.net>
>
>All,
>
>
>I am attaching the skin to right wing and I am at the section that I
>need to
>rivet 4 tack rivets in. Now I called Zenith and Nick told me that the
>tack
>rivets are nothing more than standard rivets that we already use, but
>that I
>have to get a rivet puller that pulls flat instead of curved like the
>ones
>we normally use.
>
>
>I have looked everywhere and have not been able to find anything like
>that.
>Does anyone have any advice?
>
>
>Thanks in advanced,
>
>
>Michael Stempf
>
>601XL
>
>Finally has a name! N-4XL
>
>
>advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Tack Rivet... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Pwalsh4539@aol.com
Just purchase a cheap riveter from walmart....it should have the proper heads.
Message 29
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Carlos,
Thanks for the heads up, the page pulls at home,
so I'll try it from my worksite.
Thanks,
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: web site
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, Larry
>
>
> Next time you update your site, could you take a look at the Wings /
Splice plates
> page?
>
> I believe there is something "broken" as the page does not load...
>
> Thanks for keeping all that info available to other builders, it is
extremely
> helpful!
>
>
> Best regards
>
> Carlos
> CH601 HD
> Tail feathers done, working on spars.
>
>
Message 30
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
I wonder if you could float a small ball in the tube, in the manner of
"floating ball" antifreeze testers.
>From: RFG842@aol.com
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Sight tube
>Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 09:04:33 EDT
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: RFG842@aol.com
>
>I'm useing a sight tube on my aircraft and currently running ground tests
>using premium auto gas. The one big difficulity, you can't see the gas
>level
>very well because the gas is either clear or has a slight yellow tinge. In
>sunlight, almost impossible to see the level.
>
>Anyone found a cure? Sure wish the gas were red.
>
>Bob
>
>
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