Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:56 AM - Re: 701SP Fuel and wiring (Ed Kramer)
     2. 05:58 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Don Walker)
     3. 06:12 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (The Meiste's)
     4. 06:14 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (The Meiste's)
     5. 06:16 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (The Meiste's)
     6. 06:21 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Don Walker)
     7. 06:22 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (The Meiste's)
     8. 06:27 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Don Walker)
     9. 06:39 AM - Re: Removable Wing Baggage Compartment Tanks (Dr. Perry Morrison)
    10. 06:50 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (The Meiste's)
    11. 06:57 AM - Re: Aluminum 6061 (Thilo Kind)
    12. 06:57 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Jeff Small)
    13. 06:59 AM - Re: 701SP Fuel and wiring (Ken Szewc)
    14. 07:02 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Thilo Kind)
    15. 07:27 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Benford2@aol.com)
    16. 07:27 AM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Don Walker)
    17. 07:32 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Don Walker)
    18. 07:35 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Benford2@aol.com)
    19. 08:47 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Don Honabach)
    20. 09:33 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Bryan Martin)
    21. 09:46 AM - Re: silicon carbide (Bryan Martin)
    22. 10:31 AM - Re: Fw: cooling (Don Walker)
    23. 11:53 AM - Instrument panel labels (George Swinford)
    24. 12:09 PM - Re: Instrument panel labels (Don Honabach)
    25. 01:24 PM - Re: Fw: cooling (David & Maria Lumgair)
    26. 01:58 PM - 3/4" x 3/4" x .093" extrusion (Carlos Sa)
    27. 02:04 PM - Re: 3/4" x 3/4" x .093" extrusion (Michel Therrien)
    28. 02:07 PM - Re: 3/4" x 3/4" x .093" extrusion (MJBTOL@aol.com)
    29. 02:11 PM - Re: Instrument panel labels (Michel Therrien)
    30. 02:52 PM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Bill Morelli)
    31. 02:53 PM - Re: Instrument panel labels (Scott Laughlin)
    32. 04:13 PM - Follow Up - Terminals/Crimpers... (Don Honabach)
    33. 04:43 PM - Re: Follow Up - Terminals/Crimpers... (Don Honabach)
    34. 05:55 PM - Re: Instrument panel labels (Michel Therrien)
    35. 06:08 PM - Re: Instrument panel labels (George Swinford)
    36. 06:58 PM - Re: Stratus cooling data (Don Walker)
    37. 07:19 PM - Fw: Fw: cooling (Don Walker)
    38. 07:19 PM - Re: Stratus cooling data (The Meiste's)
    39. 08:21 PM - Re: Fw: cooling (Don Honabach)
    40. 10:28 PM - While you were sleeping.... (Jon Croke)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: 701SP Fuel and wiring | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed Kramer" <edair701@adelphia.net>
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ken Szewc" <szewc@cdsnet.net>
      >
      > I am building the hardest wing (the first one) and the manual and drawings
      are not clear on how or where to run the fuel and wires out of the wing. I
      have nav/strobe lights, extra wing tanks, and will have folding wing option.
      > So do any of you have advise of where the wires and fuel line leave the
      wing and how much should I leave on to get to the next fitting or connector?
      > Are connectors usually located at the wing so that it can be removed if
      needed?
      
          Ken,
       The construction manual shows a picture of the wires running through the
      wing. I drilled out the machining holes at the rear of the rear ribs &
      inserted rubber grommets & ran the wires through them.  The wires exit
      through rib # 1 & then through the root rib. I think about 6-feet of extra
      wire will be enough. The root skin only gets clecoed on for now so there
      will be access to the fuel line & wires when the wing gets bolted on.
      
      Ed Kramer
      West Seneca, NY
      CH 701: Left wing & rudder complete. Right wing 90%.
      edair701@adelphia.net
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 07:58:51 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      I have been running a 70% water and 30% antifreeze solution for two summers now,
      but my temps never exceed 220 on the heads in my Ea-81. This is not a recommendation,
      just a report. Of course the idea is for better heat transfer. DonW
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Dietrich Ulrich
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 12:46 AM
        Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: Dietrich Ulrich <ulrichd@shaw.ca>
      
        Be aware you lower the water boiling temperature by lowering the
        Antifreeze levels. You get better heat transfer but increase water
        pressure, when the water starts boiling you're out of luck for cooling.
        I understand that 50/50 is a save number for the EA-81.
        Dietrich
      
        -----Original Message-----
        From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
        [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Austin
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
      
        Re overheating etc.. for what it's worth..
        What coolant mixture are you using?  I used the 80% recommended in the
        Rotax
        manual and had bad problems.  Then an old RR Merlin mechanic saidto
        me,"change that to 50/50".  The problem disappeared for ever!  The heat
        transferance tables tell you that as well.
        Dave Austin  601HDS - 912
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
      > Where is your radiator? If you don't have a heater core on the noncooled
      circuit, it will bring it down 10 to 15 degrees.
      >     NOW, what do you make of this. My engine runs 205 to 208 in 80 degrees
      and runs the same in 92 degrees ambient temp. What does that mean.  Don
      Walker HDS
      
      
      Don,
      My rad is in the standard ZAC location just behind the muffler, and angled
      to the max adjustment allowed by the mounting brackets (and no heater core).
      I also sealed off all sides and end with foam as per Bill M.
      recommendations.
      As for the 205 - 208 reading .... I'd take that any day & be happy!
      Thanks,
      
      Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
      
      > What coolant mixture are you using?
      
      Dave,
      Yes, I'm using a 50 / 50 mix of Prestone & distilled water.
      
      Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
      
      > The change in mixture is easy to accomplish.  take off the top of the
      carb,
      > remove the diaphragm with the main jet attached.  Remove the screw in the
      > tube and the jet will come out.  Take off the tiny clip (be careful and
      > don't drop it!) and move it down a notch to make the mixture more rich.
      > Re-assemble.
      >
      > John Karnes
      > Port Orchard, WA
      
      Thanks for the advice John!
      
      do not achieve
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 08:21:04 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      Adding the heater core will surely bring it down for you, Kelly, 10 to fifteen
      degrees. There are simple ways to do that.  Don
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: The Meiste's
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:14 AM
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
        > Where is your radiator? If you don't have a heater core on the noncooled
        circuit, it will bring it down 10 to 15 degrees.
        >     NOW, what do you make of this. My engine runs 205 to 208 in 80 degrees
        and runs the same in 92 degrees ambient temp. What does that mean.  Don
        Walker HDS
      
      
        Don,
        My rad is in the standard ZAC location just behind the muffler, and angled
        to the max adjustment allowed by the mounting brackets (and no heater core).
        I also sealed off all sides and end with foam as per Bill M.
        recommendations.
        As for the 205 - 208 reading .... I'd take that any day & be happy!
        Thanks,
      
        Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
      > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
      >
      > the cure was to slow the water  down
      >
      > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
      >
      >
      > end of our problem  2 years ago
      >
      >
      >  jack lewis
      >   celista bc
      >   canada
      
      
      Jack,
      I've also heard this theory but wasn't sure about it?
      I do run the standard ZAC supplied thermostat & rad cap. I was thinking of
      possibly adding a restrictor of some type in the rad hoses to slightly add
      to the restriction of the thermostat to see if that would help or hurt
      things.
      Thanks for the info,
      
      Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 08:27:52 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's was this effective
      with?  don
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: The Meiste's
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
        > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
        >
        > the cure was to slow the water  down
        >
        > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
        >
        >
        > end of our problem  2 years ago
        >
        >
        >  jack lewis
        >   celista bc
        >   canada
      
      
        Jack,
        I've also heard this theory but wasn't sure about it?
        I do run the standard ZAC supplied thermostat & rad cap. I was thinking of
        possibly adding a restrictor of some type in the rad hoses to slightly add
        to the restriction of the thermostat to see if that would help or hurt
        things.
        Thanks for the info,
      
        Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Removable Wing Baggage Compartment Tanks | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <perrymorrison@yahoo.com>
      
      I've modified my lockers to be either tanks or baggage space. In fact, I can pull
      the tank
      out in 5 secs and go get gas. The tank itself is a boat fuel tank of the right
      dimensions.
      Rather than get the very expensive ZAC tanks and fix them to the main spar and
      rib, we reinforced the locker floor with thin bar and put "panelrib" the stuff
      you
      see on the side of caravans/RVs. That way no holes pierced the bottom wing skin.
      The tank is held in by a single bungie cord. The floor of the locker is so strong
      you could stand in it (yes, I know the weight limitations) and the added weight
      of
      the mod is minimal. I'll try to take some photos and mail them.
      
      Perry Morrison
      
      Terry Ladouceur <tladouce@canthaisoftware.com> wrote:
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Terry Ladouceur" 
      
      Hi List,
      
      I purchased a Zodiac 601UL that has not been flying since December 1994.
      After thorough inspections and some needed work, I am happy to say it is
      back in the air this week for testing and so far flies like a dream.
      
      What a joy to fly this plane. I have always wanted to own a Zodiac 601 and I
      am so excited that it has finally happened.
      
      Anyways to the point of my message. I would like to add Wing Baggage
      Compartment Fuel Tanks to this plane. I know there are kits from Zenair, but
      has anyone used a different method that would allow for removal of the tanks
      when on short local type of flights?
      
      Any suggestions and/or pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
      Terry Ladouceur, MCT, MCSE, MCSD, MCDBA, CNA, A+
      Can-Thai Software Solutions Incorporated
      605 Manly Street
      Midland, Ontario
      Canada L4R 3G4
      1-705-527-1717
      www.canthaisoftware.com
      
      
      __________________________ 
      Dr. Perry Morrison 
      Morrison Associates Pty Ltd 
      +61 08 89 88 4617 
      0408892638 
      perrymorrison@yahoo.com 
      __________________________
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
      > Adding the heater core will surely bring it down for you, Kelly, 10 to
      fifteen degrees. There are simple ways to do that.
      Don
      
      
      This is probably correct Don. But I just wish ZAC would supply the proper
      size rad for the 100 HP Stratus installation and us Stratus guys wouldn't be
      having this problem.
      They appear to be supplying us with the same rad they use in their 80 HP
      Rotax installation with is probably OK for them. But add on that additional
      20% HP, and the heat that goes with it and your pushing the limit to keep
      things cool.
      I honestly believe the best cure for a Stratus powered 601 is trashing the
      ZAC rad & purchasing a larger volume unit.
      I hate flying looking at my temp gages instead of out of that nice canopy!
      
      Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Aluminum 6061 | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
      
      Yes - I need to redo my wing fairing skins, since they are dented.
      
      Thilo Kind
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <Ramperf@aol.com>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Aluminum 6061
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Ramperf@aol.com
      > 
      > are you going to bend it?
      > Ron
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 09:58:22 -0400
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
      
      
        The change in mixture is easy to accomplish.  take off the top of the carb,
        remove the diaphragm with the main jet attached.  Remove the screw in the
        tube and the jet will come out.  Take off the tiny clip (be careful and
        don't drop it!) and move it down a notch to make the mixture more rich.
        Re-assemble.
      
        John,
      
        Might you mean the "jet needle" rather than the jet?   And when fitting the rubber
      diaphragm back on, look for and align a small tab with a recess in the carb
      body.
      
        As for "rich looking" plugs...
      
        The jabiruengines list threw this around for a while and the Jab engine folks
      told us than you can't depend on blackened plugs to indicate a rich mixture.
      Even a few minutes at idle (as when taxiing back the ramp) will blacken the plugs.
      If you want a more accurate "read" off the plugs you've got to chop the
      engine while at full throttle.  Anyone for a glider?
      
        Kelly, with oil temps that high you might be looking at a remote oil cooler with
      dedicated NACA vent and duct work.
      
        j
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: 701SP Fuel and wiring | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ken Szewc" <szewc@cdsnet.net>
      
      That's fine for access to the standard tank, but I have an extended tank
      also. That needs to be connected before I rivet the top skin down. I have
      already done that and run the fuel line through grommets just behind the
      tanks.
      
      It would still be helpful to know the general layout of the components in
      the relationship to the fuselage placement. How much extra will I need extra
      to fold the wings back?
      
      What have other people with extended tanks done? Did you install a separate
      shut off for the extended tanks?
      
      Ken
      
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Ed Kramer" <edair701@adelphia.net>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701SP Fuel and wiring
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed Kramer" <edair701@adelphia.net>
      >
      > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ken Szewc" <szewc@cdsnet.net>
      > >
      > > I am building the hardest wing (the first one) and the manual and
      drawings
      > are not clear on how or where to run the fuel and wires out of the wing. I
      > have nav/strobe lights, extra wing tanks, and will have folding wing
      option.
      > > So do any of you have advise of where the wires and fuel line leave the
      > wing and how much should I leave on to get to the next fitting or
      connector?
      > > Are connectors usually located at the wing so that it can be removed if
      > needed?
      >
      >     Ken,
      >  The construction manual shows a picture of the wires running through the
      > wing. I drilled out the machining holes at the rear of the rear ribs &
      > inserted rubber grommets & ran the wires through them.  The wires exit
      > through rib # 1 & then through the root rib. I think about 6-feet of extra
      > wire will be enough. The root skin only gets clecoed on for now so there
      > will be access to the fuel line & wires when the wing gets bolted on.
      >
      > Ed Kramer
      > West Seneca, NY
      > CH 701: Left wing & rudder complete. Right wing 90%.
      > edair701@adelphia.net
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
      
      The rad supplied by ZAC is way larger than the original radiator for the
      Rotax 912, so I believe it should be sufficient for the Stratus as well.
      
      Thilo Kind
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      >
      > > Adding the heater core will surely bring it down for you, Kelly, 10 to
      > fifteen degrees. There are simple ways to do that.
      > Don
      >
      >
      > This is probably correct Don. But I just wish ZAC would supply the proper
      > size rad for the 100 HP Stratus installation and us Stratus guys wouldn't
      be
      > having this problem.
      > They appear to be supplying us with the same rad they use in their 80 HP
      > Rotax installation with is probably OK for them. But add on that
      additional
      > 20% HP, and the heat that goes with it and your pushing the limit to keep
      > things cool.
      > I honestly believe the best cure for a Stratus powered 601 is trashing the
      > ZAC rad & purchasing a larger volume unit.
      > I hate flying looking at my temp gages instead of out of that nice canopy!
      >
      > Kelly
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 15
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
      In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
      dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
      > 
      > 
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      > 
      > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's was 
      > this effective with?  don
      >   ----- Original Message -----
      >   From: The Meiste's
      >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
      >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      > 
      > 
      >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      > 
      >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
      >   >
      >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
      >   >
      >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
      >   >
      >   >
      >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
      >   >
      >   >
      >   >  jack lewis
      >   >   celista bc
      >   >   canada
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the surfaces of the 
      engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks and copper
      
      / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat transfer. 
      On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a little 
      cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am running an 
      aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on this beast
      is 
      aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some custom 
      aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum motor / rad
      
      combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been explained to me
      
      that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor /rads / coolant
      
      lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it takes 15 to 
      25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of radiators 
      does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper fins? Plastic
      
      tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      
      Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 09:27:59 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      Know just what you mean, I am determined to find a solution. Yes iam.
      I am determined to find a solution.  D   do not archive
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: The Meiste's
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:52 AM
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
        > Adding the heater core will surely bring it down for you, Kelly, 10 to
        fifteen degrees. There are simple ways to do that.
        Don
      
      
        This is probably correct Don. But I just wish ZAC would supply the proper
        size rad for the 100 HP Stratus installation and us Stratus guys wouldn't be
        having this problem.
        They appear to be supplying us with the same rad they use in their 80 HP
        Rotax installation with is probably OK for them. But add on that additional
        20% HP, and the heat that goes with it and your pushing the limit to keep
        things cool.
        I honestly believe the best cure for a Stratus powered 601 is trashing the
        ZAC rad & purchasing a larger volume unit.
        I hate flying looking at my temp gages instead of out of that nice canopy!
      
        Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 17
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  | 
      
      
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 09:31:21 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      All aluminum.
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Benford2@aol.com
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
        In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
        dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
        >
        >
        > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
        >
        > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's was
        > this effective with?  don
        >   ----- Original Message -----
        >   From: The Meiste's
        >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
        >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
        >
        >
        >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
        >
        >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
        >   >
        >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
        >   >
        >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
        >   >
        >   >
        >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
        >   >
        >   >
        >   >  jack lewis
        >   >   celista bc
        >   >   canada
        >
        >
        >
      
        The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the surfaces of the
        engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks and copper
        / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat transfer.
        On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a little
        cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am running an
        aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on this beast
      is
        aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some custom
        aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum motor / rad
        combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been explained to me
        that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor /rads / coolant
        lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it takes 15 to
        25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of radiators
        does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper fins? Plastic
        tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      
        Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 18
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
      In a message dated 6/28/2003 8:32:58 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
      dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
      > 
      > All aluminum.
      >   ----- Original Message -----
      >   From: Benford2@aol.com
      >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
      >   Subject: Re: Zenith
      
      What is the dimensions of it. Height, width, and most importantly the 
      thickness of the fins???
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 19
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
      It sounds to me that what needs to happen is some sort of analysis that
      finds the best heat transfer rate versus the coolant flow rate. I highly
      doubt that us Subaru owners that purchased firewall forward kits, etc.
      bought anything that was engineered. My guess is that it was slapped
      together and it worked for someone so it was sold to us :o
      
      If any one has any ideas for how to setup a test rig, I'd be more than
      happy to participate.
      
      Regards,
      Don Honabach
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com] 
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      All aluminum.
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Benford2@aol.com
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
        In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
        dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
        >
        >
        > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
        >
        > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's
      was
        > this effective with?  don
        >   ----- Original Message -----
        >   From: The Meiste's
        >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
        >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
        >
        >
        >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's"
      <meiste@essex1.com>
        >
        >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
        >   >
        >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
        >   >
        >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
        >   >
        >   >
        >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
        >   >
        >   >
        >   >  jack lewis
        >   >   celista bc
        >   >   canada
        >
        >
        >
      
        The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the surfaces
      of the
        engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks
      and copper
        / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat
      transfer.
        On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a
      little
        cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am
      running an
        aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on
      this beast is
        aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some
      custom
        aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum
      motor / rad
        combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been
      explained to me
        that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor /rads
      / coolant
        lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it takes
      15 to
        25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of
      radiators
        does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper
      fins? Plastic
        tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      
        Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      
      
      direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 20
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
      
      on 6/28/03 10:34 AM, Benford2@aol.com at Benford2@aol.com wrote:
      
      >> 
      >> All aluminum.
      >>   ----- Original Message -----
      >>   From: Benford2@aol.com
      >>   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >>   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
      >>   Subject: Re: Zenith
      > 
      > What is the dimensions of it. Height, width, and most importantly the
      > thickness of the fins???
      > 
      
      The radiator supplied to me from ZAC is for a Volkswagen Fox. It has polymer
      end tanks with all aluminum tubes and fins. As I recall, the radiating area
      is about 13" by 19".
      
      
      -- 
      Bryan Martin
      N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
      Airframe construction complete.
      Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
      do not archive.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 21
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: silicon carbide | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
      
      on 6/23/03 5:26 PM, Flydog1966@aol.com at Flydog1966@aol.com wrote:
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
      > 
      > Thanks for the reply about abrasives. But is the "carbide" an "iron oxide"?
      > I'm guessing its some form of carbon. I cant figure out how to work those
      > archives but I'll check the old newsletters for that chart.
      >                           Thanks again
      >                             Phil
      
      
      Silicon carbide is a compound of silicon and carbon. The problem here is
      probably with the carbon. Carbon and aluminum don't play well together. This
      is the reason you shouldn't use a "lead" pencil to mark aluminum.
      
      
      -- 
      Bryan Martin
      N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
      Airframe construction complete.
      Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
      do not archive.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 22
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  | 
      
      
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 12:30:58 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      I am meeting  at 2:00 pm today with a pilot and engineer who has four aircraft,
      one of which is a soob powered gyro. He has volunteered to hook probes here and
      there on my HDS in order to determine if it is a flow problem or otherwise.
      I'll let ya know of any significant results as well as his procedure.   Don W
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Don Honabach
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:46 AM
        Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
        It sounds to me that what needs to happen is some sort of analysis that
        finds the best heat transfer rate versus the coolant flow rate. I highly
        doubt that us Subaru owners that purchased firewall forward kits, etc.
        bought anything that was engineered. My guess is that it was slapped
        together and it worked for someone so it was sold to us :o
      
        If any one has any ideas for how to setup a test rig, I'd be more than
        happy to participate.
      
        Regards,
        Don Honabach
      
      
        -----Original Message-----
        From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com]
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
        All aluminum.
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Benford2@aol.com
          To: zenith-list@matronics.com
          Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
          Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
          --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
          In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
          dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
          >
          >
          > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
          >
          > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's
        was
          > this effective with?  don
          >   ----- Original Message -----
          >   From: The Meiste's
          >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
          >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
          >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
          >
          >
          >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's"
        <meiste@essex1.com>
          >
          >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
          >   >
          >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
          >   >
          >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
          >   >
          >   >
          >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
          >   >
          >   >
          >   >  jack lewis
          >   >   celista bc
          >   >   canada
          >
          >
          >
      
          The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the surfaces
        of the
          engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks
        and copper
          / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat
        transfer.
          On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a
        little
          cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am
        running an
          aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on
        this beast is
          aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some
        custom
          aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum
        motor / rad
          combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been
        explained to me
          that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor /rads
        / coolant
          lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it takes
        15 to
          25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of
        radiators
          does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper
        fins? Plastic
          tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      
          Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      
      
        direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 23
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Instrument panel labels | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
      
      I am looking for a neat way to label the switches and circuit breakers on my instrument
      panel. The panel will be finished with a flat tan paint. Black lettering
      on the tan may not show up well. Suggestions appreciated.
      
      George Swinford
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 24
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Instrument panel labels | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
      George,
      
      You might want to take a look at www.frontpanelexpress.com. If your
      switches are lined up, you could put an overlay on with stencil'd
      lettering.
      
      Don Honabach
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: George Swinford [mailto:grs-pms@attbi.com] 
      Subject: Zenith-List: Instrument panel labels
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
      
      I am looking for a neat way to label the switches and circuit breakers
      on my instrument panel. The panel will be finished with a flat tan
      paint. Black lettering on the tan may not show up well. Suggestions
      appreciated.
      
      George Swinford
      
      
      direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 25
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
      
      We used to install a PVC Ball Valve in race cars at the return to the
      radiator to slow coolant flow for testing if we were having problems,  they
      are cheap at the hardware store.  We'd pull the top radiator hose - clamp
      the valve in with a piece of scrap hose connecting it to the radiator.  THIS
      WAS FOR TESTING ONLY - then if we could get an improvement by restricting
      flow with the ball valve (PLEASE NOTE - RESTRICTING - NOT SHUTTING DOWN -
      YOU DON'T NEED TO CLOSE IT MUCH AT ALL!) we would remove it and buy special
      inserts that go on the thermostat housing.  - They are available in
      different sizes and I think JEGS carries them.  ---  Hope that helps you
      guys...   Dave
      
      
      do not archive
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      >
      > I am meeting  at 2:00 pm today with a pilot and engineer who has four
      aircraft, one of which is a soob powered gyro. He has volunteered to hook
      probes here and there on my HDS in order to determine if it is a flow
      problem or otherwise. I'll let ya know of any significant results as well as
      his procedure.   Don W
      >   ----- Original Message -----
      >   From: Don Honabach
      >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:46 AM
      >   Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      >
      >
      >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      >
      >   It sounds to me that what needs to happen is some sort of analysis that
      >   finds the best heat transfer rate versus the coolant flow rate. I highly
      >   doubt that us Subaru owners that purchased firewall forward kits, etc.
      >   bought anything that was engineered. My guess is that it was slapped
      >   together and it worked for someone so it was sold to us :o
      >
      >   If any one has any ideas for how to setup a test rig, I'd be more than
      >   happy to participate.
      >
      >   Regards,
      >   Don Honabach
      >
      >
      >   -----Original Message-----
      >   From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com]
      >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      >
      >
      >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      >
      >   All aluminum.
      >     ----- Original Message -----
      >     From: Benford2@aol.com
      >     To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >     Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
      >     Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      >
      >
      >     --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      >
      >     In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
      >     dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      >
      >
      >     >
      >     >
      >     > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      >     >
      >     > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's
      >   was
      >     > this effective with?  don
      >     >   ----- Original Message -----
      >     >   From: The Meiste's
      >     >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >     >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
      >     >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      >     >
      >     >
      >     >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's"
      >   <meiste@essex1.com>
      >     >
      >     >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
      >     >   >
      >     >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
      >     >   >
      >     >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
      >     >   >
      >     >   >
      >     >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
      >     >   >
      >     >   >
      >     >   >  jack lewis
      >     >   >   celista bc
      >     >   >   canada
      >     >
      >     >
      >     >
      >
      >     The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the surfaces
      >   of the
      >     engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks
      >   and copper
      >     / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat
      >   transfer.
      >     On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a
      >   little
      >     cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am
      >   running an
      >     aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on
      >   this beast is
      >     aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some
      >   custom
      >     aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum
      >   motor / rad
      >     combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been
      >   explained to me
      >     that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor /rads
      >   / coolant
      >     lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it takes
      >   15 to
      >     25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of
      >   radiators
      >     does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper
      >   fins? Plastic
      >     tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      >
      >     Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      >
      >
      >   direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 26
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | 3/4" x 3/4" x .093" extrusion | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
      
      Hello, listers
      
      
      Can you tell me if the angle ("L") extrusion with dimensions above is a hard to
      find
      item (i.e., harder than the average)?
      
      I have a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" (.125") which I used for the ruder hinge,
      and I
      am wondering if it was a mistake or a decision based on availability of the .093"
      material.
      Oh, if I only had a brain - well, memory would be a nice start... :o)
      
      Cheers
      
      Carlos
      CH601-HD, plans
      Tail feathers done, wing spars more than half way there.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 27
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: 3/4" x 3/4" x .093" extrusion | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      
      As you said, the .093" thickness is hard to find.  I
      followed the advise of several plans builders and used
      .125" extrusions.
      
      Michel
      
      --- Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com> wrote:
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa
      > <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
      > 
      > Hello, listers
      > 
      > 
      > Can you tell me if the angle ("L") extrusion with
      > dimensions above is a hard to find
      > item (i.e., harder than the average)?
      > 
      > I have a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" (.125") which I
      > used for the ruder hinge, and I
      > am wondering if it was a mistake or a decision based
      > on availability of the .093"
      > material.
      > Oh, if I only had a brain - well, memory would be a
      > nice start... :o)
      > 
      > Cheers
      > 
      > Carlos
      > CH601-HD, plans
      > Tail feathers done, wing spars more than half way
      > there.
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > latest messages.
      > List members.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
      > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      =====
      ----------------------------
      Michel Therrien CH601-HD
        http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
        http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
        http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
      
      __________________________________
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 28
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: 3/4" x 3/4" x .093" extrusion | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: MJBTOL@aol.com
      
      Carlos,
       I have tried to find the .093 angle with no luck and I work for an aluminum 
      supplier. None of our vendors stock it, so I believe it is hard to come by. I 
      know of other builders using .125 and so am I. A little harder to bend, but I 
      think the weight penalty is not that much.
                                          Mike (601 plans built # 6-3756)
                                              4 years and 50%
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 29
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Instrument panel labels | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      
      I plan on doing like shown on this page:
      http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel2.html
      
      Michel
      
      --- George Swinford <grs-pms@attbi.com> wrote:
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
      > <grs-pms@attbi.com>
      > 
      > I am looking for a neat way to label the switches
      > and circuit breakers on my instrument panel. The
      > panel will be finished with a flat tan paint. Black
      > lettering on the tan may not show up well.
      > Suggestions appreciated.
      > 
      > George Swinford
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > latest messages.
      > List members.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
      > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      =====
      ----------------------------
      Michel Therrien CH601-HD
        http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
        http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
        http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
      
      __________________________________
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 30
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli <billvt@together.net>
      
      I also do not have any cooling problems. I just finished a flight with the 
      ambient temp at 96 deg. My oil gets to 220 and water stays at 210. These 
      temps are typical for me during the summer months. In winter of course, 
      they are lower.
      
      I do have a heater core for my cabin heat and I think that extra radiator 
      area makes a difference.
      
      Regards,
      Bill     (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 254.3 flight hrs. - 365 
      landings, 1 ON ICE!!)
      web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
      
      
      At 09:19 PM 6/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
      >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      >
      >Kelly,
      >Where is your radiator? If you don't have a heater core on the noncooled 
      >circuit, it will bring it down 10 to 15 degrees.
      >     NOW, what do you make of this. My engine runs 205 to 208 in 80 
      > degrees and runs the same in 92 degrees ambient temp. What does that 
      > mean.  Don Walker HDS
      >   ----- Original Message -----
      >   From: The Meiste's
      >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
      >   Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 8:49 PM
      >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      >
      >
      >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      >
      >    make the mixture rich enough (check by looking at the spark plugs),
      >
      >    John Karnes
      >    Port Orchard, WA
      >
      >
      >   John or anyone else with this Bing CV carb, how difficult is this to do?
      >   Is it just a matter of popping the top off the carbs & pulling out the
      >   needle & changing the clip location (down one notch), then reassembling the
      >   carbs.
      >   Will by making this needle setting richer lower both water & oil temps, or
      >   just the water temp?
      >   My Stratus cruising at 4,000 RPM on a 80 degree day will hit 220 on the
      >   water, & 240 on the oil pretty fast.
      >   Hoping this may help matters some .... thanks,
      >
      >   Kelly Meiste
      >   601 HD Stratus (58 hrs)
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 31
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Instrument panel labels | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
      
      Michel:
      
      I would go one step further.  If you lay out your panel, paint it, then 
      install the stickers before installing any instruments, you can spray a 
      clear coat over the stickers and they won't peel off.  Otherwise you will be 
      unhappy with the results after a while.  I have had good luck with this 
      "spray-over" application before and it looks professional.  Clear coat 
      lacquer dries fast and is very shiny, but others would work.
      
      Post pictures on your website of what you do.  I would like to see it.
      
      Scott Laughlin
      www.cooknwithgas.com
      
      
      ----Original Message Follows----
      From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Instrument panel labels
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      
      I plan on doing like shown on this page:
      http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel2.html
      
      Michel
      
      --- George Swinford <grs-pms@attbi.com> wrote:
       > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
       > <grs-pms@attbi.com>
       >
       > I am looking for a neat way to label the switches
       > and circuit breakers on my instrument panel. The
       > panel will be finished with a flat tan paint. Black
       > lettering on the tan may not show up well.
       > Suggestions appreciated.
       >
       > George Swinford
       >
       >
       >
       > Contributions
       > any other
       > Forums.
       >
       > latest messages.
       > List members.
       >
       > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
       > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
       > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
       > http://www.matronics.com/archives
       > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
       > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
       >
       >
       >
       >
       >
      
      
      =====
      ----------------------------
      Michel Therrien CH601-HD
         http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
         http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
         http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
      
      __________________________________
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 32
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Follow Up - Terminals/Crimpers... | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
      As a quick follow up. On the Insulated AMP PIDG connectors there is what
      appears to be an open barrel that sort of funnels into the wire entry
      point on the connector. When doing the 2nd wire insultation crimp, do
      you crimp just before this barrel or do you crimp the barrel?
      
      Thanks!!!
      Don
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 33
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Follow Up - Terminals/Crimpers... | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
      Sorry guys - posted this to the wrong list....
      
      Don
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Don Honabach 
      Subject: Zenith-List: Follow Up - Terminals/Crimpers...
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
      As a quick follow up. On the Insulated AMP PIDG connectors there is what
      appears to be an open barrel that sort of funnels into the wire entry
      point on the connector. When doing the 2nd wire insultation crimp, do
      you crimp just before this barrel or do you crimp the barrel?
      
      Thanks!!!
      Don
      
      
      direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 34
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Instrument panel labels | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      
      Well Scott, I think your suggestion is very good, but
      my inst. panel is done and I won't remove anything
      from there! ;-)
      
      I try to update my web site regularly... next update
      will be the canopy pages, but it won't be before later
      during the week.
      
      do not archive
      
      
      --- Scott Laughlin <cookwithgas@hotmail.com> wrote:
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin"
      > <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
      > 
      > Michel:
      > 
      > I would go one step further.  If you lay out your
      > panel, paint it, then 
      > install the stickers before installing any
      > instruments, you can spray a 
      > clear coat over the stickers and they won't peel
      > off.  Otherwise you will be 
      > unhappy with the results after a while.  I have had
      > good luck with this 
      > "spray-over" application before and it looks
      > professional.  Clear coat 
      > lacquer dries fast and is very shiny, but others
      > would work.
      > 
      > Post pictures on your website of what you do.  I
      > would like to see it.
      > 
      > Scott Laughlin
      > www.cooknwithgas.com
      > 
      
      
      =====
      ----------------------------
      Michel Therrien CH601-HD
        http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
        http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
        http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
      
      __________________________________
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 35
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Instrument panel labels | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
      
      Thanks Michel-Great looking panel, isn't it!
      
      George  
      
      Do Not Archive
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Instrument panel labels
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
      > 
      > I plan on doing like shown on this page:
      > http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel2.html
      > 
      > Michel
      > 
      > --- George Swinford <grs-pms@attbi.com> wrote:
      > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
      > > <grs-pms@attbi.com>
      > > 
      > > I am looking for a neat way to label the switches
      > > and circuit breakers on my instrument panel. The
      > > panel will be finished with a flat tan paint. Black
      > > lettering on the tan may not show up well.
      > > Suggestions appreciated.
      > > 
      > > George Swinford
      > > 
      > > 
      > >
      > > Contributions
      > > any other
      > > Forums.
      > >
      > > latest messages.
      > > List members.
      > >
      > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
      > > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
      > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      > >
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > 
      > 
      > =====
      > ----------------------------
      > Michel Therrien CH601-HD
      >   http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
      >   http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
      >   http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
      > 
      > __________________________________
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 36
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 20:58:14 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      Hi Bill.
         What was your CHT on that trip?  Maybe I am expecting too much. My Cht stays
      205 to 210 and the oil never above 190. I don't have water temp gauge. Don Walker
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Bill Morelli
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 4:51 PM
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli <billvt@together.net>
      
        I also do not have any cooling problems. I just finished a flight with the
        ambient temp at 96 deg. My oil gets to 220 and water stays at 210. These
        temps are typical for me during the summer months. In winter of course,
        they are lower.
      
        I do have a heater core for my cabin heat and I think that extra radiator
        area makes a difference.
      
        Regards,
        Bill     (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 254.3 flight hrs. - 365
        landings, 1 ON ICE!!)
        web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
      
      
        At 09:19 PM 6/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
        >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
        >
        >Kelly,
        >Where is your radiator? If you don't have a heater core on the noncooled
        >circuit, it will bring it down 10 to 15 degrees.
        >     NOW, what do you make of this. My engine runs 205 to 208 in 80
        > degrees and runs the same in 92 degrees ambient temp. What does that 
        > mean.  Don Walker HDS
        >   ----- Original Message -----
        >   From: The Meiste's
        >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        >   Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 8:49 PM
        >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stratus cooling data
        >
        >
        >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
        >
        >    make the mixture rich enough (check by looking at the spark plugs),
        >
        >    John Karnes
        >    Port Orchard, WA
        >
        >
        >   John or anyone else with this Bing CV carb, how difficult is this to do?
        >   Is it just a matter of popping the top off the carbs & pulling out the
        >   needle & changing the clip location (down one notch), then reassembling the
        >   carbs.
        >   Will by making this needle setting richer lower both water & oil temps, or
        >   just the water temp?
        >   My Stratus cruising at 4,000 RPM on a 80 degree day will hit 220 on the
        >   water, & 240 on the oil pretty fast.
        >   Hoping this may help matters some .... thanks,
        >
        >   Kelly Meiste
        >   601 HD Stratus (58 hrs)
        >
        >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 37
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  | 
      
      
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:19:44 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      test results: Soob cooling
          We found that heat transfer was good from engine to coolant. CHT read 205 and
      water on inlet of radiator was 201. However, water on the outlet of radiator
      was only 198. The cooling has been carried by mostly by the heater core in the
      nose, which had a 35 degree differential. There was dead air in front of the
      radiator, but a good air flow about 6" below the mouth of the radiator (30 inches
      back on the belly.)
          In order to test coolant flow, a water hose was used to drench radiator. This
      kept CHT just below 180 degrees. The maximum radiator differential was about
      25 degrees.
           Conclusions: The heat transfer to coolant is good. The flow of water is good.
      The air flow and the efficiency of the golf radiator are not good. Joe recommended
      a new radiator. He didn't like the round tubes and the design efficiency of
      the Golf.
       One fix may be ducted air to the radiator. Flying home at 1500 ft. the ambient
      temp was 73 degrees, and my cht was at the ol' reliable 205.  Don W.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Don Walker
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
      I am meeting  at 2:00 pm today with a pilot and engineer who has four aircraft,
      one of which is a soob powered gyro. He has volunteered to hook probes here and
      there on my HDS in order to determine if it is a flow problem or otherwise.
      I'll let ya know of any significant results as well as his procedure.   Don W
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Don Honabach
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:46 AM
        Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
        It sounds to me that what needs to happen is some sort of analysis that
        finds the best heat transfer rate versus the coolant flow rate. I highly
        doubt that us Subaru owners that purchased firewall forward kits, etc.
        bought anything that was engineered. My guess is that it was slapped
        together and it worked for someone so it was sold to us :o
      
        If any one has any ideas for how to setup a test rig, I'd be more than
        happy to participate.
      
        Regards,
        Don Honabach
      
      
        -----Original Message-----
        From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com]
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
        All aluminum.
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Benford2@aol.com
          To: zenith-list@matronics.com
          Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
          Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
          --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
          In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
          dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
          >
          >
          > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
          >
          > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of rpm's
        was
          > this effective with?  don
          >   ----- Original Message -----
          >   From: The Meiste's
          >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
          >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
          >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
          >
          >
          >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's"
        <meiste@essex1.com>
          >
          >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
          >   >
          >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
          >   >
          >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
          >   >
          >   >
          >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
          >   >
          >   >
          >   >  jack lewis
          >   >   celista bc
          >   >   canada
          >
          >
          >
      
          The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the surfaces
        of the
          engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks
        and copper
          / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat
        transfer.
          On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a
        little
          cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am
        running an
          aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on
        this beast is
          aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some
        custom
          aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum
        motor / rad
          combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been
        explained to me
          that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor /rads
        / coolant
          lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it takes
        15 to
          25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of
        radiators
          does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper
        fins? Plastic
          tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      
          Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      
      
        direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 38
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Stratus cooling data | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
      
      > The rad supplied by ZAC is way larger than the original radiator for the
      > Rotax 912, so I believe it should be sufficient for the Stratus as well.
      >
      > Thilo Kind
      
      Hi Thilo,
      Things must have changed, as my installation instructions that came with my
      Stratus FWF package from ZAC (in 2000) shows the same rad and mounting
      brackets for the 912 installation and the Stratus installation. Only
      difference in the instructions is the location of one hose coming from the
      rad.
      What I now hear is for a 100 HP (Stratus) engine you will need a min of 300
      cubic inches of radiator volume for proper cooling. The VW rad supplied by
      ZAC in my FWF pac is only about 285 cubic inches. Fine for the 80 HP Rotax
      ..... but not my 100 HP Stratus.
      
      Kelly
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 39
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
      Don,
      
      Great information - thanks for posting.
      
      Since I don't have my radiator installed yet, this may not be revelant,
      but I've often wondered if the fins on the radiator where angled so that
      the air could flow past them 'naturally' (i.e. in parallel with the
      wind/air) if you wouldn't get better cooling results. I also wonder if
      any one makes radiators that have their cooling fins at made various
      angles. It would also be interesting to see if you could mill two halfs
      of aluminum block make your own custom radiator - kind of like making
      your own custom heat sink for a computer.
      
      Don Honabach
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com] 
      Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
      test results: Soob cooling
          We found that heat transfer was good from engine to coolant. CHT
      read 205 and water on inlet of radiator was 201. However, water on the
      outlet of radiator was only 198. The cooling has been carried by mostly
      by the heater core in the nose, which had a 35 degree differential.
      There was dead air in front of the radiator, but a good air flow about
      6" below the mouth of the radiator (30 inches back on the belly.)
          In order to test coolant flow, a water hose was used to drench
      radiator. This kept CHT just below 180 degrees. The maximum radiator
      differential was about 25 degrees.
           Conclusions: The heat transfer to coolant is good. The flow of
      water is good. The air flow and the efficiency of the golf radiator are
      not good. Joe recommended a new radiator. He didn't like the round tubes
      and the design efficiency of the Golf.  One fix may be ducted air to the
      radiator. Flying home at 1500 ft. the ambient temp was 73 degrees, and
      my cht was at the ol' reliable 205.  Don W.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Don Walker
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
      I am meeting  at 2:00 pm today with a pilot and engineer who has four
      aircraft, one of which is a soob powered gyro. He has volunteered to
      hook probes here and there on my HDS in order to determine if it is a
      flow problem or otherwise. I'll let ya know of any significant results
      as well as his procedure.   Don W
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Don Honabach
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:46 AM
        Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
      
        It sounds to me that what needs to happen is some sort of analysis
      that
        finds the best heat transfer rate versus the coolant flow rate. I
      highly
        doubt that us Subaru owners that purchased firewall forward kits, etc.
        bought anything that was engineered. My guess is that it was slapped
        together and it worked for someone so it was sold to us :o
      
        If any one has any ideas for how to setup a test rig, I'd be more than
        happy to participate.
      
        Regards,
        Don Honabach
      
      
        -----Original Message-----
        From: Don Walker [mailto:dwalk3dw@msn.com]
        To: zenith-list@matronics.com
        Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
        --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
      
        All aluminum.
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Benford2@aol.com
          To: zenith-list@matronics.com
          Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:26 AM
          Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
      
      
          --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
          In a message dated 6/28/2003 7:28:42 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
          dwalk3dw@msn.com writes:
      
      
          >
          >
          > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw@msn.com>
          >
          > I'm no engineer, but this seems to defy my logic. What kind of
      rpm's
        was
          > this effective with?  don
          >   ----- Original Message -----
          >   From: The Meiste's
          >   To: zenith-list@matronics.com
          >   Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:24 AM
          >   Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fw: cooling
          >
          >
          >   --> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's"
        <meiste@essex1.com>
          >
          >   > we had alot of cooling problems on an ea 81
          >   >
          >   > the cure was to slow the water  down
          >   >
          >   > we put as smaller pulley on the crankshaft
          >   >
          >   >
          >   > end of our problem  2 years ago
          >   >
          >   >
          >   >  jack lewis
          >   >   celista bc
          >   >   canada
          >
          >
          >
      
          The idea is to slow down the coolant as it passes across the
      surfaces
        of the
          engine water jacket and the innered of the radiator. On iron blocks
        and copper
          / brass radiators one needs to slow down the coolant for good heat
        transfer.
          On aluminum motors using copper / brass rads in needs to speed up a
        little
          cause the aluminum block transfers heat faster. In my case I am
        running an
          aluminum Ford V-8 block, aluminum heads and everything thing else on
        this beast is
          aluminum too. I will be having Rod Davis Racing fabricate me some
        custom
          aluminum coolers. Indy cars and other high performance all aluminum
        motor / rad
          combinations move the coolant as fast as possible. It has been
        explained to me
          that a Indy car circulates coolant through its system, ie, motor
      /rads
        / coolant
          lines about every 4 seconds where as a standard passenger car it
      takes
        15 to
          25 seconds to make a complete circuit. I am curious, what kind of
        radiators
          does  ZAC furnish? Is it copper / brass? Plastic tanks and copper
        fins? Plastic
          tanks and aluminum fins or all aluminum?
      
          Ben Haas. N801BH. Jackson Hole Wy.
      
      
        direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 40
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | While you were sleeping.... | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <Jon@joncroke.com>
      
      One night, while you were sleeping, one of the world's best light aircraft
      engines mysteriously got better!
      
      "TBO for the 912 and 912S series engines was increased from 1200 to 1500
      hours"
      
      (Reprinted without permission from Experimenter Magazine, July 2003  Page 5)
      
      How does this happen, all by itself?  Maybe the only thing they could find
      to improve was the TBO! ?
      
      Jon
      701 near completion
      near Green Bay, WI
      
      
      www.joncroke.com
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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