Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:35 AM - Re: Don't throw it away Philip!!! (Don Honabach)
2. 01:20 AM - Re: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage) (Phil & Michele Miller)
3. 02:46 AM - Re: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage) (Don Honabach)
4. 02:48 AM - Re: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage) (Elwood140@aol.com)
5. 04:15 AM - Re: Unsecured baggage (Grant Corriveau)
6. 04:31 AM - Re: Weatherstrip adhesive (Philip Polstra)
7. 06:31 AM - Re: Wing Tanks (Bill Morelli)
8. 06:48 AM - Re: Weatherstrip adhesive (Larry McFarland)
9. 08:47 AM - Re: Weatherstrip adhesive (Ed)
10. 10:50 AM - Re: Weatherstrip adhesive (Michel Therrien)
11. 12:56 PM - Re: Don't throw it away Philip!!! (Gary Gower)
12. 01:04 PM - IMHO (Gary Gower)
13. 01:46 PM - Front-opening canopy misfit (Paul Hartl)
14. 02:10 PM - Re: Don't throw it away Philip!!! (Rockin Rim Ranch, Inc.)
15. 02:43 PM - Re: Front-opening canopy misfit (Michel Therrien)
16. 02:55 PM - Re: Front-opening canopy misfit (Larry McFarland)
17. 03:17 PM - Aileron flutter (Jeff Paden)
18. 04:36 PM - Hole Layout (DVanvoorhi@aol.com)
19. 05:50 PM - Re: Weatherstrip adhesive (Bill Steer)
20. 06:47 PM - Re: hole layout (Dabusmith@aol.com)
21. 07:38 PM - 601HD lower front longeron (Bill Steer)
22. 08:28 PM - Re: Aileron flutter (Rich)
23. 08:35 PM - Re: Weatherstrip adhesive (Fred or Sandy Hulen)
24. 11:11 PM - Re: Aileron flutter (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Don't throw it away Philip!!! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>> I'm not looking to sue Stratus. If the underwriter wants to weasel
out of paying a legit claim for a policy that was purchased in good
faith then it is probably lawyer time.
What insurance company are you using? What is their basis for denying
the claim? Always nice to know those that stand behind the intent of the
policy versus those that look for ways out. It might also help others to
verify that they actually have real coverage versus just thinking they
have coverage. This stuff drives me nuts because insurance should be
exactly for this type of stuff (insuring against major loss, not minor
cost).
Also, going back to my previous statement, everyone hates lawyers until
they need one :)
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Polstra [mailto:ppolstra@mindspring.com]
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Don't throw it away Philip!!!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
--> <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
It isn't clear if the spars were damaged or not. The fact that both
mains were bent might indicate some internal damage as well.
I do think that the plane is a goldmine for a scratch builder.
I'm still struggling with the insurance company. They sent me a letter
trying to say that there was a "question of coverage" for my engine
failure. It seems they would rather have you run out of gas and then
there is no such question.
I'm not looking to sue Stratus. If the underwriter wants to weasel out
of paying a legit claim for a policy that was purchased in good faith
then it is probably lawyer time.
BTW, I informed the factory about the seatbelt failure. They will pass
it along to CH. They also have offered a substantial discount on a new
kit. Nice to see they understand customer service. Perhaps they should
talk to the underwriter.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Weber" <chrisoz@gmx.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
<ppolstra@mindspring.com>
>
> The plane is not rebuildable. I have pictures for anyone interested.
Here
> is a summary of the damage. Nosegear bent aft into the radiator
> deforming bottom of fuselage. Both mains bent aft, possible damage to
> the spar.
Deep
> dents in both center wing leading edges from trees I hit. Dents in
> tears
in
> both outboard wing sections. Canopy cracked with large hole where
> towbar shot through. Elevator dented by tops of trees that bounced
> off canopy
and
> continued aft. Instrument panel bent.
>
as a scratch builder I start to salivate at the very thought of what you
have there! Alas, I am on the other side of the big pond...
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil & Michele Miller" <millerpg@ps.gen.nz>
I've participated on this list for a while now and have tried
unsuccessfully to figure out what IMHO means.
Sorry, but curiosity has finally got the better of me.
Phil Miller
New Zealand
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Frisby
Subject: Zenith-List: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
This discussion of unsecured items brings to mind the danger of fixed
ballast in the tail, often necessary for balancing heavy engines.
If these fixtures cannot be secured sufficiently that a crash impact
wouldn't release them, then they should be engineered to break up into
small
pieces before releasing. Frangable ballast, such as bags of shot could
be
used. Of course, even an intact bag of lead shot would be a missle, it
would need to be situated and supported so that the bag would rupture
and
empty before it's fixture would fail.
IMHO
Jim
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Phil -
IMHO - In my humble opinion.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil & Michele Miller [mailto:millerpg@ps.gen.nz]
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil & Michele Miller"
--> <millerpg@ps.gen.nz>
I've participated on this list for a while now and have tried
unsuccessfully to figure out what IMHO means.
Sorry, but curiosity has finally got the better of me.
Phil Miller
New Zealand
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Frisby
Subject: Zenith-List: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <marslander@hotmail.com>
This discussion of unsecured items brings to mind the danger of fixed
ballast in the tail, often necessary for balancing heavy engines.
If these fixtures cannot be secured sufficiently that a crash impact
wouldn't release them, then they should be engineered to break up into
small
pieces before releasing. Frangable ballast, such as bags of shot could
be
used. Of course, even an intact bag of lead shot would be a missle, it
would need to be situated and supported so that the bag would rupture
and
empty before it's fixture would fail.
IMHO
Jim
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Elwood140@aol.com
Phil, IMHO is cyberspeak for 'in my humble opinion'.
Larry Wood
701 aborning
Do Not Archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List:Unsecured baggage |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> From: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
> ...Don't even want to think about a battery in the tail coming
> up to visit me!
Good point! FWIW .... I had originally planned to 'velcro' my batteries
into their racks in the tail section - as suggested by 'Electric Bob' in his
book that many of us are familiar with. Chris Heintz 'strongly suggested'
that I use metal straps when he sent back the approval for my battery mod.
And I did. You can probably lift the entire aircraft by the batteries now!
Anyways - hopefully secure enough to withstand a several G impact at least.
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 6
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| Subject: | Weatherstrip adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
I used 3M automotive weatherstrip adhesive. I bought it at the Advance Auto
down the street from my house. Seems to have worked pretty well.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I'd like to know what you used for glueing the rubber
seals (weatherstrips) to the canopy.
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli <billvt@together.net>
Ray,
I don't know if it is applicable to your tank sealing problem but on my HDS
I sealed the tank filler necks (all 3) to the skins by fabricating circular
fairings and then sealing them with silicone. You can see photos of this on
my web site (address below). Just follow the construction link.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 254.3 flight hrs. - 365
landings, 1 ON ICE!!)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
At 06:24 PM 7/2/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
>
> >
> > Actually, vented tanks collect water as the result of moisture
> condensation.
> > Happens with each heat cycle, day/night. Good to drain a sample prior to
> > flight, as in preflight check.
> >
> > Jerry, 701SP in work
> >
>
>Thanks to all who have responded on and off list regarding this issue.
>
>Sorry but I think some folks are not understanding that it is not water in
>the tank that is a concern. As stated before, the tanks are sealed (save
>for the overflow vent). The issue is that of moisture flowing through the
>gap and collecting inside of the wing which could cause potential corrosion
>problems, not to mention out of balance issues if the quantity was
>significant. Add a little dust and then there might even be mud in the
>wing. Think of this as more of having an inspection plate on top of the
>wing that is not sealed and forget that the fuel tank was ever mentioned and
>then you'll have a true grasp of the issue.
>
>To restate, I am not in the least concerned about integrity of the tank. I
>am concerned about long term integrity of the wing. Thanks for all of the
>responses and especially to those of you who contributed information
>relevant to the issue of concern.
>
>
>DO NOT ACHIVE
>
>Best Regards, Ray Montagne
>Cupertino, CA
>
>===========================================================================
>
>Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL, Jabiru 3300
>Construction Log & Photos: <http://home.earthlink.net/~ac6qj/zodiac>
>Build Status: Rudder completed
> Elevator Completed
> Stabilizer Completed
> Flaps Completed
> Ailerons Completed
> Right Wing Under Completed
> Right Wing Tip Completed
> Left Wing Under Construction
>
>===========================================================================
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Weatherstrip adhesive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello again,
>
> I'd like to know what you used for glueing the rubber
> seals (weatherstrips) to the canopy.
>
> I tried to find the Loctite Strip'n Seal as specified
> in Zenair's instructions, but I could'nt.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Michel
Michel,
I found the stuff at Wallmart in the paint and adhesives section.
Larry
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed" <orion@silcom.com>
Michel.
"I'd like to know what you used for glueing the rubber
seals (weatherstrips) to the canopy"
I used 1300L which is a general adhesive used in aviation for gluing
de-ice/anti-ice boots and door seals etc. A 3M product and is excellent even
if a little messy to apply.
fwiw.
Ed 601hds/lyc
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I went back to Walmart in the paint and adhesive
section and found several Loctite products that are
Adhesive/sealant. They are not called Stick'n Seal
and they are targeted to Plumbers, Handymans and
Cloth.
So, I did'nt purchase that.
However, I found a Weatherstrip adhesive from Permatex
that I bought. Anybody used that?
Michel
--- Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland"
> <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Michel,
> I found the stuff at Wallmart in the paint and
> adhesives section.
> Larry
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 11
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| Subject: | Don't throw it away Philip!!! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Is the same all over the world... The insurance companys work is
divided in two main goals:
1.- to SELL the insurance as expensive as they can (extra prime, for
more danger).
2.- and most important for them TO AVOID PAYING, doesnt matter what...
We need to be expert lawyers (not normal honest citizens) to buy the
correct policy, and hire a lawyer bureau to collect the (left
over)money if something happens.
I only have 3th party damage insurance, I fly, drive (& live) at my own
risk, if something happens the damaged person has to fight my insurance
co.
I will repair my damage, hate to live in false ilusions and pay for
them.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not archive.
--- Philip Polstra <ppolstra@mindspring.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
> <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
>
> It isn't clear if the spars were damaged or not. The fact that both
> mains
> were bent might indicate some internal damage as well.
>
> I do think that the plane is a goldmine for a scratch builder.
>
> I'm still struggling with the insurance company. They sent me a
> letter
> trying to say that there was a "question of coverage" for my engine
> failure.
> It seems they would rather have you run out of gas and then there is
> no such
> question.
>
> I'm not looking to sue Stratus. If the underwriter wants to weasel
> out of
> paying a legit claim for a policy that was purchased in good faith
> then it
> is probably lawyer time.
>
> BTW, I informed the factory about the seatbelt failure. They will
> pass it
> along to CH. They also have offered a substantial discount on a new
> kit.
> Nice to see they understand customer service. Perhaps they should
> talk to
> the underwriter.
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Weber" <chrisoz@gmx.net>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
> <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
> >
> > The plane is not rebuildable. I have pictures for anyone
> interested.
> Here
> > is a summary of the damage. Nosegear bent aft into the radiator
> deforming
> > bottom of fuselage. Both mains bent aft, possible damage to the
> spar.
> Deep
> > dents in both center wing leading edges from trees I hit. Dents in
> tears
> in
> > both outboard wing sections. Canopy cracked with large hole where
> towbar
> > shot through. Elevator dented by tops of trees that bounced off
> canopy
> and
> > continued aft. Instrument panel bent.
> >
> as a scratch builder I start to salivate at the very thought of what
> you
> have there! Alas, I am on the other side of the big pond...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Is something we learn, very usefull to understand, here are a few I
have collected, maybe I have missed some, I have collect them since
several years of e-mail:
ASAP..................As soon as possible
RTFM..................Read the Fuckin' Manual
PITA....................Pain in the ass
BTW....................By the way
BFN.....................Bye, for now
OTOH.................On the other hand
OTTH..................On the third hand
FWIW..................For what it's worth
FYI.......................For Your information
RSN....................Real Soon Now
MLA....................Multi Letter Acronym
WYSIWYG..........What you see is what you get
OIC......................Oh, I see!
IMO......................In my opinion
IMHO...................In my humble opinion [the speaker is never
humble]
IMCO...................In my considered opinion
g,d&r ..................grinning, ducking, and running
OOTB.................Out of the box
LOL.....................Laugh Out loud
PMFJI.................Pardon me for jumping in (to a conversation)
TIA......................Thanks in advance
ROFLMAO.........Rolling On Floor Laughing My Ass Off
LMK....................Let Me Know
.....................Smiling
<g>.....................grinning
..................big f---in' grin
<vbg>.................very big grin
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Phil & Michele Miller <millerpg@ps.gen.nz> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil & Michele Miller"
> <millerpg@ps.gen.nz>
>
> I've participated on this list for a while now and have tried
> unsuccessfully to figure out what IMHO means.
>
> Sorry, but curiosity has finally got the better of me.
> Phil Miller
> New Zealand
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
> Frisby
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Fixed Ballast too (was unsecured baggage)
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby"
> <marslander@hotmail.com>
>
> This discussion of unsecured items brings to mind the danger of fixed
>
> ballast in the tail, often necessary for balancing heavy engines.
>
> If these fixtures cannot be secured sufficiently that a crash impact
> wouldn't release them, then they should be engineered to break up
> into
> small
> pieces before releasing. Frangable ballast, such as bags of shot
> could
> be
> used. Of course, even an intact bag of lead shot would be a missle,
> it
> would need to be situated and supported so that the bag would rupture
> and
> empty before it's fixture would fail.
>
> IMHO
> Jim
>
>
> direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Front-opening canopy misfit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <pdhartl@mindspring.com>
List,
Has anyone else had trouble fitting the ZAC forward-opening canopy kit to an older
HD/HDS 601? In particular, the canopy side frames (6C2-3) are too long - perhaps
these are for an XL? The distance from the pivot point to B2 (the slanting upper
rear
fuselage tube) on mine is 1195mm, but the canopy side frame is 1205mm from
pivot to rear. There appears to be a small gap indicated between the rear of the
canopy side frame and B2 on page 6-C-3, but no dimension given. An inch,
perhaps? Anyone with a completed forward-opening canopy - what is the gap on
yours? Also, how high above the upper front longeron is the bottom of the canopy
side frame at the pivot point?
I called Nic about this, and although he was willing to exchange my side frames
for
shorter ones, he seemed kind of confused and asked that I send him all the
dimensions. I did on Tuesday, but haven't had a reply yet.
Thanks,
Paul Hartl, 601HDS, Jabiru 3300
Tail, rear fuse, wings completed;fuselage nearly complete
FS2002 Aircraft Website: http://home.mindspring.com/~pdhartl/
email: pdhartl@mindspring.com or paul_hartl@communityschool.org
Sun Valley, Idaho 208-788-9147
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Don't throw it away Philip!!! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rockin Rim Ranch, Inc." <dave@rockinrimranch.com>
You got it, Gary. I didn't have auto insurance for 20 years in California. I
saved more than $20,000. I probably won't have insurance on the plane
either.
Insurance is one of capitalism's biggest rip-offs.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gower" <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Don't throw it away Philip!!!
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
>
> Is the same all over the world... The insurance companys work is
> divided in two main goals:
> 1.- to SELL the insurance as expensive as they can (extra prime, for
> more danger).
> 2.- and most important for them TO AVOID PAYING, doesnt matter what...
>
>
> We need to be expert lawyers (not normal honest citizens) to buy the
> correct policy, and hire a lawyer bureau to collect the (left
> over)money if something happens.
>
> I only have 3th party damage insurance, I fly, drive (& live) at my own
> risk, if something happens the damaged person has to fight my insurance
> co.
>
> I will repair my damage, hate to live in false ilusions and pay for
> them.
>
> Saludos
> Gary Gower
> Do not archive.
>
>
> --- Philip Polstra <ppolstra@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
> > <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
> >
> > It isn't clear if the spars were damaged or not. The fact that both
> > mains
> > were bent might indicate some internal damage as well.
> >
> > I do think that the plane is a goldmine for a scratch builder.
> >
> > I'm still struggling with the insurance company. They sent me a
> > letter
> > trying to say that there was a "question of coverage" for my engine
> > failure.
> > It seems they would rather have you run out of gas and then there is
> > no such
> > question.
> >
> > I'm not looking to sue Stratus. If the underwriter wants to weasel
> > out of
> > paying a legit claim for a policy that was purchased in good faith
> > then it
> > is probably lawyer time.
> >
> > BTW, I informed the factory about the seatbelt failure. They will
> > pass it
> > along to CH. They also have offered a substantial discount on a new
> > kit.
> > Nice to see they understand customer service. Perhaps they should
> > talk to
> > the underwriter.
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Weber" <chrisoz@gmx.net>
> >
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Polstra"
> > <ppolstra@mindspring.com>
> > >
> > > The plane is not rebuildable. I have pictures for anyone
> > interested.
> > Here
> > > is a summary of the damage. Nosegear bent aft into the radiator
> > deforming
> > > bottom of fuselage. Both mains bent aft, possible damage to the
> > spar.
> > Deep
> > > dents in both center wing leading edges from trees I hit. Dents in
> > tears
> > in
> > > both outboard wing sections. Canopy cracked with large hole where
> > towbar
> > > shot through. Elevator dented by tops of trees that bounced off
> > canopy
> > and
> > > continued aft. Instrument panel bent.
> > >
> > as a scratch builder I start to salivate at the very thought of what
> > you
> > have there! Alas, I am on the other side of the big pond...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Front-opening canopy misfit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
You need to trim the tubes to fit. You do this by
trial and retrial. Take care of not removing too much
because as you trim, the top of the tube becomes not
only lower, but more forward. You may also have to
adjust the canopy (trim). Start with the rear tube.
For tube fitting adjustment, you need to bend or
unbend the tube a bit so it matches the curvature of
the bubble and also you need to control the width so
the width fits the latches on the fuselage longerons.
I made a simple tool with pieces of 2X4 to play with
the tube bending for these adjustments (see my canopy
section).
The canopy bubbles are blowned, not formed. So I
would'nt be surprise that no bubble is exactly the
same as the next one. This is why I think it's normal
to adjust the tubes.
Good luck and fun!
Michel
--- Paul Hartl <pdhartl@mindspring.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl"
> <pdhartl@mindspring.com>
>
> List,
>
> Has anyone else had trouble fitting the ZAC
> forward-opening canopy kit to an older
> HD/HDS 601? In particular, the canopy side frames
> (6C2-3) are too long - perhaps
> these are for an XL? The distance from the pivot
> point to B2 (the slanting upper rear
> fuselage tube) on mine is 1195mm, but the canopy
> side frame is 1205mm from
> pivot to rear. There appears to be a small gap
> indicated between the rear of the
> canopy side frame and B2 on page 6-C-3, but no
> dimension given. An inch,
> perhaps? Anyone with a completed forward-opening
> canopy - what is the gap on
> yours? Also, how high above the upper front
> longeron is the bottom of the canopy
> side frame at the pivot point?
>
> I called Nic about this, and although he was willing
> to exchange my side frames for
> shorter ones, he seemed kind of confused and asked
> that I send him all the
> dimensions. I did on Tuesday, but haven't had a
> reply yet.
>
> Thanks,
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Front-opening canopy misfit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Hartl" <pdhartl@mindspring.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Front-opening canopy misfit
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <pdhartl@mindspring.com>
>
> List,
>
> Has anyone else had trouble fitting the ZAC forward-opening canopy kit to
an older
> HD/HDS 601? In particular, the canopy side frames (6C2-3) are too long -
perhaps
> these are for an XL? The distance from the pivot point to B2 (the slanting
upper rear
> fuselage tube) on mine is 1195mm, but the canopy side frame is 1205mm from
> pivot to rear. There appears to be a small gap indicated between the rear
of the
> canopy side frame and B2 on page 6-C-3, but no dimension given. An inch,
> perhaps? Anyone with a completed forward-opening canopy - what is the gap
on
> yours? Also, how high above the upper front longeron is the bottom of the
canopy
> side frame at the pivot point?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Paul Hartl, 601HDS, Jabiru 3300
> Tail, rear fuse, wings completed;fuselage nearly complete
> FS2002 Aircraft Website: http://home.mindspring.com/~pdhartl/
> email: pdhartl@mindspring.com or paul_hartl@communityschool.org
> Sun Valley, Idaho 208-788-9147
Paul,
I just measured my canopy pivot point to forward edge of B2 at the armrest
and have a 1220mm distance.
My airframe built per plans is exactly 1205mm pivot to end, so you may see
little change in the standard canopy side-frame length.
I doubt that this would imply you'd have more serious problems to deal with
if you shortened the frames by the difference between us in pivot center to
B2. Just be sure to keep your canopy rearward enough to afford a good
opening angle. I ended up with only 60-65-degrees Pictures available at
www.macsmachine.com.
Larry McFarland - 601hds
Message 17
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Paden" <jeffpaden@madbbs.com>
I hope some one on this list can help me a bit here. We just spent the last
6 months rebuilding our CH-300 and took her for a test flight yesterday.
During the test flight we ran into a problem. At about 130 mph our ailerons
started to flutter. Not badly, but enough that I knew something was not
quite right. We landed safely and checked all the cables etc. We found
that when the stick was centered we had both ailerons in a slightly up
position. I thought this was the problem so I adjusted the rods so that
both ailerons were level with the top of the wing when the stick was
centered. I tested her again and found that the flutter problem was now
even worse than before. They flutter at about 120 mph now. Does anyone
have any idea what I may be doing wrong and how I can fix this problem?=0D
=0D
Thank you for any help you can offer. If you would like you can email me
off the list at jeffpaden@madbbs.com=0D
=0D
Jeff Paden
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
Radio Shack has 1/8" diameter rare earth magnets (64-1895 package of 2). I'm
using them to transfer hole locations between structure and skin. Tape one
magnet to the structure at the desired location. Put the skin in position, get
the other magnet close, and it will leap out of your hand and position itself
over the spot. Trace the outline of the magnet on the skin with a fine
"Sharpie", then eyeball the center of the circle and mark it. Works good for me.
Also handy for establishing endpoints of layout lines.
Dirk in Riverside CA
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
There are a couple of other things people have tried in this area. One is 3M
Weatherstrip adhesive. 3M 847 is popular for many aircraft uses.
The other one is Poly-Zap, which you can get in any good hobby shop. There was
a thread on this list several years ago about Poly-Zap which you may find
helpful.
Hope this helps.
Bill
> I went back to Walmart in the paint and adhesive
> section and found several Loctite products that are
> Adhesive/sealant. They are not called Stick'n Seal
> and they are targeted to Plumbers, Handymans and
> Cloth.
>
> So, I did'nt purchase that.
>
> However, I found a Weatherstrip adhesive from Permatex
> that I bought. Anybody used that?
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
>Tape one magnet to the structure at the desired location. Put the skin=20in
position, >get the other magnet close, and it will leap out of your hand and
position itself
>over the spot.
Thanks Dirk
That might be a great way to find the Jury strut holes for my lift strut
fairings!
Other quick methods:
You can tape one edge of a piece of clear plastic over the hole(s) so it can
swing back out of the way when the skin is positioned. Drill the plastic. Then
swing it back over the skin and drill through the holes in the clear plastic.
Also, you can draw intersecting lines to the exact center of the hole from
the adjoining skin surface with a marker and a straight edge. Then position=20the
undrilled skin and redraw the lines using the partial lines on the adjoining
surface and your straight edge. The center of the hole will be at the same spot
under the intersecting lines.
Dave Smith
701 Graham
sending in registration forms, planning the painting, unpacking from my move,
found hangar!
Message 21
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| Subject: | 601HD lower front longeron |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
There was recently a post (last few days) that repeated a post from May, 2000.
The post mentioned that the 13 x A5 rivets that attach the lower longeron 6F5-4
to the lower middle longeron 6F1-5 had been replaced by seven 3/16" bolts.
I've checked both the addendum to my plans and the CAD drawings on the builders
site; neither of those mention the change. I'm just at the stage where I'm
going to be installing the lower front longerons, so would like to know if this
change is documented somewhere. Can somebody refer me to an appropriate document?
Thanks very much for any help.
Bill
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron flutter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rich" <rbauer@intergate.com>
Is there any slop whatsoever in the linkages? Are the ailerons balanced?
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Paden" <jeffpaden@madbbs.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Aileron flutter
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Paden" <jeffpaden@madbbs.com>
>
> I hope some one on this list can help me a bit here. We just spent the
last
> 6 months rebuilding our CH-300 and took her for a test flight yesterday.
> During the test flight we ran into a problem. At about 130 mph our
ailerons
> started to flutter. Not badly, but enough that I knew something was not
> quite right. We landed safely and checked all the cables etc. We found
> that when the stick was centered we had both ailerons in a slightly up
> position. I thought this was the problem so I adjusted the rods so that
> both ailerons were level with the top of the wing when the stick was
> centered. I tested her again and found that the flutter problem was now
> even worse than before. They flutter at about 120 mph now. Does anyone
> have any idea what I may be doing wrong and how I can fix this problem?=0D
> =0D
> Thank you for any help you can offer. If you would like you can email me
> off the list at jeffpaden@madbbs.com=0D
> =0D
> Jeff Paden
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61@birch.net>
> The other one is Poly-Zap. There was
> a thread on this list several years ago about Poly-Zap which you may find
> helpful.
> Bill
++ I can offer some information on this as I have given clinics on "instant
glues" and have used more of the stuff than you can ever imagine. One of my
friends said he wouldn't be surprised if I built a house some day with the
stuff! Reading from the label on the container, it says, "For specialty
plastics" "Ideal for Lexan repairs", "Strong and flexible", etc. etc. Poly
Zap (a special version of super glue for "slick" plastics) sure made the job
easy for me when I secured the rubber seals to the canopy. After I had the
rubber in place and satisfied with the fit, I just went along the rubber
strip about every 8", lifted the rubber up far enough to squeeze a small
drop of the Poly Zap down in the bottom of the slot, then held the rubber
down in place for about 15 seconds or so until the Zap had "gone off"
(bonding by a rapid chemical reaction, not drying), then went to the next
spot 8" away. After I had these spots "tacked" I went in between each of
those with more spots. No need to use the stuff in a continuous amount all
the way around. After I had the rubber spotted in along the outside, I
lifted the canopy and did a few on the inside (not vary many though). It
doesn't take much to completely secure the rubber seal. Don't put enough in
there that it pushes out and shows when you press the rubber down while it
sets. Using this method, you won't be trying to put some sort of glue along
the whole thing and struggling to hold the whole thing in place at the same
time. I did some test applications on some of the scrap pieces that I had
cut off while fitting the canopy and you'll rip the surface off the rubber
before it will come loose from the canopy.
There are about 8 different types of Zap instant glues made by Pacer
Products (thin, thick, slow, gel, oderless, for nylon and delrin, etc.).
Poly Zap is not commonly used for normal wood and plastic model building and
thus not regularly stocked by most hobby shops. If you can't find it in
stock, wait for them to order it for you. My advice is....... Use ONLY POLY
ZAP. DO NOT use the other ZAP brand instant glue types as they are not
designed for long term bonding to slick acrylic plastics. The will become
brittle and will break loose with time and flexing.
Here's a valuable tip. Poly Zap tends to harden in the container sooner
than other "instant glues". It's life can be extended much longer if you
store it in the refrigerator between uses. Let it come up to room
temperature before using it again.
Fred Hulen
Jabiru 3300, 601HDS 50.5 hours
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron flutter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Jeff,
This is SERIOUS matter! Any flutter (at any speed) is potentially
dangerous at every flight. I will advise to check it directly with Mr.
Chris Heintz and ground your airplane untill you find the problem.
Recheck everything in the alerion system by the book (plans), even what
looks perfect, rebuild what ever is necesary.
Please, patience and safety is vital here, no place for partial (and
maybe if) testing, we are not Profesional Navy Test Pilots with several
experts behind us, we are parents (or grandparents) that will be
missed.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Jeff Paden <jeffpaden@madbbs.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Paden"
> <jeffpaden@madbbs.com>
>
> I hope some one on this list can help me a bit here. We just spent
> the last
> 6 months rebuilding our CH-300 and took her for a test flight
> yesterday.
> During the test flight we ran into a problem. At about 130 mph our
> ailerons
> started to flutter. Not badly, but enough that I knew something was
> not
> quite right. We landed safely and checked all the cables etc. We
> found
> that when the stick was centered we had both ailerons in a slightly
> up
> position. I thought this was the problem so I adjusted the rods so
> that
> both ailerons were level with the top of the wing when the stick was
> centered. I tested her again and found that the flutter problem was
> now
> even worse than before. They flutter at about 120 mph now. Does
> anyone
> have any idea what I may be doing wrong and how I can fix this
> problem?=0D
> =0D
> Thank you for any help you can offer. If you would like you can
> email me
> off the list at jeffpaden@madbbs.com=0D
> =0D
> Jeff Paden
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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