Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: TSO'd Instruments (Trampas)
2. 09:22 AM - Re: Off topic Engine Cooling...Thank you (owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com)
3. 09:58 AM - 701 torque tube question! (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
4. 10:45 AM - Re: 701 torque tube question! (Ken Szewc)
5. 10:54 AM - Re: Re: Off topic Engine Cooling...Thank you (Steve Dixon)
6. 11:21 AM - Re: 701 torque tube question! (Johann)
7. 02:58 PM - Jury Struts. (Gary Gower)
8. 03:04 PM - Re: 701 torque tube question! (Gary Gower)
9. 05:08 PM - 701 Stabilizer mounting details (Ken Szewc)
Message 1
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| Subject: | TSO'd Instruments |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
When checking out LCD or other glass cockpit items here are few things to
ask and consider...
LCD polarization - Some LCDs will be useable with polarized sun glasses.
Most all LCDs have a polarization; hopefully it will be at 45 degrees to
viewing angle.
Boot time - Some of the glass cock pit units are running an OS like windows.
These units often take several minutes to boot up. For some people the boot
time may not be a problem, but for others it is a concern.
Sunlight Readable - Some LCD units are not visible in the sun, talk to your
manufacture or others using the device to verify it will work.
Update rate - Some devices like engine monitors only sample the data at very
slow rate, once or twice a second. This maybe ok for some, however if you
want to record data and monitor later it is easy to miss a problem. Imagine
your tachometer only updating every second.
Power requirements - Check the specs on the power consumption, and back up
electrical system requirements.
Heat specifications - Electronics generally do not like extreme
temperatures, think about how hot and cold your plane will get, will the
unit operate under those conditions?
Dimming - If you fly at night you will want to make sure the unit can dim
the LCD.
Size and Weight - Some systems require a lot of weight and room, computer,
DVD drive, LCD, etc.
Field Updates - Most of these are new products as such they will have some
software updates over the next few years. Make sure you can update the
software your self. The last thing you want is to be grounded waiting for a
new unit.
User Configuration - Some units require the manufacture to enter calibration
data. This is fine if you never ever change anything. However, more than
likely you will change something which will require some changes or
recalibrations. Make sure you do not have to send your unit back to the
factory for this. Imaging on an engine monitor and not being able to find
the correct oil pressure sensor again. Can you use a different one?
Return policy - A lot of these questions are warm fuzzies you have to get,
make sure the product has a good return policy.
Warranty - What happens when the field update fails? How long will it take
to get you a new unit? How long is the warranty?
These are some of the questions I have heard and have asked about glass
cockpit items. Do with them as you wish.
Trampas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nhulin
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: TSO'd Instruments
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
At 07:24:45 PM PST US, Alejandro Roca <alex_roca@mac.com> wrote:
I am the stage where I need to purchase instruments and avionics. I
have received quotes from several suppliers...<snip>
So far I plan for (Altimeter, VSI, ASI, Turn Coordinator,
Directional Gyro (Vacuum), Artificial Horizon (Vacuum), GPS Garmin 196,
Vertical Card Compass, IC COM and an Grand Rapids EIS). Any input
regarding on the TSO vs Non TSO would be appreciated. <snip>
Alex,
I know you mention vacuum gauges but my wife and I did the math for an all
electric panel and the electronic options come out looking pretty
economical, not to mention more reliable (assumed), much lighter, and easier
to install, when compared to an all electric gyro panel.
If you were to consider the all electric options you might want to look at
the MicroEncoder(~$1300), MicroMonitor (~$1200), SkyDat (~$650), Dynon
(~$2000), and/or Grand Rapids Horizon-1 (~$6000). Using either the
MicroEncoder, Dynon, or Horizon-1 you won't need an altitude encoder so you
can save about $180 straight off. We have chapter members with the Dynon and
it is reported as very good, even if a little bit limited on screen size.
Since you have the Grand Rapid EIS listed you might want to seriously
consider the Horizon-1 since you will get graphical engine monitoring when
connected to the EIS, plus moving map when connected to a GPS head.
With either the Dynon or Horizon-1 you won't need the card compass since
they both have magnetic heading information. Both of these have alternate
electrical inputs so only an internal failure will leave you without a
compass but a handheld GPS will give you that information as well. You might
also want to give thought to adding the VSI, Alt, and Airspeed options to
the EIS since it works out a touch cheaper than conventional gauges.
There are other options but these are the ones I know about and have
investigated at least a little bit. It has been a while since I looked into
all of this so I may have some of the functionality mixed up. I know that
the MicroEncoder and SkyDat don't cover the AI & DG but I think that they
cover the Alt, VSI, and airspeed. The MicroMonitor could be an alternative
for the EIS.
Here is my line-up:
EIS-6000 w/Airspeed, Alt, VSI, Carb temp, Amps, Fuel Pressure, Fuel Flow
($1800)
Horizon-1 (Manufacturing slot #49 ~$6000)
MicroAir 760 Comm ($650)
Garmin 320A xpndr ($1150)
Ameri-King ELT ($150)
Antennas, connectors, cables, air pipe and fittings, etc ~$100
I have everything except the Horizon-1 which isn't shipping yet. I might add
a cheap Electric TC, but then again I may not.
Tailwinds, ...neil
Neil Hulin
601XL/Corvair - Fuselage and stuff
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Off topic Engine Cooling...Thank you |
--> Zenith-List message posted by:
Thank you to everyone for all of your suggestiions for possible causes. It
seems as though the concensus is the head gasket or water pump. Even though I
have never replaced either I will make the attempt to do one or both.
Thanks again folks, cash is a little tight right now and we have to stretch
this vehicle one more year before replacing, so hopefully I can make an
economical repair.
Steve
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">Thank you to everyone for all of your suggestiions for=
possible causes. It seems as though the concensus is the head gasket=20=
or water pump. Even though I have never replaced either I will make th=
e attempt to do one or both.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks again folks, cash is a little tight right now and we have to stretch=20=
this vehicle one more year before replacing, so hopefully I can make an econ=
omical repair.<BR>
<BR>
Steve</FONT></HTML>
Message 3
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| Subject: | 701 torque tube question! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
My drawings are 4th edition(06/2001) airframe number 7-4433
Drawing in question is 7C2.
Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward end.
This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front) and
7F11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement holds and supports the
forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from moving in an aft
direction. Correct so far?
The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2, and then
the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the tube. Still correct??
Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube off such
that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from the rear.
This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the torque tube.
Is this correct??
Thanks guys......I need to take out some clecos and replace them with rivets.
And in case anybody has trouble with fitting the seats, I used "poster paper"
from the local "We Sell For Less" world's largest retailer. It is almost
exactly the same thickness as .016 aluminum and makes mistakes easy to correct.
Did a good job on the wing tips last year, too.
Again, thanks.
Zed Smith/701/R912/N2ZS, N7ZS & N701ZS reserved (haven't decided which to
use)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">My drawings are 4th edition(06/2001) airframe number 7=
-4433<BR>
Drawing in question is 7C2.<BR>
Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward end.<BR>
This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front) and 7F=
11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement holds and s=
upports the forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from moving=
in an aft direction. Correct so far?<BR>
<BR>
The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2, and th=
en the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the tube. Stil=
l correct??<BR>
<BR>
Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube off such=20=
that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from the r=
ear.<BR>
<BR>
This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the torque tub=
e.<BR>
Is this correct??<BR>
<BR>
Thanks guys......I need to take out some clecos and replace them with rivets=
.<BR>
<BR>
And in case anybody has trouble with fitting the seats, I used "poster paper=
" from the local "We Sell For Less" world's largest retailer. It is al=
most exactly the same thickness as .016 aluminum and makes mistakes easy to=20=
correct. Did a good job on the wing tips last year, too.<BR>
<BR>
Again, thanks.<BR>
<BR>
Zed Smith/701/R912/N2ZS, N7ZS & N701ZS reserved (haven't decided which t=
o use)<BR>
<BR>
DO NOT ARCHIVE<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 701 torque tube question! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ken Szewc" <szewc@cdsnet.net>
> Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward end.
> This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front) and
> 7F11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement holds and
supports the
> forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from moving in an aft
> direction. Correct so far?
Yes
> The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2, and then
> the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the tube. Still
correct??
Yes
> Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube off
such
> that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from the
rear.
>
> This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the torque tube.
> Is this correct??
This would prevent adequate clearance of the bolt head on the Aileron rod
horn ends. I believe there should be some play in this (and someone correct
me if I am wrong) That the elevator cable tension keeps the whole assembly
pulled toward the rear and prevents it from sliding foward.
Ken Szewc
CH701SP 912S
Engine, Instruments and some Controls left to do.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Off topic Engine Cooling...Thank you |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
I've been watching this thread for a while and, while nearly everything has
already been covered, I thought I'd throw in a few of my thoughts.
The coolant cools both the engine and the transmission (if automatic). I
would check the fluid in both of these for color, a light brown or tan color
would indicate the presence of coolant indicating a leak somewhere in the
system between the coolant/lubricant interface. This could be a gasket or
crack leaking coolant into the engine oil, or a crack in the radiator
leaking coolant into the transmission fluid (rare).
Another way to check for a head gasket leak into a cylinder is to pull the
spark plugs and visually check the part that goes into the cylinder. If
there is water getting into a cylinder the plug that fires that cylinder
will be noticeably cleaner than the rest of the plugs. If the plug is
pulled a short time after the engine was running it should also have
moisture on it. This is just another suggestion to use along with all the
other good ones you already have.
If the water pump is the culprit, It should leak when the engine is running
and for a short time after it is stopped while there is pressure in the
radiator. A leaking water pump will only get worse, and sometimes
rapidly. If the water pump is leaking, let the vehicle sit with the engine
idling for a short time and a puddle will appear under the vacinity of water
pump location.
There are a LOT of variables with leaks that don't drip, but I think most of
them have been covered already. Best of luck in finding and correcting
yours.
Steve Dixon
(701/0-200----someday)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
---- Original Message -----
From: <owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Off topic Engine Cooling...Thank you
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
>
>
> Thank you to everyone for all of your suggestiions for possible causes.
It
> seems as though the concensus is the head gasket or water pump. Even
though I
> have never replaced either I will make the attempt to do one or both.
>
> Thanks again folks, cash is a little tight right now and we have to
stretch
> this vehicle one more year before replacing, so hopefully I can make an
> economical repair.
>
> Steve
>
>
> <HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
> "Arial" LANG"0">Thank you to everyone for all of your suggestiions for=
> possible causes. It seems as though the concensus is the head
gasket=20=
> or water pump. Even though I have never replaced either I will make
th=
> e attempt to do one or both.<BR>
> <BR>
> Thanks again folks, cash is a little tight right now and we have to
stretch=20=
> this vehicle one more year before replacing, so hopefully I can make an
econ=
> omical repair.<BR>
> <BR>
> Steve</FONT></HTML>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | 701 torque tube question! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann" <johann@gi.is>
Hello Zed.
The understanding in your post is not correct:
"Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube off
such
that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from the
rear".
When you cut the torque tube off for the Aileron Rod Horn, there should
be enough space behind 7C6-1 and 7C6-2 for the bolt heads for the
Bellcranks.
Look at page 8 of 8 in photo assembly guide.
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/control-flaperon2.pdf
The rudder cables will prevent the tourqe tube to move forward, when
hooked up to the rudder.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes.
Johann G.
Iceland.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 torque tube question!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
My drawings are 4th edition(06/2001) airframe number 7-4433
Drawing in question is 7C2.
Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward end.
This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front)
and
7F11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement holds and
supports the
forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from moving in an
aft
direction. Correct so far?
The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2, and
then
the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the tube. Still
correct??
Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube off
such
that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from the
rear.
This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the torque
tube.
Is this correct??
Thanks guys......I need to take out some clecos and replace them with
rivets.
And in case anybody has trouble with fitting the seats, I used "poster
paper"
from the local "We Sell For Less" world's largest retailer. It is
almost
exactly the same thickness as .016 aluminum and makes mistakes easy to
correct.
Did a good job on the wing tips last year, too.
Again, thanks.
Zed Smith/701/R912/N2ZS, N7ZS & N701ZS reserved (haven't decided which
to
use)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">My drawings are 4th edition(06/2001) airframe number 7=
-4433<BR>
Drawing in question is 7C2.<BR>
Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward
end.<BR>
This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front)
and 7F=
11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement holds
and s=
upports the forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from
moving=
in an aft direction. Correct so far?<BR>
<BR>
The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2,
and th=
en the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the tube.
Stil=
l correct??<BR>
<BR>
Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube off
such=20=
that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from
the r=
ear.<BR>
<BR>
This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the torque
tub=
e.<BR>
Is this correct??<BR>
<BR>
Thanks guys......I need to take out some clecos and replace them with
rivets=
.<BR>
<BR>
And in case anybody has trouble with fitting the seats, I used "poster
paper=
" from the local "We Sell For Less" world's largest retailer. It
is al=
most exactly the same thickness as .016 aluminum and makes mistakes easy
to=20=
correct. Did a good job on the wing tips last year, too.<BR>
<BR>
Again, thanks.<BR>
<BR>
Zed Smith/701/R912/N2ZS, N7ZS & N701ZS reserved (haven't decided
which t=
o use)<BR>
<BR>
DO NOT ARCHIVE<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 7
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|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hello friends,
We are almost ready for the final assembly... The engine and
instruments wiring, hoses and conections is almost ready (I hope).
I have looked closely to the plans but I will appreciate some close up
photos of the Jury Struts conections with the Wings and Struts.
Any of the builders pages have this photos, so I can take a look?
Maybe is easyer than I think, as all the building of the plane has
been up to here, ...I am just "thinking dificult"? :-)
Thank you all in advance.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S almost ready
601 XL still in the box!
__________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | 701 torque tube question! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Also leave enough space for the wrenches to tight the bolt. you have
enough space to spare (inside the reasonable of course). Yes with the
alerions cables installed the torque tube will stay in place.
Always remeber that old words "meassure twice, cut once", you can
(almost) always cut (or grind) a little more but is more dificult to
"add" more material...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
--- Johann <johann@gi.is> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann" <johann@gi.is>
>
> Hello Zed.
>
> The understanding in your post is not correct:
> "Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube
> off
> such
> that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from
> the
> rear".
> When you cut the torque tube off for the Aileron Rod Horn, there
> should
> be enough space behind 7C6-1 and 7C6-2 for the bolt heads for the
> Bellcranks.
> Look at page 8 of 8 in photo assembly guide.
> http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/control-flaperon2.pdf
>
> The rudder cables will prevent the tourqe tube to move forward, when
> hooked up to the rudder.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Best wishes.
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: 701 torque tube question!
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
>
>
> My drawings are 4th edition(06/2001) airframe number 7-4433
> Drawing in question is 7C2.
> Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward
> end.
> This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front)
> and
> 7F11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement holds and
> supports the
> forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from moving in
> an
> aft
> direction. Correct so far?
>
> The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2, and
> then
> the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the tube. Still
> correct??
>
> Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube
> off
> such
> that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2 from
> the
> rear.
>
> This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the torque
> tube.
> Is this correct??
>
> Thanks guys......I need to take out some clecos and replace them with
> rivets.
>
> And in case anybody has trouble with fitting the seats, I used
> "poster
> paper"
> from the local "We Sell For Less" world's largest retailer. It is
> almost
> exactly the same thickness as .016 aluminum and makes mistakes easy
> to
> correct.
> Did a good job on the wing tips last year, too.
>
> Again, thanks.
>
> Zed Smith/701/R912/N2ZS, N7ZS & N701ZS reserved (haven't decided
> which
> to
> use)
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> <HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
> "Arial" LANG"0">My drawings are 4th edition(06/2001) airframe number
> 7=
> -4433<BR>
> Drawing in question is 7C2.<BR>
> Item 2 (7C2-2), the torque tube, has a "welded ring" on the forward
> end.<BR>
> This ring fits forward of, and flush against, 7F11-1 (the seat front)
> and 7F=
> 11-2 & 7F11-3 (the two thick plates). This arrangement
> holds
> and s=
> upports the forward end of the torque tube and prevents the tube from
> moving=
> in an aft direction. Correct so far?<BR>
> <BR>
> The rear/aft end of the torque tube passes through 7F6-1 & 7F6-2,
> and th=
> en the Aileron Rod Horn (7C2-3) bolts to the aft end of the
> tube.
> Stil=
> l correct??<BR>
> <BR>
> Okay, as best I can deduce, I should cut enough of the torque tube
> off
> such=20=
> that the Aileron Rod Horn fits flush up against 7F6-1 & 7F6-2
> from
> the r=
> ear.<BR>
> <BR>
> This arrangement would prevent any fore & aft movement of the
> torque
> tub=
> e.<BR>
> Is this correct??<BR>
> <BR>
> Thanks guys......I need to take out some clecos and replace them with
> rivets=
> .<BR>
> <BR>
> And in case anybody has trouble with fitting the seats, I used
> "poster
> paper=
> " from the local "We Sell For Less" world's largest retailer.
> It
> is al=
> most exactly the same thickness as .016 aluminum and makes mistakes
> easy
> to=20=
> correct. Did a good job on the wing tips last year, too.<BR>
> <BR>
> Again, thanks.<BR>
> <BR>
> Zed Smith/701/R912/N2ZS, N7ZS & N701ZS reserved (haven't decided
> which t=
> o use)<BR>
> <BR>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE<BR>
> </FONT></HTML>
>
>
> ==
> ==
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> ==
> ==
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 9
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| Subject: | 701 Stabilizer mounting details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ken Szewc" <szewc@cdsnet.net>
I cannot seem to find the details of how to connect the stabilizer to
the fuselage. The rudder is detailed very nicely. Is there a page in the
plans that I am missing?
All of the drawings seem to show the top level with the fuselage. Is
this correct?
How much distance off of the fuselage should it be?
Thanks in advance
Ken
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<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I cannot seem to find the details of
how to connect
the stabilizer to the fuselage. The rudder is detailed very nicely. Is
there a
page in the plans that I am missing?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>All of the drawings seem to show the
top level with
the fuselage. Is this correct?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>How much distance off of the fuselage
should it
be?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Thanks in advance</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Ken</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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