Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - Re: painting 701 (Dabusmith@aol.com)
2. 03:56 AM - Re: 601 Early Flight Update (Frank Jones)
3. 04:06 AM - Re: Sealing Wing Lockers 601XL (Grant Corriveau)
4. 04:13 AM - Re: Drilling holes for the motor mount (Grant Corriveau)
5. 04:33 AM - Re: 601 Early Flight Update (Grant Corriveau)
6. 05:53 AM - Re: Re: painting 701 (Scott Laughlin)
7. 08:01 AM - Re: Copperstate 2003 (Doug Waer)
8. 08:01 AM - Re: Copperstate 2003 (Doug Waer)
9. 10:48 AM - 912S (Dave Pepper)
10. 11:19 AM - Re: 601 Early Flight Update (Frank Jones)
11. 12:12 PM - 912S installation (Dave Alberti)
12. 06:39 PM - Re: Sealing Wing Lockers 601XL (WAYNE BEATTIE)
13. 08:32 PM - Re: Copperstate 2003 (Rick Pitcher)
14. 08:39 PM - Re: 912S (Rick Pitcher)
15. 11:17 PM - enlogated elevator mount holes was--> Re: 601 Early (xl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: painting 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
>Almost time to
paint. Need the groups input. Not looking for a show plane
I painted my 701 in my gravel driveway. Even though it was too hot and windy
it came out fine.
My routine. ( I am an amateur)
1) Wash with laundry detergent and scotch bright wrapped in 280 grit sand
paper.
2) Wash again with Alumaprep (etching acid) diluted with water and scotch
bright.
3) Dry overnight. No trapped water.
4) Using wax and grease remover from the auto paint store, wipe the surface.
Use a
clean cloth to wipe it off before the solvent dries. ( I liked the blue
paper towels for
this)
5) Just before spraying, gently run a store bought tack cloth over the
surface.
If you paint outside, try to paint between 9-10. Before the bugs get out. If
it is warm enough. The poly doesn't seem to be sensitive to humidity but it
will blush if it gets cold I shuffled the painted parts quickly into the garage.
Had hangers waiting.
A diaphragm type regulator and water separator is needed. I used a 3m
respirator.
I used a $19 HPLV gun with the cup on top and a 115v 3HP 30gl compressor. I
had to wait on the compressor quite a bit. The nice thing about the top cup is
it will shoot the smallest amount of paint until it is completely empty. It is
easy to clean up with much less solvent. Very little overspray also. The bad
thing is the cup gets heavy when it is full. I used zinc chromate inside the
wings and tail. I used epoxy inside the fuselage. I didn't know if the zinc
chromate was safe to have inside the fuse. Outside I used epoxy primer and
polyurethane top coat.
Good luck
Dave Smith
N701XL 912S Waiting for airworthiness inspection
Graham, WA.
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">>Almost time to<BR>
paint. Need the groups input. Not looking for a show plane<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
I painted my 701 in my gravel driveway. Even though it was too hot and windy=
it came out fine.<BR>
<BR>
My routine. ( I am an amateur)<BR>
<BR>
1) Wash with laundry detergent and scotch bright wrapped in 280 grit sand pa=
per.<BR>
<BR>
2) Wash again with Alumaprep (etching acid) diluted with water and scotch br=
ight.<BR>
<BR>
3) Dry overnight. No trapped water.<BR>
<BR>
4) Using wax and grease remover from the auto paint store, wipe the surface.=
Use a <BR>
clean cloth to wipe it off before the solvent dries. ( I=20=
liked the blue paper towels for <BR>
this)<BR>
5) Just before spraying, gently run a store bought tack cloth over the surfa=
ce.<BR>
<BR>
If you paint outside, try to paint between 9-10. Before the bugs get out. If=
it is warm enough. The poly doesn't seem to be sensitive to humidity but it=
will blush if it gets cold I shuffled the painted parts quickly into the ga=
rage. Had hangers waiting.<BR>
A diaphragm type regulator and water separator is needed. I used a 3m respir=
ator.<BR>
I used a $19 HPLV gun with the cup on top and a 115v 3HP 30gl compressor. I=20=
had to wait on the compressor quite a bit. The nice thing about the top cup=20=
is it will shoot the smallest amount of paint until it is completely empty.=20=
It is easy to clean up with much less solvent. Very little overspray also. T=
he bad thing is the cup gets heavy when it is full. I used zinc chromate ins=
ide the wings and tail. I used epoxy inside the fuselage. I didn't know if t=
he zinc chromate was safe to have inside the fuse. Outside I used epoxy prim=
er and polyurethane top coat. <BR>
Good luck<BR>
Dave Smith<BR>
N701XL 912S Waiting for airworthiness inspection<BR>
Graham, WA.<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
Message 2
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| Subject: | 601 Early Flight Update |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
> My problem is that I don't know if I'm using all of my trim because of
my slow cruise (90-95 mph), or a slight misalignment of the horizontal
stab.
Randy,
I took pictures from both sides with my digital camera, being careful to
align with the plane of the stabilizer. I then imported these into Visio
and drew a line through the stabilizer and through the rivet line on the
longeron. Visio shows you the angle of lines you draw, so I subtracted
the two, and over the many photos I came up with a range of .5 to .8
degrees. Might be worth trying on yours just so you know.
Frank
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Wing Lockers 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>... The question is probably more of what do you want to keep
> dry in there and approach that issue.
> Larry
Sailing/Marine/Outdoor stores sell large sealable, heavy duty plastic bags
designed to keep stuff dry on boats etc.... One of these would do the trick
and probably save a lot of time. If the wing locker were actually water
(i.e. also air?) tight, could there be other problems with condensation,
humidity, expansion/contraction of air during rapid climb/descents, and the
like?
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling holes for the motor mount |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> One problem is I don't know how to match drill 4 3/8 inch holes through thin
> metal.
>> The 3/8 inch drill won't center in thin material. >
I found that the 'multi bit' or unibit (it has various names) was much
easier to keep centered for drilling larger holes, than a conventional drill
bit. It also ensured a rounder hole and not the 'triangle' that can result
if a regular bit starts vibrating in the hole.
Grant
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Early Flight Update |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
Frank, .5 to .8 doesn't sound like a big deal (how did you measure it so
accurately??). I hope you don't mind if I suggest some things that you may
have already considered and checked...
Before you get into the structural job, are you certain it's necessary?
Have you been able to observe the physical position of the elevator in
flight? What are the symptoms that indicate you need more nose UP trim?
(i.e. are you running out of UP authority on the elevator in cruise? Then
there's definitely a problem -- but is it an elevator problem or a trim
problem or a balance problem?... Or are you running out of UP trim at slow
speed? In which case 'how slow?' -- you don't really want to be able to trim
much below approach speed anyways).
What is the physical location (angle) of the elevator in cruise?
What is the physical location (angle) of the trim?
How does this 'in cruise' trim point compare to the range you have available
on the tab, and it's fullup vs. fulldown position?
Have you double checked the aircraft Weight and balance envelope?
fwiw,
Grant
> From: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
> Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 21:44:53 -0400
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: 601 Early Flight Update
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
>
> I just wanted to keep everyone abreast of the latest on C-GYXQ. So far
> 3.7 hours logged. In general it flys very well. Issues: 1) oil temp
> still at max on RPM any greater than 5000 for any length of time. I'm
> adding an extra duct to the oil cooler shroud and sealing the liquid
> cooler better. We'll see what that does. 2) Trim - requires more nose up
> trim. On analysis I have found that the horizontal stabilizer is leading
> edge up by about .5 to .8 degrees. I'm going to adjust this by doubling
> the rear attach plate and moving the rear attach bolts up 4mm or so.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: painting 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
One bit of advice I have not seen on the previous posts - wet the ground
around your project to limit dust right before you paint. Especially on a
gravel driveway! Even if you are in a garage, just wet the floor before you
paint and you won't stir up any dust while walking around to paint. You can
even wet the walls if you want to really eliminate dust.
Also, try to manage your hose prior to painting. Dragging a hose across wet
paint will ruin your day.
Good luck,
Scott Laughlin
Z601XL/Corvair
www.cooknwithgas.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Dabusmith@aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: painting 701
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
>Almost time to
paint. Need the groups input. Not looking for a show plane
I painted my 701 in my gravel driveway. Even though it was too hot and windy
it came out fine.
My routine. ( I am an amateur)
1) Wash with laundry detergent and scotch bright wrapped in 280 grit sand
paper.
2) Wash again with Alumaprep (etching acid) diluted with water and scotch
bright.
3) Dry overnight. No trapped water.
4) Using wax and grease remover from the auto paint store, wipe the surface.
Use a
clean cloth to wipe it off before the solvent dries. ( I liked the blue
paper towels for
this)
5) Just before spraying, gently run a store bought tack cloth over the
surface.
If you paint outside, try to paint between 9-10. Before the bugs get out. If
it is warm enough. The poly doesn't seem to be sensitive to humidity but it
will blush if it gets cold I shuffled the painted parts quickly into the
garage.
Had hangers waiting.
A diaphragm type regulator and water separator is needed. I used a 3m
respirator.
I used a $19 HPLV gun with the cup on top and a 115v 3HP 30gl compressor. I
had to wait on the compressor quite a bit. The nice thing about the top cup
is
it will shoot the smallest amount of paint until it is completely empty. It
is
easy to clean up with much less solvent. Very little overspray also. The bad
thing is the cup gets heavy when it is full. I used zinc chromate inside the
wings and tail. I used epoxy inside the fuselage. I didn't know if the zinc
chromate was safe to have inside the fuse. Outside I used epoxy primer and
polyurethane top coat.
Good luck
Dave Smith
N701XL 912S Waiting for airworthiness inspection
Graham, WA.
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">>Almost time to<BR>
paint. Need the groups input. Not looking for a show plane<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
I painted my 701 in my gravel driveway. Even though it was too hot and
windy=
it came out fine.<BR>
<BR>
My routine. ( I am an amateur)<BR>
<BR>
1) Wash with laundry detergent and scotch bright wrapped in 280 grit sand
pa=
per.<BR>
<BR>
2) Wash again with Alumaprep (etching acid) diluted with water and scotch
br=
ight.<BR>
<BR>
3) Dry overnight. No trapped water.<BR>
<BR>
4) Using wax and grease remover from the auto paint store, wipe the
surface.=
Use a <BR>
clean cloth to wipe it off before the solvent dries. (
I=20=
liked the blue paper towels for <BR>
this)<BR>
5) Just before spraying, gently run a store bought tack cloth over the
surfa=
ce.<BR>
<BR>
If you paint outside, try to paint between 9-10. Before the bugs get out.
If=
it is warm enough. The poly doesn't seem to be sensitive to humidity but
it=
will blush if it gets cold I shuffled the painted parts quickly into the
ga=
rage. Had hangers waiting.<BR>
A diaphragm type regulator and water separator is needed. I used a 3m
respir=
ator.<BR>
I used a $19 HPLV gun with the cup on top and a 115v 3HP 30gl compressor.
I=20=
had to wait on the compressor quite a bit. The nice thing about the top
cup=20=
is it will shoot the smallest amount of paint until it is completely
empty.=20=
It is easy to clean up with much less solvent. Very little overspray also.
T=
he bad thing is the cup gets heavy when it is full. I used zinc chromate
ins=
ide the wings and tail. I used epoxy inside the fuselage. I didn't know if
t=
he zinc chromate was safe to have inside the fuse. Outside I used epoxy
prim=
er and polyurethane top coat. <BR>
Good luck<BR>
Dave Smith<BR>
N701XL 912S Waiting for airworthiness inspection<BR>
Graham, WA.<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate 2003 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Doug Waer <dwaer@yahoo.com>
Ditto. I'll be attending but by car. I'll probably be there on saturday.
Doug
601HDS
--- n282rs <n282rs@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "n282rs" <n282rs@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> >
> > Is anyone going to Copperstate this year?
> > http://www.copperstate.org/airshow.htm
>
> I'm planning on stopping there on my way to Las Vegas. Should be there on
> Friday. Unfortunately, I'll be driving instead of flying.
>
> Randy Stout
> VW powered CH 601 HD
> n282rs@sbcglobal.net
> http://www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21/index.html
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Douglas Waer :: Boeing Helicopter Systems :: Mesa, AZ :: 85215
http://members.cox.net/dwaer/flying.html
__________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate 2003 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Doug Waer <dwaer@yahoo.com>
Ditto. I'll be attending, but by car. I'll probably be there on saturday.
Doug
601HDS
--- n282rs <n282rs@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "n282rs" <n282rs@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> >
> > Is anyone going to Copperstate this year?
> > http://www.copperstate.org/airshow.htm
>
> I'm planning on stopping there on my way to Las Vegas. Should be there on
> Friday. Unfortunately, I'll be driving instead of flying.
>
> Randy Stout
> VW powered CH 601 HD
> n282rs@sbcglobal.net
> http://www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21/index.html
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Douglas Waer :: Boeing Helicopter Systems :: Mesa, AZ :: 85215
http://members.cox.net/dwaer/flying.html
__________________________________
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Pepper" <rockinrimranch@earthlink.net>
Upon reading the 912S installation manual, the engine is supposed to
include a fuel manifold, with all fuel lines connected from the engine
fuel pump through the manifold, to the carbs. My brand new engine has no
such manifold or any fuel lines connected at all. It just has a fuel
pump located on the gearbox, with plugs on the outlets!
The manual states that an airbox and air filter is fitted to the
engine.....My engine has no such airbox! There is also no installation
bracket for the oil tank.
The installation instructions are so incomplete and difficult to
understand that I'm totally lost. For the outrageous price of almost
$12,000, I can't believe that parts which are supposed to be included
are completely missing. Are all these things extra?
Does anyone have any comments about how to proceed with engine
installation?
Dave "Way Out of my League" Pepper
601HD 90%
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1264" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Upon reading the 912S installation
manual, the
engine is supposed to include a fuel manifold, with all fuel lines
connected
from the engine fuel pump through the manifold, to the carbs. My brand
new
engine has no such manifold or any fuel lines connected at all. It just
has a
fuel pump located on the gearbox, with plugs on the
outlets!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>The manual states that an airbox and
air filter is
fitted to the engine.....My engine has no such airbox! There is also no
installation bracket for the oil tank.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>The installation instructions are so
incomplete
and difficult to understand that I'm totally lost. For the
outrageous price
of almost $12,000, I can't believe that parts which are supposed to be
included
are completely missing. Are all these things extra? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Does anyone have any comments about how
to proceed
with engine installation?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Dave "Way Out of my League"
Pepper</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>601HD 90%</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 10
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| Subject: | 601 Early Flight Update |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
Grant,
Thanks for the questions.
> (how did you measure it so accurately??).
I posted this earlier: I took pictures from both sides with my digital
camera, being careful to align with the plane of the stabilizer. I then
imported these into Visio and drew a line through the stabilizer and
through the rivet line on the longeron. Visio shows you the angle of
lines you draw, so I subtracted the two, and over the many photos I came
up with a range of .5 to .8 degrees.
> What are the symptoms that indicate you need more nose UP trim?
I want to be able to fly the plane only with trim if necessary (ie. If a
cable breaks). I'm finding I still need more nose up trim when the tab
is max'd out in downward deflection. I haven't visually inspected the
elevator in straight and level, but I believe it is clearly up a bit.
> How does this 'in cruise' trim point compare to the range you have
available on the tab, and it's fullup vs. fulldown position?
In flight I set the tab to have balanced control for straight and level
at normal cruise, and left it there until landing. Post landing
inspection shows the tab substantially deflected down (not quite max but
close).
> Have you double checked the aircraft Weight and balance envelope?
W&B is inside the envelope, pretty much in the middle. I believe the
.5-.8 degree loft on the hstab is the main contributing factor.
The change to the attach point is pretty easy really, just need to move
the rear holes up 3.7mm. This will involve elongating the holes. I'll
then use a stainless washer with a bent tab (kindof like on a bicycle
wheel) to keep the bolt in position. Should be no need for a doubler.
Message 11
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| Subject: | 912S installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
Blank
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Alberti [mailto:daberti@execpc.com]
Subject: 912S
Dave,
I ordered the firewall forward package with my 912S from Zenith. It came
complete with the airbox and exhaust system. I think they also included some
fuel line and some T connectors. The fuel connection described in the
manual is only used on the certificated version of the engine and has
totally different connections to the carbs. I ran my lines from the
gascolator to a auxiliary electric pump then to the rotax pump then a filter
and finally a T to split to the individual carbs. They were all push on
barb type connectors with hose clamps. One other thing, If you made the
throttle to the plans it wont clear the 912S airbox. I extended mine about 2
inches to provide the clearance and it seems to work fine but I only have 4
hours (surgery on my foot is keeping me from flying). I can send you all
kinds of photos if you like, but they are large files and will be slow to
down load.
Good luck proceeding
Dave
N8513Z 601-HD 912S
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE idridTitle>Blank</TITLE>
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<BODY idridBody backgroundcid:530365018@07102003-20b0>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV classOutlookMessageHeader dirltr alignleft><FONT
faceTahoma
size2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Dave Alberti
[mailto:daberti@execpc.com]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, October 07, 2003
2:03
PM<BR><B>To:</B> rockinrimranch@earthlink.net<BR><B>Subject:</B>
912S<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<P><SPAN class530365018-07102003>Dave,</SPAN></P>
<P><SPAN class530365018-07102003>I ordered the firewall forward
package with my
912S from Zenith. It came complete with the airbox and exhaust
system. I
think they also included some fuel line and some T connectors. The
fuel
connection described in the manual is only used on the certificated
version of
the engine and has totally different connections to the carbs. I
ran my
lines from the gascolator to a auxiliary electric pump then to the rotax
pump
then a filter and finally a T to split to the individual carbs.
They were
all push on barb type connectors with hose clamps. One other
thing, If you
made the throttle to the plans it wont clear the 912S airbox. I extended
mine
about 2 inches to provide the clearance and it seems to work fine but I
only
have 4 hours (surgery on my foot is keeping me from flying). I can
send
you all kinds of photos if you like, but they are large files and will
be slow
to down load.</SPAN></P>
<P><SPAN class530365018-07102003>Good luck proceeding </SPAN></P>
<P><SPAN class530365018-07102003>Dave</SPAN></P>
<P><SPAN class530365018-07102003>N8513Z 601-HD
912S</SPAN></P></BODY></HTML>
name="Blank Bkgrd.gif"
R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2
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xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw==
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Wing Lockers 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: WAYNE BEATTIE <waynebeattie@optonline.net>
If your wing is painted white, you may try white electrical tape as found in
Home Depot. All of the racers use it so it has been proven to hold at speed.
I've had tape over mine parked outside for 5 months now and it is still
solidly in place and no water has gotten into the lockers.
Doesn't look to bad against the white background of the wing.
Wayne N601WB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sealing Wing Lockers 601XL
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Gig, I didn't get there yet (I'm assembling the wing skeleton), but I
intend to use a different
> kind of hinge with automotive rubber gasket. I want to be able to seal the
locker (as in
> "watertight").
>
> Pictures at this site ilustrate the hinge I'm talking about (Dan
Checkoway's RV project):
> http://www.rvproject.com/20030920.html
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans.
> Tail done, wing spars done; assembling O/B wing skeletons.
>
> > I'm considering a rubber gasket that would go under the skins and over
> > the hinges. Any other ideas or reasons that this wouldn't work?
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate 2003 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Pitcher <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
No fly-ins so far huh?
I see from the exhibitors list that Zenith is gonna be there. I hope
they bring more that just pamphlets, I'd sure like to get a ride.
Hmmmm..... maybe I'd better call 'em and see if I can reserve a time slot.
Rick P.
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Pitcher <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
Dave Pepper wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Pepper" <rockinrimranch@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Upon reading the 912S installation manual, the engine is supposed to
> include a fuel manifold, with all fuel lines connected from the engine
> fuel pump through the manifold, to the carbs. My brand new engine has no
> such manifold or any fuel lines connected at all. It just has a fuel
> pump located on the gearbox, with plugs on the outlets!
>
> The manual states that an airbox and air filter is fitted to the
> engine.....My engine has no such airbox! There is also no installation
> bracket for the oil tank.
>
> The installation instructions are so incomplete and difficult to
> understand that I'm totally lost. For the outrageous price of almost
> $12,000, I can't believe that parts which are supposed to be included
> are completely missing. Are all these things extra?
>
> Does anyone have any comments about how to proceed with engine
> installation?
>
> Dave "Way Out of my League" Pepper
> 601HD 90%
Did you try thr "builder's only section" on the ZAC website?
They have a bunch of color photo assembly guides for the Rotax 912 and
the Jabiru 3300 engine installations. They're in with the "XL" updates,
but they apply to the "HD" too.
Rick P.
http://www.lightflyers.com/Wingmate.html
Message 15
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Flight Update
Flight Update
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
I hope that you are joking.
I am not an aeronautical engineer.
I'm just a another stranger on the bus.
I'm finishing up my 601XL (set back by a canopy crack).
Enlongated holes are not good.
Imagine the bolt moving up and down - and failing.
Why can't you drill out the mount plate and rivet a longer one.
I'm not real happy with the size of the mounts in the first place.
I am trusting the designer and the 200+ planes flying.
I would not weaken what is there in any case.
enlongated holes .+.+.+.+.+.+.+.+.+.shudder.+.+.+.+.+.+.+.+.+.
My opinion, Joe
On Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Frank Jones wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
> Grant,
> .....snip ................snip
>
> The change to the attach point is pretty easy really, just need to move
> the rear holes up 3.7mm. This will involve elongating the holes. I'll
> then use a stainless washer with a bent tab (kindof like on a bicycle
> wheel) to keep the bolt in position. Should be no need for a doubler.
>
>
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