Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:21 AM - Re: cold-weather building (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
2. 05:00 AM - Re: Rotax / Bombardier (Phil Raker)
3. 05:50 AM - hEATING SKIN IN COLD WEATHER BUILDING (Thomas F Marson)
4. 07:12 AM - 701 construction details (H. Robert Schoenberger)
5. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Rotax / Bombardier (Grant Corriveau)
6. 08:08 AM - Re: 701 construction details (Grant Corriveau)
7. 08:16 AM - Re: 701 construction details (Jon Croke)
8. 08:45 AM - Re: 701 construction details (Paul Riedlinger)
9. 10:01 AM - Re: construction details (Dabusmith@aol.com)
10. 10:07 AM - LOC? - What's That? (Matt Dralle)
11. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: construction details (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
12. 02:28 PM - Re: New 912 prices! (Thomas Zink)
13. 07:57 PM - Temporarily crossing over (Jon Croke)
14. 08:51 PM - Re: Temporarily crossing over (Larry McFarland)
15. 09:04 PM - 601 Sliding Canopy- Possible? (Dr. Perry Morrison)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: cold-weather building |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
The entire structure is made of the same material and should expand and contract
at the same rate. Heating the skins warmer than the frame will cause it to be
under tension under all conditions. This might reduce the chance of wrinkles,
but you might have to reheat the skin during final assembly in order to get the
rivets in.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Mineart" <smineart@kdsi.net>
>
> Maybe some of you northerners can answer this: if I press on building my
> wings in my 40-degree garage, will my wing skins look saggy sitting out in
> the 100-degree heat some day? I notice that RV builders heat their skins
> to
> install them sometimes.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax / Bombardier |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Phil Raker <phadr1@yahoo.com>
Dave, based upon my sources of information (inside Bombardier Inc. and from The
Wall Street Journal), your facts are completely correct. Let me just add that
Rotax is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Bombardier Recreational Products.
Several years ago, they were purchased by Bombardier, "lock, stock, & barrel",
not just a percentage. While their greatest number of engines may go into
snowmobiles, ATVs, & PWCs, they make a fine line of engines of all sorts which
are used in many types of products all around the world (and even parts of
Canada).
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~80% completed
(would probably be buying a 912S if I didn't already have the Stratus)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
> With the general misinformation floating about on the list I thought I would
> pass on a few facts.
__________________________________
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | hEATING SKIN IN COLD WEATHER BUILDING |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
I looked up this his subject in "21 YEARS OF THE RVATOR". It was discussed at
length as well as methods for accomplishing this heating uniformly.
The main thrust of this (conclusions) was that it is very difficult to do "uniformly"
and further that if the underlying structure was not extremely rigid then
the temp cools the aluminum will simply shrink when it cools and pull the structure
with it.
Overall impression I got from the writers of that article who had themselves devised
a way to progressively heat and then rivet as they moved along skinning
wings is that it was a lot of trouble and probably wouldn't accomplish the "smooth
win in a hot sun" look they were searching for.
At best it would be ineffective-----------at worst it could introduce lots of warps
into the structure.
I guess I would not do it.
Tom Marson
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 701 construction details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "H. Robert Schoenberger" <HRS4@prodigy.net>
List . . . I'm up to the wing tip construction on my 701 right wing and have four
questions:
1. The photo manual shows the wingtip assembly being held with the 3/32" (silver)
clecos, yet the plans call for A4's. Am I missing something?
2. I'm installing the optional cover over the fuel tanks which will be held down
by the A4 rivets in the spar, the flanges of ribs 1 and 2, and the rear channel
behind the fuel tank. I am thinking of putting a small plate over the fuel
sender to be held on by rivnuts. I am not familiar with rivnuts, but my understanding
is that a special riveting tool is required to install it - sort of
a threaded casing with pop rivet features. Is this accurate? Any thoughts
on what size in this location? What keeps the bolts from working loose due to
vibration?
3. This is really a basic question, but I haven't had much experience soldering
wires together. In hooking up the wires in the wingtip for the the strobe/nav
lites, how does one solder 2 or 3 wires together with the absolute assurance
they will hold? I have the Aeroelectric manual, but they don't say much about
this. Should I run the wires through some sort of mechanical device such
the butt end of a ring terminal and crimp it for strength, and then soldier together
the wires that stick through? And then cover the entire connection with
heat shrink tubing.
4. What are others using for a quick disconnect of the wing wires where the wing
attaches to the fus?
Thanks for your help. Hap Schoenberger 701 tail completed, 90% of right wing
completed. Have a quality day!
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax / Bombardier |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>... they make a fine line of engines of all sorts which
> are used in many types of products all around the world (and even parts of
> Canada).
And it's the only UL engine to fly from Slovenia to Montreal (eastward!)...
and soon (?) to be the first UL engine to complete a single-pilot VFR
circling of the globe...
http://www.rtvslo.si/protisoncu/
(I think there's an english version in there somewhere ;-)
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 701 construction details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> From: "H. Robert Schoenberger" <HRS4@prodigy.net>
...
> I haven't had much experience soldering wires together. In hooking up the
> wires in the wingtip for the the strobe/nav lites, how does one solder 2 or 3
> wires together with the absolute assurance they will hold? I have the
> Aeroelectric manual, but they don't say much about this.
Check the Aeroelectric online site. There are good articles about crimping
devices to join wire ends. Once properly crimped no soldering is necessary
and may actually be detrimental (too brittle).
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 701 construction details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "H. Robert Schoenberger"
<HRS4@prodigy.net>
>
> 1. The photo manual shows the wingtip assembly being held with the 3/32"
(silver) clecos, yet the plans call for A4's. Am I missing something?
The assembly manual will have you drill pilot holes ALWAYS in size 3/32
(silver) before making the final hole sizes (A4 or A5). So every time in a
picture you see this, they have simply made their pilot holes prior to final
drilling.
>
> 2. I'm installing the optional cover over the fuel tanks which will be
held down by the A4 rivets in the spar, the flanges of ribs 1 and 2, and the
rear channel behind the fuel tank. I am thinking of putting a small plate
over the fuel sender to be held on by rivnuts. I am not familiar with
rivnuts, but my understanding is that a special riveting tool is required to
install it - sort of a threaded casing with pop rivet features. Is this
accurate? Any thoughts on what size in this location? What keeps the bolts
from working loose due to vibration?
The SIMPLEST and QUICKEST install of generic 'nutplates' is that rivnut tool
you mention (about $30 I think) as there is just ONE hole to drill and then
you rivnut the special piece in. However, some will tell you that these
will 'spin' or slip if you over tighten the screw... and then it will be
hard to remove the screw. (I added a drop or two of epoxy between the skin
and rivnut stem to prevent this from ever occuring). If you dont mind
drilling three holes, a conventional nutplate is better.. but I vote for
rivnuts in areas that are not opened all that often. If you experiment with
one rivnut, this explanation will make sense. I used 8-32 sizes in my
access cover installations. For my sender covers, I simply riveted the cover
in place...no rivnuts... how often are you really going to open that? I can
pop rivets off faster than four screws! Everyone has their opinion about
these matters... no right or wrong choices!
>
> 3. This is really a basic question, but I haven't had much experience
soldering wires together. In hooking up the wires in the wingtip for the
the strobe/nav lites, how does one solder 2 or 3 wires together with the
absolute assurance they will hold? I have the Aeroelectric manual, but they
don't say much about this. Should I run the wires through some sort of
mechanical device such the butt end of a ring terminal and crimp it for
strength, and then soldier together the wires that stick through? And then
cover the entire connection with heat shrink tubing.
Take Aeroelectric advise... those crimp splice things are just fine by
themselves... why solder?? If you have selected the proper size crimp
device, you can slip multiple wires in each end and actually join 4 wires
together. No need for soldering at all. Make sure you are using the GOOD
crimp devices, not the Radio Shack or Napa ones... there is a huge
difference you can see in their construction. Make sure you are using a
quality, ratcheting crimper if you dont have experience with the cheap
kinds.
> 4. What are others using for a quick disconnect of the wing wires where
the wing attaches to the fus?
>
Lots of choices here... generic plugs from Radio Shack.. or they make
'knife blade' disconnects that crimp on wire ends...or.. the most fool proof
is to not use anything... if you have to take the wing off, cut the wires..
and reconnect with those crimp splice connectors!
Be sure to get more opinions on all of the above...just dont ask me about
throttle cables!
Having a finished wing means that you are now an expert at building a second
wing! And you need 2 of these anyway!
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 701 construction details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried@rogers.com>
If I remember my info from the EAA Electrical forum correctly, you would not
solder the wires together since it will make the wires brittle.
Paul Riedlinger
paulried@rogers.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "H. Robert Schoenberger" <HRS4@prodigy.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 construction details
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "H. Robert Schoenberger"
<HRS4@prodigy.net>
>
> List . . . I'm up to the wing tip construction on my 701 right wing and
have four questions:
>
> 1. The photo manual shows the wingtip assembly being held with the 3/32"
(silver) clecos, yet the plans call for A4's. Am I missing something?
>
> 2. I'm installing the optional cover over the fuel tanks which will be
held down by the A4 rivets in the spar, the flanges of ribs 1 and 2, and the
rear channel behind the fuel tank. I am thinking of putting a small plate
over the fuel sender to be held on by rivnuts. I am not familiar with
rivnuts, but my understanding is that a special riveting tool is required to
install it - sort of a threaded casing with pop rivet features. Is this
accurate? Any thoughts on what size in this location? What keeps the bolts
from working loose due to vibration?
>
> 3. This is really a basic question, but I haven't had much experience
soldering wires together. In hooking up the wires in the wingtip for the
the strobe/nav lites, how does one solder 2 or 3 wires together with the
absolute assurance they will hold? I have the Aeroelectric manual, but they
don't say much about this. Should I run the wires through some sort of
mechanical device such the butt end of a ring terminal and crimp it for
strength, and then soldier together the wires that stick through? And then
cover the entire connection with heat shrink tubing.
>
> 4. What are others using for a quick disconnect of the wing wires where
the wing attaches to the fus?
>
> Thanks for your help. Hap Schoenberger 701 tail completed, 90% of right
wing completed. Have a quality day!
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: construction details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
>wires in the wingtip for the strobe/nav lites
Hap
The Molex style connectors they sell at Radio Shack work fine. If there is a
problem it is a good place to be able to troubleshoot with a meter. Make sure
your grounds are installed correctly. The electric list is a great list. I
wish I had subscribed to it long before now. They might have better connectors
to
recommend!
My right strobe is inop. I didn't know I was supposed to apply half voltage
to it first if the power supply had been dormant for a long period of time. It
can lose its polarity after no usage for months and then over heat during use.
That is likely what happened to mine. Mine worked for a few weeks after final
assembly. Then I had to replace the flash tube and it worked for a few days.
Now it doesn't work but the flash tube will work on the other side. I haven't
put any inspection panels in my wing yet. What size panel will I need to
remove my power supply from my wing tip? Has anyone asked Zenair about inspection
panel placement? Number of fasteners?
Dave Smith
N701XL 28 hr. and loving it!
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | LOC? - What's That? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is a directory of everyone's name that made
a Contribution during this year's List Fund Raiser. Its kind of my way of
publicly thanking everyone that so generously made a Contribution to
support the continued operation and upgrade of these Email Lists. This
year's List of Contributors is just around the corner; I'll be posting the
it on or about December 1.
Support your Lists today and make sure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC! Your friends will be checking, no doubt, to see if YOU make your
Contribution because THEY did! :-)
Support Contribution Info - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: construction details |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I found the Aeroflash power supplies don't hold up. There is a BIG capacitor
in there...it costs about $10 from a components store and takes an hour to
fit...If you can get to your power supplies of course.
Fourtunatly mine are behind the seats..
Frank
601HDS Stratus (with Ram heads) 310 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dabusmith@aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: construction details
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
>wires in the wingtip for the strobe/nav lites
Hap
The Molex style connectors they sell at Radio Shack work fine. If there is a
problem it is a good place to be able to troubleshoot with a meter. Make
sure
your grounds are installed correctly. The electric list is a great list. I
wish I had subscribed to it long before now. They might have better
connectors to
recommend!
My right strobe is inop. I didn't know I was supposed to apply half voltage
to it first if the power supply had been dormant for a long period of time.
It
can lose its polarity after no usage for months and then over heat during
use.
That is likely what happened to mine. Mine worked for a few weeks after
final
assembly. Then I had to replace the flash tube and it worked for a few days.
Now it doesn't work but the flash tube will work on the other side. I
haven't
put any inspection panels in my wing yet. What size panel will I need to
remove my power supply from my wing tip? Has anyone asked Zenair about
inspection
panel placement? Number of fasteners?
Dave Smith
N701XL 28 hr. and loving it!
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New 912 prices! |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 17:26:43 -0500
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas Zink" <SunlightAviation@msn.com>
Its nice to see these aircraft with Rotax engines flying around with a few hundred
hours here and there. I hope they will stand the test of time. My Cubs and
Champs have been time tested since 1939 and 1946 with a Continental up front
and my 172 with an O-300 has been chugging along for a little more than 6000 hours
with only 2 majors. I saw new 0200's at OSH for around 13 grand. I have nothing
against the Jabiru's or the Rotax but I do like time tested (decades) and
proven (thousands of hours in thousands of aircraft) machinery. That is the
main reason I selected this design to build.
Thom Zink
601XL 0235/125hp
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Alberti
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: New 912 prices!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
With the general misinformation floating about on the list I thought I would
pass on a few facts.
1. The 912 and 914 are the smaller of the 912 series of AIRCRAFT PURPOSE
BUILT engines. The 912S has a larger displacement and higher compression
than the others. The 914 generates more horsepower with the addition of the
turbocharger.
2. There is nothing similar between the Rotax snowmobile engines and the
Rotax engines specified by Zenith for installation in the 601 family of
aircraft.
3. They (Rotax) offer a certificated version of each type, if you care to
spend as much as they charge for a Continental or Lycoming Engine (There is
no difference in the parts or manufacturing process).
4. Bombardier, which is based in Montreal, reached an agreement to sell the
Recreational Products Division to a corporation formed by entities including
Bain Capital and members of its founding Bombardier family for 1.23 billion
Canadian dollars, or $879.1 million. Bain Capital will hold 50 percent
interest in the acquiring corporation, and the Bombardier family will hold
35 percent interest. The Caisse de depot et placement du Quebec, a financial
institution that manages funds for public and private pension and insurance
plans, will hold a 15 percent stake.
5. It's the innovation of companies like Rotax and Jabaru and some of the
auto conversions that make building reliable homebuilts more affordable.
6. And yes, they still need to make a profit too! That's economics.
Dave
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Pepper
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New 912 prices!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Pepper"
<rockinrimranch@earthlink.net>
>
> Could be the only reason that Bombardier sees a market for these engines
> at all is because they can get a high profit margin on them. Force them
> to drop their prices and they might decide not to sell them at all.
Oh Bombardier will continue to sell the 914.....which, I understand, is the
engine that powers the unmanned drone that goes around the world firing
missiles at people that Bush doesn't like! And we all know the military
overpays for everything because the taxpayer gets to foot the bill for every
little toy the military wants, so this is gold mine for Bombardier. The 912
is the smaller brother of the 914, so why not keep homebuilt market wrapped
up along with the military.
> Bought a new engine from Lycoming or Continental lately? An O-200 new
> from Continental is $19K. Kinda makes Rotax look like a piker.
True, but Continental is a real aircraft engine, whereas Rotax is a
snowmobile engine maker.
do not archive
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Temporarily crossing over |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
I felt like I have crossed the line - to the 'other' side.. the scratch
builder's side, at least temporarily. The following will explain nothing new
to the scratch builders on the list -- but to the kit builders... this may
be of interest.
In the effort to rebuild 701US, I first reviewed the price list from ZAC for
components like the wing spars. Had to start somewhere... they are about
$500 a piece. Looking at the plans, I asked myself if I could save a cool
grand and build them myself.... need to rivet and bend metal, something that
was never needed with the kit building first time around. Never have done
either before... then I realized that w/o the cash to repurchase these
spars... no flying!
Making a long story short: purchased a rivet gun for $150 and bucking bar
for $15 and a bag of rivets... practiced and found that if you only have to
rivet straight down towards the table (this is what the spar requires)... it
is NOT difficult, just practice.
There are a few pieces of bent metal on that spar... and I didnt have a
brake or access to one (in the boonies up here) and I knew that typical
brakes dont handle aluminum well because of their sharp radii. Another long
story short, I went to Harbor Freight (model 46508-0VGA) for $125 made the
purchase. This brake is over 100lbs of steel, (shipping is free anywhere in
US!) up to 40" long and seems more than adequate for up to .040 sheet.
Lucked out again when I discovered that if you take a 1/8" extrusion and
view the edges, they are radiused approx 1/8"... so I ripped a 40" length
down one side and placed it under the 'nose' of the brake. Never used a
brake before in my life ...Get GREAT bends.
End of story: for about $100 in materials, I have just completed 2 wing
spars worth $1000, and have the tools to tackle those 701 fuse sides that
also need brake and riveting. My point is that if YOU have the skill to
build the kit... there is a good chance YOU have the ability to scratch a
LOT of that plane. You get reduced costs and a certain sense of
accomplishment. Great for that 2nd plane project you're thinking about!
Making ribs scares me.... doesnt look as easy as the spars... maybe I'll
have to check the ZAC prices on ribs to help me with that decision.....
Probably these are easy for the experienced scratch builders...... I am just
a 'kit' builder.... but I did cross over for a little while there....
definitely DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Temporarily crossing over |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
> I felt like I have crossed the line - to the 'other' side.. the scratch
> builder's side, at least temporarily. The following will explain nothing
new
> to the scratch builders on the list -- but to the kit builders... this may
> be of interest.
> End of story: for about $100 in materials, I have just completed 2 wing
> spars worth $1000, and have the tools to tackle those 701 fuse sides that
> also need brake and riveting. My point is that if YOU have the skill to
> build the kit... there is a good chance YOU have the ability to scratch a
> LOT of that plane. You get reduced costs and a certain sense of
> accomplishment. Great for that 2nd plane project you're thinking about!
>
> Making ribs scares me.... doesnt look as easy as the spars... maybe I'll
> have to check the ZAC prices on ribs to help me with that decision.....
> Probably these are easy for the experienced scratch builders...... I am
just
> a 'kit' builder.... but I did cross over for a little while there....
>
> definitely DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
John,
The ribs are only as hard as the first one. The next one is half as hard as
the previous
and so forth. Scratch building is exactly that premise. Way to go!
Larry McFarland Scratch builder 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 601 Sliding Canopy- Possible? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <perrymorrison@yahoo.com>
Just wanted to poll the collective engineering talent out there.
I have a HD with a busted canopy that could be modified to leave a
front windshield for a sliding canopy. However I'm advised that the fuse
sides won't permit it.
This site shows an interesting method for those a/c it would suit:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/bingelis/A%20Few%20Sliding%20Canopy%20Details.html
Perry Morrison
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|