Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:09 PM - Re: making figerglass cowling (Mike Sinclair)
2. 07:23 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 alternator (Bob Miller)
3. 07:29 PM - Re: making figerglass cowling (Tim & Diane Shankland)
4. 09:37 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 alternator (Chuck Deiterich)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: making figerglass cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
Tim
There are some pictures of my cowl building process that Scott Laughlin posted
on
his web site. Go to cooknwithgas.com and look down on the lower left of his home
page. It might give you a couple of ideas. About spraying something on to give
you
a "smooth glossy finish" on the finished part, it don't work that way. The
finished surface of your plug needs to be smooth and to the desired contour. Any
imperfections in your plug will also be in the mold, and the finished part. The
smooth and glossy will come about on the finish prep work and painting. Cy Galley
did mention polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). In the pictures on Scotts web site, the green
color you see on my plug, and still residual on the finished molds is the PVA.
It
just makes it easier to separate the mold from the plug, or the part from the
mold. Use sparingly though, runs do transfer as a depression in the layup.
Tim & Diane Shankland wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
>
> I'm about to start the process of making a plug then a mold then the
> cowling. A friend from my EAA chapter gave me a detailed description on
> the process, he had made several. He mentioned that after the plug was
> shaped he would paint something on it that was expensive but gave the
> plug a glossy smooth finish. Which means a glossy smooth finish for the
> finished part. Unfortunately he died in a recent auto accident and I
> don't remember the "stuff" he painted on. Does anyone have any idea what
> this would be.
>
> Tim Shankland
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 alternator |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Chuck,
Many many thanks. I purchased a partly completed project, and an Aeroflash
strobe came with it. The Aeroflash paperwork indicated it only uses 1.8
amps. I forgot to include the starter solenoid in my guesstimations, so
thanks for reminding me.
Happy flying,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Jabiru 2200 alternator
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
>
> Bob,
> Here are the data, (12VDC battery, engine off.):
> Item
> Garmin 250XL .89a (3.2a transmitting)
> and Intercom
> Nav lites 2.3a (The tail lamp pulls 1.75a with 14 VDC, I
> intend to modify a high intensity LED and save an amp or more, wingtip nav
> lamps pull about .6a each)
>
> Strobes 4a (hard to get as the current varies)
> Instruments .41a (VDO - fuel gages, oil temp, oil press, volts,
> tach)
> Panel lites 1.29a
> Turn&bank .25a
> Trim indicator .064
>
> Total 9.184amps
>
> The strobes are hard to measure as the current varies, 4amps was the max I
> saw so actual will be less. Both strobes are dual flash and are part of
the
> combined Nav/Strob that ZAC sells. With 14 VDC there may be some increase
> in amps. Flying during day saves nav and panel lites or about 3.5 amps. I
> measured the current out of the alternator and the regulator kept the
> current below 10 amps even after just starting the engine. If I ever have
> to work on the strobe power supplies, I may try to convert them to single
> flash. They should be brighter that way and pull less current. Areoflash
> data shows the single flash pulls less current. Starter solenoid pulls
> 3.4a.
> Chuck D.
> N701TX
>
>
> > Bob,
> > I measured the current from each component, and can send you the data
if
> > you wish.
> > Chuck
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: making figerglass cowling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
Mike,
Thanks for the info, I have all ready downloaded the pictures of your
project. I have also worked with spackling compound and although you can
make a smooth finish with it I have never been able to to make a glass
like finish. The work I have seen looked like a production grade and
since my friend emphasized the coating I would like to try it.
Tim
Mike Sinclair wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
>
>Tim
>
>There are some pictures of my cowl building process that Scott Laughlin posted
on
>his web site. Go to cooknwithgas.com and look down on the lower left of his home
>page. It might give you a couple of ideas. About spraying something on to give
you
>a "smooth glossy finish" on the finished part, it don't work that way. The
>finished surface of your plug needs to be smooth and to the desired contour. Any
>imperfections in your plug will also be in the mold, and the finished part. The
>smooth and glossy will come about on the finish prep work and painting. Cy Galley
>did mention polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). In the pictures on Scotts web site, the green
>color you see on my plug, and still residual on the finished molds is the PVA.
It
>just makes it easier to separate the mold from the plug, or the part from the
>mold. Use sparingly though, runs do transfer as a depression in the layup.
>
>Tim & Diane Shankland wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
>>
>>I'm about to start the process of making a plug then a mold then the
>>cowling. A friend from my EAA chapter gave me a detailed description on
>>the process, he had made several. He mentioned that after the plug was
>>shaped he would paint something on it that was expensive but gave the
>>plug a glossy smooth finish. Which means a glossy smooth finish for the
>>finished part. Unfortunately he died in a recent auto accident and I
>>don't remember the "stuff" he painted on. Does anyone have any idea what
>>this would be.
>>
>>Tim Shankland
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 alternator |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Bob,
Things like the starter solenoid and radio transmitting really won't be of
concern for current drain except when deciding what gauge wire to use and
associated fuse or circuit breaker size. Only steady state drains should be
added up. I used an auto ignition switch for my master and starter (toggle
switches for mags), but if you have a master relay, its current must be
accounted for. I used fuses not circuit breakers which are convenient to
power a system down and a simple backup if a switch fails to open. I rigged
a device to insert into a fuse holder which I connect to an ammeter to
measure the current of the associated system.
Chuck D.
N701TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Miller <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Jabiru 2200 alternator
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller"
<drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
>
> Chuck,
> Many many thanks. I purchased a partly completed project, and an
Aeroflash
> strobe came with it. The Aeroflash paperwork indicated it only uses 1.8
> amps. I forgot to include the starter solenoid in my guesstimations, so
> thanks for reminding me.
> Happy flying,
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
> To: "zenith-list" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Jabiru 2200 alternator
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich"
<cfd@thegateway.net>
> >
> > Bob,
> > Here are the data, (12VDC battery, engine off.):
> > Item
> > Garmin 250XL .89a (3.2a transmitting)
> > and Intercom
> > Nav lites 2.3a (The tail lamp pulls 1.75a with 14 VDC,
I
> > intend to modify a high intensity LED and save an amp or more, wingtip
nav
> > lamps pull about .6a each)
> >
> > Strobes 4a (hard to get as the current varies)
> > Instruments .41a (VDO - fuel gages, oil temp, oil press,
volts,
> > tach)
> > Panel lites 1.29a
> > Turn&bank .25a
> > Trim indicator .064
> >
> > Total 9.184amps
> >
> > The strobes are hard to measure as the current varies, 4amps was the max
I
> > saw so actual will be less. Both strobes are dual flash and are part of
> the
> > combined Nav/Strob that ZAC sells. With 14 VDC there may be some
increase
> > in amps. Flying during day saves nav and panel lites or about 3.5 amps.
I
> > measured the current out of the alternator and the regulator kept the
> > current below 10 amps even after just starting the engine. If I ever
have
> > to work on the strobe power supplies, I may try to convert them to
single
> > flash. They should be brighter that way and pull less current.
Areoflash
> > data shows the single flash pulls less current. Starter solenoid pulls
> > 3.4a.
> > Chuck D.
> > N701TX
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