Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:20 AM - Water Cooled Solutions (Larry McFarland)
     2. 07:30 AM - Data plate question (Larry McFarland)
     3. 08:04 AM - Re: Data plate question (Gary Liming)
     4. 08:04 AM - Re: Data plate question (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
     5. 08:04 AM - Re: Data plate question (Dave Alberti)
     6. 08:06 AM - Re: Data plate question (Brett Ray)
     7. 10:05 AM - fuel shut off valves (Jack Russell)
     8. 10:31 AM - Re: fuel shut off valves (wizard-24@juno.com)
     9. 11:56 AM - 701 Fwd. fuselage to Rear Fuselage (LARRY BOHANNON)
    10. 12:36 PM - Re: Cortec primer question (Robert Schoenberger)
    11. 12:51 PM - Re: Cortec primer question (Jon Croke)
    12. 01:01 PM - Re: 701 Fwd. fuselage to Rear Fuselage (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
    13. 01:04 PM - Re: fuel shut off valves (Jack Russell)
    14. 01:10 PM - Re: 701 Fwd. fuselage to Rear Fuselage (Benford2@aol.com)
    15. 02:39 PM - Re: fuel shut off valves (Bryan Martin)
    16. 03:37 PM - Re: fuel shut off valves (Jack Russell)
    17. 04:11 PM - Re: Need a prop (Jeff Reuschle)
    18. 04:18 PM - Re: Cortec primer question (Aaron)
    19. 04:35 PM - Re: fuel shut off valves (Frank Jones)
    20. 05:39 PM - Re: Prop (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
    21. 07:00 PM - Re: fuel shut off valves (Jeffrey Davidson)
    22. 08:28 PM - Re: Re: Prop (Brett Ray)
    23. 11:40 PM - Re: fuel shut off valves (wizard-24@juno.com)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Water Cooled Solutions | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
      
      Hi list,
      Seems very quiet lately, probably because of the holidays
      but I recieved a book that should be a must-read for the
      Subaru user.  It's Alternative Engines Volume 2 by Mick Myal and
      it was ordered thru the Builders Bookstore.  It covers a lot
      of Subaru cooling solutions that run the total gamut.
      It's very well illustrated and examines a multitude of homebuilt
      aircraft as well as historical evolved wartime liquid cooled designs.
      Of the automotive engines covered, a good many of the homebuilts
      are Subaru.  In wing radiators and the airflow results are shown
      for a mulitude of variations from earliest to the latest modern applications.
      Several VW Rabbit radiator installations are examined, discussed
      and well illustrated for approaches that work best to improve cooling issues.
      This book covers redrives, mounts and systems in detail.  For $43.00, I think
      it's a bargan and a very interesting read for the experimenter.
      
      
      Happy Holidays,
      
      Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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| Subject:  | Data plate question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
      
      Hi list,
      My question is this;
      
      The "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" placard that has
      all the aircraft data, model, serial, engine type etc has a
      date of manufacture on it and I'd like to know if that date is
      tied to the final inspection date or some other milestone.
      
      What have you done?
      
      Would like to get it engraved and attached soon.
      
      Larry McFarland
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Data plate question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
      
      At 09:24 AM 12/20/2003 -0600, you wrote:
      >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
      >
      >Hi list,
      >My question is this;
      >
      >The "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" placard that has
      >all the aircraft data, model, serial, engine type etc has a
      >date of manufacture on it and I'd like to know if that date is
      >tied to the final inspection date or some other milestone.
      >
      >What have you done?
      
      Hi Larry,
      
      You can pretty much put whatever date you want there, since as the 
      manufacturer, you can declare any date to be the "done" date.  (When is it 
      ever really done??)
      
      One consideration about this date is if you live in a state that has 
      personal property taxes on airplanes.  This date MAY be used to determine 
      when the taxable value changed from a pile of sheet metal to one of a 
      functional aircraft.  Id this is the case, you might want to postpone the 
      date as log as possible (After phase 1?), but the DAR will probably want to 
      see something there.
      
      Having said that, if you're that close to completion, you really should 
      talk to the guy who will be your DAR about that ahead of time just to avoid 
      any issues he may have.  I've seen that some DAR's have particular issues 
      they home in on - some insist that ELT be mounted in the rear fuse since 
      forward ones don't survive a crash very well, some are particular on the 
      lettering used for placards and markings, etc.  Ask him is there is 
      anything he looks especially for.
      
      Also, be advised there is a new application for airworthiness form that you 
      will need, not one that you got out of a 2 year old packet.  One DAR even 
      insisted it be on a single sheet (both sides printed) instead of printed 
      out from the web site on two sheets.  You can go the faa website to see if 
      yours is te current one, or contact your FSDO for a copy.
      
      Sometimes they want some things that are not in the regs, and you have a 
      choice to challenge them or just give in.  Usually, giving in the best idea 
      since it is usually founded on a safety issue, and many things this way can 
      be taken care of right away.
      
      If you want it to pass first time, though, I think the best thing to 
      prepare is to talk to your DAR and ask how you can make sure you will have 
      everything he wants to see.  Ask him what things he made other builders 
      change, and that will give you some idea.
      
      Hope this helps,
      
      Gary Liming
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Data plate question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
      
      Larry,
      In 1999 I dated one in November, but the final inspectiopn was in December.
      Probably doesn't make much difference as long as manufacture date is prior to 
      inspection date.
      Zed Smith/701/R912/90% w/99% to go
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Data plate question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
      
      When you say it's done it's done.  That's it.
      
      -----Original Message-----
      Hi list,
      My question is this;
      
      The "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" placard that has
      all the aircraft data, model, serial, engine type etc has a
      date of manufacture on it and I'd like to know if that date is
      tied to the final inspection date or some other milestone.
      
      What have you done?
      
      Would like to get it engraved and attached soon.
      
      Larry McFarland
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Data plate question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
      
      The date that is on mine is about a month befor the inspection. I 
      think it is what ever you make it.
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" 
      <larrymc@qconline.com>
      > 
      > Hi list,
      > My question is this;
      > 
      > The "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" placard that has
      > all the aircraft data, model, serial, engine type etc has a
      > date of manufacture on it and I'd like to know if that date is
      > tied to the final inspection date or some other milestone.
      > 
      > What have you done?
      > 
      > Would like to get it engraved and attached soon.
      > 
      > Larry McFarland
      > 
      > 
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      -- Thanks
      Brett Ray
      owner Hog Air
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
      
      Can anyone tell me if the 2 wing shut off valves are required at the wing root
      if I am using a center right/left/both/off valve on the center console. I want
      to run the flexible fuel line directly to this center valve and avoid any other
      possible leaks with fittings. I can't think of any safety issues by not using
      them unless you are planning to rip the wings off in a crash and even then
      I am not sure I would have remembered to turn off the valves. Thanks in advance.
      
      
      
      Jack Russell -Clovis CA
      601 XL Jabiru 3300
       Progress update at:
      http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
      
      
      > Can anyone tell me if the 2 wing shut off valves are required at the 
      > wing root if I am using a center right/left/both/off valve on the 
      > center console. 
      
      Nope, you don't need those other valves -- they're provided in the event
      you don't choose to use a center console mounted valve.
      
      Mike Fortunato
      601XL
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | 701 Fwd. fuselage to Rear Fuselage | 
      Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 14:55:53 -0500
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "LARRY BOHANNON" <lbohannon1@msn.com>
      
      Hi list,
      I'm just finishing up drilling and clecoing the Fwd. fuselage Cabin Sides (Section
      9 Fuselage, in photo manual).I'm now ready to rivet.
      Question 1. Is it best to rivet the normal way from the outside and just let the
      rivet "tail" protrude into the cabin  area floor or let the head be inside the
      cabin and the tail protrude into the outside bottom?
      Question 2. The next section 10 calls for leveling the rear fuselage along Ref.
      line A-E. Since the ref. line is a few mm below the top of Fuselage do you just
      use a string stretched along the side with maybe a line "string" level ?
      Thanks in advance for any help/opinions.
      
      Regards,
      Larry Bohannon
      701SP
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cortec primer question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
      
      Jon . . .  My Cortec (undiluted) brushes on fine, but the end product is not
      smooth.  Brushmarks are visible.  The product is definitely not self
      leveling.  I diluted a small sample and was not satisfied with the result at
      all.  Another builder, Larry Bohannon, I believe, said to barely touch the
      tip of the brush into the Cortec.  I do this and then spot the area to be
      coated in two or three places and then brush like crazy.  This works fine
      for me.  I made the mistake of putting it on too heavy in the beginning.
      The product literature talks of a coating a few mills thick.
      
      I considered using the foam brush, but was worried that the foam would soak
      up too much product.  Assuming the corrosion protection is as good, this
      surely beats working with ZnChr.  Robert Schoenberger
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
      Subject: Zenith-List: Cortec primer question
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
      >
      > Is anyone that is using the Coretc primer having a problem similar to
      mine?
      >
      > It seems that upon application (using a brush) that the wet coating beads
      up
      > and leaves a less than uniform coating on the aluminum.  Using a brush to
      > redistribute when still wet doesnt seem to help much. I have tried
      different
      > degrees of thinning and cant seem to improve the situation.
      >
      > What is your experience using this product?
      >
      > Jon
      > 701US rear fuselage almost done
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cortec primer question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
      
      Robert,
      
      You are right... even with all of my complaining, I also like using it
      compared to working with the ZnChr... tho, am still getting used to its
      clear color... beginning to like that too -- no worry about over brushing
      and making a green mess!
      
      You may be using a better bristle brush than I was... the foam pad really
      does a better job for me at covering compared to my cheap brush.
      
      starting to get cold in Green Bay... good time to be building!
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
      <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
      >
      > Jon . . .  My Cortec (undiluted) brushes on fine, but the end product is
      not
      > smooth.  Brushmarks are visible.  The product is definitely not self
      > leveling.  I diluted a small sample and was not satisfied with the result
      at
      > all.  Another builder, Larry Bohannon, I believe, said to barely touch the
      > tip of the brush into the Cortec.  I do this and then spot the area to be
      > coated in two or three places and then brush like crazy.  This works fine
      > for me.  I made the mistake of putting it on too heavy in the beginning.
      > The product literature talks of a coating a few mills thick.
      >
      > I considered using the foam brush, but was worried that the foam would
      soak
      > up too much product.  Assuming the corrosion protection is as good, this
      > surely beats working with ZnChr.  Robert Schoenberger
      >
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
      > To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
      > Subject: Zenith-List: Cortec primer question
      >
      >
      > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
      > >
      > > Is anyone that is using the Coretc primer having a problem similar to
      > mine?
      > >
      > > It seems that upon application (using a brush) that the wet coating
      beads
      > up
      > > and leaves a less than uniform coating on the aluminum.  Using a brush
      to
      > > redistribute when still wet doesnt seem to help much. I have tried
      > different
      > > degrees of thinning and cant seem to improve the situation.
      > >
      > > What is your experience using this product?
      > >
      > > Jon
      > > 701US rear fuselage almost done
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: 701 Fwd. fuselage to Rear Fuselage | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
      
      I have some of both:  It just depended on where the rivet was located, like 
      was it near an area where feet might be in flight.  Otherwise I did whatever 
      seemed best.  Some rivets cannot be pulled with the fuselage sitting on a work
      
      table.  You have to scoot it over the edge or turn it upsidedown.  Therefore, 
      the reason for my mixture since I don't have anyone to help manhandle the 
      thing.
      
      As to the "Line A-B" business:  I established that line per the drawings, 
      lots of looking, measuring, etc.  Since I had the whole thing up on a level table
      
      I also measured from the table top up to the "A: & "B" points just to check 
      my string.
      I have one of those digital "smart levels" that I then used to measure 
      several points and record them with a Marks-A-Lot right there on the spot.  My
      
      floor, between the front of the seat and the rudder pedals is "plus 6 degrees".
      This made it much easier to rock the fuselage back in order to rivet under it 
      and then return to the "A-B" level position.......simply rock it to +6 and 
      move on.
      
      Hope this might be helpful.
      
      Zed Smith/701/R912/do not archive/a Ho-Ho-Ho to all
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
      
      Thanks for reinforcing my opinon Mike. The next question is should I use the "C"
      holes in nose ribs 1-4 to bring the fuel line into the cockpit at floor level
      instead of the layout the drawings show which will bring the line in half way
      up on the center spar? I see there is a protection channel they provide to run
      the fuel lines on the floorboard. Thanks. 
      
      wizard-24@juno.com wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
      
      
      > Can anyone tell me if the 2 wing shut off valves are required at the 
      > wing root if I am using a center right/left/both/off valve on the 
      > center console. 
      
      Nope, you don't need those other valves -- they're provided in the event
      you don't choose to use a center console mounted valve.
      
      Mike Fortunato
      601XL
      
      
      Jack Russell -Clovis CA
      601 XL Jabiru 3300
       Progress update at:
      http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: 701 Fwd. fuselage to Rear Fuselage | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
      
      In a message dated 12/20/2003 12:57:29 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
      lbohannon1@msn.com writes:
      
      
      > 
      > 
      > Hi list,
      > I'm just finishing up drilling and clecoing the Fwd. fuselage Cabin Sides 
      > (Section 9 Fuselage, in photo manual).I'm now ready to rivet.
      > Question 1. Is it best to rivet the normal way from the outside and just let
      
      > the rivet "tail" protrude into the cabin  area floor or let the head be 
      > inside the cabin and the tail protrude into the outside bottom?
      > Question 2. The next section 10 calls for leveling the rear fuselage along 
      > Ref. line A-E. Since the ref. line is a few mm below the top of Fuselage do 
      > you just use a string stretched along the side with maybe a line "string" level
      
      > ?
      > Thanks in advance for any help/opinions.
      > 
      > 
      
      Let the tail end up inside the cockpit. The floor covering will hide these..
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 15
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
      
      on 12/20/03 4:04 PM, Jack Russell at clojan@sbcglobal.net wrote:
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
      > 
      > Thanks for reinforcing my opinon Mike. The next question is should I use the
      > "C" holes in nose ribs 1-4 to bring the fuel line into the cockpit at floor
      > level instead of the layout the drawings show which will bring the line in
      > half way up on the center spar? I see there is a protection channel they
      > provide to run the fuel lines on the floorboard. Thanks.
      
      
      It's best to run the fuel lines downhill from the tanks to the gascolater
      with no local low spots where water and sediments can settle out in the
      lines. The wing dihedral helps with this as the bottom of the tanks are
      higher than the cabin floor. My fuel lines run downhill all the way to the
      gascolater and then uphill all the way to the carbs. That way I only need to
      drain water at the gascolater and at each tank.
      
      
      -- 
      Bryan Martin
      N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
      Airframe construction complete.
      Panel and engine installed.
      Almost done.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
      
      Bryan: I can agree with this execpt with the center shut off valve on the center
      console (8 to 10" above the floor) the fuel will have to run uphill before the
      gascolator unless you use 2 gascolators on each side. I was planning on the
      gascolator on the firewall. I would think that the flow of fuel would carry any
      water to sediments to the gascolator.Thanks Jack
      
      Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net> wrote:It's best to run the fuel lines downhill
      from the tanks to the gascolater
      with no local low spots where water and sediments can settle out in the
      lines. The wing dihedral helps with this as the bottom of the tanks are
      higher than the cabin floor. My fuel lines run downhill all the way to the
      gascolater and then uphill all the way to the carbs. That way I only need to
      drain water at the gascolater and at each tank.
      
      
      -- 
      Bryan Martin
      N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
      Airframe construction complete.
      Panel and engine installed.
      Almost done.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 17
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Reuschle" <jreuschle@mindspring.com>
      
      The three blade prop is 60 inch. I also have a two blade Warp Drive Taper
      prop that is 66 inch.
      
      Jeff Reuschle
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
      Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Need a prop
      
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
      >
      > I will measure the bolt pattern tomorrow and get back to you. What
      > size is the prop?
      > And thanks for the wep site for checking the prop.
      >
      > Brett
      >
      > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Reuschle"
      > <jreuschle@mindspring.com>
      > >
      > > Brett,
      > >
      > > I have a three blade IVO Ground Adustable prop in new condition for
      > a Rotax
      > > 2 Cycle Engine. I don't know if it fits the Rotax 4 Cycle
      > configuration.
      > >
      > > I would sell it for $ 200.00.
      > >
      > > Jeff Reuschle
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
      > > To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
      > > Subject: Zenith-List: Need a prop
      > >
      > >
      > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > I am looking for a new prop for testing. I need something smaller
      > > > around 60 or 62 in. ground adjustable. I want to turn more RPM on
      > the
      > > > motor than is safe to do with the big prop. I also need the Rotax
      > bolt
      > > > pattern. Anybody have one for sale?
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > > _-
      > =======================================================================
      > > > _-
      > =======================================================================
      > > > _-
      > =======================================================================
      > > > _-
      > =======================================================================
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      > -- Thanks
      > Brett Ray
      > owner Hog Air
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 18
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cortec primer question | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
      
      I use zinc chromate applied with bandage gauze held in a spring clothes pin
      w/ extension.  Thinned, it goes on smooth and even and looks professional.
      When I'm done I just drop the gauze in the garbage, no cleaning, no mess.
      Works great and its cheep.
      
      Aaron  601HDTD
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 19
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
      
      
      >Bryan: I can agree with this execpt with the center shut off valve on
      the >center console (8 to 10" above the floor) the fuel will have to run
      uphill >before the gascolator unless you use 2 gascolators on each side.
      I was >planning on the gascolator on the firewall. I would think that
      the flow of >fuel would carry any water to sediments to the
      gascolator.Thanks Jack
      
      My two cents on this. I'd go with a L/R/OFF and not have a BOTH valve.
      With low wing a/c if you have it set to BOTH and one wing tank is dry
      you'll suck air and not get the benefit of the fuel in the other tank.
      
      Also, on the gascolator. I'd work hard to keep it at the lowest point in
      the fuel system. Putting the gascolator on the firewall means it isn't.
      Also, running the lines up to the valve would leave low points in the
      line that are undrainable. This is where sediment and water (frozen in
      the winter) can accumulate. I kept my gascolator at the lowest point and
      stuck my L/R/Off valve on the cabin floor. You can get an expensive
      Andair valve with an extension that would allow you to keep the valve
      low if you want the center console selector.
      
      Frank
      C-GYXQ 601XL 912S
      Ottawa
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 20
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
      
      I have a three-blade Warp Drive PUSHER currently on a 912.  
      Will be putting the engine on new 701 and won't need the prop.
      Brett doesn't say which side of the Harley he's using, but we must assume he 
      needs a tractor prop.
      
      Zed Smith/701/R912/ do not archive
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 21
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Davidson" <jeffrey.davidson@earthlink.net>
      
      Frank wrote:
      > My two cents on this. I'd go with a L/R/OFF and not have a BOTH valve.
      > With low wing a/c if you have it set to BOTH and one wing tank is dry
      > you'll suck air and not get the benefit of the fuel in the other tank.
      
      I'd have to agree with Frank.  Not because I know, but because I put this
      question to Chris Heintz in the form of a diagram of my fuel system.  The
      concern is that some inspectors will require that the two tanks be vented
      together if they are interconnected (via the BOTH position).  That means you
      may need a vent line between the two tanks.   The concern is in the case
      that one tank's vent line is blocked by an insect nest or similar.  With the
      interconnecting vent line in place, both tanks are vented by the other
      tank's vent line allowing you to draw fuel from it.  If you can't draw fuel
      from either one, you have a situation similar to what Frank described.   It
      was clear to me that this advice was born of experience, not regulation.
      This interconnection could be difficult to route through the fuselage after
      the plane is finished if the DAR objects at inspection time.  You might
      check with your prospective inspector now to see what they think.
      Jeff Davidson
      CH601 HD
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 22
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
      
      Yes its a tractor. And sitting behind it it turns Clock Wise or to the 
      right
      I also need the H.P. rating for the prop.
      
      > --> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
      > 
      > I have a three-blade Warp Drive PUSHER currently on a 912.  
      > Will be putting the engine on new 701 and won't need the prop.
      > Brett doesn't say which side of the Harley he's using, but we must 
      assume he 
      > needs a tractor prop.
      > 
      > Zed Smith/701/R912/ do not archive
      > 
      > 
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > _-
      =======================================================================
      =
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      -- Thanks
      Brett Ray
      owner Hog Air
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 23
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: fuel shut off valves | 
      
      --> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
      
      
      > Bryan: I can agree with this execpt with the center shut off valve 
      > on the center console (8 to 10" above the floor) the fuel will have 
      > to run uphill before the gascolator unless you use 2 gascolators on 
      > each side. 
      
      Jack, the answers everyone has been giving you is all sound advice, but
      I'm not sure everyone (including me) knows your exact set-up. Do you have
      4 tanks, or just 2? Is the console-mounted selector valve a 4-way, which
      means you can only select any one tank at a time? (no "both" setting?).
      
      In my situation, I have two tanks in each wing, with separate fuel lines
      for each one per ZAC's original XL plans. Because I installed them per
      the original plans, the fuel lines in the wings run downhill to the cabin
      floor...so I had to install 2 small gascolators on each side (instead of
      the one large gascolator as shown on the plans, since the selector valve
      would have to be after a single gascolator). From these small
      gascolators, each fuel line runs uphill to the 4-way selector valve on
      the center console, and from there on to the fuel pumps and carb.
      
      If you install the fuel lines per the newer auxilliary tank drawing
      6-WKO-1 (4/03), then you won't need the smaller gascolators since the
      lines run a constant uphill in the nose ribs towards the fuel selector on
      the center console. (You would also need the newer fuel tanks where the
      inboard fuel tube is angled upward).
      
      Hope some of this makes sense, but email me off list if it doesn't. It
      shouldn't be this tough, if ZAC would have worked all this out looonnnggg
      ago....
      
      Mike Fortunato
      601XL
      wizard-24@juno.com
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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