Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:47 AM - Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna (Richard McLachlan)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna (N 5XL)
3. 07:23 AM - Re: Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna (Ron DeWees)
4. 08:10 AM - Zodiac upgrades for Flight Simulator 2004 (Paul Hartl)
5. 09:07 AM - Re: 701firewall (Flydog1966@aol.com)
6. 11:18 AM - Re: Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna (Frank Jones)
7. 11:40 AM - Matco Brakes reservoir (Robert Rehmel)
8. 12:12 PM - Re: Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna (Leo J. Corbalis)
9. 12:34 PM - Re: Matco Brakes reservoir (Jack Russell)
10. 12:51 PM - 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot (Jon Croke)
11. 01:24 PM - Re: Matco Brakes reservoir (Thomas F Marson)
12. 01:28 PM - Re: Matco Brakes reservoir (Thomas F Marson)
13. 02:44 PM - Re: 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot (Flydog1966@aol.com)
14. 04:38 PM - Re: 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot (ronnie wehba)
15. 06:01 PM - Re: Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna (jnbolding1)
16. 07:21 PM - Re: Matco Brakes reservoir (TOMGILES@aol.com)
17. 10:51 PM - Custom Riveter (Jeff DeMello)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Richard McLachlan" <richard@rodsley.net>
The effect you describe may be due to poor grounding at the antenna end. It
needs some sort of ground to work against so make sure you have a good
connection between the outer braid of the cable and the metal skin of the
a/c. Borrow an SWR meter from somebody - all radio hams have them. Ask the
lender how to use it.Check the match between the radio and the antenna at
the radio end. You need to get say 1.5:1 or lower. Also borrow an Icom radio
from somebody and try that. The performance is better than the
Yaesu(Yaesu=Vertex, same thing). You may need to trim the antenna length to
get the match right.
Richard
CH601HD/R22 G3OQT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Stout" <n282rs@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Stout" <n282rs@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Frank
>
> Mine does a similar thing as well. I have a Yeasu, which looks very much
> like a Vertex. Maybe related some how. I have not tried the rubber
antenna.
> Mine only does it for a couple of minutes after take off, then again as I
> approach for landing. I know it sounds a bit crazy, but it seemed like it
> was altitude related. Usually about 1000-1500 ft agl I get a lot of noise
> that can't be squelched. As I leave the airport area, it goes away and
> doesn't happen again until I'm about to enter downwind. I need to see if
it
> occurs at other airports. I should also try my rubber antenna. Let me know
> if you come up with a fix.
>
> Randy Stout
> CH 601 HD
> n282rs@sbcglobal.net
> http://www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21/index.html
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
> >
> > Looking for some RF help.
> >
> > I've hooked my Vertex VXA-210 handheld transceiver up to an external 1/4
> > wave antenna I bought from aircraft spruce. It has some annoying
> > problems that I don't have with the rubber antenna supplied with the
> > radio. First, I'm often getting static background that just can't be
> > squelched blasting in my ear. Usually depends on power setting of the
> > engine but not always. Second, when I was really close to the Ottawa
> > tower the other day I couldn't read the ATC voice at all. To my
> > untrained ear it sounded like way too much power was coming into the
> > unit and the waves were being clipped. Once I got a half mile or so away
> > everything was okay again.
> >
> > One thing I did not do is ensure my coax RG58 cable was of a proper
> > length (ie. in increments of a wave 1.25m or so). I'm wondering if this
> > might be the cause of my problem or if I should cut the antenna down to
> > being a 1/8 wave instead of the current 1/4 wave.
> >
> > I don't know anything about RF so any help is appreciated.
> >
> > Frank Jones
> > C-GYXQ 601XL 912S
> > 19.5 hours
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "N 5XL" <n5xl@hotmail.com>
Morning Frank and Group...
First time poster here, but a long time ham radio operator. Welcome to the
world of what is called mobile communications. It (ham radio at least) is a
rough environment for a radio to operate in and do it without some
shortcomings. While I cant comment exactly on the cause of your problem (I
have never run aeronautical mobile, but do run HF mobile and VHF mobile from
my truck), I can comment on several things that you can check on.
First thing to Franks comment. Yaesu and Vertex are the same people. The
exact division of what Yaesu handles and what Vertex handles is somewhat
overlapping, but in general Yaesu handles amateur radio communication
products. Vertex handles the commercial and business band accounts. Both
divisions usually share the same electronics inside the "box" and sometimes
even share the box! The difference is usually something relating to the FCC
and having equipment being "type accepted" for a particular service.
Second thing in general on all mobile communications. Grounding IS
EVERYTHING. Both electrical AND RF grounding that is. Since you are
running handhelds, and grounding issues are more difficult, it is critical
that the coax connection is installed correctly as well as the antenna is
grounded *if it is a style that has a built in ground plane. Some antennas
use the antenna mounting bracket as a ground connection...some dont, and
actually have a "ground plane" built into the antenna element. Since we are
talking about a simple quarter wave antenna, the most common configuration
is a quarter wave element attached to the center of your coax, with the
shield of the coax serving for the RF ground path between the radio and
antenna. MAKE SURE that the mounting bracket for the antenna is contacting
the bare metal of the aircraft for a good connection. To compound matters
even further, just because you have a good "connection" as verified by an
ohmmeter, that doesnt mean that it is an acceptable RF ground. The latter
usually requires a special SWR bridge and antenna analyzer to check. Lets
leave it to a good, solid, ohmmeter checkable ground for our purposes.
Unless you are into ham radio stuff, or can take it to a communications
specialist to have the SWR checked, thats about the best you can do on your
own.
Its unfortunate that most people that dont deal with RF on a regular basis
think that buying coax with the "pre installed" ends is actually better than
installing your own end connectors. I have been down that road early on in
my ham radio experience, and you just cant beat putting on your own end
connector. Since its one of those things you just have to try and do it, I
cant show you how to do it. I would recommend you verify that the ends of
the coax are installed correctly and are solid. Once again, the best you
can do here is to check with an ohmmeter. Make sure that there is NO
CONNECTION between the center pin of the end connector and the outer barrel
or shell of the connector. Wiggle the connector while you are checking to
look for bad connections. Make sure that there IS A CONNECTION between the
center pins of both ends of the coax. Likewise, make sure that there IS A
CONNECTION between both ends of the coax on the shell, or outside of the
connector. I have seen all three checks fail (sometimes all on the same
piece) on different store bought coax assemblies.
The third thing to check, unfortunately, is the radio itself. You will find
that, radios that are designed SPECIFICALLY for one purpose will suffer the
least in terms of front-end overload. Someone commented that when they were
right over the field that they had distorted communications and it improved
when they were out a bit. That would be a symptom of front-end overload of
the receiver. In general, it is poor radio design that causes that, but it
can be aggravated by antenna / coax / connector issues. I have owned
several Yaesu radios (HF and VHF... FT 100D in my truck, FT 23, 26, 530
handhelds and a VERY OLD FRDX 400 series ), and have always seen better
performance from "single band" rigs. Multi band radios...ones that cover
aircraft bands IN ADDITION to ham bands, broadcast bands etc...suffer the
most from front end overload. Without getting too overly complicated as to
the exact reason that this is the case, it boils down to the very first few
tuned circuits in the radio and if they are designed to deal with one set of
frequencies or range for frequencies. Unfortunately, the only way to check
if this is the case is to swap out radios from a different manufacturer and
see if the problem is better or worse. Of all the issues I have listed so
far, the radio itself is probably the last one that I would check. Coax and
antenna issues would be the first things I would check.
The aircraft issues worth checking are GOOD GROUNDING of the engine and
airframe. I had absolute FITS when I put my HF rig in my truck from
ungrounded components on the truck. I ended up having to ground the cab of
the truck to the frame with a ground strap on both sides of the truck. I
also grounded the bed of the truck to the frame, and grounded the exhaust
system to the frame. Before was a lot of static and hash noise whenever the
truck was running, now its fine. I can see where aircraft would be similar
in respect to grounding. You would think that big bolts and rivets that
hold all this stuff together would be a good ground, but as I commented
earlier, that doesnt mean you have a good RF ground.
Make sure that your coax and or power for other instruments do NOT RUN
PARALLEL to other wires (as much as possible that is...). By putting the
coax right next to other power carrying wires, you can induce electrical
noise into the radio, but much worse, induce RF into the engine and or nav
equipment. Generally this isnt a problem, BUT IF you have a failure of a
connector on the radio end or antenna end of the coax, you will end up with
SWR. SWR can and will cause all sorts of nasty induced noises and RF into
and out of radios, instruments, engine, strobe lights and the like.
I hate it when I have a specific problem and someone gives me a
"generalized" answer....but thats the best I can do without flying around
with you and giving a listen. I cant tell you exactly whats going on with
your noise on your handheld, but I hope I have at least given you a few
things to think about. My advice would be to first check the antenna and
coax ends, then check the other stuff . I will be glad to share what little
I know on ham radio related issues if you need more specifics.
Best of the Holidays to you...
Dave
N5XL
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "N 5XL" <n5xl@hotmail.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "N 5XL" <n5xl@hotmail.com>
>
> Morning Frank and Group...
>
snip<> First time poster here, but a long time ham radio operator. Welcome
to the
> world of what is called mobile communications. It (ham radio at least) is
a
> rough environment for a radio to operate in and do it without some
> shortcomings.<snip.
Hi Listers,
I totally agree with comments about the antenna grounding and connectors. I
am also a longtime ham and find the experience very helpful. I also have a
1/4 wave whip mounted in a non-electric plane and my partner uses a Vertex
handheld in it. We can talk to planes 20 to 50 miles away, depending on
altitude, and don't have any blanking with nearby strong signals. It's
definitely not the radio. I use an Icom IC 22 and it works ok, but is more
prone to ignition noise. The Vertex is a good unit. You haven't mentioned
the ignition shileding or lack of it, but you need any ignition wiring from
the mag and switch shielded. If that doesn't make enough of a difference
you can shield the mag itself and the spark plug wires. It's a tricky
operation so get some help and good advise. Some motors will work ok with
resistor type plugs and it can also help with ignition problems. Look at
Tony Bengelis' book, Firewall Forward and he gives tips on ignition noise
problems.
It can take a while to sort out multiple problems, but keep plugging away
and do one thing at a time so you know what direction you are going. The
antenna cable is a good starting place.
Good luck
Ron DeWees
Atlanta
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Zodiac upgrades for Flight Simulator 2004 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox-internet.com>
Hi List,
I've just completed upgrading my Zodiacs for the latest version of Microsoft's
Flight
Simulator, FS2004 (sometimes denoted FS9) The upgrades are fairly extensive,
and besides fixing some problems that have arisen in FS2004, I have added a full
"virtual cockpit" with instruments that work in that mode, and I also re-worked
the
flight dynamics to better reflect reality. These Zodiac simulations probably outclimb
real-life Zodiacs, but top speed and altitude performance are (hopefully) close
to
reality, based on Zodiac pilot reports on this list. I don't pretend they fly
just like the
real thing, but I've tried hard to get them to be reasonably close. Any comments
for
performance modification are of course welcome - but perfect matching of
Microsoft's sim world to the real world is not possible (especially stall characteristics
- which are very poor).
I have also added a text file to assist you in re-painting any of these Zodiacs
if you
should like to try out different paint schemes in simulation before you take the
plunge into a real paint job! Experience in Photo Shop, Photo Impact or something
similar will help.
These Zodiacs are free, of course, for your flight sim pleasure. Just go to my
Website at www.cox-internet.com/paulhartl and download any and all. There are 7
versions, including an XL trike, XL taildragger, HD trike, HD taildragger, HD trike
HDS floatplane (amphib), and HDS taildragger. I also have a T-38, an F-84G and
an F- 16 for download, but these are FS2002 versions, and the T-38 in particular
is
unstable in high speed flight in FS2004. I will upgrade the T-38 and F-16 later,
but
maybe not for a while, as I should really be working on my own real-life HDS!
I hope you simmers on this list enjoy these offerings, and Happy Holidays to all!
(These upgraded Zodiacs also work in the older FS2002 if you're still using it).
Paul
P.S. My website also has all-new screen shots of each of the above aircraft in
FS2004, so even if you're not a simmer, you might enjoy taking a peek.
Paul Hartl, 601HDS, Jabiru 3300
Tail, rear fuse, wings completed;fuselage nearly complete
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: http://www.cox-internet.com/paulhartl
email: paulhartl@cox-internet.com or paul_hartl@communityschool.org
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
Looking at the online photo guide it appears I'm not only looking for
7F7-9C,
but 7F7-8C as well. Looks like they are also using a 5/8" bungee pin now to.
Will someone email the most recent version of page 7F7 please?
What about that nose gear bearing? What materials are recomended?
Thickness? Any material I should avoid? I think I can get some 1/4"UHMW
plastic,
this any good? I figure I should drill the hole in the plastic/nylon
bearing the same diameter as the gear strut/tube(2"), but should'nt I drill the
hole in the
aluminum piece a bit larger to avoid metal-to-metal contact? How much
oversize?
Thanks
Phil
flydog1966@aol.com
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions on this. Sounds like the
cable is the most likely suspect. My ignition is shielded and grounded
at both ends. The RG58 cable is fabricated with screw on type BNC
connectors. I had a heck of time figuring out exactly how to trim the
coax in order for those connecters to work in the first place. I likely
did a poor job. I think I'll head to the local ham shop and get some
lessons on proper cable fabrication.
Regards,
Frank
Message 7
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| Subject: | Matco Brakes reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Rehmel" <traveler601@earthlink.net>
I am getting ready to install my brakes and was wondering if anyone had
tried to use an external reservoir with the MC-5 brakes with the reservoir
built in. My reasoning is that it would be easier to check the fluid level
in the external reservoir. I have checked the archives and do not see
where it had has been tried.
Also any suggestions on adjusting the calipers would be nice. I have a
drawing from MATCO, but someone who has done it might have some more
pointers.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave
antenna
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
I think you had overload trouble on the ground, If that's right, just switch
to the rubber duckie. Handhelds are designed to work with the lousy gain of
a rubber duck and that means more gain to receive adequately. A good 1/4
wave antenna close to the transmitter will cause gross overload. In the real
world the LARGE PRINT giveth all kinds of gain and the small print distorts
the audio beyond belief.
Leo Corbalis
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
Robert: I thought about using this sytem and I think it would work fine because
matco requires a seperate reservior is you use a 2 brake system (pilot-copilot
setup).I think the aircraft spruce book has a good diagram on this. jack
Robert Rehmel <traveler601@earthlink.net> wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted
by: "Robert Rehmel"
I am getting ready to install my brakes and was wondering if anyone had
tried to use an external reservoir with the MC-5 brakes with the reservoir
built in. My reasoning is that it would be easier to check the fluid level
in the external reservoir. I have checked the archives and do not see
where it had has been tried.
Also any suggestions on adjusting the calipers would be nice. I have a
drawing from MATCO, but someone who has done it might have some more
pointers.
Message 10
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| Subject: | 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Forgive me in advance if I am overstating the obvious.... but to all 701 kit
or scratch builders: The $50 for the updated plans (released a couple
months ago) was the BEST investment I made in avoiding $5000 worth of
agravation, head scratching, and parts not matching from using any older
plans, due to corrections, deletions amd updates. Just as a single example:
see how mad you get when you go to string your elevator cable and find that
the dimension for locating that big hole on the top of the fuse is WRONG
(old plans) and have to cut another hole in the correct place! The firewall
stuff is an example of the new and improved changes that have been made.
Just my opinion, your mileage may differ.
BTW, the denature alcohol, available from your paint store, works great in
thinning the Cortec primer; no more beading from water thinning. THANKS Max
for that solution!
And in CASE you missed it.... Sport Pilot has passed the FAA and been sent
on to OMB for a 90 day review... this is GREAT NEWS.... maybe by Sun n Fun
we can celebrate... (In case you're not sure what this means to you... e.g.
701 builders can fly their planes with NO medical certificates... just a
drivers license) And yes, I am assuming that the provisions of Sport Pilot
as sent to the FAA havent been changed to eliminate this benefit, among
others. 601 builders... depends on the particular craft you are
building....
Happy new year to all
Jon
701 rear fuse completed
nose gear bearing? What materials are recomended?
> Thickness? Any material I should avoid? I think I can get some 1/4"UHMW
> plastic,
> this any good? I figure I should drill the hole in the plastic/nylon
> bearing the same diameter as the gear strut/tube(2"), but should'nt I
drill the
> hole in the
> aluminum piece a bit larger to avoid metal-to-metal contact? How much
> oversize?
>
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
Hi Robert. YOu can connect it but I would no do so. The extra weight----
everything adds up. Not to mention cost. More tubeing more to leak. If the
only reason you have is easier checking I would not recommend it.
Everything in a plane is a compromise. Obviouly it is your choice, you are
the builder. tom M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Rehmel" <traveler601@earthlink.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Matco Brakes reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Rehmel"
<traveler601@earthlink.net>
>
>
> I am getting ready to install my brakes and was wondering if anyone had
> tried to use an external reservoir with the MC-5 brakes with the reservoir
> built in. My reasoning is that it would be easier to check the fluid
level
> in the external reservoir. I have checked the archives and do not see
> where it had has been tried.
>
> Also any suggestions on adjusting the calipers would be nice. I have a
> drawing from MATCO, but someone who has done it might have some more
> pointers.
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
Robert, there is no adjusting needed or possible. I do recommend that you
consider a flat tire that might happen in taxing or upon landing. Place
caliper on the rear as the safest. On the bottom where a flat tire would
cause the caliper to "mash" into the flat tire will cause the wheel to lock
up.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Rehmel" <traveler601@earthlink.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Matco Brakes reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Rehmel"
<traveler601@earthlink.net>
>
>
> I am getting ready to install my brakes and was wondering if anyone had
> tried to use an external reservoir with the MC-5 brakes with the reservoir
> built in. My reasoning is that it would be easier to check the fluid
level
> in the external reservoir. I have checked the archives and do not see
> where it had has been tried.
>
> Also any suggestions on adjusting the calipers would be nice. I have a
> drawing from MATCO, but someone who has done it might have some more
> pointers.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
In a message dated 12/27/03 3:52:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jon@joncroke.com writes:
<< Forgive me in advance if I am overstating the obvious.... but to all 701
kit
or scratch builders: The $50 for the updated plans (released a couple
months ago) was the BEST investment I made in avoiding $5000 worth of >>
Valid point. But...I AM building to the "updated" 4th ed. plans I
purchased a year ago (started with 3rd). I suppose I could send 'em another $50,
but I'll still be printing
the corrections to the 5th ed off the web site.
do not archive.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot |
required 5, BAYES_00)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ronnie wehba" <rwehba@wtxs.net>
so if i order the plans next week ,i should get all the updates?,really
looking at a 701 for next project
----- Original Message -----
From: <Flydog1966@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Flydog1966@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/27/03 3:52:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jon@joncroke.com writes:
>
> << Forgive me in advance if I am overstating the obvious.... but to all
701
> kit
> or scratch builders: The $50 for the updated plans (released a couple
> months ago) was the BEST investment I made in avoiding $5000 worth of >>
>
> Valid point. But...I AM building to the "updated" 4th ed. plans I
> purchased a year ago (started with 3rd). I suppose I could send 'em
another $50,
> but I'll still be printing
> the corrections to the 5th ed off the web site.
> do not archive.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Using a handheld with external 1/4 wave antenna |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jnbolding1" <jnbolding1@mail.ev1.net>
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
>Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions on this. Sounds like the
>cable is the most likely suspect. My ignition is shielded and grounded
>at both ends. >
>
Somebody jump in here and correct me if I'm in left field without a glove but I
was always taught to ground ONE end of a shielded wire, something about potential
for a loop to CAUSE noise instead of reduce it. LOW&SLOW John Bolding
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: TOMGILES@aol.com
Brakes work MUCH better with an external reservoir. Very easy to refill if
needed if reservoir is put in the proper place. Mine is just under the
Instrument Panel so it is easy to inspect and fill. Brakes don't lose fluid as
before it was installed. I used the kit from Aircraft Spruce.
Message 17
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jeff DeMello <demello@bluedevils.org>
I've completed all the drilling / deburring / zinc chromating my CH 601
Introductory Starter Kit (it only took me 6.5 hours!), and I'm ready to
rivet, BUT ...
I need the (highly underplayed) Custom Rivet Puller, which I found is
available on the Zenith web page as a Hand Riveter (with Custom
Machined Heads) for $49.50, or as a Pneumatic Riveter (with Custom
Machined Heads) for $89.20.
My question ... can I just buy the Custom Machined Heads for my
existing hand and/or pneumatic rivet guns? If so, where?
Thanks in advance!
-jeff-
Jeff DeMello
demello@renegades.org
http://www.renegades.org/users/demello/flying/601XL/
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Firewalls, cortec and Sport pilot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
>The $50 for the updated plans (released a couple months ago) was the
BEST investment I
> made in avoiding $5000 worth of agravation
Uh, I thought that too and also plunked down the 50 bucks for the 601XL
plans...only to log on to the builder's web site last week to find a 4
page list of revisions to the "newly revised" plans. By any chance is
Chris Heintz related to Bill Gates?
> Just as a single example:
> see how mad you get when you go to string your elevator cable and
> find that the dimension for locating that big hole on the top of the
fuse is
> WRONG (old plans) and have to cut another hole in the correct place!
Same is true for the 601XL builders. And try changing those fairleads
without having to run a whole new cable (not an easy thing to do in a
closed fuselage).
One more comment....makes you wonder how many of these changes are
critical, since there are so many it's impossible to go back without
rebuilding the whole plane....
Mike Fortunato
Frustrated in SoCal
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