Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:14 AM - Re: Saw/ Power Miter saw vs Chop saw (Monty Graves)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: That problem turtle-deck-skin double-curve area! (David Barth)
3. 08:26 AM - Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing (Scott and Valeree Stout)
4. 08:28 AM - 801: Flap Motor Bushings (Scott and Valeree Stout)
5. 09:01 AM - Re: Canopy adhesive again (John M. Goodings)
6. 09:29 AM - Re: Saw - thanks (Carlos Sa)
7. 10:09 AM - Re: Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing (Benford2@aol.com)
8. 10:56 AM - Re: Canopy adhesive again (Rico Voss)
9. 11:15 AM - CH300 Kit (Doug Kotinek)
10. 12:35 PM - Band saw (Brandon Tucker)
11. 12:35 PM - Re: Canopy adhesive again (Thilo Kind)
12. 01:24 PM - Re: Canopy adhesive again (Bryan Martin)
13. 01:59 PM - Re: Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing (Chuck Deiterich)
14. 02:12 PM - Firewall penetrations (George Swinford)
15. 02:23 PM - 701/geometro (ALEMBIC7@aol.com)
16. 03:11 PM - saw (joe)
17. 03:23 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations (Larry McFarland)
18. 04:47 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations (George Swinford)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Saw/ Power Miter saw vs Chop saw |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
Just a note here because a friend bought the wrong tool because someone
said he needed a chop saw..
The term "chop saw" like discussed below is really a Wood cutting POWER
MITER saw. With a standard carbide wood cutting blade. (larger number
teeth the better)Thats how it will be labeled on the box. It cuts alum
angles great. and has a nice locking miter adjustment. This is the one we
want.
A chop saw is a STEEL cutting saw. IT will say CHOP SAW on the box... It
looks simalar to the power miter saw, but has a thin friction blade, very
much like a bench grinder. It is possible to buy blades to cut alum with
the Chop Saw. BUT the standard friction blade will load up with alum and
can cause serious breakage problems. It also doesn't have a very good
miter adjustment built into its frame. Great for cutting steel. TERRIBLE
for cutting alum.
I own both.
Most guys use the term chop saw interchangable. But for the inexperienced
guy. That goes to Lowes and buys the tool without seeing one, If he goes
and buys the one that says chop saw on the box, he is going to be disapointed
Monty
At 02:25 AM 2/7/04 +0000, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
>
>Ken and Carlos:
>
>The band saw is an amazing tool. I have had one for 15 years. I also have
>a DeWalt Chop saw with a carbide tipped blade. The chop saw wins when
>cutting thick aluminum. Especially straight cuts true and square. The band
>saw works, but aluminum will eventually gum up the blade and your butter
>will become frozen butter and worse. Even with a new blade, the band saw is
>not as fast or true as a chop saw. The adjustments on the chop saw are also
>real nice for cutting angles.
>
>The band saw is the obvious choice for cutting curves and patterns in wood,
>plastic or aluminum. The chop saw cuts nice, flat ends to any angle.
>
>I suggest that you get a chop saw and a band saw. (Don't buy cheap or you
>will not be happy).
>
>Good luck with your decision.
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: That problem turtle-deck-skin double-curve area! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com>
Thanks to everyone who made suggestions and comments
on this problem area. I believe - as Larry suggested
- that the lower 8 inches or so of the tube doesn't
have a tight enough radius so we will look at that and
try the other excellent suggestions made as well.
What a great bunch of folks.
David
=====
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder
Making Spars. Wing ribs all done. Scratchin Head on the fuel tanks.
Elevator waiting for skins. Stab,Flaps,Ailerons and Rudder ready for inspection.
__________________________________
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Scott and Valeree Stout <the_stouts@worldnet.att.net>
Is anyone using nylo-seal or similar nylon 11 type tubing for fuel?
If so, what type of fuel are you using, 100LL? Auto gas?
Any problems or pitfalls with the tubing? the fittings?
I am trying to find something with an outside diameter smaller than the
3/8" inside diameter tubing provided with the 801 kit.
As I have the auxiliary tanks and fuel returns to each tank I have a
total of 4 lines to route to each wing and the suggested routing will
only handle 2 lines.
Any help is appreciated...
Thanx...
-Scott
http://home.att.net/~the_stouts_zenith_801/
Message 4
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| Subject: | 801: Flap Motor Bushings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Scott and Valeree Stout <the_stouts@worldnet.att.net>
With regards to the flap motor bushings, outer 8C8-15 and inner 8C8-14,
how are they placed?
I can see the flap motor is placed directly against 8c8-13 and it seems
that 8c8-14 is placed between the flap motor and 8f16-6, but how does
8c8-15 go into the mix?
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/data/8cx-02.pdf
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/data/8cf-02.pdf
Thanx...
-Scott
http://home.att.net/~the_stouts_zenith_801/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy adhesive again |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John M. Goodings" <goodings@yorku.ca>
I have had very good performance using Crazy Glue/Super Glue/Cyanoacrylate
to stick the rubber edge strip to the canopy. The bond is very strong.
The secret is to use very little Crazy Glue. It continues to hold
perfectly at low temperatures (-25 degrees). Of course, try it first on
scrap material.
John Goodings.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Saw - thanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Thanks to all that replied to my query, on and off list.
I think the band saw will be the most usefull tool for the work I have in mind.
A disk sander also seems to be a rather good idea - but it will have to wait its
turn...
Carlos
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/7/2004 9:27:29 AM Mountain Standard Time,
the_stouts@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> Is anyone using nylo-seal or similar nylon 11 type tubing for fuel?
> If so, what type of fuel are you using, 100LL? Auto gas?
> Any problems or pitfalls with the tubing? the fittings?
>
> I am trying to find something with an outside diameter smaller than the
> 3/8" inside diameter tubing provided with the 801 kit.
> As I have the auxiliary tanks and fuel returns to each tank I have a
> total of 4 lines to route to each wing and the suggested routing will
> only handle 2 lines.
>
> Any help is appreciated...
>
> Thanx...
>
If ZAC would have made the fuel line cover thats in the rear of the door
opening a little bigger we would not be fighting this problem. I could have run
my
pitot tube in there also. I am running metal lines with lola rubber hose for
all my connections. I don't see any problem using what you describe either. If
ya want so pics of mt set up e mail me off list abd I will zip um to ya.
Ben Haas N801BH
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy adhesive again |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
> rubber trim
> > has to be glued to the canopy.
I'm not there yet, but has anyone tried the black
silicone adhesive/sealant that is sold at autoparts
stores, used to seal windshields to the rubber
weatherstrip. Seems like it might work.....
Rico, XL, mid-fuse. and on hold
__________________________________
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Doug Kotinek <doug_k@yahoo.com>
I've been lurking for awhile and am curious to know if
anyone is interested in a CH 300 kit, partially
assembled.
Several years ago, a friend had started to build a CH
300 but changed his mind and went on to build and
finish an RV-9A. I volunteered to poke around the
'net for him.
If there is anyone who might be interested, please
contact me directly. I, currently, don't have
detailed information, but can definitely get it (&
pictures) for anyone interested.
Thanks for your time.
Doug Kotinek
Rapid City, SD.
__________________________________
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
List,
Harbor freight has a table top band saw with a
12" throat for under $100. Works great. They also
have a full size upright model with a 14" throat on
sale at $219 from $319 here in the San Diego stores.
I have both - they are a steal.
Brandon Tucker
HDS
Do not archive
__________________________________
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy adhesive again |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
Hi folks,
there is an intersting article about glueing the Plexiglas to aluminum in
one the last issues of Sprt Aviation.
Thilo Kind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy adhesive again
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland"
<larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Hi List,
> Well I've procrastinated long enough and the rubber trim
> has to be glued to the canopy. That isn't so challenging,
> but the little patch on each side of the rear edge where
> the rubber trim is only holding onto aluminum is curious.
> What do you do there? And what does one do about
> getting the aluminum and the acrylic to stay together
> in a patch that is without screws or fasteners? Anyone
> glue the canopy to the aluminum in this area?
> This little corner each side of the canopy is troubling
> and I'm sure some of you 601 builders have been there.
> I'd be pleased to hear what was done before the fact.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS and getting close....after 4-1/2 years...
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy adhesive again |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 2/7/04 1:55 PM, Rico Voss at vozzen@yahoo.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
>
>> rubber trim
>>> has to be glued to the canopy.
>
> I'm not there yet, but has anyone tried the black
> silicone adhesive/sealant that is sold at autoparts
> stores, used to seal windshields to the rubber
> weatherstrip. Seems like it might work.....
>
> Rico, XL, mid-fuse. and on hold
On nonporous surfaces silicone sealant peels off too easily. The stuff to
use to glue the weather strip on to the canopy is 3M weather-strip adhesive.
This can be found at some auto parts stores and most building supply stores.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Panel and engine installed.
Nearly done.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
I'm no expert but I have been told that Tygon tubing is good and does not
deteriorate. I used it in my wings where fuel lines are hard to replace. I
checked it during my annual it's still like new.
It is pale yellow and flexible. I used 1/4" for 80 hp. I only used ZAC
supplied fuel line where it is easy to get at.
Chuck D.
N701TX
It was great flying here (Central Texas) today.
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel Lines: Nylo-Seal or other Nylon 11 tubing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Scott and Valeree Stout
<the_stouts@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Is anyone using nylo-seal or similar nylon 11 type tubing for fuel?
> If so, what type of fuel are you using, 100LL? Auto gas?
> Any problems or pitfalls with the tubing? the fittings?
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Firewall penetrations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
My 601HD will be Stratus Subaru powered and has the 8 gallon fuselage tank. My
electrical system will run two batteries, both located behind the right seat.
If any builder out there is running a similar setup I'd appreciate knowing where
you made the various firewall penetrations. Pictures would be very helpful.
George
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ALEMBIC7@aol.com
Would Guy Davis, Denver CO. and anyone else flying a 701 with a geo/suzuki
engine please contact me off list? Thanks in advance
AZLurker
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "joe" <purplemoon99@bellsouth.net>
saw saw saw The bottom line is this . Go to Lowe's buy the cheap littel table
top modle about ahundred bucks. It will cut any thing that you are going to
cut building a airplane. I've had one for two years and it works great I cut
heavy alum. wood ,card board,plastic,thin sheet metal. I f you are looking for
a deal wait a year I'll sell you mine for 50.00. See YA. J.G.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Firewall penetrations
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
>
> My 601HD will be Stratus Subaru powered and has the 8 gallon fuselage
tank. My electrical system will run two batteries, both located behind the
right seat. If any builder out there is running a similar setup I'd
appreciate knowing where you made the various firewall penetrations.
Pictures would be very helpful.
>
> George
George,
I placed my batteries on a tray attached between the top rear spar and the
J-section behind it. Battery cables run
from there out the lightening hole behind the seat and forward to the
lightening hole turning in under the seat
to the center of the spar and forward to the firewall, right and up the
firewall diagonal and thru a grommet
in the firewall near the same place that a ground-bus connector is attached.
My fuel line exits an 8-gallon tank
just right of center, goes down and forward thru the firewall to connect
with the gascolator. Electrical bundles
go thru 2 grommets left side of the firewall 4" or so below the engine mount
bolt and clamp on the angle coming
out and use engine mount tubes to support and distribute connectons.
Pictures of these are best seen on the engine page of my site beginning
about 7 frames down, electrical page shows battery routing and header tank
page shows fuel connection line from inside. If you scout around, you'll
see the entirety of what I've done to make these connectons. I think it's
all there.
Best of luck
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Thanks, Larry.
George
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Firewall penetrations
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland"
<larrymc@qconline.com>
>
>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Firewall penetrations
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
<grs-pms@comcast.net>
> >
> > My 601HD will be Stratus Subaru powered and has the 8 gallon fuselage
> tank. My electrical system will run two batteries, both located behind the
> right seat. If any builder out there is running a similar setup I'd
> appreciate knowing where you made the various firewall penetrations.
> Pictures would be very helpful.
> >
> > George
>
>
> George,
> I placed my batteries on a tray attached between the top rear spar and the
> J-section behind it. Battery cables run
> from there out the lightening hole behind the seat and forward to the
> lightening hole turning in under the seat
> to the center of the spar and forward to the firewall, right and up the
> firewall diagonal and thru a grommet
> in the firewall near the same place that a ground-bus connector is
attached.
> My fuel line exits an 8-gallon tank
> just right of center, goes down and forward thru the firewall to connect
> with the gascolator. Electrical bundles
> go thru 2 grommets left side of the firewall 4" or so below the engine
mount
> bolt and clamp on the angle coming
> out and use engine mount tubes to support and distribute connectons.
> Pictures of these are best seen on the engine page of my site beginning
> about 7 frames down, electrical page shows battery routing and header tank
> page shows fuel connection line from inside. If you scout around, you'll
> see the entirety of what I've done to make these connectons. I think
it's
> all there.
>
> Best of luck
> Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
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