Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:58 AM - Re: Prop Installation on Stratus Subaru - CH601hds (The Meiste's)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: Prop Installation on Stratus Subaru - CH601hds (Larry McFarland)
3. 03:19 PM - Rotax 912 coolant leak (WAYNE BEATTIE)
4. 07:10 PM - Oil coolers (Rick)
5. 08:00 PM - Re: Rotax 912 coolant leak (Gary Gower)
6. 08:06 PM - Re: Oil coolers (Benford2@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Installation on Stratus Subaru - CH601hds |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
> I thought that perhaps the inside set of 2 bolts (4 per prop blade) are
not necessary because the clamping force of the lager bolts is sufficient.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You are correct.
If you are using the Warp 3 blade prop, all you can do is clamp it with the
large inner squash plate bolts, and the outer most small 1/4 inch bolts as
the plate will prevent you from using the inner set of 1/4 inch holes ( but
call Warp first and verify this but I believe that is how your setup must
be).
Also note on the instructions the torque required for these bolts, as they
are tightened to a much higher torque the we normally tighten things on the
plane.
Kelly
601 HD
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Installation on Stratus Subaru - CH601hds |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "j.breit" <j.breit@comcast.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Prop Installation on Stratus Subaru - CH601hds
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "j.breit" <j.breit@comcast.net>
>
> I having difficulty figuring out how to install my prop on a Stratus
Subaru and wonder if anyone else had a similar situation. The 3/8" face
plate provided by ZAC appears to have to be placed between the hub and the
back plate for the spinner in order to provide clearance for the 1/4" bolts
that bolt the hub to the 4" prop extension. However the diameter of the face
plate (squash plate) is too large to allow insertion of the inside set of
smaller bolts for that clamp the hub together.
>
> I thought that perhaps the inside set of 2 bolts (4 per prop blade) are
not necessary because the clamping force of the lager bolts is sufficient.
Or perhaps I got a face plate that was too large in diameter.
You're correct, Mr Breit,
I found the same issue and spoke with Warp Drive about this. They offered a
solution, but I ended up turning the plate OD down to 5.437 which is just
enough to get the inside bottom prop bolts to fit.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS Stratus
Message 3
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| Subject: | Rotax 912 coolant leak |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: WAYNE BEATTIE <waynebeattie@optonline.net>
Looking for anyone that has experienced this and what is required to fix it.
After about 4 months of in-activity in the basement, my 912 has developed a drip
of coolant. It is coming from a small open hole in the bottom of the case directly
under where the water pump is located. It is not coming from the case/housing
interface (as I had hoped). That would be a relatively easy fix of replacing
the gasket.
I assume that this hole is there to let you know that the seal in the water pump
has begun to fail rather, than filling the chamber and getting into the oil.
Looking at the exploded view of the engine in the water pump area, this looks like
major surgery with the back of the case being popped off to replace the seal.
I intend to call Lockwood Monday to get their opinion, but I would like to hear
from someone that has been there and if it is a fix that can be done without
removing the motor from the aircraft. (actually, that last is irrelevant since
I also discovered what I think is a crack in the motor mount today as well)
This engine only has 220 hours on it. Could this have happened because I park it
for several months in the winter??
Wayne
N601WB
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
Hi guys.
The Hobbs on my Zodie HD clicked past the 20 mark this morning. I'm half
way to the magic number 40 when I can finally get outta this 50 mile
circle. All's going well, except the Jabiru 3300's CHT and oil temps
are still hotter than I want to see. At 2750- 2900 RPM's my hottest
cylinder runs about 335 degrees and the oil temp is about 230 degrees.
Lower RPM's yield CHT's 0f 250-300 and oil temps of 180.
I'd like to go to a larger oil cooler, the one that's in it is pretty
puny. I called the local Jabiru dealer in Fresno and he emailed me a pic
of his installation: http://www.lightflyers.com/oilcooler.jpg , a much
heftier multi-core setup.
I know a lot of you guys have gone down this road before, so I'm asking
for suggestions on what and where to pick up the right oil cooler. I'm
gonna hit a couple of the local race car suppliers tomorrow and see what
they have, but if any of you have already done the research and have any
thoughts, I'm all ears... errr, eyes.
Thanks,
Rick Pitcher
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 coolant leak |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
All of us (Rotax owners) will be waiting for the Lockwood comment,
here in our club there are several 912's with lots of hours and
without problems, so I cant help in this.
I dont think is because of the winter... all 912's use antifreeze...
Good luck and keep us posted.
Saludos
Gsry Gower
Do not archive.
--- WAYNE BEATTIE <waynebeattie@optonline.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: WAYNE BEATTIE
> <waynebeattie@optonline.net>
>
> Looking for anyone that has experienced this and what is required to
> fix it.
>
> After about 4 months of in-activity in the basement, my 912 has
> developed a drip of coolant. It is coming from a small open hole in
> the bottom of the case directly under where the water pump is
> located. It is not coming from the case/housing interface (as I had
> hoped). That would be a relatively easy fix of replacing the gasket.
>
> I assume that this hole is there to let you know that the seal in the
> water pump has begun to fail rather, than filling the chamber and
> getting into the oil.
>
> Looking at the exploded view of the engine in the water pump area,
> this looks like major surgery with the back of the case being popped
> off to replace the seal.
>
> I intend to call Lockwood Monday to get their opinion, but I would
> like to hear from someone that has been there and if it is a fix that
> can be done without removing the motor from the aircraft. (actually,
> that last is irrelevant since I also discovered what I think is a
> crack in the motor mount today as well)
>
> This engine only has 220 hours on it. Could this have happened
> because I park it for several months in the winter??
>
>
> Wayne
> N601WB
>
__________________________________
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 3/21/2004 8:11:35 PM Mountain Standard Time,
rick.pitcher@verizon.net writes:
> lightflyers.com/oilcooler.jpg , a much
> heftier multi-core setup.
> I know a lot of you guys have gone down this road before, so I'm asking
> for suggestions on what and where to pick up the right oil cooler. I'm
> gonna hit a couple of the local race car suppliers tomorrow and see what
> they have, but if any of you have already done the research and have any
> thoughts, I'm all ears... errr, eyes.
>
Go to google and look for Fluidyne. They make nice oil coolers and Summit
racing sells them. No a bad price either..
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