Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:46 AM - Cortec (caspainhower@aep.com)
2. 04:19 AM - Re: 601XL wingtips (caspainhower@aep.com)
3. 04:42 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 04/11/04 (Grant Corriveau)
4. 06:19 AM - Re: Cortec primer? (Robert Eli)
5. 06:30 AM - Re: 601XL wing tips (Ray Montagne)
6. 07:32 AM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Cy Galley)
7. 08:31 AM - Re: N633Z's first flight was today! It's a CH601XL with a Jabiru 3300. ()
8. 08:57 AM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Frank Jones)
9. 10:20 AM - Re: Antenna Connectors (wizard-24@juno.com)
10. 11:14 AM - Re: Test Pilot (Traveling Man)
11. 11:14 AM - Re: Antenna Connectors (pcondon)
12. 12:01 PM - Re: Re: Test Pilot (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
13. 12:05 PM - towing (Brett Hanley)
14. 12:38 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
15. 12:46 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
16. 01:37 PM - Primer (Dave & Darlene)
17. 01:57 PM - Header tanks (John Karnes)
18. 02:41 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Frank Jones)
19. 02:55 PM - Re: Test Pilot (Jackie B. Johnson)
20. 03:18 PM - XL Parts (Dave & Darlene)
21. 03:25 PM - Re: Header tanks (Steve Freeman)
22. 04:32 PM - Re: Test Pilot (Steve Freeman)
23. 04:34 PM - Re: XL Parts (Steve Freeman)
24. 05:30 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Tim & Diane Shankland)
25. 05:42 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
26. 06:23 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Ray Montagne)
27. 06:25 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Ray Montagne)
28. 06:26 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Ray Montagne)
29. 07:09 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Frank Jones)
30. 07:24 PM - Insurance costs (Gordon Arbeitman)
31. 08:30 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (wizard-24@juno.com)
32. 09:11 PM - Re: Test Pilot (Brett Ray)
33. 09:52 PM - Re: Cortec primer? (jmcnally)
34. 10:12 PM - Re: Antenna Connectors (Ray Montagne)
35. 11:31 PM - Oldest 701 (Dabusmith@aol.com)
Message 1
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|July 24, 2002) at04/12/2004 06:46:05 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
I had been using water to thin the cortec as well, but was getting air
bubbles, like froth, in the primer. I just picked up a quart of denatured
alcohol and thinned out my last quart (which seems a lot thicker than the
previous) and it seemed to work better. Part of the problem could be using
tap water, but if I'm going to have to buy distilled (which I probably
should have been using all along) then I figure might as well use alcohol.
I think it even cut the drying time compared to using water, but that could
be affected by temp, humidity, etc.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601XL 0-235 lyc
>Kevin , , , my instructions said to thin with water. ZAC sells small
>
> What is the latest on the primer debate? I have read all the archives and
>have determined that I want 373 in green--thin with hardware grade
denatured
>alcohol. Where can I get some in small quantity (quart or 1 gallon)?.
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL wingtips |
|July 24, 2002) at04/12/2004 07:18:42 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
Steve,
I was able to reduce the gap quite a bit by removing some of the LE
curvature by hand. I would place my thumbs in the center of the bend and
pushing in while pulling outward on the skin ajacent to the bend. I
couldn't get it perfect, but got a reasonably snug fit when done.
Craig S.
N601XS
>Has anyone else found it to be impossible to fit the fiberglass tip snug
into the
>formed bend of the LE skin? No matter how hard I tried I ended up with a
gap.
>What would be a good material to fill this gap with?
>Steve Mineart
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
message.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 04/11/04 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
I also use the local towing company with the tilt-bed truck - it works very
well. I just lift a little on the tail at the critical point to keep it
from dragging in the ground as the mains transition on/off the bed.
I also watch like a hawk to make sure that the driver doesn't cinch it down
too tightly. I figure he's used to attaching a steel car frame, and the
ease with which his hydraulic pulley and chains could tear this little
aluminum airframe apart makes me a little nervous! ;-) But after a couple
of seasons of going back and forth to the airport, I've got him pretty well
trained.
The wings fit one-at-a-time in the back of my van.
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
> Have you called a towing company and asked about having them take it out
> there on one of their tilt-bed trucks? Mine charged about $50 and I
> didn't have to worry about damaging the airplane... money well spent
> IMHO. I had to put a couple of 2X6 ramps under the mains to ease the
> angle so the tail wouldn't hit the pavement when the driver winched the
> plane onto the tilt bed.
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Eli" <robert.eli@adelphia.net>
Some additional info on the Cortec 373, and a correction... Arthur Rice of
All-Spec said he would only sell olive green cortec 373 in two gal lots. But
he would have to see enough demand to justify repackaging it from 55 gal
drums (not 5 gal cans as I stated previously). I knew that it wouldn't work
if that was as good as he could do for us. On the issue of drying: I found
that if I applied it in a very thin coat, that the behavior was much
different as compared to a thick coat. Like some of us, I initially tried to
apply it with a standard sponge brush, but it went on thick and never seemed
to cure properly (it was tacky to the touch, and seemed to stay that way).
When I developed my method of applying it very thinly, it was dry to the
touch within an hour and not tacky. Also, it seemed to be fully dry (cured)
within a few hours, although I let it cure overnight just to be safe. On the
issue of thinning, I haven't tried it yet, but when I do I am going to add
distilled water very slowly in small droplets (with something like a spray
bottle) while mixing with an electric drill mixing attachment. Hopefully, I
can find a way to avoid the little bubbles and froth that have been
reported. It must work in some way since the spec sheet specifies thinning
with water for both spraying and brushing or roller. There are no
alternative thinners mentioned (such as alcohol). There is a lot of emphasis
on keeping it well mixed.
I have a copy of a letter to Boeing Aircraft (addressed to Jim Van Avery)
stating that: Cortec VCI-373 was developed to perform the functions of a
"Wash Primer", maximizing adhesion over aluminum, stainless steel, and other
surfaces which are difficult to bond to. Cortec VCI 373 is a water based,
non-acid based, environmentally friendly product. Standard "Wash Primers"
generally use Phosphoric acid, and are formulation specific. Both the acid
content and high solvent content restrict their use. VCI 373 was developed
to eliminate both of these concerns. By definition, VCI 373 is not a "Wash
Primer", but does duplicate the bonding properties desired. (signed Larry
Gelner, Product manager, Cortec Corp.)
Bob Eli
CH701 (rudder finished...working on stabilizer)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Eli
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cortec primer?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Eli" <robert.eli@adelphia.net>
My apologies to one and all for not reporting back on the Cortec 373 as
promised. I did conduct some detail discussions with Brian Wuertz at the
Cortex factory in St. Paul, with regard to the durability of the 373 product
on interior aircraft surfaces. According to the chemists at the plant, as
long as the primer is not exposed to direct weathering (exterior surfaces)
the protection lasts indefinitely as long as the coating remains intact. The
lifetime of 10 years that some have discussed only applies to external
surfaces, and is primarily a weathering failure. Given that some complex
chemistry is probably involved in the coating, I question the practice of
thinning with alcohol, without checking with Brian at Cortec. The spec sheet
says only to use water. I have not tried thinning it since I haven't needed
to (see below). I do plan to try spraying it with HVLP equipment soon, and
I will thin with water according to spec.
I worked on trying to get the supplier here in the east (All-Spec), in
particular, Arthur Rice, the proprietor to break down the Olive Green 5 gal
cans into at least gallon cans. The best I could do was to break it down
into gal cans, but he wanted a minimum purchase of 2 gal. So, given the
spread rate of the quart of clear that I purchased from Zenith, even a
gallon is much more than I need. I have just completed my rudder, on which
I used the clear Cortec. I found that the secret is to develop a method of
applying it in very thin coats. I experimented with it and discovered I
could apply it very thinly with a 1 inch sponge brush that has a plastic
central stiffener. I trimmed most of the tip of the sponge with scissors,
until I exposed the stiffener. This allowed my to put a very thin layer as a
stripe along the rivet lines were parts mate, with significant pressure to
force a thin coat. I first dab very small amounts every inch or so for 12 to
18 inches, and then I go back over this with my custom sponge brush to
spread it into a very thin coat. The spec sheet says that full protection is
achieved with 2.5 mils (that's a pretty thin layer). This is the recommended
thickness when spraying. Van primes his quick build kits with a clear wash
primer that looks very similar to Cortec after it is applied. He says that
is good enough (and he isn't using 6061T6!!). The cortec primer is designed
to be a direct substitute for standard wash primers according to cortec spec
sheets.
On bonding strength... I cannot scrape my cortec off without some serious
scuffing. It appears to be very tough and is bonded well. I only clean the
aluminum with lacquer thinner. It is my opinion that the peeling problems
that some are having is primarily due to the coating being either applied
too thick and/or on a less that very clean surface. This stuff bonds as good
as anything that I have experience with. It is certainly adequate for my
needs.
Bob Eli
CH701 (starting on the stabilizer)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Schoenberger
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cortec primer?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
<hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Kevin , , , my instructions said to thin with water. ZAC sells small
qualtities of the clear, but I don't believe they have the green. I had my
paint store try to add some green, but the results weren't as nice as the
Zinc Chromate, so I just use the clear. After a while one gets used to and
likes the sheen of the clear. FWIW. Robert Schoenberger 701
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Cortec primer?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
>
> What is the latest on the primer debate? I have read all the archives and
have determined that I want 373 in green--thin with hardware grade denatured
alcohol. Where can I get some in small quantity (quart or 1 gallon)?.
>
> Kevin Bonds
> Nashville, Tn
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL wing tips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 4/11/04 9:16 AM, "tgrazian@bellsouth.net" <tgrazian@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <tgrazian@bellsouth.net>
>
> I just finished my RH wing with aux tanks, strobes and wing locker. I also
> could not fit my fiberglass wing tips to no gap at the L.E. with the 45deg cut
> parallel to the direction of flight.
I don't think that 45 degrees worked out exactly on the pre-molded end caps.
I got a pretty good fit by allowing the cap to sit an an angle that provided
a good fit and then trimmed the top skin as appropriate. I ended up with no
gap and there was only a couple of degrees difference from the plans...
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
What radio?
----- Original Message -----
From: <wizard-24@juno.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Antenna Connectors
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
>
>
> Tried to install my antennae this weekend. But after running the coax
> cable, when I went to install the BNC connectors (which I've never done
> before), I discovered two problems:
>
> 1. The NAV antennae (AV-532) apparently does not use the standard
> BNC connection, but instead has two screw terminals, which appears to
> connect to each separate aerial. How do I connect one coax cable to these
> two terminals? Does the center conductor of the cable go to both
> terminals? What about the shielding? Straight to ground? There's nothing
> in the instructions, except for one line that reads "some models supplied
> with balun cable", which apparently mine wasn't. Now for a really stupid
> question....what's a balun, and do I need one?
>
> 2. On the back of the radio, the antennae connections are not BNC
> either. The instructions say that I need to solder the coax directly to
> the back ports "using standard avionics procedures". As you might have
> guessed, I'm lost on this one too! The back ports on the radio tray are
> hard to describe.....look more like lugs, with a very small opening
> extending from the side of each lug. Hopefully someone will know what the
> heck I'm trying to describe.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Fortunato
> 601XL
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | N633Z's first flight was today! It's a CH601XL with a |
Jabiru 3300.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
Congratulations!
Do not Archive
GGP
Message 8
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| Subject: | Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
While on the subject of Antenna connectors I have a dumb question. I'm
about to hook up a second radio (The Vertex VXA-210 is really
disappointing and I bought and Icom A200). I wonder if I can simply plug
a splitter into the BNC to create two connections to the antenna and run
each radio through the splitter to the same antenna. Anyone know?
Frank Jones
C-GYXQ
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
> What is the manufacturer and mode of the radio?
The radio is an ASC (?) I think....combo unit that has the COM/NAV
together, and also has a built-in intercom. Bought it at Wag-Aero I
think. The radio slips into a pre-wired tray, and on the back of the tray
is where there are two connection port thingys (excuse the technical
lingo), one for each antenna.
> Check this link out: <http://www.rami.com/gaa3.htm#AV-532>
> If that is the antenna then it appears that the balun is included as
> an integrated cable assembly on the 'L' model only.
That's the one I have -- except I don't have the 'L' model. If you need
one of these baluns, why the heck do they sell ones without it? Guess
I'll have to send a request to Rami, since I don't feel comfortable
building one. Given that I want to mount this antenna on top of the
vertical fin (still haven't figured out the best way), not sure where I'm
going to hide that balun!
Mike Fortunato
601XL
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com>
Steve,
I'd say you are making an excellent decision. I've already discussed doing
the exact same thing with my instructor at the stick when my plane is built.
My instructor (and eventually I) will have an additional measure of safety
however, as I intend to add a BRS to my HD.
Good Luck
Bob Lindley
CH601-HD - Now I've got a rudder and lots of paper!
Do Not Archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
................"If so, solder the coax
shield to the ground lug and the coax center conductor to the remaining lug.
Make sure you don't short the shield to the center conductor. DONT TEST
FOR A SHORT WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER OR VOLT/OHM METER!!!..........."
Sure you can test such a joint with a multi meter or continuity meter.
Remove the radio from the tray and undo the center conductir from the balun
on the nav and check for a short in the antenna installation and soldering.
Your radio tray has the solder joints and connections and are effectly
isolated when you remove the radio from the tray. I think you meant that you
can't check for shorts in this case with the radio installed or the antenna
hooked up. In that case the impedenance and coupling of the radio front end
will effect your measurements.
e: Zenith-List: Antenna Connectors
From: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 4/11/04 8:51 PM, "wizard-24@juno.com" <wizard-24@juno.com> wrote:
> 1. The NAV antennae (AV-532) apparently does not use the standard
> BNC connection, but instead has two screw terminals, which appears to
> connect to each separate aerial. How do I connect one coax cable to these
> two terminals?
You'll definitely need the Balun. The Balun converts from an unbalanced
transmission line to a balanced transmission line. Your NAV antenna is a
dipole which requires a balanced feed to operate correctly.
Coaxial baluns can be made. Almost any Amateur Radio shop has antenna
construction books that cover coaxial balan construction. Coaxial baluns
are larger than other methods but certainly in the realm of home
construction.
Proper construction requires knowing the impedance of the receiver antenna
terminal and the antenna. Baluns are usually either 4:1 or 1:1. Best guess
is that the receiver is 50 ohms and the antenna is 200 which requires a 4:1
balun.
If a ready made balun is available for purchase or was missing from your
shipment then I'd pursue either a purchase or a claim over trying to
manufacture one. There is lots of opportunity to introduce a short in the
antenna feed line when building a balun if you're not experienced with this
sort of thing...If so, solder the coax
shield to the ground lug and the coax center conductor to the remaining lug.
Make sure you don't short the shield to the center conductor. DONT TEST
FOR A SHORT WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER OR VOLT/OHM METER!!!
>
> 2. The instructions say that I need to solder the coax directly to
> the back ports "using standard avionics procedures".
>
Soldering cables directly to a VHF radio is not what I would consider normal
and may lead to a lossy connection but it does not appear that you have much
option here. A photo of the lugs would be helpful. Most likely one lug is
grounded and the other is the antenna terminal.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ok so I'm going to buck the trend just a little. But B4 I do I will add that
this is entirely a mater of choice and you need to do whatever makes you
feel comfortable with the risk you are going to take.
So having said that I have to point out that the Zodiac (HDS in my case) has
to be the easiest plane on the face of the planet to fly. I did not use a
test pilot nor did I have any flying experience in any ZAC product.
I did persuade a friend to let me do 4 approaches from the front seat of his
Acroduster, Hey it was the only thing with a low wing and a stick...(it was
a biplane so it had both a high AND a low wing...:)..)
I had only flown a C152 before that and had about 90 hours TT.
When my plane was signed of I did a dozen or so high speed runs down the
active runway and allowed the thing to lift up by 10 feet or so to get an
idea of flying speeds.
Even though I had not flown for 4 months I felt for me this was ample
practice, especially with a 6000ft runway.
My first landing was the best I ever made.
Approach speed is about 80mph and you have to drive it to the runway under a
little power otherwise the sink rate is too fast and will lead to a bounce.
I am about to start on an RV-7 and I will definatly get some transition
training first because that is a whole different (hi performance) airplane.
But a ZAC really was a non event on the first flight.
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Traveling Man
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Test Pilot
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Traveling Man"
--> <travliman58@hotmail.com>
Steve,
I'd say you are making an excellent decision. I've already discussed doing
the exact same thing with my instructor at the stick when my plane is built.
My instructor (and eventually I) will have an additional measure of safety
however, as I intend to add a BRS to my HD.
Good Luck
Bob Lindley
CH601-HD - Now I've got a rudder and lots of paper!
Do Not Archive
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brett Hanley <bretttdc@yahoo.com>
I had to move my entire project last year. The wings
and fuse were finished at the time. I hired a
platform style wrecker truck. He simply winched it up
on to the platform and away we went. The cost was
around fifty dollars. Not a bad deal for the right
gear with insurance included!
Brett
__________________________________
Message 14
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| Subject: | Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Mike,
Speaking of "hiding" Nav antennas. I know Vans sells an antenna for
installation in the fiberglass wingtip.
I don't know anymore about it but you might be able to hide one of these in
the XL wingtip.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
wizard-24@juno.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Antenna Connectors
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
> What is the manufacturer and mode of the radio?
The radio is an ASC (?) I think....combo unit that has the COM/NAV together,
and also has a built-in intercom. Bought it at Wag-Aero I think. The radio
slips into a pre-wired tray, and on the back of the tray is where there are
two connection port thingys (excuse the technical lingo), one for each
antenna.
> Check this link out: <http://www.rami.com/gaa3.htm#AV-532>
> If that is the antenna then it appears that the balun is included as
> an integrated cable assembly on the 'L' model only.
That's the one I have -- except I don't have the 'L' model. If you need one
of these baluns, why the heck do they sell ones without it? Guess I'll have
to send a request to Rami, since I don't feel comfortable building one.
Given that I want to mount this antenna on top of the vertical fin (still
haven't figured out the best way), not sure where I'm going to hide that
balun!
Mike Fortunato
601XL
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
Two recievers can be connected using a splitter but each transmitter must have
a seperate antenna unless you use an antenna switch that will prevent the transmitted
power from being fed directly into the receiver of the other radio. A
general rule is to mount a transmitting antenna at least three feet from any other
antenna. You could burn out a radio by transmitting full power directly into
the antenna port. A transceiver has an internal antenna switch that isolates
the receiver from the transmitter during transmit.
Bryan Martin
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
> While on the subject of Antenna connectors I have a dumb question. I'm
> about to hook up a second radio (The Vertex VXA-210 is really
> disappointing and I bought and Icom A200). I wonder if I can simply plug
> a splitter into the BNC to create two connections to the antenna and run
> each radio through the splitter to the same antenna. Anyone know?
>
> Frank Jones
> C-GYXQ
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Just need you Canadian guys to give me your thoughts on the primer that Canadian
Tire sells. It's the Motomaster Aluminum Primer. It says on the spray can
that it replaces Zinc Chromate. It's yellow in colour. I want to do what's best
for my XL
David Nimigon
Seba Beach
Alberta
Plans building a 601XL
scrounging up materials
1% done 99% to go
Message 17
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes@earthlink.net>
Anybody out there have a 8 gallon header tank that they want to part with?
John Karnes
N601JK
Port Orchard, WA
Message 18
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| Subject: | Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
Thanks Bryan. Makes sense. I'll need the two antennas then.
I was thinking of wiring my own audio panel with 3 switches. One to
select XMIT, and the other 2 to individually select receive audio. Can
anyone tell me if my wiring diagram makes sense? Specifically if the
receive audio can be joined together before going to my intercom. I
expect so.
This is what I was thinking:
http://www.iprules.com/plane/twocomm.jpg
Frank
>Two recievers can be connected using a splitter but each transmitter
must >have a seperate antenna unless you use an antenna switch that will
prevent >the transmitted power from being fed directly into the receiver
of the >other radio. A general rule is to mount a transmitting antenna
at least >three feet from any other antenna. You could burn out a radio
by >transmitting full power directly into the antenna port. A
transceiver has >an internal antenna switch that isolates the receiver
from the transmitter >during transmit.
>
>Bryan Martin
Message 19
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jackie B. Johnson" <zjohnson@ucnsb.net>
Steve, the Zodiac is really easy to fly,but you could overcontrol if you
haven't flown much lately..suggest minimun checkout if you haven't flown
lately..I flew first flight in my 601, with 100 hrs total, and recent check
out..did taxing up to 50 mph, to point of liftoff.. non avent on 1st flight,
my first low wing also..but only you know your limits..where are you
located..?.there's getting to be quite a few Zodiacs around now,and many
people are willing to help..TD or Tri gear??
SUN and FUN ??
Jackie N5JZ 430 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Test Pilot
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
>
> Hi List,
>
> I've been absent from the list for awhile but been plugging along on my
project. I'm still a few months off, but starting to think about the first
flight pretty seriously.
>
> Does anybody have any experience or advice, comments, suggestions, flames,
etc. about using a test pilot for the first flight? I have a wife and 2
young kids, and whereas I am confident in my construction I almost feel it
would be irresponsible to not use a test pilot for the first flight.
>
> My main concern is the engine. A Pre-Mykal Stratus Conversion. It just
scares (the hell out of) me that the first time I am going to really put
this engine to test is on it's maiden flight. I know I can do static tests
and taxi up the butt, but are those the same as the forces on the first
flight?
>
> Any thoughts, insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve (Almost Done) Freeman
> 601HDS
> Stratus EA-81
> N902AL
>
>
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Anyone got some XL parts they aren't going to need. Any unfinished projects.
Dave
601XL
1% Done 99% to go
collecting up items
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Header tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
I have a 16.....
Steve Freeman
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Header tanks
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes@earthlink.net>
>
> Anybody out there have a 8 gallon header tank that they want to part with?
>
> John Karnes
> N601JK
> Port Orchard, WA
>
>
Message 22
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
Hi,
I am not current right now as I have been focusing on finishing the plane
and renting spam cans just doesn;t do it for me anymore. However, I fully
intend to get ab 5 to 10 hours of instruction along with a BFR as I get
closer to the date. I am not in a huge hurry to fly as I enjoy the building
as much as the flying.
I am hoping that I can find a local builder with an HDS to get some time in.
I know of a couple of HD's around but not HDS. I'm not that concerend about
controlling the aircraft in normal flight it is, what if there is an engine
failure on first flight? That is my fear....those first 5 minutes, after
that I think I will relax, alot.
I might be putting the cart a little before the horse...but I'm just now
starting to make that final list of things to do on completion. I figure I
have 32 to 3 months if I go at my current pace, 6 months if I slow down
because it gets so damn hot here in the summer.
Thanks for the advice.
steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jackie B. Johnson" <zjohnson@ucnsb.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Test Pilot
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jackie B. Johnson"
<zjohnson@ucnsb.net>
>
> Steve, the Zodiac is really easy to fly,but you could overcontrol if you
> haven't flown much lately..suggest minimun checkout if you haven't flown
> lately..I flew first flight in my 601, with 100 hrs total, and recent
check
> out..did taxing up to 50 mph, to point of liftoff.. non avent on 1st
flight,
> my first low wing also..but only you know your limits..where are you
> located..?.there's getting to be quite a few Zodiacs around now,and many
> people are willing to help..TD or Tri gear??
> SUN and FUN ??
> Jackie N5JZ 430 hrs
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Test Pilot
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
> >
> > Hi List,
> >
> > I've been absent from the list for awhile but been plugging along on my
> project. I'm still a few months off, but starting to think about the
first
> flight pretty seriously.
> >
> > Does anybody have any experience or advice, comments, suggestions,
flames,
> etc. about using a test pilot for the first flight? I have a wife and 2
> young kids, and whereas I am confident in my construction I almost feel it
> would be irresponsible to not use a test pilot for the first flight.
> >
> > My main concern is the engine. A Pre-Mykal Stratus Conversion. It just
> scares (the hell out of) me that the first time I am going to really put
> this engine to test is on it's maiden flight. I know I can do static
tests
> and taxi up the butt, but are those the same as the forces on the first
> flight?
> >
> > Any thoughts, insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Steve (Almost Done) Freeman
> > 601HDS
> > Stratus EA-81
> > N902AL
> >
> >
>
>
Message 23
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
Hi Dave,
I know someone who has the entire rear fuselage, and tail feathers to an
HDS. I believe they are the same for the XL. If I am not mistaken it is
only the Center Wing, wings and landing gear, that do not share many of the
same components as the HD and HDS. Ether way, I believe I know a motivated
seller for the rear fuselage and tail feathers.
Contact me off list for more info. stefree@qwest.net or 602-628-7000
Steve Freeman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: XL Parts
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene"
<dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
>
> Anyone got some XL parts they aren't going to need. Any unfinished
projects.
> Dave
> 601XL
> 1% Done 99% to go
> collecting up items
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
Frank,
It is considered a no no to connect two outputs directly together, this
can cause distortion and possible damage to one of the receivers. They
are typically connected through a resistor network and then into an
amplifier to recover the lost gain. There are plans for one in the
August and September 2002 issue of Kitplane magazine.
Tim Shankland
Frank Jones wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
>Thanks Bryan. Makes sense. I'll need the two antennas then.
>
>I was thinking of wiring my own audio panel with 3 switches. One to
>select XMIT, and the other 2 to individually select receive audio. Can
>anyone tell me if my wiring diagram makes sense? Specifically if the
>receive audio can be joined together before going to my intercom. I
>expect so.
>
>This is what I was thinking:
>
>http://www.iprules.com/plane/twocomm.jpg
>
>Frank
>
>
>
>>Two recievers can be connected using a splitter but each transmitter
>>
>>
>must >have a seperate antenna unless you use an antenna switch that will
>prevent >the transmitted power from being fed directly into the receiver
>of the >other radio. A general rule is to mount a transmitting antenna
>at least >three feet from any other antenna. You could burn out a radio
>by >transmitting full power directly into the antenna port. A
>transceiver has >an internal antenna switch that isolates the receiver
>from the transmitter >during transmit.
>
>
>>Bryan Martin
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
The transmit select part looks like it will work, the recieve select might be a problem. Connecting two reciever audio outputs together with simple switches might not work too well. You will probably have to isolate the two receiver audio circuits from each other. Putting a resistor in series with each switch would do the trick but might attenuate the signal too much. A simple two input op-amp circuit would be the best bet. Check the back issues of KitPlanes magazine for Jim Weirs' do-it-yourself articles. I remember a mini audio panel article a while back that might be just what you need. You can search for articles on KitPlanes web site. http://www.kitplanes.com
Bryan Martin
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
>
> I was thinking of wiring my own audio panel with 3 switches
> This is what I was thinking:
>
> http://www.iprules.com/plane/twocomm.jpg
>
> Frank
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 4/12/04 8:56 AM, "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I wonder if I can simply plug
> a splitter into the BNC to create two connections to the antenna and run
> each radio through the splitter to the same antenna. Anyone know?
>
Splitters are acceptable for receivers but are not acceptable for
transmitters. If you attempt to use a slitter with a transmitter then
you'll most certainly damage the transmitter.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 4/12/04 10:20 AM, "wizard-24@juno.com" <wizard-24@juno.com> wrote:
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
> The radio is an ASC (?)'
I was hoping that you could be more specific with the goal of performing an
online search to see if manuals were available that might provide additional
detail...
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 4/12/04 11:14 AM, "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org> wrote:
> Sure you can test such a joint with a multi meter or continuity meter.
NOT if the cable is soldered to the receiver. Circuit damage may result.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 29
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| Subject: | Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
Tim,
Thanks. I was afraid of that and am glad you point it out. I'll just
isolate the two comms then with a A-B receive switch. For me the pain of
building the appropriate circuit isn't worth the benefit of hearing both
receivers simultaneously. I'll still have the ability to use them
independently and still rely on my handheld for it's VOR capability.
I'll just need to find a convenient location to mount the handheld
antenna far enough away from the main antenna.
Frank
>It is considered a no no to connect two outputs directly together, this
>can cause distortion and possible damage to one of the receivers. They
>are typically connected through a resistor network and then into an
>amplifier to recover the lost gain. There are plans for one in the
>August and September 2002 issue of Kitplane magazine.
>
>Tim Shankland
Message 30
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gordon Arbeitman <gordona23@earthlink.net>
I've been lurking for awhile and I have a question. I called Falcon
Insurance to get a quote on a used 701 and I was shocked at the
numbers. They quoted me twice the premium I now pay to insure a $65K
Grumman Tiger and I estimated the hull value of the 701 at 35K.
What kinds of premiums are y'all paying ? I know that some folks just
don't insure but I'm unwilling to do that. Thanks for any info.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
> > The radio is an ASC (?)'
>
> I was hoping that you could be more specific with the goal of
> performing an online search to see if manuals were available that might
provide
> additional detail...
Actually, I already tried that (I even searched the Matronics lists). And
in fact, I have the manual that came with the radio, which unfortunately
isn't the least bit helpful. Apparently, that radio isn't even made any
longer (lucky me). Guess I'll send a question off to Wag Aero to see if
they can help. Hopefully the answer I get will be more than just "attach
antenna per avionics standards".
And for the record for those of you out there that have not yet bought a
NAV antenna.....be sure to buy one that has the damn balun attached!
But thanks for all the help Ray -- I appreciate it.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
do not archive
Message 32
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
Tom said
[Yes< be sure the engine will produce enough thrust and run at full
throttle
with the nose up in a strong climb attitude.
Run a test hooked to a thrust gage for a solid 2 minutes at full
throttle.
Measure thrust. ( rule of thumb is 4 lbs per horsepower) There
fore if you
think your engine is produceing 100 hp then you should get in
the ball park
of 400 lbs of thrust.
After a 5 minute cool down from the 2 minute full power run
repeat it.]
I think I might start with a 2 min. test. But then I would test it
much longer. I tested the Harley engine in climb attitude for 2 hours
stright non stop at wide open throttle. Along with alot of other
testing befor I took it up.
I'm not saying run yours that long, most aircraft engines won't take
it. But at least 10 min. if it will do it with out heating up.
I was testing an unknown so I wanted to be sure. Besides Harley had
already ran one for 10,000 hours stright with no problem.
Brett Ray
Message 33
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jmcnally" <jmcnally@charter.net>
There is a guy on "Barnstormers.com" selling green tinted Cortec for $75
per gallon in one gallon lots. He claims its new and not left from last
year. I have no idea of the quality and have never dealt with this person,
just passing on the information since its being discussed.
Joe McNally
Wisconsin
do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Connectors |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
> But thanks for all the help Ray -- I appreciate it.
>
Good luck Mike!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 35
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
List
Does anyone know how many hours the 701 with the most hours on it has?
Dave Smith
Graham WA.
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