Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:39 AM - Rudder Cable Fairlead (Jonathan Starke)
2. 02:00 AM - Inspection Hatch (Jonathan Starke)
3. 04:11 AM - Re: Inspection Hatch (Lawrence Webber)
4. 06:30 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead (Bill Steer)
5. 06:55 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead (Leo J. Corbalis)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead (Dan knezacek)
7. 07:02 AM - Re: Inspection Hatch (Dan knezacek)
8. 07:02 AM - Re: Inspection Hatch (Dan knezacek)
9. 07:43 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead (Leo Gates)
10. 07:45 AM - Re: Canopy restraints (Schemmel, Grant)
11. 07:46 AM - Re: baggage locker (Carlos Sa)
12. 07:48 AM - 912 hard start when hot (caspainhower@aep.com)
13. 08:28 AM - Re: 601 XL fuel sender layout (nhulin)
14. 10:18 AM - Follow up: front wheel bearing failure - CH601XL, stock (xl)
15. 10:25 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead (owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com)
16. 10:27 AM - Re: 912 hard start when hot (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
17. 11:08 AM - Re: 912 hard start when hot ()
18. 11:21 AM - Re: 601XL Firewall (kit built) (wizard-24@juno.com)
19. 11:55 AM - Tricycle vs Taildragger (caspainhower@aep.com)
20. 04:33 PM - Re: 912 hard start when hot (Dave Alberti)
21. 06:34 PM - 601 rear stabilizer spar (Tommy Clark)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rudder Cable Fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jonathan Starke" <jonathan@entry.co.za>
Hi All again...
I think that installing the rudder fairlead (Nylon slotted), where it exits the
fusalage, on either side, looks shoddy, mounted on the outside.
Do you guys think that there will be a problem if the nylon is mounted on
the inside of the skin, and just the fluted cover is in the outside -
obviously making sure that the cable does NOT touch metal etc...
TO me this looks neat and more streamlined.
Thnx for your input
Message 2
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| Subject: | Inspection Hatch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jonathan Starke" <jonathan@entry.co.za>
WOW this List is great, thnx to all that replied to my spar jig problem.
Another question, I am installing the Rotax 912S, thus the battery hatch
becomes redundant (In the back of the fusalage), but it would be great to
have an inspection hatch, how do you all feel about making the hatch in
the floor of the fusalage, just in front of the HT former, my thinking is that
you can kneel, and stick you head up into the fus and inspect the cables
etc..
Thnx
Message 3
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| Subject: | Inspection Hatch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lawrence Webber" <lawrencewebber@hotmail.com>
If it feels good do it inspection hatches are always a good idea as long as the
opening doesnt interfere with structure strength. where ever there is a critical
component or an item that can faili am cutting in an inspection opening ie:
fuselage side where flap actuator is mounted i am also investigating a way
to change forward top skin so it either opens like a gull wing or i can mount
with zues type fasteners for full access to instruments from the top side at my
age bending sucks.
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN Premium!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
I'm building an HD, but my plans show the nylon on the inside on 6F4, so
that's where I put it.
Bill
>
> I think that installing the rudder fairlead (Nylon slotted), where it
exits the
> fusalage, on either side, looks shoddy, mounted on the outside.
>
> Do you guys think that there will be a problem if the nylon is mounted on
> the inside of the skin, and just the fluted cover is in the outside -
> obviously making sure that the cable does NOT touch metal etc...
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I put it on the inside too. Works fine at 415 hours.
Leo Corbalis
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
>
> I'm building an HD, but my plans show the nylon on the inside on 6F4, so
> that's where I put it.
>
> Bill
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan knezacek" <dknezace@bconnex.net>
That's how I did it. Shouldn't be a problem. I thought that was how Zenith
did it.
Dan
> Hi All again...
>
> I think that installing the rudder fairlead (Nylon slotted), where it
exits the
> fusalage, on either side, looks shoddy, mounted on the outside.
>
> Do you guys think that there will be a problem if the nylon is mounted on
> the inside of the skin, and just the fluted cover is in the outside -
> obviously making sure that the cable does NOT touch metal etc...
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection Hatch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan knezacek" <dknezace@bconnex.net>
That's what I did. Just make sure you reinforce around the hole.
make a drawing and send it to Zenith.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan Starke" <jonathan@entry.co.za>
Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection Hatch
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jonathan Starke"
<jonathan@entry.co.za>
>
> WOW this List is great, thnx to all that replied to my spar jig problem.
>
> Another question, I am installing the Rotax 912S, thus the battery hatch
> becomes redundant (In the back of the fusalage), but it would be great to
> have an inspection hatch, how do you all feel about making the hatch in
> the floor of the fusalage, just in front of the HT former, my thinking is
that
> you can kneel, and stick you head up into the fus and inspect the cables
> etc..
>
> Thnx
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection Hatch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan knezacek" <dknezace@bconnex.net>
Lawrence,
I believe the forward skin is a part of the primary structure. I think it
would be better to make your instrument panel with removable panels to get
at the back of the instruments. This way if you decided to make a major
change later, you would not have to remove the entire bulkhead.
In any event this is something you need to talk to Zenith about.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Webber" <lawrencewebber@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Inspection Hatch
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lawrence Webber"
<lawrencewebber@hotmail.com>
>
>
> If it feels good do it inspection hatches are always a good idea as long
as the opening doesnt interfere with structure strength. where ever there
is a critical component or an item that can faili am cutting in an
inspection opening ie: fuselage side where flap actuator is mounted i am
also investigating a way to change forward top skin so it either opens like
a gull wing or i can mount with zues type fasteners for full access to
instruments from the top side at my age bending sucks.
>
>
> Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium!
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
I'm building a HDS, and I agree with Bill. My nylon fairleads are
inside on 6F4.
Bill Steer wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
>
>I'm building an HD, but my plans show the nylon on the inside on 6F4, so
>that's where I put it.
>
>Bill
>
>Do you guys think that there will be a problem if the nylon is mounted on
>the inside of the skin, and just the fluted cover is in the outside -
>obviously making sure that the cable does NOT touch metal etc...
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Canopy restraints |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel@Aeroflex.com>
As a way pull my (own design) forward tilt canopy down, I made a small bracket
to attach to the rear hoop, then I use a dog leash which snaps into the bracket.
Works great, is not so long as to get tangled in anything, and I can taxi
with it under one arm to keep the canopy partially open.
Grant Schemmel
Penrose, CO
601HDS trigear - O200
> Time: 04:39:41 PM PST US
> From: "Lawrence Webber" <lawrencewebber@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Canopy restraints
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lawrence Webber"
> <lawrencewebber@hotmail.com>
>
>
> A 2.00$ bungee cord is the easiest i have seen so far hooked
> to inside lip and
> depending on length of bungee rear shelf or seat or hook to
> seat belt at oshkosh
> i saw a seat belt used as a tie down in conjunction with a
> bungee or rope
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: baggage locker |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Roger, you could try a hinge like this:
http://www.rvproject.com/20031029.html
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
WOrking on centre wing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Geronimo423@aol.com
>
> Okay.. I didn't seem to see anything in the archives about eliminating the
> hinge for the wing locker door/cover altogether.... has anyone entertained the
> idea of eliminating the hinge and the resulting ugly gap with a tongue in
> groove arrangement on the forward edge of the cover? The whole cover could then
be
> removed and placed on the ground, allowing for full access to the compartment
> without reaching around the cover.... ?? Would this not put a tight seal as a
> butt-joint on the forward edge, reducing leak problems??? Anyone have any
> thoughts/comments/experience with this set up?
>
> Roger Parnow
Message 12
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| Subject: | 912 hard start when hot |
|July 24, 2002) at05/10/2004 10:40:59 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
I'm not that familiar with the 912, but something to keep in mind is that a
manifold or carb base can warp when hot and cause an air leak when the
engine reaches temperature. That will lean the mixture further heating the
engine. An air leak closely emulates fuel starvation, although typically
air leakage will cause rough idling, it will definitely cause hard starts.
Especially if one or two cylinders are affected more than the others. Just
an idea to consider. Vacuum leaks can be one of the hardest problems to
diagnose.
Craig S.
N601XS
>
> If you land and shut down, will not
start at all using any combination of inputs. choke/no choke (enricher).
Throttle /no throttle. cussing/praying. boost pump/no boost. After 30
minute
cool down starts fine.
> If you land and let idle for 10 or so minutes, (I know this is not
good for engine, but has been part of trying to find problem) when you take
off, r.p.m. will drop off around 3500 or 4000 and engine won't make full
power. sometimes will die completely.
> I'm out of ideas and will try anything. Thanks.
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL fuel sender layout |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
On Sun May 09 - 11:39 AM, Joemotis@aol.com wrote regarding: 601 XL fuel
sender layout
<snip> installing the sensor on the top. <snip>
Joe,
After much consideration I installed mine in the end of the tanks (x4). It
is a bit fiddly but can be done. The most significant issue is that you have
to bend the sender arm to get the correct operation. If I was doing it
again, I'd seriously look at Bryan's advice about putting it as close to the
spar as possible, rearranging the mounting bold, and grinding everything
down to an absolute minimum. I don't think that sealing the tanks is an
issue since you'll want to check that everything is airtight after you
install the senders no matter which you choose. A bit of sealube should see
that you have no problems.
I have some drawings and pics of the tank end installation if you want to
contact me off-list.
..neil
601XL/Corvair
Fuselage and stuff
Do not archive
---
Email certified virus free when sent from original author.
Message 14
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Matco wheel
| Subject: | front wheel bearing failure - CH601XL, stock |
Matco wheel
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
Matco called me at 0805 MDT the next business day after getting my email.
We discussed the failure. I think that the most likely cause was
overtightening the bearing. I did back off until the wheel rotated freely.
Apparently, I should have hand tightened the nuts and not used a wrench.
Matco is sending me a new set of bearings at no cost.
And asked that I inspect the bearings and let them know
if I still have the same problem. They want to track the
case to ensure that the cause is known.
Joe
N633Z @ AWO
20 hours
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead |
--> Zenith-List message posted by:
Hi list members.
I spoke to Nick at Sun and Fun about the fairleads on the outside of their 601.
He said that you could do it either way. The idea to install it on the outside
was because it was easyer to do it this way after the fuselage had been closed.
If you can do it on the inside before you close the top skin on the fuselage,
that is also fine. Both work great. But I agree, that it looks better on the
inside.
Thought I would let you know about our conversation.
Best regards,
Johann G
Iceland.
Zenith 701
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
>
> I'm building an HD, but my plans show the nylon on the inside on 6F4, so
> that's where I put it.
>
> Bill
>
> >
> > I think that installing the rudder fairlead (Nylon slotted), where it
> exits the
> > fusalage, on either side, looks shoddy, mounted on the outside.
> >
> > Do you guys think that there will be a problem if the nylon is mounted on
> > the inside of the skin, and just the fluted cover is in the outside -
> > obviously making sure that the cable does NOT touch metal etc...
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 912 hard start when hot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
With the interest in this problem, what have others done to the under cowl
air flow to aid in cooling?
I have the 912 ULS, not anywhere near being installed yet. Looking at the
ROTEX info, there is a Heat Shield/Drip Pan, shown. Under each carb, above the
exhaust flange. See pages 15-1 and 61-2, of the installation instructions.
Wondering if anyone is using this type of shield with success?
Message 17
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| Subject: | 912 hard start when hot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
Were you to examine a Kitana with the certified Rotax 912, much understanding of
how this engine was certified would be obvious.
The version originally certified in this country used a metal intake chamber across
the engine from Bing to Bing, fed by a separate air scoop on the left side.
The Bing overflow tubes are connected into this intake chamber, above the
pans. A separate air filter is placed in the air scoop to filter debris from intake
air.
The fuel lines were metal-to-metal until breakage at the Pierburg fuel-pump forced
in-field mods to allow some flex.
The Kitana has only a SINGLE, right-side, 4" diam. air intake for the cylinders
(!)
The certified engine comes with a ceramic/epoxy air "shield" that forces air down
through the cast fins on each cylinder. For us homebuilt exp. people this
cerarmic shield is kinda pricey @ $1,000. I built my version of it of .016" alum.
for pennies; it works just fine after 470. hours. I feed air into my alum.
down-draft shield from dual intakes on each side of the spinner. You can find
some descriptions of this in the archives, or call me @ (310)545-5951, for a
more complete description/discussion.
I've only seen fuel overflowing the Bings once when I had my Bing overflow drains
connected to a tee in an attempt make a neater drain. DON'T DO THIS! It will
cause wild and random engine rev and idle cycles. I did make it back to the
runway, but I did NOT enjoy learning about this! I've made small alum. tubing
drains to carry fuel out of the engine compartment, but they are separate
drains.
GGP
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Firewall (kit built) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
Not sure, but I think the bolt is longer and thicker.
On Sun, 9 May 2004 19:24:08 -0500 "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
writes:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti"
> <daberti@execpc.com>
>
> How does a longer bolt get stronger?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> wizard-24@juno.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601XL Firewall (kit built)
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
>
>
> > do all engine mounts for all engines for the XL use the same
> engine
> > mount positions?
>
> I think the idea here is that the mounts are designed to fit the
> plane,
> not the other way around. So. I think the mount positions are (or
> should
> be) the same for all the different engines. One thing though....if
> you
> plan to use a heavier engine (*such as the Corvair, and I think the
> Lycoming too) then you will need the longer mounting bolts, which
> ZAC
> will sell you.
>
> Mike Fortunato
> 601XL
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Tricycle vs Taildragger |
|July 24, 2002) at05/10/2004 02:54:34 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
>This will stir up the list I'm sure with all kinds of comments but I'm
debating
>with whether to go taildragger or tricycle gear in my XL.
Not having any tailwheel experience I asked a high time pilot who flies
both. While he prefers flying tailwheel planes he recommended the
tri-cycle. His main issue was x-wind landing. Even with several thousand
hrs flying he will not fly his taildragger if there is a chance of having
to land with strong or gusting x-winds (on a hard surface, grass is much
more forgiving). As much as I like the looks of a taildragger I've decided
to go with a trike.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601 XL wings and tail done, fusilage in progress.
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
message.
Message 20
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| Subject: | 912 hard start when hot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
I've had no problems with my setup. I am using the ULS airbox with the bowl
vents attached to the airbox per rotax instructions. I have the bowl heat
shields installed but no drains attached as there is no way for fuel to drip
on to them. I don't have the air deflector cowling on the engine either.
I have covered all my fuel and oil lines with fire sleeve material too. To
date the highest air temps have been in the upper 80's and I have landed at
an airport long enough to grab a coke and then leave again with no hard
starting problems. One point to make is that the cold start circuit will
not operate correctly if the throttle is too far advanced and unbalanced
carbs can be hard starting just off idle.
An addition to George's post is the Certificated version uses a vapor return
line to the fuel tank.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
With the interest in this problem, what have others done to the under cowl
air flow to aid in cooling?
I have the 912 ULS, not anywhere near being installed yet. Looking at the
ROTEX info, there is a Heat Shield/Drip Pan, shown. Under each carb, above
the
exhaust flange. See pages 15-1 and 61-2, of the installation instructions.
Wondering if anyone is using this type of shield with success?
Message 21
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| Subject: | 601 rear stabilizer spar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Clark" <tclark955@charter.net>
Hey Guys,
I've just bent my stabilizer spars for my 601, the top flange of the rear spar
appears to be shorter than it should be, I've double checked the plans, and the
dim's add up, however the plans do not directly give a dimension for this flange,
only the overall width, the bottom flange and the height of the spar. Has
anyone else come across this problem?
Thanks,
Tommy Clark
601XL
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