Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:01 AM - Re: 601 rear stabilizer spar (Michel Therrien)
2. 07:22 AM - Rudder Cable Fairlead, Battery Panel (RURUNY@aol.com)
3. 08:15 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead, Battery Panel (Keith Ashcraft)
4. 08:19 AM - XL Wing lockers (louiscfi@comcast.net)
5. 08:20 AM - Re: Tricycle vs Taildragger ()
6. 09:30 AM - Re: Tricycle vs Taildragger (Steve Dixon)
7. 10:29 AM - Re: XL Wing lockers (Thilo Kind)
8. 11:14 AM - Coolant Hose Menders (Andrew SanClemente)
9. 12:35 PM - Is Bill Morelli out there (Steve Freeman)
10. 12:36 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (Steve Freeman)
11. 01:10 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
12. 02:02 PM - Re: Re:Second greatest thirill (Larry McFarland)
13. 03:01 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (Steve Freeman)
14. 03:34 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (Dave Alberti)
15. 03:56 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
16. 04:03 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
17. 04:03 PM - Re: nose-wheel bearings (Bob Miller)
18. 07:16 PM - Re: XL Wing lockers (Frank Jones)
19. 07:20 PM - In the left aileron Bob (Joemotis@aol.com)
20. 07:31 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (gary)
21. 07:34 PM - Re: 601 rear stabilizer spar (Tommy Clark)
22. 07:36 PM - Re: Coolant Hose Menders (gary)
23. 10:13 PM - Re: 601 rear stabilizer spar (Kevin W Bonds)
24. 10:18 PM - Re: XL Wing lockers (Greg Ferris)
25. 11:00 PM - Re: In the left aileron Bob (sportpilot)
26. 11:50 PM - CH601XL elevator trim tab connection fix (xl)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 rear stabilizer spar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
The dl specified in the plans are often not good.
Flanges should be 20mm. Since all bending brakes are
not the same, it is better to make "test pieces" and
when satisfied, make the real one.
Michel
--- Tommy Clark <tclark955@charter.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Clark"
> <tclark955@charter.net>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I've just bent my stabilizer spars for my 601, the
> top flange of the rear spar appears to be shorter
> than it should be, I've double checked the plans,
> and the dim's add up, however the plans do not
> directly give a dimension for this flange, only the
> overall width, the bottom flange and the height of
> the spar. Has anyone else come across this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tommy Clark
> 601XL
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Fairlead, Battery Panel |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
I'm building a 701 and they(the plans) are putting the fairlead on the outside
now also. On their demo they have it on the inside.
While I was building the rear fuselage I skipped to the controls manual which had
this installation in it, because I figured it would be easier to do before
riveting up the rear fuselage. I decided to put it on the outside as it would
be easier to replace if necessary. I just have the fairing and fairlead clecoed
on until I do the rigging of the cables. The Zenith 701 demo has a battery panel
in the area of of these fairleads and would be easier to access once the
fuselage is riveted up, I did not put the panel in so I would have to crawl down
the fuselage over the stiffeners I put in to prevent oilcanning to replace
these (ouch).
One other consideration was that its ugly as hell but figured since I'm building
a 701 what difference would it make. If I was building a 601 I'd put them on
the inside for the sleeker appearance and have a way to get to it for repairs.
Brian Unruh
701
Long Island
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairlead, Battery Panel |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft@itt.com>
Brian,
I have the 4th Edition 2/2002 prints for SN 4765 and my drawings (page
7C5) shows that the fairlead is inside. It shows the sandwich of
7C5-2 -- side skin -- 7C5-3
inside - -- outside
Keith
CH701 tail 98% done
All tooling blocks done!
N 38.9947
W105.1305
Alt. 9,100'
*************************************************************
RURUNY@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
>
>I'm building a 701 and they(the plans) are putting the fairlead on the outside
now also. On their demo they have it on the inside.
>While I was building the rear fuselage I skipped to the controls manual which
had this installation in it, because I figured it would be easier to do before
riveting up the rear fuselage. I decided to put it on the outside as it would
be easier to replace if necessary. I just have the fairing and fairlead clecoed
on until I do the rigging of the cables. The Zenith 701 demo has a battery
panel in the area of of these fairleads and would be easier to access once the
fuselage is riveted up, I did not put the panel in so I would have to crawl down
the fuselage over the stiffeners I put in to prevent oilcanning to replace
these (ouch).
>One other consideration was that its ugly as hell but figured since I'm building
a 701 what difference would it make. If I was building a 601 I'd put them on
the inside for the sleeker appearance and have a way to get to it for repairs.
>
>Brian Unruh
>701
>Long Island
>
>
>
************************************
This email and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this email
in error please notify the sender. Please note that any views or opinions presented
in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent
those of ITT Industries, Inc.
The recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses.
ITT Industries accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus
transmitted by this
email.
************************************
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: louiscfi@comcast.net
My partner and I are debating about whether to install wing lockers on our kit
xl. I have heard the door lifts up in flight, doesnt seal properly, and adds
drag. What have you done to control these things? I like the hidden hinge that
was posted yesterday. I would really like the added flexiblity these lockers
provide, but I am mainly concerned that they disrupt the looks of the wing.
All respectable comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
--
Louis
ATR-42 &-72 First Officer,
CFII SMEL
Keep the greasy side down.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tricycle vs Taildragger |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 11 May 2004 10:16:46 -0500
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <PAULROD36@msn.com>
It's very important that you go with taildragger if you like taildraggers. It's
equally important that you go with tri-gear if you like tri-gear. Having done
a lot of training in a Luscombe ("them widow makers'll groundloop ya in a New
York second, boy") and in tri-gear, I've found that one is NOT harder than the
other, it's only different. I DID find, however, that taildraggers generally
hold up better on rough fields, and tri-gear gives a better view when taxiing.
Each has its good and not-so-good aspects, but both work just fine. The one
you prefer is the one you simply must have.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Darlene<mailto:dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2004 10:03 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Tricycle vs Taildragger
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net<mailto:dnimigon@telusplanet.net>>
This will stir up the list I'm sure with all kinds of comments but I'm debating
with whether to go taildragger or tricycle gear in my XL. I'm still along
way to that stage but would like anyone's comments on this. My thoughts are as
follows.
(1) I really like the look of the tail dragger ( have liked this look since I
was a kid ).
(2) Less weight I presume with the taildragger
(3) Tricycle gear has better stability on the ground (taxiing).
(4) Tricycle gear is probably better ( more stable ) when taking off or landing
Does it really matter which way I go or is one way better than the other. I
know I'll need taildragger training but that's not an issue. I've talked to flyers
who say definitely go taildragger, I've also talked to some who say stay
with the tricycle. Are these people just scared of the taildragger or want a
more stable plane to taxi around. I sure would like thoughts on this. I don't
want this to be a place of argument between what people think is right. I just
want some opinions.
Dave
601Xl
Most form blocks made
Still collecting items etc.
1% done
99% to go
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tricycle vs Taildragger |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Dixon" <dix39@charter.net>
FWIW, I think this is some great advice. I learned in a C 150, got a
tailwheel endorsement in a T-Craft, and have spent a few hours in a Champ.
Although there are more issues that can, and have, been brought up, I would
agree with everything in this post. Most importantly, you should get the
one YOU prefer.
Steve Dixon
701---someday
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: <PAULROD36@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Tricycle vs Taildragger
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <PAULROD36@msn.com>
>
> It's very important that you go with taildragger if you like taildraggers.
It's equally important that you go with tri-gear if you like tri-gear.
Having done a lot of training in a Luscombe ("them widow makers'll
groundloop ya in a New York second, boy") and in tri-gear, I've found that
one is NOT harder than the other, it's only different. I DID find, however,
that taildraggers generally hold up better on rough fields, and tri-gear
gives a better view when taxiing. Each has its good and not-so-good aspects,
but both work just fine. The one you prefer is the one you simply must have.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave & Darlene<mailto:dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2004 10:03 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Tricycle vs Taildragger
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene"
<dnimigon@telusplanet.net<mailto:dnimigon@telusplanet.net>>
>
> This will stir up the list I'm sure with all kinds of comments but I'm
debating with whether to go taildragger or tricycle gear in my XL. I'm
still along way to that stage but would like anyone's comments on this. My
thoughts are as follows.
> (1) I really like the look of the tail dragger ( have liked this look
since I was a kid ).
> (2) Less weight I presume with the taildragger
> (3) Tricycle gear has better stability on the ground (taxiing).
> (4) Tricycle gear is probably better ( more stable ) when taking off or
landing
> Does it really matter which way I go or is one way better than the
other. I know I'll need taildragger training but that's not an issue. I've
talked to flyers who say definitely go taildragger, I've also talked to
some who say stay with the tricycle. Are these people just scared of the
taildragger or want a more stable plane to taxi around. I sure would like
thoughts on this. I don't want this to be a place of argument between what
people think is right. I just want some opinions.
> Dave
> 601Xl
> Most form blocks made
> Still collecting items etc.
> 1% done
> 99% to go
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: XL Wing lockers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
I wouldn't do it again. There is enough space on the baggage shelf. The
locker doors in the wing lift in flight despite lots of Dzus fasteners and
L-angle reinforcement underneath the doors...
Thilo Kind
----- Original Message -----
From: <louiscfi@comcast.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: XL Wing lockers
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: louiscfi@comcast.net
>
> My partner and I are debating about whether to install wing lockers on our
kit xl. I have heard the door lifts up in flight, doesnt seal properly, and
adds drag. What have you done to control these things? I like the hidden
hinge that was posted yesterday. I would really like the added flexiblity
these lockers provide, but I am mainly concerned that they disrupt the looks
of the wing. All respectable comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Louis
> ATR-42 &-72 First Officer,
> CFII SMEL
> Keep the greasy side down.
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Andrew SanClemente <ansancle@townisp.com>
Hi,
I received one straight galvanized Hose mender in my Stratus FWF
kit.
I require a 90 degree mender for the way I'm routing my hose and
cannot find any Auto-Parts stores or places on the Internet that
sells the same quality as received in the kit (Galvanized heavy
duty). All I can find is plastic barbed menders at my local Ace
Hardware. Is the plastic sufficient for the cooling system and does
anyone know where I can order 1" and 1 1/4" galvanized 90 degree
menders?
Thanks
Andrew
601 HDS Stratus Subaru
Hi,
I received one straight galvanized Hose mender in my Stratus FWF kit.
I require a 90 degree mender for the way I'm routing my hose and cannot find any
Auto-Parts stores or places on the Internet that sells the same quality as
received in the kit (Galvanized heavy duty). All I can find is plastic barbed
menders at my local Ace Hardware. Is the plastic sufficient for the cooling system
and does anyone know where I can order 1 and 1 1/4 galvanized 90 degree
menders?
Thanks
Andrew
601 HDS Stratus Subaru
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Is Bill Morelli out there |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
Hi List,
I'm trying to get in touch with Bill Morelli from the list but I haven't seen him
post in a while.
Bill, if you are out there can you e-mail me off list. I have a question for you
on your heater core plumbing that I am pretty sure you can help me out with.
Thanks
Steve Freeman
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
I am having a smilar issue in that I need to route out of my coolant hoses
to a heater core. The heater core requires 5/8" hose and the rad hoses and
thermostat hoses are large. I am trying to find a T that will step down the
hose sizes to what I need. Anyone have any suggestions?
I am thinking I might have to have them made :(
Thanks,
Steve Freeman
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Not sure why you want a "T" Steve?...Is this on a Stratus motor?
Are you trying to use a heater cores as radiators? Or trying to install a
heater core for cabin heat?
If it's a heater core it goes in the "bypass" hose which is 5/8ths on one
end and 3/4" on the other I think. I used a step down connector rather than
use the Stratus botch of crushing down a 3/4" hose onto a 5/8ths connection
for this.
If you need the large step down connectors I would try J C Whitney or Summit
racing...Both are on the web.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Freeman
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
I am having a smilar issue in that I need to route out of my coolant hoses
to a heater core. The heater core requires 5/8" hose and the rad hoses and
thermostat hoses are large. I am trying to find a T that will step down the
hose sizes to what I need. Anyone have any suggestions?
I am thinking I might have to have them made :(
Thanks,
Steve Freeman
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Second greatest thirill |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re:Second greatest thirill
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>
> Hi listers,
> I can't brag about a first flight for a few months yet, but I did start my
> Jab 3300 today for the first time in 4 years It idled great and sounds
wonderful.
Smoothe as silk. I can't get over the joy of hearing it run. Man what a
blast!
Thanks so much for the help and
> encouragement from this group.
>
> Ron DeWees
> Zen 601 HDS TD/ Jab 3300
Ron,
Yes, you can brag on this moment. It's a real rush! That 3300 is a sweet
machine.
Looking forward to hearing you've flown.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS @ www.macsmachine.com
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
< Or trying to install a heater core for cabin heat?>>
This is exactly what I am trying to do. I have tried calling Stratus and I
cannot not get any advice from them on how to plumb a heater core into the
system so I was looking to the list for help. The inlet and outlet on my my
heater valve are 5/8"
My plan is to plumb from the thermostat line (I believe this is 3/4") into
my heater core valve (5/8"), then out from the valve into the heater core,
out of the heater core and back into WHERE??? This is the answer I have not
been able to get short of into the large radiator hose (1" or 1 1/4). If
this is the case I have not been able to figure out how to step up or step
down for this purpose, or if my plan is incorrect from the start.
Frank, if you can help me out and contact me off list, or make it available
for public viewing it would be hugely beneficial to me.
thanks,
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Not sure why you want a "T" Steve?...Is this on a Stratus motor?
>
> Are you trying to use a heater cores as radiators? Or trying to install a
> heater core for cabin heat?
>
> If it's a heater core it goes in the "bypass" hose which is 5/8ths on one
> end and 3/4" on the other I think. I used a step down connector rather
than
> use the Stratus botch of crushing down a 3/4" hose onto a 5/8ths
connection
> for this.
>
> If you need the large step down connectors I would try J C Whitney or
Summit
> racing...Both are on the web.
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Freeman
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
>
> I am having a smilar issue in that I need to route out of my coolant hoses
> to a heater core. The heater core requires 5/8" hose and the rad hoses
and
> thermostat hoses are large. I am trying to find a T that will step down
the
> hose sizes to what I need. Anyone have any suggestions?
>
> I am thinking I might have to have them made :(
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Freeman
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
Steve, you actually should use a "Y" type fitting. A "T" can create a lot
of turbulence in the flow. You can make them using copper pipe.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve
Freeman
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
I am having a smilar issue in that I need to route out of my coolant hoses
to a heater core. The heater core requires 5/8" hose and the rad hoses and
thermostat hoses are large. I am trying to find a T that will step down the
hose sizes to what I need. Anyone have any suggestions?
I am thinking I might have to have them made :(
Thanks,
Steve Freeman
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Easy!....:)...Stratus doesn't have a clue?...I am surprised!
Firstly you don't need the valve, in fact it helps if you do not have a
valve!
Find the 3/4" hose that goes from the water pump and into the what I belive
is the thermostat housing.
Cut the hose in half....You now have the two cut ends which essentially get
plugged into the heater core. Now it is important that you do NOT have a
valve...This hose really needs to flow water at all times...If you put a
valve on your core you will dead head the pump which although in theory is
OK no one ever does it. At the very least you will get air locking and
probably increased pump impeller erosion.
Anyway, I used 4 computer fans on the back of the core so the fans simply
recirculate cabin air thru the core. The best place to put the assembly is
above the passenger feet...That way if it leaks, you don't care too
much...:)..The hose runs work well on the right side of the engine in any
case.
Now the 3/4" hose is really at botch, one fitting is a 3/4" but the other is
a 5/8ths...I bought a reducer to step down to the proper size at my local
autoparts store...They had a book showing all the parts and they ordered it
for me for about $1..
I use two fans for low heat and all 4 fans for high heat. I guarantee you
will not notice any heat coming from the core on the hottest days due to the
fact that water is circultaing thru the core all the time.
Fresh air comes from two NACA vents.
Very simple and works a treat.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Freeman
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
< Or trying to install a heater core for cabin heat?>>
This is exactly what I am trying to do. I have tried calling Stratus and I
cannot not get any advice from them on how to plumb a heater core into the
system so I was looking to the list for help. The inlet and outlet on my my
heater valve are 5/8"
My plan is to plumb from the thermostat line (I believe this is 3/4") into
my heater core valve (5/8"), then out from the valve into the heater core,
out of the heater core and back into WHERE??? This is the answer I have not
been able to get short of into the large radiator hose (1" or 1 1/4). If
this is the case I have not been able to figure out how to step up or step
down for this purpose, or if my plan is incorrect from the start.
Frank, if you can help me out and contact me off list, or make it available
for public viewing it would be hugely beneficial to me.
thanks,
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Not sure why you want a "T" Steve?...Is this on a Stratus motor?
>
> Are you trying to use a heater cores as radiators? Or trying to
> install a heater core for cabin heat?
>
> If it's a heater core it goes in the "bypass" hose which is 5/8ths on
> one end and 3/4" on the other I think. I used a step down connector
> rather
than
> use the Stratus botch of crushing down a 3/4" hose onto a 5/8ths
connection
> for this.
>
> If you need the large step down connectors I would try J C Whitney or
Summit
> racing...Both are on the web.
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
> Freeman
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
>
> I am having a smilar issue in that I need to route out of my coolant
> hoses to a heater core. The heater core requires 5/8" hose and the
> rad hoses
and
> thermostat hoses are large. I am trying to find a T that will step
> down
the
> hose sizes to what I need. Anyone have any suggestions?
>
> I am thinking I might have to have them made :(
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Freeman
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
No, no, no...You do not need any Y or T fittings...Just a simple reducer
from 3/4" to 5/8ths.
Do not need to cut the heater core into the large radiator hose.
Keep it simple that's what the small hose is for.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Alberti
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
Steve, you actually should use a "Y" type fitting. A "T" can create a lot
of turbulence in the flow. You can make them using copper pipe.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Freeman
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Coolant Hose Menders
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
I am having a smilar issue in that I need to route out of my coolant hoses
to a heater core. The heater core requires 5/8" hose and the rad hoses and
thermostat hoses are large. I am trying to find a T that will step down the
hose sizes to what I need. Anyone have any suggestions?
I am thinking I might have to have them made :(
Thanks,
Steve Freeman
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: nose-wheel bearings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
The nosewheel bearing posts are a bit scarey, aren't they. Anybody got tips on
how I could determine whether my nosewheel bearings might need to be replaced
before the initial flight this summer (I hope!)? My project was initially purchased
in 1993.
Bob
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
Louis,
I'm happy that I added the wing lockers. My hinge is bent aluminum
kindof like for the ailerons, but I do have a real hinge underneath it.
I think you could go with just the aluminum if you minimize the
frequency and amount of deflection of the hinge. My doors lift a bit in
flight - a couple mm gap. Since I've always had the lockers I wouldn't
know if it affects flight at all. The plane flies very will with them.
The main reason I like having the lockers is: a) the extra storage
space, b) storage that is much further forward (closer to the C of G)
than the read area, c) a good place to store those items I like to
always have on board (a quart of oil, survival gear etc.), d) I can fit
a full sized empty 5 gal gas can which makes acquiring mogas more
convenient at some destinations.
Further to point b) without the wing lockers I wouldn't be able to get
to full gross in some situations when carrying a lot of baggage.
Frank Jones
C-GYXQ
>My partner and I are debating about whether to install wing lockers on
our >kit xl. I have heard the door lifts up in flight, doesnt seal
properly, >and adds drag. What have you done to control these things?
I like the >hidden hinge that was posted yesterday. I would really like
the added >flexiblity these lockers provide, but I am mainly concerned
that they >disrupt the looks of the wing. All respectable comments are
appreciated. >Thanks in advance.
>
>--
>Louis
>ATR-42 &-72 First Officer,
>CFII SMEL
>Keep the greasy side down.
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | In the left aileron Bob |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Measure twice, cut once. I toyed with the idea of two aileron trim tabs but
sent ZAC the check for redemption. The worst part is I had a note in my log
that said to cut the right aileron.
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com>
> I require a 90 degree mender for the way I'm routing my hose and
> cannot find any Auto-Parts stores or places on the Internet that
> sells the same quality as received in the kit (Galvanized heavy
> duty). All I can find is plastic barbed menders at my local Ace
> Hardware. Is the plastic sufficient for the cooling system and does
> anyone know where I can order 1" and 1 1/4" galvanized 90 degree
> menders?
I don't think the hardware store plastic is good enough, if it's PVC I don't
think it's made for high temp. NAPA has various size straight and T heater
hose couplers that are pretty beefy and made for the high temps. For the 1
1/4", get some aluminum tubing and have beads welded around the ends and
cut/weld the angle.
Gary
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 rear stabilizer spar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Clark" <tclark955@charter.net>
Thanks Michel,
I figured there would be correct dim's on the drawings. Have you come
across this much?
Tommy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 rear stabilizer spar
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> The dl specified in the plans are often not good.
> Flanges should be 20mm. Since all bending brakes are
> not the same, it is better to make "test pieces" and
> when satisfied, make the real one.
>
> Michel
>
> --- Tommy Clark <tclark955@charter.net> wrote:
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Clark"
> > <tclark955@charter.net>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > I've just bent my stabilizer spars for my 601, the
> > top flange of the rear spar appears to be shorter
> > than it should be, I've double checked the plans,
> > and the dim's add up, however the plans do not
> > directly give a dimension for this flange, only the
> > overall width, the bottom flange and the height of
> > the spar. Has anyone else come across this problem?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tommy Clark
> > 601XL
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Coolant Hose Menders |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com>
> Not sure why you want a "T" Steve?...Is this on a Stratus motor?
two T's are good to switch between bypass loop and heater core for
summer/winter. it would be nice to keep it simpler and somehow vent the hot
air outside in the summer, i don't think it contributes much to cooling but
may help.
gary
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 rear stabilizer spar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
Tommy
Micheal is referring to the dl dimension. Which is the length of the unbent
part. This dimension is the result of the setback of the bend as determined
by the radius and the thickness of the material. Basically it works out so
that you need to subtract about 2mm per 90 degree bend, of the lighter guage
stuff, from the length of the sides added together. The larger the radius
the more material the bend adds (sort of) to the unbent part. ZAC for some
reason does not always show the correct dl.
For instance take parts 6T1-3 and 6T1-4. If you add together all the sides
of 6T1-4 and subtract 2mm per bend you get 112mm just what ZAC shows (This
is correct and should give you a part with the correct dimensions after
bending).
But for 6T1-3 if you add all the sides and subtract 2mm per bend you get
116mm, The drawings say 120mm. You will notice that 120mm is the sum of all
sides before subtracting for setback and material thickness. If you cut the
part 120mm and bend it it will be slightly larger than the dimensions on the
drawings show it should be.
This is kind of hard to explain clearly if you want to learn more "Sport
Plane Construction Techniques" by Tony Bingelis has a good explanation on
this.
BTW this is why a lot of people just bend the parts and trim afterwards. As
I am just getting started scratch building I am finding this to ge a good
solution. It's just to damn coplected to do it the other way sometimes. But
good to understand how it works anyway, and sometimes it can't be avoided.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville Tn
Zenithair Zodiac 601XL plansbuilder; rudder complete;
almost done with forming blocks;
making parts for elevator
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Clark" <tclark955@charter.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 rear stabilizer spar
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Clark" <tclark955@charter.net>
>
> Thanks Michel,
>
> I figured there would be correct dim's on the drawings. Have you come
> across this much?
>
> Tommy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 rear stabilizer spar
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> >
> > The dl specified in the plans are often not good.
> > Flanges should be 20mm. Since all bending brakes are
> > not the same, it is better to make "test pieces" and
> > when satisfied, make the real one.
> >
> > Michel
> >
> > --- Tommy Clark <tclark955@charter.net> wrote:
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Clark"
> > > <tclark955@charter.net>
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > I've just bent my stabilizer spars for my 601, the
> > > top flange of the rear spar appears to be shorter
> > > than it should be, I've double checked the plans,
> > > and the dim's add up, however the plans do not
> > > directly give a dimension for this flange, only the
> > > overall width, the bottom flange and the height of
> > > the spar. Has anyone else come across this problem?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Tommy Clark
> > > 601XL
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Contributions
> > > any other
> > > Forums.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > ----------------------------
> > Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> > http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> > http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> > http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
> >
> >
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: XL Wing lockers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Greg Ferris" <ferret@wmtel.net>
I have the wing lockers and I'm glad I put them in. I too considered
leaving them out, however I have found the storage space to be vital for
when I have camped. I also put the fishing poles into the lightening holes
of the wings from inside the lockers. The baggage shelf fills-up quickly
and it's a long reach to get to the back of it.
Despite making the doors stiffer, mine still lift slightly between the DZUS.
It may cost 1/4 mph, but a trip is a lot less fun without your "stuff" as
George Carlin once put it. (your stuff is "your stuff"...other people's
stuff is s#$% if anyone remembers that bit).
Greg Ferris
601HD, 912UL
----- Original Message -----
From: <louiscfi@comcast.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: XL Wing lockers
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: louiscfi@comcast.net
>
> My partner and I are debating about whether to install wing lockers on our
kit xl. I have heard the door lifts up in flight, doesnt seal properly, and
adds drag. What have you done to control these things? I like the hidden
hinge that was posted yesterday. I would really like the added flexiblity
these lockers provide, but I am mainly concerned that they disrupt the looks
of the wing. All respectable comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Louis
> ATR-42 &-72 First Officer,
> CFII SMEL
> Keep the greasy side down.
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: In the left aileron Bob |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
I just closed up the box on the tail kit I ordered with the air
powered gun I ordered from Zenith and changed
to a RV9a instead, so I will be selling the tail kit and rivet gun
if anyone wants to start on a 601XL Tail kit
no cut or marks have been done to any part ,all the rivets , plans
are in the box..
thanks..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Joemotis@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: In the left aileron Bob
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
>
> Measure twice, cut once. I toyed with the idea of two aileron trim tabs
but
> sent ZAC the check for redemption. The worst part is I had a note in my
log
> that said to cut the right aileron.
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CH601XL elevator trim tab connection fix |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
It's me again!
I finally fixed my elevator trim tab.
My EAA tech advisor didn't like the connection
but said 'if 200+ planes are flying, I won't say change it'.
So because I wanted to fly I left it as is.
But, the trim tab was getting wobbly.
And a long time mechanic at AWO, who took a closer look at
my plane, said 'your elevator trim tab is bad - I wouldn't
fly with it. You don't want to hurt yourself. I've seen a
P-51 tail come off because of flutter'. If the trim tab
connector comes off then the trim tab will probably flutter
- with unpredictable results.
The problem is that the trim tab to actuator rod connector
is attached with 2 AN5 rivets that are loaded in tension.
And the trim tab is thin. The rivets were working the holes
bigger and eventually would have pulled through.
The fix: I bolted on the trim tab connector - using 2
structural grade bolts donated by the mechanic and a doubler
inside. He didn't want to see a failure. I drilled out the
trim tab to make installation easy. The mechanic would
have used a hemostat....
Joe
N633Z @ AWO
20 hours
P.S. After replacing my nose gear bearings and fixing the
trim tabs I went around the pattern 3 times before
heading home. Woooowieeeeeeeeeee!
P.P.S. It's a homebuilt and it's my responsibility to
make sure that it's airworthy. As they say 'It's my ass'.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|