Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:44 AM - 601HDS complete kit For Sale (Jake Reyna)
2. 02:52 PM - Re: Stratus Radiator (Dave Alberti)
3. 03:26 PM - Final Dimensions of 701 (KEITH B SHOAPS)
4. 04:05 PM - Flycovair's 601XL site updated... (W.R. \)
5. 09:04 PM - Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Leo Gates)
6. 10:07 PM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Leo Gates)
7. 10:16 PM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 601HDS complete kit For Sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jake Reyna" <jake@lockhart-tx.com>
We had the best intentions when we purchased this kit from the original
owner in May 2002, it was originally delivered in May 2000 to a builder in
Tucson, AZ. Since then we purchased the leading edge wing tanks and the
forward hinging canopy. It is a complete kit, including lights, wheel
fairings, new drawings and two air riveters. Basically, everything you can
order for a 601HDS.
My wife will be doing a remote tour, hopefully Korea, with the Air Force at
the end of this year and since we haven't started the project, I've decided
to wait until she returns in 2006 to build an airplane. This kit has been
sitting long enough and keeping it in pieces another couple of years doesn't
sound right to me. So, here's the chance to buy a complete 601HDS for the
unbelievable low price of $12,500. I'd consider aiding in the delivery if
it's within 4 hours of Austin, Texas.
Call if you have any questions.
Jake
512-293-0141 cell
jake@lockhart-tx.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Stratus Radiator |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
I plugged the forward hole but on the aft hole I installed a short piece of
hose and a standard radiator petcock valve. Because this is the high side
of the radiator, when your filling the system open the valve until air is
the purged. I also drilled a small hole in the valve handle to fit a safety
wire to keep it secure.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Andrew SanClemente <ansancle@townisp.com>
Whats the best method for plugging the two holes in the stratus
radiator? (one hole at the rear and another at the front). Is threading a
bolt into the holes sufficient?
Thanks
Andrew
Message 3
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| Subject: | Final Dimensions of 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "KEITH B SHOAPS" <kshoaps@verizon.net>
Group--
I am planning to build a garage to keep a 701 on floats (probably Czech floats)
in during part of the long winters here in Northern Maine.
I need to know the final dimensions with the amphibious floats with the wheels
down and wings folded.
I can get the dimensions of the plane on the regular wheels but it looks like the
floats extend beyond the spinner and increase the length somewhat. In addition,
the floats appear to make the rudder higher and the gear wider than the wheels
version.
Can anyone help? I'd hate to build the garage a foot too short and too low!
Thanks,
Keith
Wife 90% convinced, 150% to go.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Flycovair's 601XL site updated... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "W.R. \"Gig\" Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
Anybody who doesn't think the nose of that plane is WAY better looking than
stock is just nuts.
http://flycorvair.com/601.html
There's the link please note this quote from the page:
"Straight and level, the plane did 130mph at 23" MAP and 2700rpm. This is a
low cruise power setting. Keep in mind, the plane has 6x6 tires, no gear leg
fairings, no wheel pants, etc."
Message 5
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| Subject: | Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
I have decided to add a pressure switch for my Hobbs meter on my Rotax
912 UL. Anyone been there, done that? ACS sells two switches, one
"closes at 4PSI." I assume for oil pressure. The other is "water
compatible for Rotax engines." If I used the water compatible one and
teed into coolant line, I assume it would not close until the water
pressure rose. This could be several minutes I think. I have no idea
where to install an oil pressure switch.
Suggestions appreciated.
Leo Gates
N601Z, 99% complete - 18% to go.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
Second thoughts on my message below. I am using a relay, normally
closed connection, to turn on a flashing red LED as an alternator
warning light. It flashes until the alternator warning light output
from the voltage regulator turns it off. Two engine test runs has
worked as desired - master switch on it flashes until the engine is
running, then goes off. I intend to connect the Hobbs meter to the
normally open connection on this relay. Then when the alternator is
working the Hobbs will start to run.
Comments on this solution vs pressure switch appreciated.
Leo Gates wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
>I have decided to add a pressure switch for my Hobbs meter on my Rotax
>912 UL. Anyone been there, done that? ACS sells two switches, one
>"closes at 4PSI." I assume for oil pressure. The other is "water
>compatible for Rotax engines." If I used the water compatible one and
>teed into coolant line, I assume it would not close until the water
>pressure rose. This could be several minutes I think. I have no idea
>where to install an oil pressure switch.
>
>Suggestions appreciated.
>
>Leo Gates
>N601Z, 99% complete - 18% to go.
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
If you have an oil pressure warning light sender installed, B & C specialty products
sells a double pole pressure switch (S8012 - Pressure Switch). The normally
closed side would be used for the warning light and the normally open side
would be used for the Hobbs. You would replace the current single pole switch
with the double pole switch (If your switch uses 1/8" pipe thread).
If you have a oil pressure guage sender only, you may have to tee a pressure switch
into the same port as the pressure sender. If you do, make sure you keep
the fittings as short as possible and use aircraft grade fittings so vibration
won't cause them to fail. I used a weatherhead brass street tee from ACS (3750X2).
I screwed the tee into the block and screwed the two senders into the tee,
giving a very short and solid connection. You may be able to find an additional
port on your engine for getting to oil pressure, then you wont need the tee.
Find the oil pressure sender on your engine adn see if there is a pipe plug
screwed into the engine nearby, that might lead into the oil passege in the
engine.
I don't know how a water pressure switch would work. It seems the pressure would
come up slowly and stay up after shut down until the engine cooled down.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Panel and engine installed.
Nearly done.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
> I have decided to add a pressure switch for my Hobbs meter on my Rotax
> 912 UL. Anyone been there, done that? ACS sells two switches, one
> "closes at 4PSI." I assume for oil pressure. The other is "water
> compatible for Rotax engines." If I used the water compatible one and
> teed into coolant line, I assume it would not close until the water
> pressure rose. This could be several minutes I think. I have no idea
> where to install an oil pressure switch.
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> Leo Gates
> N601Z, 99% complete - 18% to go.
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