Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:05 AM - Re: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701? (Dirk Slabbert)
2. 06:21 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Cleone Markwell)
3. 06:56 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Larry Martin)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Larry Martin)
5. 09:30 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
6. 10:55 AM - [ David Barth ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
7. 01:10 PM - Trim Indicator (Thilo Kind)
8. 02:41 PM - DG problem (Ron DeWees)
9. 04:43 PM - Re: Trim Indicator (Steve Freeman)
10. 07:15 PM - Hour Meter (Dave & Darlene)
11. 07:28 PM - Zinc chromate primer (Joemotis@aol.com)
12. 07:34 PM - wing strut fittings (Ron Lee)
13. 07:46 PM - Re: Zinc chromate primer (Cdngoose)
14. 08:08 PM - Re: Zinc chromate primer (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dirk Slabbert" <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
Had a look at that too, but for some reason or another I'm not so happy with a
belt redrive and radiators.
Have you ever thought about the R1100 RS BMW engine?
100 HP continious, feul injected, easy on petrol, very reliable etc?
This installation should be lighter or the same weight as the 912, and a bit cheaper
too, also comes with a geared redrive.
Dirk.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Roberts
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 6:33 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Roberts <n601gr@yahoo.com>
From all I can pull from the digest, this combo will work for a 701: Suzuki
1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve engine with redrive from Cleo or Raven and engine mount from
Raven. Fraction of the price of a 912. Is anybody flying this setup?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net>
Dear Leo,
Please be advised that these pressure switches have American type
pipe threads and your engine has metric pipe threads. I bought one and
found I could not find any conversion from one type to the other and was
tempted to force them together, but decided against it. Later read here
about one breaking off with disastrous results. Cleone
At 11:00 PM 5/14/04, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
>I have decided to add a pressure switch for my Hobbs meter on my Rotax
>912 UL. Anyone been there, done that? ACS sells two switches, one
>"closes at 4PSI." I assume for oil pressure. The other is "water
>compatible for Rotax engines." If I used the water compatible one and
>teed into coolant line, I assume it would not close until the water
>pressure rose. This could be several minutes I think. I have no idea
>where to install an oil pressure switch.
>
>Suggestions appreciated.
>
>Leo Gates
>N601Z, 99% complete - 18% to go.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Concerning engine vibration causing oil pressure switch failure. The best solution
I found was to use a 12" grease whip (the hose on a grease gun) and locate
the switch on the firewall or anywhere off the engine. The whip is male 1/4"
NPTF on both ends.
I've never use a pressure switch with a hour meter. Just wire it into the ignition
switch, start engine, it runs. I guess this is something I'm not aware of,
why would you want to run it from a pressure switch? I guess to answer my own
question, it would give you exact time engine was running. Is a few seconds
here and there that important? Someone straighten me out. Politely please,
I may have been doing it wrong all these years.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
If you have an oil pressure warning light sender installed, B & C specialty products
sells a double pole pressure switch (S8012 - Pressure Switch). The normally
closed side would be used for the warning light and the normally open side
would be used for the Hobbs. You would replace the current single pole switch
with the double pole switch (If your switch uses 1/8" pipe thread).
If you have a oil pressure gauge sender only, you may have to tee a pressure
switch into the same port as the pressure sender. If you do, make sure you keep
the fittings as short as possible and use aircraft grade fittings so vibration
won't cause them to fail. I used a weatherhead brass street tee from ACS (3750X2).
I screwed the tee into the block and screwed the two senders into the
tee, giving a very short and solid connection. You may be able to find an additional
port on your engine for getting to oil pressure, then you wont need the
tee. Find the oil pressure sender on your engine adn see if there is a pipe plug
screwed into the engine nearby, that might lead into the oil passege in the
engine.
I don't know how a water pressure switch would work. It seems the pressure would
come up slowly and stay up after shut down until the engine cooled down.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Panel and engine installed.
Nearly done.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
> I have decided to add a pressure switch for my Hobbs meter on my Rotax
> 912 UL. Anyone been there, done that? ACS sells two switches, one
> "closes at 4PSI." I assume for oil pressure. The other is "water
> compatible for Rotax engines." If I used the water compatible one and
> teed into coolant line, I assume it would not close until the water
> pressure rose. This could be several minutes I think. I have no idea
> where to install an oil pressure switch.
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> Leo Gates
> N601Z, 99% complete - 18% to go.
---
Version: 6.0.675 / Virus Database: 437 - Release Date: 5/2/2004
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Subarus have NPTF threads. Just did one. Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: Cleone Markwell
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net>
Dear Leo,
Please be advised that these pressure switches have American type
pipe threads and your engine has metric pipe threads. I bought one and
found I could not find any conversion from one type to the other and was
tempted to force them together, but decided against it. Later read here
about one breaking off with disastrous results. Cleone
At 11:00 PM 5/14/04, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
>I have decided to add a pressure switch for my Hobbs meter on my Rotax
>912 UL. Anyone been there, done that? ACS sells two switches, one
>"closes at 4PSI." I assume for oil pressure. The other is "water
>compatible for Rotax engines." If I used the water compatible one and
>teed into coolant line, I assume it would not close until the water
>pressure rose. This could be several minutes I think. I have no idea
>where to install an oil pressure switch.
>
>Suggestions appreciated.
>
>Leo Gates
>N601Z, 99% complete - 18% to go.
>
>
---
Version: 6.0.675 / Virus Database: 437 - Release Date: 5/2/2004
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
On a typical aircraft engine with magneto ignition, all the ignition switch does
is to short the magnetos to ground in the off position. When the switch is on,
it is an open circuit, no power is applied to anything. I believe this applies
to the Rotax as well. In this setup you need another way to run the hourmeter.
The simpleest way is to connect one lead of the meter to power and the other
to a pressure switch. The pressure switch supplies a ground when the engine
is running.
With an electrically driven ignition as found on most auto conversions you could
do it as you described and it would probably be a satisfacory solution. However,
the meter would run anytime the ignition switch is on. Even when you are
testing out circuits on the ground during inspections or troubleshooting. This
could add several hours to the meter over time and, if you don't fly very often,
could become a significant fraction of the total time recorded.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Panel and engine installed.
Nearly done.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> I've never use a pressure switch with a hour meter. Just wire it into the
> ignition switch, start engine, it runs. I guess this is something I'm not aware
> of, why would you want to run it from a pressure switch? I guess to answer my
> own question, it would give you exact time engine was running. Is a few seconds
> here and there that important? Someone straighten me out. Politely please, I
> may have been doing it wrong all these years.
> Larry N1345L
> ----- Original Message -----
Message 6
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| Subject: | [ David Barth ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com>
Subject: rough sketch of wing nose skin bending process
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/davids601xl@yahoo.com.05.15.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
I folks,
today I noticed something strange: I have the MAC trim system including the trim
position indicator, which is a row of LEDs. One of the LEDs is not working anymore.
Everything else is fine. Anybody has seen the same? Is there a cure? It's
not a big thing, but it is somewhat irritating.
Thanks
Thilo Kind
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Hi listers and Zenair drivers -- one thing I noticed last week when I fired
up the Jabiru was that the Sigmatek directional gyro and AI seemed to work
fine and the vacuum gauge read 4.5 pounds. When I shut the motor down the
AI horizon settled down fine but the DG card started to spin like a record
player was connected to it. It took about 30 seconds to settle down and
stop. When I restarted the motor it spun up and stabilized and read the
same heading as with the first start. Am I having a caging problem or
something serious going on with the DG? Could I have the vacuum plumbing
connected wrong?I never fired the DG up before so don't know if it was a
problem before I got it or not. It was used but yellow tagged some years
ago.
Thanks
Ron DeWees
Getting toward the end of building 601HDS TD
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Indicator |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman" <stefree@qwest.net>
Hey Thilo,
I don't know what is wrong, but I have 4 of those that I am not using. You
are welcome to one (no charge) just contact me off line.
Steve Freeman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Trim Indicator
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
>
> I folks,
>
> today I noticed something strange: I have the MAC trim system including
the trim position indicator, which is a row of LEDs. One of the LEDs is not
working anymore. Everything else is fine. Anybody has seen the same? Is
there a cure? It's not a big thing, but it is somewhat irritating.
>
> Thanks
>
> Thilo Kind
>
>
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Just for everyones info and anyone who's looking. I was at Princess Auto today
and they had an Hour Meter on sale. I paid $24.99 CDN. I'm a long way in needing
one but I thought it was a good price in case any of you builders are looking.
I assume these will work the same as a Hobbs meter.
Dave
XL plans only
1% done
99% to go.
looking for deals on anything to do with the XL
dnimigon@telusplanet.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Zinc chromate primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
I called Aircraft Spruce about my back ordered zinc chromate and they
informed me that the company who bought Randolph paints is discontinuing the
manufacture of it. So, I then called Wicks and they had 4 gallons left so I bought
2.
Looks like another wrench has been thrown in the works. Some boatshops still
have spray cans at $8.oo a pop; any suggestions?
Joe Motis
601 XL
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | wing strut fittings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
I am about to drill the wing strut fittings to fuselage. Does anyone have any words
of wisdom for drilling the holes inside the channel. I have the holes drilled
in the steel tabs that fit inside the channel, the problem is then back
drilling through the aluminum portion. There is no room to drill from inside of
the cabin so they must be drilled from inside of the channel. This would take
a very small angle drill head which I do not have. Does anyone have another solution.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Zinc chromate primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
There is a place in Guelph , Ontario that makes Zinc Chromate. IF need
be I will get the name and address next time I'm in that city.
Mark Townsend
601XL EJ 2.2L
Alma, Ontario
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Joemotis@aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Zinc chromate primer
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
I called Aircraft Spruce about my back ordered zinc chromate and they
informed me that the company who bought Randolph paints is discontinuing
the
manufacture of it. So, I then called Wicks and they had 4 gallons left
so I bought 2.
Looks like another wrench has been thrown in the works. Some boatshops
still
have spray cans at $8.oo a pop; any suggestions?
Joe Motis
601 XL
do not archive
==
==
==
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Zinc chromate primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
I found that the local Sherwin-Williams paint store carried zinc chromate in
three colors in the gallon or five gallon size. Other outlets may have it,
especially since its not an aircraft-specific product. Plus, you may save some
money by not paying the "Hazardous Material" shipping fee that Spruce so
gleefully tacks onto everything.
Zed/701/R912/90+%
do not archive
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