Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 AM - Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl (Rick Roberts)
2. 05:48 AM - Re: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl (Benford2@aol.com)
3. 06:17 AM - Re: stabilizer FTT reinforcement rib (Scott Laughlin)
4. 07:03 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Larry Martin)
5. 07:03 AM - Re: Hour Meter (Larry Martin)
6. 09:13 AM - Zinc Cromate paint (Mark Sherman)
7. 11:20 AM - Re: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701? (Jim Fosse)
8. 11:20 AM - Re: Zinc chromate primer (Jim Fosse)
9. 11:33 AM - Re: Alarm System (Traveling Man)
10. 12:13 PM - Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch (Fred Sanford)
11. 01:28 PM - Re: Re: Alarm System (Ray Montagne)
12. 02:19 PM - laser etched labeling (Frank Jones)
13. 02:36 PM - Re: Hour Meter (Dave & Darlene)
14. 03:05 PM - Re: aileron trim anti-servo tab (Dan knezacek)
15. 07:39 PM - Re: aileron trim anti-servo tab (Jeff Small)
16. 07:58 PM - Re: Zinc Chromate ?? (Jim Frisby)
17. 09:11 PM - Re: wing strut fittings (RURUNY@aol.com)
18. 11:27 PM - Hour Meter (Dave & Darlene)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Roberts <n601gr@yahoo.com>
From all I can pull from the digest, this combo will work for a 701:
Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve engine with redrive from Cleo or Raven and
engine mount from Raven. Fraction of the price of a 912. Is anybody
using this setup?
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/17/2004 5:21:21 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
n601gr@yahoo.com writes:
>
> From all I can pull from the digest, this combo will work for a 701:
> Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve engine with redrive from Cleo or Raven and
> engine mount from Raven. Fraction of the price of a 912. Is anybody
> using this setup?
>
Winston Ellis in Idaho is going this route and I think he is close to
buttoning it up.. Look for his contact info on the 701 builders on the web listung
in
the ZAC web site.
Ben Haas, N801BH
Message 3
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| Subject: | stabilizer FTT reinforcement rib |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
"I did make my form and one rib with a small piece left over with .016 but I
feel not comfortable using that."
Hi Danny:
I used .016" aluminum for the "Fit Ribs," (6-T-1-8). After it is all put
together, everything is very sturdy. I used two layers of fiberglass for
the tips, so they were pretty stiff already.
I agree with you about the fiberglass work. It can be frustrating. I just
made some more fiberglass parts (wing tips and rudder saddle) and it was
easier this time. I plan to make some root wing fairings out of fiberglass
that may prove to be interesting.
Happy Building,
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Thanks, I have no experience with non-auto engines. I learn something every day.
As for a auto engines , connect the meter to the Run terminal and you test
all other circuits on the Acc terminal. That way the meter only runs when power
is supplied directly to the ignition. It might cost you a minute once in a
while. I only run four wires off the run terminal, ignition, two hour meters,
and belly strobe. All other circuits come off the power buss which is supplied
by the Acc terminal. The ignition switch is power by the main power switch.
Correct me if I'm wrong, I was once, but there is no requirement for a hour meter
on Experimental aircraft anyway. Since auto engines don't "time out" in hours
as aircraft engines do, it just becomes a piece of equipment for record keeping.
Even though I don't have to, I use two meters, since my engine had miles
on it when I installed it, I best guessed hours by taking the total number
of miles and dividing by an average of 50 miles per hour and then run one meter
up to that figure and started the other one from zero for the overall aircraft.
Of course they both only run when power is supplied to the ignition.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
On a typical aircraft engine with magneto ignition, all the ignition switch does
is to short the magnetos to ground in the off position. When the switch is
on, it is an open circuit, no power is applied to anything. I believe this applies
to the Rotax as well. In this setup you need another way to run the hourmeter.
The simpleest way is to connect one lead of the meter to power and the
other to a pressure switch. The pressure switch supplies a ground when the engine
is running.
With an electrically driven ignition as found on most auto conversions you could
do it as you described and it would probably be a satisfacory solution. However,
the meter would run anytime the ignition switch is on. Even when you are
testing out circuits on the ground during inspections or troubleshooting. This
could add several hours to the meter over time and, if you don't fly very often,
could become a significant fraction of the total time recorded.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Panel and engine installed.
Nearly done.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> I've never use a pressure switch with a hour meter. Just wire it into the
> ignition switch, start engine, it runs. I guess this is something I'm not
aware
> of, why would you want to run it from a pressure switch? I guess to answer
my
> own question, it would give you exact time engine was running. Is a few seconds
> here and there that important? Someone straighten me out. Politely please,
I
> may have been doing it wrong all these years.
> Larry N1345L
> ----- Original Message -----
---
Version: 6.0.675 / Virus Database: 437 - Release Date: 5/2/2004
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
As long as the voltage is correct, it will work. Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Darlene
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 9:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Hour Meter
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Just for everyones info and anyone who's looking. I was at Princess Auto today
and they had an Hour Meter on sale. I paid $24.99 CDN. I'm a long way in needing
one but I thought it was a good price in case any of you builders are looking.
I assume these will work the same as a Hobbs meter.
Dave
XL plans only
1% done
99% to go.
looking for deals on anything to do with the XL
dnimigon@telusplanet.net
---
Version: 6.0.675 / Virus Database: 437 - Release Date: 5/2/2004
Message 6
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| Subject: | Zinc Cromate paint |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
Zinc Chromate primer has not had zinc in it for a
number of years (thanks EPA). So what your are left
with is automotive primer (not real oil or fuel
resistant) or a good mil spec aircraft two part epoxy.
I found that at Aircraft Spruce. For your almost
$110.00, you get a gallon of paint and a gallon of
catalyst (two gallons sprayable). This is some tough
stuff, after it sets up (about one half hour) the only
thing to touch this stuff is aircraft paint stripper.
A 3M pad will scuff it up for finish painting.
I used some automotive epoxy primer in the cabin area
and found that wiping it down with thinner would
remove some of the paint, even after setting up for a
couple of days.
Because there is no zinc in the paint (zinc was the
sacrifice material in the paint so the metal wouldn't
corrode) all you can do is seal the metal so moisture
won't penetrate to the metal.
It is best to Alumiprep and then Alodine aluminum
before priming.
The ACS part # for the paint is 09-24735.
I have used this process on every piece of aluminum on
my 701. It has added about 50 hours to the build, I
think well worth the time and cost. Have any of you
had a 30 year old Cessna and looked on the inside and
seen all the corrosion ? I hope to be still flying
this thing 30 years form now, and in the meantime not
worry about leaving it outside or in the salt air by
the coast. After all this IS a Jeep.
Mark S.
CH-701/912ULS
80% done, just started on
instruments and engine
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Fosse" <jfosse1@shawneelink.net>
It's a long way from home (Poland) but you might want to take a look
at www.bilsamaviation.com-engine. Their Suzuki conversion has a gear
redrive. Question for Dirk. Where is the info for the BMW?
Jim Fosse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dirk Slabbert" <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dirk Slabbert"
<dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
Had a look at that too, but for some reason or another I'm not so
happy with a belt redrive and radiators.
Have you ever thought about the R1100 RS BMW engine?
100 HP continious, feul injected, easy on petrol, very reliable etc?
This installation should be lighter or the same weight as the 912, and
a bit cheaper too, also comes with a geared redrive.
Dirk.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Roberts
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 6:33 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve in a 701?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick Roberts <n601gr@yahoo.com>
From all I can pull from the digest, this combo will work for a 701:
Suzuki 1.3L 4 cyl 8 valve engine with redrive from Cleo or Raven and
engine mount from Raven. Fraction of the price of a 912. Is anybody
flying this setup?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
---------------------------------
====
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====
====
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Zinc chromate primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Fosse" <jfosse1@shawneelink.net>
Why not zinc oxide? Readily available and allegedly as effective as
zinc chromate and safer too.
Jim Fosse, 701, Rudder, Firewall and Horiz Stab completed.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Joemotis@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Zinc chromate primer
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
I called Aircraft Spruce about my back ordered zinc chromate and they
informed me that the company who bought Randolph paints is
discontinuing the
manufacture of it. So, I then called Wicks and they had 4 gallons left
so I bought 2.
Looks like another wrench has been thrown in the works. Some boatshops
still
have spray cans at $8.oo a pop; any suggestions?
Joe Motis
601 XL
do not archive
====
====
====
====
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Alarm System |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com>
The battery runnig dead is a problem motorcyclists who have alarms on their
rides have to deal with. (Small batteries, longish times of not being
used/recharged. I would suggest looking into a system for a motorcycle.
Below is a link to one site that offers alarms for motorcycles, good luck.
http://shop.vendio.com/evan2002/category/6069/
Bob Lindley
download! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs Meter Pressure Switch |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Fred Sanford <sonar1@cox.net>
Leo:
Probably too late for you at 99% complete, but I was going to look into
making a little comparator with a 741 op amp. The voltage across the oil
pressure gage at 40 or so psi is 2.2 volts.
One small ic, a resistor, and a zener diode; ($3 total) connected to
the oil pressure gage terminals should give either zero or twelve volts
out to run the hobbs.
If you have an electronics friend, perhaps he could make you a
comparator circuit, and you would not have to be tapping into your
engine's blood supply.
Haven't built one, so it's just a suggestion..................
Fred Sanford
701 rudder
Ca.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alarm System |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 5/17/04 11:30 AM, "Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com>
>
> I would suggest looking into a system for a motorcycle.
>
Even that solution will still draw current. My motorcycle alarm will draw
the battery down within several weeks to where the motorcycle will not
start. Supplementing a small solar charger that has a capacity greater than
the current consumption of the alarm would solve the problem and these are
readily available.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 12
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| Subject: | laser etched labeling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
Just thought I'd share this experience with the list. When I first laid
out my panel I used Visio to produce labels for my switches, throttle,
choke etc. I printed them out using my laser printer onto Avery labels.
The solution seemed to be ok until some of them started peeling and some
began to fade as my finger tried to reattach them and over time rubbed
off some of the ink.
Anyway I looked into laser etching (like found on trophies), and for $50
Canadian I got some labels etched into a rigid black plastic with white
lettering. The nice thing was that I could use my own fonts and do some
bordering which all came out nicely from the laser etcher. All I needed
to do was provide a CorelDraw file with the layout of the labels to
scale.
I'll take some photos when I have a chance if anyone is interested.
Frank Jones
C-GYXQ
Ottawa
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Hi Larry
The voltage is 12-30 V. So I'll assume this will work in most applications.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Hour Meter
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> As long as the voltage is correct, it will work. Larry N1345L
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave & Darlene
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 9:11 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Hour Meter
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene"
<dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
>
> Just for everyones info and anyone who's looking. I was at Princess Auto
today and they had an Hour Meter on sale. I paid $24.99 CDN. I'm a long way
in needing one but I thought it was a good price in case any of you builders
are looking. I assume these will work the same as a Hobbs meter.
> Dave
> XL plans only
> 1% done
> 99% to go.
> looking for deals on anything to do with the XL
> dnimigon@telusplanet.net
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.675 / Virus Database: 437 - Release Date: 5/2/2004
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: aileron trim anti-servo tab |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan knezacek" <dknezace@bconnex.net>
I am considering putting in an anti-servo tab as aileron trim.
One thing I have found is that while the elevator forces are light, on the
601HD, that the aileron forces are quite a bit heavier with the "elastically
hinged ailerons". An anti-servo tab would tend to lighten up the ailerons.
The challenge would be to not lighten them up too much.
Another advantage would be to be able to mount the servo inside the wing
instead of inside the aileron. This would mean that there would be no
flexing on the cable, therefore longer cable life.
Any comments?
Dan
CH-601 HD EA81 soob
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: aileron trim anti-servo tab |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:34:35 -0400
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan knezacek" <dknezace@bconnex.net>
>I am considering putting in an anti-servo tab as aileron trim.
Dan, what you're proposing is called a boost tab if it's what I think you're
describing. It's found on aerobatic a/c but usually on the elevator. I've used
them on 1/4 and 1/3 scale RC a/c.
>that the aileron forces are quite a bit heavier with the "elastically
hinged ailerons".
Are you basing this on your completed and flying a/c or just on the popular rumor
that infests this list?
>Another advantage would be to be able to mount the servo inside the wing
instead of inside the aileron.
To my knowledge it doesn't require a servo, just linkage that moves the tab opposite
the surface to which it is attached; at least that's how all versions
I've seen and installed have worked.
jeff
Message 16
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| Subject: | RE: Zinc Chromate ?? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
NAPA auto parts stores carry a product "martin senour 7222 Zincrom primer".
According to it's MSDS
(http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/msds/martin/3198.pdf) it contains
"zinc oxide". I've used this to prime aluminum on my project.
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
Message 17
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| Subject: | re: wing strut fittings |
0.5 MIME_BASE64_LATIN RAW: Latin alphabet text using base64 encoding
1.0 MIME_BASE64_TEXT RAW: Message text disguised using base64 encoding
--> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
I just worked on this on Sunday. I spent about 20 minutes drilling and 2 hours
thinking about how to do this. I do not have the fwd and rear fuselage riveted
but just clecoed and this was the last step before taking it apart, deburring
and riveting. I opened all the holes to #20 he front of the fitting and clecoed
it down firm. I cut a #40 bit just short enough to fit into my right angle
drill attachment that fits on my regular air drill. I drilled the pilot holes
from the inside of the channel and clecoed. I cut a 3/16" bit short but it did
not fit good in the chuck. I used another 3/16" and the right angle drill and
could drill the fwd 2 holes from inside the cabin thru the pilot holes. I could
not get the rear holes due to the angle of the rear fuselage. I will open them
up when I take apart the 2 halves for deburring. If any of this was not possible
I would have marked the location of the channel pickups on the gear channel
as best I could and when taking it all apart for deburring fit it back together
and drilled it from the outside the channel. since you predrilled the holes
in the fitting you could punch or mark thru them and drill them with the
fittings off. You might be able to get them with the flexible attachment on your
dremel tool if you have one. I found the small right angle drill attachment
invaluable for this and drilling the gussets.
Brian
I am about to drill the wing strut fittings to fuselage. Does anyone have any words
of wisdom for drilling the holes inside the channel. I have the holes drilled
in the steel tabs that fit inside the channel, the problem is then back
drilling through the aluminum portion. There is no room to drill from inside of
the cabin so they must be drilled from inside of the channel. This would take
a very small angle drill head which I do not have. Does anyone have another solution.
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Just for everyones info and anyone who's looking. I was at Princess Auto today
and they had an Hour Meter on sale. I paid $24.99 CDN. I'm a long way in needing
one but I thought it was a good price in case any of you builders are looking.
I assume these will work the same as a Hobbs meter.
Dave
XL plans only
1% done
99% to go.
looking for deals on anything to do with the XL
dnimigon@telusplanet.net
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