Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:06 AM - Re: Engine mount for Rotax 912 (Johann)
2. 06:04 AM - Re: Cortec question? (John)
3. 08:13 AM - cortec (Mark Sherman)
4. 09:23 AM - corrosion control articles (baileys)
5. 12:28 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/30/04 (Gig Giacona)
6. 07:29 PM - [ Matt Dralle ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
7. 08:12 PM - Cable parts. (Larry Martin)
8. 08:15 PM - Control Assembly? (Jimmy Parker)
9. 08:22 PM - Re: Cable parts. (Jimmy Parker)
10. 08:40 PM - Re: Cable parts. (Joemotis@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Engine mount for Rotax 912 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann" <johann@gi.is>
Jon,
Thank you for your reply. I did get a confirmation from a friend in Finland,
Max Johansson, that according to the new drawings, the correct measurement
is 20mm from leading edge. Do not know why it was changed, maybe something
to do with the cowling?? I will drill the holes now without hesitation.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
Iceland.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Croke
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Engine mount for Rotax 912
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Johann,
That bracket is the ONE part that survived my crash!! (just kidding... my
flapperon handle made it too!)
I measured my hole and the front one is 15mm from the front edge as you
describe.. was unaware of the new 20mm dimension.. but anyhow, cannot
imagine what difference it would make, tho I am sure there was a reason.
I can testify that at 15mm, the plane will fly for at least 2 hours, maybe
longer if you keep the throttle springs at their factory specification.
Jon
Havent heard from Zed out there.... hope those tornados are leaving him
alone!
definitely do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann" <johann@gi.is>
>
> Hello list members.
>
> I have a question about the E1-1X steel bracket for the Rotax 912 on my
> Zenith 701.
>
> To attatch the bracket onto the engine, we need to drill two holes in the
> bracket. On my drawing, the forward hole is located 15 mm from the front
> edge and 55mm up from the E2-1X dynafocal brackets. Distance between the
> holes is 213,5mm and the remaining measurement is 41,5 mm to the trailing
> edge of the bracket.
>
> I have a correction to this drawing that indicates the 15mm measurement is
> now 20mm from leading edge, which makes the trailing measurement 36,5 mm.
>
> Is this according to what you have as the correct figures??
>
> I do not want to drill into this part until I know for sure.
>
> I would also like to thank everone who responded to my inquire about the
> flaperon handle. Your input was very helpful.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cortec question? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John" <jlifer@bellsouth.net>
Kevin wrote:
"I have allot of questions about proper corrosion protection techniques using the
Cortec primer bought from you. "
Hi Kevin, I've a lot of the same questions, I'm about a week ahead of you having
formed several of the tail parts. I bought an old -about 2001- rudder kit from
a fellow and didn't notice anything untoward about the aluminum. I've since
bought a couple of sheets from Aircraft Spruce to get me started and I have
put Cortec on all inside parts so far. On the rudder I diluted and brushed
the inside. Took about a day to fully cure. After that, I couldn't get it off.
I sprayed the formed parts I have made so far yesterday and that looks to
be the easiest way to work with the stuff.
I am concerned that it really won't help and I'm thinking about doing a trial
with some salt water and aluminum. Has anyone done this?
I haven't seen any corrosion from fingerprints, I'm farther south than you and
humidity has been very high when its not raining! Are you sure you have 6061-T6
and not clad? Pure aluminum will corrode very quickly.
John in Mississippi 75 degrees and 100% humidity today!
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
John.
Not sure where you got your information about pure
aluminum corroding quickly? That's why they put it on
the out side of 2024 aircraft aluminum so that it
WON'T corrode. The higher the alloy content of
aluminum the quicker it will corrode. That is why ZAC
uses 6061-T6, it is less likely to corrode than 2024
or 7075 aluminum. And is cheaper.
As far as preparing the aluminum for primer. You need
to etch it with Alumaprep and then treat it with
Alodine. This removes any corrosion and treats the
material surface so no new corrosion won't start any
time soon. You should prime within 24 hours of this
process. This is the mil-spec way of of preparing
aluminum.
You can find this at Aircraft Spruce. (haz-mat charge
applies) Some local automotive paint supply shops
carry it also.
To the other person who said something about a salt
bath. Why would you start the corrosion process on
new material? Keep you aluminum dry and clean!!
Mark S.
CH-701/912ULS
Engine and instruments
to go.
Message 4
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| Subject: | corrosion control articles |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
Hello Zenith fans,
EAA Chapter 1000 maintians a lot of technical information online. Here is
the index to their corrosion control information.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
I hope you find it useful.
Bob B. 701 #7-5552
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/30/04 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
Kevin,
I'm concerned you either didn't get 6061-T6 aluminum or you got a bad batch.
My construction is taking place in a very high humidity location and I have
peices of aluminum that have been sitting around since September of 2002
with no sign of corrosion.
Add to that, that back in the days I was shooting pistols in competition my
sweat could cause hard chromed handguns to rust if they weren't immediatly
cleaned after a match. Again, there is not a sign of finger print corrosion
on any of my parts.
Keep in mind, I'm talking about aluminum that has no corrosion protection on
it except where metal meets medal. Check your aluminum something is wrong.
Gig Giacona
www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
>
> Here is an email I sent to ZAC. You guys please read and give advice. I
sent this
> to ZAC for the official answer.
>
> Kevin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin W Bonds
> Subject: Cortec question?
>
>
> Hello
>
> I have allot of questions about proper corrosion protection techniques
using the
> Cortec primer bought from you. I've gone back and forth on different
techniques.
> One problem I am having is that my aluminum is stored in a damp place. And
> I am concerned that I am having corrosion (evident from a light white film
that
> will not come off with degreaser--most evident are the finger prints)
start
> before I am ready to apply the cortec. What should I do?
>
> I plan to clean and apply protection to the mating surfaces only accept
for the
> outside along the rivet lines--I figure the primer and paint should seal
that
> up nicely. Is this good technique? Can/Should I dip rivets in cortec
before pulling?
> Will the cortec repel the paint if applied to the outside?
>
> If I have some Corrosion starting to form from the damp conditions in my
work space
> what should I do about the non-mating surfaces on the inside? How do I
clean
> those? Can I just put the cortec on top of the corrosion and not worry?
>
> I saw on the Matronics List that a lot of guys are using scotch brite pads
to clean
> the surface but I can't find the proper stock number of scotch brite pads
> to use (I only find the "Heavy Duty" and "No scratch" ones). The "Heavy
Duty"
> ones seem to leave to many visible scratches and the "No Scratch" ones do
nothing.
> Have you guys had any experience with these?
>
> Kevin Bonds
> Nashville Tn
> Zenithair Zodiac 601XL plansbuilder; rudder complete;
> almost done with forming blocks;
> making parts for elevator
Message 6
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| Subject: | [ Matt Dralle ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: WWII Bombers at Livermore California - May 31 2004
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dralle@matronics.com.05.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Just a word to people who are just ordering kits or parts of kits from Zenith.
Turnbuckles or cable shackles are not provided with your control system. Today
I started to run my rudder and elevator cables and spent three hours looking
for the turnbuckles and cable shackles, thinking I had misplaced them. They
show them in all the pictures and drawings and have them on their demonstrator
at Mexico. Why shouldn't they have been provided? I finally looked at the
inventory sheet, which I hadn't looked at for months and low and behold, they
didn't ship them. You get little plates with nuts and bolts instead. On the
last page of the control section they tell you turnbuckles are an option. Not
for me, if you don't use turnbuckles, you have no adjustments.
My only thought and reason for saying anything other than being hacked about wasting
most of my day is that maybe someone else won't have to look as long as
I did. Plus I really wanted them today and it just strikes me as Zenith not being
up front, cheap and cutting corners.
Before someone says, "You should have read the instructions first", all I can say
is that I have run a lot cables and don't need instructions for running cables
and I know what parts are normally used.
Larry N1345L Tomorrow might be better.
Take a look, www.gyrostabs.com
---
Message 8
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| Subject: | Control Assembly? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jimmy Parker <jwestie1@juno.com>
I've installed the controls on my 701.
What is the final assembly procedure on the controls?
I don't want to cut anything until I'm sure it's right.
Jim
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jimmy Parker <jwestie1@juno.com>
Thanks for the info Larry.
After your post, I looked for mine that I "knew" would be there; but,
they were not.
I spend more time looking for parts than I do putting them together.
Thanks again,
Jim
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Hi Larry
As I am awaiting my control kit from ZAC right now it seems I am walking into
the same thing. Would you mind posting the part numbers for the turn buckles
when you get them I am guessing that they are going to be off the shelf
Aircraft Spruce kind of hardware? Or any other helpfulls to the Inexperienced
riggers out there. Using myself as the prime example.Rigged an outboard once...
Joe Motis
601 XL
Do not archive
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