Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:59 AM - Cortec - Olive green (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
2. 04:59 AM - 601XL Aileron skin (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Cable parts. (Carlos Sa)
4. 05:32 AM - Re: Cable parts. (Frank Jones)
5. 05:42 AM - Re: Cable parts. ()
6. 06:12 AM - Re: Cable parts. (Benford2@aol.com)
7. 06:26 AM - Re: Cable parts. (Larry Martin)
8. 06:58 AM - Re: cortec (John)
9. 09:12 AM - Re: Cable parts. (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
10. 11:34 AM - Stratus Alternator Light (Andrew SanClemente)
11. 11:49 AM - Re: Re: cortec (Kevin W Bonds)
12. 12:13 PM - Re: Stratus Alternator Light (Bill Cardell)
13. 12:53 PM - Carb Choke (Roger Roy)
14. 01:39 PM - New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Thilo Kind)
15. 01:45 PM - Re: Corrosion (Kevin W Bonds)
16. 02:20 PM - Re: Corrosion (Wayne Glasser)
17. 02:48 PM - Re: Corrosion (Ed Kramer)
18. 05:02 PM - Re: Cable parts. (Joemotis@aol.com)
19. 07:17 PM - Antennas (Larry Martin)
20. 07:50 PM - Re: Antennas (Thomas F Marson)
21. 08:15 PM - Re: Antennas (Arthur Nation)
22. 08:39 PM - Re: Antennas (Ray Montagne)
23. 08:52 PM - Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Brett)
24. 08:53 PM - Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Brett)
25. 08:54 PM - Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Brett)
26. 09:02 PM - Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Brett)
27. 09:03 PM - Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Brett)
28. 09:04 PM - Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop (Brett)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cortec - Olive green |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
I bought 5 gallon of Cortec olive green (373) and have 4 gallon for sale. I
will sell it for $75/gallon and that includes shipping in the U.S. I have
been using it and am very happy with it so far. It can be thinned with water
or
de-natured alcohol. Non-toxic....water cleanup...dries in a couple of
hours...sticks like crazy. ZAC uses the clear stuff and sells it for about
$20/quart, but I wanted the olive green. It's fresh...only about a month old.
Anybody need some?
Dave Harms
videoflyer@aol.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | 601XL Aileron skin |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
Well, this is embarrassing. But I'm sure many of you can understand how it
happened. I was taking advantage of the long holiday weekend to make some
major progress on my plane. All in all, it was a great weekend. Until today.
I
started working on the ailerons. I had already made the angled cuts on the
ends and was laying out the rivet spacing when I realized...I had cut two RIGHT
ailerons. Dang!!!! I did a quick check with ZAC and found that they want
about $150 for a new skin. And if that's the price I have to pay for my mistake,
well, who am I gonna blame?
But then I was thinkin. This is a perfectly good right aileron skin. It's a
shame to use it for scrap. I wonder if anyone out there has a 601XL wing kit
that hasn't started to build the ailerons yet. And would they be willing to
swap an uncut aileron skin for one that is already cut. Hmmmm?
The skin is cut correctly. It's not a mistake, other than that I made two
RIGHT ailerons. There are no dings or crimps in the skin and I would be happy
to provide pictures to verify that. The rivet spacings are marked on the skin
but have not been drilled. No other work has been done on the skin, other
than cutting the end.
Let me know if we can work a deal. I'd even be happy to pay for your
trouble, in addition to shipping both ways.
Dave Harms
Zenith 601XL builder
videoflyer@aol.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Larry, this is not bad faith on the part of ZAC:
The old plans (i.e., CH601-HD, HDS) show the "home-made" turnbuckles - a pair of
L extrusions, a
nut and a bolt (and a safety wire)
It appears the XL drawings show turnbuckles instead - maybe they should have left
that part of the
drawings alone.
Carlos
do not archive
>
> Just a word to people who are just ordering kits or parts of kits from Zenith.
Turnbuckles or
> cable shackles are not provided with your control system.
...
> You get little plates with nuts and bolts instead. On the last page of the control
section they
> tell you turnbuckles are an option. Not for me, if you don't use turnbuckles,
you have no
> adjustments.
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Frank Jones" <fjones@sympatico.ca>
FWIW, when I ordered my kit back in November of 2001 turnbuckles were
included.
Frank Jones
C-GYXQ 601XL
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <tgrazian@bellsouth.net>
With my 601XL kit (ser 5342) thatI picked up in Jan of this year, I was supplied
all the turnbuckles, thimbles, shackles, etc as shown on dwg 6B-23 in the kit
fastener box.
Tony Graziano, Buchanan Tn
Completed: tail feathers, flaps, ailerons, both wings with lockers, aux tanks,
strobes & land/taxi lights. Currently working on fuselage.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 5/31/2004 9:13:13 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
earthloc@att.net writes:
>
> Before someone says, "You should have read the instructions first", all I
> can say is that I have run a lot cables and don't need instructions for running
> cables and I know what parts are normally used.
>
> Larry N1345L Tomorrow might be better.
>
> Take a look, www.gyrostabs.com
My 801 kit bought in 2001 was VERY complete. It had everything needed to get
in the air.
Ben Haas N801BH
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Joe, The turnbuckle assembly number is AN140, you need four. The shackle number
is AN115-21, you need six. Either Spruce or Wicks should have them. On the
rudder cables you use shackles at the petal end, and turnbuckle at the rudder
end. Elevator, shackles at both ends and turnbuckle in the middle somewhere near
the belly service door.
Carlos, No I agree it's not bad faith on Zeniths part. It's just business, plates
made out of left over scrap is a lot cheaper to provide than turnbuckles.
I only gripe is that if this is what they are going to provide then it is what
they should use on their machine and show in the manual. If you will notice
in the manual they don't even show the plates, only turnbuckles and shackles.
It is in fact a small form of deception, intended or not.
Almost without exception you will have to adjust your cables after the first flight
or two. Once they are adjusted to suit your needs, then you can, if you
desire, replace the turnbuckles with solid plates. Solid plates are actually
safer in the long run. But I always start with turnbuckles.
I noticed on several postings that all cable related parts seem to be provided
on 601s, but not 701s. They should be provided on both.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: Joemotis@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cable parts.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Hi Larry
As I am awaiting my control kit from ZAC right now it seems I am walking into
the same thing. Would you mind posting the part numbers for the turn buckles
when you get them I am guessing that they are going to be off the shelf
Aircraft Spruce kind of hardware? Or any other helpfulls to the Inexperienced
riggers out there. Using myself as the prime example.Rigged an outboard once...
Joe Motis
601 XL
Do not archive
---
Version: 6.0.688 / Virus Database: 449 - Release Date: 5/18/2004
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John" <jlifer@bellsouth.net>
Mark, you are right about the cladding, the pure aluminum will resist corrosion
and protect the inner layer of alloy. But I do wonder if Kevin does have 6061-T6.
I'm still wondering if the Cortec is the best way to prime.
John
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
In a message dated 6/1/2004 8:27:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
earthloc@att.net writes:
>
> Almost without exception you will have to adjust your cables after the first
> flight or two. Once they are adjusted to suit your needs, then you can, if
> you desire, replace the turnbuckles with solid plates. Solid plates are
> actually safer in the long run. But I always start with turnbuckles.
>
>
For my 701 that is in work now, I bought the turn buckle assemblies from
Wicks. The ZAC print spells out part numbers in detail.
the metal plates, when used WITH turnbuckles, will allow gross adjustment of
each cable installation. Then the turnbuckle threads can end up in the correct
settings as in AC 43.13.
I plan to start with the metal plates set up to allow for length adjustment
as needed after I see how the turnbuckles/cables fit. Yes, new metal plates
will need to be drilled to fit.
Most completed AC I have seen have used BOTH metal plates and turnbuckles.
Jerry Erickson
Message 10
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| Subject: | Stratus Alternator Light |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Andrew SanClemente <ansancle@townisp.com>
Im having a problem with the Alternator Light on my status EA-81.
Currently the wire off the Alternator goes to one side of the light,
the other post of the light is wired to the Ignition post on the
ignition switch (Power when key turned to "on"). With the engine off
this light would go on when you turned the key to the "on" position
(engine off).
The light no longer goes on (light works fine when tested on a
battery) and I understand the stratus Alternator can fry itself if
this is not hooked up properly.
>From what I have read in the archives I do have it wired correctly.
(My Exciter wire goes to the BAT post on the ignition switch per
updated instructions to hook this to 12V+ don't think this matters)
Is that "L" wire off the alternator supposed to be + or neg? From the
diagram it appears that it is 12v+ hooked to both sides of the light,
help appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew
Im having a problem with the Alternator Light on my status EA-81.
Currently the wire off the Alternator goes to one side of the light, the other
post of the light is wired to the Ignition post on the ignition switch (Power
when key turned to on). With the engine off this light would go on when you
turned the key to the on position (engine off).
The light no longer goes on (light works fine when tested on a battery) and
I understand the stratus Alternator can fry itself if this is not hooked up properly.
From what I have read in the archives I do have it wired correctly. (My Exciter
wire goes to the BAT post on the ignition switch per updated instructions
to hook this to 12V+ don't think this matters)
Is that L wire off the alternator supposed to be + or neg? From the diagram it
appears that it is 12v+ hooked to both sides of the light,
help appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
I do have 6061-T6.
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <jlifer@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: cortec
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "John" <jlifer@bellsouth.net>
>
> Mark, you are right about the cladding, the pure aluminum will resist
corrosion and protect the inner layer of alloy. But I do wonder if Kevin
does have 6061-T6. I'm still wondering if the Cortec is the best way to
prime.
> John
Message 12
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| Subject: | Stratus Alternator Light |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Cardell <bill@flyinmiata.com>
The way it works is you have +12 from ign switch going through the bulb and
grounding through the alternator. Once the alternator wakes up, you have +12
coming from alternator, so +12 on each side of the bulb, making the bulb go
out. With key on, engine off, try supplying a ground at the alternator to
see if light comes on. If not, you've got an internal problem in the
alternator/reg.
Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
bill@flyinmiata.com
Flyin' Miata
1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
970-242-3800 (tech support)
http://flyinmiata.com
http://flyinprotege.com
Message 13
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Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 15:51:35 -0400
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Roger Roy" <Savannah174@msn.com>
Can anyone tell me what the part number that ZAC is listing for the Choke
cable attachment to the Carb on a Rotax 912ULS? Thanks
RJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cable parts.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Larry, this is not bad faith on the part of ZAC:
> The old plans (i.e., CH601-HD, HDS) show the "home-made" turnbuckles - a
> pair of L extrusions, a
> nut and a bolt (and a safety wire)
>
> It appears the XL drawings show turnbuckles instead - maybe they should
> have left that part of the
> drawings alone.
>
> Carlos
> do not archive
>
> >
> > Just a word to people who are just ordering kits or parts of kits from
> > Zenith. Turnbuckles or
> > cable shackles are not provided with your control system.
> ...
>
> > You get little plates with nuts and bolts instead. On the last page of
> > the control section they
> > tell you turnbuckles are an option. Not for me, if you don't use
> > turnbuckles, you have no
> > adjustments.
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
Hi folks,
as promised, here is a first impression of my 601 HDS / Rotax 912 with the new
Woodcomp SR 3000 inflight adjustable propeller (3 blade, 68''). Previously I had
the GSC 3 blade ground adjustable propeller. With that one, I saw 110 mph at
4,900 RPM.
The first few flights with the SR 3000 showed some serious improvements. I don't
have the manifold pressure sensor hooked up yet, so I need the adjust throttle
and pitch somewhat by gut feeling. However, I saw 120 mph at 4,600 RPM. I still
had plenty of power and pitch left, but didn't want to push it without the
manifold pressure sensor.
Way cool is the reverse function on the propeller (only to be used on the ground,
of course): I can taxi now backwards! Also, I was able to stop within 300'
after touch down with that feature.
Will keep you posted.
Later
Thilo Kind
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
Gig
I deffinately have 6061-T6. I should clarify that I don't exactly know that
what I'm seeing is corrosion. It could be th beginning of corrosion or just
normal I'm not sure. My storage place is very damp. One wall is completely
backfilled (dirt behind) and the water leaches through the wall. I am
planning on waterproofing as soon as it is dry enouph (it has rained allot
here).
Anyway when I brought in my aluminum I had to unpack the two 250lb crates
and bring in a few sheets at a time. It was raining and the aluminum got
wet. I separated them the next day and dried them all but where there had
been water traped between them the aluminum was now discolored. My finger
prints (and sweat perhaps) seem to leave this same sort of white film or
discolorization. Maybe its just the nature of it? Maybe if I had corrosion I
would know it. I am just worried that it is light corrosion stating to
happen.
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/30/04
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona"
<wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
>
> Kevin,
>
> I'm concerned you either didn't get 6061-T6 aluminum or you got a bad
batch.
> My construction is taking place in a very high humidity location and I
have
> peices of aluminum that have been sitting around since September of 2002
> with no sign of corrosion.
>
> Add to that, that back in the days I was shooting pistols in competition
my
> sweat could cause hard chromed handguns to rust if they weren't immediatly
> cleaned after a match. Again, there is not a sign of finger print
corrosion
> on any of my parts.
>
> Keep in mind, I'm talking about aluminum that has no corrosion protection
on
> it except where metal meets medal. Check your aluminum something is wrong.
>
> Gig Giacona
> www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds"
<kbonds@worldshare.net>
> >
> > Here is an email I sent to ZAC. You guys please read and give advice. I
> sent this
> > to ZAC for the official answer.
> >
> > Kevin
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Kevin W Bonds
> > Subject: Cortec question?
> >
> >
> > Hello
> >
> > I have allot of questions about proper corrosion protection techniques
> using the
> > Cortec primer bought from you. I've gone back and forth on different
> techniques.
> > One problem I am having is that my aluminum is stored in a damp place.
And
> > I am concerned that I am having corrosion (evident from a light white
film
> that
> > will not come off with degreaser--most evident are the finger prints)
> start
> > before I am ready to apply the cortec. What should I do?
> >
> > I plan to clean and apply protection to the mating surfaces only accept
> for the
> > outside along the rivet lines--I figure the primer and paint should seal
> that
> > up nicely. Is this good technique? Can/Should I dip rivets in cortec
> before pulling?
> > Will the cortec repel the paint if applied to the outside?
> >
> > If I have some Corrosion starting to form from the damp conditions in my
> work space
> > what should I do about the non-mating surfaces on the inside? How do I
> clean
> > those? Can I just put the cortec on top of the corrosion and not worry?
> >
> > I saw on the Matronics List that a lot of guys are using scotch brite
pads
> to clean
> > the surface but I can't find the proper stock number of scotch brite
pads
> > to use (I only find the "Heavy Duty" and "No scratch" ones). The "Heavy
> Duty"
> > ones seem to leave to many visible scratches and the "No Scratch" ones
do
> nothing.
> > Have you guys had any experience with these?
> >
> > Kevin Bonds
> > Nashville Tn
> > Zenithair Zodiac 601XL plansbuilder; rudder complete;
> > almost done with forming blocks;
> > making parts for elevator
>
>
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Gig / Kevin
I can assure you from my experience 6061T6 will corrode and corrode badly if
not treated correctly. I shudder when I read that people are building
without corrosion protection in areas which become inaccessible after
construction is complete.
I live not far from the sea, near a major airport and also not far from an
oil refinery so I may be worst case. I too first noticed the white power on
the skin surface but when I looked closely the pitting was quite deep and
oddly enough often looks like spirals. I don't know if this is
intergranular corrosion to which high strength alloys are susceptible.
Now I coat any bare material with boeshield or lps3 which are wax like
compounds dissolved in an evaporating agent.
Needless to say, all my interior surfaces contain corrosion protection.
Regards
Wayne Glasser
Sydney - Australia
CH601-XL 5075
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Corrosion
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
>
> Gig
>
> I deffinately have 6061-T6. I should clarify that I don't exactly know
that
> what I'm seeing is corrosion. It could be th beginning of corrosion or
just
> normal I'm not sure. My storage place is very damp. One wall is completely
> backfilled (dirt behind) and the water leaches through the wall. I am
> planning on waterproofing as soon as it is dry enouph (it has rained allot
> here).
>
> Anyway when I brought in my aluminum I had to unpack the two 250lb crates
> and bring in a few sheets at a time. It was raining and the aluminum got
> wet. I separated them the next day and dried them all but where there had
> been water traped between them the aluminum was now discolored. My finger
> prints (and sweat perhaps) seem to leave this same sort of white film or
> discolorization. Maybe its just the nature of it? Maybe if I had corrosion
I
> would know it. I am just worried that it is light corrosion stating to
> happen.
>
> Kevin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/30/04
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona"
> <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
> >
> > Kevin,
> >
> > I'm concerned you either didn't get 6061-T6 aluminum or you got a bad
> batch.
> > My construction is taking place in a very high humidity location and I
> have
> > peices of aluminum that have been sitting around since September of 2002
> > with no sign of corrosion.
> >
> > Add to that, that back in the days I was shooting pistols in competition
> my
> > sweat could cause hard chromed handguns to rust if they weren't
immediatly
> > cleaned after a match. Again, there is not a sign of finger print
> corrosion
> > on any of my parts.
> >
> > Keep in mind, I'm talking about aluminum that has no corrosion
protection
> on
> > it except where metal meets medal. Check your aluminum something is
wrong.
> >
> > Gig Giacona
> > www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
> >
> >
> > >
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds"
> <kbonds@worldshare.net>
> > >
> > > Here is an email I sent to ZAC. You guys please read and give advice.
I
> > sent this
> > > to ZAC for the official answer.
> > >
> > > Kevin
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Kevin W Bonds
> > > Subject: Cortec question?
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello
> > >
> > > I have allot of questions about proper corrosion protection techniques
> > using the
> > > Cortec primer bought from you. I've gone back and forth on different
> > techniques.
> > > One problem I am having is that my aluminum is stored in a damp place.
> And
> > > I am concerned that I am having corrosion (evident from a light white
> film
> > that
> > > will not come off with degreaser--most evident are the finger prints)
> > start
> > > before I am ready to apply the cortec. What should I do?
> > >
> > > I plan to clean and apply protection to the mating surfaces only
accept
> > for the
> > > outside along the rivet lines--I figure the primer and paint should
seal
> > that
> > > up nicely. Is this good technique? Can/Should I dip rivets in cortec
> > before pulling?
> > > Will the cortec repel the paint if applied to the outside?
> > >
> > > If I have some Corrosion starting to form from the damp conditions in
my
> > work space
> > > what should I do about the non-mating surfaces on the inside? How do I
> > clean
> > > those? Can I just put the cortec on top of the corrosion and not
worry?
> > >
> > > I saw on the Matronics List that a lot of guys are using scotch brite
> pads
> > to clean
> > > the surface but I can't find the proper stock number of scotch brite
> pads
> > > to use (I only find the "Heavy Duty" and "No scratch" ones). The
"Heavy
> > Duty"
> > > ones seem to leave to many visible scratches and the "No Scratch" ones
> do
> > nothing.
> > > Have you guys had any experience with these?
> > >
> > > Kevin Bonds
> > > Nashville Tn
> > > Zenithair Zodiac 601XL plansbuilder; rudder complete;
> > > almost done with forming blocks;
> > > making parts for elevator
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ed Kramer" <edair701@adelphia.net>
> I definitely have 6061-T6. I should clarify that I don't exactly know that
> what I'm seeing is corrosion.
Look at the affected area with a 10x magnifier. If it's corrosion you'll
see pits in the alum.
Ed Kramer
West Seneca, NY
CH 701
edair701@adelphia.net
Build Status: Stalled
Completed: Rudder, Left wing, Right wing.
Working On: Flaperons 50%
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Corrosion
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds" <kbonds@worldshare.net>
>
> Gig
>
> I deffinately have 6061-T6. I should clarify that I don't exactly know
that
> what I'm seeing is corrosion. It could be th beginning of corrosion or
just
> normal I'm not sure. My storage place is very damp. One wall is completely
> backfilled (dirt behind) and the water leaches through the wall. I am
> planning on waterproofing as soon as it is dry enouph (it has rained allot
> here).
>
> Anyway when I brought in my aluminum I had to unpack the two 250lb crates
> and bring in a few sheets at a time. It was raining and the aluminum got
> wet. I separated them the next day and dried them all but where there had
> been water traped between them the aluminum was now discolored. My finger
> prints (and sweat perhaps) seem to leave this same sort of white film or
> discolorization. Maybe its just the nature of it? Maybe if I had corrosion
I
> would know it. I am just worried that it is light corrosion stating to
> happen.
>
> Kevin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/30/04
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona"
> <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
> >
> > Kevin,
> >
> > I'm concerned you either didn't get 6061-T6 aluminum or you got a bad
> batch.
> > My construction is taking place in a very high humidity location and I
> have
> > peices of aluminum that have been sitting around since September of 2002
> > with no sign of corrosion.
> >
> > Add to that, that back in the days I was shooting pistols in competition
> my
> > sweat could cause hard chromed handguns to rust if they weren't
immediatly
> > cleaned after a match. Again, there is not a sign of finger print
> corrosion
> > on any of my parts.
> >
> > Keep in mind, I'm talking about aluminum that has no corrosion
protection
> on
> > it except where metal meets medal. Check your aluminum something is
wrong.
> >
> > Gig Giacona
> > www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
> >
> >
> > >
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kevin W Bonds"
> <kbonds@worldshare.net>
> > >
> > > Here is an email I sent to ZAC. You guys please read and give advice.
I
> > sent this
> > > to ZAC for the official answer.
> > >
> > > Kevin
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Kevin W Bonds
> > > Subject: Cortec question?
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello
> > >
> > > I have allot of questions about proper corrosion protection techniques
> > using the
> > > Cortec primer bought from you. I've gone back and forth on different
> > techniques.
> > > One problem I am having is that my aluminum is stored in a damp place.
> And
> > > I am concerned that I am having corrosion (evident from a light white
> film
> > that
> > > will not come off with degreaser--most evident are the finger prints)
> > start
> > > before I am ready to apply the cortec. What should I do?
> > >
> > > I plan to clean and apply protection to the mating surfaces only
accept
> > for the
> > > outside along the rivet lines--I figure the primer and paint should
seal
> > that
> > > up nicely. Is this good technique? Can/Should I dip rivets in cortec
> > before pulling?
> > > Will the cortec repel the paint if applied to the outside?
> > >
> > > If I have some Corrosion starting to form from the damp conditions in
my
> > work space
> > > what should I do about the non-mating surfaces on the inside? How do I
> > clean
> > > those? Can I just put the cortec on top of the corrosion and not
worry?
> > >
> > > I saw on the Matronics List that a lot of guys are using scotch brite
> pads
> > to clean
> > > the surface but I can't find the proper stock number of scotch brite
> pads
> > > to use (I only find the "Heavy Duty" and "No scratch" ones). The
"Heavy
> > Duty"
> > > ones seem to leave to many visible scratches and the "No Scratch" ones
> do
> > nothing.
> > > Have you guys had any experience with these?
> > >
> > > Kevin Bonds
> > > Nashville Tn
> > > Zenithair Zodiac 601XL plansbuilder; rudder complete;
> > > almost done with forming blocks;
> > > making parts for elevator
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cable parts. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Thanks for the info ,Larry. Guess will have to take a wait and see with the
issue. I will post here which ones come, when they come.
Cheers
Joe
Do not archive
Message 19
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
I know very little (very little means almost nothing) about antennas and their
placements. On my 701 I will have four different antennas. Com, transponder,
GPS and ELT. My current plan is to place all of them on top of the fuselage
directly behind the luggage compartment. My questions are, is that an acceptable
location?, does it matter how close one is to the other?, do they interfere
with each other? Or is there a preferred configuration? Do I need to install
any inline filters?
I know to some these are dump ass questions, but I would rather ask them now than
redo later. Loading me up with technical reasons and data will just go over
my head, straight forward answers I will understand. I know how to do all the
necessary wiring.
Any help will be appreciated. Larry N1345L
Take a look, www.gyrostabs.com
---
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
Transponder should be placed on belly, GPS can be inside plane looking out
of windshield, Com is Iassume is 18" whip that can be where your planning.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Antennas
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> I know very little (very little means almost nothing) about antennas and
their placements. On my 701 I will have four different antennas. Com,
transponder, GPS and ELT. My current plan is to place all of them on top of
the fuselage directly behind the luggage compartment. My questions are, is
that an acceptable location?, does it matter how close one is to the other?,
do they interfere with each other? Or is there a preferred configuration?
Do I need to install any inline filters?
> I know to some these are dump ass questions, but I would rather ask them
now than redo later. Loading me up with technical reasons and data will
just go over my head, straight forward answers I will understand. I know
how to do all the necessary wiring.
> Any help will be appreciated. Larry N1345L
>
>
> Take a look, www.gyrostabs.com
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 21
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@w-link.net>
On Tuesday 01 June 2004 19:12, Larry Martin wrote:
Larry,
Transponder antenna definitely underneath aircraft. Com antennas usually top
mounted but also underneath would be ok.
GPS and ELT definitely on top.
Arthur
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> I know very little (very little means almost nothing) about antennas and
> their placements. On my 701 I will have four different antennas. Com,
> transponder, GPS and ELT. My current plan is to place all of them on top
> of the fuselage directly behind the luggage compartment. My questions are,
> is that an acceptable location?, does it matter how close one is to the
> other?, do they interfere with each other? Or is there a preferred
> configuration? Do I need to install any inline filters? I know to some
> these are dump ass questions, but I would rather ask them now than redo
> later. Loading me up with technical reasons and data will just go over my
> head, straight forward answers I will understand. I know how to do all the
> necessary wiring. Any help will be appreciated. Larry N1345L
>
>
> Take a look, www.gyrostabs.com
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 22
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 6/1/04 7:12 PM, "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> Any help will be appreciated. Larry N1345L
>
>
The GPS operates near the first harmonic of the transponder so you don't
want these antennas close together. Put the transponder antenna on the
belly and the GPS on top somewhere.
Some GPS receivers provide a tuned notch filter. Check with the GPS
manufacturer to see if one is needed.
The com and ELT antennas operate on the same frequency band and their
placement relative to each other could change the impedance and radiation
pattern of these antennas. It is also possible for the COM antenna to
radiate RF energy directly back into the radio if the antenna is too close
to the radio. This will usually result in distortion on your transmitted
signal. Similar problems can occur with RF coupling into the power bus.
Make sure the radio is properly grounded. Try and locate the COM transmit
antenna at least 1/2 wavelength from the radio. The wavelength varies over
the COM frequency band with a wavelength equal to approximately 45 inches at
119.00 mHz to 39 3/4 inches at 136 mHz (if memory serves me correctly, the
formula is 5400 / frequency in mHz = 1/2 wavelength in inches but I could be
off on the constant as its been many years since I've played around with
this stuff...). Having the feed line cut to an integral multiple of 1/2
wavelength well help maintain a good match. If you wanted to get extremely
picky then you could also factor in the velocity factor of the feed line
(coax) to determine the exact length of feed line that would be equivalent
to a 1/2 wavelength.
I'd keep the COM and ELT antennas at least 1/4 wavelength apart...
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne - AC6QJ
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
If you don't mind could you tell me where you got it and how much.
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
If you don't mind could you tell me where you got it and how much.
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
If you don't mind could you tell me where you got it and how much.
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
If you don't mind could you tell me where you got it and how much.
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
If you don't mind could you tell me where you got it and how much.
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: New Woodcomp SR 3000 prop |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
If you don't mind could you tell me where you got it and how much.
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
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