Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:24 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/12/04 (Grant Corriveau)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Rivet pitch and edge distance (Monty Graves)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: Rivet pitch and edge distance (Thomas F Marson)
4. 08:24 AM - (Mark Sherman)
5. 10:15 AM - Cleco Sizes (Dave & Darlene)
6. 12:25 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (Bill Howerton)
7. 12:48 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (Johann)
8. 02:47 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (Bill Steer)
9. 02:54 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (Chuck Deiterich)
10. 03:48 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
11. 04:00 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
12. 05:22 PM - 701 FWF (Mark Sherman)
13. 07:17 PM - Selling engine and parts (David Brough)
14. 10:13 PM - Re: Cleco Sizes (Jack Russell)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/12/04 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> Rivet Pitch: I'm marking my bottom rudder skin for 40 pitch. My edge of skin
> line is 9mm back and my last hole rib line is back 10mm from end of rib. What
> do I do if this doesn't allow for perfect 40 pitch? Looks to be off by about
> 10mm. Have I %crew$d the pooch?
A 'rivetting' story (groan) to put things in perspective: I was working for
Bombardier a few years back when the first RJs were being assembled. Some
first line customers were touring the plant with us -- being duly impressed
with the new facility etc... While they were facing me, and had their backs
towards the wing assembly area, I could see over their shoulders as a
riveter obvioisly screwed something up while bucking a rivet. He stopped,
shook his head, conisidered something about his error, then just moved on
and kept rivetting. I laughed to myself, thankful that the customers hadn't
seen this and would ask "Is that OUR airplane?!"
So, this episide helped me relax and realize what Chris Heintz means when he
says something like: we aren't building a supersonic fighter... so just be
careful and apply normal craftsmanship. This list is one good way to pick
this up from other builders, just as you are doing.
Best
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
do not archive
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Rivet pitch and edge distance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
I might suggest an addition to Mike's excellent idea.
If you drill #40 holes, ( I believe that's the correct bit for the 3/32
silver celcos) in the metal flexible ruler, in a drill press with a fence
that is set for the proper edge distance. For example on trailing edges
like the wing parts. the ruler guide will give you both rivet spacing and
edge distance at the same time. There are also places one can.... Drill
the #40 pilot hole, and cleco the ruler in place on both ends and drill the
holes as a guide without marking with a sharpie therefore giving as strait
a rivet line as the holes were drilled in the ruler. Enlarge the hole to
the correct rivet size and deburr after the complete line is drilled for
the pilot hole.
Monty
At 04:24 PM 6/12/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
>
>
>Or, you could do the simplest method of all....take an aluminum
>yardstick, and drill holes in it for the various rivets pitches you'll be
>using (30, 40, etc). Now when you have to mark holes on a part with a
>certain pitch, simply line up the pre-dilled holes over the rivet line on
>the piece, mark dots through the holes with a Sharpie, and you're ready
>to drill. No calculator or formulas needed. If the pitch doesn't divide
>up evenly between the end points (which it rarely does), simply center
>the pitch on the yardstick within the space you have to work with, and
>you're good to go.
>
>Mike Fortunato
>601XL
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Rivet pitch and edge distance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
I would like to add that I have the Rivet fan and find its use requires
care. That is because as it is stretched out mine begins to form a curved
line. I can't use it directly for long runs because of that. Tom Marson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Monty Graves" <mgraves@usmo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivet pitch and edge distance
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
>
> I might suggest an addition to Mike's excellent idea.
>
> If you drill #40 holes, ( I believe that's the correct bit for the 3/32
> silver celcos) in the metal flexible ruler, in a drill press with a fence
> that is set for the proper edge distance. For example on trailing edges
> like the wing parts. the ruler guide will give you both rivet spacing
and
> edge distance at the same time. There are also places one can.... Drill
> the #40 pilot hole, and cleco the ruler in place on both ends and drill
the
> holes as a guide without marking with a sharpie therefore giving as strait
> a rivet line as the holes were drilled in the ruler. Enlarge the hole to
> the correct rivet size and deburr after the complete line is drilled for
> the pilot hole.
>
> Monty
>
>
> At 04:24 PM 6/12/04 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: wizard-24@juno.com
> >
> >
> >Or, you could do the simplest method of all....take an aluminum
> >yardstick, and drill holes in it for the various rivets pitches you'll be
> >using (30, 40, etc). Now when you have to mark holes on a part with a
> >certain pitch, simply line up the pre-dilled holes over the rivet line on
> >the piece, mark dots through the holes with a Sharpie, and you're ready
> >to drill. No calculator or formulas needed. If the pitch doesn't divide
> >up evenly between the end points (which it rarely does), simply center
> >the pitch on the yardstick within the space you have to work with, and
> >you're good to go.
> >
> >Mike Fortunato
> >601XL
>
>
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Hi list
This is going to sound a little dumb but what are the cleco colours and drill sizes
required for the XL. Told you it as dumb.
Dave
dnimigon@telusplanet.net
Alberta
601XL
Form blocks finished
bending ribs etc.
Most of tail parts made
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Dave,
You have three:
3/32" These are silver - they equate to a #40 drill bit, and are used with
A3 rivets
1/8" These are brass colored - they equate to a #30 bit, and are used with
A4 rivets
5/32" These are black, and equate to a #20 bit, and are used with A5 rivets
The 1/8" and 5/32" are far and away the most common in the kits - you need
to have 200-300 of each of these, the 3/32" are usually for holding together
pieces of sheet metal that have been drilled with a #40 pilot bit -- you can
probably get by with 30-40 of these
Bill
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann" <johann@gi.is>
Hello Dave.
There are no dumb questions on this list. We are here to help you with your
building of your Zenith aircraft. Everyone is here to help.
You will need all these sizes.
The most used drill sizes are #40=3/32"(2,4mm)=silver color clecos,
#30=1/8"(3,2mm)=bronze clecos This is the rivets mostly used on your plane.
Finally you will need #20 drill=5/32"(4,1mm)and black clecos.
You will almost every time start with drill #40 which is the smallest drill,
just in case you will need to move the hole a little in case of misalignment
of the part.
Do not hesitate to ask a question, even though you think it is dumb.
Just ask and you will get answered.
Happy building.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Zenith 701
www.fisflug.tk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave & Darlene
Subject: Zenith-List: Cleco Sizes
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene"
<dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Hi list
This is going to sound a little dumb but what are the cleco colours and
drill sizes required for the XL. Told you it as dumb.
Dave
dnimigon@telusplanet.net
Alberta
601XL
Form blocks finished
bending ribs etc.
Most of tail parts made
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
I agree with the other responsers - just ask if you have a question. You
might also want to pick up a copy of the "Standard Aircraft Handbook," by
Larry Reithmaier. It's chock full of all sorts of good information you'll
need as you build, including the answer to your cleco question at the bottom
of page 67.
Bill
> This is going to sound a little dumb but what are the cleco colours and
drill sizes required for the XL. Told you it as dumb.
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd@phreego.com>
Bill,
# 20 or #21 drills (I used the smaller #21 per Tony Bingelis), A5 rivets are
5/32 and black clecos
But
#30 drill, A4 rivets are 1/8" and clecos are copper colored.
Brass colored clecos are 3/16".
Chuck D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cleco Sizes
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Howerton" <Bill@Howerton.com>
>
> Dave,
> You have three:
>
> 3/32" These are silver - they equate to a #40 drill bit, and are used
with
> A3 rivets
> 1/8" These are brass colored - they equate to a #30 bit, and are used
with
> A4 rivets
> 5/32" These are black, and equate to a #20 bit, and are used with A5
rivets
>
> The 1/8" and 5/32" are far and away the most common in the kits - you need
> to have 200-300 of each of these, the 3/32" are usually for holding
together
> pieces of sheet metal that have been drilled with a #40 pilot bit -- you
can
> probably get by with 30-40 of these
>
> Bill
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> This message was scanned by GatewayDefender
> 5:33:58 PM ET - 6/13/2004
>
>
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
In a message dated 6/13/2004 4:48:08 PM Central Daylight Time, bsteer@gwi.net
writes:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
>
> I agree with the other responsers - just ask if you have a question. You
> might also want to pick up a copy of the "Standard Aircraft Handbook," by
> Larry Reithmaier. It's chock full of all sorts of good information you'll
> need as you build, including the answer to your cleco question at the bottom
> of page 67.
>
> Bill
>
> > This is going to sound a little dumb but what are the cleco colours and
> drill sizes required for the XL. Told you it as dumb.
>
>
While on the subject of useful technical information, there are the FAA
Advisory Circulars that cover airframe, powerplant and general info for A & P
mechanics.
These AC's cover the basic info used to test for both the Airframe and
Powerplant, Airman Certificates.
Why should homebuilders know or care about such technical info?
Many of us will be inspecting our own aircraft. There is a difference between
new construction, and CONDITION inspection. The ANNUAL inspection required by
FAR Part 43 for your homebuilt aircraft. You will sign it off, as airworthey
for the coming 12 months, as the FAA Certificated Repairman for that aircraft.
So, same requirements as for an A&P. You are going to get the Repairman
Certificate, right???
By getting to know what is required ahead of time, we are more likely to
bring better skills, and mind set, to the task.
Good Fathers Day
AC 43.13 - 1B/2A Aircraft Inspection, Repair & Alterations
AC 65 - 9A A&P Mechanics General Handbook
AC 65 - 15A A&P Mechanics Airframe Handbook
AC 65 - 12A A&P Mechanics Powerplant Handbook
Or the latest versions of each. They seem to run less than $20.00 each. Look
for them on the EAA Book lists, some airport pilot shop's too. Bookstores
where A&P courses are taught.
Jerry Erickson, 701SP, fuselage in work, 912ULS waiting
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
I might be color blind....but my 1/8 inch clecos are COPPER colored. My 3/16
inch clecos are BRASS.
Dave
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mark Sherman <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
Sorry about the previous blank posting. I have had
trouble posting a message, the spam firewall kept
bouncing me out. Must be something I said.
I have decided to use the FWF kit by sky shop in FL.
They seem to at least be interested in selling a
complete kit. And saves me a grand also.
After talking to Danny at sky shops about the
increased hp with cold air intake and a more
streamlined cowling, that's the way I decided to go.
The modifications to the air box look minimal, maybe
just for cowling clearance.
I'll let everyone how it looks when I receive it in
late July.
I already have the motor mount from ZAC, and because
sky shops couldn't supply the FWF kit without the
motor mount I will be selling a 701/rotax 912 motor
mount when I receive my FWF kit. Anyone interested
please e-mail me.
Mark Sherman
CH-701/912ULS
Started wiring the radio
and instruments today.
__________________________________
Message 13
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Subject: | Selling engine and parts |
Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 19:16:18 -0700
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Brough" <dvbrough@hotmail.com>
I have been flying my zodiac 601 HDS now for about a year here in Arizona and have
found that my Rotax 912 80 Hp isn't powerful enough to easily handle 115 degree
heat nor the wind shears that are here. Therefore I'm upgrading to a 912S
and now have my 912UL with 92 hours on it for sale. It's in excellent condition
and I'm asking $8500. This includes the ignition system, carbs, starter,
and oil tank. I also have some other items that I'm not using: Zenith factory
cowling for the 601 HDS $375, Zenith radiator, (the one that was to go under
the cowling) $85, and also have a GSC prop (from Zenith) 68inch with spinner
ground adjustable TT 36 hrs. $375. And a Avcomm AC-747 headset, new still
in box, $175 --Let me know if interested Dave
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
I have bought extra clecos 3 times now and I still run out of them. At some stages
of building I run out of the black and other times it is the copper. Then
all of a sudden you get to a point of riveting and your bucket runnith over again
with clecos. I also bought about 15 of the 3/16" when I got tired of using
machine screws and nuts. Cleco's are much easier. Jack
Jack Russell -Clovis CA
601 XL Jabiru 3300
Progress update at:
http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
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