Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:13 AM - Re: Steps (Phil Raker)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! (Larry Martin)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: invitation for innovations (Larry Martin)
4. 06:13 AM - Re:From the "bigger is better" crowd (W.R. \)
5. 06:18 AM - Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! (Thomas F Marson)
6. 06:49 AM - Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! (Ray Montagne)
7. 08:28 AM - Re: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant... ()
8. 09:38 AM - cabin heat location (RURUNY@aol.com)
9. 11:33 AM - Re: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant... (Larry McFarland)
10. 12:40 PM - Re: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant... (Mark Townsend)
11. 03:04 PM - CH-801 spinner (rbauer@intergate.com)
12. 03:38 PM - Re: Progress Report for N282RS (nhulin)
13. 04:06 PM - Re: Re: Progress Report for N282RS (Randy Stout)
14. 06:17 PM - Re: Steps (Bob Miller)
15. 06:21 PM - Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! (Larry Martin)
16. 06:22 PM - Re: CH-801 spinner (Larry Martin)
17. 07:02 PM - Manual Aileron Trim (Bob Miller)
18. 07:44 PM - Re: canopy adhesive (Ron DeWees)
19. 07:48 PM - Re: CH-801 spinner (Rich)
20. 09:12 PM - Re: Re: canopy adhesive (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
21. 10:10 PM - Re: CH-801 spinner (Gary Liming)
Message 1
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Phil Raker <phadr1@yahoo.com>
Bob,
I had the same concerns about the tube steps (mainly lots of drag). Then
I got to thinking about the flat-angle steps that are common on single-engine
Cessnas, mounted low beside the firewall for checking fuel tanks. I made
something similar from 2 pieces of 3"x3"x1/8" extruded angle, a piece of .090"
strap, and a few extra "L"s. They're mounted at the bottom edge, just behind
the trailing edge. They work well - the only down-side to them is a long first
step up.
If you don't like that idea, see the design by George Pinneo, printed in
Zenair News a couple of years ago. It's thin & flat, so less drag than round
tubes; and the step hangs below the fuselage, just like the tube steps, so
shorter first step than mine. Complete design drawings and explanations were
published.
My design required less fabrication than George's and used materials I had
available at the time. I can send photos (off line) to anyone who'd like to
see them.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
> Date: July 13, 2004
> Time: 05:57:41 AM PST US
> From: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: invitation for innovations
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller"
> <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
>
> A small one I'm currently thinking about is a simple, lightweight step for
> my 601
> The tube step in the design looks pretty heavy as well as draggy.
> Bob
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Hey Joe, go look at my site http://www.angelfire.com/un/ch701/exhaust.html. I'm sure you could do something similar on the Jabiru. The main thing you should do with any kind of exhaust system is to use the spring load clamps. It takes the stress off the welds.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: xl
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 11:57 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: I heard my muffler fail this time!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
I replaced the Jabiru 3300 muffler a week and a half ago at ~63 hours.
The stock new one cracked at ~70 hours. And I did hear it this time.
I am now sensitized to the change in tone. It is louder but
not as much as I'd think. 2500 rpm with the cracks sounded
about like 3000 rpm without the cracks. It wasn't much different
sounding than when the last one fell off. Somewhat like going
from 1000 rpm to 3000 rpm on takeoff.
When I landed and pulled the cowl I found the front right weld
cracked at the top and was working down. The front left weld
was cracked to about 2/3s of the way down. And when I moved the
tailpipes up and down the cracks got bigger. It appears that
once the cracks start they can get bigger quickly. The muffler
bounces up and down and opens the cracks.
Maybe I should stick with straight pipes.
Is there a way to build a straight muffler (about 2.5" in diameter)
that would be more neighborly than unmuffled pipes?
Joe E.
N633Z
---
Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: invitation for innovations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Hey Mark, I'm also in the process of electrifying my flaps. I thought about using a car seat actuator but decided to use something I think would be more reliable, plus I didn't want anything that looked rigged (I'm not saying your does, I don't know). I found an electromechanical actuator I think would do the job at http://www.mcmaster.com/, page 890. I haven't bought it yet, but I am interested on your thoughts of pressure needed and stroke lenght. The one I am looking at is 25 lbs and either a 4" or 6" stroke. Skyshops now sells a setup for the 701 at $589. I can't find that exact actuator anywhere. If anyone knows the ACME part number, I would like to have it. I plan on doing the exact same thing using a Ray Allen led and the spare switches on my Ray Allen stick grip at about 1/2 the cost.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: Cdngoose
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 2:04 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: invitation for innovations
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
Hi Bob
Over the next week or so I will be making my step as well and I'm
planning on doing an airfoil shape to reduce drag. I will take full
photo's and post it as soon as possible, I'm also close to finishing the
hookup for the Ford seat powered flap mechanism Will post that one ASAP.
Mark Townsend
601XL EJ 2.2L
Alma, Ontario
www.ch601.org
-----Original Message-----
A small one I'm currently thinking about is a simple, lightweight step
for
my 601 that can be stored in the baggage compartment. It would lean
against
the joint between wing and fuselage, so that the main weight of the
person
using it is transferred to the ground. After use, pilot can lean over
and
pick it up and stow it. The tube step in the design looks pretty heavy
as
well as draggy.
Bob
---
Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
Message 4
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| Subject: | re:From the "bigger is better" crowd |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "W.R. \"Gig\" Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox-internet.com>
Does it even say that much? All I saw was...
Product Specifications
Product Specifications coming soon!
Machanical(sic) Power
Machanical(sic) Power Specifications coming soon!
GigG
peoamerica.net/N601WR
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
Hi Larry. I know you are thinking this too----------- but what is wrong
with my installation? Have you heard of others failing.?. What does Jab
USA in Wisconsin say about this, what does Zenith say.
Or is this a common failing of the muffler from Jabiru----- is it a Jab
supplied muffler?
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: I heard my muffler fail this time!
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> Hey Joe, go look at my site
http://www.angelfire.com/un/ch701/exhaust.html. I'm sure you could do
something similar on the Jabiru. The main thing you should do with any kind
of exhaust system is to use the spring load clamps. It takes the stress off
the welds.
>
> Larry N1345L
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: xl
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 11:57 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: I heard my muffler fail this time!
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
>
>
> I replaced the Jabiru 3300 muffler a week and a half ago at ~63 hours.
> The stock new one cracked at ~70 hours. And I did hear it this time.
> I am now sensitized to the change in tone. It is louder but
> not as much as I'd think. 2500 rpm with the cracks sounded
> about like 3000 rpm without the cracks. It wasn't much different
> sounding than when the last one fell off. Somewhat like going
> from 1000 rpm to 3000 rpm on takeoff.
>
> When I landed and pulled the cowl I found the front right weld
> cracked at the top and was working down. The front left weld
> was cracked to about 2/3s of the way down. And when I moved the
> tailpipes up and down the cracks got bigger. It appears that
> once the cracks start they can get bigger quickly. The muffler
> bounces up and down and opens the cracks.
>
> Maybe I should stick with straight pipes.
> Is there a way to build a straight muffler (about 2.5" in diameter)
> that would be more neighborly than unmuffled pipes?
>
> Joe E.
> N633Z
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 7/14/04 6:17 AM, "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
>
> Hi Larry. I know you are thinking this too----------- but what is wrong
> with my installation? Have you heard of others failing.?. What does Jab
> USA in Wisconsin say about this, what does Zenith say.
>
> Or is this a common failing of the muffler from Jabiru----- is it a Jab
> supplied muffler?
>
> Tom
Hi Tom,
Have you tried the Jabiru list? Pete from Jabiru USA is a member of that
list and consistently contributes to the discussion...
See: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jabiruengines/>
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
NOTE: Heavy SPAM filters in place. Replies that do not include
the word 'Zenith' or 'Zodiac' will be rejected and will not
be viewable by me.
===========================================================================
Message 7
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| Subject: | Fuel fittings seal/lubricant... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
This is BS! Fuel will NOT break-down Teflon Tape!! Teflon Tape will be around
long after we're all dead of boredom from reading misinformation like this.
Used properly it will outlast the aluminum in your airframe. It's routinely used
in gas pumps in filling stations across the world and in my Zodiac for 9 years.
Mr. Galley has a thing about it, but that's his problem.
GGP
Message 8
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| Subject: | cabin heat location |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
Someone recently on the list asked about the location of the 701 cabin heat option.
I have some of the old firewall fwd manuals I printed last year before they
were updated. There is one picture that happened to catch its location in the
701 demo. It shows it mounted in the bottom left hand side of firewall looking
from the pilots seat would be near pilots foot below the z angle across the
firewall. Looking from front
of firewall its at bottom right(pilots side) between oil resivoir bracket and left
skin below the firewall z angle rivet line. Theres not much space there to
play with. It will just barely fit.
I also just spotted another location for it on a builders website. Dan Yeast built
the plane at the builders assistance in Czech Republic. Go here:
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/DanY
and click on My homepage.
Theres a link to his pics. The pic is about 3/4 of the way down, a view from the
front. The other pics are very interesting.
I called Zenith about some documentation on its location and they did not have
any.
I havent cut the hole yet.
Brian
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant...
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
>
> This is BS! Fuel will NOT break-down Teflon Tape!! Teflon Tape will be
around long after we're all dead of boredom from reading misinformation like
this. Used properly it will outlast the aluminum in your airframe. It's
routinely used in gas pumps in filling stations across the world and in my
Zodiac for 9 years.
>
> Mr. Galley has a thing about it, but that's his problem.
>
> GGP
While I didn't get to read the post,
I believe that Cy was probably concerned about the ease with which teflon
tape gets
shreaded when using it on fuel fittings and sharp edges. The prospect of
finding small pieces of
it are not an issue in a car, but perhaps the use of Teflon on an aircraft
raises the bar
for risk, especially for a builder that has scant familiarity with its
correct application.
Larry McFarland
Do Not Archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
George I agree with you on the ability of the tape to last, but just to let
the CDN contengent know, Transport Canada ALSO has an issue with T-tape. so
if you want to pass inspection better hide the tape. It's not the ability of
the tape to seal or age that is the problem, it's the done right factor that
keeps it from clogging the fuel system that is in question.
Mark Townsend
601XL EJ 2.2L
Alma, Ont
----- Original Message -----
From: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fuel fittings seal/lubricant...
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
>
> This is BS! Fuel will NOT break-down Teflon Tape!! Teflon Tape will be
around long after we're all dead of boredom from reading misinformation like
this. Used properly it will outlast the aluminum in your airframe. It's
routinely used in gas pumps in filling stations across the world and in my
Zodiac for 9 years.
>
> Mr. Galley has a thing about it, but that's his problem.
>
> GGP
>
>
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
What spinner should be used for the 801 with O-360 & ZAC cowling? Looks like a
12" diameter. Will the Aircraft Spruce SN-5 spinner kit work?
Thanks
Rich
-------------------------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Progress Report for N282RS |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
On: Mon Jul 12 - 10:24 PM, "Randy Stout" <n282rs@earthlink.net> wrote:
<snip>
After running for a few minutes, I pulled the valve covers and examined the
rockers.
I found a couple too loose. Now that the lifters are pumped up, is there
a reliable way to adjust them with the engine not running? I hate the
thought
of adjusting valves just inches from a running prop.
<snip>
Randy,
WW gave a good demo of setting the rockers at CC#7 in Alliance, Ohio a
couple of weeks back. It really is as his manual says. Check in the
conversion manual because I could be wrong, but from memory it was:
For each cylinder, turn the engine (easier with the plugs out) until you see
the valve fully depressed, set the other valve on the same cylinder as
follows -
Back off the rocker nut until you can just feel the rocker come loose off
the pushrod and valve stem. This is easier than what it sounds like. Wobble
the rocker side to side lightly while loosening the nut and it is really
obvious when you hit the spot.
Tighten the rocker nut (and this is what you need to check) 3/4 turn.
That's it.
You can use this method because there is NO overlap on the OT-10 cam profile
that we are using. I don't think it matters if there is oil in the lifters
or not as long as they are fully extended. If you depress the valve while
your tightening the nut, then you have a stuck lifter, or for whatever
reason, the lifter never extended correctly.
Like I said, I'm doing this from memory so I might have to send apologies
and an update to the list later. I'll check because I wouldn't want to
propagate bad information.
Tailwinds, ...neil
601XL/Corvair
Fuselage and stuff
-------- Golf: All the frustration of building your own aircraft at a
fraction of the cost.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Progress Report for N282RS |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Randy Stout <n282rs@earthlink.net>
Neil
Thanks, I think I got it. I just didn't understand exactly what I was supposed
to be doing. I've been told 3 or 4 different ways doing it, but apparently you
just need about 3/4 turn from full closed with no play between the pushrod/lifter/rocker.
I also got most of the oil leaks stopped just by getting a decient set of the springs
that go under the valve cover bolts. The ones I had would bend when tightened
and would not spring back.
One of the things I think is amazing is that I can hit red line without going full
throttle. The only way I could do that with the VW was with a rather flat
pitch. I'm going to have to increase the pitch some. It is also way much smoother
the the VW and I still need to set the carb up.
I can't wait until I get it in the air to see if I can hit that 120 mph cruise
the ZAC claims.
Randy
>>>>Randy,
>>>>WW gave a good demo of setting the rockers at CC#7 in Alliance, Ohio a
>>>>couple of weeks back. It really is as his manual says. Check in the
>>>>conversion manual because I could be wrong, but from memory it was:
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Phil,
I considered making steps like George's, but decided it would be too much
fabrication for the savings in drag.
Your design sounds interesting...the step would be on level with the
trailing edge of the wing root fairing, right? Some people have beefed up
the wing root fairing and claimed they were strong enough to step on.
With your design that wouldn't be necessary. With George's steps, and with
the tube steps, the weight is distributed between the upper and lower
longerons (via the side skin) like yours, but also they lever against the
lower skin and thus reduce twisting force against the lower longeron. Do
you have any concerns about this twisting force with your design?
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Raker" <phadr1@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Steps
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Phil Raker <phadr1@yahoo.com>
>
> Bob,
> I had the same concerns about the tube steps (mainly lots of drag).
Then
> I got to thinking about the flat-angle steps that are common on
single-engine
> Cessnas, mounted low beside the firewall for checking fuel tanks. I made
> something similar from 2 pieces of 3"x3"x1/8" extruded angle, a piece of
.090"
> strap, and a few extra "L"s. They're mounted at the bottom edge, just
behind
> the trailing edge. They work well - the only down-side to them is a long
first
> step up.
> If you don't like that idea, see the design by George Pinneo, printed
in
> Zenair News a couple of years ago. It's thin & flat, so less drag than
round
> tubes; and the step hangs below the fuselage, just like the tube steps, so
> shorter first step than mine. Complete design drawings and explanations
were
> published.
> My design required less fabrication than George's and used materials I
had
> available at the time. I can send photos (off line) to anyone who'd like
to
> see them.
>
> Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
>
>
> > Date: July 13, 2004
> > Time: 05:57:41 AM PST US
> > From: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net
> > Subject: Re: Zenith-List: invitation for innovations
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller"
> > <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
> >
> > A small one I'm currently thinking about is a simple, lightweight step
for
> > my 601
> > The tube step in the design looks pretty heavy as well as draggy.
> > Bob
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: I heard my muffler fail this time! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
I've seen this happen on several mufflers, not Jabs, no experience there. It is
usually at the weld that connects the muffler to the header/exhaust pipe or
the exhaust pipe where it is welded to the header. The exhaust brackets like the
one I used on mine seem to stop the problem. Wish I could help you more.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas F Marson
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: I heard my muffler fail this time!
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas F Marson" <tmarson@pressenter.com>
Hi Larry. I know you are thinking this too----------- but what is wrong
with my installation? Have you heard of others failing.?. What does Jab
USA in Wisconsin say about this, what does Zenith say.
Or is this a common failing of the muffler from Jabiru----- is it a Jab
supplied muffler?
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: I heard my muffler fail this time!
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> Hey Joe, go look at my site
http://www.angelfire.com/un/ch701/exhaust.html. I'm sure you could do
something similar on the Jabiru. The main thing you should do with any kind
of exhaust system is to use the spring load clamps. It takes the stress off
the welds.
>
> Larry N1345L
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: xl
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 11:57 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: I heard my muffler fail this time!
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
>
>
> I replaced the Jabiru 3300 muffler a week and a half ago at ~63 hours.
> The stock new one cracked at ~70 hours. And I did hear it this time.
> I am now sensitized to the change in tone. It is louder but
> not as much as I'd think. 2500 rpm with the cracks sounded
> about like 3000 rpm without the cracks. It wasn't much different
> sounding than when the last one fell off. Somewhat like going
> from 1000 rpm to 3000 rpm on takeoff.
>
> When I landed and pulled the cowl I found the front right weld
> cracked at the top and was working down. The front left weld
> was cracked to about 2/3s of the way down. And when I moved the
> tailpipes up and down the cracks got bigger. It appears that
> once the cracks start they can get bigger quickly. The muffler
> bounces up and down and opens the cracks.
>
> Maybe I should stick with straight pipes.
> Is there a way to build a straight muffler (about 2.5" in diameter)
> that would be more neighborly than unmuffled pipes?
>
> Joe E.
> N633Z
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
>
>
---
Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Check with you prop manufacturer, they usually have them and they fit. I got mine
from Warp Drive, I believe it was $95 and it fit like a glove.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: rbauer@intergate.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 5:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: CH-801 spinner
--> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
What spinner should be used for the 801 with O-360 & ZAC cowling? Looks like
a
12" diameter. Will the Aircraft Spruce SN-5 spinner kit work?
Thanks
Rich
-------------------------------------------------
---
Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
Message 17
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| Subject: | Manual Aileron Trim |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Zenith Listers,
Jeff Small (of course!) referred me to Barry Mayne when I asked Jeff about
manual aileron trim. Below are the relevant quotes from emails Barry, aka
Baz, sent me. The jpeg drawing Baz sent won't come up on the Zenith list,
but I've sent this also to Mark Townsend of 601.org, so hopefully he'll
have a chance to get the jpeg drawing them up pretty soon. Mark, maybe you
can let the list know when it's ready.
Bob
========
G'day Bob,
What I did instead of fitting an aileron trim tab was to attach a lever to
the spar between my knees which runs 2 nylon cords via small pulleys at
either side then through the spar lightening holes and back to the bottom of
the control yoke where the elevator cable attaches. There is 6" of light
bungee cord on either side of the attachment point, slightly stretched. By
moving the lever either one way or the other slight tension is applied to
one bungee by stretching it and at the same time slackens the other side by
an equal amount ( see attached rough drawing) This applies side force to the
control yoke which means you can adjust the side forces to balance out any
"heavy feel" right or left . The lever is pivoted at the bottom and on an
arc up near the top, a series of indentation allow for a nodule ( in this
case the tail of a rivet through the lever) to click into one of the
indentations. It took an afternoon to make and cost around $5 to make. I
hope you can make sense of the above and my toenail dipped in tar drawing.
It was easy to make and really works well. If one side did break the
lever can be moved to remove any tension on the other side, foolproof. The
lever was made from the same steel strips sent with the wheel fairing ( ZAC
sent me 2 sets ) and bent slightly to have pressure against the arch with
the dimple holes. I also aded a couple of fibre washers on either side of
the spar where it pivots to ensure it didn't scratch the spar. You may also
have noticed that the point where the cable is attached to the lever is
above the pivot point instead of below. This is so when moving the lever to
the right it leans the yoke to the right and visa versa. The actual point of
attachment on the lever is not critical, the higher up the lever, the
further you have to move the lever to trim. Where I have it drawn is about
where I have it and I rarely move the lever more than a couple of inches. I
bent the top of the lever out a bit so it falls easily to hand and because
of the spar cap it is not even seen and I have never moved it accidently.
Incidently, the tension I put on the short pieces of bungee was very small
and the cord I used as cable is only marine nylon about 4mm. The pulleys are
just small aluminium type.
The 2 6" pieces of bungee attach to the point right at the bottom of the
Yoke where the elevator cable attaches. The nylon cables attach to the
bungee, not the point where the elevator attaches to the yoke. The nylon
cable goes from there via the pulleys and back to the lever.
With both sides going to the lever you are tensioning one a little while
reducing tension on the other which halves the tension required when the
yoke is centred. Increasing the tension will reduce the feel of the yoke.
Make up a mock setup out of scrap on the woorkbench and you will see what I
mean.
Baz
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: canopy adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Hi Listers,
I have searched the archives, Tony Bengellis, and tried four different
products to stick the rubber gasket to my canopy on my HDS and had little
luck. What have others used for their canopy seals?
I thought I was on the short end of finishing up, but this canopy is
getting to be a major project.
Thanks
Ron DeWees
N601TD
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rich" <rbauer@intergate.com>
$265 from Sensenich. Trying to get better price if I can.
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH-801 spinner
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <earthloc@att.net>
>
> Check with you prop manufacturer, they usually have them and they fit. I
got mine from Warp Drive, I believe it was $95 and it fit like a glove.
>
> Larry N1345L
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rbauer@intergate.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 5:03 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: CH-801 spinner
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
>
> What spinner should be used for the 801 with O-360 & ZAC cowling? Looks
like a
> 12" diameter. Will the Aircraft Spruce SN-5 spinner kit work?
>
> Thanks
> Rich
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.705 / Virus Database: 461 - Release Date: 6/12/2004
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: canopy adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
3M weatherstrip adhesive.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Waiting on the paperwork.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I have searched the archives, Tony Bengellis, and tried four different
> products to stick the rubber gasket to my canopy on my HDS and had little
> luck. What have others used for their canopy seals?
> I thought I was on the short end of finishing up, but this canopy is
> getting to be a major project.
> Thanks
> Ron DeWees
> N601TD
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
I used one from Van's - the fiberglass was perfect.
Gary Liming
At 05:03 PM 7/14/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
>
>What spinner should be used for the 801 with O-360 & ZAC cowling? Looks
>like a
>12" diameter. Will the Aircraft Spruce SN-5 spinner kit work?
>
>Thanks
>Rich
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------
>
>
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