Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:42 AM - re CH-801 spinner (Jim Frisby)
2. 03:10 AM - Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 (Jim Frisby)
3. 05:29 AM - Re: Steps (Phil Raker)
4. 06:17 AM - Re: CH-801 spinner (Benford2@aol.com)
5. 06:23 AM - Re: Re: canopy adhesive (Larry McFarland)
6. 06:37 AM - Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 (Weston, Jim)
7. 06:40 AM - Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 (Benford2@aol.com)
8. 07:03 AM - Canopy shipping help (Trevor Page)
9. 07:35 AM - Re: Canopy shipping help (Michel Therrien)
10. 08:14 AM - Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 (Hinde, Frank George)
11. 08:17 AM - Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
12. 08:38 AM - Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
13. 10:29 AM - Re: Canopy shipping help (Trevor Page)
14. 12:37 PM - dreamers and lurkers (Carlos Sa)
15. 03:11 PM - Re: CH-801 spinner (rbauer@intergate.com)
16. 06:45 PM - Kudos to McMaster-Carr (Trevor Page)
17. 06:54 PM - Re: Canopy Adhesive (John M. Goodings)
18. 07:40 PM - Re: rivets and not the pulled type (Joemotis@aol.com)
19. 07:54 PM - Bungee Trim (Cdngoose)
20. 08:02 PM - Crimping, Flanfing and Fluting Pliers (Jim Fosse)
21. 08:19 PM - Avex rivets (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
22. 08:56 PM - Re: CH-801 spinner (Benford2@aol.com)
23. 09:31 PM - Re: rivets and not the pulled type (Bryan Martin)
24. 09:48 PM - Re: rivets and not the pulled type (Jack Russell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | re CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
Rich,
Van's RV has nice composit spinner kits with aluminum bulkheads, you have to
cut out the prop openings, If you get one, don't get the 13" model,
probably 12" would be right.
I got the 13" one,and the rear edge of the rear bulkhead contacts my
starter, I'm still contemplating what to do with it, I have already cut out
the dome for the prop, so I can't send it back. Thinking of having the rim
of the rear bulkhead machined off about 1/8".
Jim
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
All
I have about 21 hours on my CH801 with Lycoming O-320 A2B and sensenich
prop. I have one bendix impulse magneto, and one Electroair electronic
ignition.
Tonight (still light enough to fly without a landing light at 11:30 PM here
in Alaska), my engine started to sputter and misfire or miss (seems like on
all cylinders). This happened on climbout with full power, about mid
downwind in the traffic pattern.
Here is the history. I have been having some ignition troubles with the
electronic ignition, missing when the engine was warmed up, and running
below 1200 rpm. The ignition has never missed under load. I reset
(narrowed) the air gap in the Hall effect sensor, and that seems to be
solved.
I normally run the 801 on unleaded auto fuel, which I pump from a tank in my
pickup, through two filters, one particle and one velpro water no-go filter.
Tonight, I took off from my home airport, went about 10 miles to an outlying
airport and pumped 12 gallons of 100LL from their pumps into my tanks. On
the left inboard tank, it had 8 gallons of unleaded, and I added 7 gallons
of 100LL to fill the tank.
I took off with the left inboard tank selected, all seemed fine. I climbed
to about 1500 ' and flew about 20 miles to a third airport. On arriving
there, I made 3 stop and go trips around the pattern.
The fourth time, I continued my downwind leg, to leave the pattern and
return to my home airport.
Just then, the engine seemed slightly rough. I turned back toward the
airport, and sure enough, within 10 seconds, the engine started missing and
sputtering. I reduced power to land, and the engine ran smoothly.
I decided to try to climb higher and see if I could tell what the problem
was, after opening the throttle full again and starting a climb, The engine
started missing again. Thinking it might be an ignition problem, I turned
off the electronic ignition - the engine continued to miss. Then I turned
the electronic ignition back on, and turned off the magneto. The engine
missed almost identically regardless of whether both or either ignition was
on. I also noticed that my fuel pressure was staying normal, (6-7.5 psi
with engine and facet pump both on in paralell)
I went ahead and landed the plane, I drained a full vial of fuel from the
left inboard sump, the belly sump, and the gascolator (on the firewall).
All samples looked good, no sign of water.
Then, I ran the engine on the ramp, at 2350-2500 prm for 4 or 5 minutes,
with no sign of roughness. So, boldly, I took off again, still on the same
fuel tank, climbing out in such a way as to keep the option of landing at
the airport available.
Again, about mid-downwind, the engine started the "warning" slight
roughness. After a few seconds, it started sputtering and missing again.
I landed the plane again, called my wife, tied it down in transient parking,
and there it sits.
Here are my theories:
1) the engine had been stored for 5 years in my shop. It was inverted
regularly and turned over so as to keep the cam and lifters and top side of
the cylinders lubed. Maybe there was dried up gasoline in the carb, maybe
it formed varnish, maybe the varnish finally got loose in there and is
causing my trouble ???
2)Maybe there was water in the fuel but it got past all the sumps without
leaving behind any droplets ??
3)Maybe my valves are sticking from using 100LL when the engine is used to
unleaded (I don't know how sticking valves manifest)
4) maybe the finger screen in the carb has some gunk in it, don't know how
it could, there is a paper auto-in line filter and the gascolator in the
system
5) maybe something is in the bottom of the float bowl, maybe a little water,
maybe it causes the roughness when the nose is tilted up for climb and moves
away when the nose is depressed for landing.
Space below for your opinions:)
6)
7)
8)
Thanks
Jim Frisby
N801ZA
Palmer Alaska (currently stuck at Birchwood Alaska)
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Phil Raker <phadr1@yahoo.com>
No, Bob,
I have no concerns about it. The torsional loads from the step (angle)
are taken out primarily in the .090"x3" strap which runs all the way across the
belly and supports both angles. I've also added a few "L"s inside which help
to take out some of the load into the side skins. If you put your entire
weight on the outboard edge of the step, there is some slight oilcanning of the
belly skin. It doesn't appear to be a problem. If you distribute your weight
across the upper face of the angle (a more natural way to step), there is no
problem at all.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
Time: 06:17:47 PM PST US
From: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Steps
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Phil,
I considered making steps like George's, but decided it would be too much
fabrication for the savings in drag.
Your design sounds interesting...the step would be on level with the
trailing edge of the wing root fairing, right? Some people have beefed up
the wing root fairing and claimed they were strong enough to step on.
With your design that wouldn't be necessary. With George's steps, and with
the tube steps, the weight is distributed between the upper and lower
longerons (via the side skin) like yours, but also they lever against the
lower skin and thus reduce twisting force against the lower longeron. Do
you have any concerns about this twisting force with your design?
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Raker" <phadr1@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Steps
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Phil Raker <phadr1@yahoo.com>
>
> Bob,
> I had the same concerns about the tube steps (mainly lots of drag).
> Then I got to thinking about the flat-angle steps that are common on
single-engine
> Cessnas, mounted low beside the firewall for checking fuel tanks. I made
> something similar from 2 pieces of 3"x3"x1/8" extruded angle, a piece of
.090"
> strap, and a few extra "L"s. They're mounted at the bottom edge, just behind
> the trailing edge. They work well - the only down-side to them is a long
> first step up.
> If you don't like that idea, see the design by George Pinneo, printed in
> Zenair News a couple of years ago. It's thin & flat, so less drag than round
> tubes; and the step hangs below the fuselage, just like the tube steps, so
> shorter first step than mine. Complete design drawings and explanations were
> published.
> My design required less fabrication than George's and used materials I
had
> available at the time. I can send photos (off line) to anyone who'd like to
> see them.
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 7/14/2004 4:04:54 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
rbauer@intergate.com writes:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
>
> What spinner should be used for the 801 with O-360 & ZAC cowling? Looks like
> a
> 12" diameter. Will the Aircraft Spruce SN-5 spinner kit work?
>
> Thanks
> Rich
>
I want to warn you guys about a vendor I had a very bad experience with.
Predator Aviation in Arizona is a real peice of work, promised me a 14" spinner
and cashed my check back in Aug 03, after multiple promises to ship they finally
send me a 12" one. I had made my cowling fit a 14" spinner and after i
recieved the smaller one I contacted them and all they said was "We don't feel
like
making 14" spinners, use the 12" one" Lucky for them I was several states
away or they would be a missing link for sure.!!! I do have a 12" one they would
not send a call tag for so I could ship it back so if ya need one contact me.I
ended up using a 13" one I got from Vans,very nice unit and a good price too.
Ben Haas N801BH..
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: canopy adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: canopy adhesive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron DeWees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I have searched the archives, Tony Bengellis, and tried four different
> products to stick the rubber gasket to my canopy on my HDS and had little
> luck. What have others used for their canopy seals?
> I thought I was on the short end of finishing up, but this canopy is
> getting to be a major project.
> Thanks
> Ron DeWees
> N601TD
Ron,
I used a product called PolyZap, which had to be ordered from a Florida
dealer.
The stuff was orignially recommended by Fred Hulin and I found this stuff is
really effective.
You only put a small drop every 2" to anchor the rubber, then add just small
drops
in between these anchor points after everything is set. It goes quickly.
The bottles
are only 1-1/2 ounce and you won't use but one. The greatest risk is using
too much
and having it squeeze out on your window. It can't be wiped, so be careful.
Larry McFarland
Message 6
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| Subject: | Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 7/15/2004 7:37:41 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Jim.Weston@delta.com writes:
>
> SmltLA0KIA0KVGhpcyBzb3VuZHMgbGlrZSBjbGFzc2ljIGNhcmJ1cmV0ZXVyIGljZSB0byBtZS4N
> CiANCkppbSBXZXN0b24NCkNvbmNvcmQsIEdhLg0KDQoJLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBNZXNzYWdlLS0t
> LS0gDQoJRnJvbTogb3duZXItemVuaXRoLWxpc3Qtc2VydmVyQG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20gb24gYmVo
> YWxmIG9mIEppbSBGcmlzYnkgDQoJU2VudDogVGh1IDcvMTUvMjAwNCA2OjA5IEFNIA0KCVRvOiB6
> ZW5pdGgtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIA0KCUNjOiANCglTdWJqZWN0OiBaZW5pdGgtTGlzdDog
> RW5naW5lIG1pc2ZpcmluZywgYWR2aWNlIEppbSBGcmlzYnkgQ0g4MDENCgkNCgkNCg0KCS0tPiBa
> ZW5pdGgtTGlzdCBtZXNzYWdlIHBvc3RlZCBieTogIkppbSBGcmlzYnkiIDxuODAxemFAaG90bWFp
> bC5jb20+DQoJDQoJQWxsDQoJDQoJSSBoYXZlIGFib3V0IDIxIGhvdXJzIG9uIG15IENIODAxIHdp
> dGggTHljb21pbmcgTy0zMjAgQTJCIGFuZCBzZW5zZW5pY2gNCglwcm9wLiAgSSBoYXZlIG9uZSBi
> ZW5kaXggaW1wdWxzZSBtYWduZXRvLCBhbmQgb25lIEVsZWN0cm9haXIgZWxlY3Ryb25pYw0KCWln
> bml0aW9uLg0KCQ0KCVRvbmlnaHQgKHN0aWxsIGxpZ2h0IGVub3VnaCB0byBmbHkgd2l0aG91dCBh
> IGxhbmRpbmcgbGlnaHQgYXQgMTE6MzAgUE0gaGVyZQ0KCWluIEFsYXNrYSksIG15IGVuZ2luZSBz
> dGFydGVkIHRvIHNwdXR0ZXIgYW5kIG1pc2ZpcmUgb3IgbWlzcyAoc2VlbXMgbGlrZSBvbg0KCWFs
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> IGFib3V0IG1pZA0KCWRvd253aW5kIGluIHRoZSB0cmFmZmljIHBhdHRlcm4uDQoJDQoJSGVyZSBp
> cyB0aGUgaGlzdG9yeS4gIEkgaGF2ZSBiZWVuIGhhdmluZyBzb21lIGlnbml0aW9uIHRyb3VibGVz
> IHdpdGggdGhlDQoJZWxlY3Ryb25pYyBpZ25pdGlvbiwgbWlzc2luZyB3aGVuIHRoZSBlbmdpbmUg
> d2FzIHdhcm1lZCB1cCwgYW5kIHJ1bm5pbmcNCgliZWxvdyAxMjAwIHJwbS4gIFRoZSBpZ25pdGlv
> biBoYXMgbmV2ZXIgbWlzc2VkIHVuZGVyIGxvYWQuICBJIHJlc2V0DQoJKG5hcnJvd2VkKSB0aGUg
> YWlyIGdhcCBpbiB0aGUgSGFsbCBlZmZlY3Qgc2Vuc29yLCBhbmQgdGhhdCBzZWVtcyB0byBiZQ0K
> CXNvbHZlZC4NCgkNCglJIG5vcm1hbGx5IHJ1biB0aGUgODAxIG9uIHVubGVhZGVkIGF1dG8gZnVl
> bCwgd2hpY2ggSSBwdW1wIGZyb20gYSB0YW5rIGluIG15DQoJcGlja3VwLCB0aHJvdWdoIHR3byBm
> aWx0ZXJzLCBvbmUgcGFydGljbGUgYW5kIG9uZSB2ZWxwcm8gd2F0ZXIgbm8tZ28gZmlsdGVyLg0K
> CQ0KCVRvbmlnaHQsIEkgdG9vayBvZmYgZnJvbSBteSBob21lIGFpcnBvcnQsIHdlbnQgYWJvdXQg
> MTAgbWlsZXMgdG8gYW4gb3V0bHlpbmcNCglhaXJwb3J0IGFuZCBwdW1wZWQgMTIgZ2FsbG9ucyBv
> ZiAxMDBMTCBmcm9tIHRoZWlyIHB1bXBzIGludG8gbXkgdGFua3MuICBPbg0KCXRoZSBsZWZ0IGlu
> Ym9hcmQgdGFuaywgaXQgaGFkIDggZ2FsbG9ucyBvZiB1bmxlYWRlZCwgYW5kIEkgYWRkZWQgNyBn
WOW !!!Thats exactly what I thought was causing the problem... Jim, all ya
got to do is follow this course of repair.... ha ha.
ben
Message 8
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| Subject: | Canopy shipping help |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Fellow listers, I'm in the final stages of building my canopy frame and
its time to order the bubble!
I'm going to order one from Toddscanopies.com and was wondering if
anyone lives or knows of someone reliable in the Buffalo NY area where
I can have it shipped to save costs. Todd says that shipping into
Canada is very expensive and everyone he has done business with in
Canada has always done this. Buffalo is only 1 hour from my place but
Detroit is another option but 3 hours west of me.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Trevor
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy shipping help |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Where are U located in Canada. I recently discovered
Freeport Forwarding. They charge a minimal amount (2$
for a small package to 10$ for a crate, I believe) to
receive shipments. Then, they call you and you come
pick it up.
ADRESSE TATS-UNIS
Freeport Forwarding Inc.
1320 State Route 9,
Champlain, NY 12919
(518) 298-8582
I'm sure there are similar companies around every
major border route.
Michel
--- Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page
> <webmaster@upac.ca>
>
> Fellow listers, I'm in the final stages of building
> my canopy frame and
> its time to order the bubble!
>
> I'm going to order one from Toddscanopies.com and
> was wondering if
> anyone lives or knows of someone reliable in the
> Buffalo NY area where
> I can have it shipped to save costs. Todd says that
> shipping into
> Canada is very expensive and everyone he has done
> business with in
> Canada has always done this. Buffalo is only 1 hour
> from my place but
> Detroit is another option but 3 hours west of me.
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Good morning Jim,
Just a few thoughts. Firstly we have to determine whether the problem is
electrical, fuel or a mechanical problem in the engine.
I would suggest you put the mechanical idea to the bottom of the list
for now, reson being is that if it was a burnt or sticking valve, head
gasket etc it SHOULD be acting up all the time, not just on one phase of
the flight...
So is it electrical or fuel?
If it's a fuel flow problem it will usually get worse with incresing
power...i.e more power means a higher fuel flowrate which the system
can't maintain. So is it getting worse at full throttle?
It could be a sticking float in the carb or a partially plugged jet in
the carb. You say you have normal fuel pressure?..Is that measured right
at the inlet to the carb?...i.e no filter or anything between where the
pressure is measured and the carb?...If so you might want to look at any
potential obstructions. If your pressure is measured right at the carb
your probably OK on the major fuel components except you don't know
about the carb the carb.
You say you have two independent ignition systems (mag and electric) Are
there any electrical points that are common to both systems...like a the
on-off-both switch?...Personally I don't have ANY parts that can fail
that would take both systems out for that very reason.
Basically if it is an electrical thing an it happens the same on both
systems I would be looking for common components, wiring, connectors
etc.
If both systems are completely seperated (which I HIGHLY recommend) then
its unlikely to be electrical.....Then I would be looking at the carb.
Good luck...and I'm glad you played it safe and left it there!
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Frisby
Subject: Zenith-List: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
All
I have about 21 hours on my CH801 with Lycoming O-320 A2B and sensenich
prop. I have one bendix impulse magneto, and one Electroair electronic
ignition.
Tonight (still light enough to fly without a landing light at 11:30 PM
here
in Alaska), my engine started to sputter and misfire or miss (seems like
on
all cylinders). This happened on climbout with full power, about mid
downwind in the traffic pattern.
Here is the history. I have been having some ignition troubles with the
electronic ignition, missing when the engine was warmed up, and running
below 1200 rpm. The ignition has never missed under load. I reset
(narrowed) the air gap in the Hall effect sensor, and that seems to be
solved.
I normally run the 801 on unleaded auto fuel, which I pump from a tank
in my
pickup, through two filters, one particle and one velpro water no-go
filter.
Tonight, I took off from my home airport, went about 10 miles to an
outlying
airport and pumped 12 gallons of 100LL from their pumps into my tanks.
On
the left inboard tank, it had 8 gallons of unleaded, and I added 7
gallons
of 100LL to fill the tank.
I took off with the left inboard tank selected, all seemed fine. I
climbed
to about 1500 ' and flew about 20 miles to a third airport. On arriving
there, I made 3 stop and go trips around the pattern.
The fourth time, I continued my downwind leg, to leave the pattern and
return to my home airport.
Just then, the engine seemed slightly rough. I turned back toward the
airport, and sure enough, within 10 seconds, the engine started missing
and
sputtering. I reduced power to land, and the engine ran smoothly.
I decided to try to climb higher and see if I could tell what the
problem
was, after opening the throttle full again and starting a climb, The
engine
started missing again. Thinking it might be an ignition problem, I
turned
off the electronic ignition - the engine continued to miss. Then I
turned
the electronic ignition back on, and turned off the magneto. The engine
missed almost identically regardless of whether both or either ignition
was
on. I also noticed that my fuel pressure was staying normal, (6-7.5 psi
with engine and facet pump both on in paralell)
I went ahead and landed the plane, I drained a full vial of fuel from
the
left inboard sump, the belly sump, and the gascolator (on the firewall).
All samples looked good, no sign of water.
Then, I ran the engine on the ramp, at 2350-2500 prm for 4 or 5 minutes,
with no sign of roughness. So, boldly, I took off again, still on the
same
fuel tank, climbing out in such a way as to keep the option of landing
at
the airport available.
Again, about mid-downwind, the engine started the "warning" slight
roughness. After a few seconds, it started sputtering and missing
again.
I landed the plane again, called my wife, tied it down in transient
parking,
and there it sits.
Here are my theories:
1) the engine had been stored for 5 years in my shop. It was inverted
regularly and turned over so as to keep the cam and lifters and top side
of
the cylinders lubed. Maybe there was dried up gasoline in the carb,
maybe
it formed varnish, maybe the varnish finally got loose in there and is
causing my trouble ???
2)Maybe there was water in the fuel but it got past all the sumps
without
leaving behind any droplets ??
3)Maybe my valves are sticking from using 100LL when the engine is used
to
unleaded (I don't know how sticking valves manifest)
4) maybe the finger screen in the carb has some gunk in it, don't know
how
it could, there is a paper auto-in line filter and the gascolator in the
system
5) maybe something is in the bottom of the float bowl, maybe a little
water,
maybe it causes the roughness when the nose is tilted up for climb and
moves
away when the nose is depressed for landing.
Space below for your opinions:)
6)
7)
8)
Thanks
Jim Frisby
N801ZA
Palmer Alaska (currently stuck at Birchwood Alaska)
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JERICKSON03E@aol.com
In a message dated 7/15/2004 5:10:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
n801za@hotmail.com writes:
>
> Space below for your opinions:)
> 6 Jim,Sounds like a fuel flow condition that develops after time in flight.
> Things to consider:
You mention the left inboard tank selection leads to the rough condition. How
does it run when other tanks are selected?
Has the paper in line filter, auto, been clear of water? Will it pass water?
Is it installed before the fuel pumps? Does it run with the paper element
removed? [No restriction]
You mentioned that you saw fuel pressure, on the gauge, but are your fuel
tanks vented OK? Do they all flow fuel OK?
Does it run different with carb heat / alt air source on?
Re check the fuel type & source. Could it be a detonation condition,
resulting in rough running & loss of power?
Is cooling airflow path clear and proven OK prior to now?
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine misfiring, advice Jim Frisby CH801 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
Is your fuel pressure sender down stream of all your filters? You can get good
pressure ahead of a clogged filter but low pressure down stream.
Have you checked your air filter? A clogged air filter will cause these symptoms.
The engine will run fine at low throttle settings and bog down at full throttle.
Auto gas can contain dissolved water, especially if it contains alcohol. I've heard
that mixing avgas with auto gas can cause dissolved water to settle out because
the avgas can't hold water as well. But I would think it would show up
in your sumps. Maybe the water staying in suspension until the fuel gets to the
carb. Just a thought.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Waiting on the paperwork.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
>
> All
>
>
> Tonight (still light enough to fly without a landing light at 11:30 PM here
> in Alaska), my engine started to sputter and misfire or miss (seems like on
> all cylinders). This happened on climbout with full power, about mid
> downwind in the traffic pattern.
>
> Thanks
> Jim Frisby
> N801ZA
> Palmer Alaska (currently stuck at Birchwood Alaska)
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy shipping help |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Thanks Michel. I'm in Ontario but all my family is in Quebec :)
I just spoke to Todd and he says that I don't need to know anyone, the
shipping company loading dock closest to me (Buffalo) will call when it
arrives. Then I just go and pick it up. Seems easy enough to me.
Trev
On Jul 15, 2004, at 10:34 AM, Michel Therrien wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> Where are U located in Canada. I recently discovered
> Freeport Forwarding. They charge a minimal amount (2$
> for a small package to 10$ for a crate, I believe) to
> receive shipments. Then, they call you and you come
> pick it up.
>
> ADRESSE TATS-UNIS
> Freeport Forwarding Inc.
> 1320 State Route 9,
> Champlain, NY 12919
>
> (518) 298-8582
>
> I'm sure there are similar companies around every
> major border route.
>
> Michel
>
> --- Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca> wrote:
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page
>> <webmaster@upac.ca>
>>
>> Fellow listers, I'm in the final stages of building
>> my canopy frame and
>> its time to order the bubble!
>>
>> I'm going to order one from Toddscanopies.com and
>> was wondering if
>> anyone lives or knows of someone reliable in the
>> Buffalo NY area where
>> I can have it shipped to save costs. Todd says that
>> shipping into
>> Canada is very expensive and everyone he has done
>> business with in
>> Canada has always done this. Buffalo is only 1 hour
>> from my place but
>> Detroit is another option but 3 hours west of me.
>>
>
> =====
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | dreamers and lurkers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
For those that haven't decided yet...
I've seen this line a number of times over the years, and, as I accumulate kilometrage
(that's
metric for mileage), I find it to be oh-so-true.
I found it in the Hog Air site - http://www.hog-air.com/Quotes.htm
----------------------------------
Zachary Scott
"As you grow older, you'll find the only things you regret are the things you didn't
do."
----------------------------------
Carlos
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
Thanks for the heads up. Looking at the cowling again, I just may need a 13".
I'm debating if I should move the cowling bacl some. As it is, the front center
of the bottom cowl is about 2" forward or the front of the ring gear. ZAC says
not to trim it. I the length was exactly as speced in the manual. But as it is
I have to use a 1.75 or so prop spacer. I don't know if the Van's spinner will
match the angle at the top & bottom cowling so there will be a smooth
transition. Anybody know??? Ben, you don't have the ZAC cowl, correct?
Rich
Quoting Benford2@aol.com:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/14/2004 4:04:54 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> rbauer@intergate.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: rbauer@intergate.com
> >
> > What spinner should be used for the 801 with O-360 & ZAC cowling? Looks
> like
> > a
> > 12" diameter. Will the Aircraft Spruce SN-5 spinner kit work?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Rich
> >
> I want to warn you guys about a vendor I had a very bad experience with.
> Predator Aviation in Arizona is a real peice of work, promised me a 14"
> spinner
> and cashed my check back in Aug 03, after multiple promises to ship they
> finally
> send me a 12" one. I had made my cowling fit a 14" spinner and after i
> recieved the smaller one I contacted them and all they said was "We don't
> feel like
> making 14" spinners, use the 12" one" Lucky for them I was several states
> away or they would be a missing link for sure.!!! I do have a 12" one they
> would
> not send a call tag for so I could ship it back so if ya need one contact
> me.I
> ended up using a 13" one I got from Vans,very nice unit and a good price
> too.
>
> Ben Haas N801BH..
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Kudos to McMaster-Carr |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Yesterday @ 3PM I ordered parts for the XL canopy from McMaster-Carr
(gas struts, eyelets and knob stuff).
This morning they arrived. I've never seen stuff come this fast from
the US to Canada and I didn't pay extra for shipping.
Kudos to them, I'd use them again with service like that!
Trevor Page
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Adhesive |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John M. Goodings" <goodings@yorku.ca>
Super Glue (Crazy Glue, cyanoacrylate) worked very well for me. It has
shown no sign of coming unstuck or deteriorating with a temperature swing
from about -20 to +90 degrees F. Try it out first. The trick is to use
it very sparingly. You can work your way along about 6 inches at a time,
clamping it with your fingers for about 20 seconds to make a permanent
bond. Used sparingly, it doesn't leave any residue. I had to bend the
rubber sealing strip around some fairly tight curves. It was not a
problem. It requires that the rubber strip be smooth and fairly hard,
i.e. not spongey.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with Rotax 912S, Toronto/Kitchener.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List:rivets and not the pulled type |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Greetings listers,
I am to the point where I am making the bellcrank access covers with the
riveted rivets. How do you do this? Are you supposed to drill the hole for the
solid rivet and then countersink it with a drill bit or do I need to buy a
rivet dimple? And, can you set them with a punch against a hard surface?
Also, I would bet that a rivet squeezer is going to needed for the rivets in
the spars for the fingerscreen access covers, Yes?
Thanks
Joe Motis
601XL
Do not archive
Message 19
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
As per Bob Miller's request the Bungee Trim picture and file have been
uploaded to the www.ch601.org website under Builders Resources.
Mark Townsend
601XL EJ 2.2L
Alma, Ontario
www.ch601.org
Message 20
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| Subject: | Crimping, Flanfing and Fluting Pliers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Fosse" <jfosse1@shawneelink.net>
Ready for another dumb 'a**' question? ZAC is a little short on telling folks
about the tools required to put a kit together, e.g., drill, cleco pliers, rivet
puller, square, etc., mostly common tools. Then, when you get into it they
tell you that you will need things like hole finders, crimping pliers, flanging
pliers and fluting pliers. I had my hole finder question answered but now
would like to know a little about those pliers. I have located fluting pliers
but cannot find a listing for crimping and flanging pliers. Are they all functionally
different. You can tell I'm not a tin bender, so can someone give
me a hand?
Jim Fosse, Goreville, IL, 701/Suzuki Working Rt Wing
Message 21
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
Where is a good place to buy the Avex rivets for a Zenith aircraft. I know
Aircraft Spruce sells them. Is there a better (more economical) supplier?
Also, we've been hearing that 4130 (chrome-moly) is almost "extinct." Is
there a substitute? What are you guys using for your planes?
Dave Harms
videoflyer@aol.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: CH-801 spinner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 7/15/2004 4:14:39 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
rbauer@intergate.com writes:
> Thanks for the heads up. Looking at the cowling again, I just may need a
> 13".
> I'm debating if I should move the cowling bacl some. As it is, the front
> center
> of the bottom cowl is about 2" forward or the front of the ring gear. ZAC
> says
> not to trim it. I the length was exactly as speced in the manual. But as it
> is
> I have to use a 1.75 or so prop spacer. I don't know if the Van's spinner
> will
> match the angle at the top & bottom cowling so there will be a smooth
> transition. Anybody know??? Ben, you don't have the ZAC cowl, correct?
>
> Rich
>
>
Rich, I am running the Skyshop cowling made for a Franklin. I have made a
couple of different prop spacers to get my fit perfect. As for the spinner I have
I looked today and remembered it is cut out for a three blade so thats not
gonna help ya. I still think the Vans spinners are the way to go. If only ZAC
could get their vendor to make the glass parts then all would be better in 801
world.
ha.
Ben Haas.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List:rivets and not the pulled type |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 7/15/04 10:40 PM, Joemotis@aol.com at Joemotis@aol.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
>
> Greetings listers,
>
> I am to the point where I am making the bellcrank access covers with the
> riveted rivets. How do you do this? Are you supposed to drill the hole for the
> solid rivet and then countersink it with a drill bit or do I need to buy a
> rivet dimple? And, can you set them with a punch against a hard surface?
>
> Also, I would bet that a rivet squeezer is going to needed for the rivets in
> the spars for the fingerscreen access covers, Yes?
>
> Thanks
> Joe Motis
> 601XL
>
If you're talking about the A3 solid rivets for the nut plates into the wing
skin, you should dimple the metal. You can probably use a punch and a block
of wood to dimple for these small rivets, it doesn't take much. You can set
the rivets with a small hammer.
For the spar rivets, a squeezer would be nice but not necessary. You can set
these rivets with either an air rivet gun and bucking bar or just hit the
rivet set with a hammer. Maybe you can borrow a squeezer for the job, there
aren't many solid rivets on the zodiac.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Getting the paperwork in order.
do not archive.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List:rivets and not the pulled type |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Joe: I quite trying to mess with those tiny solid rivets and just went with
rivnuts on all non structural items. I used 8/32 (6/32 might be better) everywhere
and the application tool wasn't that expensive. I am sure someone will tell
you they will spin in time but I have tried to move them with the vice grips
and they hold tight. I figure that I could always drill off the head of the
screw if the nut spins. I guess if it was in a critical place you could put a
drop of epoxie on it. Jack
Joemotis@aol.com wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Greetings listers,
I am to the point where I am making the bellcrank access covers with the
riveted rivets. How do you do this? Are you supposed to drill the hole for the
solid rivet and then countersink it with a drill bit or do I need to buy a
rivet dimple? And, can you set them with a punch against a hard surface?
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