Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:47 AM - Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location (Bryan Martin)
2. 04:21 AM - Re: Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373 (Robert Eli)
3. 04:56 AM - Re: Electrical Questions (Al Young)
4. 04:59 AM - Eggenfellner Subaru (Tom Faulkner)
5. 05:33 AM - Return to list (Aaron)
6. 06:24 AM - Re: Eggenfellner Subaru (Benford2@aol.com)
7. 08:08 AM - Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections ()
8. 08:59 AM - Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
9. 09:57 AM - Re: Setback (epilog) (David Barth)
10. 10:19 AM - Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections (DVanvoorhi@aol.com)
11. 10:40 AM - Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections (Lance Gingell)
12. 11:35 AM - Re: Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373 ()
13. 12:17 PM - Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections (Dave Austin)
14. 12:33 PM - Re: Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373 (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
15. 02:55 PM - Cortec source (KEITH B SHOAPS)
16. 06:09 PM - Re: Cortec source (Robert Schoenberger)
17. 07:53 PM - Notes from Rotax 912 and 912S basic Engin Maintenance at OSH (LONG) (royt.or@netzero.net)
18. 08:06 PM - Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location (royt.or@netzero.net)
19. 11:09 PM - Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections (Dirk Slabbert)
20. 11:35 PM - Re: Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location (Peter Mather)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 8/16/04 2:34 AM, Peter Mather at peter@mather.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
>
> Where are you all putting the VOR/Glideslope antenna. Is it OK mounted on
> the Rudder even though it moves. Which model of antenna have you used?
>
> Many Thanks
>
> Peter
>
I built my own antenna and mounted it on top of the rudder. Movement doesn't
matter, the VOR antenna is non-directional.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Getting the paperwork in order.
do not archive.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Eli" <robert.eli@adelphia.net>
Max,
Did you determine that any dilution of pure alcohol produces the microscopic
water beads? Or is there some threshold level of water dilution that can be
tolerated. It certainly sounds undesirable to have those beads form in the
Cortec.
Bob Eli
CH701 - N701K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
max.johansson@nokia.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Eli
The denaturated alcohol I am using is rather concentrated
because it is an anti-freeze additive and not the window
washing fluid itself, which might very well contain undesirable
chemicals. If the water content rises you will see (use
a magnifying lens) hundreds of small beads forming around
any surface irregularities like the scratch marks from
the abrasive pads used to clean the aluminium surface.
If in doubt do comparison tests test with some more pure
alcohol in order to check the suitability of your dilutant.
The good news is that you made Cortec sort of approve
the use of alcohol by the home builder. Their S25 dilutant
is rather expensive and only comes in barrels of 20 litres.
Thank you !
best regards
Max - 701 builder in Helsinki
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Al Young" <armyret@one-eleven.net>
Lance- No but he did say to use stainless. Al Young
Do Not Archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Eggenfellner Subaru |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tom Faulkner" <tomtafcor@triton.net>
Rog: I am in the final stages of finishing an 801 with an Eggenfellner H6
Subaru engine. As far as I know, this will be the first H6 in an 801. Tom
Faulkner
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
After a summer off the list and some motivation from Oshkosh, here I am. I
test ran my self made Sub for the first time on Sat. THE GOOD: pressures
and temps seem good, cooling seems to work w/ or w/o the cowl installed,
sounds great! no leaks. THE BAD: cannot obtain full RPM,(seems to be a carb
problem)
Dissapointing and yet exciting!
Aaron Gustafson
601 HDTD plans 75% Sub
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Eggenfellner Subaru |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 8/16/2004 5:59:19 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
tomtafcor@triton.net writes:
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tom Faulkner" <tomtafcor@triton.net>
>
> Rog: I am in the final stages of finishing an 801 with an
> Eggenfellner H6
> Subaru engine. As far as I know, this will be the first H6 in an 801. Tom
> Faulkner
>
Haiko Eishler in Colorado has been flying behind one for a few months..
Ben Haas N801BH
Message 7
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| Subject: | Regarding crimped electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <george.pinneo@ngc.com>
Somewhere on a mountainside in NE Israel is a plaque in bronze from God. It says:
if you must crimp, you must also solder!
GGP
Message 8
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| Subject: | Regarding crimped electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
Baloney.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Waiting on the paperwork.
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
>
> Somewhere on a mountainside in NE Israel is a plaque in bronze from God. It
> says: if you must crimp, you must also solder!
>
> GGP
>
Baloney.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Waiting on the paperwork.
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Zenith-List message posted by: <GEORGE.PINNEO@NGC.COM>
Somewhere on a mountainside in NE Israel is a plaque in bronze from God. It
says: if you must crimp, you must also solder!
GGP
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Setback (epilog) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com>
Hi Carlos, I was talking with Mark Townsend this morning. We should have his second
spar done soon so if you aren't in too much of a hurry, and if you are coming
to the Alternative Engines seminar in Stratford, you could pick up the rivet
setter I made (the one shown in the CH601.org website) and use it. If you
could just bring it back to Al Etherington in Oshawa when you are done that would
be great. You may want to make your own but this is one solution.
David
do not archive
Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa
Well, there *is* hope!
Thanks to all that replied - I see other have walked the same road before and stumbled
on the same
stones...
Mark, I did drill all the spar on a drill press, so everything is square (homebuilt
square, not
space shuttle square).
I saw the rivet setter pictures on the CH601 site. Did you make or buy the rivet
cup? If you
bought it, what are the specs/part number, and where?
In my case, I made "dimple" on a steel bar with my Dremel tool.
When I put the rivets in place for setting, I kept them in place with masking tape,
which also
helps preventing scratches.
From the notes I read, I think the problem was caused by a light backup and/or
the fact that the
spar was free to move. Chris Boultinghouse used bags of sand (or something) to
stabilize the spar
during the process, and I had forgotten about that.
Once again, thanks to all that provide input (and moral support).
Carlos
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
Soldering a crimp is not a bad idea. If you crimp only, make sure that you
give the connection a good pull test. They have a nasty habit of pulling
loose.
Stripping the wire end is also critical. Do not nick the wire with the
stripper. It will easily break at the score mark even if you crimp and solder.
Dirk in Riverside, CA
Message 11
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| Subject: | Regarding crimped electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Is the bronze plaque soldered or crimped to the hillside? ;-)
..lance
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bryanmmartin@comcast.net
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Regarding crimped electrical connections
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
Baloney.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Waiting on the paperwork.
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
>
> Somewhere on a mountainside in NE Israel is a plaque in bronze from
> God. It
> says: if you must crimp, you must also solder!
>
> GGP
>
Baloney.
--
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Construction complete.
Waiting on the paperwork.
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Zenith-List message posted by: <GEORGE.PINNEO@NGC.COM>
Somewhere on a mountainside in NE Israel is a plaque in bronze from
God. It
says: if you must crimp, you must also solder!
GGP
==
==
==
==
Message 12
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| Subject: | Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Bob
Cannot tell exactly. Pure 96% gave the best result
and there were degrees between the various diluted
denaturated products I tried. The politur alcohol
used by furniture restorers, a very strong stuff,
also worked pretty good, in fact it worked slightly
better than the special washer anti-freeze finally
chosen for economical reasons. My best estimate
is that the anti freeze contains about 50% alcohol.
My advice is to get a sample of a strong alcohol
to have as a reference when testing candidate
denaturated products. The stuff you finally select
to use will only give a slightly worse result than
the reference and will dry in about 20 minutes.
The good thing is that completely unsuitable
dilutants immediately show up in the mixing phase
and the too watery products will form small beads
around scratch marks and will take hours to dry.
In hindsight I regret I never tried various
strenght vodka samples, strong vodka might
be an exellent dilutant for Cortec and the
water content is indicated on the label...
best regards
Max
RE message posted by: "Robert Eli" <robert.eli@adelphia.net>
>
> Max,
>
> Did you determine that any dilution of pure alcohol
> produces the microscopic water beads? Or is there some
> threshold level of water dilution that can be tolerated.
> It certainly sounds undesirable to have those beads form
> in the Cortec.
>
> Bob Eli
> CH701 - N701K
><
> The denaturated alcohol I am using is rather concentrated
> because it is an anti-freeze additive and not the window
> washing fluid itself, which might very well contain undesirable
> chemicals. If the water content rises you will see (use
> a magnifying lens) hundreds of small beads forming around
> any surface irregularities like the scratch marks from
> the abrasive pads used to clean the aluminium surface.
> If in doubt do comparison tests test with some more pure
> alcohol in order to check the suitability of your dilutant.
>
> The good news is that you made Cortec sort of approve
> the use of alcohol by the home builder. Their S25 dilutant
> is rather expensive and only comes in barrels of 20 litres.
><
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
Re soldering..
Problem is that when you solder, depending on how hot you get the wire, the
solder will track back down the wire in under the insulation for some
distance. Multi-strand wire becomes single strand wire. Would you wire up
your a/c with single strand wire?
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Alcohol Thinning of Cortec VpCI-373 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
Strong vodka would probably work. But there are better uses for it. I found
that denatured alcohol in the gallon cans from Menards works great. I also
use it in the alcohol burners on my boat. Burns clean, etc.
Cortec is, in my opinion, a great substitute for zinc chromate. No fumes,
relatively easy cleanup (although it sticks pretty good on skin, it will come
off with soap and water). I was able to use it indoors during the winter...and
that was a great plus! I hope that years from now, we will all be glad we
used it.
Dave
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "KEITH B SHOAPS" <kshoaps@verizon.net>
Where can I find quarts or gallons of Cortec 373. How much is needed for a 701?
thanks
keith
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cortec source |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
The Zenith factory sells quarts - I believe mine cost around $25. Can't say
how much is necessary, but it goes on very thin and goes a long way. It
also depends on whether you are just coating the mating surfaces such as
where the skin touches the rib flange or the entire interior surface
including the inside of the skin. Robert Schoenberger 701 - 40%
----- Original Message -----
From: "KEITH B SHOAPS" <kshoaps@verizon.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Cortec source
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "KEITH B SHOAPS" <kshoaps@verizon.net>
>
> Where can I find quarts or gallons of Cortec 373. How much is needed for
a 701?
>
> thanks
> keith
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Notes from Rotax 912 and 912S basic Engin Maintenance at |
OSH (LONG)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "royt.or@netzero.net" <royt.or@netzero.net>
I attended the 7/28/04 8:30am "Rotax 912 and 912S Basic Engine
Maintenance" forum. Here are the notes I took from the session.
Eric Tucker, works for Kodiak Research, the Rotax Importer for the US.
http://www.kodiakbs.com/. They sell engines to Lockwood Aviation Supply, California Power Systems etc. Eric was shown as the presenter in the program, but in fact he was backup for Phil Lockwood.
Phil Lockwood did most of the presentation. He is the owner/manager of
Lockwood Aviation Supply.
The presentation applied to all Rotax four stroke engines. 912, 912S,
914, certified and non certified versions. I'll use 91x to indicate all
these engines in the following notes.
Through out the presentation, both Phil and Eric stressed that the 91x
family of engines, once running, will get you to your destination. They
may self destruct in the process. Loss of all the coolant will result in overheating;
engine would keep running, but will likely warp the heads. They implied
the engines would run without oil for a long time - again, the engine may not
restart after this abuse. I believe there were other examples that I did not
write down.
Oil discussion:
- Recommend maximum 50 hour oil change. This is more frequent than the
manual states for some conditions.
- Pre-oil the new oil filter when doing an oil change. (That is fill the filter
with new oil before installing it on the engine. Some discussion about mess followed,
and Eric said to at least fill the new filter half way with oil, then
it could be installed without pouring the oil out.)
- When installing the filter, max three quarter turn after rubber gasket makes
contact with the engine case. DO NOT turn filter until the filter touches the
case.
- Oil formulations have been changing during the last several years. The newer
oils foam more. This can cause problems in the 91x family.
- The oil dipstick change was because of the foaming.
- Recommend keeping the oil tank near the top of the range.
- Proper way to check oil is to rotate the prop in the normal direction
until the oil tank gurgles. Then check the level in the tank.
- DO NOT rotate the prop backwards. This can pull oil out of the engine. A few
degrees of backward rotation is not a problem. A full rotation of the prop could
be a problem.
- When changing the oil, just remove the oil tank drain plug to empty
the oil tank and change the oil filter. DO NOT try to get ALL the oil
out. Some customers who have had oil related problems have rotated the
prop backwards to pump the oil out of the engine during their oil
changes.
- Need to use motorcycle type oil because the 91x family shares the
crankcase oil with the gearbox oil - like most motorcycles. This oil has additives
to protect the gears.
- Castrol GPS and Motul have been REMOVED from the recommend list
because of foaming.
- Penzoil motorcycle oil is OK to use
- Any semi synthetic motorcycle oil is OK to use.
- Honda motorcycle oil will not be listed as OK to use because Honda is
possible competitor, but the Honda motorcycle oil is OK to use.
- California Power Systems AV-9 showed some foaming in testing and is
currently being reformulated.
- DO NOT use pure synthetic oil when using 100LL fuel. Pure synthetic will not
hold the lead in suspension properly.
Cooling discussion:
- Recommend CHT operation in 180F to 240F range. Also recommend max of
125C which is higher than 240F.
- It is normal for EGT and CHT to be different on each side.
- No real value to having EGT.
- IF the center of the CHT sensors supplied with the engine are gone,
then the engine has been TOO HOT. The center of the sensor has melted.
- There is a new higher pressure radiator cap available. Eric did not
seem to enthusiastic about it. Typically raises the temperature before
releasing pressure about 10C.
- Use phosphate free coolant.
- Use silicate free coolant.
- Dexcool coolant works well.
- Don't mix green and orange coolant. Flush system if changing.
- Recommended minimum of 50% coolant (with remainder being distilled
water).
- If having trouble with coolant/distilled water boiling, may need to
move to highest recommend concentration of coolant as recommended by
coolant manufacture.
- If still having trouble with coolant/distilled water boiling, using Evans coolant
is OK. Evans coolant does not use water and runs without a pressurized cap.
Fuel:
- If flying over 12,000ft, recommended using avgas to avoid vapor locking.
Carburetors:
- Keep the carbs synchronized. Check every 100 hours. Check at idle and
just off idle.
- Recommend 1800 rpm as minimum idle speed to maximize gearbox life.
- Recommend overhauling the carbs every 600 hours.
- Choke (enricher) only works with the throttle fully closed.
- Recommended running 2200-2400 RPM just after start until engine will
idle smoothly below this speed.
Gearbox discussion:
- Recommend 912S engines be upgraded to the slipper clutch. There is
increased possibility of kickback with the slipper clutch. Therefore,
this also requires the upgraded starter at the same time. There is a
reduced cost upgrade program available.
- Recommended having gear box serviced every 300 hours of operation for
912S without the slipper clutch (over run clutch).
- There was a recommendation to check the gearbox play every 100 (?) hours of operation.
The discussion followed what is in the manual. This is for engines which
do not have the slipper clutch. Sorry, I'm not sure of the frequency that
was recommended.
- Would not try to hand prop a Rotax 912S. Much higher compression than
the 912 or the 914.
There was a discussion about the service bulletins. Basically, there are bulletins
because the factory continues to develop the engines. The
development is the result of customer/user feedback. Service bulletins
are only required for certified versions of the engines in certified
planes. The service bulletins are a good idea for the non certified
engines.
I hope some of you find this posting useful.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped,
270hrs, 338 landings
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "royt.or@netzero.net" <royt.or@netzero.net>
> Where are you all putting the VOR/Glideslope antenna. Is it OK mounted on
> the Rudder even though it moves. Which model of antenna have you used?
>
> Many Thanks
>
> Peter
>
N601RT has it's VOR/Glideslope antenna on the bottom of the fusealage, just forward
of the 'box' in the rear. LOTS of RV's have have their VOR/Glideslope antennas
in this location.
Email me if you would like me to take a picture and send it to you.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped, 270hrs,
338 landings
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Regarding crimped electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dirk Slabbert" <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
Slip a piece of shrink wrap over the wire beforehand, then solder, shift the wrap
back, then shrink with a lighter or match.
Makes a proper connection, the shrink wrap also limits vibration.
Dirk in Piketberg SA.
----- Original Message -----
From: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Regarding crimped electrical connections
--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
Soldering a crimp is not a bad idea. If you crimp only, make sure that you
give the connection a good pull test. They have a nasty habit of pulling
loose.
Stripping the wire end is also critical. Do not nick the wire with the
stripper. It will easily break at the score mark even if you crimp and solder.
Dirk in Riverside, CA
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
Many thanks to all who answered
Best Regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: <royt.or@netzero.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: VOR/Glideslope antenna location
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "royt.or@netzero.net"
<royt.or@netzero.net>
>
>
> > Where are you all putting the VOR/Glideslope antenna. Is it OK mounted
on
> > the Rudder even though it moves. Which model of antenna have you used?
> >
> > Many Thanks
> >
> > Peter
> >
>
> N601RT has it's VOR/Glideslope antenna on the bottom of the fusealage,
just forward of the 'box' in the rear. LOTS of RV's have have their
VOR/Glideslope antennas in this location.
>
> Email me if you would like me to take a picture and send it to you.
>
> Regards,
>
> Roy
>
> N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped,
270hrs, 338 landings
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