Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:13 AM - runway maintenance (lufthund)
2. 02:33 AM - Wire terminals (howado)
3. 08:08 AM - Re: Pitot tube - 701 (Chuck Deiterich)
4. 08:35 AM - Re: runway maintenance (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 09:26 AM - prop (Leo J. Corbalis)
6. 10:09 AM - Re: runway maintenance (Rmtnview@aol.com)
7. 11:56 AM - 701 Flipping Wing Over (Robert Schoenberger)
8. 02:12 PM - Re: Wire terminals (George Swinford)
9. 02:39 PM - Re: Wire terminals (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
10. 03:01 PM - Re: Wire terminals (Lance Gingell)
11. 03:33 PM - Re: runway maintenance (Jeff Small)
12. 03:53 PM - Re: Wire terminals (Jon Croke)
13. 04:00 PM - Re: Wire terminals (Brandon Tucker)
14. 04:02 PM - Re: runway maintenance (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
15. 04:25 PM - Matco Brakes (Andrew SanClemente)
16. 04:27 PM - Terminal Crimp Tools (howado)
17. 04:59 PM - syncronize carbs (Leo J. Corbalis)
18. 04:59 PM - crimping tool (George Swinford)
19. 05:02 PM - Adv. - Surplus Aircraft Tools from BrownTool - Adv. (BrownTool@aol.com)
20. 05:06 PM - Re: Wire terminals (Robert Schoenberger)
21. 05:29 PM - Re: Matco Brakes (Ray Montagne)
22. 06:27 PM - Fuel level attachment? (Trevor Page)
23. 08:56 PM - Re: Matco Brakes (Dave Alberti)
24. 09:02 PM - Re: Wire terminals (Winston Ellis)
25. 09:04 PM - Re: Fuel level attachment? (George Swinford)
26. 09:07 PM - Re: Matco Brakes (Benford2@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | runway maintenance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lufthund" <lufthund@enter.net>
Any one have any comments good or bad on the 20 to 30 hp diesel tractors
offered by Northern Hydraulics? My 1939 9N Ford is due for retirement and I
need something to mow the my runway.
Bob Wetzel 801 HD
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
Anyone interested in wire terminations should look at the AC43.13-1B
Advisory Circular, section 11-78. "The crimp on terminal lugs and
splices must be installed using a high quality ratchet-type crimping
tool." Nothing said about soldering the wires or lugs. Lots of other
info of use to homebuilders who want to pass inspection.
Howard Carter CH701 15%
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube - 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Larry,
In my last post I failed to mention that I drilled and tapped (6-32) a 1/8"
aluminum plate that I riveted (counter sunk) on top of a .040 aluminum 4"x4"
doubler which was then riveted to the inside of the bottom skin. Obviously
the counter sunk rivet heads are next to the wing skin. The mounting base
of the pitot tube is then screwed to the nut plate and the tubing to the
airspeed is secured with a twisted wire loop.
Now for your question: The pitot tube does not extend in front of the slat.
The pitot tube is 3-7/8" below the wing and the opening is 1-1/2" behind the
leading edge of the wing (not the slat). I have checked the airspeed at 70
mph with my GPS and it seems to be right on. I have flown it slow but have
not really done a good check, it looked reasonable. I believe the air flow
under the wing is fairly smooth at cruise and probably also at higher angles
of attack. At higher angles of attack the air is funneled through the slat
but the flow under the wing should still be somewhat smooth. At Oshkosh I
asked Chris H. if at cruise, the air flow over the slat and wing would be
like the slat was a continuous part of the wing. His answer was YES. Note
the bottoms of the wing and slat are even.
Chuck D.
N701TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "LRM" <lrm@isp.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pitot tube - 701
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "LRM" <lrm@isp.com>
>
> Hey Chuck, I asked this question once before, but did not get an answer.
> How far does the pitot tube extent in front of the slat?
> I am using a Dynon EFIS with their pitot tube, has sensors in it. I don't
> have it yet, back ordered. I will have to build some kind of bracket.
> Dynon says they don't know how far to put it, but they think the slats
will
> interfere. I don't know for sure what the guy said, he was some kind of,
> well he didn't speak southern, and I don't understand broken Yankee. And,
> got tired of saying, "what?, or say that again".
> If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it. Larry N1345L
Message 4
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| Subject: | runway maintenance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
A little off topic so I'll keep it short.
The new tractors are probably either Bransons or a chines knock off. I
have heard they are OK but nowehere near as good as a good used Yanmar,
which is the premier grey market import.
Email me at frank.hinde@hp.com for Yanmar info as I have a very nice one
and NO its not for sale...:)
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lufthund
Subject: Zenith-List: runway maintenance
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lufthund" <lufthund@enter.net>
Any one have any comments good or bad on the 20 to 30 hp diesel tractors
offered by Northern Hydraulics? My 1939 9N Ford is due for retirement
and I
need something to mow the my runway.
Bob Wetzel 801 HD
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I finally got my Woodcomp prop back and installed. Thank Heaven!! Now if I can
figure a way to pressurize the cockpit, I'll be able to try for the X PRIZE with
my Zodie Rocket ! LOOK OUT BURT !
They fixed my prop and then shut the factory for a summer vacation. Everybody
was gone ! I was frustrated just a little bit.
I had planned to gather some data to compare the Woodcomp to the GSC prop that
is standard with the kit.
Instead I had to chase down the gradual loss of power caused by breaking of the
stranded wire feeding power to the ignition modules which I described already.
Then the other module had the same problem and that took a while to recognize,
you can sense that all is not quite right but can't identify the problem until
it gets pretty bad. I bought the cheap mercury gage from Bing to syncronize
the carbs. Being out of sync is much more noticeable below 4000 rpm. I got rid
of rough running between 2400 and 3400 rpm, both on the ground and in the air.
At WOT or close to it the throttle plate position is not as sensitive as it
is at 2-3000 rpm.
Leo Corbalis
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: runway maintenance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com
Yanmar now makes all John Deere tractors from about 40 HP down. In Japan.
The bigger JD's are still made in the USA the last I heard. I have a Kabota, am
very happy with it. A thousand or two less than a comparably equipped JD. rog
Message 7
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| Subject: | 701 Flipping Wing Over |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
List . . . sometime in the next couple of days I'm going to rivet the bottom skins
to the left wing skeleton and flip it over. The photo manual says to leave
the nose skin off until after it's flipped, and then to rivet it on and let
it hang out. The manual gives instructions on leaving it off and then drilling
from the inside etc.
for the first wing, I riveted it on at the bottom flange of the spar and bottom
flanges of the nose ribs, and I then strapped it around the nose. It wasn't
the easiest thing to get turned over. I finally stuck 5" or 6" dia pvc pipe
in the lightening holes from either end for the entire length and used these
to hoist it up and over. Riveting a loose nose skin to the bottom per ZAC instructions
after it's flipped doesn't sound too easy either.
Does anyone have a special technique? It isn't heavy, but it surely is awkward.
Thx. for sharing. Robert Schoenberger 701 - 40%
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Any recommendations on where to get such a tool?
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "howado" <howado@cwia.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
>
> Anyone interested in wire terminations should look at the AC43.13-1B
> Advisory Circular, section 11-78. "The crimp on terminal lugs and
> splices must be installed using a high quality ratchet-type crimping
> tool." Nothing said about soldering the wires or lugs. Lots of other
> info of use to homebuilders who want to pass inspection.
> Howard Carter CH701 15%
>
>
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I couldn't tell you where to get one as I aquired mine several years
(and a continent) ago. What I can tell you is you will never use a
cheapo crimper again after using a ratchet type, they are superb!
I made all my connections on the 601 5 years ago and I have not had a
single issue with any connection I made.
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George
Swinford
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
--> <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Any recommendations on where to get such a tool?
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "howado" <howado@cwia.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
>
> Anyone interested in wire terminations should look at the AC43.13-1B
> Advisory Circular, section 11-78. "The crimp on terminal lugs and
> splices must be installed using a high quality ratchet-type crimping
> tool." Nothing said about soldering the wires or lugs. Lots of other
> info of use to homebuilders who want to pass inspection. Howard Carter
> CH701 15%
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
I actually got a non-racheting, but official AMP Super Champ IV tool
from AircraftSpruce.com recently for about $15. It has trapeziod crimps.
Works very well:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/crimptool.php
Here's the brochure/user guide:
http://tooling.tycoelectronics.com/yahoo-pdf/8617.pdf
..lance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George
Swinford
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford"
--> <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Any recommendations on where to get such a tool?
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "howado" <howado@cwia.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
>
> Anyone interested in wire terminations should look at the AC43.13-1B
> Advisory Circular, section 11-78. "The crimp on terminal lugs and
> splices must be installed using a high quality ratchet-type crimping
> tool." Nothing said about soldering the wires or lugs. Lots of other
> info of use to homebuilders who want to pass inspection.
> Howard Carter CH701 15%
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: runway maintenance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
My 1939 9N Ford is due for retirement
and I need something to mow the my runway.
Bob, buy a Kubota, you'll never be disappointed.
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
I've had good luck with 2 vendors for these crimpers and other electrical
supplies:
http://bandc.biz
and
http://terminaltown.com
Jon
www.ch701.com
>
> I couldn't tell you where to get one as I aquired mine several years
> (and a continent) ago. What I can tell you is you will never use a
> cheapo crimper again after using a ratchet type, they are superb!
>
> I made all my connections on the 601 5 years ago and I have not had a
> single issue with any connection I made.
>
> Frank
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
George,
To see a comparison on a very expensive crimping
tool to a relatively inexpensive ratcheting crimp
tool, click on the link below to an article by Bob
Nuckolls.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
If you go to www.aeroelectric.com and click on
"Tools and Materials From B&C Specialty Products" and
click on "RCT-1 - PIDG Style Crimp Tool," you can
get the one from the article. I bought it for $40 off
the B&C website. I really like mine, and they ship
them pretty fast.
Harbor Freight has a ratcheting crimp tool that
looks pretty good as well, although I have no
experience with it. Might be worth checking out for
$17. Here is the link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90705
Respectfully,
Brandon Tucker
_______________________________
Message 14
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| Subject: | runway maintenance |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I would be dissappointed when I realized I could have got the same
machine for half the money buy buying a nearly new Yanmar....Guess what
I plow with....:)
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Small
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: runway maintenance
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff@msn.com>
My 1939 9N Ford is due for retirement
and I need something to mow the my runway.
Bob, buy a Kubota, you'll never be disappointed.
do not archive
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Andrew SanClemente <duck@townisp.com>
I have a question on the Matco Brake Cylinders. I was getting some
fluid on the top of my cylinder so I assumed it was bad. I ordered a
new one which came with a bleeder screw made of nylon. The screw had
a hole drilled down the middle, my older cylinders have a solid
bleeder screw.
I installed the new cylinder and used my old solid bleeder screw and
I am still getting fluid coming out around the shaft. Has anyone else
experienced this or know whats going on?
Thanks for the help!
-Andy
I have a question on the Matco Brake Cylinders. I was getting some fluid on the
top of my cylinder so I assumed it was bad. I ordered a new one which came with
a bleeder screw made of nylon. The screw had a hole drilled down the middle,
my older cylinders have a solid bleeder screw.
I installed the new cylinder and used my old solid bleeder screw and I am still
getting fluid coming out around the shaft. Has anyone else experienced this
or know whats going on?
Thanks for the help!
-Andy
Message 16
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| Subject: | Terminal Crimp Tools |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
George,
the AMP tools are sold by DigiKey. They are stocked as uncalibrated,
so if you order from them ask for a calibrated tool which they will
then have to order from AMP (Tyco). For advice on tools from AMP talk
to their tool specialists at 800-722-1111. By the way, each wire size
range of terminal takes a different tool.
Howard Carter
Message 17
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| Subject: | syncronize carbs |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
Bing carbs at 1-800-309-2464 has the carb sync, imported for (old price) $34.95.
The actual numbers on the scale don't matter. Just get both columns of mercury
real close.
Make 4 storage caps for the gauge by heating one end of a 2 inch piece of plastic
tube andd pinch it shut with pliers. Rub a trace of vaseline on the gauge
tubes to make it easy to get the plastic tubes on and off. DO NOT REMOVE THE
UNUSED TUBES. MERCURY WILL FLY EVERYWHERE IF YOU BUMP THE UNIT !!!
ALWAYS, USING, MOVING and STORING. KEEP IT UP UP UP.
Push the 4 small white ? plastic pieces with the small hole thru them into
each end of the long plastic tubes, about 2 inches. These will help to keep the
mercury where it belongs.
Just remove the screw next to the idle screw. Force the plastic tube over the
brass part. A little spit(that stuff in your mouth)helps. I use a small strips
of duct tape to secure the plastic tubes to whatever. Don't let them touch
the hot exhaust. connect to the 2 middle tubes in the gauge. I also use duct
tape to mount the gauge, make the top strip very narrow because the mercury columns
are very close to the upper tape. You can run the engine up with a front
opening canopy unlatched OK. Side opening is your problem.
I changed my throttle linkage by adding 2 more tubes to the crosstube directly
behind each throttle arm. I used 3/16 trreaded rods to the throttle arm with
ball joints on the ends. I changed the stock full open spring to full length
springs to get lower force on the Vernier throttle knob that I installed on
the left. With the stock springs, barely touch the button on the end of the throttle
and you get to taxi at 5600 rpm. Exciting! I use the left carb as the master
to set the idle. Nasty suprise, the cross tube twists between the new tubes.
The right tube must be longer than the left, depending on how strong the
full open springs are. This is cut and file. test and re test. This is most apparent
at low rpm. At WOT a small angular differience between throttle plates
wil make practically no differience on the mercurry columns.
I hope you find this useful.
Best
Leo Corbalis
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Thanks to everyone who replied to my inquiry on crimping tools.
George
Message 19
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| Subject: | Adv. - Surplus Aircraft Tools from BrownTool - Adv. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: BrownTool@aol.com
This is an ADVERTISEMENT - DO NOT ARCHIVE
Just a quick message to let all of our Kit Aircraft customers know we have
just received a large shipment of surplus aircraft tools from a major airframe
manufacturer including: 90 Degree Threaded Drill Motors, Sealant Guns, and
Drill Attachments - complete descriptions, pictures, and pricing are available
on
our website at: http://www.browntool.com/
This is a great opportunity to purchase high quality, industrial grade
aircraft tools at a fraction of their new cost.
We are also featuring our brand new Hi-Force Pneumatic "C" Rivet Squeezer
complete with 1-1/2" Jaw for only $479.95
Thanks !
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
3801 S. Meridian Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119
1-800-587-3883
405-688-6888
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
George . . . I just ordered a RCT-1 PIDG style crimper from these folks:
http://aeroelectric.com/ . Try their web site. Robert Schoenberger
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
>
> Any recommendations on where to get such a tool?
>
> George
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "howado" <howado@cwia.com>
> To: "Zenith-List" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
>>
>> Anyone interested in wire terminations should look at the AC43.13-1B
>> Advisory Circular, section 11-78. "The crimp on terminal lugs and
>> splices must be installed using a high quality ratchet-type crimping
>> tool." Nothing said about soldering the wires or lugs. Lots of other
>> info of use to homebuilders who want to pass inspection.
>> Howard Carter CH701 15%
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ray Montagne <ac6qj@earthlink.net>
On 8/24/04 4:25 PM, "Andrew SanClemente" <duck@townisp.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Andrew SanClemente <duck@townisp.com>
>
> I have a question on the Matco Brake Cylinders. I was getting some
> fluid on the top of my cylinder so I assumed it was bad. I ordered a
> new one which came with a bleeder screw made of nylon. The screw had
> a hole drilled down the middle, my older cylinders have a solid
> bleeder screw.
> I installed the new cylinder and used my old solid bleeder screw and
> I am still getting fluid coming out around the shaft. Has anyone else
> experienced this or know whats going on?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> -Andy
>
My brother warned me about this. He fabricated extension tubes for the
vents at the top of the cylinders and curled the tubes in a complete circle
so that the physical height of the vent tube extension is limited
(approximately 1.5 inches in diameter if I remember correctly from the last
time I looked at his plane). I haven't made this modification myself - yet
- but plan to do so. I know that he has no mess in the cockpit and never
has....
If you'd like, I can get more detailed instructions. Please advise...
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Best Regards, Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
===========================================================================
Zenith Aircraft Zodiac CH-601-XL
Build Status: Rudder completed
Elevator Completed
Stabilizer Completed
Flaps Completed
Ailerons Completed
Right Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Left Wing Completed
Right Wing Tip Completed
Fuselage Under Construction
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Fuel level attachment? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
In my HD plans it shows a bent rod going to the header tank cutoff
valve. I'm at the point to making a console from the front of the stick
box to the instrument panel and I'm wondering how does one attach said
rod to the valve handle?
Thanks
Trevor Page
93.5% complete 601 HD
Message 23
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Alberti" <daberti@execpc.com>
Check the MATCO website; if you are getting fluid on top you have too much
in the reservoirs. I just kept wicking it up with paper towels until it
stopped coming out. It's been fine now.
I have a question on the Matco Brake Cylinders. I was getting some
fluid on the top of my cylinder so I assumed it was bad. I ordered a
new one which came with a bleeder screw made of nylon. The screw had
a hole drilled down the middle, my older cylinders have a solid
bleeder screw.
I installed the new cylinder and used my old solid bleeder screw and
I am still getting fluid coming out around the shaft. Has anyone else
experienced this or know whats going on?
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Winston Ellis <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
Also try http://www.steinair.com/
Fast service and good prices, especially on wire etc.
Winston Ellis
CH701/Suzuki
George Swinford wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
>
> Any recommendations on where to get such a tool?
>
> George
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "howado" <howado@cwia.com>
> To: "Zenith-List" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Wire terminals
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: howado <howado@cwia.com>
> >
> > Anyone interested in wire terminations should look at the AC43.13-1B
> > Advisory Circular, section 11-78. "The crimp on terminal lugs and
> > splices must be installed using a high quality ratchet-type crimping
> > tool." Nothing said about soldering the wires or lugs. Lots of other
> > info of use to homebuilders who want to pass inspection.
> > Howard Carter CH701 15%
> >
> >
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel level attachment? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Trevor:
I used a tube rather than a rod. I connected it to the shaft of the valve
with a small universal joint purchased from Reid Tool. I drilled the
u-joint, valve shaft and tubing for small rollpins, also from Reid Tool. I
made a handle from a piece of scrap aluminum plate, 0.180 thick as I
remember, and pinned it to the upper end of the tube. With the u-joint,
alignment of the shaft(tube) isn't critical at all.
My console has a horizontal section about 5 inches long then angles up
rather steeply to meet the panel.
I hope this gives you some ideas.
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trevor Page" <webmaster@upac.ca>
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel level attachment?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
>
> In my HD plans it shows a bent rod going to the header tank cutoff
> valve. I'm at the point to making a console from the front of the stick
> box to the instrument panel and I'm wondering how does one attach said
> rod to the valve handle?
>
> Thanks
>
> Trevor Page
> 93.5% complete 601 HD
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 8/24/2004 9:56:53 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
daberti@execpc.com writes:
>
> Check the MATCO website; if you are getting fluid on top you have too much
> in the reservoirs. I just kept wicking it up with paper towels until it
> stopped coming out. It's been fine now.
>
>
My 801 did the same thing, not any drips on the cabin floor but it did have a
trace on the top of the reservoirs for the first 10 hours, then it stopped.
The brakes work good too, If it has been raining or snowing the tires stay
locked up on run up, they just slide on the pavement, probably should not have
but
that big Ford V-8 in the poor thing. Still it is a real KOOL toy to have and
fly.
Ben Haas N801BH
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