Zenith-List Digest Archive

Wed 09/01/04


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:48 AM - Re: Filling dents (Larry McFarland)
     2. 06:34 AM - Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
     3. 10:12 AM - Tail Light (nick pace)
     4. 10:32 AM - Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps (caspainhower@aep.com)
     5. 11:34 AM - Re: Woodcomp (Leo J. Corbalis)
     6. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
     7. 03:32 PM - some N633Z photos (xl)
     8. 06:59 PM - Inflight adjustable Props (Norm Turner)
     9. 09:47 PM - Scratch building, sharing forms, templates, etc... (Todd Osborne)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:48:45 AM PST US
    From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
    Subject: Re: Filling dents
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> Larry, You're right about shrinkage. The stuff needs to be very dry to sand it and avoid seeing it. Mine's still solid but an epoxy mix with fillers might be better, especially if the dinks were deeper. Getting a filler that sands evenly and more readily than aluminum is the reason I used the lacquer, but an epoxy has more grip in any case. Larry N601EZ Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "LRM" <lrm@isp.com> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling dents > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "LRM" <lrm@isp.com> > > Hey Larry, no offense, but, have you looked closely at your fix? It's been > my experience, (I built show cars for thirty years before I got into this > airplane stuff), that lacquer based fillers all shrink after a while. It > may still be there, but if you look close, you see might see it. > I haven't used a lacquer based filler for some time, maybe they fixed the > problem. > > I've got so much fiberglass stuff around I usually fix dents with resin and > glass bubbles or Cabosil. Glass bubbles are hollow glass microspheres that > can be added to epoxies and polyesters to fill surface imperfections and > allow for easy sanding. Cabosil is a thickening agent, but is pretty hard > to sand. I think Aircraft Spruce has both. > Your surface must be very clean, use acid wash on new aluminum, then sand. > Clean old with acetone and sand it. If you don't prepare you surface right, > it doesn't matter what you use, it will generally pop after a while. > > On the other hand, if you just got one or two little dents, clean them and > use JB Weld, it sands good the next day. You might have to put on two > coats. > > Larry N1345L > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> > To: <zenith-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling dents > > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" > <larrymc@qconline.com> > > > > Bill, > > I had a dink on the wing half the depth and the area of a dime that > > was scotch brited and applied directly to the aluminum with a playing > > card. USC laquer body putty #32035 from a tube. About the consistency > > of a heavy tooth paste. It's still there 3-years later. > > I think this stuff would work for you. > > > > Larry McFarland -601HDS > > > > Do not archive > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net> > > To: <zenith-list@matronics.com> > > Subject: Zenith-List: Filling dents > > > > > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net> > > > > > > I am interested in painting some trim on my HDS. The area I want to > paint > > has some small dents in the aluminum skin. > > > > > > - What is the best filler material to fill small dents prior to > painting? > > > > > > - What needs to be done to the aluminum before filling to ensure the > > filler will stay in place? > > > > > > Regards, > > > Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 368.9 > > flight hrs. - 491 landings, (1 ON ICE!!) > > > web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/ > > > > > > | > > > ---=( )=--- > > > 0 0 > > > > > > > > > > --- > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:34:51 AM PST US
    From: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net The plans call for an aluminum fairing under the fuselage that covers the step cross bar and two small aluminum fairings that cover the step legs. Welding steel fairings to the step treads might reduce the drag a slight bit more. As for the area around the landing gear, in the air, the horizontal part of the gear spring should fit flush with the bottom of the fuselage and not need to be faired. I suppose the attachment brackets could be faired in, it depends on how much additional work you are willing to do to gain a small amount of drag reduction. -- N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru. Construction complete. Waiting on the inspection. do not archive -------------- Original message -------------- > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona" > > Looking at some parts the other day I realized the steps seem like the would > be fairly "dragy". What's the opinion of the group to welding on some > fairing shaped steel tube to the step and the step strut? > > I've also considered fairing the area below the fuselage where the gear > attach. Opinions? > > GigG > > > > > > The plans call for an aluminum fairing under the fuselage that covers the step cross bar and two small aluminum fairingsthat cover the step legs. Welding steel fairings to the step treads might reduce the drag a slight bit more. As for the area around the landing gear, in the air, the horizontal part of the gear spring should fit flush withthe bottom of the fuselage and not need to be faired. I suppose the attachment brackets could be faired in, it depends on how much additional work you are willing to do to gain a small amount of drag reduction. -- N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru. Construction complete. Waiting on the inspection. do not archive -------------- Original message -------------- -- Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona" <WR.GIACONA@COX-INTERNET.COM> Looking at some parts the other day I realized the steps seem like the would be fairly "dragy". What's the opinion of the group to welding on some fairing shaped steel tube to the step and the step strut? I've also considered fairing the area below the fuselage where the gear attach. Opinions? GigG ==========================================================


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:12:35 AM PST US
    From: nick pace <asknickp@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Tail Light
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: nick pace <asknickp@yahoo.com> I saw a realy neat tailight somewhere on a web site not to long ago.It was pressed or formed into the trailing edge of the rudder.It was formed out of sheet aluminum and I belive it was a shaped block of wood that was used as the form. The wood had a bulge in it that formed the bubble that the light sat in.If anyone knows where it is posted please let me know.If not thanks anyway. ===== A Fellow Aviator and 601XL Builder-Corvair Powered {just started} Nick Pace Harpers Ferry WV Getting Ready For My Checkride _______________________________


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:32:50 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps
    From: caspainhower@aep.com
    |July 24, 2002) at 09/01/2004 01:29:35 PM --> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com I noticed on the recently completed XL that showed up at Zenith Open Hanger Day (I don't remember the builders name) that it had a fairing over the support going down to the step and on the support underneath connecting the steps. I asked about it and he said it came with the kit. I haven't checked to see if it was included in my kit. A fairing where the gear meets the fuse may also help cut drag. I am considering not installing the step and keeping a small plastic stepstool in the plane for my short legged friends. (the question is how they will get to it to use it). Craig S. N601XS, 601XL >Looking at some parts the other day I realized the steps seem like the would >be fairly "dragy". What's the opinion of the group to welding on some >fairing shaped steel tube to the step and the step strut? >I've also considered fairing the area below the fuselage where the gear >attach. Opinions? This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:34:15 AM PST US
    From: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Woodcomp
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net> No. I do know from experience that the factory presets the flat pitch stop to a nominal match to your engine HP. The first one was set for a 912S and I couldn't even get 5500 rpm WOT above 2000 ft. This was bought thru a dealer. When I had severe vibration when the bearing in the hub went bad I just checked the slop in pitch, 2 degrees,in one blade with the prop on the plane. I have a simple jig that uses a keyring laser pointer epoxied on to give very accurate and repeatable measurements but it is not calibrated to an actual standard. I built it to set my GSC 3 blade prop. See Zenair News #112. Since there are a lot of curved surfaces involved, I'd have to have the factory calibrate it for me. This would be a total waste of time as each plane and pilot will have a specific optimal setting to be found by trial and error. Make the plank close to paralell with the back of the prop. Shine the laser on the wall for relative measurements. Leo Corbalis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Woodcomp > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> > > Leo, > Do you know the range of pitch that's provided by the Woodcomp > inflight adjustable? > > Larry McFarland 601HDS > Do not archive > > Subject: Zenith-List: Woodcomp > > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" > <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net> > > > > Bill Canino at sportair-usa.com in Little Rock Arkansas is now an official > Woodcomp dealer and equally important a repair station. > > > > Leo Corbalis > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:36:09 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps
    From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com> Firget it it ain't gonna work in the real world.....fit the step! The (HDS at least) is such a draggy airplane I bet you coulnd't measure difference in drag with vs without. Frank -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of caspainhower@aep.com Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Fairing the 601XL Steps --> Zenith-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com I noticed on the recently completed XL that showed up at Zenith Open Hanger Day (I don't remember the builders name) that it had a fairing over the support going down to the step and on the support underneath connecting the steps. I asked about it and he said it came with the kit. I haven't checked to see if it was included in my kit. A fairing where the gear meets the fuse may also help cut drag. I am considering not installing the step and keeping a small plastic stepstool in the plane for my short legged friends. (the question is how they will get to it to use it). Craig S. N601XS, 601XL >Looking at some parts the other day I realized the steps seem like the would >be fairly "dragy". What's the opinion of the group to welding on some >fairing shaped steel tube to the step and the step strut? >I've also considered fairing the area below the fuselage where the gear >attach. Opinions? This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. == direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. == == ==


    Message 7


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    Time: 03:32:13 PM PST US
    From: xl <xl@prosody.org>
    Subject: some N633Z photos
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org> Hello again all, I've posted a set of photos at: http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/ There are large (~700k) and small photos (~70k for faster downloading) of: - N633Z at the EAA tent at the Arlington Airshow! - the stock muffler (I did suspend the tailpipes on the second one, it still failed in 10 hours) - the busted stock muffler - the straight pipes that I made it home on (after my CO detector saved me) - the homemade 'swedish' mufflers that I installed last week (they weigh about 3 pounds a piece and are nice and quiet, the intercom works better without as much background roar, and the plane still seems to fly as fast) - photos of the skin polishing - in progress - and as a bonus some building location (yes, I'm in one of them) and a moving photo Enjoy! Joe E N633Z @ BFI 105 hours P.S. I planned to make a go of flying to the Zenith Open Hanger Day but I too was grounded by the weather. Maybe next year!


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:59:49 PM PST US
    From: "Norm Turner" <normsflighttraining@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Inflight adjustable Props
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Norm Turner" <normsflighttraining@bigpond.com> Hi to all on the list, Today is the day I have been waiting for a long time / 14 weeks!! for it to be built and shipped to me in Darwin from Airmaster in New Zealand . With lots of luck I will receive my new Airmaster constant speed prop with full feather ability, all electric controlled. AP332 with the AC200 smart pitch controller. I only know of one other CH601 HDS with this set up in Australia . When I get it installed and tested I will post the results. This may take some time as I will be doing most of the testing during my trip south on 26th September and will be out of town and away from computers!!. I will then have a Bolly Optima 3 ground adjustable prop for sale. Cheers Norm Turner 601 HDS 350 hrs 912ul do not archive. have a look @http://www.airmasterpropellers.com/


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:47:40 PM PST US
    From: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
    Subject: Scratch building, sharing forms, templates, etc...
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com> I am sure this has been brought up before, but... As I am planning to start my (4th) Zodiac XL, I am considering building it from plans rather that kit form. I don't know much about metal working other than small amounts that I have learned over the years from reading, but I do believe I can pull it off. With that said, I know there are a lot of people out there building Zodiac's from plans. Is there any method in place to loan or rent each other form blocks, etc. to make the parts? Seems we could all save a lot of time and money if those of us that are, or are planning to, building from scratch implemented the divide and conquer method, whereas we work as a team to create the forms (or even create the parts for each other) and then share with others. Just a pipe dream, or should we be content re-inventing the wheel we know already exists in somebody's scrap pile :-) -- Todd Osborne Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com Web Site: www.toddtown.com MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com




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