Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:49 AM - Re: Cortec (Jim Pensinger)
2. 09:20 AM - Re: Swedish mufflers (gary)
3. 09:47 AM - more almost free Teflon (Rich)
4. 10:18 AM - Dynon EFIS for 701 (Tebenkof@aol.com)
5. 11:01 AM - SWISS MUFFLERS (Tebenkof@aol.com)
6. 11:23 AM - Re: Swedish mufflers (Chuck Deiterich)
7. 01:19 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS for 701 (Larry McFarland)
8. 01:33 PM - Re: more almost free Teflon (Leo J. Corbalis)
9. 04:59 PM - New product announcement: affordable VG's (Land Shorter)
10. 06:53 PM - Building Technique? (Paul Moore)
11. 07:09 PM - Re: Building Technique? (Scott Laughlin)
12. 07:13 PM - Re: more almost free Teflon (Paul Moore)
13. 07:24 PM - Re: Building Technique? (Lance Gingell)
14. 07:59 PM - Re: Building Technique? (LRM)
15. 08:37 PM - Re: New product announcement: affordable VG's (Jim and Lucy)
16. 08:42 PM - Re: Building Technique? (Chris Boultinghouse)
17. 08:46 PM - Re: Building Technique? (George Swinford)
18. 08:50 PM - Primers (George Swinford)
Message 1
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pensinger" <jim@pensinger.net>
Another company, Sanchem, Inc (800-621-1603) has a chromate Free pre
treatment similar to Cortec. Their 6100 product is available in gallon cans
($30 for part A and $30 for part B resulting in 2 gallons of product.
Another solution is single part self-etching primers sold to the automotive
industry. One of these I have tried is 5113 Mar-Hyde manufactured by Bondo.
It costs $53 per gallon and is also available in spray cans for $13. It
gives a flat gray coat that seems to protect the aluminum very well.
Does anyone have experience with the "Primer Pistol" sold by Wicks,
Aircraft Spruce etc ($23). It looks like a nice tool to spray small
quintiles of paint.
Jim Pensinger
601XL - waiting for kit
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Swedish mufflers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com>
I'm using a Burns stainless steel muffler (stratight thru "glasspack" type)
on a Stratus and I'm happy with it. It's very light (3 lbs?) and cut the
noise a lot. Not cheap but a nice quality unit. Search for burns ss
on-line.
gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Swedish mufflers
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
<hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>
> List . . . I am extremely interested in the Swedish mufflers. I think
most people enjoy the sight of the planes, but don't enjoy the noise from
them when they fly in close proximity to their homes. As one who will
someday be flying from a rural landing strip, I want to keep on the good
side of my neighbors. To those of you who are experimenting with these
types of mufflers, it will be muchly appreciated if you would post your
successes, problems, mounting, etc. so the rest of us can build upon this
important topic. Thx. Robert Schoenberger 701 - 40%
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | more almost free Teflon |
0.00 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 Date: is 3 to 6 hours after Received: date
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rich" <rbauer@intergate.com>
I have more Teflon if anyone is interested.
It is .625" diameter & 144" total in length in 4 to 5 foot lengths.
I also have 15 strips of Teflon, 1/4" thk x 4-3/8" wide x 48" long.
I will cut to a smaller size to make shipping cheaper.
Rich
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS for 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tebenkof@aol.com
I have been trying to decide whether a Dynon EFIS D-10 is appropriate for a
701, as I am getting close (sort of) to purchasing instruments. It seems to me
I have seen mention by a 701 builder or two considering this.
My questions concern the low end of the speed range. Ron Ulbricht at Dynon
says that the airspeed indication becomes active at about 25 knots, and the
literature says 30. He also says the that AOA becomes less accurate at and below
thirty knots. This seems a little marginal for the 701 at the low end. Is
there anyone actually flying a 701 with this unit? Or having other thoughts
about doing so?
I would much appreciate any feedback from anyone having ideas on the
suitability of the Dynon unit.
Thansks again,
Jim Greenough
701 coming along is Portland, OR
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tebenkof@aol.com
Just one more expression of interest. Swiss mufllers have looked good since
reading a reference to them about European coping with noise standards a
couple of years ago. It would be good to hear about any experiences of those who
may be using or building them.
Jim Greenough
701 in PDX
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Swedish mufflers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
I'm not sure what a Swedish muffler is, but my Jabiru 2200 and its stock
muffler is very quiet. At idle, normal conversation can take place standing
near the engine.
Chuck D.
N701TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Swedish mufflers
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
<hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>
> List . . . I am extremely interested in the Swedish mufflers. I think
most people enjoy the sight of the planes, but don't enjoy the noise from
them when they fly in close proximity to their homes. As one who will
someday be flying from a rural landing strip, I want to keep on the good
side of my neighbors. To those of you who are experimenting with these
types of mufflers, it will be muchly appreciated if you would post your
successes, problems, mounting, etc. so the rest of us can build upon this
important topic. Thx. Robert Schoenberger 701 - 40%
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS for 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Overkill. I think a good GPS, electronic turn indicator,
magnetic compass, a good airspeed and altimiter would be better
money spent, especially on a 701. If any one thing goes bad, it all doesn't
have to be unwired, come out and be replaced. The other good thing would
be a good EIS system by Grand Rapids Technologies.
Respectfully,
Larry McFarland - 15.5 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tebenkof@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Dynon EFIS for 701
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Tebenkof@aol.com
>
> I have been trying to decide whether a Dynon EFIS D-10 is appropriate for
a
> 701, as I am getting close (sort of) to purchasing instruments. It seems
to me
> I have seen mention by a 701 builder or two considering this.
>
> My questions concern the low end of the speed range. Ron Ulbricht at
Dynon
> says that the airspeed indication becomes active at about 25 knots, and
the
> literature says 30. He also says the that AOA becomes less accurate at
and below
> thirty knots. This seems a little marginal for the 701 at the low end.
Is
> there anyone actually flying a 701 with this unit? Or having other
thoughts
> about doing so?
>
> I would much appreciate any feedback from anyone having ideas on the
> suitability of the Dynon unit.
>
> Thansks again,
>
> Jim Greenough
> 701 coming along is Portland, OR
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: more almost free Teflon |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I hope I'm in time this time. I'd like 2 pieces, one of each, 1 ft. long. I
will prepay or post pay whichever is easier.
Leo Corbalis
leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <rbauer@intergate.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: more almost free Teflon
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rich" <rbauer@intergate.com>
>
> I have more Teflon if anyone is interested.
>
> It is .625" diameter & 144" total in length in 4 to 5 foot lengths.
> I also have 15 strips of Teflon, 1/4" thk x 4-3/8" wide x 48" long.
>
> I will cut to a smaller size to make shipping cheaper.
>
> Rich
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | New product announcement: affordable VG's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Land Shorter <landshorter2@yahoo.com>
Hey folks,
I double checked and Matt Dralle's earlier post says it's OK to post about new
aviation products as long as the message doesn't come off as having a "flavor"
of "traditional spam". Don't worry I'm not going to try to sell you anything
that supposedly makes any of your body parts larger (or smaller) and this product
is directly aviation related :) I'm just an airplane builder, owner, pilot,
and aviation nut who wants to tell you where you can find more information about
a great new product.
I've been selling kits of vortex generators (VG's) for only $95 and my customers are telling me they really like the performance gains they're seeing. VG's are great for reducing stall speeds and allow you to land slower, shorter, and safer. I invite you to check out my site at www.landshorter.com and see what you think. My VG's can be quickly installed for testing using removable double-stick tape and come with a 100% money-back guarantee so why not try them out on your plane? You'll be really glad you did :)
Thanks and let's keep 'em flying!
Joa Harrison
The VG Guy
www.landshorter.com
1-877-272-1414 (toll free)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Building Technique? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
List,
Thanks for all the great prop feedback.
Now my kit finally arrived Thursday and I've started the destruction
process, I've got the first of what will surely be many real dumb newbie
questions:
1. Does anyone have a slick method for removing the part number tags that
end up at contact points with other parts? Of the two encountered so far,
one peeled off (mostly) and one came off with mineral spirits, but I'm
concerned about the effect of mineral spirits on paint adhesion. Or, maybe
no one worries about the tags?
2. After reading several independent opinions about priming and paint
adhesion, it seems to be vitally important to properly scuff and clean the
aluminum surface prior to coating. Does this include these contact patches
between parts that we're zinc chromating or some alternative, or can one
just coat it on the raw aluminum surface? I imagine the detailed prep
method would be the preferred, but is it that important inside and what is
everyone else doing?
Paul Moore
kit inventory complete
rudder skeleton cleco'd awaiting advise
stab pieces on deck
Message 11
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| Subject: | Building Technique? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
Hi Paul:
Everybody has their own preference for corrosion protection, so all I can do
is tell you mine. After drilling and deburring, I clean large parts with
water and dish soap, and small parts with lacquer thinner. Dish soap with a
good rinsing seems to be the easiest and cleanest. I follow with a thin coat
of Zinc Chromate spray from a can. I do this outside.
For the labels, the only thing I have with labels is my rudder, and lacquer
thinner soaked through the labels and they came right off. I use lacquer
thinner on all gooey stuff and mistakes with the sharpie. Aircraft spruce
sends me aluminum with some awful tape that leaves a gooey mess and lacquer
thinner does the trick.
Good luck with your journey,
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
List,
Thanks for all the great prop feedback.
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: more almost free Teflon |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
Rich, I also hope I'm in time. I'll take 1' of each as well, and will get
you prepaid or whatever you'd prefer.
pmoore505@msn.com
Paul Moore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <
<mailto:rbauer@intergate.com?subjectRe:%20more%20almost%20free%20Teflon&rep
lyto200409052027.i85KRTR18617@matronics.com> rbauer@intergate.com>
<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com?subjectRe:%20more%20almost%20free%20Teflo
n&replyto200409052027.i85KRTR18617@matronics.com>
zenith-list@matronics.com>
Subject: more almost free Teflon
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rich" <
<mailto:rbauer@intergate.com?subjectRe:%20more%20almost%20free%20Teflon&rep
lyto200409052027.i85KRTR18617@matronics.com> rbauer@intergate.com>
>
> I have more Teflon if anyone is interested.
>
> It is .625" diameter & 144" total in length in 4 to 5 foot lengths.
> I also have 15 strips of Teflon, 1/4" thk x 4-3/8" wide x 48" long.
>
> I will cut to a smaller size to make shipping cheaper.
>
> Rich
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Building Technique? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Hi Paul,
1. Soak it with a little laquer thinner for a few seconds. I will come
right off with no residue (a tip from the rudder workshop).
2. I'm using SEM self etching primer. Many Sonex/RV builders are using
this too - or the similar NAPA or Marhyde self etching primers. They
come in $12 spray cans. Dries in 10 mins, hassle free, just scrub the
part with a kitchen scotch-pad first.
..lance
http://lancegingell.com/plane.asp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Moore
Subject: Zenith-List: Building Technique?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
List,
Thanks for all the great prop feedback.
Now my kit finally arrived Thursday and I've started the destruction
process, I've got the first of what will surely be many real dumb newbie
questions:
1. Does anyone have a slick method for removing the part number tags
that end up at contact points with other parts? Of the two encountered
so far, one peeled off (mostly) and one came off with mineral spirits,
but I'm concerned about the effect of mineral spirits on paint adhesion.
Or, maybe no one worries about the tags?
2. After reading several independent opinions about priming and paint
adhesion, it seems to be vitally important to properly scuff and clean
the aluminum surface prior to coating. Does this include these contact
patches between parts that we're zinc chromating or some alternative, or
can one just coat it on the raw aluminum surface? I imagine the
detailed prep method would be the preferred, but is it that important
inside and what is everyone else doing?
Paul Moore
kit inventory complete
rudder skeleton cleco'd awaiting advise stab pieces on deck
==
==
==
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Building Technique? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "LRM" <lrm@isp.com>
I use acetone to remove the tags, ZAC recommends lacquer, I don't agree.
I've been using acetone to clean resin off my hands and tools for years and
only have a slight stutter, (just kidding). Lacquer is really hard on bare
skin. You can always wear gloves and you should if you are going to be
exposed a lot to any solvent.
As far as painting is concerned, regardless of what you are painting, the
same rules apply. If it's bare metal of any kind it should be eched/cleaned
with an acid wash. Scuffing of bare metal after eching is not necessary but
doen't hurt just to make sure you get a good adhesion. If over old paint,
it has to be cleaned and scuffed. If your old paint flakes or has surfaces
crackes in it, it really needs to come off. Remember to clean/acid wash
before scuffing. If you scuff before cleaning, it will in affect grind the
dirt/oil/contaminates into the surface and you may not be able to clean
properly before painting, then you can have some unwelcome susprises, such
as fish eyes.
I coated any surfaces that were in contact with each other and totally
coated any enclosed areas, such as wings.
Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Building Technique?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
>
> List,
>
> Thanks for all the great prop feedback.
>
> Now my kit finally arrived Thursday and I've started the destruction
> process, I've got the first of what will surely be many real dumb newbie
> questions:
>
> 1. Does anyone have a slick method for removing the part number tags that
> end up at contact points with other parts? Of the two encountered so far,
> one peeled off (mostly) and one came off with mineral spirits, but I'm
> concerned about the effect of mineral spirits on paint adhesion. Or,
maybe
> no one worries about the tags?
>
> 2. After reading several independent opinions about priming and paint
> adhesion, it seems to be vitally important to properly scuff and clean the
> aluminum surface prior to coating. Does this include these contact
patches
> between parts that we're zinc chromating or some alternative, or can one
> just coat it on the raw aluminum surface? I imagine the detailed prep
> method would be the preferred, but is it that important inside and what is
> everyone else doing?
>
>
> Paul Moore
>
> kit inventory complete
> rudder skeleton cleco'd awaiting advise
> stab pieces on deck
>
>
---
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: New product announcement: affordable VG's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jim and Lucy <jpollard@ciaccess.com>
> vortex generators (VG's) for only $95
>Thanks and let's keep 'em flying!
>
>Joa Harrison
>
>The VG Guy
>
>www.landshorter.com
>
>1-877-272-1414 (toll free)
Hi Joa
Do you know if anyone has tried them on a Zenair??
Jim Pollard
Message 16
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| Subject: | Building Technique? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Boultinghouse" <sonex260@austin.rr.com>
> 1. Does anyone have a slick method for removing the part number tags that
> end up at contact points with other parts?
Good old WD-40. Spray the sticker, and let it soak for a few minutes. It'll
peel right off. Another spray and wipe-down with a paper towel will remove
the rest of the residue.
Much less harmful to your nervous system than lacquer thinner or acetone!
Regards,
Chris Boultinghouse
Austin, TX
Sonex N260SX (reserved)
http://sonex260.wheelsup.org
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Building Technique? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Building Technique?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell"
<lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> 1. Soak it with a little laquer thinner for a few seconds. I will come
> right off with no residue (a tip from the rudder workshop).
>
> 2. I'm using SEM self etching primer. Many Sonex/RV builders are using
> this too - or the similar NAPA or Marhyde self etching primers. They
> come in $12 spray cans. Dries in 10 mins, hassle free, just scrub the
> part with a kitchen scotch-pad first.
>
> ..lance
> http://lancegingell.com/plane.asp
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Moore
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Building Technique?
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
>
> List,
>
> Thanks for all the great prop feedback.
>
> Now my kit finally arrived Thursday and I've started the destruction
> process, I've got the first of what will surely be many real dumb newbie
> questions:
>
> 1. Does anyone have a slick method for removing the part number tags
> that end up at contact points with other parts? Of the two encountered
> so far, one peeled off (mostly) and one came off with mineral spirits,
> but I'm concerned about the effect of mineral spirits on paint adhesion.
> Or, maybe no one worries about the tags?
>
> 2. After reading several independent opinions about priming and paint
> adhesion, it seems to be vitally important to properly scuff and clean
> the aluminum surface prior to coating. Does this include these contact
> patches between parts that we're zinc chromating or some alternative, or
> can one just coat it on the raw aluminum surface? I imagine the
> detailed prep method would be the preferred, but is it that important
> inside and what is everyone else doing?
>
>
> Paul Moore
>
> kit inventory complete
> rudder skeleton cleco'd awaiting advise stab pieces on deck
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
I switched from zinc chromate to Marhyde self-etching primer midway thru the building
process. Marhyde seems to stick well on surfaces prepped with lacquer thinner
or MEK and a green Scotchbrite pad. I tried SEMs self-etching primer when
I couldn't find Marhyde, but didn't like it at all.
George
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