Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:07 AM - Re: Manifold vacuum system (Rick)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: Manifold vacuum system (cgalley)
3. 04:57 AM - Re: Manifold vacuum system (Phil Raker)
4. 06:46 AM - Cordless (Robert C. Owens)
5. 07:02 AM - Re: Cordless (Carlos Sa)
6. 07:06 AM - Re: Cordless (Benford2@aol.com)
7. 08:33 AM - Re: Cordless (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
8. 09:04 AM - Re: Cordless (Brandon Tucker)
9. 09:17 AM - Re: Cordless (Gary Gower)
10. 09:22 AM - Re: Cordless (Aaron)
11. 09:55 AM - Cht sensors on Rotax 912 (Johann G.)
12. 10:25 AM - Re: Cordless (Bryan Martin)
13. 10:34 AM - Re: Re: Cordless (Bryan Martin)
14. 11:22 AM - Carb and Turn Coordinator for sale (louiscfi@comcast.net)
15. 11:23 AM - Re:Glass cockpit, venturi and induction backups... (Keith Norton)
16. 03:00 PM - Re: Cht sensors on Rotax 912 (Gary Gower)
17. 03:34 PM - Re: Cht sensors on Rotax 912 (Jon Croke)
18. 05:09 PM - Re: Cordless (Matt & Jo)
19. 05:37 PM - project for sale (Fred B.)
20. 07:28 PM - [ Norman Butcher ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
21. 09:42 PM - Re: Cht sensors on Rotax 912 (Dirk Slabbert)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Manifold vacuum system |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick <n701rr@yahoo.com>
Much like an after market cruise control from JC Whitney for $100 or so. They
too use a plastic jug type accumulator.
Mike <wizard-24@juno.com> wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mike"
> you could improve the performance of a manifold vacuum source for a
> gyro if you inserted a check valve in the vac line coming from the
> manifold, and then ran the line to a quart size tank that acts as a
> vacuum accumulator. The Gyro would be connected to the accumulator.
Very interesting idea -- kind of the same concept as a header tank in a fuel system.
Has this been tried before?
Mike F.
Juno Gift Certificates
Give the gift of Internet access this holiday season.
http://www.juno.com/give
Rick
Orlando, FL
http://www.geocities.com/n701rr/index.html
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Manifold vacuum system |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
A vacuum tank would only work to smooth out momentary lapses or spikes in
vacuum supply which would be fine for an auto with its changing throttle but
this doesn't happen with aviation use. You can't "store" vacuum like one can
store air as you can only get about 2/3 of a complete vacuum but you can
store several times the atmospheric pressure. Autos did use a vacuum
boosting pump piggy backed on the fuel pump. This works until the diaphragm
fails but this type of system was replaced with electric wipers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <wizard-24@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Manifold vacuum system
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mike" <wizard-24@juno.com>
>
>
> > you could improve the performance of a manifold vacuum source for a
> > gyro if you inserted a check valve in the vac line coming from the
> > manifold, and then ran the line to a quart size tank that acts as a
> > vacuum accumulator. The Gyro would be connected to the accumulator.
>
> Very interesting idea -- kind of the same concept as a header tank in a
fuel system. Has this been tried before?
>
> Mike F.
>
> Juno Gift Certificates
> Give the gift of Internet access this holiday season.
> http://www.juno.com/give
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Manifold vacuum system |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Phil Raker <phadr1@yahoo.com>
Mike, et al,
There is a back-up vacuum system sold by Aircraft Spruce which uses
manifold vacuum. I don't know whether it has an accumulator (other than the
hoses) but I believe it does have a check valve. I don't believe you'd want to
use such a system as a primary vacuum source, unless the steam gauges were not
your primary ones, but only backup to an electric system (gyro or glass panel).
I'm planning to go with either Dynon or Grand Rapids EFIS system, with the
AnywhereMap Attitude indicator as a backup.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mike" <wizard-24@juno.com>
> you could improve the performance of a manifold vacuum source for a
> gyro if you inserted a check valve in the vac line coming from the
> manifold, and then ran the line to a quart size tank that acts as a
> vacuum accumulator. The Gyro would be connected to the accumulator.
Very interesting idea -- kind of the same concept as a header tank in a fuel
system.
Has this been tried before?
Mike F.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert C. Owens" <bobowens@avlaw.com>
Can anyone recommend a hi-speed cordless drill, 2500 rpms or higher, small
and light weight preferably?
Bob, building CH 701 with Pegastol wings
Robert C. Owens
Board Certified in Aviation Law
www.avlaw.com
<file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Bob/Application%20Data/Microsoft/Sign
atures/www.avlaw.com>
Available 24/7 at:
AvLaw
6630 SW 50th Terrace
Miami, Florida 33155
Tel: (305) 669-9263
Fax: (305) 662-7151
Cell: (305) 586-3721
Email: bobowens@avlaw.com
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
I'm not going to recomend any brand or model, but here are a few points I learned
on the way:
1) I like to have buble level indicators, both horizontal and vertical. Not all
drills have them,
and some are hard to read.
2) There is a good deal of difference between drills of the same brand with different
prices. The
higher priced usually runs more smoothly - you may be unable to try at the store,
as the batteries
may need to be charged. Spend a few bucks more and get the better one, you are
going to make
hundreds of holes.
3) you may or may not want a high-speed charger. With two batteries, one does not
really need it,
but if you are not looking at the low end ones, they will come with fast chargers
anyway.
4) I find that the (high) speed is no big deal, but you do want reversible and
variable speed.
5) Google for user reports and/or consumer guides: there might be some aspect of
importance to you
that you are unaware of, besides the factors above. This is applicable to just
about any tool /
appliance you plan on acquiring.
Hope this helps
Carlos
--- "Robert C. Owens" <bobowens@avlaw.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert C. Owens" <bobowens@avlaw.com>
>
> Can anyone recommend a hi-speed cordless drill, 2500 rpms or higher, small
> and light weight preferably?
>
> Bob, building CH 701 with Pegastol wings
>
> Robert C. Owens
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 12/18/2004 8:03:12 AM Mountain Standard Time,
carlosfsa@yahoo.com writes:
> batteries
> may need to be charged. Spend a few bucks more and get the better one, you
> are going to make
> hundreds of holes.
> 3) you may or may
You mean thousands of holes..................
do not archive
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Hello Bob:
I recently bought a Ryobi 18v. 3/8 inch cordless variable speed reversible
to replace my trusty 12v Dewalt. I cannot buy a replacement battery for the
DeWalt so it's time to replace. The last replacement battery for the DeWalt
was $60..more than a replacement drill!
My opinion, for what's it's worth...is weight. As mentioned, you're
drilling THOUSANDS of holes. My biggest gripe with the Ryobi is the weight of
that
bigg-butt 18v battery sitting down there.
Sure - 2800 RPM is important, and if you have two batteries - especially
with a fast charger - you'll be fine. The bubble levels previously mentioned
are a nice-to-have, but you get real good at drilling a nice, straight hole
after you practice on the first 200 holes!
By the way, I'm an air-tool shop...even though the compressor is WAY louder
than the electric drill will ever be, the air drills are very lightweight.
Your mileage may vary
Tracy
601XL tail 85%
In a message dated 12/18/2004 9:47:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bobowens@avlaw.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert C. Owens" <bobowens@avlaw.com>
Can anyone recommend a hi-speed cordless drill, 2500 rpms or higher, small
and light weight preferably?
Bob, building CH 701 with Pegastol wings
Robert C. Owens
Board Certified in Aviation Law
www.avlaw.com
<file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Bob/Application%20Data/Microsoft/Sign
atures/www.avlaw.com>
Available 24/7 at:
AvLaw
6630 SW 50th Terrace
Miami, Florida 33155
Tel: (305) 669-9263
Fax: (305) 662-7151
Cell: (305) 586-3721
Email: bobowens@avlaw.com
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Robert,
I know that this is not exactly what you asked
for, but I thought another perspective might be
useful. I have 5 cordless drills, 4 cheapo harbor
freight models, and one Craftsman. The Craftsman (at
75 bucks) died on me after a year, and the harbor
freight drills are still plugging along (after several
years). If you have the means, I would definitely go
with Makita or DeWalt, but if not, the harbor freight
ones work fine.
What I like is having four drills, each with a
separate #20, #30, #40, and a step drill bit, and not
having to switch bits. I prefer to pilot drill
everything before drilling for A4 or A5, and having
separate drills with different bits is very
convenient.
Here is one that is variable speed:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90120
Here is one that is constant speed:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6055
You can buy 6 or 7 of them for the price of one
DeWalt:
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&keyword=Dewalt+Drill&cm_ven=hd_goog&cm_cat=Search&cm_pla=25&cm_ite=bid10087701-Dewalt_Drill
Respectfully,
Brandon
__________________________________
www.yahoo.com
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Crvsecretary@aol.com wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Tracy.
(snip...)
By the way, I'm an air-tool shop...even though the compressor is WAY louder
than the electric drill will ever be, the air drills are very lightweight.
I also have airtools in my shop,.. The only problem is that everytime you use
the air drill is like having a 5 HP motor in it... electricity to fill the compressor
is expensive... and the air drill uses a lots of air.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
Bob
Check out Photoshare Mar 8 2003. 10,000 RPM no load. Cheap. Email if
you want more info. This is all I use. I have 1/8 & 5/32".
Aaron DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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| Subject: | Cht sensors on Rotax 912 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello list members.
I have some questions regarding the CHT sensors on cyl #2 and #3 on Rotax 912 ul
engine.
Is the sensor measuring water temp or metal temp on the cyl?
Is it necessary to use a special wire like the one used for EGT or CHT on a two
stroke which is installed under the spark plugs?
Can I use a AWG 18 wire for this sensor?
The reason I ask about the wire is that the sensor connection is different than
the normal two stroke method.
The connection is a standard 6,3 x 0.8 DIN 46247. i.e. the blue size female connector.
Thank you in advance.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Z 701.
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 12/18/04 9:45 AM, Robert C. Owens at bobowens@avlaw.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert C. Owens" <bobowens@avlaw.com>
>
> Can anyone recommend a hi-speed cordless drill, 2500 rpms or higher, small
> and light weight preferably?
>
I've found the 18V models are a bit too awkward to use with that heavy
battery, I prefer the 14.5V models, much better balanced. I used a DeWalt
for most of the plane until someone broke in and stole it, I replaced it
with a Makita which I think is a better drill. I can't recall the speed of
my drill, I tried to find the fastest one I could. I noticed the battery
drills tend to be slower than the corded ones.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
In Phase I testing.
do not archive.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Cordless |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
on 12/18/04 12:03 PM, Brandon Tucker at btucke73@yahoo.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
>
> Robert,
>
> I know that this is not exactly what you asked
> for, but I thought another perspective might be
> useful. I have 5 cordless drills, 4 cheapo harbor
> freight models, and one Craftsman. The Craftsman (at
> 75 bucks) died on me after a year, and the harbor
> freight drills are still plugging along (after several
> years). If you have the means, I would definitely go
> with Makita or DeWalt, but if not, the harbor freight
> ones work fine.
I haven't had much luck with Craftsman power tools, I believe they are
mostly made by Black & Decker and they are the low end models. The Craftsman
industrial tools are a bit better but I don't think they are made by B & D.
Black & Decker has been mostly junk since GE bought them out several years
ago. The same thing happened to RCA. They were one of the better brands
until GE bought them, now they're junk.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
In Phase I testing.
do not archive.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Carb and Turn Coordinator for sale |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> Zenith-List message posted by: louiscfi@comcast.net
Friends, I have a brand new Aerocarb ACV-C04 for sale. It has the flange mount.
It is 35 mm. I am asking $350.
I also have a Falcon turn coordinator for sale. Model number TC02E-3-1. It is
14-28v, flat panel, and unlit. It appears brand new in sealed plastic. I am
asking $250.
I received these parts in a bulk purchase and can't use them on my airplane/engine.
Both include free FedEx 2 day air shipping in the USA complete with tracking number,
and full insurance.
If you want to use a credit card, I have paypal...or you can just pay w/ a regular
check.
If you are interested, please contact me off list at Louiscfi@aol.com.
--
Louis
601xl, corvair pwr
j-41 capt
CFII SMEL
http://www.N601LV.com
Friends, I have a brand new Aerocarb ACV-C04 for sale. It has the flange mount.
It is 35 mm. I am asking $350.
I also have a Falcon turn coordinator for sale. Model number TC02E-3-1. It is 14-28v,
flat panel, and unlit. It appears brand new in sealed plastic. I am asking
$250.
I received these parts in a bulk purchase and can't use them on my airplane/engine.
Both include free FedEx 2 day air shipping in the USA complete with tracking number,
and full insurance.
If you want to use a credit card, I have paypal...or you can just pay w/ a regular
check.
If you are interested, please contact me off list at Louiscfi@aol.com.
--
Louis
601xl, corvair pwr
j-41 capt
CFII SMEL
http://www.N601LV.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | RE:Glass cockpit, venturi and induction backups... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Norton <keithnorton@mac.com>
The glass cockpit instruments are nice, especially when they include terrain avoidance.
But I wouldn't rely with them when IFR unless I had redundant electric
supplies. It is bad enough to loose your instruments when IFR but when it
happens at the same time you loose your lights, radios, and electric trim it is
really bad. Having the instruments vacuum powered, even by a venturi, provides
a level of redundancy that all-electric systems don't have (except on twins).
On my personal aircraft, I use a mixture of electric and steam gages with a venturi
for the vacuum instruments. For intentional IFR, I want a vacuum pump instead
of the venturi because of icing.
Just my 2 cents.
Keith
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cht sensors on Rotax 912 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hello Johan,
We installed a CHT sensor in one head of our 912. The idea was this: We went
to a Rotax repair course for the 912, they had a desassembled engine, watching
the water pump impeller, is made of plastic (nylon?) .... what will happen
if the impeler (pump propeller) will break or set free from his shaft? no water
to the heads, and will take some precious minutes for the water temp sensor
to "feel" the increase in temperature from allo the water system, meanwhile
the heads will get severe damage, also will give more time to plan an emergency
landing...
With the carburators the 912 has (Bing) there is no need of reading the combustion
temp, they are automatic.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S
"Johann G." <johann@gi.is> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G."
Hello list members.
I have some questions regarding the CHT sensors on cyl #2 and #3 on Rotax 912 ul
engine.
Is the sensor measuring water temp or metal temp on the cyl?
Is it necessary to use a special wire like the one used for EGT or CHT on a two
stroke which is installed under the spark plugs?
Can I use a AWG 18 wire for this sensor?
The reason I ask about the wire is that the sensor connection is different than
the normal two stroke method.
The connection is a standard 6,3 x 0.8 DIN 46247. i.e. the blue size female connector.
Thank you in advance.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Z 701.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cht sensors on Rotax 912 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Johann,
The sensors are measuring the temp of the head material NOT the water. (they
do not touch the water) Rotax recommends NOT monitoring water temp, as Gary
says, we do not care about water temps... it is the head that we want to
keep cool. Also, if the water runs out, the engine will be hot but the
water temp will be cool (no water!)
These sender units on the 912 are temperature resistors and thus require
external power along with an appropriate meter (VDO, for example), they are
NOT the voltage generating kind like on the 2 stroke that require no power
and a special meter for that purpose. Hence and therefore: any electrical
wire will work (18g is fine) to run to your meter and power source. The 2
stroke kind do use a special length of wire to keep the tiny self generated
voltages accurate to the meter.
Good luck!
Jon
www.CH701.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Subject: Zenith-List: Cht sensors on Rotax 912
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
>
> Hello list members.
>
> I have some questions regarding the CHT sensors on cyl #2 and #3 on Rotax
> 912 ul engine.
> Is the sensor measuring water temp or metal temp on the cyl?
> Is it necessary to use a special wire like the one used for EGT or CHT on
> a two stroke which is installed under the spark plugs?
> Can I use a AWG 18 wire for this sensor?
> The reason I ask about the wire is that the sensor connection is different
> than the normal two stroke method.
> The connection is a standard 6,3 x 0.8 DIN 46247. i.e. the blue size
> female connector.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> Z 701.
>
>
>
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
I used to have a 5 gal oil free compressor that served me well for quite a
few years, but it was very loud. Last year it died and I got an 25 Gal
compressor that uses oil. It is very quiet and works like a charm. I think
the air tools are really the way to go. I have a number of drills. My
favorite rechargeable is the Porter Cable 14 volt. The higher voltage ones
are more powerful but are also heavy. The 14 volt has a nice trade off with
weight and power.
The Porter Cable comes with two batteries. One of the things that you have
to watch out for is overcharging NiCad's. I added a bathroom timer (1 hour)
to the circuit that my charger is plugged into and when I need to charge up
one of the batteries I give the timer a twist and let it go for an hour.
That way I don't need to worry about leaving the battery on charge for long
periods of time. Works very well.
Cheers
Matt
601XL working on the Stab
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gower" <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cordless
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Crvsecretary@aol.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
> Tracy.
>
> (snip...)
> By the way, I'm an air-tool shop...even though the compressor is WAY
> louder
> than the electric drill will ever be, the air drills are very lightweight.
>
>
> I also have airtools in my shop,.. The only problem is that everytime you
> use the air drill is like having a 5 HP motor in it... electricity to
> fill the compressor is expensive... and the air drill uses a lots of air.
>
> Saludos
>
> Gary Gower
>
>
>
Message 19
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DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=zvddTS9OpsHgHoIff/e/qs82ihJRzRtnnnyTeaCioYAF5V0Nt3iQXrluWkdUY1EOEBSGyZPsCPDIG5zxw6k8CSBxajlzN+cMpEozPwoYKBmKUXy/2LJ53XbCt+4snmt69iR/7bf1WZYrQtsPIgzUKlfmxgY/Re8kzHzSUrsS3dk=
;
| Subject: | project for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred B." <taildragger601@yahoo.com>
I noticed a posting of a 601 HD recently and feel there are some facts that all
potential buyers might learn form my very recent experience. I learned form
a member of my EAA chapter of a Van's RV 6 for sale. He knew I am interested
in the 601 and have previously had interest in the RV's and told me of a project
in a storage hangar.. The plane had been there for several years, and the
bill had not been paid for 6 years, in spite of repeated notices to the renter.
I decided to pursue possible purchase and I learned a lot in the process:
( 1) Pictures must be viewed carefully. Sometimes things are hidden either inadvertently
(or perhaps purposely.) ( 2) I called Van's. I am not sure
if they are typical, but they stated I needed both the plans number and the builders
name as well as a bill of sale to support the build 3) I called the
EAA main office, always a help, and spoke with Joe Norris. He informed me that
the builder's logs were essental to my purchase,and
that if
the logs were not there, I would not likely be able to get an FAA Experimental
Amateur signoff. He suggested the only way to get registered without logs was
with an Experimental - Exhibition Catagory, a much more restrictive category.
(4) I went to look anyway, not being able to resist a potential partially built
plane at a potential bargain price. I took a friend who had built several
homebuilts and who is also an A&P. He helped me examine the partial build
for 2 hours and we talked. He said to also be careful of plans built planes,
though this wasn't, as the builds are often not as consistent as kits, and to
NEVER buy a plans build without being able to inspect pre-covering unless I knew
the builder's work. We found parts missing in the storage locker ailerons,
horizontal stabilizer parts of the landing gear, and plans but no builder's log.
I passed on the kit, but another friend purchased it...for $300, the price
of scrap...He thinks he may try to part it out, and
at any
rate, can likely get his $300 back in scrap if not.. Me, I learned a lot and pass
it on. If you are looking at any kit, make sure it is all there , has plan
numbers and logs, it is either open for inspection (pre cover, especially if
it is plans built) and remember that a bargain is no bargain if you can't license
or fly it. Tailwinds, Fred
---------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | [ Norman Butcher ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Norman Butcher <normskiroo@ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: UK based G-DONT, aircraft and instrument panel.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/normskiroo@ukonline.co.uk.12.18.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cht sensors on Rotax 912 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dirk Slabbert" <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
Johan,
you can tell the 2 types apart by looking at the install method : metal temp one
fits under the plug head, water temp one has a round extrution that screws into
the cyl head.
Both of them has a sort of delayed effect, takes a while to reflect the combustion
temp.
Carbs can go wrong, needle sticking, something in the main jet ea, by the time
you see this in cyl head temp, the damage could be done.
I am instaliing 4 (?!) egt's, with cyl head temp, this way I can tell whats happening
up front, pull on the choke to cool things down, if needed.
Oil temp, pressure is just as important, the more you know about that engine up
front the better.
Dirk 701
Piketberg SA (41deg C today)
----- Original Message -----
From: Johann G.
To: Zenith listinn
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 7:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cht sensors on Rotax 912
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello list members.
I have some questions regarding the CHT sensors on cyl #2 and #3 on Rotax 912
ul engine.
Is the sensor measuring water temp or metal temp on the cyl?
Is it necessary to use a special wire like the one used for EGT or CHT on a two
stroke which is installed under the spark plugs?
Can I use a AWG 18 wire for this sensor?
The reason I ask about the wire is that the sensor connection is different than
the normal two stroke method.
The connection is a standard 6,3 x 0.8 DIN 46247. i.e. the blue size female connector.
Thank you in advance.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Z 701.
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