Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - Elevator sensitivity vs. control harmony (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
2. 10:58 AM - Hinge (Dave & Darlene)
3. 12:01 PM - Re: Testing Avionics (Kent Brown)
4. 12:07 PM - Question before first engine run (Trevor Page)
5. 12:28 PM - Re:Engine run (Zed Smith)
6. 12:36 PM - Re: Question before first engine run (Cleone Markwell)
7. 01:32 PM - gascolator (rical26)
8. 02:36 PM - 601 Canopy (Jim Pellien)
9. 02:49 PM - Re: Hinge (george may)
10. 03:26 PM - Re: 601 Canopy (Larry McFarland)
11. 06:30 PM - Re: Question before first engine run (Trevor Page)
12. 09:42 PM - 601XL POH, Anybody Got One ? (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
13. 09:52 PM - 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator sensitivity vs. control harmony |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Andrew Elliott" <a.s.elliott@cox.net>
Interesting comments on the control harmony in the 601XL. I am
currently flying a '69 AA-1 and when I took my test ride in the 601XL,
the first thing I noticed was that the control forces were comparatively
quite heavy all around, but especially in the ailerons! You can fly the
AA-1 with two fingers! I'm already sure I'll use the piano hinges for
the ailerons, but am even thinking of adding attachment points for
spades, in case I need to further lighten the loads. Seems like it's
all a matter of what you're used to.
Andy Elliott
Lycoming owner, Corvair wannabe!
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Would anyone happen to know the part # for hinges at Aircraft Spruce. I'm not exactly
sure which one it is. I'm building the XL
Dave
Alberta
601XL
Message 3
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| Subject: | Testing Avionics |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kent Brown" <kentbrown@verizon.net>
> How is anyone testing their electrical systems (lights, fuel senders,
> etc.) early on in the construction phase? I am looking for ideas for a
> variable power supply. Thanks in advance.
>
> Tom Makibbin
> 601XL Tail done, finishing right wing
>
>
I bought a 7A Powersonic gel cell battery to use to check nav lights, etc.
A small regulated charger keeps it charged, and I also use it to run a
handheld radio so I can listen to ATC while I'm building. Motivation, you
know! Battery seems to work better than a 4A regulated supply I tried
using.
Kent
Message 4
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| Subject: | Question before first engine run |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Listers, I was hoping you can shed some light on something for me since
you've all been very helpful.
First, a little history. I purchased an older used Rotax 912UL some
months ago for my 601HD project which I'm almost done with. This engine
is an older UL model I believe since I has the electronics in an
external aluminum box. I have just finished the firewall-forward
installation today and filled up the engine with all fluids, except for
fuel in order to try a test run this week.
I have everything wired up correctly, the engine turns over when I
apply main power and turn the key (I'm using an Aircraft Spruce
ignition with key).
I removed 1 spark plug to check for spark (holding the plug against the
intake manifold for grounding) and turning the key. I do not see a
spark.
I tried on another spark plug, same thing.
My question is:
Am I supposed to see a spark? My understanding of regular engines is
that I'm supposed to.
Now, in light of this I should tell you a couple more things because
I'm at a loss to explain the lack of spark.
1. The electronic box I mentioned does not have any mag wires coming
out of it. Only 2 spade connectors on the bottom of the unit. I hooked
my mag wires to those since that's the only logical place I can think
of. I have a picture of the box if anyone wants to see what I'm talking
about.
2. I changed the older original EYQUEM plugs to regular DCPR7E plugs as
per Tech bulletin 912-01. The only deviation was that I used NGK 120
plug connectors which are of resistor type instead of the NGK units
that Rotax uses.
At first I thought that my plug connectors having resistors was
impeding the spark but according to the tech bulletin both the plugs
and connectors Rotax recommends have resistors as well.
Maybe I didn't wire the ignition properly? I spent a lot of time wiring
that little guy and I tested every connection in my electrical system
with a meter as I went along, so far I do not have any problems other
than a severe drop in voltage when turning over the engine (my EIS
seems to turn on and off at each revolution). That I don't care about
too much as long as it settles once the engine is running.
Any thoughts on what I should test/change would be greatly appreciated.
I want to make sure I'm not worrying about something that is moot
before I go too far.
Trevor Page
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Is it possible you have the two mag leads grounded, rather than "open", therefore
"killing" the spark?
Remove the wires to the spade lugs, crank engine, check for spark.
I'm not presently in hangar, don't have Rotax manuals at hand, but this is my first
guess.
Zed/901/R912/been there, done that/do not archive.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Question before first engine run |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net>
Trevor, can you reach the fuel shut off easily? My grounding wires did not
have a good enough ground and I went out and made my first flight and then
couldn't shut the engine off till I shut off the fuel. The key switch had
worked for several runs before but I can tell you I was glad my shut off
was handy. It took a few minutes to use up the available fuel. Just be
sure you can stop the engine before you start it. Sorry, I can't tell you
the answer to your question. I found that I did not understand several
things about the 912 UL so I have removed it in favor of a Corvair
engine. Cleone
At 09:05 PM 1/2/05, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
>
>Listers, I was hoping you can shed some light on something for me since
>you've all been very helpful.
>
>First, a little history. I purchased an older used Rotax 912UL some
>months ago for my 601HD project which I'm almost done with. This engine
>is an older UL model I believe since I has the electronics in an
>external aluminum box. I have just finished the firewall-forward
>installation today and filled up the engine with all fluids, except for
>fuel in order to try a test run this week.
>
>I have everything wired up correctly, the engine turns over when I
>apply main power and turn the key (I'm using an Aircraft Spruce
>ignition with key).
>I removed 1 spark plug to check for spark (holding the plug against the
>intake manifold for grounding) and turning the key. I do not see a
>spark.
>I tried on another spark plug, same thing.
>
>My question is:
>
>Am I supposed to see a spark? My understanding of regular engines is
>that I'm supposed to.
>
>Now, in light of this I should tell you a couple more things because
>I'm at a loss to explain the lack of spark.
>
>1. The electronic box I mentioned does not have any mag wires coming
>out of it. Only 2 spade connectors on the bottom of the unit. I hooked
>my mag wires to those since that's the only logical place I can think
>of. I have a picture of the box if anyone wants to see what I'm talking
>about.
>
>2. I changed the older original EYQUEM plugs to regular DCPR7E plugs as
>per Tech bulletin 912-01. The only deviation was that I used NGK 120
>plug connectors which are of resistor type instead of the NGK units
>that Rotax uses.
>
>At first I thought that my plug connectors having resistors was
>impeding the spark but according to the tech bulletin both the plugs
>and connectors Rotax recommends have resistors as well.
>Maybe I didn't wire the ignition properly? I spent a lot of time wiring
>that little guy and I tested every connection in my electrical system
>with a meter as I went along, so far I do not have any problems other
>than a severe drop in voltage when turning over the engine (my EIS
>seems to turn on and off at each revolution). That I don't care about
>too much as long as it settles once the engine is running.
>
>Any thoughts on what I should test/change would be greatly appreciated.
>I want to make sure I'm not worrying about something that is moot
>before I go too far.
>
>Trevor Page
>
>
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "rical26" <rical26@rogers.com>
Hi, what is the most popular gascolator used with a rotax 912UL?
regards
Richard
Thanks to have answered my question on rad cover.I'm just a newbie!!!!
do not archive
Message 8
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0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Question for the group:
The 601 canopy, when open, could be a large wind sail. Has anybody experienced
breakage of the
canopy or its connecting rod and damper in strong winds?
Is it a smart idea to add a bungee or spring to make sure the canopy does not open
too far and
damage the damper/rods?
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Region
SportsPlanes.com
703-851-9375
www.sportsplanes.com
jim@sportsplanes.com
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Dave--
I purchased the retrofit hinge kit from ZAC. The part number staped on
the hinge
is MS20257-5. It is available from Wicks under that number
George May
601XL
>From: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: Hinge
>Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 12:08:09 -0800
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene"
><dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
>
>Would anyone happen to know the part # for hinges at Aircraft Spruce. I'm
>not exactly sure which one it is. I'm building the XL
>
>Dave
>Alberta
>601XL
>
>
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Jim,
I put a 1/8" x 3/4" nylon strap between the seats up to the canopy
rear center tube. Pictures of it detailed on canopy page of the
www.macsmachine.com site. Yes, I've found myself rolling along
while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
acting as a sail. Had to lower the canopy with difficulty to stop the
rolling. The strap works! No damage.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with 50 hours
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 Canopy
> The 601 canopy, when open, could be a large wind sail. Has anybody
> experienced breakage of the
> canopy or its connecting rod and damper in strong winds?
> Jim Pellien
> Mid-Atlantic Region
> SportsPlanes.com
> 703-851-9375
> www.sportsplanes.com
> jim@sportsplanes.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Question before first engine run |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Looks like I solved my own problem. I removed all the plugs, re-gapped
to 20 thou and shut off the lights in my garage...
Lo and behold, SPARK!!!
So, now I wait for a warmer day to pull her out and start her up. Wish
me luck, I'll report my findings.
Trevor Page
Things left to do: Install canopy, attach wings. Can I claim 99% done
now?? ;)
On Jan 3, 2005, at 3:13 PM, Cleone Markwell wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net>
>
> Trevor, can you reach the fuel shut off easily? My grounding wires
> did not
> have a good enough ground and I went out and made my first flight and
> then
> couldn't shut the engine off till I shut off the fuel. The key switch
> had
> worked for several runs before but I can tell you I was glad my shut
> off
> was handy. It took a few minutes to use up the available fuel. Just be
> sure you can stop the engine before you start it. Sorry, I can't tell
> you
> the answer to your question. I found that I did not understand several
> things about the 912 UL so I have removed it in favor of a Corvair
> engine. Cleone
>
>
> At 09:05 PM 1/2/05, you wrote:
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
>>
>> Listers, I was hoping you can shed some light on something for me
>> since
>> you've all been very helpful.
>>
>> First, a little history. I purchased an older used Rotax 912UL some
>> months ago for my 601HD project which I'm almost done with. This
>> engine
>> is an older UL model I believe since I has the electronics in an
>> external aluminum box. I have just finished the firewall-forward
>> installation today and filled up the engine with all fluids, except
>> for
>> fuel in order to try a test run this week.
>>
>> I have everything wired up correctly, the engine turns over when I
>> apply main power and turn the key (I'm using an Aircraft Spruce
>> ignition with key).
>> I removed 1 spark plug to check for spark (holding the plug against
>> the
>> intake manifold for grounding) and turning the key. I do not see a
>> spark.
>> I tried on another spark plug, same thing.
>>
>> My question is:
>>
>> Am I supposed to see a spark? My understanding of regular engines is
>> that I'm supposed to.
>>
>> Now, in light of this I should tell you a couple more things because
>> I'm at a loss to explain the lack of spark.
>>
>> 1. The electronic box I mentioned does not have any mag wires coming
>> out of it. Only 2 spade connectors on the bottom of the unit. I hooked
>> my mag wires to those since that's the only logical place I can think
>> of. I have a picture of the box if anyone wants to see what I'm
>> talking
>> about.
>>
>> 2. I changed the older original EYQUEM plugs to regular DCPR7E plugs
>> as
>> per Tech bulletin 912-01. The only deviation was that I used NGK 120
>> plug connectors which are of resistor type instead of the NGK units
>> that Rotax uses.
>>
>> At first I thought that my plug connectors having resistors was
>> impeding the spark but according to the tech bulletin both the plugs
>> and connectors Rotax recommends have resistors as well.
>> Maybe I didn't wire the ignition properly? I spent a lot of time
>> wiring
>> that little guy and I tested every connection in my electrical system
>> with a meter as I went along, so far I do not have any problems other
>> than a severe drop in voltage when turning over the engine (my EIS
>> seems to turn on and off at each revolution). That I don't care about
>> too much as long as it settles once the engine is running.
>>
>> Any thoughts on what I should test/change would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>> I want to make sure I'm not worrying about something that is moot
>> before I go too far.
>>
>> Trevor Page
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | 601XL POH, Anybody Got One ? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Hello Thread Friends, I need a draft of a 601 XL POH for a Jab 3300. Anybody
out there got one they are real proud of that I could plagiarize? Best regards
for Bill of Georgia
Message 13
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| Subject: | 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, I was about to attach my wings yesterday when I decided
a fuel tank leak test would be just the thing to do before hand. I have the
flush type caps on the wing tanks that are gray and have a short thermos type
handle for engaging and removal. First cap came off fine and fuel test was also
good. Then I tried to get the other bastard off and the cap refuses to lift
out. I taped on it, WD 40'ed it, turned it a tiny bit, even strung safety wire
through the little handle, connected to a large plastic tie and lifted the
whole wing off the saw horses trying to get it to lift out. Anybody suffer this
same shame? I know it worked when I put the tanks in a year ago. Anybody got a
suggestion short of drilling the bugger out and buying another from Mr.
Spruce? Frustrated in Georgia, Bill
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