Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:12 AM - 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (John)
2. 04:39 AM - parking brake? (Grant Corriveau)
3. 05:03 AM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (Dave Kubassek)
4. 06:09 AM - Re: Brake ? (Leo Gates)
5. 06:21 AM - Re: 601XL POH, Anybody Got One ? (Al Young)
6. 06:26 AM - Re: parking brake? (Robert Schoenberger)
7. 06:36 AM - Re: parking brake? (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
8. 06:51 AM - Re: parking brake? (Larry Martin)
9. 06:56 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: Question before first engine run (Philip Condon)
10. 07:11 AM - Re: Question before first engine run (Weston, Jim)
11. 07:55 AM - Power source (Bob Gibfried)
12. 09:04 AM - Re: parking brake? (Gary Gower)
13. 09:10 AM - Re: 601 Canopy (Leo J. Corbalis)
14. 09:55 AM - Re: parking brake? (Brett)
15. 10:35 AM - Re: Brake ? (Leo Gates)
16. 11:01 AM - Re: parking brake? (cgalley)
17. 11:10 AM - Re: parking brake? (Michel Therrien)
18. 02:18 PM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers)
19. 03:07 PM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (Gary Gower)
20. 03:07 PM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (ZMAN601XL@aol.com)
21. 03:22 PM - Re: Zodiac XL elevator sensitivity reduction? (Matt & Jo)
22. 03:57 PM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
23. 04:27 PM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (Michel Therrien)
24. 04:58 PM - Re: parking brake? (Tim & Diane Shankland)
25. 05:19 PM - DAR Costs (john H)
26. 06:08 PM - Re: DAR Costs (ron dewees)
27. 06:11 PM - Re: DAR Costs (Benford2@aol.com)
28. 06:14 PM - Spark problems on Rotax 912 again... (Trevor Page)
29. 06:45 PM - Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps (george may)
30. 07:06 PM - Re: DAR Costs (Mike H)
31. 07:14 PM - Re: DAR Costs (Mike H)
32. 07:58 PM - Re: Zodiac crash at PAE (j.breit@comcast.net)
33. 08:39 PM - Re: Spark problems on Rotax 912 again... (Greg Ferris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John" <jlifer@bellsouth.net>
Bill, Might be stupid question, but is your vent line open? Possibly have a vacuum
in the tank especially if it has been sitting through several seasons. John
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
> while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
> acting as a sail.
Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Kubassek" <dkubassek@golden.net>
Welcome to the club
I file mine and sanded them and greased them and every other darn thing and
they still required a stong arm and a set of pliers to yank them out
with.......
finally after ripping the tab or handle or what ever you want to call it
,right out of the cap..........
I contacted ZAC,,,,,,,,
they sent me two new ones , FREE of charge, No Questions asked. ......
the new ones work like a charm........
Bless them dudes.........
(i found that while pulling straight up on the handle with a pair of pliers
and with my other fist pounding down around the cap would finally pop it
out...)
dave kubassek .
XL C-FDSF
----- Original Message -----
From: <JAPhillipsGA@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Dear Thread Friends, I was about to attach my wings yesterday when I
> decided
> a fuel tank leak test would be just the thing to do before hand. I have
> the
> flush type caps on the wing tanks that are gray and have a short thermos
> type
> handle for engaging and removal. First cap came off fine and fuel test
> was also
> good. Then I tried to get the other bastard off and the cap refuses to
> lift
> out. I taped on it, WD 40'ed it, turned it a tiny bit, even strung safety
> wire
> through the little handle, connected to a large plastic tie and lifted the
> whole wing off the saw horses trying to get it to lift out. Anybody
> suffer this
> same shame? I know it worked when I put the tanks in a year ago. Anybody
> got a
> suggestion short of drilling the bugger out and buying another from Mr.
> Spruce? Frustrated in Georgia, Bill
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo Gates" <leogates@allvantage.com>
I bought my kit in 1997 and got drawings 3rd edition 1/95 (old
configuration). I bought the 4th edition, 05/01 when they came out (new
configuration). Check page F18. The Mod was very minor and had to do with
cylinder mounting geometry. The top arm attached to the cylinder plunger is
shortened. I shortened mine to 65 mm. The bottom arm, attached to the
bottom of the cylinder also shortened. I shortened mine to 65 mm.
No breaking action required after short hops, except final stop (I still
haven't flown yet, except 3-5 ft in the air).
Leo Gates
N601Z
-------Original Message-------
From: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Brake ?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" <jeffglass@starband
net>
What is the date of the plans showing the latest toe brake geometry? And
what is the page or drawing call out?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leo Gates
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Brake ?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo Gates" <leogates@allvantage.com>
-------Original Message-------
From: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Brake ?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
Aaron
I have a CH601HDS taildragger with factory suppled Maco breaks and rudder
pedals. I received my kit in 1997, so I had to modify the toe break
geometry to the latest ZAC configuration.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL POH, Anybody Got One ? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Al Young" <armyret@one-eleven.net>
Bill- I found the Pilot Handbook and Owners Manual by Thomas Brown,
(Spruce P/N 13-16410 $29.95) was just the thing I needed. Just fill in the
blanks for your aircraft/engine and your done. I even took my builders log
off my computer, printed it and took it to a Office supply store and had the
pages reduced to the size of the handbook , punched holes in the pages and
put it in the handbook. It seems a little pricy but the work it saves is
wonderful. Also you have a hardback document that has all the info you need
in flight, including emergency proceedures, check lists, performance data
etc etc. Good Luck-
Al Young
XL- Jab 3300 Installing Instrument Panel.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
List . . . I'm not there yet, but I've heard of builders who put a valve in
the brake line.that is readily accessible from the cockpit. To activate a
parking brake, push the brakes on very hard, turn the valve, and the trapped
line pressure between the valve and the brake pads serves as a parking
brake.
Along these same lines, when I was learning to fly my Piper Dakota which had
individual toe brakes which sometimes resulted in uneven braking, my mentor
/ instructor told me on a normal landing to use the parking brake handle to
apply the brakes (assuming one is lined up on the centerline) since equal
pressure will be applied to both wheels. I used to pump the lever like one
does with a car brake, and it worked like a charm for 8 years. Robert
Schoenberger 701 45%
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Corriveau" <grantc@ca.inter.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: parking brake?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>
>> ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
>> while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
>> acting as a sail.
>
> Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
> simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
> --
> Grant Corriveau
> C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Good day Listers:
I understand the early Piper Cherokee series did not have toe brakes at all
- just the handle.
If I am not mistaken the Parking Brake Hydraulic Valve can be found in none
other than J.C. Whitney, in the Airfraft section (just kidding). I thought I
saw them in the Dune Buggy section !!
Tracy
601XL
tail 85%
do not archive
In a message dated 1/4/2005 9:27:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
hrs1@frontiernet.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
<hrs1@frontiernet.net>
List . . . I'm not there yet, but I've heard of builders who put a valve in
the brake line.that is readily accessible from the cockpit. To activate a
parking brake, push the brakes on very hard, turn the valve, and the trapped
line pressure between the valve and the brake pads serves as a parking
brake.
Along these same lines, when I was learning to fly my Piper Dakota which had
individual toe brakes which sometimes resulted in uneven braking, my mentor
/ instructor told me on a normal landing to use the parking brake handle to
apply the brakes (assuming one is lined up on the centerline) since equal
pressure will be applied to both wheels. I used to pump the lever like one
does with a car brake, and it worked like a charm for 8 years. Robert
Schoenberger 701 45%
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Corriveau" <grantc@ca.inter.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: parking brake?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>
>> ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
>> while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
>> acting as a sail.
>
> Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
> simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
> --
> Grant Corriveau
> C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <lrm@isp.com>
I got mine from Aircraft Spruce, it's a Maco hydraulic dual lock, seems to
work great, about $100 give or take a little. Larry N1345L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Corriveau" <grantc@ca.inter.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: parking brake?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>
> > ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
> > while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
> > acting as a sail.
>
> Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
> simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
> --
> Grant Corriveau
> C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: Question before first engine run |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Philip Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
Question before first engine run
Try locating a large capacity car battery and turn over the engine with the
mags off and plugs out until there is oil pressure shows on your pressure
gauge. Rotating the innards of your engine at 500 rpm with the starter to
get oil pressure prior to actual, real start will ensure oil is where it
needs to be when you light it off for real./
Message 10
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| Subject: | Question before first engine run |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Hope this helps. If you're using a standard aircraft ignition switch
from Aircraft Spruce, that switch provides a ground when 'off' and an
open when 'on' to operate a magneto ignition system. If your ignition
is like mine, you need an automotive type ignition switch that will
conduct the 12 volts when turned on. I got caught by this situation
when building my plane. Gave the ignition switch to a fella with a
Continental engine. It worked fine for him.
Jim Weston
601HDS w/Stratus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trevor Page
Subject: Zenith-List: Question before first engine run
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Listers, I was hoping you can shed some light on something for me since
you've all been very helpful.
First, a little history. I purchased an older used Rotax 912UL some
months ago for my 601HD project which I'm almost done with. This engine
is an older UL model I believe since I has the electronics in an
external aluminum box. I have just finished the firewall-forward
installation today and filled up the engine with all fluids, except for
fuel in order to try a test run this week.
I have everything wired up correctly, the engine turns over when I apply
main power and turn the key (I'm using an Aircraft Spruce ignition with
key).
I removed 1 spark plug to check for spark (holding the plug against the
intake manifold for grounding) and turning the key. I do not see a
spark.
I tried on another spark plug, same thing.
My question is:
Am I supposed to see a spark? My understanding of regular engines is
that I'm supposed to.
Now, in light of this I should tell you a couple more things because I'm
at a loss to explain the lack of spark.
1. The electronic box I mentioned does not have any mag wires coming out
of it. Only 2 spade connectors on the bottom of the unit. I hooked my
mag wires to those since that's the only logical place I can think of. I
have a picture of the box if anyone wants to see what I'm talking about.
2. I changed the older original EYQUEM plugs to regular DCPR7E plugs as
per Tech bulletin 912-01. The only deviation was that I used NGK 120
plug connectors which are of resistor type instead of the NGK units that
Rotax uses.
At first I thought that my plug connectors having resistors was impeding
the spark but according to the tech bulletin both the plugs and
connectors Rotax recommends have resistors as well.
Maybe I didn't wire the ignition properly? I spent a lot of time wiring
that little guy and I tested every connection in my electrical system
with a meter as I went along, so far I do not have any problems other
than a severe drop in voltage when turning over the engine (my EIS seems
to turn on and off at each revolution). That I don't care about too much
as long as it settles once the engine is running.
Any thoughts on what I should test/change would be greatly appreciated.
I want to make sure I'm not worrying about something that is moot before
I go too far.
Trevor Page
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried" <rfg842@cox.net>
Tom
In testing the electrical there is one thing I found you can't use; and
that's hooking a charger directly to the system without a battery. Some of
the units would not work, such as my Aeroflash strobes.
Use a battery and if needed, a charger to the battery. It's great to test
all of the wiring before it gets buried.
Bob, Wichita
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Yes, The most simple and lightweighrt are 4 pieces of 3" aluminum angle, tied
with a rope in pairs, one pair for each main wheel...
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not Archive
Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau
> ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
> while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
> acting as a sail.
Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
---------------------------------
Send a seasonal email greeting and help others. Do good.
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
Add a cable to stop the canopy from opening too far. I bent the ball joint
arms when I opened mine facing downwind. If the restraint stretches it isn't
doing the job.
Leo Corbalis
601HDS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 Canopy
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>
> Question for the group:
>
> The 601 canopy, when open, could be a large wind sail. Has anybody
experienced breakage of the
> canopy or its connecting rod and damper in strong winds?
>
> Is it a smart idea to add a bungee or spring to make sure the canopy does
not open too far and
> damage the damper/rods?
>
> Jim Pellien
> Mid-Atlantic Region
> SportsPlanes.com
> 703-851-9375
> www.sportsplanes.com
> jim@sportsplanes.com
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
I put one on mine. There are some master cyl. that have a spring loaded
P.B. tap on the shaft. There are little grooves cut for it to catch on.
Pull the cable step on the brake and it's set. Step on the brake and it
releases. Just change them and your set.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>
> > ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
> > while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
> > acting as a sail.
>
> Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
> simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
> --
> Grant Corriveau
> C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks
Brett Ray
www.hog-air.com
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo Gates" <leogates@allvantage.com>
OOOPS!
Shortened the top arm to 32 mm - not 65 mm.
Leo Gates
-------Original Message-------
From: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Brake ?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo Gates" <leogates@allvantage.com>
I bought my kit in 1997 and got drawings 3rd edition 1/95 (old
configuration). I bought the 4th edition, 05/01 when they came out (new
configuration). Check page F18. The Mod was very minor and had to do with
cylinder mounting geometry. The top arm attached to the cylinder plunger is
shortened. I shortened mine to 65 mm. The bottom arm, attached to the
bottom of the cylinder also shortened. I shortened mine to 65 mm.
No breaking action required after short hops, except final stop (I still
haven't flown yet, except 3-5 ft in the air).
Leo Gates
N601Z
-------Original Message-------
From: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Brake ?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" <jeffglass@starband
net>
What is the date of the plans showing the latest toe brake geometry? And
what is the page or drawing call out?
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Be careful with the master cylinder parking brake lock. I understand that
some have had inadvertent brake actuation after going inverted. They then to
their surprise find the parking brake on when they try a landing.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: parking brake?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
>
> I put one on mine. There are some master cyl. that have a spring loaded
> P.B. tap on the shaft. There are little grooves cut for it to catch on.
> Pull the cable step on the brake and it's set. Step on the brake and it
> releases. Just change them and your set.
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> >
> > > ...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
> > > while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
> > > acting as a sail.
> >
> > Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
> > simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
> > --
> > Grant Corriveau
> > C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Thanks
> Brett Ray
> www.hog-air.com
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
That's exactly what I installed. It is mounted on the
FW behind the pedals. See:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP01855.JPG
Interestingly, the arm is at 45 degrees up for the
unlock position and 45 degrees down for locked. And
it is important to restrict the movement as the valve
could be closed when you don't want it to.
It works very well.
Michel
--- Larry Martin <lrm@isp.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin"
> <lrm@isp.com>
>
> I got mine from Aircraft Spruce, it's a Maco
> hydraulic dual lock, seems to
> work great, about $100 give or take a little. Larry
> N1345L
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 18
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| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net>
Just as a suggestion,
Is there a way to pressurize the tank a little through a fuel line? Is it
possible that there is a vacuum holding it into place? Are you able to
rotate it enough so that it would be free of any obstruction. Just some
thoughts, Wayne
> Dear Thread Friends, I was about to attach my wings yesterday when I
> decided
> a fuel tank leak test would be just the thing to do before hand. I have
> the
> flush type caps on the wing tanks that are gray and have a short thermos
> type
> handle for engaging and removal. First cap came off fine and fuel test
> was also
> good. Then I tried to get the other bastard off and the cap refuses to
> lift
> out. I taped on it, WD 40'ed it, turned it a tiny bit, even strung safety
> wire
> through the little handle, connected to a large plastic tie and lifted the
> whole wing off the saw horses trying to get it to lift out. Anybody
> suffer this
> same shame? I know it worked when I put the tanks in a year ago. Anybody
> got a
> suggestion short of drilling the bugger out and buying another from Mr.
> Spruce? Frustrated in Georgia, Bill
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
I dont think so... The aluminum is very thin to admit much preassure (or vacum)
I think....
We did our weldings test (for leaks) in the kits tanks using a latex condom as
ballon, Sealed the cap, in the gas conection we had a "T" with a valve and in
one side we inflated the condom. It retain the air overnight, so the weldings
were OK.
In fact each tank had a "OK" mark, but we doublechecked, To much problem if the
tank will leak once in the finished wing... in fact ALL the weldings in the
kits were first class.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S (two kits) one flying.
"Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers"
Just as a suggestion,
Is there a way to pressurize the tank a little through a fuel line? Is it
possible that there is a vacuum holding it into place? Are you able to
rotate it enough so that it would be free of any obstruction. Just some
thoughts, Wayne
> Dear Thread Friends, I was about to attach my wings yesterday when I
> decided
> a fuel tank leak test would be just the thing to do before hand. I have
> the
> flush type caps on the wing tanks that are gray and have a short thermos
> type
> handle for engaging and removal. First cap came off fine and fuel test
> was also
> good. Then I tried to get the other bastard off and the cap refuses to
> lift
> out. I taped on it, WD 40'ed it, turned it a tiny bit, even strung safety
> wire
> through the little handle, connected to a large plastic tie and lifted the
> whole wing off the saw horses trying to get it to lift out. Anybody
> suffer this
> same shame? I know it worked when I put the tanks in a year ago. Anybody
> got a
> suggestion short of drilling the bugger out and buying another from Mr.
> Spruce? Frustrated in Georgia, Bill
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ZMAN601XL@aol.com
I have the same problem with my right wing fuel tank.It sounds like I have
the same flush cap as you do.I too have tried several things to get it off,but
it won't budge.I can see a real thin bead of something that might be a sealer
where the cap engages the tank structure.I was thinking that Zenith might have
used some sealer under the cap when they pressure tested the tank.I am going
to e-mail Zenith and see if they have any ideas.I am also going to dig out the
left tank and see how that one is.
Bob Haring(601XL)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Zodiac XL elevator sensitivity reduction? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
Hello List,
I got a chance to fly Kent Bauer's XL the other day. What a wonderful
aircraft. I placed an order for the rest of the kit. I figured the I ought
to fly it first before I make the big plunge. I was very impressed.
I also agree that the control harmony is a little off.. I got used to it
fairly quickly. I did a series of steep bank turns. After a couple of roll
ins and roll outs it felt better. The landings went fine. However, I have
to agree that reducing the authority might be a good idea.
Has any one had any success with this?
One more impression, I thought the rudder was kind of stiff. It would
almost stay where you placed it and did not really seem to center when you
took your feet off the rudder. Again it wasn't that big of a deal but
noticeable. Has anyone else experienced the rudder stiffness?
Bottom line; I bought the rest of the kit. These small quirks are not big
ones. But I have to believe that some are fixable.
Cheers
Matt
601XL empennage 65%
----- Original Message -----
From: <DEGlass1@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Zodiac XL elevator sensitivity reduction?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: DEGlass1@aol.com
>
> HNY05, Listers, and thanks for all the great tips!
>
> As I build the fuse of the XL, I've been thinking about the elevator
> sensitivity found in the demo plane ride at Zenith. The proportion of
> aileron
> deflection force to elevator force seems very high, and makes for a
> "jumpy" ride,
> at least to this low-time pilot.
> Already considering piano hinges for the ailerons, I'd like to get your
> thoughts on a couple of elevator control mods:
> - reducing the elevator throw per stick deflection, by connecting to
> points
> on the stick a little closer to the hinge point;
> - adding a small viscous damper cylinder to the bottom of the stick, that
> would simulate elevator surface force, and slow down the pitch
> sensitivity.
>
> How is the elevator sensitivity working out for those already flying?
> What
> would you change?
>
> Thanks-
>
> David Glass
> Forest, VA
> Zodiac XL fuse, panel and engine
> Partnered with my brother-in-law, the flying-surfaces builder
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
John, Yes I checked that. In fact I blew in the fuel line with lung power
until I could hear the sides of the tank expand, still nothing ? Thanks for the
idea anyway, Bill
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I am using the Usher fuel cap and I don't know if we
are talking about the same cap, but I have similar
difficulties. Especially in cold weather.
My cap uses a Viton O-ring that when compressed
expands to seal the hole. Viton, while resisting well
to fuel looses flexibility (becomes hard) at cold
temperature. Would there be another good o-ring
material that would be more suitable for cold weather
(while being automotive fuel resistant)?
OH... I started lubricating the o-ring with engine oil
(just a bit). It is better.
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: parking brake? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
In Tony Bingelis book "Sportplane Construction Techniques" page 251
this type of parking brake is shown. It is just like the one that was on
my Grumann Cheetah and like the one I put on my 601HD. The way you make
sure that there is no unintentional braking is to put a spring over the
shaft to keep the locking tabs down when not it use.
Tim Shankland
cgalley wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Be careful with the master cylinder parking brake lock. I understand that
>some have had inadvertent brake actuation after going inverted. They then to
>their surprise find the parking brake on when they try a landing.
>
>Cy Galley
>EAA Safety Programs Editor
>Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: parking brake?
>
>
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brett " <brett@hog-air.com>
>>
>>I put one on mine. There are some master cyl. that have a spring loaded
>>P.B. tap on the shaft. There are little grooves cut for it to catch on.
>>Pull the cable step on the brake and it's set. Step on the brake and it
>>releases. Just change them and your set.
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>...Yes, I've found myself rolling along
>>>>while sitting on the centerwing, legs over the front, with strap taut
>>>>acting as a sail.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Which raises another question... has anyone found an easy, lightweight,
>>>simple and effective way to install a parking brake?
>>>--
>>>Grant Corriveau
>>>C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Thanks
>>Brett Ray
>>www.hog-air.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
Hi List.
I am finished with my 601 HD project. The FAA can't do an inspection until
mid April to May. They suggest I use a DAR. Does anyone know what the normal
fee is that they charge? I live in rural southwest VA near TN, KY, WV and
NC. Anyone know of a DAR in this area'
Thanks
John
Message 26
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Hi John,
I am sure things vary in different parts of the country, but here in
Georgia I contacted our MIDO office ( think it's Manufacturing
Inspections District Office) of the FAA and they were very helpful and
sent a list of DARs within a hundred miles or so of me. Again prices
will vary but here they seem to run from $400 to as much as $600. Some
folks swear by them and others swear at them. At least you can
"interview" them on the phone before engaging one of them. The one I
thought about using made the statement that he would never pass a plane
that didn't have conventional aileron hinges on it. He had never heard
of Chris' research on the hingeless aileron. That did it for me and
I'm going the MIDO route.
Sure wish you luck. I know you want to get in the air sooner than
April or May.
Ron DeWees
N601TD
john H wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi List.
>I am finished with my 601 HD project. The FAA can't do an inspection until
>mid April to May. They suggest I use a DAR. Does anyone know what the normal
>fee is that they charge? I live in rural southwest VA near TN, KY, WV and
>NC. Anyone know of a DAR in this area'
>Thanks
>John
>
>
do not archive
Message 27
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 1/4/2005 6:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
professor71@hotmail.com writes:
>
> Hi List.
> I am finished with my 601 HD project. The FAA can't do an inspection until
> mid April to May. They suggest I use a DAR. Does anyone know what the normal
>
> fee is that they charge? I live in rural southwest VA near TN, KY, WV and
> NC. Anyone know of a DAR in this area'
> Thanks
> John
>
I called the local Faa office here in Wyoming and found out real quick they
DON'T do inspections. They referred me to the ONLY one they appove in the
state. Nice guy,was very competent. It cost me 400.00 + travel costs which were
75.00. After I was issued the certificate I did call the Faa's office and told
them "good luck on me ever cooperating with you guys on ANY matter in the
future". Seems they want to eat doughnuts and pass the buck and still draw a
paycheck from the very fund we aviators pay into. No wonder the Feds are 8 TRILLION
in debt...
Ben Haas N801BH Jackson Hole Wy...
Message 28
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| Subject: | Spark problems on Rotax 912 again... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
So today was nice, pulled the plane out, tied her down, chocked it,
added a little fuel and gave her a test. She will not fire up.
Now, I have fuel in the lines, carb bowls are full. I removed a couple
of plugs and there is the smell of fuel. Squirted in a teeny bit of
fuel in each jug and tried again. Nothing.
So I removed all the top plugs and tested for spark. Nothing. So I'm
back to square one. Yesterday I had spark on 2 plugs (I only checked a
couple) and today I get nothing. Now I haven't changed anything since
yesterday. My mind keeps going back to the battery perhaps not having
enough oomph to get that magical 220RPM. The engine seems to turn over
with plenty of gusto however. I don't have a timing light and I seem to
have misplaced my jumper cables as I wanted to try jumping the plane
from my car just to see if the bat is at fault. My battery is a
Panasonic 18AMP gel battery. I don't mind changing it if required but
is 18AMPs enough? Do more AMPs give me more RPM for starting?
Is there something I'm missing or I can test this spark problem?
Thanks a million!
Trev
Message 29
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| Subject: | 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Bill--
From some of the other replies this is apparently a common prblem. I also
experience
fuel caps that stuck in place. Lots of patience and prying with sharp pointy
objects,
air turning blue, and a little luck, I got them out. Ended up sanding them
down and
applying vaseline. They work fine now. Keep trying it will come out
George May
601XL
>From: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: 601 XL FLush Fuel Caps Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2005 00:52:12
>EST
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Dear Thread Friends, I was about to attach my wings yesterday when I
>decided
>a fuel tank leak test would be just the thing to do before hand. I have the
>flush type caps on the wing tanks that are gray and have a short thermos
>type
>handle for engaging and removal. First cap came off fine and fuel test was
>also
>good. Then I tried to get the other bastard off and the cap refuses to lift
>out. I taped on it, WD 40'ed it, turned it a tiny bit, even strung safety
>wire
>through the little handle, connected to a large plastic tie and lifted the
>whole wing off the saw horses trying to get it to lift out. Anybody suffer
>this
>same shame? I know it worked when I put the tanks in a year ago. Anybody
>got a
>suggestion short of drilling the bugger out and buying another from Mr.
>Spruce? Frustrated in Georgia, Bill
>
>
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 30
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mike H" <mhilderbrand@cox.net>
I cannot speak for the FSDOin your area. I have heard the FAA saying
similar things to other people, including myself, regarding the time issue,
especially with experimental ac. (they also suggested that I use a DAR.) The
DARs in ks, that I talked to, wanted way too much money! I took the plunge
and proceded with my local FSDO office. It turned out to be a very positive
experience! They were out within 2 weeks, not 2-3 months like they told me.
Originally, they said they had paper work backed up for months, different
projects they were working on..etc. etc..etc! I hope you find something
that works for you!
Michael H
----- Original Message -----
From: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: DAR Costs
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi List.
> I am finished with my 601 HD project. The FAA can't do an inspection until
> mid April to May. They suggest I use a DAR. Does anyone know what the
normal
> fee is that they charge? I live in rural southwest VA near TN, KY, WV and
> NC. Anyone know of a DAR in this area'
> Thanks
> John
>
>
Message 31
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mike H" <mhilderbrand@cox.net>
That is too bad. I phyisically went to the FSDO dept in person. Talked with
the superivor in charge (giving them my paper work and pictures of the
plane) he assigned the inspection to a couple guys, gave me their names.
said if they don't call me within a week, to call them. They called me back
within 3 days. had the inspection within 2 weeks. The guys were very
friendly!
(I don't work for the faa)
Michael H
I called the local Faa office here in Wyoming and found out real quick they
> DON'T do inspections. They referred me to the ONLY one they appove in the
> state. Nice guy,was very competent. It cost me 400.00 + travel costs which
were
> 75.00. After I was issued the certificate I did call the Faa's office and
told
> them "good luck on me ever cooperating with you guys on ANY matter in the
> future". Seems they want to eat doughnuts and pass the buck and still draw
a
> paycheck from the very fund we aviators pay into. No wonder the Feds are 8
TRILLION
> in debt...
>
> Ben Haas N801BH Jackson Hole Wy...
----- Original Message -----
From: <Benford2@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: DAR Costs
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/4/2005 6:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> professor71@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > >
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Zodiac crash at PAE |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: j.breit@comcast.net
I think George Swinford may have answered this question, but I was the one that
crashed. I had a little over 8 hours on my CH601HDS (Stratus powered) N826JB.
Had added a oil cooler and did some fuel mods that seemed to be working well.
But I have favored the long runway at Paine (9100') because you can land straight
on if you have a problem. Problem is that you have to share it with the big
guys. According to NTSB a 777 was in front of me when I was doing touch and
gos and conditions were ideal for wake turbulence (little or no wind to blow
the vortex away). I had the 3 minute warning and even asked the tower if I should
hold on the runway after landing on my first touch and go. Tower came back
with "we gave you the 3 minute warning and you're cleared for takeoff". As I
started to take off I rolled to the right and couldn't recover. Airplane spun
around, sheared the left gear and dropped the nose on the ground bending nose
gear, shearing the prop, causing some engine damage a
nd smashing up cowl and some of the front fuselage. Luckily it didn't roll. The
cockpit remained pretty well intact though and I was able to shut things down
and jump out of the airplane. Had a sprained right ankle which I found out a
few days later was broken. I also had a pretty good welt from the sholder harness.
I was insured and I'm hoping I come out well enough to use the HDS for salvage
and build an XL. We were able to get the airplane back to the hanger and
despite it esentially being totaled (the rear fuselage and tail were all that
remained unschathed) all the control cables were still connect to the control
surfaces. I really liked that airplane and I was really impressed with how it
stood up in the crash.
Joe Breit
j.breit@comcast.net
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Sigmo@aol.com
>
> Does anyone know who's Zodiac crashed at Paine field (PAE) in Everett or what
> happened?
> The local papers are, as usual, very vague.
>
> Mike Sigman
> 601XL
>
>
>
>
>
>
I think George Swinford may have answered this question, but I was the one that
crashed. I had a little over 8 hours on my CH601HDS (Stratus powered) N826JB.
Had added a oil cooler and did some fuel mods that seemed to be working well.
But I have favored the long runway at Paine (9100') because you can land straight
on if you have a problem. Problem is that you have to share it with the big
guys. According to NTSB a 777 was in front of me when I was doing touch and
gos and conditions were ideal for wake turbulence (little or no wind to blow
the vortex away). I had the 3 minute warning and even asked the tower if I should
hold on the runway after landing on my first touch and go. Tower came back
with "we gave you the 3 minute warning and you're cleared for takeoff". As I
started to take off I rolled to the right and couldn't recover. Airplane spun
around, sheared the left gear and dropped the nose on the ground bending nose
gear, shearing the prop, causing some engine dam
age and smashing up cowl and some of the front fuselage. Luckily it didn't roll.
The cockpit remained pretty well intact though and I was able to shut things
down and jump out of the airplane. Had a sprained right ankle which I found
out a few days later was broken. I also had a pretty good welt from the sholder
harness. I was insured and I'm hoping I come out well enough to use the HDS
for salvage and build an XL. We were able to get the airplane back to the hanger
and despite it esentially being totaled (the rear fuselage and tail were all
that remained unschathed) all the control cables were still connect to the control
surfaces. I really liked that airplane and I was really impressed with
how it stood up in the crash.
Joe Breit
j.breit@comcast.net
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Zenith-List message posted by: Sigmo@aol.com
Does anyone know who's Zodiac crashed at Paine field (PAE) in Everett or what
happened?
The local papers are, as usual, very vague.
Mike Sigman
601XL
ubscription
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Spark problems on Rotax 912 again... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Greg Ferris" <ferret@wmtel.net>
A few things to check:
1. Take the coil grounding wires off the intake manifold and clean-up the
terminals and re-install. Several people (me included) have run into
corrosion on the terminals that increases the resistance and affects the
spark.
2. Verify the gap on the plugs is correct
3. Verify that the throttles are completely closed when you are starting
(cables are set properly).
Hopefully something above helps.
Greg
On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 21:14:09 -0500, Trevor Page wrote
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
>
> So today was nice, pulled the plane out, tied her down, chocked it,
> added a little fuel and gave her a test. She will not fire up.
>
> Now, I have fuel in the lines, carb bowls are full. I removed a
> couple of plugs and there is the smell of fuel. Squirted in a teeny
> bit of fuel in each jug and tried again. Nothing. So I removed all
> the top plugs and tested for spark. Nothing. So I'm back to square
> one. Yesterday I had spark on 2 plugs (I only checked a couple) and
> today I get nothing. Now I haven't changed anything since yesterday.
> My mind keeps going back to the battery perhaps not having enough
> oomph to get that magical 220RPM. The engine seems to turn over with
> plenty of gusto however. I don't have a timing light and I seem to
> have misplaced my jumper cables as I wanted to try jumping the plane
> from my car just to see if the bat is at fault. My battery is a
> Panasonic 18AMP gel battery. I don't mind changing it if required
> but is 18AMPs enough? Do more AMPs give me more RPM for starting?
>
> Is there something I'm missing or I can test this spark problem?
>
> Thanks a million!
>
> Trev
>
--
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