---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 02/09/05: 27 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:15 AM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Jeffrey Glasserow) 2. 06:44 AM - Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot (Bohannon Larry) 3. 07:27 AM - Yamaha boots (Tom Faulkner) 4. 07:58 AM - Re: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot (Jack Russell) 5. 08:30 AM - Re: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending (george may) 6. 08:34 AM - Re: drill bits (george may) 7. 09:03 AM - Re: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending (Mark Townsend) 8. 09:29 AM - Re: drill bits (Monty Graves) 9. 09:45 AM - Re: drill bits (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)) 10. 09:49 AM - Yamaha boots (Zed Smith) 11. 10:01 AM - metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (Bohannon Larry) 12. 10:27 AM - Re: drill bits (george may) 13. 10:57 AM - Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (N5SL) 14. 11:39 AM - Re: drill bits (Jean-Paul Roy) 15. 03:57 PM - Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (Jean-Paul Roy) 16. 04:49 PM - Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL (Joemotis@aol.com) 17. 06:33 PM - Re: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL (george may) 18. 06:50 PM - Re: Yamaha boots (Jeffrey Glasserow) 19. 07:18 PM - Re: drill bits (Jim Frisby) 20. 07:19 PM - Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (Larry Martin) 21. 07:21 PM - 801 pictures (Rmtnview@aol.com) 22. 07:35 PM - Re: 801 pictures (Jon Croke) 23. 07:39 PM - Re: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL (Cdngoose) 24. 08:07 PM - Joe's Fuel Pump installation. (Cdngoose) 25. 08:21 PM - More twist drills (Randy L. Thwing) 26. 09:20 PM - Re: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot (Ken Szewc) 27. 11:32 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 02/08/05 (john butterfield) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:15:19 AM PST US From: "Jeffrey Glasserow" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601 HDS for sale clamav-milter version 0.80j on hestia --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" I paid $29,000 for mine and have no put about $4000 more into it. It has an 0-235, good radios, new paint. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601 HDS for sale --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" Not sure I quite agree with this statement. I got $31k into my HDS without paint. I have never seen an HDS with an asking price of more than about $28 with paint. Frank Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Barth Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 HDS for sale --> Zenith-List message posted by: David Barth I think as a rule projects sell at a rather steep discount from the costs involved. On aircraft with their test time flown off there is probably a bit of a premium over the costs that could be had from a sale. The difference between the expected premium and possible discount is what you earn by completing and test flying the project (turning the project into an aircarft) premium and discount you will have to estimate in order to see if it is worth your time. Good Luck David do not archive Charles Heathco wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" I bought a ready to fly HDS,Sub engine with Ram performance heads, taken apart for hauling, back in Nov, and on the way to pick it up I bought a flying RV. Probably should have reniged on the HDS deal, but Im the "committed" type (not to be confused with relationships :-) ) Its apart in my garage. Anyone interested? Also,if it was yours would you sell it taken apart, or put it back together, get inspections, test fly and sell then? I have pix of it together. Email me, Charlie Heathco David Barth 601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done? Working on Wings www.ch601.org --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:44:13 AM PST US From: "Bohannon Larry" Subject: Zenith-List: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot 0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" I'm installing the Yamaha bellows rubber boot for the steering rods on my 701. Regarding the 3/4 " hole in the boot that needs to be reduced to the rod diameter I have found several different bushings. One will reduced the hole to within about 1/16 of the rod diameter and thus allow the rod to move freely through the bushing. The other completely seals tight around the rod which allows no movement of the rod through the bushing but it looks like the bellows will allow enough push/pull to turn the nosewheel. Anybody who has installed the boots please let me know what method you used. Thanks Larry Bohannon Winder, Georgia Bohannon Larry bohannon54@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:27:00 AM PST US From: "Tom Faulkner" Subject: Zenith-List: Yamaha boots --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tom Faulkner" Larry: I installed the Yamaha boots on my 801 and used a rubber grommet to fill the holes. They don't slide but it works fine. Tom Faulkner N801TP ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:58:30 AM PST US From: Jack Russell Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell Larry. I used a nut and washer on each side of the hole which means that the rod is captive. Works fine. Jack in Clovis ca Bohannon Larry wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" I'm installing the Yamaha bellows rubber boot for the steering rods on my 701. Regarding the 3/4 " hole in the boot that needs to be reduced to the rod diameter I have found several different bushings. One will reduced the hole to within about 1/16 of the rod diameter and thus allow the rod to move freely through the bushing. The other completely seals tight around the rod which allows no movement of the rod through the bushing but it looks like the bellows will allow enough push/pull to turn the nosewheel. Anybody who has installed the boots please let me know what method you used. Thanks Larry Bohannon Winder, Georgia Bohannon Larry bohannon54@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:30:10 AM PST US From: "george may" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" David& Mark "There is a bit of a photo journal of the really simple process we used at: http://www.ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm" This is a great bit of work. Sure is a simplified way to bend the leading edges compared to others shown in the past. Do not archive George May > >--------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:34:52 AM PST US From: "george may" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" I tried using a borrowed Drill Doctor but just never got the hang of it. Ended up buying enough bits for the project. For the price, I use them till dull then toss them. Bought them at http://www.advantage-drillbits.com George 601XL >From: "Jean-Paul Roy" >Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits >Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 18:53:37 -0500 > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" > > >Hello, I found using a Drill Doctor sharpener is a great way of maintaining >sharp drill bits. I got model 300 as a Christmas gift and I just love it. >Keeps the bits as new condition. >http://www.drilldoctor.com > >Hope this helps > >Jean-Paul Roy >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Carlos Sa" >To: >Subject: Zenith-List: drill bits > > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa > > > > It may be the quality of the bits I buy localy, but I don't use them for >too long. > > I probably used a dozen or so when building the tail feathers. > > > > The difference between an old and a new bit is noticeable both during >the >drilling and after. > > > > Holes are much cleaner with a new bit. And, when drilling a "sandwich", >an >old drill bit will > > create and turn burns between the parts, thus scratching them. > > > > Even under a cheap magnifying lens you can see when the bit is "formerly >new". > > > > That's my story and I'm sticking to it. > > > > Happy building > > > > Carlos > > > > --- N5SL wrote: > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL > > > > > > Hi John: > > > > > > I purchased two drill bits at my rudder class from ZAC - One of each >size. I built my horiz. > > > stab, elevator and both wings before I ordered another two drill bits. >I have built 3/4 of my > > > fuselage with the two new bits. I used a 9.6-volt, 2-speed DeWalt >cordless drill for most of > > > the holes I drilled with these bits. I used the high speed which is >less than 1600 rpm, but I > > > don't know what it is. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:03:49 AM PST US From: "Mark Townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Simple just got better, I have now finshed those pages on the Nose Skin not 5 min ago Check them out now! You will be amazed :-) I hope Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "george may" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" > > David& Mark > > "There is a bit of a photo journal of > the really simple process we used at: > > http://www.ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm" > > This is a great bit of work. Sure is a simplified way to bend the leading > edges compared to others shown in the past. > > Do not archive > > George May > > > >--------------------------------- > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:29:25 AM PST US From: Monty Graves Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits --> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves Using the #40 drill bit first is pretty much standard in the industry, except by Zenith. As well as using the #40 silver clecos before redrilling. As Matt says the hole will be a lot neater. I believe the RV series come pre drilled with #40 holes. I also have found a lot of local steel supply yards, also carry drill bits in bulk. Mine carries numbered bits too, for considerably less than the air craft supply houses. #40 are 80 cents per bit without shipping. And they are SUPER sharp... And besides that..... its on the way to Lowes... :-) I am not going to try and sharpen an 80 cent drill bit Monty At 08:08 PM 2/8/05 -0600, you wrote: >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" > I have started using a >40 for everything and then redrilling with a 30 or 20. I am much happier >with the results. > >Cheers > >Matt Archer >www.zodiacxl.com ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:45:50 AM PST US Subject: RE: Zenith-List: drill bits From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" RV's come punched with smaller than #40 holes. These are then mostly drilled out to #40 for the rivets....The rivets on RV skins are almost all AN3 vs the AN4 pop rivets used on zenairs. WOW...80 cent drill bits?...where. Frank Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Monty Graves Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits --> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves Using the #40 drill bit first is pretty much standard in the industry, except by Zenith. As well as using the #40 silver clecos before redrilling. As Matt says the hole will be a lot neater. I believe the RV series come pre drilled with #40 holes. I also have found a lot of local steel supply yards, also carry drill bits in bulk. Mine carries numbered bits too, for considerably less than the air craft supply houses. #40 are 80 cents per bit without shipping. And they are SUPER sharp... And besides that..... its on the way to Lowes... :-) I am not going to try and sharpen an 80 cent drill bit Monty At 08:08 PM 2/8/05 -0600, you wrote: >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" > I have started using a >40 for everything and then redrilling with a 30 or 20. I am much >happier with the results. > >Cheers > >Matt Archer >www.zodiacxl.com ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:49:08 AM PST US From: Zed Smith Subject: Zenith-List: Yamaha boots --> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith Seems to me that I wrote it down, maybe on the wall, but now I cant find it...... Were these boots from a snow machine? And does anybody have the Yamaha part number? Thanks, Zed ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:01:53 AM PST US From: "Bohannon Larry" Subject: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets 0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals on the 701 I'm building. This is the first steel part I have primed and I need some advice and opinions on if what I'm doing is O.K. First I wore clean latex gloves and washed the part with Dawn soap while scrubbing with maroon #7441 Scotchbite that ZAC recommended a year or two ago. I then rinsed it real well. I then sprayed it with Metalprep 79 that I bought from Aircraft Spruce,and scrubbed with the scotchbrite. It really cleaned the metal and got the dark coating off. I then hung it up wet to air dry. I didn't dry with a towel or anything because I was afraid I might be putting some contaminants back on the part.. I then went in the house for about 45 minutes for lunch. When I got back I looked at the part to see if it was dry and was shocked to find rust on almost the entire part! In just 45 minutes! I cleaned it off as best as I could and primed with a self etch primer. I have also used the entir e same procedure on a scrap piece of aluminum to test how the primer will work. As far as cleaning both metals the metalprep works great and is the only thing that will really get the handprints off. I never could get the handprints off by just washing with Dawn. Questions: 1. What are the opinions on the above procedure? It's easy and simple and I don't care to use Alodine. 2. To avoid the fast rust should i dry with a clean cloth and/or hairdryer and prime really quick? 3. Since the Dawn doesn't seem to get the handprints off should I eliminate this step or maybe use the dawn 2nd after using the metal prep? Thought maybe it would help neutralize any leftover acid from the metalprep? 4. The metalprep is phosphoric acid and glycol ether and water. Since this provides an etch and the scotchbrite etches and the self etch primer also is this ok or should I eliminate something? 5. Regarding the holes in the rivets. I plan to use the metalprep on the whole plane and although I will rinse well I was thinking about what sort of effect the metalprep (phosphoric acid) might have on the stems in the rivet holes. They might not get rinsed real well. I don't know what they are made out of but if it is some sort of steel I was afraid it might start an immediate rust since I won't be able to dry inside the hole except by air drying. Any and all opinions and/or comments are appreciated. Larry Bohannon Winder, Georgia Bohannon Larry bohannon54@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:27:00 AM PST US From: "george may" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: drill bits --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" Frank-- Check out this link. I ended up paying about .50 cents for #30's & 40's http://www.advantage-drillbits.com George >From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" >Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: Zenith-List: drill bits >Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 09:44:43 -0800 > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" > > >RV's come punched with smaller than #40 holes. These are then mostly >drilled out to #40 for the rivets....The rivets on RV skins are almost >all AN3 vs the AN4 pop rivets used on zenairs. > >WOW...80 cent drill bits?...where. > >Frank > >Do not archive > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Monty >Graves >To: zenith-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves > >Using the #40 drill bit first is pretty much standard in the industry, >except by Zenith. As well as using the #40 silver clecos before >redrilling. As Matt says the hole will be a lot neater. I believe the >RV series come pre drilled with #40 holes. > >I also have found a lot of local steel supply yards, also carry drill >bits >in bulk. Mine carries numbered bits too, for considerably less than >the >air craft supply houses. > >#40 are 80 cents per bit without shipping. And they are SUPER sharp... >And besides that..... its on the way to Lowes... :-) > >I am not going to try and sharpen an 80 cent drill bit > >Monty > > >At 08:08 PM 2/8/05 -0600, you wrote: > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" > > > I have started using a > >40 for everything and then redrilling with a 30 or 20. I am much > >happier with the results. > > > >Cheers > > > >Matt Archer > >www.zodiacxl.com > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:57:10 AM PST US From: N5SL Subject: Re: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL Larry: I left my rudder pedals and some other parts with a plating company last week and asked them to apply an industrial chrome. It's not shiny like a mirror, but has more of a satin look. I think any paint you apply will tend to rub off. Powder coating would be my second choice after the chrome. I think it was Jeff Small's plane I saw the chrome application and it looked fantastic. The quoted cost for the pedals, steering rods, nose gear and steps was $95. I found them in the phone book under "Plating." I'll post photos when I pick up the parts. Scott Laughlin N5SL(Reserved) www.cooknwithgas.com Bohannon Larry wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals on the 701 I'm building. --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:39:27 AM PST US From: "Jean-Paul Roy" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" Hi, have you paid close attention to centering your bit with the centering device. It took me 2-3 times before I got the real hang of it. I watched the video a couple of time to realize that when centering your bit you have to turn it until it comes to the narrowest point and clik into it. Works every time now, small or big. Jean-Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Culp" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Culp" > > I got the Drill Doctor 3000 for Christmas....and; well...so far I'm not > super impressed with the results. > > Maybe it's just me; but I have real trouble getting anything close to a > correct grind on these small bits. There are instructions with it for > sharpenning small bits, but I didn't find that they helped much. My overall > impression was that the Drill Dr is really designed for use for larger bits. > Maybe its is just me....I certainly haven't given up yet....I'm still > trying to get a good point. It was a lot easier on the #20 bits, than the > #30's. > > And while we are on the topic of drilling......I use a electric (plug in > drill) to drill my holes. I found a cordless was way too slow to produce > good results, and I didn't really want the noise/hassle of a compressor > running and dragging a big hose around. so I started looking for a highspeed > plug in drill. It took me a while to find one, but I'm very happy with what > I found. > > It is a pretty rare Makita model. I just bought it new a few months ago: > The Makita model # is 6501, and there is info on Makita's website about it. > It has a 1/4" chuck and 4,500 rpm speed (no variable speed unfortunately). > It seems to be a specialty drill for people like us who want to drill small > diameter holes in metal and therefore need a highspeed relatively low power > drill. Mine works great spins the bit nice and fast for nearly burr-less > holes. The drill is nice and small too.....smaller than a regular corded > drill, and easy to handle. It even comes with a depth stop with a rubber > tip on it. > > It cost me $80 from Amazon (ie: the old "Tool Crib of the North"), but > unfortunately I bought the last one they had back in the fall and now they > say that it is out of stock/discontinued. It seems to be a pretty common > model in the UK, but not very easy to find here in the US/Canada. > > I figured that was a lot better deal than paying $200+ for a nice Souix > pnuematic highspeed drill. > > > Randy > XL, Jabiru(probably?), just starting the wings. > > >From: Rmtnview@aol.com Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com To: > >zenith-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits Date: Tue, 8 > >Feb 2005 19:57:44 EST > > > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com > > > >I was about to ask about a Drill Dr. when this post came up. What a > >coincidence. When I went to the web site, they spoke of the normal 118 > >degree bit sharpener and (of coarse for more money) a sharpener that does > >135 degree points "for metal". Is this necessary or are the bits we use > >normally, the 118 degree anyway? At first I thought "for that much money, I > >can buy a lot of bits". But then I thought, "not at 1:00 in the morning > >when I'm in the shop some Friday night and I pick up my last bit and I > >can't tell which end of the bit I should put in the chuck". That thing > >just might be something nice to have. So if I'm going to acquire such, is > >it worth it to get the fancy/dancy model? As soon as I get this table > >built, flat, level, square, smooth, straight, plumb, PERFECT, then I can > >start on my 801 tail section. Thanks you'uns. rog > > > > > >Forums. > > > > > > Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! > http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:57:48 PM PST US From: "Jean-Paul Roy" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" Ther is a company in Canada that does CERMAKROME. For information on cermakrome, go to the RLD Industries, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada web site. www.rldindustries.com This company coated my muffler on my plane 200 hrs ago. I have never cleaned or polished my exhaust since and it still looks like new. For your infos. J.P. ----- Original Message ----- From: "N5SL" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets > --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL > > Larry: > > I left my rudder pedals and some other parts with a plating company last week and asked them to apply an industrial chrome. It's not shiny like a mirror, but has more of a satin look. I think any paint you apply will tend to rub off. Powder coating would be my second choice after the chrome. I think it was Jeff Small's plane I saw the chrome application and it looked fantastic. The quoted cost for the pedals, steering rods, nose gear and steps was $95. I found them in the phone book under "Plating." > > I'll post photos when I pick up the parts. > > Scott Laughlin > N5SL(Reserved) > www.cooknwithgas.com > > Bohannon Larry wrote: > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" > > Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals on the 701 I'm building. > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:49:43 PM PST US From: Joemotis@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL --> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com Hi list, I have found the lost pictures of my fuel pump setup and will e mail them to anyone interested. Drop me a line off list. Also, still looking for the pics of the worktable jacks using pony clamps. I am sure to find them eventually! Joe Motis 601XL Do not archive ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:14 PM PST US From: "george may" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" Joe-- Why not post them on www.ch601.org? I'm sure lots of XL builders would be interested George >From: Joemotis@aol.com >Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com >To: zenith-list@matronics.com >Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL >Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 19:48:29 EST > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com > >Hi list, >I have found the lost pictures of my fuel pump setup and will e mail them >to >anyone interested. Drop me a line off list. Also, still looking for the >pics >of the worktable jacks using pony clamps. I am sure to find them >eventually! > > >Joe Motis >601XL > >Do not archive > > On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 06:50:13 PM PST US From: "Jeffrey Glasserow" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Yamaha boots clamav-milter version 0.80j on cepheus --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" Search the zenith archives for the article. IF you can't find it I will get you the part #'s Search for Rudder pedal boots. Jeff Glasserow -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Zed Smith Subject: Zenith-List: Yamaha boots --> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith Seems to me that I wrote it down, maybe on the wall, but now I cant find it...... Were these boots from a snow machine? And does anybody have the Yamaha part number? Thanks, Zed ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:20 PM PST US From: "Jim Frisby" Subject: Zenith-List: Re: drill bits --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" I had heard that the Drill Doctor didnt' work well on small bits, like 3/32, #40. I'd buy one if I knew different. How does yours work on small bits? Thanks Jim Frisby Palmer, AK N801ZA >Time: 03:58:05 PM PST US >From: "Jean-Paul Roy" >Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" > > >Hello, I found using a Drill Doctor sharpener is a great way of maintaining >sharp drill bits. I got model 300 as a Christmas gift and I just love it. >Keeps the bits as new condition. >http://www.drilldoctor.com > >Hope this helps > >Jean-Paul Roy ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:19:03 PM PST US From: "Larry Martin" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" Mr. Bohannon, too many Larrys here, actually I don't normally use any kind of soap on bare metal, your acid will clean anything on it. Use paper towels to dry, then wipe it down with acetone or alcohol, both will clean anything off and evaporate and dry very quickly. If you have any thing like scratches or rust, use 320 sandpaper, wipe it down again, then prime and paint. You are putting way too much wasted effort in it. Larry, N1345L www.angelfire.com/un/ch701 PS, I got your order for the tips, will make them soon. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bohannon Larry" Subject: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" > > Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals on the 701 I'm building. This is the first steel part I have primed and I need some advice and opinions on if what I'm doing is O.K. First I wore clean latex gloves and washed the part with Dawn soap while scrubbing with maroon #7441 Scotchbite that ZAC recommended a year or two ago. I then rinsed it real well. I then sprayed it with Metalprep 79 that I bought from Aircraft Spruce,and scrubbed with the scotchbrite. It really cleaned the metal and got the dark coating off. I then hung it up wet to air dry. I didn't dry with a towel or anything because I was afraid I might be putting some contaminants back on the part.. I then went in the house for about 45 minutes for lunch. When I got back I looked at the part to see if it was dry and was shocked to find rust on almost the entire part! In just 45 minutes! I cleaned it off as best as I could and primed with a self etch primer. I have also used the entir > e same procedure on a scrap piece of aluminum to test how the primer will work. As far as cleaning both metals the metalprep works great and is the only thing that will really get the handprints off. I never could get the handprints off by just washing with Dawn. > Questions: 1. What are the opinions on the above procedure? It's easy and simple and I don't care to use Alodine. > 2. To avoid the fast rust should i dry with a clean cloth and/or hairdryer and prime really quick? > 3. Since the Dawn doesn't seem to get the handprints off should I eliminate this step or maybe use the dawn 2nd after using the metal prep? Thought maybe it would help neutralize any leftover acid from the metalprep? > 4. The metalprep is phosphoric acid and glycol ether and water. Since this provides an etch and the scotchbrite etches and the self etch primer also is this ok or should I eliminate something? > 5. Regarding the holes in the rivets. I plan to use the metalprep on the whole plane and although I will rinse well I was thinking about what sort of effect the metalprep (phosphoric acid) might have on the stems in the rivet holes. They might not get rinsed real well. I don't know what they are made out of but if it is some sort of steel I was afraid it might start an immediate rust since I won't be able to dry inside the hole except by air drying. > Any and all opinions and/or comments are appreciated. > > Larry Bohannon > Winder, Georgia > > > Bohannon Larry > bohannon54@earthlink.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/2005 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:21:12 PM PST US From: Rmtnview@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: 801 pictures --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com Does anyone have or know where I could find good pictures of an 801 (other than the Zenith site) that could be used for a desktop? I need a fix. Thanks. rog Roger Osborne Looking at tail kit crate rmtnview@aol.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DowninFlames ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:35:36 PM PST US From: "Jon Croke" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 801 pictures --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" Well,,,, I would like to think that Ben's pictures at http://ch701.com/builders/Ben%20Haas/Ben_Haas.htm are awfully good.... Jon moderator@ch701.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Zenith-List: 801 pictures > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com > > Does anyone have or know where I could find good pictures of an 801 (other > than the Zenith site) that could be used for a desktop? I need a fix. > Thanks. > rog > > Roger Osborne > Looking at tail kit crate > rmtnview@aol.com > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DowninFlames > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:45 PM PST US From: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Actually George, Joe sent me the pictures on November 11th and they were posted in the Builders Resources page under the 601XL section. Everyone can go there to see them. This should save Joe some E-Mail time. Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario Zodiac 601XL EJ 2.2L Osprey 2 serial # 751 www.ch601.org www.Osprey2.com --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" Joe-- Why not post them on www.ch601.org? I'm sure lots of XL builders would be interested George >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com > >Hi list, >I have found the lost pictures of my fuel pump setup and will e mail them >to >anyone interested. Drop me a line off list. Also, still looking for the >pics >of the worktable jacks using pony clamps. I am sure to find them >eventually! > > >Joe Motis >601XL > >Do not archive > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 08:07:00 PM PST US From: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca> Subject: Zenith-List: Joe's Fuel Pump installation. --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca> It would seem that I missed a few pictures Joe had sent me of his fuel installation, I have uploaded them to the same page on the www.ch601.org website and now they are ready for your viewing. Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario Zodiac 601XL EJ 2.2L Osprey 2 serial # 751 www.ch601.org www.ch701.com www.Osprey2.com ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 08:21:30 PM PST US From: "Randy L. Thwing" Subject: Zenith-List: More twist drills --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" This discussion has turned to drill cost so below are two links to MSC Industrial Supply catalogue pages. This link is to their page featuring 118 degree, High Speed steel standard point, polished flute drills: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=15&PARTPG=NNLMK32 Note that for every drill size they offer 5 levels of quality of a like geometry tool. Prices begin at 45 cents for a No. 30 "import" quality. This link is for the 135 degree, cobalt steel split point, polished flute drills: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=24&PARTPG=NNLMK32 Here again they offer the same size and geometry drill in 6 levels of quality beginning with a "production import" at $ 1.01 for a No. 30. Note the terminology difference between "import" and "production import". Import is exactly that and can be mediocre quality whereas production import implies a tool of such quality that can be used in a production situation (such as building ZA airplanes?). I buy from this Company often and no longer buy the "import" level of tool. I often buy the "production import" which is usually a good quality item. I buy a lot of the generic "Made in USA" tools which has always resulted in a good usable tool. If the situation warrants, I sometimes buy the named brand tools which are of high quality and consistent. The big point here is that there is a quality and price level to suit all needs. These pages provide a quick comparison as to how all levels in the market are priced, the bigger the name, the more expensive the tool. Is there a quality difference between Precision twist drill, Chicago-Latrobe, or Cleveland twist drill? I have used all three and many more brands and they are all high quality tool, usually made to the same industrial standards. The above links are long and may wrap after transmission, so be sure you get the whole link. The choices we have in today's market are just extraordinary. You can request MSC's catalogue, it's a biggie, over 4000 pages, also available on CD. Their web address is: www.mscdirect.com Regards, Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:20:56 PM PST US From: Ken Szewc Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot --> Zenith-List message posted by: Ken Szewc I lathed a dumbbell shape out of a Delrin rod, then drilled and tapped it for the size of the steering rods. The width and diameter of the narrow part matched the width and diameter of the hole in the end of the boot. I had already installed the rods so I then cut them in half and installed them in the 3/4 inch end of the boot. I then put a zip tie around the outside of the boot. Plugged the hole very nice and they stay put on the threaded rod. Did any of that make sense? With 850 pictures of my project, I would have thought that I would have had a picture of the steering rod boots, but I can't seem to find one. Ken Szewc N701SZ 80 hrs -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bohannon Larry Subject: Zenith-List: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" I'm installing the Yamaha bellows rubber boot for the steering rods on my 701. Regarding the 3/4 " hole in the boot that needs to be reduced to the rod diameter I have found several different bushings. One will reduced the hole to within about 1/16 of the rod diameter and thus allow the rod to move freely through the bushing. The other completely seals tight around the rod which allows no movement of the rod through the bushing but it looks like the bellows will allow enough push/pull to turn the nosewheel. Anybody who has installed the boots please let me know what method you used. Thanks Larry Bohannon Winder, Georgia Bohannon Larry bohannon54@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 11:32:32 PM PST US From: john butterfield Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 02/08/05 --> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield thanks for the info on the drill bits and motors john Butterfield xl do not archive --- Zenith-List Digest Server wrote: > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete Zenith-List Digest can also be > found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes > the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features > Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the > plain ASCII version > of the Zenith-List Digest and can be viewed with a > generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list/Digest.Zenith-List.2005-02-08.html > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list/Digest.Zenith-List.2005-02-08.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > > > Zenith-List Digest > Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Tue > 02/08/05: 34 > > > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 01:00 AM - Jilson snips (Howard Carter) > 2. 02:09 AM - Re: Jilson snips (Gary) > 3. 04:17 AM - Turn & Bank noise, PTT Squawk, > Oil Cooler opening with Jab3300 > (charles.long@gm.com) > 4. 05:51 AM - Factory Tidbits (Al Young) > 5. 06:58 AM - 601 HDS for sale (Charles > Heathco) > 6. 07:23 AM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Hinde, > Frank George (Corvallis)) > 7. 07:30 AM - LSA Legal or Not? (Paul Moore) > 8. 07:49 AM - N601BZ web site has moved > (BillSewell@aol.com) > 9. 07:50 AM - Re: LSA Legal or Not? (Hinde, > Frank George (Corvallis)) > 10. 08:42 AM - Corvair College in New England > (Hodgson, Mark O) > 11. 09:18 AM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Grady > Adams) > 12. 11:59 AM - Re: New Builders Warning (Kent > Brown) > 13. 12:17 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 > Msgs - 02/05/05 (N5SL) > 14. 12:35 PM - Re: New Builders Warning (Mark > Townsend) > 15. 12:36 PM - 601 XL Nose Skin Bending (David > Barth) > 16. 12:46 PM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (David > Barth) > 17. 12:59 PM - Just a test... (Beckman, Rick) > 18. 01:12 PM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Hinde, > Frank George (Corvallis)) > 19. 01:23 PM - drill bits (Carlos Sa) > 20. 03:23 PM - question Me262 article: OFF Topic > (kevinbonds) > 21. 03:58 PM - Re: drill bits (Jean-Paul Roy) > 22. 03:59 PM - Re: Pietenpol-List: Corvair > College in New England (Kip and Beth Gardner) > 23. 04:12 PM - Re: 601HD instrument panel > (Rick) > 24. 04:41 PM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Don > Walker) > 25. 04:58 PM - Re: drill bits > (Rmtnview@aol.com) > 26. 05:01 PM - Re: New Builders Warning (Kent > Brown) > 27. 05:23 PM - Re: drill bits (Jean-Paul Roy) > 28. 05:26 PM - Re: drill bits (Randy Culp) > 29. 06:09 PM - Re: drill bits (Matt & Jo) > 30. 07:17 PM - Re: New Builders Warning > (Joemotis@aol.com) > 31. 07:24 PM - Dirt Dobber Repellent (Larry > Martin) > 32. 07:31 PM - Twist Drills (Randy L. Thwing) > 33. 11:04 PM - F/S: original CAD 601 plans > (Sigma Eta Aero) > 34. 11:30 PM - Re: Dirt Dobber Repellent (Bryan > Martin) > > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 01:00:39 AM PST US > From: Howard Carter > Subject: Zenith-List: Jilson snips > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Howard Carter > > > Would someone please tell me where to buy these > snips? I've been > looking for something better than Wiss for some > time. > Thanks. > > Howard Carter > howado@cwia.com > > do not archive > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 02:09:37 AM PST US > From: "Gary" > Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Jilson snips > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary" > > > Howard > There are 2 types in the www.aircraft-tool.com > catalogue > parts J1451 Jilson Supersnip shears @39.95 and JS12 > Monodex 26.95 > 1-800-248-0638. Use search feature of the website > > do not archive > > Gary > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On > Behalf Of Howard > Carter > Subject: Zenith-List: Jilson snips > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Howard Carter > > > Would someone please tell me where to buy these > snips? I've been > looking for something better than Wiss for some > time. > Thanks. > > Howard Carter > howado@cwia.com > > do not archive > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 04:17:51 AM PST US > Subject: Zenith-List: Turn & Bank noise, PTT Squawk, > Oil Cooler opening with Jab3300 > From: charles.long@gm.com > 20, 2004) at 02/08/2005 07:15:54 AM, > Serialize complete at 02/08/2005 07:15:54 AM > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: > charles.long@gm.com > > I also have the background Turn and Bank > (Falcon) === message truncated ===