Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:31 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
2. 05:23 AM - Woodcomp CS Prop - excellent! (Grant Corriveau)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Robert Schoenberger)
4. 06:40 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Larry McFarland)
6. 07:06 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Dave & Darlene)
7. 07:30 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
8. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir/ rad. leak (Aaron)
9. 10:59 AM - Re: OT: Flying Around Las Vegas (Traveling Man)
10. 01:47 PM - Woodcomp CS Prop - excellent (norman)
11. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (Aluminum radiators) (Gary Gower)
12. 03:42 PM - Made the Pilgrimage (kevinbonds)
13. 05:10 PM - flying with Michel Therrien (Danny Dubois)
14. 06:06 PM - Re: flying with Michel Therrien (Michel Therrien)
15. 07:17 PM - Re: Re: Matco brake reservoir (DICK WILBERS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Hello Frank:
If you are fairly certain this radiator is from a VW Diesel, the people that
know these parts better than anyone are:
Parts Place
Auburn Hills, MI
248-373-3269
Call them with the dimensions and location of the filler neck (if any) and
they can help you.
If your radiator is aluminum with plastic tanks repairs are just about
impossible, I believe.
Good luck.
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl tail 85%
do not archive
In a message dated 2/27/2005 10:12:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
frank.hinde@hp.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
tiny weep in the front corner....
I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
questions
1) Is there a way to save these rads
2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
that I didn't know the year either.
Thanks
Frank
Message 2
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| Subject: | Woodcomp CS Prop - excellent! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> What engine and prop combination was being used?
Hi Larry,
The engine is a Rotax 912S. The prop is called Woodcomp. It is a
three-bladed composite surface over some sort of wood core (if I understand
correctly).
It is actually a constant speed propellor. For anyone on the list who might
not know, that means that the prop includes a system of automatic inflight
adjustment of the blade angle, which will work to keep the prop spinning at
a selected rpm. So, as the throttle is opened or closed, and assuming the
prop hasn't reached the limits of it's adjustment capability, you see the
tachometer remain steady, but the manifold pressure gauge goes up or down
accordingly. Manifold pressure and rpm must be taken together to know what
percent of full engine power is being used.
Because the Rotax has a drive reduction unit, there are actually two rpm
readings of interest. On GOXL there is an engine RPM gauge next to the man.
press. and there is another small electronic combination prop. tach and
control unit which electronically displays prop actual rpm, and various
other information.
On this flight the climb rpm was being regulated to 2350, which held the
Rotax rpm right below redline. When transitioning to cruise, I just had to
tap on the control button, and the prop would begin to change to 2,000 rpm.
Actually it was initially set to even slower... maybe 1800-1900 or so. But
it is completely 'editable' by the pilot, and I thought that there was just
a little bit of 'lugging' felt in the vibes at the lower rpm, so I tweeked
it up just a bit. Beyond editing the pre-programmed rpms for climb and
cruise, the pilot can switch the prop to manual mode. In that case you can
then tap on 'up' and 'down' buttons to set whatever prop angle you like as
indicated by rpm.
This is about all I know of the prop after using it on this one day. I can
say that it was remarkably smooth and simple to operate and sure seems to
maximize the aircraft's performance and efficiency.
(p.s. I am not an employee of Woodcomp, nor am I being paid for this
endorsement!!! ;-)
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Frank . . . .Back in the days when I was poor and buying new (to me) tires
from the junk yard for $2 - $3, I used a product called Bards (Barrs?) which
looks like rabbit droppings in a black liquid in a small jar to stop
radiator leaks. I'm not sure I'd want to use this with an airplane, but the
stuff never failed to hold. That's a decision you'll have to make. If the
leak is really small, there might not be much risk if monitored both
visually and temperature wise. There are radiator shops which do repair
these guys. Robert Schoenberger 701 50%
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
> tiny weep in the front corner....
>
> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
> questions
>
> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
> that I didn't know the year either.
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Hello Robert:
You were right the second time...it's called Barr's Stop Leak and yes, it
seems to work !!
Have you had success with local radiator shops repairing aluminum radiators
with plastic tanks? Around here the answer is always NO. Lucky dog..(only
kidding !!)
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl tail 85%
do not archive
In a message dated 2/28/2005 9:36:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
hrs1@frontiernet.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
<hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Frank . . . .Back in the days when I was poor and buying new (to me) tires
from the junk yard for $2 - $3, I used a product called Bards (Barrs?) which
looks like rabbit droppings in a black liquid in a small jar to stop
radiator leaks. I'm not sure I'd want to use this with an airplane, but the
stuff never failed to hold. That's a decision you'll have to make. If the
leak is really small, there might not be much risk if monitored both
visually and temperature wise. There are radiator shops which do repair
these guys. Robert Schoenberger 701 50%
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
> tiny weep in the front corner....
>
> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
> questions
>
> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
> that I didn't know the year either.
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Frank,
After checking for VW Rabbit Diesel engine in my auto parts store search, I
find
the year 1986 works for this radiator. ZAC would sell you another probably
not
to expensive as I remember.
Larry McFarland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
> tiny weep in the front corner....
>
> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
> questions
>
> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
> that I didn't know the year either.
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Hi Frank
In my experience with any rad stop leak it's only a temporary fix. It will
work for a while but it will eventually start again and you don't want this
happening when your up in the air. It will also let go if your rad ever gets
too hot or the pressure rises for unknown reasons. A good rad shop will
re-core the rad for you at a reasonable cost and then you've got a new one
again. As long as the tanks on the ends are in good shape then you won't
have a problem re-coring it. They just sweat it off and add new cores. I've
had it done long ago and it it's just as good as new. If there's a rad shop
around you, then check it out. It's not worth the risk for a few dollars.
Dave (Alberta)
99% to go
www.borrowmyhusband.com/Nimigon_601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
> <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>
> Frank . . . .Back in the days when I was poor and buying new (to me) tires
> from the junk yard for $2 - $3, I used a product called Bards (Barrs?)
> which
> looks like rabbit droppings in a black liquid in a small jar to stop
> radiator leaks. I'm not sure I'd want to use this with an airplane, but
> the
> stuff never failed to hold. That's a decision you'll have to make. If the
> leak is really small, there might not be much risk if monitored both
> visually and temperature wise. There are radiator shops which do repair
> these guys. Robert Schoenberger 701 50%
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>>
>> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
>> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
>> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
>> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
>> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
>> tiny weep in the front corner....
>>
>> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
>> questions
>>
>> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
>> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
>> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
>> that I didn't know the year either.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Frank
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Hi larry:
1986?? I show the Rabbit went out of production in '84. No matter, the '86
Gulf diesel shows 2 different radiators available - with or without A/C.
Parts Place shows new at $140 to $180 with used being about 1/2 that.
I hope this helps
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl tail 85%
do not archive
In a message dated 2/28/2005 9:43:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
larrymc@qconline.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Frank,
After checking for VW Rabbit Diesel engine in my auto parts store search, I
find
the year 1986 works for this radiator. ZAC would sell you another probably
not
to expensive as I remember.
Larry McFarland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
> tiny weep in the front corner....
>
> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
> questions
>
> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
> that I didn't know the year either.
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir/ rad. leak |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
>>>>> .Back in the days when I was poor and buying new (to me) tires
from the junk yard for $2 - $3, I used a product called Bards (Barrs?) which
looks like rabbit droppings in a black liquid in a small jar to stop
radiator leaks.<<<<<
There is another product put out by, I beleive, the same people that is
better IMO than the rabbit pellets. It is a pill about the size of a
quarter3/8" thick I saw a demonstration of this compared to other stop leak
products and unlike the other products, it never plugged the flow but did
stop the leaks. It is even recomended as a routine additive, as it has
chemicals to replace those that deterioate in the antifreeze. From my
experience w/ it , I would not hesitate to put it in my aircraft (but would
run the engine on ground before flying).
Aaron
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: OT: Flying Around Las Vegas |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com>
I have to agree with you on all counts Todd. Every spring some friends and
I head to Las Vegas for a weekend of gambling. Last year I met a builder in
Las Vegas (Roy Engelke, you are the MAN! My most sincere thanks once again)
who showed me around his beautiful Zodiac, and then offered me a ride. He
even let me take the controls for a bit. We flew across a very tall ridge
to an airport community, visited with a friend of his there and then headed
back to Henderson field (where he was based). Beautiful, but very univiting
for engine out scearios. I'm in Chicago, and there is nothiong like that
kind of scenery within a days flying. I do treasure that experience.
Bob Lindley
Still nothing but a rudder, sigh.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Woodcomp CS Prop - excellent |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "norman" <normskiroo@ukonline.co.uk>
Hi All,
The Woodcomp website for those interested is -www.woodcomp.cz
I have this combination fitted to my XL and I am very pleased with it.
Norman
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir (Aluminum radiators) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
The problem with the aluminum radiators is that they leak because of corrosion
(sometimes the use of plain water or low quality of atifreeze, time also) once
the corrosion beguins is useless to repair. the cooper ones (old cars) sometimes
leaked because of welds (vibration) or that the veins got little breaks...
corrosion was almost non existent, this little leakes could be repaired
with this products or rewelded... In fact a common mantainace was to removethe
welings from the tanks, clean the tanks and the veins and reweld the tanks
in place. sometimes some beaten veins were "closed"...
The newer aluminum have only one repair: Change for a new one:-(
When the aluminum rad of our Minivan failed last year, I had a new cooper one custom
build by a friend. Is heavy but will outlive the Minivan.
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Robert Schoenberger <hrs1@frontiernet.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
---------------------------------
Frank . . . .Back in the days when I was poor and buying new (to me) tires
from the junk yard for $2 - $3, I used a product called Bards (Barrs?) which
looks like rabbit droppings in a black liquid in a small jar to stop
radiator leaks. I'm not sure I'd want to use this with an airplane, but the
stuff never failed to hold. That's a decision you'll have to make. If the
leak is really small, there might not be much risk if monitored both
visually and temperature wise. There are radiator shops which do repair
these guys. Robert Schoenberger 701 50%
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>
>
> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
> tiny weep in the front corner....
>
> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
> questions
>
> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
> that I didn't know the year either.
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Made the Pilgrimage |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Hello All
Just wanted to let everyone know that Clyde Barcus and I made the pilgrimage
from Nashville Tn to Edgewater Fla this past weekend. William spent a lot of
time with us explaining his rebuilding techniques and giving us a tour of
the shop. Unfortunately we did not get a chance to fly the ZenVair (it was
having wheel pants installed). That was kind of a bummer since we are both
building XL's. It was nice just to see his shop and meet his crew.
Now I know what some of the other guys were talking about when they
described William. I could tell that he takes a lot of pride in what he is
doing. He has a lot invested in aviation (especially homebuilding) and does
not take his job (if you can call it that) lightly. Anyone who owns his
manual knows he spends a lot of time philosophizing on aviation. After you
meet him, you get a sense that he actually means what he says and it's not
all a bunch of marketing jive. I think this is important in our field. It's
the reason I went to meet William. I figured I should probably meet the guy
from which I'm going to take such important advice. I know there is only so
much I can gleam from a couple of hours (actually about 3) spent with
someone (and that ultimately it is my responsibility to build a safe
engine), but it is good, at least, to see that he is genuine in his
intentions. I can safely say that there has been an exhausting amount of
thought put into building a safe and reliable alternative engine by some
friends of mine down in Florida. I feel indebted to anyone whom has done as
much to help me realize my dream.
Thanks, William.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville Tn
601XL Plansbuilder
Message 13
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| Subject: | flying with Michel Therrien |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Danny Dubois" <danny.dubois@sympatico.ca>
HI, gents
This Sunday i had a nice ride in a ch601 hd, the one Michel build.
I did find Michel pretty good piloting is airplane specialy with a big cross
wind, both at take-off and landing
The wind soc was totally at horrital and at an angle of 90 degree.
And the plane fly great, so what a boost I did get to continue building (I'm
building slowly but surely)
Just imagine I brouth my camera and just after 50 min. of flying I realise I
did not take any picture.
So I had 15 min to take some photo...
Thank you Michel
And Happy building and flying to the list
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: flying with Michel Therrien |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Thanks Danny for the nice words and I would say too
nice when you talk about yesterday's landing.
It's true that "they" say a good landing is one where
you can still walk after getting out of the plane. An
excellent one is one where the plane itself is
reusable. ;-)
I put the picture you took of us as my daily picture
(it won't be there for long!). We can see that we can
sit two guys that are just a bit more than standard
passenger weight in there!
Michel
do not archive
--- Danny Dubois <danny.dubois@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> This Sunday i had a nice ride in a ch601 hd, the one
> Michel built.
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Matco brake reservoir |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "DICK WILBERS" <RWILBERS@TAMPABAY.RR.COM>
The stuff is called "Bars Leak". It was a viscous base with the pellets. You
are right, it always worked.
Best...............Dick Wilbers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
> <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>
> Frank . . . .Back in the days when I was poor and buying new (to me) tires
> from the junk yard for $2 - $3, I used a product called Bards (Barrs?)
> which
> looks like rabbit droppings in a black liquid in a small jar to stop
> radiator leaks. I'm not sure I'd want to use this with an airplane, but
> the
> stuff never failed to hold. That's a decision you'll have to make. If the
> leak is really small, there might not be much risk if monitored both
> visually and temperature wise. There are radiator shops which do repair
> these guys. Robert Schoenberger 701 50%
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Matco brake reservoir
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>>
>> Ok so there I was about to pull my brake pedals out to go weld 'em back
>> up...Realised of course thet I had to remove the rad first...Of course
>> didn't have the right tools but finally got it off..removed padals then
>> noticed the distinct but tiny drip of coolant on the front of the
>> rad...AAARG!...I'm sure I didn't damage it but sure enough there is a
>> tiny weep in the front corner....
>>
>> I assume there is little point in trying to save the thing so I have two
>> questions
>>
>> 1) Is there a way to save these rads
>> 2) What is the rad from....I thought it was a 1500 VW diesel but the
>> local parts place could not find it on their computer....Didn't help
>> that I didn't know the year either.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Frank
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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