Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:49 AM - Re: Nose gear questions for 601XL (Rico Voss)
2. 05:05 AM - nose gear questions for 601XL (The Minearts)
3. 05:39 AM - Re: Nose gear questions for 601XL (N5SL)
4. 08:48 AM - Stiffed by the Nose Gear (Tebenkof@aol.com)
5. 10:52 AM - In defence of the Suzy - 1.3L (Bima, Martin)
6. 11:00 AM - Re: cruise speeds (Schemmel, Grant)
7. 12:12 PM - corrosion removal on wheels (Charles Heathco)
8. 12:45 PM - Canopy Thickness - 601XL (N5SL)
9. 01:16 PM - Heat Shrink Tubing (Don Mountain)
10. 01:41 PM - Re: Canopy Thickness - 601XL (Cdngoose)
11. 01:51 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Tubing (N5SL)
12. 01:57 PM - Re: Canopy Thickness - 601XL (N5SL)
13. 02:06 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Tubing (Bill Cardell)
14. 02:10 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Tubing (Paul Moore)
15. 02:14 PM - Re: Heat Shrink Tubing (Craig Payne)
16. 02:59 PM - Re: Canopy Thickness - 601XL (Trevor Page)
17. 03:10 PM - Re: 601XL Flap actuator travel (Bryan Martin)
18. 03:18 PM - Painting (Larry McFarland)
19. 03:42 PM - Re: Canopy Thickness - 601XL (Craig Payne)
20. 05:59 PM - Re: Canopy thickness (Brandon Tucker)
21. 06:10 PM - Re: Nose gear questions for 601XL (Mark Stauffer)
22. 07:54 PM - GEO Engine on a 701 with floats? (Brendan Bartlett)
23. 08:30 PM - Re: GEO Engine on a 701 with floats? (Cdngoose)
24. 10:49 PM - Re: GEO Engine (Bob Reinero)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear questions for 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rico Voss <vozzen@yahoo.com>
--- Mark Stauffer <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Stauffer"
> <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
>
> Fellow builders,
>
> I fabricated the lower bearing support and attached it
> along with the lower
> bearing to the fuselage. I also installed the nose gear.
>
> 1. You can't put the aft bolt through the nose gear
> bottom bearing because
> 6B8-7 Center Firewall Stiffener is in the way. How did
> you get around this?
> Did you a) Drill holes on each side of the stiffener and
> pass the bolt
> through the stiffener and the bearing?
Mark--
1. I believe that's the way it's supposed to be (drilled
thru the stiffener). Make yourself a hole-finder, or use a
jig like shown in the 801 manual that someone sent a link
to. But, BEFORE you drill it, solve #3 problem first.
2. I think the stiff strut is common, and can be helped
with a little lubricant-- silicone grease, lithium,
K-Y.....
> 3. I haven't put the stop plate on yet (6G2-3) but I can
> already see that
> with it in place the steering rod attachments will not be
> sitting down in
> the groove of the bottom bearing. Right now the top of
> the nose gear is
> below the top of 6B7-1 (Firewall Top Stiffener - Front).
> Has anyone else run
> into this?
3. Had same problem. I had to shim up the lower bearing a
full 1/8" for the top of the strut to be flush with the
Firewall top stiffener at the same time as the steering
rods rested in the lower bearing. I also stuck a shim of
.025 under the upper stop plate, to make sure the load was
shared with the steering rods. I felt that was important.
My $.02,
Rico, XL/3300, waiting my return to dry land. . .
__________________________________
Message 2
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| Subject: | nose gear questions for 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "The Minearts" <smineart@kdsi.net>
I spoke with Nick H. last week about the clearance issue of the cross bolt and
firewall stiffener. He recommended drilling through the stiffener and passing
the bolt through. Also, I used shims in the space between the channel and the
nylon block.
Steve Mineart, 601XL/Wynne-Corvair
Do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear questions for 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hi Mark:
I recently installed my nose gear several times in the process of installing all
the parts and I have a few comments on your questions:
1. I just drilled a large hole on each side of the center stiffener so I could
access the bolt head and nut.
2. Mine was very tight upon initial installation. The last time I installed all
the parts including the steering rods, I applied some grease and it made a
huge difference.
3. I ended up with the opposite issue- the top plate is above the top of the firewall
stiffener slightly. If I would have had the top plate touching, I would
not hesitate to add a shim or re-make the bottom bearing a little thicker.
You can see it in this photo:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/2_19_05_Nosewheel.jpg
I couldn't tell from your email, but I'm assuming you didn't install the bungee
yet. This adds another force to stiffen the system. I find the force to push
the rudder pedals not excessive and it seems to work well with everything installed.
I can take some closup photos if you would like to see anything in particular.
Have a good day,
Scott Laughlin
N5SL (Reserved)
www.cooknwithgas.com
601XL/Corvair
Working on Instrument Panel
Mark Stauffer <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com> wrote:
I fabricated the lower bearing support and attached it along with the lower
bearing to the fuselage. I also installed the nose gear.
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Stiffed by the Nose Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tebenkof@aol.com
To any who still have stiff nosegear, and those who helped me figure this
out,
After writing the list about very stiff nose gear, and considering the
responses, I did the following: I removed and built new aluminum angle and nylon
inserts for the bottom bearing surface on which the nosegear rests. I
completely eliminated the "self centering V", and made sure the nylon surface
was
very smooth. I also added a nylon plate for a bearing surface at the top of
the nosegear, which many people seem to have done. I simply used longer bolts
and fitted a round of nylon between the top the steel nosegear leg and the
round stopper disk of aluminum at the top.
These are not at all new ideas, and I thank all who suggested them. With a
little grease in appropriate places the whole thing now steers much much
better. It seems more than acceptable now.
Thanks,
Jim Greenough
701 Portland OR
Message 5
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| Subject: | In defence of the Suzy - 1.3L |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
I have just sold (because of a rusted out body only) my 1993 Suzuki
Sedan - 1.3L after many years of flawless service and over 355,000 kms
without a design-caused hiccup. IMHO these are fantastic engines that
are made to last, are easy to work on and extremely fuel efficient.
Mine were 90% highway miles and I had the 5-speed. I know of two others
who had 3-speed automatics and mostly highway miles and they did not get
near 200K before packing it in engine-wise.
Lets just say that my 76 hp 1.3L 4-cylinder magically produces 100 hp as
some people claim. When does a car need full power? When the light
turns green and when you are passing a b-train on a two-lane highway.
The rest of time we are using about 30% of the engine's output at
highway speeds. Low MP at low (2200 rpm) revs in aircraft terms.
I don't know of any aircraft that will fly on 30% power. Typical cruise
while on a cross country is from 80% to 100% power - let's be honest,
when we were training in those Cessnas, we had it red-lined on the
straight and level. When we are just burning holes in the sky and out
for a ride, we may slip down to the 55 to 60% power.
Car engines are design for longevity at there low revs. At high revs,
they produce a ton of power - but are rebuilt after every race/drag.
Lot's of people run the Geo/Suzy and are happy with the performance.
Lot's of people like paying $15k for a snowmobile engine (if I had $15k,
I would to). I am planning to breath life into an engine that was
manufactured 5 years before my birthday. Who's right and who's wrong.
Who cares. Do your research, pick a pot, and pee in it. Then when you
are finished, you can fly over all the people who said you couldn't do
it, and empty the pot.
Martin
STOL-Vair
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: cruise speeds |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel@Aeroflex.com>
Thanks for the information Grant. Your numbers confirm what I have been seeing,
so I guess I'm not completely out of whack given the configuration I have.
I too have the tapered Warp Drive, and set it per the factory recommendations
with the protractor at the tip. I'm seeing probably 2300 rpm static, and 2600
going full tilt at altitude, which is well short of the 2750 redline on the engine,
and tells me I've got about as much pitch in there as I can get away with.
Guess the next step is to try and do something about the dragginess.
Good flying!
Grant Schemmel
Time: 06:47:48 AM PST US
Subject: Zenith-List: cruise speeds
From: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
Hi Grant,
I have a Warp Drive 'tapered' prop at 70" diameter. Using the factory
setting technique/protractor and measuring at the tips it is currently set
for 16.5 degrees. My CAM100 redlines at 6,000 rpm, but static tests at this
prop setting produce 5,000 at full throttle. Prop reduction ratio is 2.4:1,
so 6,000 rpm gives 2500 - 5,000 gives 2083.
I originally flew with the prop set at 13 degrees. This gave me max 6,000
rpm in flight, but top speed was not high enough (105 or 110? as I recall).
I then tried 18 degrees. Take off performance at sea level was not much
affected - I got about 120 ias maxed out, but the engine seemed to 'labor'
in cruise. Now finding that 16.5 is a good compromise.
No wheel pants or other streamlining measures - cruise power set at 4800 -
ias is 110 to 115 mph. The engine rpm doesn't vary as much as i'd expect
with power increases... the theory of the warp drive tapered prop is that it
aerodynamically flexes to give some amount of 'constant speed propellor'
effect. I think this is so.
For example, on a test climb to 10,400 asl, with engine at wide open
throttle, the propellor rpm hardly varied ... 5,000 to 4800 range as the vsi
fell off to a hundred fpm or so (and I was getting too cold! no heater) with
asi at 80 mph for best rate of climb.
I have seriously considered shortening my prop to 68" so I can get more rpm
at wide open throttle while keeping 16.5 degrees - or maybe even going back
to 18 degrees. But seeing as how this is an irreversible mod, I'll wait a
while to be sure. The 70" prop at 16.5 at 5,000 rpm accelerates for takeoff
like a jackrabbit! Very 'sporty' - almost STOL (but I don't have any good
data on actual takeoff distance) and as you know from working at that high
elevation airfield, there is always a tradeoff between takeoff perf. and
cruise speed.
Hope this helps,
best
Grant
Message 7
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| Subject: | corrosion removal on wheels |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Anybody got a quick and easy method for removing those powdery looking spots on
my Matco wheels? I know brushing with steel brush is a no no. charlie heathco
Message 8
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| Subject: | Canopy Thickness - 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Fellow Builders:
I need the help of someone who has a canopy lying around or installed on your 601XL
already. I'm toying with the idea of making my own canopy (call me crazy)
and I would like to know what the thickness is of the finished canopy.
So if you have a micrometer and can check the edge of your canopy for me I would
greatly appreciate it. If you could check it as high as possible on the aft
edge that may give me an idea of the thinnest part that's measurable.
It looks like it may be a fun project at least more fun than a sharp stick in the
eye.
Thanks,
Scott Laughlin
N5SL (Reserved)
www.cooknwithgas.com
601XL/Corvair
Working on Instruments & getting ahead of myself again.
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Heat Shrink Tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Mountain" <mountain4don@hotmail.com>
I am in the process of making my first electrical connection on my Zodiac XL
stabilizer trim tab motor. In connecting the wires coming out of the motor
to the 5-wire cable, I was planning to just strip them and solder them
together, and then use Radio Shack store heat-shrink tubing to insulate
them. The directions in the manual from Zenith say to either use electrical
tape or heat shrink tubing. Their picture in the manual of a bundle of
black tape looks a little rough. Is Radio Shack heat-shrink tubing
permissible in a kit airplane, or do I need something special? I see some
for sale in one of my aircraft catalogs. Is it any different or better? Or
is there some better way to make these connections? I bought the complete
kit and have the tail section about done. Then its on to the wings.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Canopy Thickness - 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
OK Scott you asked for it ""YOUR CRAZY"" Even if your lucky enough to
get a mold to form a canopy in the first few tries you will still spend
way more trying to get one without visual distortion. Especially when I
have heard of a fellow in the US that makes them for around $500.00 and
guarantees the unit even if you crack it while drilling it. Make your
own? Give me the hot poker for the eye. But knowing your desire to make
everything Good Luck and keep us posted.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL , Osprey 2 serial # 751
President: Kitchener/Waterloo RAA Chapter
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N5SL
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy Thickness - 601XL
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Fellow Builders:
I need the help of someone who has a canopy lying around or installed on
your 601XL already. I'm toying with the idea of making my own canopy
(call me crazy) and I would like to know what the thickness is of the
finished canopy.
So if you have a micrometer and can check the edge of your canopy for me
I would greatly appreciate it. If you could check it as high as
possible on the aft edge that may give me an idea of the thinnest part
that's measurable.
It looks like it may be a fun project at least more fun than a sharp
stick in the eye.
Thanks,
Scott Laughlin
N5SL (Reserved)
www.cooknwithgas.com
601XL/Corvair
Working on Instruments & getting ahead of myself again.
---------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hi Don:
I'm just now getting into some electrical work also. Last week I found a great
deal of information and products at:
http://www.bandcspecialty.com/parts.html
I just purchased some parts from them and received everything in just two days.
I ordered some clear heat shrink from them so I can print labels on my printer
and shrink around the wire with the see-through heat shrink. I also got my
headset jacks from them.
Their prices seemed pretty reasonable and they have links to some detailed explanations
from aerolectric.com. If you haven't found them yet you may enjoy reading
about switches, wire, etc. as I did when I found the website.
I found some other stuff at Radio Shack and also some items in the electrical section of the Summit Racing site at http://www.summitracing.com/
Here's a good idea for making a connector for your servo wires:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
Just one more thing - when you join and heat shrink the wires in a multiple-wire
bundle be sure to space the splices so you don't end up with a big bump. See
the idea here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/wingwire/con3.jpg
And for the grand finally - see this page for many great ideas on wiring your airplane:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
Good luck,
Scott Laughlin
N5SL (Reserved)
www.cooknwithgas.com
601XL/Corvair
Working on instrument panel
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Mountain"
I am in the process of making my first electrical connection on my Zodiac XL
Message 12
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| Subject: | Canopy Thickness - 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hey Mark that hurt! I didn't say 'hot' poker in the eye, I said a sharp stick.
I have a better idea that doesn't use forms but some heat and compressed air
and gravity and produces crystal clear canopies. I've got the air and I've found
a good source of gravity for real cheap.
I'll post photos when I'm all done even if it turns out to be a catastrophe.
Now about that thickness?!?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Cdngoose <601xl@sympatico.ca> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
OK Scott you asked for it ""YOUR CRAZY""
Give me the hot poker for the eye.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Heat Shrink Tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Cardell <bill@flyinmiata.com>
FWIW, www.delcity.net is excellent for wiring type stuff. They have really
nice heatshrinkable, weathertight connectors. No affiliation, blah, blah.
do not archive
Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
bill@flyinmiata.com
Flyin' Miata
1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
970-242-3800 (tech support)
http://flyinmiata.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: Heat Shrink Tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
So far, I have soldered all splices and end connections, used heat shrink,
and to finish them off, applied liquid rubber insulation from a brush-on
type can. I figure since there are so few actual connections the overkill
is time well spent.
I think I picked up the brush-on at Wal-Mart or one of the auto parts stores
- standard item - can't remember the brand name though. It really sticks
well to vinyl and teflon insulation and is tough to peel off after a few
minutes. It looks good and really seals splices and cable ends from
moisture/dust, etc.
Paul Moore
XL O-200
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Mountain
Subject: Zenith-List: Heat Shrink Tubing
..Or is there some better way to make these connections?...
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Heat Shrink Tubing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com>
Radio Shack heat-shrink should be fine. I would make three suggestions:
- stagger the splices to reduce the diameter of the bundle
- use crimp "knife" splices in case you *ever* want to take the
connection apart again:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?12X358218#s890rk
- Put a final large-diameter piece of heat-shrink over the whole bundle
when done.
-- Craig
Don Mountain wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Mountain" <mountain4don@hotmail.com>
>
> I am in the process of making my first electrical connection on my Zodiac XL
> stabilizer trim tab motor. In connecting the wires coming out of the motor
> to the 5-wire cable, I was planning to just strip them and solder them
> together, and then use Radio Shack store heat-shrink tubing to insulate
> them. The directions in the manual from Zenith say to either use electrical
> tape or heat shrink tubing. Their picture in the manual of a bundle of
> black tape looks a little rough. Is Radio Shack heat-shrink tubing
> permissible in a kit airplane, or do I need something special? I see some
> for sale in one of my aircraft catalogs. Is it any different or better? Or
> is there some better way to make these connections? I bought the complete
> kit and have the tail section about done. Then its on to the wings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Thickness - 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Scott, do yourself a favor and call Todd Silver at
www.toddscanopies.com or 954-579-0874
I paid $325US for my tinted canopy and it fit perfectly. Shipping was
$85 US collect from Ft. Lauderdale to Buffalo.
Don't even try to make one.
Trevor page
610HD complete. Now painting
On Mar 28, 2005, at 3:44 PM, N5SL wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
> Fellow Builders:
>
> I need the help of someone who has a canopy lying around or installed
> on your 601XL already. I'm toying with the idea of making my own
> canopy (call me crazy) and I would like to know what the thickness is
> of the finished canopy.
>
> So if you have a micrometer and can check the edge of your canopy for
> me I would greatly appreciate it. If you could check it as high as
> possible on the aft edge that may give me an idea of the thinnest part
> that's measurable.
>
> It looks like it may be a fun project at least more fun than a sharp
> stick in the eye.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Laughlin
> N5SL (Reserved)
> www.cooknwithgas.com
> 601XL/Corvair
> Working on Instruments & getting ahead of myself again.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Flap actuator travel |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
With the flaps fully retracted, the flap crank lever should just clear the
upper flange of the rear frame. This will allow for the maximum flap
deflection when the flap actuator just clears the top of the rear frame at
full deflection. With the flaps fully retracted, any gap between the lever
and the top flange of the rear frame will reduce the total flap travel by
the amount of the gap. This gap set when you drill the control lever to the
torque tube.
I ended up with about 27 degrees of flap travel on mine. About the only time
you will need the flaps on the XL anyway is to land on extremely short
strips. I can easily get mine down and stopped in less than 2000 feet on
asphalt with no flaps. With full flaps and moderate breaking, I can cut that
in half.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
>
> I've just started measuring my flap travel with the actuator and flap
> control tubes in place. It appears that the upper limit of flap travel
> is limited by the 'start' of flap motor travel, and the lower limit is
> limited by the rear channel. This appears to give me only about 20
> degrees of flap travel. Anyone else run into this?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Hi Guys,
I've been looking at painting systems and paints and have run into AFS
paints
where there are no toxic materials involved. A respirator is good
enough and
an HVLP gun will work. They have a two part polyurethane system, with
primers, etchers and cleaners for the metal aircraft and none of them
have killer
toxic products because they are a water-born product with water cleanup.
Have any of you used this stuff? It looks pretty good on their site,
but I've no
personal experience with it.
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/about-us.htm
Larry McFarland - 601HDS @ 55 hours and preparing for paint.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Thickness - 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com>
Gee, fine bunch of "experimental" aircraft builders ;-)
Scott - I measured my factory canopy at the left and right bottoms of
the trailing edge. Both read about 0.084 inches. I can't get a useful
reading from the aft-center like you asked because mine still has the
protective plastic coating on the inside and outside which throws off
the reading. But by eye it doesn't look any thinner.
-- Craig
Trevor Page wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
>
> Scott, do yourself a favor and call Todd Silver at
> www.toddscanopies.com or 954-579-0874
>
> I paid $325US for my tinted canopy and it fit perfectly. Shipping was
> $85 US collect from Ft. Lauderdale to Buffalo.
>
> Don't even try to make one.
>
> Trevor page
> 610HD complete. Now painting
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2005, at 3:44 PM, N5SL wrote:
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Fellow Builders:
>>
>>I need the help of someone who has a canopy lying around or installed
>>on your 601XL already. I'm toying with the idea of making my own
>>canopy (call me crazy) and I would like to know what the thickness is
>>of the finished canopy.
>>
>>So if you have a micrometer and can check the edge of your canopy for
>>me I would greatly appreciate it. If you could check it as high as
>>possible on the aft edge that may give me an idea of the thinnest part
>>that's measurable.
>>
>>It looks like it may be a fun project at least more fun than a sharp
>>stick in the eye.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Scott Laughlin
>>N5SL (Reserved)
>>www.cooknwithgas.com
>>601XL/Corvair
>>Working on Instruments & getting ahead of myself again.
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | RE: Canopy thickness |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Scott,
My Todd's canopy is .140 at the back center. You
might just e-mail Todd at Todd's canopies - I bet he
would tell you how thick his are. He was a pleasure
to do business with, and has an excellent reputation
for integrity. When I ordered mine, he was working
hard on finding the cheapest shipping company
possible.
I worked on my canopy this week, and found it to
be the most challenging part of the project.
R/
Brandon
__________________________________
Message 21
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| Subject: | Nose gear questions for 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Stauffer" <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
Thanks for all the responses both on and off list.
Mark
Odenton, MD
601XL fuselage in progress.
Do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | GEO Engine on a 701 with floats? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brendan Bartlett <b2bartlett@rogers.com>
Hi All,
Just wondering if anybody out there is operating a 701 with floats and a GEO engine.
I was told that you need 100 hp on the 701 with floats - 80 hp won't be
enough power. Can you get 100 hp reliably out of a GEO engine?
Also, if somebody is using a GEO engine, how many hours can you expect before
overhaul on one of these?
Also, I'm seriously thinking about starting to build a 701 but I haven't decided
on a powerplant. Can I leave this undecided for a long time, or will I end
up having to rip the wings apart for different fuel plumbing / add weight to
the tail / etc?
thanks....and the wealth of knowledge on this list certaintly is impressive!
Brendan Bartlett
still just dreaming about a CH701
Message 23
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| Subject: | GEO Engine on a 701 with floats? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
Engine decision is way down the road in your construction time. But to
make sure your in good shape make your fuel lines 3/8 " this will
accommodate all motors including EFI. Wait to purchase your battery till
near the end of your build then you will know size needed and location
of said battery to make your CG happy. Other then that start reading
plans drilling fingers (opps metal) and shopping E-Bay for all those
steam gauges everyone is throwing out for the Glass cockpit. As for the
Geo a 1.3 may not do it on a hot day but the 1.6 should be a distinct
possibility a turbo version would be nice for that water run. The 701 is
a nice bird for it's function, just dive in and start building, it's
always the first hole that takes the longest to make.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL , Osprey 2 serial # 751
President: Kitchener/Waterloo RAA Chapter
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brendan
Bartlett
Subject: Zenith-List: GEO Engine on a 701 with floats?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brendan Bartlett
<b2bartlett@rogers.com>
Hi All,
Just wondering if anybody out there is operating a 701 with floats and
a GEO engine. I was told that you need 100 hp on the 701 with floats -
80 hp won't be enough power. Can you get 100 hp reliably out of a GEO
engine?
Also, if somebody is using a GEO engine, how many hours can you expect
before overhaul on one of these?
Also, I'm seriously thinking about starting to build a 701 but I
haven't decided on a powerplant. Can I leave this undecided for a long
time, or will I end up having to rip the wings apart for different fuel
plumbing / add weight to the tail / etc?
thanks....and the wealth of knowledge on this list certaintly is
impressive!
Brendan Bartlett
still just dreaming about a CH701
Message 24
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Reinero" <reineros@pacbell.net>
I have a Geo Tracker engine with 1,200 miles on it. I striped it out of the
car which had left real panel damage only. I could not believe the guy
junked it out with so little damage to the body. I think the insurance
companies here in California will not rebuild a car if the air bag has
deployed.
The engine started up and ran in one shot from the starter. I was going to
save it for my next build, a Tiger Moth, but will sell fro $1,200 if you are
interested. I think it is a 2002 model but could be off a year. If you are
interested I will look up the paper work to confirm. I will take pictures
also if requested.
I have a 1.3L Suzuki with a Raven redrive built up and ready to go for the
601XL that I now have under construction.
The engine is complete with;
intake and exhaust computer starter generator and the wiring loom cut per
Jeron's recommendations.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Darlene" <dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: GEO Engine
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave & Darlene"
<dnimigon@telusplanet.net>
>
> Hi List
> I'm a while from needing this but I'm looking at different options for an
engine for my XL. One of the members of our local EAA has suggested the 1.6
liter Geo Tracker, Suzuki auto engines. and the Raven redrive. I've looked
at there site and yes they will produce 100 HP. The weight is in the range I
need. Does anyone have any input on this or is there a better site I can get
to. I'm just looking at options that are affordable.
>
> Dave
> Alberta
> 601XL
> 99% to go
> www.borrowmyhusband.com/Nimigon_601XL
>
>
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