Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Tying the tail? (Grant Corriveau)
2. 06:30 AM - Re: Tying the tail? (Bryan Martin)
3. 06:37 AM - Red, Red, Green (N5SL)
4. 07:38 AM - Re: Tying the tail? (kobo1)
5. 07:58 AM - Re: Tying the tail? (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
6. 08:42 AM - Re: Tying the tail? (Bryan Martin)
7. 08:46 AM - New Kit Builder (grusha)
8. 09:01 AM - Re: Tying the tail? (kobo1)
9. 10:31 AM - Re: Tying the tail? (Michel Therrien)
10. 11:06 AM - Re: Tying the tail? ()
11. 12:25 PM - Flap actuators (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
12. 12:51 PM - Re: Tying the tail? (N5SL)
13. 03:59 PM - Re: Red, Red, Green (Jim and Lucy)
14. 06:56 PM - C-IDUS update and questions (Trevor Page)
15. 07:09 PM - Re: New Kit Builder (Mike Sinclair)
16. 07:22 PM - Kevin's webpage (kevinbonds)
17. 08:27 PM - Re: Kevin's webpage (Lance Gingell)
18. 08:27 PM - Baggage floor (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
19. 09:13 PM - Re: Baggage floor (Hal Rozema)
20. 10:07 PM - Re: Flap actuators (NYTerminat@aol.com)
21. 10:24 PM - Re: Tying the tail? (Bryan Martin)
Message 1
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> The wing tie-down rings on the 601 are far enough forward to help keep the
> nose on the ground in strong winds but you also need to tie down the tail
> and lock the controls nose down.
OKAY! That's why I like this list -- good info thanks. I would like to hear
the FULL and complete report behind that picture.
Bryan wins the 'award' for the most complete answer!
I will continue to tie down the tail (but not so tight as to deform the tail
hinge point), and I will continue to secure the control column in the
nosedown direction. That seems to make the most sense. (although, I seem to
recall that the Cessna control lock holds the tail in mostly neutral
position... hmmmm
Which raises another question - when tying down a taildragger, should the
control column be secured in the full noseup or nosedown or neutral
position?
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
As I recall, the control lock on a Cessna locks the elevator partially nose
down but a Cessna has more tail surface. I haven't devised a way to lock my
601 controls partly nose down yet. For now, when I do tie it down outside, I
just tie the stick to one of the rudder pedals. I seem to recall that full
nose down is recommended for the 601 but can't recall where that info came
from. Most of the time my Zodiac sits in a hangar and I don't worry about a
control lock. I would guess that on a taildragger, down elevator would be
unnecessary since the whole tail is already angled upward. But, I'm not very
familiar with taildraggers.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 5/18/05 7:34 AM, Grant Corriveau at grantc@ca.inter.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
>
>> From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>>
>> The wing tie-down rings on the 601 are far enough forward to help keep the
>> nose on the ground in strong winds but you also need to tie down the tail
>> and lock the controls nose down.
>
> OKAY! That's why I like this list -- good info thanks. I would like to hear
> the FULL and complete report behind that picture.
>
> Bryan wins the 'award' for the most complete answer!
>
> I will continue to tie down the tail (but not so tight as to deform the tail
> hinge point), and I will continue to secure the control column in the
> nosedown direction. That seems to make the most sense. (although, I seem to
> recall that the Cessna control lock holds the tail in mostly neutral
> position... hmmmm
>
> Which raises another question - when tying down a taildragger, should the
> control column be secured in the full noseup or nosedown or neutral
> position?
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
NORAD has a new laser-warning system for anybody flying general aviation in the
Washington DC area. See the report on fox.com here:
http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,156861,00.html
There's a video link also on that page to show you what it looks like. Does anybody
have first-hand knowledge of the two guys that were arrested last week for
flying too close to the capital?
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
---------------------------------
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kobo1" <kobo1@cyberbeach.net>
I was taught the standard way to tie down the tail would be
Bungee cord the stick full back and tie the tail down at the tail wheel,
with about 4 inches of slack. You don't want it tugging at the tail,
just to hold it down in an emergency. The wings must be tied taught
though, no slack at all.
Michael Kolbasovsky
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grant
Corriveau
Subject: Zenith-List: Tying the tail?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
So, why do we tie down the tail when parking a nose-dragger?
The more I think about it the less I understand this practice. And
should the control column be secured full up or full down or full
neutral?
Seems to me full neutral is the way to go so the tail surface won't
contribute to lifting the nosewheel off the ground no matter which way
the wind blows...
Furthermore, the tail ring on my HDS is not reallyt that beefy where it
fits to the fuselage. If you (or some other well-meaning 'helper' )
should tie down the tail with a strong horizontal vector in the tiedown
rope (i.e. if the tie down spot is well aft of the plane) then I
recommend you check carefully for deformation in the rear lower rudder
hinge assembly where the tie down ring is attached. Mine showed signs
of damage after such an event.
Unless someone comes up with something I haven't thought of I think I'm
going to go with wings-only tie downs from now on. This gives the added
benefit of being able to easily taxi into my parking spot from the back
without worrying about hitting the tail tie down ground ring.
Any other thoughts on this? Anyone seen a nose-dragger saved by having
the tail tied down?
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread, Michael is pretty much correct, but I was always taught that on
a tricycle plane for strong wind prep to tie the wing taunt but to have the
wing tie down points behind the line of the ground tie down points. Then to tie
the rear point down until you get the front shock to relax a bit or at least
some pressure. That way the plane is tied down suspended between three points.
At least that's the way our Air Force ties down our planes. Everything from
a Piper Warrior to a C-5A. Course on a BUFF there would not be any point to
tie relaxing the front strut, but on the smaller stuff. As to leaving slack in
the lines I just cannot see. Why give your plane three to five inches to
swing or lift with the damage inertia could cause? FWIW, Best regards, Bill
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
That's pretty much the way I was taught back when I started taking lessons
at the Navy Flying Club at NAS Memphis. For small aircraft, you should use
ropes pulled snug tied with hurricane hitches. The ropes will stretch and
absorb shock loads.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 5/18/05 10:57 AM, JAPhillipsGA@aol.com at JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Dear Thread, Michael is pretty much correct, but I was always taught that on
> a tricycle plane for strong wind prep to tie the wing taunt but to have the
> wing tie down points behind the line of the ground tie down points. Then to
> tie
> the rear point down until you get the front shock to relax a bit or at least
> some pressure. That way the plane is tied down suspended between three
> points.
> At least that's the way our Air Force ties down our planes. Everything from
> a Piper Warrior to a C-5A. Course on a BUFF there would not be any point to
> tie relaxing the front strut, but on the smaller stuff. As to leaving slack in
> the lines I just cannot see. Why give your plane three to five inches to
> swing or lift with the damage inertia could cause? FWIW, Best regards, Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: grusha <grusha@velocitus.net>
I have recently ordered a full 701 kit that will be shipped in early
July. I've been looking at these posting and have learned some useful
things. I am a first time builder and am looking for any pitfalls that I
should watch out for. For example, from some of the postings I have seen
here, I will be very careful to measure assemblies prior to riveting to
avoid twists in parts like wings and elevator.
Are there other things that I should be aware of that are non-obvious from
reviewing the plans and the CD?
I haven't seen anything in the documentation that discusses accuracy as
related to the numbers on the drawings. For example, when a distance is
specified as 840 mm, then is Zenith using the normal
mathematical/engineering convention that this number has two significant
digits (no decimal point, 840 not 840.) and therefore the accuracy is +- 5mm?
Doug Kandle, Boise ID
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kobo1" <kobo1@cyberbeach.net>
All true, but remember small aircraft do bounce a little in the wind on
the front oleo, maybe an inch or two. You don't want the tail tugging at
the rope on each bounce and stressing the metal; the rope there is to
keep the tail from going over. Larger aircraft may not have this little
bounce in the wind.
Michael Kolbasovsky
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bryan
Martin
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Tying the tail?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
--> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
That's pretty much the way I was taught back when I started taking
lessons at the Navy Flying Club at NAS Memphis. For small aircraft, you
should use ropes pulled snug tied with hurricane hitches. The ropes will
stretch and absorb shock loads.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 5/18/05 10:57 AM, JAPhillipsGA@aol.com at JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Dear Thread, Michael is pretty much correct, but I was always taught
> that on a tricycle plane for strong wind prep to tie the wing taunt
> but to have the wing tie down points behind the line of the ground tie
> down points. Then to tie the rear point down until you get the front
> shock to relax a bit or at least some pressure. That way the plane is
> tied down suspended between three points.
> At least that's the way our Air Force ties down our planes.
Everything from
> a Piper Warrior to a C-5A. Course on a BUFF there would not be any
point to
> tie relaxing the front strut, but on the smaller stuff. As to leaving
slack in
> the lines I just cannot see. Why give your plane three to five inches
to
> swing or lift with the damage inertia could cause? FWIW, Best regards,
Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
--- Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net> wrote:
>
> I will continue to tie down the tail (but not so
> tight as to deform the tail
> hinge point),
Deforming the tail hinge point? I ran my engine at
wide open throttle on many occasions with the aircraft
holding in place by this eye bolt. I presume that
traction is not far from 400 lbs. No deformation or
breakage... yet.
Michel
do not archive
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on heru-ur
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <jeffglass@starband.net>
Bryan, please show or explain how to tie a hurricane hitch.
Thanks,
Jeff Glasserow
CH601 HDS
N6384E
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> That's pretty much the way I was taught back when I started taking
> lessons at the Navy Flying Club at NAS Memphis. For small aircraft, you
> should use ropes pulled snug tied with hurricane hitches. The ropes will
> stretch and absorb shock loads.
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> do not archive.
>
>
> on 5/18/05 10:57 AM, JAPhillipsGA@aol.com at JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>>
>> Dear Thread, Michael is pretty much correct, but I was always taught
>> that on a tricycle plane for strong wind prep to tie the wing taunt
>> but to have the wing tie down points behind the line of the ground tie
>> down points. Then to tie
>> the rear point down until you get the front shock to relax a bit or at
>> least some pressure. That way the plane is tied down suspended
>> between three points.
>> At least that's the way our Air Force ties down our planes.
>> Everything from a Piper Warrior to a C-5A. Course on a BUFF there
>> would not be any point to tie relaxing the front strut, but on the
>> smaller stuff. As to leaving slack in the lines I just cannot see.
>> Why give your plane three to five inches to swing or lift with the
>> damage inertia could cause? FWIW, Best regards, Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
Seems like these linear actuators ought to work great.
http://www.firgelliauto.com/cat10_1.htm
You'd have to fabricate a mount of some kind, but their speed and strength
seem to be just about right for our flaps. The price is better than
Skyshops...and McMaster-Karr. Any thoughts?
Dave Harms
601XL-Corvair
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Does it involve vodka, rum and a cherry? Sorry, the coffee just kicked in and
I haven't seen very many emails today. Memories of Pat O'Briens in New Orleans.
Scott "DO NOT ARICHIVE" Laughlin
jeffglass@starband.net wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by:
Bryan, please show or explain how to tie a hurricane hitch.
Thanks,
Jeff Glasserow
CH601 HDS
N6384E
---------------------------------
Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing & more. Check it out!
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Red, Red, Green |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jim and Lucy <jpollard@ciaccess.com>
At 09:37 AM 5/18/2005, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
>There's a video link also on that page to show you what it looks
>like. Does anybody have first-hand knowledge of the two guys that were
>arrested last week for flying too close to the capital?
>
>Scott Laughlin
>www.cooknwithgas.com
Yea here is the bumpersticker off the back of one of those guys
cars.
http://www.smartgroups.com/vault/pnwflying/bumpersticker2.gif
Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | C-IDUS update and questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
My 601HD C-DIUS made very brief low-level hop at the airfield today.
We're going through an initial workout before a real first flight.
Things are pretty good. I have a couple of things I needs to fix. My
side-mounted float in the header tank developed a leak :( Out comes
the Proseal...
Anyhow, the test pilot mentioned that he needed a fair amount of
right rudder to keep her straight. I can concur on this during my
taxi testing this week. Does anyone else have this issue? Should I
try and adjust with the turnbuckles or should I install a trim tab?
We haven't flown it for real yet, so this might be a moot point once
it gets airborne.
I'm hoping for a real flight this weekend once I fix the leak and a
couple of really small things.
Trevor Page
601HD C-IDUS
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: New Kit Builder |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
Suspect this might be the mountain out of a mole hill thing. If you only want to
achieve an accuracy of 5 mm (.197, or slightly over 1/8") over a distance of just
over 33" (the 840 mm), I suspect that this airplane will still fly! However I
would still try to hold it a little closer than that, remember that ast the
distance grows, so does the error.
And welcome to the world of low and slow!
Mike
Do Not Archive
grusha wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: grusha <grusha@velocitus.net>
>
> I have recently ordered a full 701 kit that will be shipped in early
> July. I've been looking at these posting and have learned some useful
> things. I am a first time builder and am looking for any pitfalls that I
> should watch out for. For example, from some of the postings I have seen
> here, I will be very careful to measure assemblies prior to riveting to
> avoid twists in parts like wings and elevator.
>
> Are there other things that I should be aware of that are non-obvious from
> reviewing the plans and the CD?
>
> I haven't seen anything in the documentation that discusses accuracy as
> related to the numbers on the drawings. For example, when a distance is
> specified as 840 mm, then is Zenith using the normal
> mathematical/engineering convention that this number has two significant
> digits (no decimal point, 840 not 840.) and therefore the accuracy is +- 5mm?
>
> Doug Kandle, Boise ID
>
Message 16
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|
"brandioelkers@hotmai.com" <brandioelkers@hotmail.com>,
"Damian and Lydia Monyoya" <montoyas7940@hotmail.com>,
"jt daly" <jtofcaspianproductions@hotmail.com>,
"Jay Power" <jpower@ena.com>,
"JT For All The Drifters" <jtofcaspianproductions@hotmail.com>,
"karl" <karlpugh@netzero.com>,
"Kevin Augsburg" <kevinaugsburg@hotmail.com>,
"Mavis Green" <mgreen@mtsu.edu>,
"Michael &Julia" <nanokrusty@yahoo.com>,
"Mike and peggy Severs" <gtrflogger@aol.com>, <MikeNICE4@aol.com>,
"Nioshi Jackson" <funkyswinger@yahoo.com>,
"Randy Harmon" <LTCHarmon@comcast.net>,
"scott and ann" <ANNELSON@aol.com>,
"Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>,
"Scott&Ann Nelson" <ANNELSON@aol.com>, <Stibbs54@aol.com>,
"Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com>,
"traveling man" <travlinman@ameritech.net>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Hello Everyone
Here is a link to my new website. It is still under construction.
https://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds <https://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds/>
Some of you, I have not talked with in a while. Please drop me a note and
tell me how you like my site and check back often to see my progress. Also
don't forget to sign my Guestbook.
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered;Plansbuilding.
Empenage done; working on wings and engine.
Message 17
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Oh, I remember my demo that day:
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds/images/Empennage/view_from_above.jpg
Brrrr -rrr-rrr
Nice one Kevin.
..lance (my EIS-6000 just arrived!)
DO NOT ARCHIVE.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kevinbonds
Monyoya; jt daly; Jay Power; JT For All The Drifters; karl; Kevin
Augsburg; Mavis Green; Michael Mike and peggy Severs;
MikeNICE4@aol.com; Nioshi Jackson; Randy Harmon; scott and ann; Scott
Laughlin; Scott Stibbs54@aol.com; Traveling Man; traveling
man
Subject: Zenith-List: Kevin's webpage
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Hello Everyone
Here is a link to my new website. It is still under construction.
https://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
<https://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds/>
Some of you, I have not talked with in a while. Please drop me a note
and tell me how you like my site and check back often to see my
progress. Also don't forget to sign my Guestbook.
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered;Plansbuilding.
Empenage done; working on wings and engine.
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
I have been wrestling with the baggage floor on my 601XL for some time now.
I don't want to rivet it in place because I want to have access to the flap
actuator area. Seems like a lot of important work to be done in that area
and it would be very difficult to get at it, once that floor is riveted in
place. It's also kinda tricky getting it in and out. It's large.....rather
awkward to slide in under the longerons,and the gussets in front, etc. And I
have been pondering how I'm gonna rivet it underneath the longerons toward the
rear of the baggage compartment.
Then I read on this list (not sure who or when because I've been searching
the archives a lot lately) that someone cut the floor in half...installed the
rear half and left the front half clecoed in place (meaning removable). What
a great idea!! That's what I did today. I removed the "L" angle from the
center of the baggage floor and substituted a "U" channel about 1 1/2 inches
wide. I drilled a second row of holes about 20 mm from the first row and
centered the channel under the two rows of holes. Then I cut the baggage floor
in half between the rows of holes. The top longerons are still removable,
so I was able to rivet the rear baggage floor to the side supports ("L"
angles). The rear of the baggage floor is now riveted in place, and the front
half
is very easy to remove. I have good access to the flap actuator area..and I
shouldn't need to rivet the front half of the floor in place until much later
in the building process.
I'm not sure who came up with this idea. I can't take credit for it. But
it really makes sense to me. And I think it ought to be a standard feature on
the kit itself.
Dave Harms
601XL - Corvair
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage floor |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
I'm a 701 builder but I'll share.
Instead of rivets use rivnuts. The 6-32 size worked well in a couple
close places on my plane. AC Spruce has an adapter which permits you to
install with an ordinary manual or air puller and your floor would be
held down under pan head 6-32 x 3x8 screws (or bolts if you
prefer)VideoFlyer@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
>
>I have been wrestling with the baggage floor on my 601XL for some time now.
>I don't want to rivet it in place because I want to have access to the flap
>actuator area. Seems like a lot of important work to be done in that area
>and it would be very difficult to get at it, once that floor is riveted in
>place. It's also kinda tricky getting it in and out. It's large.....rather
>awkward to slide in under the longerons,and the gussets in front, etc. And I
>have been pondering how I'm gonna rivet it underneath the longerons toward the
>rear of the baggage compartment.
>
>Then I read on this list (not sure who or when because I've been searching
>the archives a lot lately) that someone cut the floor in half...installed the
>rear half and left the front half clecoed in place (meaning removable). What
>a great idea!! That's what I did today. I removed the "L" angle from the
>center of the baggage floor and substituted a "U" channel about 1 1/2 inches
>wide. I drilled a second row of holes about 20 mm from the first row and
>centered the channel under the two rows of holes. Then I cut the baggage floor
>in half between the rows of holes. The top longerons are still removable,
>so I was able to rivet the rear baggage floor to the side supports ("L"
>angles). The rear of the baggage floor is now riveted in place, and the front
half
>is very easy to remove. I have good access to the flap actuator area..and I
>shouldn't need to rivet the front half of the floor in place until much later
>in the building process.
>
>I'm not sure who came up with this idea. I can't take credit for it. But
>it really makes sense to me. And I think it ought to be a standard feature on
>the kit itself.
>
>Dave Harms
>601XL - Corvair
>
>
>
>
VideoFlyer@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: VideoFlyer@aol.com
>
>I have been wrestling with the baggage floor on my 601XL for some time now.
>I don't want to rivet it in place because I want to have access to the flap
>actuator area. Seems like a lot of important work to be done in that area
>and it would be very difficult to get at it, once that floor is riveted in
>place. It's also kinda tricky getting it in and out. It's large.....rather
>awkward to slide in under the longerons,and the gussets in front, etc. And I
>have been pondering how I'm gonna rivet it underneath the longerons toward the
>rear of the baggage compartment.
>
>Then I read on this list (not sure who or when because I've been searching
>the archives a lot lately) that someone cut the floor in half...installed the
>rear half and left the front half clecoed in place (meaning removable). What
>a great idea!! That's what I did today. I removed the "L" angle from the
>center of the baggage floor and substituted a "U" channel about 1 1/2 inches
>wide. I drilled a second row of holes about 20 mm from the first row and
>centered the channel under the two rows of holes. Then I cut the baggage floor
>in half between the rows of holes. The top longerons are still removable,
>so I was able to rivet the rear baggage floor to the side supports ("L"
>angles). The rear of the baggage floor is now riveted in place, and the front
half
>is very easy to remove. I have good access to the flap actuator area..and I
>shouldn't need to rivet the front half of the floor in place until much later
>in the building process.
>
>I'm not sure who came up with this idea. I can't take credit for it. But
>it really makes sense to me. And I think it ought to be a standard feature on
>the kit itself.
>
>Dave Harms
>601XL - Corvair
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuators |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
In a message dated 5/18/2005 3:26:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
VideoFlyer@aol.com writes:
http://www.firgelliauto.com/cat10_1.htm
It looks like you hit a home run with these. I have been looking for
different ones and this looks like the best deal. I sent them an inquiry about
the
limit switches, whether they are in fact adjustable or not, if they are I will
order one for my 701.
Thanks
Bob Spudis
fuselage 70%
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Tying the tail? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Try this link:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=U&start=1&q=http://www.kenmarson.com/Tie%2520do
wn%2520Knots.pdf&e=9707
The pictures at the end of the article show how to tie a hurricane hitch,
although the article calls them double half-hitches.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 5/18/05 2:04 PM, jeffglass@starband.net at jeffglass@starband.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <jeffglass@starband.net>
>
> Bryan, please show or explain how to tie a hurricane hitch.
> Thanks,
> Jeff Glasserow
> CH601 HDS
> N6384E
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
>> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>>
>> That's pretty much the way I was taught back when I started taking
>> lessons at the Navy Flying Club at NAS Memphis. For small aircraft, you
>> should use ropes pulled snug tied with hurricane hitches. The ropes will
>> stretch and absorb shock loads.
>>
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