Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: Paint quanity (JAPhillipsGA@AOL.COM)
2. 12:20 AM - Re: Mac servo wires / was electrical connections (Brandon Tucker)
3. 12:38 AM - Re: Comm antennas... (Bryan Martin)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: Paint quanity (Rick R)
5. 05:42 AM - Re: 701 Leading Edge Slats (Tebenkof@AOL.COM)
6. 06:12 AM - Re: Electrical connections (Larry Martin)
7. 06:24 AM - Jabiru Engine Reliability (Fred or Sandy Hulen)
8. 06:45 AM - Re: Paint quanity (Larry McFarland)
9. 07:39 AM - Re: Paint quanity (webmaster@upac.ca)
10. 07:55 AM - Re: Painting (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
11. 08:34 AM - CH640 FOR SALE (Stephen Adams)
12. 08:57 AM - Re: Paint quanity (Jack Russell)
13. 09:19 AM - Re: Jabiru reliability (Leo Corbalis)
14. 05:55 PM - Re: Position light intensity (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
15. 07:03 PM - Re: Position light intensity (Graham Kirby)
16. 08:00 PM - Re: Position light intensity (Chuck Deiterich)
17. 08:35 PM - Re: Paint quanity (NYTerminat@aol.com)
18. 09:03 PM - Re: Paint quanity (deucy100@netscape.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you HAVE
to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and they cost a
bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and worked great. If
you are interested I could send you the info and how to. Best regards, Bill of
Georgia
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Mac servo wires / was electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Gents,
The idea behind Bob's d-sub connector for the mac
trim servo is to place it at the wing root so that if
the wings have to be removed at any time, you can just
disconnect at the root. I did the same on the tail so
that if I ever have to remove the horiz stab (for
whatever reason,) I could disconnect the trim wires at
the connector. I don't like hard wiring components
that are removable. They do take a few minutes to
solder the wires to the pins, but not as much work as
it seems.
R/
Brandon
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Comm antennas... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Most antennas are designed for a particular band of frequencies and have no
means of adjustment as no adjustment is necessary. Just get an antenna
designed for the VHF aircraft band, use the proper type of cable and
connectors, mount the antenna on a good ground plane, hook it up and you're
ready to communicate. Cable length doesn't matter much either.
The radius of curvature of the rear deck is large enough that most antennas
will mount there quite well. I put an .025 doubler plate on the inside of my
fuselage skin under the antenna just to give that area a bit more stiffness.
The skin is very thin up there. The plate is the same size as the base of
the antenna and is held in place by the nutserts that the antenna is mounted
to.
A belly mount antenna should work as well as a top mount, just don't mount
it directly behind the exhaust pipe outlet or it'll get covered with soot.
And don't mount it too far back or you might drag it on the runway when you
rotate for take off.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 5/23/05 4:35 PM, Beckman, Rick at Rick.Beckman@atk.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Beckman, Rick" <Rick.Beckman@atk.com>
>
>
> Hi,All,
> I am reluctant to show my ignorance, but I need some advice. I
> have a Val-Com radio for my bird, but no antenna. Are there certain
> wave lengths built into them, or is it something that must be magically set
> with a SWR meter? There are a couple on e-bay right now, but
I
> am hesitant to bid because of said ignorance. I got great help on the # 93
> bulb a few weeks ago and I'm hoping for the same amount (or more) of
> good advice on this.
> Another Q. On many of the antennas I have seen, there is a
> teardrop shaped mounting flange. On the Zodiacs the rear deck is
> curved and the bases look to be flat. What's a guy to do here?! The thought of
> a belly mount has crossed my mind....but then the guys above me
> probably couldn't hear a thing from me. Just a thought......
>
>
> Any and all help is much appreciated!
>
> Rick
>
> Zodie XL 52EB (res.)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick R <n701rr@yahoo.com>
Bill,
Could you send those plans my way as well??
Thanks,
Rick
DO NOT ARCHIVE
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you HAVE
to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and they cost a
bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and worked great. If
you are interested I could send you the info and how to. Best regards, Bill of
Georgia
Rick
Orlando, FL. USA
http://www.geocities.com/n701rr/index.html
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Leading Edge Slats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tebenkof@aol.com
Rick,
I had similar experience with several of the fiberglass parts, particularly
the slat ends. IMHO this is the one area where ZAC does not do as well as
they might. Nor have they been particularly forthcoming with solutions. I
believe I saw a photo (don't remember where) of a solution in the form of
cutting the end of the slat into tabs which can then be bent in to match the
fieberglass part. That seems extreme, but maybe not. Others have talked about
making their own FG parts.
I would certainly be interested if you find a good solution, from ZAC or
otherwise. But rest assured, you are not the only one.
Jim Greenough
701,Portland
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <lrm@isp.com>
We are all entitled to our opinions. Almost every electrical problem I have
encountered, whether it is in a TV, car, airplane or whatever generally is
traced to a bad connection. Most of them are either at one termination or
the other, or a splice. Generally these get some type of corrosion in them.
And most were crimped connections. I have never had a connection fail that
has been properly soldered. The operative word here is properly. I once
watched an A&P, happened to be my son-in-law, solder two wires together. He
laid one next to the other and commenced to apply solder. I ask he if that
was the way he was taught and he said yes. I said "well someone taught you
wrong".
Solder is not a good conductor. It is basically a glue. Tightly twist
approximately 1/2" of the two wires together. Apply heat to the wires, put
your solder to the wires, not the iron, until it flows into the wires. Slid
you heat shrink on and use a heat gun. You will NEVER have a problem with a
splice made in that fashion. As far as crimped terminals go. I crimp them
and solder them. And, for seeing solder connections break, I don't doubt
it, but I'll bet they were just stuck to something and not properly
connected before soldering.
There is nothing more frustrating than to chase down an intermittent
electrical problem only to find green corrosion in a butt connection.
Larry Martin, N1345L www.angelfire.com/un/ch701
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <FlyinK@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Electrical connections
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com>
>
>
> >
> > Solder and shrink tube every connection. Anything other than solder and
> > shrink tubing, you are asking for problems at some point in time, think
> > way
> > ahead. Absolutely No wire nuts or tape.
>
> just to keep balance here, I don't think solder should be used. It can
> create a weak spot that will break if it gets flexed under vibration.
I've
> seen a lot of solder joints break, it makes it brittle at the solder/wire
> joint. I went with 'lectric Bob's method of only mil wire with AMP PIDG
> (double crimp) connectors and a proper crimper. One of the benefits of
mil
> wire (other than tefzel insulation, i.e. non-PVC) is higher strand count
for
> better flexibility. That flexibility goes away when it gets soldered. If
> you do solder, pay special attention to strain relief (but I don't think
> there's any need for solder anywhere). With good crimpers and PIDG
> terminals and butt splices, it's quicker, easier and plenty secure.
>
> gary
>
>
> --
>
>
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Jabiru Engine Reliability |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61@comcast.net>
As Jeff Small said, the ones of us that pioneered the first Jabiru
installations in Zenith 601s had to go through some learning curves. Once
settled out, my engine has been marvelous! My confidence is very high in
the 3300 engine and I've flown a number of long cross-country flights from
my home field in the mid west (Kansas City Mo. suburb called Lee's Summit),
winging my way to Sun n Fun in Florida and Oshkosh Wisconsin a year ago.
Jabiru factory support has been great! Note as well that Zenith has been
using and recommending the Jabiru 3300 in their demo plane longer than any
other demo engine set-up in 601 history, and they continue to recommend it
as ideal for the 601 series.
Very honestly, some aircraft may need a water cooled engine. The 701 that
was mentioned in the original post climbs out very steeply on take-off and
the forward ground speed is much slower than the 601's. The amount of
airflow going over ANY air cooled engine in this case may not be enough for
proper cooling. Based on that, I suspect you may find Zenith recommending a
water cooled engine for the 701. The 601 works well with air cooled
engines, the 701 may not, but it has nothing to do with "reliability",
merely a matter of proper matching.
As far as RF noise, I use one David Clark and one Soft-Comm headset. The
Soft-Comm uses a different type of "active noise quieting" network than
others I've seen. I don't get any RF noise on the David Clark or other
brands I have tried in the aircraft, but I do get a bit of noise on the
Soft-Comm when the active noise quieting circuit is powered up. Disconnect
the wire that powers up the active noise circuit and the RF is gone.
Smoooooth landings........
Fred
601HDS - Jabiru 3300 - 197 hours
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bill,
Would be nice to see your fresh air respirator on the photo share
portion of the Matronics pages
or see a good description of what you used. Looks like several of us
are always nearing paint but get
stuck on the exhorbitant price of the equipment for a "one shot" usage.
Could you help the rest of us
with a good idea? We're always willing to learn from the guy that's
done it.
Thanks,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS to paint after finishing new wheel fairings @
www.macsmachine.com.
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you HAVE
>to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and they cost a
>bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and worked great. If
>you are interested I could send you the info and how to. Best regards, Bill of
>Georgia
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: webmaster@upac.ca
Larry, I was in the same predicament and spoke to a good friend who has
painted several airplanes and his solution is rather simple but effective.
I purchased a disposable repirator hood from Aucklands Grainger, it's a
$20 Willson type. I then hooked up the hose inlet at the back to the
exhaust port of my shop vac with a long smooth hose I purchased from a
local hardware store and the vac was located well away from the garage.
Make sure the vac is clean however !! :) The shop vac in combination with
a repirator proved to be very effective in providing both clean fresh air
and no fumes. I'd also recommend you cover the plexi face plate with some
saran wrap to keep overspray off the shield, you can peel it off and put
more on if it happens.
The setup can be a little bit cumbersome but the money savings were great
and I'm still alive to prove it works. The amount of air from a good shop
vac is MORE than enough to keep out harmful fumes from entering the hood.
Just my $0.02 worth.
Trev Page
601HD C-IDUS
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Bill,
> Would be nice to see your fresh air respirator on the photo share
> portion of the Matronics pages
> or see a good description of what you used. Looks like several of us
> are always nearing paint but get
> stuck on the exhorbitant price of the equipment for a "one shot" usage.
> Could you help the rest of us
> with a good idea? We're always willing to learn from the guy that's
> done it.
> Thanks,
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS to paint after finishing new wheel fairings @
> www.macsmachine.com.
>
>
> JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>>
>>Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you
>> HAVE
>>to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and they cost
>> a
>>bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and worked great.
>> If
>>you are interested I could send you the info and how to. Best regards,
>> Bill of
>>Georgia
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Can you post that info to this List Bill?
I'm about to borrow a large cylinder of breathing air from work and use
30 feet of 3/8ths tygon tubing to plumb into a mask that I'm going to
plug the filters off with tape.....The one way vlve on the mask will let
exhaust air escape as normal.
Well it sounds workable in theory????
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Paint quanity
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you
HAVE to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and
they cost a bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and
worked great. If you are interested I could send you the info and how
to. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Stephen Adams <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
I have decided to sell my CH 640. It is complete,
built from a quickbuild kit. The FAA inspection is
next week so it will be ready for flight testing. It
has xp-360 with Lasar ignition, full Garmin IFR stack,
autopilot, long range tanks, is painted, full 4 place
interior with comfor foam seats. I loved building it,
but have decided to get out of aviation. Contact me
off list if interested for photos and more details.
Steve Adams
__________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
I like both bill and larry's idea on the respriator. I was planning on using my
electric leaf blower on low and a sandblast type hood. Glad to hear it may work.
Jack in Clovis ca
webmaster@upac.ca wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: webmaster@upac.ca
Larry, I was in the same predicament and spoke to a good friend who has
painted several airplanes and his solution is rather simple but effective.
I purchased a disposable repirator hood from Aucklands Grainger, it's a
$20 Willson type. I then hooked up the hose inlet at the back to the
exhaust port of my shop vac with a long smooth hose I purchased from a
local hardware store and the vac was located well away from the garage.
Make sure the vac is clean however !! :) The shop vac in combination with
a repirator proved to be very effective in providing both clean fresh air
and no fumes. I'd also recommend you cover the plexi face plate with some
saran wrap to keep overspray off the shield, you can peel it off and put
more on if it happens.
The setup can be a little bit cumbersome but the money savings were great
and I'm still alive to prove it works. The amount of air from a good shop
vac is MORE than enough to keep out harmful fumes from entering the hood.
Just my $0.02 worth.
Trev Page
601HD C-IDUS
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
>
> Bill,
> Would be nice to see your fresh air respirator on the photo share
> portion of the Matronics pages
> or see a good description of what you used. Looks like several of us
> are always nearing paint but get
> stuck on the exhorbitant price of the equipment for a "one shot" usage.
> Could you help the rest of us
> with a good idea? We're always willing to learn from the guy that's
> done it.
> Thanks,
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS to paint after finishing new wheel fairings @
> www.macsmachine.com.
>
>
> JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>>
>>Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you
>> HAVE
>>to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and they cost
>> a
>>bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and worked great.
>> If
>>you are interested I could send you the info and how to. Best regards,
>> Bill of
>>Georgia
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru reliability |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I'm not sure of the best format but if each of us entered the problem we had
and how we fixed it for each engine brand, I have a Rotax 912 UL, we would
have a readily available database so we don't have to reinvent the wheel.
MORE FLYING LESS CUSSING !! Maybe it should be a part of each list for
planes too.
Leo Corbalis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Kirkland" <fdk0154.tx@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Jabiru reliability
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred Kirkland" <fdk0154.tx@cox.net>
>
> I can identify with the original author of this string. I have an NSI
> Subaru I plan to use and have heard horror stories about it and stories of
> praise. It would be nice if there were a reliable data source for the
> different engines out there but obviously that is impractical. What I
> know from my other life, you know the one where I have to earn enough to
> be an airplane builder/pilot, is that a person that is disgruntled about
> something will tell a lot more people about the issue than a person that
> is satisfied with something. Thus, you will hear the malcontents speaking
> up allot more than the contents but it would be nice to hear from other
> NSI users about their experiences positive and negative.
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Position light intensity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Hi Chuck:
Here's the regs:
Each position light intensity must equal or exceed the applicable values in=20
the following table:
Angle from right or
left of longitudinal Intensity
Dihedral angle (light included) axis, measured from (candles)
dead ahead
L and R (red and green)............. 0=B0 to 10=B0..... 40
10=B0 to 20=B0.... 30
20=B0 to 110=B0... 5
A (rear white)...................... 110=B0 to 180=B0.. 20
Looks to me that 20 'candles' will do the job!
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl tail 100% wings in the crate
N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 5/23/2005 1:01:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cfd@thegateway.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Yes,
A candle a lumen/steradian which is also the definition of a candela. =20But
what is the required intensity for the white "tail" light?
Chuck.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Crvsecretary@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Position light intensity
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
>
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> No need to contact anyone, since:
> "The Luminous Intensity of a source is the number of lumens or rays it
> emits. Luminous intensity, candlepower, is expressed in units of candles
or
> candelas. "
>
> More than you ever wanted to know about measuring light can be found at
> _http://www.westsidesystems.com/rays.html_
> (http://www.westsidesystems.com/rays.html)
>
>
> Tracy Smith
> Naugatuck, CT
> 601xl tail 100% wings in the crate
> N458XL (reserved)
>
>
> In a message dated 5/23/2005 4:05:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> howado@cwia.com writes:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Howard Carter <howado@cwia.com>
>
> Chuck,
> the ancient FAA specs measure the pos. lights in *candles*, not candela.
> FAR 23.1389. Try to find a modern light meter calibrated in candles!
> Whelan claims that their LED lights meet the specs. Might be worth
> contacting them to find out how they proved that.
> Howard Carter
Message 15
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| Subject: | Position light intensity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
...Looks to me that 20 'candles' will do the job!...
and at the speed a 601 fly's there is no chance of them being blown out...
Do not archive
Graham Kirby
601HD
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Position light intensity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
Tracy,
I want to replace my rear white bulb with LED's because the bulb draws 1.5
amps and my Jabiru 2200 only puts out 10 amps. With everything on I draw
9.5 amps and want to reduce this some. Now I know how many LED's to use.
Thanks,
Chuck D.
N701TX
----- Original Message -----
From: <Crvsecretary@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Position light intensity
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
Bill
I would be interested in how you built your respirator as I plan on painting
my 701 myself
Bob Spudis
NYTERMINAT@aol.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Paint quanity |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: deucy100@netscape.net
Bill
If you would not mind I could use any information on your respirator that you are
willing to share.
Thank you
Tom
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Jack, if you are going to paint it yourself and just as Trevor said you HAVE
>to use a fresh air respirator. I looked at commercial ones and they cost a
>bunch so I built one that all together cost about $ 60. and worked great. If
>you are interested I could send you the info and how to. Best regards, Bill of
>Georgia
>
>
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