Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Graham Kirby)
2. 05:04 AM - CH701 Redesign??? ()
3. 05:54 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (roy vickski)
4. 06:01 AM - Re: CH701 Redesign??? (jnbolding1)
5. 06:48 AM - Re: CH701 Redesign??? (Jim Pellien)
6. 07:58 AM - Re: 601 flight (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
7. 08:16 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
8. 08:32 AM - Re: CH701 Redesign??? (Jim Pellien)
9. 08:48 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Graham Kirby)
10. 08:59 AM - HELP from Brazil (Esdras Rodrigues)
11. 09:11 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
12. 09:26 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Robert Schoenberger)
13. 09:57 AM - Re: HELP from Brazil (Larry McFarland)
14. 10:42 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Bill Cardell)
15. 11:42 AM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Cliff Martin)
16. 03:04 PM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Gerald Scampoli)
17. 04:29 PM - Re: OT - Dave Austin's Supermarine Spitfire (Dave Austin)
18. 04:31 PM - Vapor Lock problem (gpjann@juno.com)
19. 08:05 PM - Re: Vapor Lock problem (Randy Stout)
20. 10:33 PM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Gary Gower)
21. 10:37 PM - Re: Fuel tank testing (Gary Gower)
22. 11:48 PM - Re: Swedish Mufflers (xl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
It's really hard to hold old one of these tanks underwater. For instance,
it'll take about 83 lbs to hold a 10 gal tank submerged. Try painting the
seams with a solution of soapy water instead.
Graham Kirby
601HD
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Attach a balloon to the air vent and inflate the tank to 5psi ( no more
o ryou will blow the welds), leave overnight and check balloon. If it is
still inflated then install your tank, if it is deflated then pump up
the tanks to 5 psi again and dunk in bathtub to find the leak (s).
Message 2
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| Subject: | CH701 Redesign??? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <burkeandsusan@verizon.net>
According to Sportplanes.com: "The STOL CH 701 aircraft is being redesigned
to meet the sLSA and eLSA standards."
Can anyone shed any light on what this means? Has it already been done?
Will it be done? Is this old news? What will the impact be to plans
purchased in April?
Any thoughts or information would be appreciated.
Burke Johnson
Irvington, VA
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: roy vickski <rvickski@yahoo.com>
This worked for me.
Do not fill with any liquid to test tank, in the event
of a leak you'll play hell trying to weld it. (voice
of experience)
Water and dish detergent 20:1 applied with a bristle
brush to a tank, plugged and pressurized by a hand
bicycle pump (this way you minimize the burst
potential).
Be careful about the 5psi!!! that equals 720 pounds
per square foot!!!
I pressurized mine up to the point it noticably bulged
and that was way less than 5psi.
Note; 10 gallons of fuel only weighs 60 pounds.
Brush the seams and bungs, a large leak makes large
bubbles, a slow seep will have a "mushroom" type
growth of very small soap bubbles.
Good luck and leak-free adventures
Roy Szarafinski
701 plans ect
Michigan
__________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Redesign??? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jnbolding1" <jnbolding1@mail.ev1.net>
Burke I asked that question of Zenith a couple months ago and was told that no
redesign is underway. I do NOT believe it however as the gross (1150 #) currently
compared to gross under sport pilot (1320#) is leaving 170# on the table.
The 701 is VERY popular and giving it a hundred pounds more payload after adding
70# of structure would be insane not to do. Maybe even 120# vs 50#. Can only
hope a lot of the new one will be compatable with the old one. Most likely
the stuff that I've built will be what's replaced. Oh well , progress. Where
in Sportplanes did you see the statement, I couldn't find it. LOW&SLOW John
>According to Sportplanes.com: "The STOL CH 701 aircraft is being redesigned
>to meet the sLSA and eLSA standards."
>Can anyone shed any light on what this means? Has it already been done?
>Will it be done? Is this old news? What will the impact be to plans
>purchased in April?
>Burke Johnson
Message 5
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| Subject: | CH701 Redesign??? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
All,
The notice you are referring to is at "SportsPlanes.com" not
"SportPlanes.com". I'm looking into the status with corporate and will pass
it on to everybody when I get the latest information.
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Region
SportsPlanes.com
www.Pellien.com/MASPL.htm
703-313-4818
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jnbolding1
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH701 Redesign???
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jnbolding1" <jnbolding1@mail.ev1.net>
Burke I asked that question of Zenith a couple months ago and was told that
no redesign is underway. I do NOT believe it however as the gross (1150 #)
currently compared to gross under sport pilot (1320#) is leaving 170# on the
table. The 701 is VERY popular and giving it a hundred pounds more payload
after adding 70# of structure would be insane not to do. Maybe even 120# vs
50#. Can only hope a lot of the new one will be compatable with the old one.
Most likely the stuff that I've built will be what's replaced. Oh well ,
progress. Where in Sportplanes did you see the statement, I couldn't find
it. LOW&SLOW John
>According to Sportplanes.com: "The STOL CH 701 aircraft is being redesigned
>to meet the sLSA and eLSA standards."
>Can anyone shed any light on what this means? Has it already been done?
>Will it be done? Is this old news? What will the impact be to plans
>purchased in April?
>Burke Johnson
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Thanks Don, I appreciate it. Yes, do come up and see her when ever you can.
Call and I'll make a point of it, Best regards, Bill
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Matt, I used mo gas in one, drained it, filled the other wing, drained it and
then filled my truck tank. I would not put water in the tank for any reason,
unless you were going to refill immediately with fuel. Rust on stuff you
know. Best of luck, Bill
Message 8
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| Subject: | CH701 Redesign??? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
All,
I just contacted the President of SportsPlanes.com regarding this thread.
No additional information is available at this time, over and above what is
already listed on the www.sportsplanes.com website.
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Region
SportsPlanes.com
www.Pellien.com/MASPL.htm
703-313-4818
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
burkeandsusan@verizon.net
Subject: Zenith-List: CH701 Redesign???
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <burkeandsusan@verizon.net>
According to Sportplanes.com: "The STOL CH 701 aircraft is being redesigned
to meet the sLSA and eLSA standards."
Can anyone shed any light on what this means? Has it already been done?
Will it be done? Is this old news? What will the impact be to plans
purchased in April?
Any thoughts or information would be appreciated.
Burke Johnson
Irvington, VA
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
Agree with not putting water inside the tank but welding one that had had
fuel in it!. Crikey, that's a scary thought. I wonder how that can be done
safely.
Graham
601HD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list- -->
Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Matt, I used mo gas in one, drained it, filled the other wing, drained it
and
then filled my truck tank. I would not put water in the tank for any
reason,
unless you were going to refill immediately with fuel. Rust on stuff you
know. Best of luck, Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | HELP from Brazil |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Esdras Rodrigues" <esdras@bestway.com.br>
Hello all,
Several months ago I began searching for an aircraft to buy here in Brazil.
I have found a Zodiac CH 601 with a NSI Subaru EA 81 on it. It was first
flown in 1998 and has 170 hours on it. It looks good and flies well too. In
the process of having a closer, and deeper look at the acft, and considering
the few hours on it, in such a long period, I had an engine oil analysis
done. The results the lab sent me read an urgent oil change, and the
presence of a high percentage of metal parts in the oil (iron, aluminum,
chrome).
Well, the last oil change performed in the acft was more than 2 years ago,
an automotive Havoline Superior 3 - 20W-50. Along this period it has flown
70 hours. The time of change itself should be a good reason to have the oil
changed long time ago, for loosing its properties. According to a few
people, the condition in which the oil has been kept makes hard to draw a
conclusion out of the results. NSI itself told me that with 170 hours total,
it is very unlikely that an EA81 in normal use conditions, even with a
sloppy oil change, would have any significant damage or wear, due to its
resistance and endurance.
I am stuck in the middle of different opinions, should I have the engine
open for better inspection, would this be to radical? Considering my lack of
experience in the field, I am a low hours pilot and this would be my first
acft, I would deeply appreciate if any of you, more familiar with the engine
and the acft, could give some ideas.
Thanks to all,
Esdras
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Graham, the way I Dee-gassed my tanks was after they were drained I let them
set open for a bit then I used the blower side of my shop vac to flush the
fumes for about an hour. CAUTION, do not get the direction of flow mixed up and
vacuum in. That will cause a fine explosion, injury and damage. Just place the
blower up wind of the tanks so any flumes expelled will dissipate safely. At
least that is how I did it and you can tell with the nose when they are bone
dry and dee gassed. You could probably use a removed power tool brass fitting
on the end of an air line to do the same thing, but then you would have to hear
the dammed compressor run for hours and the line might expel some compressor
oil and trash. FWIW. Also someone talked about stopping up holes and putting
in 5 PSI into the tank and looking for soap bubbles. I would not put any
pressure into tanks that were not designed for such. Not only is it dangerous,
if
there are fumes, but the tanks we get from ZAC will warp and distend under
pressure. May cause significant problems if you pop a seam. again FWIW, Best
regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Matt . . . I tested mine this way, but have not actually put fuel in them
(plane is not done). Install the drain valve. I use some extra large rubber
bands in my busniness, I believe they are No. 117. They're about 7" in
length. Wrap one of these around the filler neck threads to sort of level
the threads out. Then take a surgical glove and put it over the neck and
put one or two more of the large bands over the glove on the filler neck.
This should seal off the filler neck. Attach a short piece of hose to the
tank outlet with the usual clamp. I got a piece of cheap hose at the
hardware store to avoid using the "good" hose sent with the kit which I
didn't want to cut at this point. Have a small C clamp handy. Blow into the
hose until the surgical glove looks big and ridiculous. Tighten the C clamp
onto the hose. You should now have an airtight assembly. Put some
dishwasher soap in a small spray bottle with some water, shake, and spray
the seams, the filler neck area and the drain valve. Should any bubbles
appear, you got problems. If not. go away for 24 hours and come back. The
glove should still look ridiculous. It might go down a bit as I think some
air permeates through the rubber of the glove, sort of like the balloons
when we were kids always went down in a couple of days no matter how tight
the string was tied around the blow end. To add to the enjoyment of the
above process, take a blunt Sharpie pen and draw a face on the expanded
surgical glove and then ask your wife to come and look at the plane
progress. This will confirm her opinion that those who build planes are
crazy. Have a quality day. Robert Schoenberger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel tank testing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Does anyone have any good techniques for testing a fuel tank. I am just
> about to install the tank and was wondering a good way to test it before I
> close up the wing. I was thinking about just filling it with water but
> was wondering if this was smart?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Cheers
>
> Matt Archer
>
> www.zodiacxl.com
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: HELP from Brazil |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Estras,
The Subaru needs the oil changed at something like 50 hour intervals if
you're using mogas.
Not likely you've got any problems with this one, but I'd be inclined to
change the oil and fly
the plane for a couple of hours to see if more metal shows up. The
startup of a new engine or rebuild will
generate metal for a short time until it is broken in and again when it
is totally run out. If you've got problems,
the engine will generate metal in the oil rather quickly if there's a
problem and this will typically increase as
the problem works it way to engine failure. If you've not got any
additional metal in the next change, I'd want
to look inside by removing the pan and the heads. Not a huge job, but
certainly worth the time if you
need to see scoring or wear. Chrome rings will shed metal if the plane
is not run for a while so you might
start by looking at the compression in each cylinder first. Then get a
light into the plug holes and look for rough
cylinder walls, etc. Listen to the engine when rotated without the plugs
for any friction or squeeky metal sounds.
Like any other engine, they need oil and use to stay healthy.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus Subaru
do not archive
Esdras Rodrigues wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Esdras Rodrigues" <esdras@bestway.com.br>
>
>Hello all,
>
>Several months ago I began searching for an aircraft to buy here in Brazil.
>I have found a Zodiac CH 601 with a NSI Subaru EA 81 on it. It was first
>flown in 1998 and has 170 hours on it. It looks good and flies well too. In
>the process of having a closer, and deeper look at the acft, and considering
>the few hours on it, in such a long period, I had an engine oil analysis
>done. The results the lab sent me read an urgent oil change, and the
>presence of a high percentage of metal parts in the oil (iron, aluminum,
>chrome).
>
>Well, the last oil change performed in the acft was more than 2 years ago,
>an automotive Havoline Superior 3 - 20W-50. Along this period it has flown
>70 hours. The time of change itself should be a good reason to have the oil
>changed long time ago, for loosing its properties. According to a few
>people, the condition in which the oil has been kept makes hard to draw a
>conclusion out of the results. NSI itself told me that with 170 hours total,
>it is very unlikely that an EA81 in normal use conditions, even with a
>sloppy oil change, would have any significant damage or wear, due to its
>resistance and endurance.
>
>I am stuck in the middle of different opinions, should I have the engine
>open for better inspection, would this be to radical? Considering my lack of
>experience in the field, I am a low hours pilot and this would be my first
>acft, I would deeply appreciate if any of you, more familiar with the engine
>and the acft, could give some ideas.
>
>Thanks to all,
>
>Esdras
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Cardell" <Bill@flyinmiata.com>
You can run a hose off the tailpipe of your car into the tank while you
weld, if you've had gas in it.
TurboDog's Dad
Bill Cardell
www.flyinmiata.com
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
Agree with not putting water inside the tank but welding one that had
had fuel in it!. Crikey, that's a scary thought. I wonder how that can
be done safely.
Graham
601HD
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cliff Martin" <southriverent@rockbridge.net>
"Agree with not putting water inside the tank but welding one that had had
fuel in it!. Crikey, that's a scary thought. I wonder how that can be done
safely."
Graham,
I had leaks in both my LE Tanks and small Header tank. And this was on the
replacement tanks that replaced the originals, that also had small weep
leaks.
I had discovered the leaks when I filled the tanks with diesel fuel to check
the cap. fuel gauge units. Didn't leak at first,but, overnight there was
some wet spots on the table in the morning. Not wanting to send the units
back to ZAC I decided to reweld them myself. After each weld check, the
units were washed out with a soapy water solution and allowed to air dry
before welding any leak points. Had no problems with unexpected "boofs"
during the welding. (Been welding for 30 years and have had some "boofs" on
tanks that were supposedly cleaned. Diesel was used to match fuel for sender
unit purposes, but also has a higher flash point which made for safer
rewelding.
Cliff
601HDS currently in suspended animation....sigh
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gerald Scampoli" <gscampoli@hotmail.com>
Listers,
In my experience the best way to test fuel tanks for leaks is to seal all
ports with plugs and caps, except for the fuel outlet. Pipe a sensitive
altimeter into the fuel outlet through a tee fitting (with a cap).
Just with the capacity of your own lungs, you can pull a thousand feet (or
so) of altitude on the system; seal it up. Note the setting in the pressure
window and the altitude reading. In a day or so, return the pressure window
to the same setting and read the altitude. If it's lower by more than a few
feet, you have a leak. If it won't hold altitude at all, you've got a big
leak. This works well, involves no fuel or water in your tank...just takes
patience.
Finding the leak is another matter.....
Gerry Scampoli
601xl/ Corvair
Disclaimer: This sender has NO real knowledge of anything.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: OT - Dave Austin's Supermarine Spitfire |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
To the list,
I'm afraid the 601 has been ignored for a while.
The 80% scale Spitfire with 250 horses has flown five times, the last two
with wheels up. As is normal, a few adjustments have been needed. The
horizontal stab is being adjusted to bring the pitch control to neutral at
cruise speed. The ground adjustable prop has been coarsened up by 3 degrees
to increase the cruise, which was around 140 mph before the change.
It flies well without vices with an over the fence speed of 70 mph with 45
degrees flap.
I've sent Mark Townsend a couple of pictures, but don't know if he has
posted them.
Cheers,
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
Do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Vapor Lock problem |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: gpjann@juno.com
Ref: Zodiac 601HDS, with WWs Nose Bowl
100HP Corvair
Aerocarb, updraft system
I'm having a problem which seems to be fuel Vapor Locking.
Corvair shuts down after a good taxi test and has quit after a flight,
after touchdown and at idle throttle.
Engine temps are in the green, but temps in the lower cowl are close to
200 Deg. at mid to high RPMs.
I have tried more input to the bottom of the cowl, shielding and ducting
air to the gasculator, increasing exit areas, and the problem seems to
get a little worse with each mod.
Getting ready to try a fuel pump to keep gas circulating.
Would appreciate any information you may offer in helping me with this
problem.
Thanks, Greg
Message 19
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| Subject: | Vapor Lock problem |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Stout" <n282rs@earthlink.net>
Greg
First of all.... Congratulations on getting your plane in the air. Does
that make 3 Zodiacs with Corvairs flying now?
Are you sure you are dealing with vapor lock? When I was using the Revflo
carb (same concept as an Aerocarb) it would do the same thing if I didn't
get it leaned for idle fast enough. Let it idle for awhile then check a
couple of plugs to see if they are sooty. Don't let it go above an idle,
because it will clean the plugs.
I had a bout with vapor lock when the South Texas temps started climbing. I
made a flight to a nearby airport. Parked for about 15 minutes or so. When
I took off to go back home, the plane didn't seem be making the same power
it usually does. Full throttle was short about 300 rpm. When I got back I
pulled the cowl to see if there was anything noticeably wrong. I could see
that the glass fuel filter only had a small amount of fuel in it. That was
odd as it is normally completely full. I already have the return line, That
may have been all that was keeping me in the air. Without it, the vapor may
have built up event faster and choked off the supply completely. I ended up
moving the filter inside the cockpit and put a blast tube on the fuel pump.
No problems since.
Randy Stout
n282rs"at"earthlink.net
www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
> [Original Message]
> From: <gpjann@juno.com>
> To: <corvaircraft@mylist.net>; <zenith-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Date: 6/12/2005 6:31:37 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Vapor Lock problem
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: gpjann@juno.com
>
>
> Ref: Zodiac 601HDS, with WWs Nose Bowl
> 100HP Corvair
> Aerocarb, updraft system
>
> I'm having a problem which seems to be fuel Vapor Locking.
> Corvair shuts down after a good taxi test and has quit after a flight,
> after touchdown and at idle throttle.
>
> Engine temps are in the green, but temps in the lower cowl are close to
> 200 Deg. at mid to high RPMs.
>
> I have tried more input to the bottom of the cowl, shielding and ducting
> air to the gasculator, increasing exit areas, and the problem seems to
> get a little worse with each mod.
>
> Getting ready to try a fuel pump to keep gas circulating.
>
> Would appreciate any information you may offer in helping me with this
> problem.
> Thanks, Greg
Message 20
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| Subject: | Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
A latex condom will work better... Seal the intake of the the tank with a piece
of inner tube, and seal also any vent .
In the output conection of the tank, install a temporary "T" in one side of
the T a shut off valve and in the other side the condom. Inflate the condom
though the valve and close the valve. The qualitiy of the latex condom is
superior to the ballon, so there will be no leak. 24 hours without loosing pressure
will guaranty a good tank.
In case of loosing pressure, reinflate the condom and got trough the weldings
with soaped (dalicate cloth shampoo) and water. Any leak will make soap bobles...;
Saludos
Gary Gower
Zodie Rocket <zodierocket@hsfx.ca> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket"
Attach a balloon to the air vent and inflate the tank to 5psi ( no more
o ryou will blow the welds), leave overnight and check balloon. If it is
still inflated then install your tank, if it is deflated then pump up
the tanks to 5 psi again and dunk in bathtub to find the leak (s).
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL , Osprey 2 serial # 751
President: Kitchener/Waterloo RAA Chapter
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo"
Hello all,
Does anyone have any good techniques for testing a fuel tank. I am just
about to install the tank and was wondering a good way to test it before
I close up the wing. I was thinking about just filling it with water
but was wondering if this was smart?
Any suggestions?
Cheers
Matt Archer
www.zodiacxl.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Fuel tank testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
The way that is done around here for decades, in car tanks when needed, is to
conect a hose from the exhaust of a car with the engine in idle to the inlet
of the tank, then you can weld safetly. (never done it myself, do)
Saludos
Gary Gower
do not archive
Graham Kirby <gkirby@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby"
Agree with not putting water inside the tank but welding one that had had
fuel in it!. Crikey, that's a scary thought. I wonder how that can be done
safely.
Graham
601HD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list- -->
Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Matt, I used mo gas in one, drained it, filled the other wing, drained it
and
then filled my truck tank. I would not put water in the tank for any
reason,
unless you were going to refill immediately with fuel. Rust on stuff you
know. Best of luck, Bill
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Swedish Mufflers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
I forgot to mention a side benefit of the 'swedish/swiss' muffler
- lower cabin temps.
The stock tailpipes dump the exhaust heat under the cabin.
This creates an effective cabin heater (if you don't believe put your
hand on the floor). The longer 'swedish/swiss' mufflers dump the heat
behind the cabin. I've been much more comfortable, in the sun, since
installing the new mufflers.
Joe E
N633Z CH601XL @ BFI
Jabiru 3300 - Sensenich 64x48 wood prop
204 hours (working towards equaling my 1077.5 hours build time)
P.S. I permanently installed my Lift Reserve / AOA Probe.
Scott Laughlin machined the probe - 'thanks' Scott'.
The weather turned yesterday, so I couldn't test it.
I had a passenger today and was at gross weight.
In turbulence, bouncing around, the gauge bounced also.
So I kept the speed up. I did a full stall landing, not
on purpose - from 2 feet up. The gauge was reading about
0.3" h2o and my airspeed was 50 mph (from quick glances).
I expected a bit more lift but I usually am not at gross
weight. It looks like everything worked as it should.
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