Zenith-List Digest Archive

Sat 07/23/05


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:26 AM - Re: XL Rudder fairing (Larry McFarland)
     2. 07:48 AM - Propeller pitch (DICK WILBERS)
     3. 09:22 AM - Re: Propeller pitch (Kelly Meiste)
     4. 11:28 AM - Re: Re: acrylic to aluminum cement ? (Bob Miller)
     5. 12:15 PM - The New Kid on the Block ... (Michael & Donna Heit)
     6. 12:36 PM - Re: Re: acrylic to aluminum cement ? (Chris Boultinghouse)
     7. 01:08 PM - Re: Propeller pitch (Larry McFarland)
     8. 02:56 PM - Photo Assembly Guide (Dave VanLanen)
     9. 03:48 PM - Re: srut fittings 701 (jackyager)
    10. 05:08 PM - 801: Static Port Location (Scott and Valeree Stout)
    11. 07:46 PM - Re: Photo Assembly Guide (Paul Mulwitz)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:26:57 AM PST US
    From: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
    Subject: Re: XL Rudder fairing
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> Rico, I presume you are talking of the saddle that blends the fuselage to the leading edge of the rudder. The front edge of the piece can be made to fit under the skin and still be removed without removing the rudder. The turnbuckle on my up-elevator is positioned beneath this piece to make it accessible. Removable, means 3 screws that go thru the forward skin into u-nuts in the fiberglass piece are removed. Two screws that go through the low side edges are removed and the lower sides are flexed outward, then it's pulled rearward under the rudder and it's out. Pictures can be seen on my rudder page, but I've provided a couple of links showing the piece and position. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudelev.gif http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudderfairing.gif Good luck, Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com Rico Voss wrote: > I dont see any way >to get the tucked-under fairing off without pulling the >rudder. > >And someone suggested putting the up-elevator cable >turnbuckle under that fairing, for easier adjustment. >Sounds like a great idea. >Has anyone found any down-side to this plan?? > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:48:49 AM PST US
    From: "DICK WILBERS" <RWILBERS@tampabay.rr.com>
    Subject: Propeller pitch
    0.38 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters --> Zenith-List message posted by: "DICK WILBERS" <RWILBERS@TAMPABAY.RR.COM> Dear list: I would like some feedback from those of you who have Stratus Subaru engines installed on the 601 HDS airframe, utilizing a 3 blade Warp Drive propeller, regarding the pitch angles necessary for all around flight characteristics. I am in a body brace for 3 months following spinal reconstructive surgery, and I have a lot of time to do nothing but plan and make copious notes and "to-do's". Unfortunately I can't even be a passenger in a car until Aug 15th, but what a great opportunity to fly my hospital bed around the joint. This information would be invaluable to me since I plan to "hang" the prop the very day I return to work this fall, and I would like all this data available before I "hang" the prop. Very best regards to all...................Dick Wilbers, 601 HDS, Stratus, Ram heads and "spitfire" or "mustang" type radiator.


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:22:05 AM PST US
    From: "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste@jcwifi.com>
    Subject: Re: Propeller pitch
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste@jcwifi.com> Dick, First off sorry to hear your laid up for the next 3 months, hope everything turns out OK for you. I'm flying the HD version with Stratus & warp. I'm currently at 16 deg with my blades for max cruise for my HD. I normally run 4,000 rpm which will give me 95 - 100 mph. I'm flying out of a 1,400 foot grass strip now so I'm thinking of backing off my pitch to the 14-15 deg range to help out but will have to sacrifice a little on cruise. My first 40 hours I was at 12 deg, this gave excellent climb but NO cruise. Also was hard to land as the HD wing did not want to stop flying, as 12 deg and anything over a high idle would keep me in the air. Like I said this info is for my HD your S will be slightly different but I hope this gives you something to go by. You should also post your request to the Stratus list as you may get a better response there. owner-stratus-list-server@matronics.com Good luck with the back, Kelly Meiste 601 HD Stratus Tri-Gear (120 hours) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > Dear list: I would like some feedback from those of you who have Stratus > Subaru engines installed on the 601 HDS airframe, utilizing a 3 blade Warp > Drive > propeller


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:28:06 AM PST US
    From: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: acrylic to aluminum cement ?
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com> One of the RV List reports on Sikaflex indicates that it is sensitive to UV, and if it used on a canopy bow there needs to be a band of paint on the exterior of the canopy to shield the adhesive. If true, might failure to provide the band of paint result in a really nasty surprise? Are Lexel and PolyZap also UV degradable? Bob


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:15:14 PM PST US
    From: "Michael & Donna Heit" <rmrlpfm@centurytel.net>
    Subject: The New Kid on the Block ...
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Michael & Donna Heit" <rmrlpfm@centurytel.net> http://www.skykits.com/ Impressive company, imp[ressive aircraft, impressive price for a complete kit ...


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:36:08 PM PST US
    From: "Chris Boultinghouse" <sonex260@austin.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: acrylic to aluminum cement ?
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Boultinghouse" <sonex260@austin.rr.com> When using Sikaflex to bond the canopy to the frame, there is a special primer that is painted on the inside of the acrylic (and on the frame), after scuffing and cleaning with a special cleaner. This primer not only improves the bond, but also provides additional UV protection. There are also UV-resistant versions of the Sikaflex. I glued the canopy on my Sonex using Sikaflex. Pictures can be found here: http://sonex260.wheelsup.org/images/canopy/index.htm For what it's worth, I think Sikaflex is major overkill for gluing the rubber trim on the Zodiac canopy. It's relatively expensive, and you must buy fairly large quantities. PolyZap would be the glue of choice here. Regards, Chris Boultinghouse Austin, TX Sonex N916EC (reserved) http://sonex260.wheelsup.org DO NOT ARCHIVE > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Miller > Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 1:27 PM > To: zenith-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: acrylic to aluminum cement ? > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com> > > One of the RV List reports on Sikaflex indicates that it is sensitive > to UV, and if it used on a canopy bow there needs to be a band of > paint on the exterior of the canopy to shield the adhesive. If > true, might failure to provide the band of paint result in a really > nasty surprise? > > Are Lexel and PolyZap also UV degradable? > > Bob


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:08:26 PM PST US
    From: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
    Subject: Re: Propeller pitch
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> Dick, The Warp Drive 70-inch 3-blade Prop on a Subaru powered 601HDS has been flown with pitch settings from 10 to 18 degrees. Optimum pitch begins at the15-degrees recommended by the prop manufacturer as a starting point. At full gross test flight, this is a good place to be. To have a pitch shorter than 15 at gross would put you at a disadvantage when you need effective control and airspeed. I believe we lost a 601HDS Flight Advisor a few months ago because the pitch may have been inadvertently too short to maintain stable flight. He had good acceleration, but didnt appear to get airspeed much above stall speed. A 15-degree pitch provides acceleration that is astounding and climb out is awesome, but cruise at a comfortable 4400 rpm is in the 95 mph area. With the pitch at 15-degrees, acceleration is still very good, climb out is a little less, cruise at 4400 rpm is nearer 100 and the prop noise seems to be less. At 16-degrees, acceleration is good to lift off, but climb is nearer 850 fpm and cruise at 4400 rpms will slowly inch up past 105 or so. Ive been reluctant to fly it at 17-degrees because there are days that humidity, a passenger, wing loading and the short grass strips with corn at each end might make takeoff a risky situation. Ive also found final approach needs to start far enough out to set up a stable approach and avoid rapid loss of altitude from a tight turn. Only once, a quick application of throttle with a 16-degree pitch slowed my decent enough to make a smooth touch down on rolling out of the turn. I dont think 17-degrees would have been enough to respond on such short notice. These elements often combine without much planning on our part, so thats why Id recommend 15-degrees for flight testing, and 16 to 16-1/2 degrees after youve found your comfort zone with two dozen landings. One day, I'd like to find a good variable pitch prop that would widen the 601HDS climb-cruise optimums. I'm very pleased to hear you're on the mend and will soon resume working your adventure with the plane. Best, Larry McFarland DICK WILBERS wrote: >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "DICK WILBERS" <RWILBERS@TAMPABAY.RR.COM> > >Dear list: I would like some feedback from those of you who have Stratus Subaru engines installed on the 601 HDS airframe, utilizing a 3 blade Warp Drive >propeller, regarding the pitch angles necessary for all around flight characteristics. > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:56:06 PM PST US
    From: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Photo Assembly Guide
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net> I just received my manual for the upcoming August builder's workshop. I noticed that, in addition to the plans, it contains a detailed Photo Assembly Guide for construction of the rudder. When I received my full set of plans after putting in my order for the full kit (which I will pick up at the workshop), the mailing included a Construction Manual, but no Photo Assembly Guide. Will I get a Photo Assembly Guide for the rest of the airframe when I attend the workshop, or does this exist only for the rudder? Thanks, Dave Van Lanen Madison, WI davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net Zodiac XL Do Not Archive


    Message 9


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    Time: 03:48:44 PM PST US
    From: "jackyager" <jackyager@usa.com>
    Subject: Re: srut fittings 701
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: "jackyager" <jackyager@usa.com> And Ron Lee reported earlier that Nick replaced his misaligned struts.


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:08:30 PM PST US
    From: Scott and Valeree Stout <the_stouts@worldnet.att.net>
    Subject: 801: Static Port Location
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: Scott and Valeree Stout <the_stouts@worldnet.att.net> Hello All... I've searched the archives for static port placements on the 801 and have seen the suggestions... For those with a flying 801, where are your static source locations and are there any issues with the location chosen... Thx... -Scott


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:46:56 PM PST US
    From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
    Subject: Re: Photo Assembly Guide
    --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net> >Will I get a Photo Assembly Guide for the rest of the >airframe when I attend the workshop, or does this exist only for the rudder? - I got a CD with photo guides (in color even) with my plans order. I went ahead and printed out the parts needed for my current work - alas, on my black and white laser printer. Paul XL barely started




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