Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:03 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Al Young)
2. 07:09 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Don Mountain)
3. 07:48 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
4. 08:12 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 09:32 AM - Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 (Paul Moore)
6. 10:25 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Don Mountain)
7. 10:37 AM - Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 (Paul Mulwitz)
8. 10:56 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Randy Culp)
9. 11:00 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
10. 11:04 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
11. 11:30 AM - Re: Re: Re: metal cutting-let me try it again (William Jeffries)
12. 11:39 AM - Re: Nut plate installation (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
13. 12:11 PM - Re: Re: Re: metal cutting-let me try it again (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
14. 12:14 PM - Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 (Randy L. Thwing)
15. 01:36 PM - Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 (Paul Moore)
16. 01:53 PM - 601XL Drawings (Eddie Seve)
17. 02:31 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings (ron wehba)
18. 02:34 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings (Russell J.)
19. 02:43 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings (Paul Mulwitz)
20. 02:45 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings - "developed lenght" (Carlos Sa)
21. 03:14 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings (Eddie Seve)
22. 03:42 PM - Tip rib cutout (William J. Naumuk)
23. 04:05 PM - Materials List for a 701 (Zodie Rocket)
24. 06:24 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings (Bill Steer)
25. 09:48 PM - Re: 601XL Drawings ()
26. 10:08 PM - Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Al Young" <armyret@one-eleven.net>
Don-
I'll try to answer the questions you pose.
Yes- the rivets go thru the cover then thru the nut plate. The cover is
then put inside the wing access hole, and the machine nuts go first thru the
wing skin and then thru the cover and into the nut plate. Using the flat
head on your rivet gun will flatten the head of the rivet. You might want
to bevel the hole in the cover to compensate for the flatten rivet head. I
personally didn't.Don't worry about the end of the rivet. It's inside the
wing and will not be in the way of anything. I'm not sure if I understand
your concern about pulling the rivets. The only tool you need is your
penumantic rivet puller or if you don't have one, your hand puller with the
flat head on it. It's the same puller you are using on the rest of your
plane. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Al Young
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Don Mountain <mountain4don@yahoo.com>
My kit from ZAC does not have "pop" rivets in this
size, 3/32". It has little solid rivets with a flat
head that are beveled on the inside of the head toward
the shank. So, apparently from another post, I can
just countersink the #40 hole to fit the bevel on the
rivets, and then just lay the cover plate on a steel
anvil to hold the rivets flush with the surface of the
plate, slip the nutplates over the rivets protruding
from the back of the cover plate, and peen the rivet
ends over with a steel punch. Resulting in a flat
surface on the cover plate that will then sit flat on
the inside of the skin when the screws are tightened
through the skin, cover plate and into the nutplates
on the back side of the cover plate. Will a flat
ended punch work well on peening these rivets? Or
should I have one that is dished?
Don
601XL, tail done, finishing up wings
> Using the flat
> head on your rivet gun will flatten the head of the
> rivet. You might want
> to bevel the hole in the cover to compensate for the
> flatten rivet head. I
> personally didn't.Don't worry about the end of the
> rivet. It's inside the
> wing and will not be in the way of anything. I'm
> not sure if I understand
> your concern about pulling the rivets. The only
> tool you need is your
> penumantic rivet puller or if you don't have one,
> your hand puller with the
> flat head on it. It's the same puller you are using
> on the rest of your
> plane.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Just about anything will work OK.
Nutplates are a venture into the world of solid rivetting techniques.
The countersunk solid rivets you have are what holds together pretty
much the entire airframe of a Vans kit for example.
The anvil technique you describe is what is known as "back rivetting"
but you don't do it with the cover plate in place because the rivet
heads will make a mess of the cover plate as they get driven back thru.
Back rivetting is normally done with $200 air chisel, but I wouldn't do
this as you need a the special head to stop it slipping off the tail of
the rivet.
I would use a steel shim instead of the cover plate to hold the rivets
in flush. If you know of someone building an RV ir similar you could
borrow a rivet squeezer with flat heads...This simply crushes the rivet
between the jaws.
If your really macho even a pair of large pliers will do the job. The
rivets are not structural so you don't need a perfect set for a
nutplate.
Soapbox Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don
Mountain
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Nut plate installation
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Don Mountain <mountain4don@yahoo.com>
My kit from ZAC does not have "pop" rivets in this size, 3/32". It has
little solid rivets with a flat head that are beveled on the inside of
the head toward the shank. So, apparently from another post, I can just
countersink the #40 hole to fit the bevel on the rivets, and then just
lay the cover plate on a steel anvil to hold the rivets flush with the
surface of the plate, slip the nutplates over the rivets protruding from
the back of the cover plate, and peen the rivet ends over with a steel
punch. Resulting in a flat surface on the cover plate that will then
sit flat on the inside of the skin when the screws are tightened through
the skin, cover plate and into the nutplates on the back side of the
cover plate. Will a flat ended punch work well on peening these rivets?
Or should I have one that is dished?
Don
601XL, tail done, finishing up wings
> Using the flat
> head on your rivet gun will flatten the head of the rivet. You might
> want to bevel the hole in the cover to compensate for the flatten
> rivet head. I personally didn't.Don't worry about the end of the
> rivet. It's inside the wing and will not be in the way of anything.
> I'm not sure if I understand your concern about pulling the rivets.
> The only tool you need is your penumantic rivet puller or if you don't
> have one, your hand puller with the flat head on it. It's the same
> puller you are using on the rest of your plane.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Oops I misunderstood how this worked...I thought the cover got bolted to
the nutplates, looks like the nutplates get rivetted to the cover?
If so then yes this is what gets laid down on the anvil with the rivets
poking up frm underneath and thru the nutplate lugs...Simply bash the
tails of the rivets whith hammer and or punch...Or squeez line I
described.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Nut plate installation
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
--> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Just about anything will work OK.
Nutplates are a venture into the world of solid rivetting techniques.
The countersunk solid rivets you have are what holds together pretty
much the entire airframe of a Vans kit for example.
The anvil technique you describe is what is known as "back rivetting"
but you don't do it with the cover plate in place because the rivet
heads will make a mess of the cover plate as they get driven back thru.
Back rivetting is normally done with $200 air chisel, but I wouldn't do
this as you need a the special head to stop it slipping off the tail of
the rivet.
I would use a steel shim instead of the cover plate to hold the rivets
in flush. If you know of someone building an RV ir similar you could
borrow a rivet squeezer with flat heads...This simply crushes the rivet
between the jaws.
If your really macho even a pair of large pliers will do the job. The
rivets are not structural so you don't need a perfect set for a
nutplate.
Soapbox Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don
Mountain
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Nut plate installation
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Don Mountain <mountain4don@yahoo.com>
My kit from ZAC does not have "pop" rivets in this size, 3/32". It has
little solid rivets with a flat head that are beveled on the inside of
the head toward the shank. So, apparently from another post, I can just
countersink the #40 hole to fit the bevel on the rivets, and then just
lay the cover plate on a steel anvil to hold the rivets flush with the
surface of the plate, slip the nutplates over the rivets protruding from
the back of the cover plate, and peen the rivet ends over with a steel
punch. Resulting in a flat surface on the cover plate that will then
sit flat on the inside of the skin when the screws are tightened through
the skin, cover plate and into the nutplates on the back side of the
cover plate. Will a flat ended punch work well on peening these rivets?
Or should I have one that is dished?
Don
601XL, tail done, finishing up wings
> Using the flat
> head on your rivet gun will flatten the head of the rivet. You might
> want to bevel the hole in the cover to compensate for the flatten
> rivet head. I personally didn't.Don't worry about the end of the
> rivet. It's inside the wing and will not be in the way of anything.
> I'm not sure if I understand your concern about pulling the rivets.
> The only tool you need is your penumantic rivet puller or if you don't
> have one, your hand puller with the flat head on it. It's the same
> puller you are using on the rest of your plane.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
I guess I could chime in here since I'm putting and old, antiquated O-200-A
in my XL. The reasons Jim mentioned about getting service and help
virtually anywhere is the main reason I chose the O-200. That and it's long
proven record of durability and TBO. Weight is certainly a consideration,
but it's lighter than any of the Sub conversions (have built and flown 2 of
these now) and with lightweight starter and alternator, it's almost
identical to the Jab3300.
I got mine on eBay for $3200. But I had some serious conversations with the
guy first and you gotta know, I have built engines all my life from lawn
mowers to 300 ton mining trucks. This one needed some valves, guides, and
cylinder work that cost me $350 total at the local auto machine shop, as
well as the normal bearings, seals, gaskets, etc. Granted, list prices for
parts are way out of line for these engines, but shop around and relatively
cheap parts are not hard to find. The only thing I did not get cheap was
main bearings - $700 from Superior, but that is still quite a bit less than
list. I was also graced with the fact that things like mags, carb, oil pump
gears, crank shaft and cam are all within new specs so no extra expenses
there.
For those of you who have even basic mechanical skill, the O-200 is an
extremely simple engine internally and tolerances are very loose compared to
most - air cooling requires a bit more room to handle the wide variations in
operating temps. It should be no real challenge to most folks with overhaul
manuals and specs also readily available. The engine is now completely
built, to factory tolerances (blueprinted) for a total of $4900. That
includes spin on oil filter adapter, new oil cooler, and Ex-Cell-O fuel
injection system. I'm not sure I'll use it, but would love to upgrade to
electronic ignition and fuel injection.
This is just my opinion of course, but I made the right choice and it seems
that everyone's opinion of purchase prices and overhaul costs are based on
certified aircraft and A/P overhaul history and not experimental,
do-it-yerself homebuilding. Now, let the games begin.....!!!!!!!!!!!!
Paul
XL - O200
On gear, working on instruments and canopy
Message 6
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| Subject: | Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Don Mountain <mountain4don@yahoo.com>
> looks like the nutplates get rivetted
> to the cover?
Yes, with the surface of the cover flat, so the rivets
need to be flat there.
> If so then yes this is what gets laid down on the
> anvil with the rivets
> poking up frm underneath and thru the nutplate
> lugs...Simply bash the
> tails of the rivets whith hammer and or punch...Or
> squeez line I
> described.
And I don't need to heat the rivets? I have only
worked with structural rivets supporting vibrating
machinery in buildings, and the smallest we ever used
were 3/4" diameter shanks. Although I do drive rivets
cold for mounting sections in a sickel mower on my
farm machinery. I just put those on the anvil and
peen them down with a ball peen hammer.
Don
Message 7
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| Subject: | Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>I'm not sure I'll use it, but would love to upgrade to
>electronic ignition and fuel injection.
Thanks, Paul.
That was a very interesting story about engine selection and
rebuilding. (I still plan to buy a new Jab 3300, but I don't have
your engine experience.)
I can't say what will happen if you put the fuel injection on the
O-200, but I can tell you those planes I have flown with fuel
injection were a lot smoother than anything with a carburetor. You
also gain by not having to install carb heat. Aircraft fuel
injection units seem to include automatic air intake port selection
which takes care of any icing problems. Also, with real fuel
injection (like on Diesels) the fuel is not mixed with air until it
is in the cylinder so icing is unlikely anyway.
Good luck,
Paul
XL barely started
do not archive
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Culp" <randy_culp@hotmail.com>
Don:
No heating required.
The aluminum in these rivets is pretty soft. It "work hardens" when you
"squish" it to get more strength.
Randy
XL, Corvair
do not archive
>And I don't need to heat the rivets? I have only
>worked with structural rivets supporting vibrating
>machinery in buildings, and the smallest we ever used
>were 3/4" diameter shanks. Although I do drive rivets
>cold for mounting sections in a sickel mower on my
>farm machinery. I just put those on the anvil and
>peen them down with a ball peen hammer.
>
>Don
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Don, just test pound a couple. You can buy a zillon for pennys from Spruce,
Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Frank, you are only going to confuse the boy with $200. tools and steel shims
and such. Don, just counter sink the heads, sandwich the plate and pound flat
the little ends. Sorry Frank, I just had to say that, Ha. Bill of Georgia
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RE: metal cutting-let me try it again |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: William Jeffries <vair601@yahoo.com>
Kevin,
Hi, I'm new to this list, but not to working with
metal.
Many people have offered up very good advise so I
thought I would just add a few other points. Anytime
that you are working with aluminum as for cutting or
grinding you need to lubricate the blade/tool.
Aluminum melts at a rather low temp and because of
that tend to stick to the tools doing the cutting.
You've might have seen this when drilling a thick
piece of aluminum where the material will stick to the
tip of the bit. Using the miter saw to cut aluminum
is something I've done for years. I use a little
WD-40 sprayed at the cutline to lubricate, works very
well. Bandsaws are as well a valuable tool. Here I
use parafin wax to lube the blade, just cut into the
wax abit to allow the teeth to become filled with the
wax. This reduces the blade friction as well as helps
prevent the blade from becoming peened (plugged) with
material. Also if you using a disk or belt sander to
dress your part if you sand on a piece of wax first
your abrasive won't peen (plug) up as well.
Safety was covered in another post, securely hold part
in place prior to cutting, be aware that if you are
cutting off small pieces that they can and will fly up
and try to impale you.
I hope that this information helps.
Bill Jeffries, Iowa.
Thinking of building a 601XL
Message 12
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| Subject: | Nut plate installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Isn't that what I said?...:)
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Nut plate installation
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Frank, you are only going to confuse the boy with $200. tools and steel
shims and such. Don, just counter sink the heads, sandwich the plate and
pound flat the little ends. Sorry Frank, I just had to say that, Ha.
Bill of Georgia
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: metal cutting-let me try it again |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Speaking of cutting...I could hardly believe it myself but using an
aluminium oxide abrasive whell can be used to cut aluminium bar stock
angles etc.
I use a little 6" chop saw ($34 from harbor freight) and the abrasive
wheels to do all my thick cutting...works just stinking awesome!
No galling on the wheel at all and cuts it off square
Frank
Hi, I'm new to this list, but not to working with metal.
Many people have offered up very good advise so I thought I would just
add a few other points. Anytime that you are working with aluminum as
for cutting or grinding you need to lubricate the blade/tool.
Aluminum melts at a rather low temp and because of that tend to stick to
the tools doing the cutting.
You've might have seen this when drilling a thick piece of aluminum
where the material will stick to the tip of the bit. Using the miter
saw to cut aluminum is something I've done for years. I use a little
WD-40 sprayed at the cutline to lubricate, works very well. Bandsaws
are as well a valuable tool. Here I use parafin wax to lube the blade,
just cut into the wax abit to allow the teeth to become filled with the
wax. This reduces the blade friction as well as helps prevent the blade
from becoming peened (plugged) with material. Also if you using a disk
or belt sander to dress your part if you sand on a piece of wax first
your abrasive won't peen (plug) up as well.
Safety was covered in another post, securely hold part in place prior to
cutting, be aware that if you are cutting off small pieces that they can
and will fly up and try to impale you.
I hope that this information helps.
Bill Jeffries, Iowa.
Thinking of building a 601XL
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
Good article Paul:
Could you advise which oil cooler you installed? Is the OEM Harrison in
the Continental Manual still available (or available again now that the
0-200 is back in production)? Or did you pick another?
Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas
Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore"
That includes spin on oil filter adapter, new oil cooler, and Ex-Cell-O fuel
injection system.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com>
Randy,
I bought a brand new Aero Classics 7 plate external (8000075?) from a sprint
car driver for $50 - Spruce lists it for $215. The adapter plate with hose
fittings came with the engine block so routing the oil lines wasn't a
problem. The cooler hangs off the back of the engine baffle and vents into
the open cowling. I have seen the small Harrison coolers for sale both used
and refurbished, but since I live in the SW desert, I thought a larger
cooler would be the prudent move. I'm not sure what the new models will use
- I haven't been able to find much detailed info yet.
I'll let you know how it works when I get there!
Paul
XL - O200
...
Could you advise which oil cooler you installed? Is the OEM Harrison in
the Continental Manual still available (or available again now that the
0-200 is back in production)? Or did you pick another?
Do not archive
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com>
Hi fellow listers,
I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
is often displayed underneath the length 'l' of individual parts, I have
been scratching my head about this for a few days and nothing obvious
has come to mind.
Hope this is not to dumb a question,
Eddie Seve
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Drawings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ron wehba" <rwehba@pegasusbb.com>
i think is the developed length
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL Drawings
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com>
>
> Hi fellow listers,
>
> I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
> me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
> is often displayed underneath the length 'l' of individual parts, I have
> been scratching my head about this for a few days and nothing obvious
> has come to mind.
>
> Hope this is not to dumb a question,
> Eddie Seve
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Drawings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Russell J." <entecrj@sbcglobal.net>
> I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
> me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
> is often displayed underneath the length 'l' of individual parts
> Eddie Seve
+++++
"dl" means developed length (the flat pattern size before bending)
Russell J.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Drawings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I'm glad you asked about the dl notation on the drawings.
I have been trying to figure it out too with no success. With my
laziness I just figured it must not be important for kit builders.
Paul
XL barely started
do not archive
At 01:51 PM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com>
>
>Hi fellow listers,
>
>I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
>me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
>is often displayed underneath the length 'l' of individual parts, I have
>been scratching my head about this for a few days and nothing obvious
>has come to mind.
>
>Hope this is not to dumb a question,
>Eddie Seve
>
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Drawings - "developed lenght" |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Eddie, "dl" stands for "developed lenght" - it is the lenght of the part before
bending.
If you are scratch building, this is one important piece of info.
Carlos
(CH601-HD)
--- Eddie Seve <eddie.seve@clarity.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com>
>
> Hi fellow listers,
>
> I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
> me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
> is often displayed underneath the length 'l' of individual parts, I have
> been scratching my head about this for a few days and nothing obvious
> has come to mind.
>
> Hope this is not to dumb a question,
> Eddie Seve
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 21
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com>
Thanks to everyone for the quick responses, I am building from a kit and
was not sure if this was something important that I should have / needed
to be aware of.
Happy Building / Flying
Eddie
Message 22
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
All-
Hi! I've been building/rebuilding an HDS since 2003, but figured I'd bugged
Mac enough and figured I'd join the club.
Does anyone have a loft (X-Y coordinates) of the cutout for the nose skin to
tip rib juncture? I'm having no luck with the "Pen on a stick" method called
for in the builder's manual. What kills me is, Zenith provides a loft on 6-V-9
of the plans for an HD, but leaves you hanging if you're building an HDS.
The HD has a larger, constant chord nose rib, so what I figured I'd do is lay
out the HD loft in AutoCad, measure the nose to spar distance on my project,
get a ratio between it and an HD nose rib, and shrink the full scale drawing
to fit. Figure it would give me the contour, and I could trim from there.
I'm going to start soon as I hang up BUT- I'll keep checking my e-mails, and
if anyone gets back to me with a loft, I can stop backyard engineering and get
back to building.
Thanks.
Bill
Message 23
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| Subject: | Materials List for a 701 |
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Hi List, I=92m doing some work for the HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com/"www.ch701.com website and find that I=92m in need
of a bill of materials list for a kit 701. What I=92m after is the list
you get to check out all the materials that come with the box including
the nuts and bolts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL , Osprey 2 serial # 751
President: Kitchener/Waterloo RAA Chapter
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
--
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Drawings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
"Developed length," the length of the part before it's bent into shape. If
you're scratch building, you'll need that length. I haven't checked the
latest drawings, but there were several errors on my HD drawings, so be sure
to check before cutting.
Bill
> I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
> me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Drawings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <PAULROD36@msn.com>
I spent a lot of time scratching my head over that one when I started plans-building
my fuselage, and eventually got the answer. Developed length is what you
cut the raw aluminum to before you bend it. If you're going to make a U-shaped
channel that is 20 on each flange and, say, 50 in the web, your developed length
will be 20 plus 50 plus 20, plus an allowance for each bend. Your bend lines
will use up the difference between finished and developed. In all practicality,
though, few people are that precise in their bending. But it's a good goal
to shoot for.......for which to shoot.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
Gear is finally hung, back to fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Eddie Seve<mailto:eddie.seve@clarity.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 3:51 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL Drawings
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve@clarity.com<mailto:eddie.seve@clarity.com>>
Hi fellow listers,
I'm still very new to the list and I was wondering if anyone could tell
me what the drawing symbol 'dl' indicates on the various XL drawings, it
is often displayed underneath the length 'l' of individual parts, I have
been scratching my head about this for a few days and nothing obvious
has come to mind.
Hope this is not to dumb a question,
Eddie Seve
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <PAULROD36@msn.com>
Just thought I'd point out that there are more Chevy dealers than Continental dealers,
and even more O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, and Autozones than Chevy dealers.
(Sorry, I just couldn't resist......)
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Moore<mailto:pmoore505@msn.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 11:30 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Comparison: 601XL: Continental O-200
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Moore" <pmoore505@msn.com<mailto:pmoore505@msn.com>>
I guess I could chime in here since I'm putting and old, antiquated O-200-A
in my XL. The reasons Jim mentioned about getting service and help
virtually anywhere is the main reason I chose the O-200. That and it's long
proven record of durability and TBO. Weight is certainly a consideration,
but it's lighter than any of the Sub conversions (have built and flown 2 of
these now) and with lightweight starter and alternator, it's almost
identical to the Jab3300.
I got mine on eBay for $3200. But I had some serious conversations with the
guy first and you gotta know, I have built engines all my life from lawn
mowers to 300 ton mining trucks. This one needed some valves, guides, and
cylinder work that cost me $350 total at the local auto machine shop, as
well as the normal bearings, seals, gaskets, etc. Granted, list prices for
parts are way out of line for these engines, but shop around and relatively
cheap parts are not hard to find. The only thing I did not get cheap was
main bearings - $700 from Superior, but that is still quite a bit less than
list. I was also graced with the fact that things like mags, carb, oil pump
gears, crank shaft and cam are all within new specs so no extra expenses
there.
For those of you who have even basic mechanical skill, the O-200 is an
extremely simple engine internally and tolerances are very loose compared to
most - air cooling requires a bit more room to handle the wide variations in
operating temps. It should be no real challenge to most folks with overhaul
manuals and specs also readily available. The engine is now completely
built, to factory tolerances (blueprinted) for a total of $4900. That
includes spin on oil filter adapter, new oil cooler, and Ex-Cell-O fuel
injection system. I'm not sure I'll use it, but would love to upgrade to
electronic ignition and fuel injection.
This is just my opinion of course, but I made the right choice and it seems
that everyone's opinion of purchase prices and overhaul costs are based on
certified aircraft and A/P overhaul history and not experimental,
do-it-yerself homebuilding. Now, let the games begin.....!!!!!!!!!!!!
Paul
XL - O200
On gear, working on instruments and canopy
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