Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:28 AM - Re: Fiberglass Tip (Bob Miller)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: Jabiru Engine Seminar--A brief report 0.12 MISSING_HEADERS ... (Bob Miller)
3. 04:47 AM - (Bob Miller)
4. 06:21 AM - Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues (Trevor Page)
5. 06:22 AM - Re: First flight of N414PZ (n801bh@netzero.com)
6. 06:37 AM - Re:Crow hops and first flights (Gig Giacona)
7. 06:45 AM - Re: (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
8. 07:26 AM - Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues (Larry McFarland)
9. 07:41 AM - Re: Fiberglass Tip (Larry McFarland)
10. 08:12 AM - Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues (Paul Hartl)
11. 08:36 AM - Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues (Randy Culp)
12. 08:58 AM - "Mark Stauffer" (Paul Hartl)
13. 09:41 AM - Re: (Brian Briggerman)
14. 02:03 PM - Packing List for a 701 Kit (CH701)
15. 02:45 PM - Re: Source for Adell clamps ()
16. 02:51 PM - X-Plane 601XL (HeatonHE@aol.com)
17. 03:22 PM - Re: Packing List for a 701 Kit (Rick R)
18. 03:40 PM - Re: Packing List for a 701 Kit (Zodie Rocket)
19. 04:43 PM - Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues (Mark Stauffer)
20. 05:00 PM - Introduction (William J. Naumuk)
21. 05:01 PM - Re: Packing List for a 701 Kit (Rick R)
22. 06:42 PM - Re: Introduction (Mike Fortunato)
23. 06:44 PM - Paul Hartl's Canopy Crossbar - 601XL Canopy (John Adamson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Tip |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
Larry,
Good point.
Jabiru uses epoxy resin, and I can't speak for polyester resin.
Paul Mulwitz clearly knows more about epoxy than I do, and the
shrinking he mentions with polyester resin might well make it
unsuitable for this technique. Now I'm also wondering about drying
times, i.e. will the plastic slow the dry time for epoxy. I'll be
doing some experimenting soon ("soon" in airplanebuilding time, which
generally turns out not to be soon in normal time) , and will let you
know if there's a problem.
Bob
On 8/17/05, Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Bob,
> Would this process work with polyester resin based fiberglassing?
> This is truly a great idea if it would work. I don't work in epoxy
> but have been looking for a better way to extricate product from the
> mold, which is sometimes difficult.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Engine Seminar--A brief report 0.12 MISSING_HEADERS |
...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
Bill,
I know what you mean, I'd have bought one in a heartbeat rather than
spend the time and money for travel and other costs.
Before going there I'd thought a DVD would be possible, but once we
got started it became clear that the seminar would have been really
difficult to videotape live, and would have been so intrusive that
those of us attending would have been short-changed. We moved around
a lot between the mounted engines in the hangar and a disassembled
engine in the classroom, and parts were handed around between
participants while drawings were being made on an easel in front of
the class. From my own (limited) experience of making educational
tapes, I think it would take a week of professional videotaping and
editing to do the content justice.
Bob
On 8/16/05, JAPhillipsGA@aol.com <JAPhillipsGA@aol.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Bob, sounds like such a seminar was a real benefit. Did Pete mention why he
> didn't video/CD the whole thing for resale and distribution to all us poor
> stiffs out working our tails off to pay for FWF kits ? Seems like a product
I
> would pay for, maybe many others would pay for same. Pete, you reading this ?
> Real Good idea, Right ? I don't expect any compensation for my good ideas,
> course if you agree and it makes you some doe you could send me a complementary
> Econo Tuning Kit for my 3300 in appreciation and gratitude, Best regards, Bill
> of Georgia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
Somehow I managed to leave the subject line off this message the first
time, so will try again.
I'm having a very difficult time fitting the flashing at the forward
end of the canopy arms on the forward tilting canopy. If anybody has
photos of how the Forward Top Skin 6F16-4 and the canopy Side Cover
6C3-6 actually fit together (both in canopy closed and canopy open
postions, if possible), I'd greatly appreciate seeing them. It looks
like this area would be a major entryway for water (as well as really
ugly) if not done properly.
Many thanks
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Mark, the forward opening canopy is by far the most frustrating part
of building a 601! (I spent 1 month building it) I know a few people
who built one and they all agree.
Sure beats the old side-opening one though for safety so the extra
pain is worth it.
On mine I spent extra time bending the square tubing to completely
conform to the side edges and I only have 1/2" of outside play on
either side of the latches. This is a good thing because you need the
flexibility to make sure things fit properly. 1" is a bit much if you
ask me, that will put a lot of stress on the rear tube and thus the
holes in the canopy.
Once I got out to the field and starting tweaking I found that
latching the canopy has difficult so I raised the latch catches on
the fuse sides by adding some washers under the bolts. It now latches
very well. I do have a bit of a gap in the side flashing (at least
it's even all the way back) but I have not noticed any air coming in
at all, I wouldn't worry about sealing up that space. Latching the
canopy requires a good squeeze on either side and then a firm push on
the rear tube to make sure it caught well.
We've had such a hot summer though that I have to close the canopy
and get going quick otherwise you will ROAST in time!
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD 22 hours
On Aug 17, 2005, at 9:54 PM, Mark Stauffer wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Stauffer"
> <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
>
> Fellow 601XL builders,
>
> Have you experienced the following: 1) rear of canopy wants to bow
> outboard
> so much so that you will have to pull in the sides (3/4" each side)
> and then
> push them down to latch? 2) the inside flashing rubs against the
> panel side
> enough to leave marks on the inside flashing?
>
> If this has happened to you, how in the world did you fix it? I'm
> at my wits
> end! Did you just accept the flaw and move on? Is it really
> important as
> long as I can latch it? What will happen in the cold when I'm
> having to pull
> in each side to latch it? Will the canopy start to crack?
>
> The problem got worse with the inside flashing rubbing against the
> panel
> sides. That's what's pushing the rest of the frame outward.
>
> Does anyone have interior and exterior pictures both in the down
> position
> and open position? I'd like to see how you made the transitions
> between
> interior/exterior flashings, side panels, etc.
>
> Sorry this is so disjointed. I'm so frustrated I can't see
> straight. I've
> spent 70 hours so far on this canopy and this problem along with
> the almost
> complete lack of guidance on the part of the builders manual has
> just got me
> frazzled. All the holes drilled out nicely, no cracks, and the
> canopy itself
> fits nicely but I can't seem to get this latch and frame
> combination to work
> correctly.
>
> Please help before I put the damn thing up for sale on E-bay!! ;-)
>
> P.S. I picked up my Jabiru 3300 today from the freight company. At
> least
> that was a small bright spot today!
>
> Mark Stauffer
> Odenton, MD
> Frustrated 601XL builder
> Wings finished, tail finished, fuselage mostly finished. Waiting on
> FWF kit.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: First flight of N414PZ |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
You builders out there, keep it up. 7 years was a long time, but it's pretty
amazing
to actually fly in something you built with your own two hands!
N414PZ flies - and beautifully!
Paul
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Congrats to you. I can relate to the "busy" airport and all the biz jets..........
Here in Jackson Hole I did meet the tower controllers before my first flight,
actually they heard about my V-8 powered 801 and came looking for me to see
the creation up close. They were and still are "very" helpful during any hiccups.
How is Winston Ellis coming along with his 701?
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
You builders out there, keep it up. 7 years was a long time, but it's pretty
amazing
to actually fly in something you built with your own two hands!
N414PZ flies - and beautifully!
Paul
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Congrats to you. I can relate to the "busy" airport and all the biz jets..........
Here in Jackson Hole I did meet the tower controllers before my first flight,
actually they heard about my V-8 powered 801 and came looking for me to see
the creation up close. They were and still are "very" helpful during any hiccups.
How is Winston Ellis coming along with his 701?
BenHaas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re:Crow hops and first flights |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox.net>
Paul is dead on with his statements and I couldn't agree more. In addition
let me expand on them some what. First think about what you are trying to
learn during the hops. I would assume you are looking for misrigged issues
that will cause the aircraft to roll, yaw or pitch in um commanded or
incorrect ways. With the exception of yaw you probably won't catch these
items while in ground effect and if you do they may well be issues that can
be overcome with proper control input. BUT if you are just hopping you won't
have time to diagnoise the problem before you are back on the ground.
Think about it. Let's say you are on a 6000' runway. you use a 1000' feet of
it to take off. That leaves 5000'. You need 2000' to land. At 60 mph that
gives you at most 30 seconds to figure out what ever it is you need to
figure out.
If crow hops were a good idea I think you'd see the AF test pilots doing
them with F22s at Edwards.
My 2 cents.
GigG
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
Hi All,
Thanks for the many notes of congratulations - it's nice to hear from so
many
on the list - and it puts the pressure on to move on to Act Two!
My two cents on "land-backs", or "crow-hops":
I'm only a lowly 100-hour pilot, with about half in a 172 and half in an
Archer
II
(similar to a Cherokee 180), and my (very limited) experience is that a crow
hop
is a maneuver that requires some practice. I practiced landing the Archer
flaps up, which was beneficial, but I didn't practice crow hops, and I
should have. (I also had the benefit of doing some flying in Joe Edwards XL
and Tim Egan's HD).
In retrospect, I think crow hops are a slightly more advanced maneuver that
should be practiced ahead of time, in type, if at all possible. You are
doing
something that requires a good sense of timing and feel for the airplane -
which
is still a bit of an unknown - and all of it is at 75 mph and very close to
the
ground.
I think it may be a good idea to know how your airplane will handle when you
can't fall very far, but you do have a lot of speed and without excellent
control,
you could hurt it there, too. In contrast, a takeoff is simple and
something you
have
lots of practice at.
So, in my humble opinion, and based on very limited (but recent) experience,
I'd
highly recommend that if you do choose to test your aircraft's flying
qualities
near to the ground with crow hops, that you practice ahead, preferably with
a CFI sitting next to you, and if at all possible, in type.
Just my two cents .....
Paul
Message 7
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Bob, I remember well the frustration on that critical point of assembly. I
tore through all the ZAC photo manuals and the builder's photo libraries trying
to find the correct photo angle that would pass the clue. I don't remember
finding one single, but there was a group of several that helped. I am sorry I
can't tell you specifically which library they were in after all this time.
The second thing I believe would help is find a XL and take your own photos
(course if the owner approves). ZAC is short one critical photo in our manual
that would solve the problem of how the forward bow and outside/inside pieces
all come together. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Mark,
I shortened the inside flashing so it rolls in before getting to the
panel. Did likewise at the rear
bow. The complete frame has to be a fit before attaching the canopy.
You still can make adjustments
in the canopy frame after fitting if necessary, but you'd have to remove
the acrylic to work with it.
These links show the inside ends of my trim flashing and the relative
position of the bows to the panel
and turtledeck bow.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopyframefwd.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/latchlockslot.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopyframeup.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/flash&rubber.gif
Cold weather does place you in the position of having to have a "drop
fit" at the latches.
If you need to tighten the bend in the bows, I can show you how to do
that if you determine
that the flashing is not the only interference problem. Pictures on the
canopy page of
my website show progressive assembly and fitting thru completion.
No need to quit on a problem like this, it's time to rethink the
strategy and come back at it
with a plan for correcting, but first take time for some coffee and
cookies to refocus..:).
The canopy took me about 4 months to build and get it on correctly.
If you need further information, please don't hesitate to ask.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Mark Stauffer wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Stauffer" <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
>
>Fellow 601XL builders,
>
>Have you experienced the following: 1) rear of canopy wants to bow outboard
>so much so that you will have to pull in the sides (3/4" each side) and then
>push them down to latch? 2) the inside flashing rubs against the panel side
>enough to leave marks on the inside flashing?
>
>If this has happened to you, how in the world did you fix it? I'm at my wits
>end! Did you just accept the flaw and move on? Is it really important as
>long as I can latch it? What will happen in the cold when I'm having to pull
>in each side to latch it? Will the canopy start to crack?
>
>The problem got worse with the inside flashing rubbing against the panel
>sides. That's what's pushing the rest of the frame outward.
>
>Does anyone have interior and exterior pictures both in the down position
>and open position? I'd like to see how you made the transitions between
>interior/exterior flashings, side panels, etc.
>
>Sorry this is so disjointed. I'm so frustrated I can't see straight. I've
>spent 70 hours so far on this canopy and this problem along with the almost
>complete lack of guidance on the part of the builders manual has just got me
>frazzled. All the holes drilled out nicely, no cracks, and the canopy itself
>fits nicely but I can't seem to get this latch and frame combination to work
>correctly.
>
>Please help before I put the damn thing up for sale on E-bay!! ;-)
>
>P.S. I picked up my Jabiru 3300 today from the freight company. At least
>that was a small bright spot today!
>
>Mark Stauffer
>Odenton, MD
>Frustrated 601XL builder
>Wings finished, tail finished, fuselage mostly finished. Waiting on FWF kit.
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Tip |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Epoxy cures are a molecular binding that is not affected by air
exposure, only the ratio of the
mix. Much the same with polyester, but shrinkage has never been a
problem with wheel pants
fairings and any other product I've made. We did make wing skins on
Melamine panels for
a wood wing Tailwind/Cougar that could be heard to audibly separate from
the waxed panels. This was
a sign the skins were hard enough for handling. Epoxies are pricey and
toxic, so I've stayed with polyester
resins.
Larry
do not archive
Bob Miller wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
>
>Larry,
>Good point.
>Jabiru uses epoxy resin, and I can't speak for polyester resin.
>Paul Mulwitz clearly knows more about epoxy than I do, and the
>shrinking he mentions with polyester resin might well make it
>unsuitable for this technique. Now I'm also wondering about drying
>times, i.e. will the plastic slow the dry time for epoxy. I'll be
>doing some experimenting soon ("soon" in airplanebuilding time, which
>generally turns out not to be soon in normal time) , and will let you
>know if there's a problem.
>Bob
>
>On 8/17/05, Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> wrote:
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>>
>>Bob,
>>Would this process work with polyester resin based fiberglassing?
>>This is truly a great idea if it would work. I don't work in epoxy
>>but have been looking for a better way to extricate product from the
>>mold, which is sometimes difficult.
>>
>>Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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"Mark Stauffer" <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
| Subject: | Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
Hi Mark,
I didn't like the way the canopy bowed at the rear latch points
either, so I made a cross-bar of the same tubing, joining the
two sides of the rear hoop 5 or 6 inches above the deck of the
baggage compartment (when closed). This works very well,
as my canopy locks now fall right onto the striker posts and
since the width is set by the crossbar, there is now no pulling
in or pushing out, just a firm downward pull on the middle of
the crossbar locks both sides.
Note, it is important to set the crossbar some distance up on
the hoop or it will close down on top of your shoulder harness -
don't ask me how I know - and you will need to re-anchor it
higher. Another benefit of the crossbar is that it makes a
nice handle to pull the canopy down. As for attaching, I just
smashed the ends of the crossbar tubing flat with a hammer,
drilled a 3/16" hole for a bolt, and then made a couple of small
brackets with extrusion "L" material (the thicker stuff used for
longerons), riveted the little brackets onto the hoop on either side,
and drilled a couple of 3/16" holes onto the back side of the "L"s.
The only tricky part is setting the distance exactly right. What I
did was to under-estimate the distance (set by the two 3/16"
holes at the ends of the crossbar) and then elongated one of
those holes on the crossbar until the frame width was just right
to fit over the striker posts.
I guess I should take some pictures, but the upshot is that my
canopy feels a lot less flimsy side-to-side, it opens and closes
very nicely, and I have a nice handle to grab it with when it's
fully open. Oh, it also serves as a block to cargo trying to move
forward on the baggage deck - although I need a net to do that
better. The weight penalty is about 5 oz., and it really didn't
take much time to make. You'll need a bit more hoop material
- tubing really (ACS carries it) - but I had that already, too - and,
again, don't ask me why I had "extra"!
Hope this helps,
Paul
>
> Have you experienced the following: 1) rear of canopy wants to bow outboard
> so much so that you will have to pull in the sides (3/4" each side) and then
> push them down to latch? 2) the inside flashing rubs against the panel side
> enough to leave marks on the inside flashing?
--
Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Culp" <randy_culp@hotmail.com>
Paul:
That sounds like a great idea!
If you happen to get some pictures of it, please send them my way.
Heck....maybe send them to Zenith also; as it sounds to me like something
that should already be part of the plans.
Thanks;
Randy
randy_culp@hotmail.com
XL, Corvair, Working on the wings.
do not archive.
>From: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: Zenith-List Digest Server <zenith-list-digest@matronics.com>,
>"Mark Stauffer" <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601XL canopy, the frustration continues
>Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 09:09:20 -0600
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
>
>Hi Mark,
>
> I didn't like the way the canopy bowed at the rear latch points
>either, so I made a cross-bar of the same tubing, joining the
>two sides of the rear hoop 5 or 6 inches above the deck of the
>baggage compartment (when closed). This works very well,
>as my canopy locks now fall right onto the striker posts and
>since the width is set by the crossbar, there is now no pulling
>in or pushing out, just a firm downward pull on the middle of
>the crossbar locks both sides.
>
>Note, it is important to set the crossbar some distance up on
>the hoop or it will close down on top of your shoulder harness -
>don't ask me how I know - and you will need to re-anchor it
>higher. Another benefit of the crossbar is that it makes a
>nice handle to pull the canopy down. As for attaching, I just
>smashed the ends of the crossbar tubing flat with a hammer,
>drilled a 3/16" hole for a bolt, and then made a couple of small
>brackets with extrusion "L" material (the thicker stuff used for
>longerons), riveted the little brackets onto the hoop on either side,
>and drilled a couple of 3/16" holes onto the back side of the "L"s.
>The only tricky part is setting the distance exactly right. What I
>did was to under-estimate the distance (set by the two 3/16"
>holes at the ends of the crossbar) and then elongated one of
>those holes on the crossbar until the frame width was just right
>to fit over the striker posts.
>
>I guess I should take some pictures, but the upshot is that my
>canopy feels a lot less flimsy side-to-side, it opens and closes
>very nicely, and I have a nice handle to grab it with when it's
>fully open. Oh, it also serves as a block to cargo trying to move
>forward on the baggage deck - although I need a net to do that
>better. The weight penalty is about 5 oz., and it really didn't
>take much time to make. You'll need a bit more hoop material
>- tubing really (ACS carries it) - but I had that already, too - and,
>again, don't ask me why I had "extra"!
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Paul
>
>
> >
> > Have you experienced the following: 1) rear of canopy wants to bow
>outboard
> > so much so that you will have to pull in the sides (3/4" each side) and
>then
> > push them down to latch? 2) the inside flashing rubs against the panel
>side
> > enough to leave marks on the inside flashing?
>
>--
>Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A
>Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
>Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 12
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1.80 ADDRESS_IN_SUBJECT To: address appears in Subject
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
Oh, one more thing about the crossbar -
it needs to be shaped so that bows rearward, or
it will interfere with the seat tops and your sitting
position. Mine was already bowed because it
was a hoop that was mis-shapen (don't know
how that happened). I did need to take some of
the bow out, as it was too extreme, but bending
it is easy - just clamp one end and have at it!
Paul--
Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brian Briggerman" <blb7037@cox.net>
Mark:
Nickolas from Zenith said at Oshkosh " The new 3rd edition of the airplane has
a different piece coming over the panel area and it is narrower than the older
kits and there is a new canopy hinge". The new piece is where the canopy hinge
attaches. I don't know if that would solve your interference problem, but you
might get hold of Nick and see if you could modify your canopy hinge. I plan
to do that to mine when I get that far. He showed me a plane there that was
getting abrasion from opening the canopy and that's what the new parts fix.
Brian Briggerman
Arizona
Message 14
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| Subject: | Packing List for a 701 Kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "CH701" <701stol@gmail.com>
Hi All:
Someone provided a ZA eleven page 601HD kit packing list to the CH601.org
site. For plans builders, that is an incredible piece of information.
I sure would like to see the same thing available to the CH701 plans-built
group (me included)...
Can anyone help (Via email, fax, snail mail, etc)? I would be happy to
reimburse for any associated costs in making this information available to
all.
Thanks,
Todd Henning
West Bend, WI
7-4891
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Source for Adell clamps |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <PAULROD36@msn.com>
If you're looking for Adel clamps, try any Ace Hardware. Look in the plumbing department.
They're obviously not manufactured for aircraft, but they're easy and
quick to get, cheap, and they do the job.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
On to the control system!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Gingell<mailto:lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com> ; zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Source for Adell clamps
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com<mailto:lgingell@matrix-logic.com>>
Aircraft Spruce has 'em: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ms21919clamps.php<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ms21919clamps.php>
..lance
________________________________
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com> on behalf of Roger Venables
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Source for Adell clamps
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Roger Venables" <roger@nwtradingpost.com<mailto:roger@nwtradingpost.com>>
Can't seem to find a source for Adell Clamps. Any suggestions?
Roger Venables
CH 701 N143TZ , ruddeer and stabilizer finished, busy on elevator
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: HeatonHE@aol.com
There was some talk awhile back about an X-plane model of the 601 XL. I just
sent my files to Matt for posting on the Zenith List Specific Photo and File
Share. I used version 7.63 of X-plane.
I'm no expert at modeling planes in X-plane but it's as accurate as I could
get it. There are 2 files to copy into your general aircraft file, Zodiac
2.acf and Zodiac 2_paint.bmp.
If you have any problems send me a note offline.
Regards,
Herb Heaton
601XL plans built
EA-81 Turbo
Colorado Springs, CO
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Packing List for a 701 Kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick R <n701rr@yahoo.com>
Todd,
Can do easy. I'll .pdf to da Goose tomorrow. Maybe he'll slap em on CH701.
Rick
DO NOT ARCHIVE
CH701 <701stol@gmail.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "CH701" <701stol@gmail.com>
Hi All:
Someone provided a ZA eleven page 601HD kit packing list to the CH601.org
site. For plans builders, that is an incredible piece of information.
I sure would like to see the same thing available to the CH701 plans-built
group (me included)...
Can anyone help (Via email, fax, snail mail, etc)? I would be happy to
reimburse for any associated costs in making this information available to
all.
Thanks,
Todd Henning
West Bend, WI
7-4891
Rick
Orlando, FL. USA
http://www.geocities.com/n701rr/index.html
---------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Packing List for a 701 Kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
You pack em I'll slap em
cdngoose
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick R
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Packing List for a 701 Kit
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick R <n701rr@yahoo.com>
Todd,
Can do easy. I'll .pdf to da Goose tomorrow. Maybe he'll slap em on
CH701.
Rick
DO NOT ARCHIVE
CH701 <701stol@gmail.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "CH701" <701stol@gmail.com>
Hi All:
Someone provided a ZA eleven page 601HD kit packing list to the
CH601.org
site. For plans builders, that is an incredible piece of information.
I sure would like to see the same thing available to the CH701
plans-built
group (me included)...
Can anyone help (Via email, fax, snail mail, etc)? I would be happy to
reimburse for any associated costs in making this information available
to
all.
Thanks,
Todd Henning
West Bend, WI
7-4891
Rick
Orlando, FL. USA
http://www.geocities.com/n701rr/index.html
---------------------------------
--
8/18/2005
--
8/18/2005
Message 19
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| Subject: | 601XL canopy, the frustration continues |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Stauffer" <mark.stauffer@cablespeed.com>
Many, many thanks to all that responded both on and offline. It was nice to
hear that I'm not the only one that's been having these problems. This
builder list is also a pretty good support group!! ;-)
I've truly enjoyed most of my time building the plane, despite the expected
frustration. I started this project with the goal of not being one of the
approximately 65% that never finish their project. Yesterday was just a bad
one and today is much better.
Again, thanks my friends.
Mark
Do not archive
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Hi, all-
I've been trying to get through for a couple of weeks now, but Matt says
all is OK now.
I think I hold the world's record for building/rebuilding an HDS. To
date, I've
1. Built the rudder in late 2002, but got a chunk of crud caught between
the workbench and rear skin I didn't know about. I'll have to take the skin
off and either pound out the dent or re-skin.
2. Built the right wing in early 2003. Must have had one of the Z spar
shims pop out, because when I went to set the nose skin, the S9 rib buckled.
Replaced the rib. It buckled again. Ordered a new nose skin from Zenith
($480 with shipping!!) It happened again. Quit and started the left wing.
3. Left wing went together with no problems. Ordered a new nose skin for
right wing (Another $480) and it happened again. Called Nick, and he said
I'd have to tear the right wing apart down to the spar and start over. While
he was at it, he told me I put too many tack rivets in the left wing and
would have to replace that spar!
4. Started on the elevator late 2003. Was missing some sheets in my
manual for the servo attachment, Nick said to use the online XL
instructions. Guess what- someone flipped a picture. Ordered another
elevator skin from Zenith- $100+ plus shipping.
Needless to say, at this point, I decided to change my basic approach
and I swore I'd never buy another "Oops" part.
5. Rebuilt the elevator early 2004. Instead of using any one set of
instructions, I interpolated the meaning of them all and added a health dose
of common sense. Everything came out all right.
6. Started e-mail communication with Larry MacFarland early 2004. Built
an (I think) improved version of his nose skin bending rig. (Pictures, etc.
available if you ask) Bent my first skin with my son helping. The gorilla
ripped the skin out of the fixture by it's roots and kinked it before I
could stop him, God bless his heart. Bent another (Good) one. Tore the right
skeleton down to the last rivet and fabricated new spar caps. One twice.
Reassembled the spar, then built forms for the nose ribs and fabricated them
(The rear spars were still usable). Fabricated new rear skins (.025 top,
.016 bottom) and match drilled them using Mac's tool. Didn't like the looks
of the .016 bottom skin, so re-made one using .025 per Larry.
At this point, everything Clecoed well and I went for the nose skin.
Used the XL instructions to set the S6 overhang. WRONG! HDS overhang is
20mm, XL is 70mm. Came up short on the tip end. Bent another nose skin. This
time, everything Clecoed OK and I started on the left wing.
7. Bent another nose skin (At $480 a pop, I'd be broke by now if I
didn't do it myself!!). Tore the left wing down to the last rivet, and
fabricated the spar caps (One twice, again). Fabricated new skins, match
drilled, etc., etc. and put everything together with Clecos. DIDN'T LEARN
FROM MY MISTAKES AND USED THE XL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE S6 OVERHANG AGAIN!!
Stupid, stupid, stupid. BEND ANOTHER NOSE SKIN! Are you keeping track at
$480 apiece? Bless Mac for enabling me to make them for about $50!! Finally
got everything Clecoed together well.
I just finished fabricating a new set of baggage hatches, and I'm almost
to the point where I can actually make PROGRESS on my project within a
couple of weeks.
Many thanks to Mac and Jeff Small for their support and ideas.
Doesn't reading this make you feel better??
Bill Naumuk
51% Zenith HDS Kit
25% Scratch Built
Message 21
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| Subject: | Packing List for a 701 Kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick R <n701rr@yahoo.com>
they'll be packed
do not archive
Zodie Rocket <zodierocket@hsfx.ca> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket"
You pack em I'll slap em
cdngoose
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Fortunato <rsq2424@yahoo.com>
Great story Bill! Gotta say though, I think I have you
beat. Been building (on & off) since, I'm embarrassed
to say, late 1998. Lots of do-overs too numerous to
mention....some my fault, and others ZAC's. I suppose
it's people like us that should be buying airplanes
rather than building them, but what the heck. Gotta
have something to do during those 5 minutes of free
time a week. :)
Mike Fortunato
601XL
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Paul Hartl's Canopy Crossbar - 601XL Canopy |
Received-SPF: none (smtp-relay.tamu.edu: domain of j-adamson@tamu.edu does not
designate permitted sender hosts)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: John Adamson <j-adamson@tamu.edu>
Howdy, All ..
Regarding the recent discussions on canopies bowing out, Paul Hartl
described his solution: a crossbar just aft of the seatbacks. Here are
his photos, shot from different angles:
http://165.91.106.16/ch601/CanopyCrossbar1.jpg
http://165.91.106.16/ch601/CanopyCrossbar2.jpg
http://165.91.106.16/ch601/CanopyCrossbar3.jpg
http://165.91.106.16/ch601/CanopyCrossbar4.jpg
http://165.91.106.16/ch601/CanopyCrossbar5.jpg
http://165.91.106.16/ch601/CanopyCrossbar6.jpg
Looks like a pretty slick solution.
If anyone has any trouble downloading, let me know & I'll try to find a
different way to get them to you.
John Adamson
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