Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:47 AM - Zenith open house ... question (baileys)
2. 06:58 AM - Re: Zenith open house ... question (Graham Kirby)
3. 07:43 AM - 701 gear /strut assy. 7F17-1SP (Rick R)
4. 08:36 AM - Tornado Damage (Todd Osborne)
5. 08:38 AM - Re: CH701 Alternator output ()
6. 10:25 AM - Lighting,etc. (William J. Naumuk)
7. 10:58 AM - Re: 701 gear /strut assy. 7F17-1SP (NYTerminat@aol.com)
8. 11:03 AM - Re: Lighting,etc. (Larry McFarland)
9. 11:40 AM - Re: Lighting,etc. (Robert Schoenberger)
10. 01:11 PM - Re: Lighting,etc. (David Alberti)
11. 04:20 PM - Re: Lighting,etc. (William J. Naumuk)
12. 04:34 PM - Re: Lighting,etc. (William J. Naumuk)
13. 04:50 PM - Re: Lighting,etc. (William J. Naumuk)
14. 05:33 PM - Cutting the HD canopy (Bill Steer)
15. 06:00 PM - Re: Lighting,etc. (Larry McFarland)
16. 06:26 PM - Lights update (William J. Naumuk)
17. 06:28 PM - Re: Lighting,etc. (William J. Naumuk)
18. 07:19 PM - 601XL 3300 Carb Mixture (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
19. 10:27 PM - 601XL Parts for Sale (Jorge Prieto)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Zenith open house ... question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
Hello.
Yesterday at the Zenith open house I was watching front landing forks being formed.
The demonstrator used a plastic film which he called "No-Mar."
It is sandwiched with the metal being formed and prevents the brake from maring
the metal. He said the stuff was great and a piece of it lasted a long time.
Does anyone know what this stuff is and where it can be obtained?
Thanks,
Bob Bailey
Message 2
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| Subject: | Zenith open house ... question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <Graham@601hd.com>
The manufacturers web site is: http://www.polyprod.com/nomarfilm.html.
Graham Kirby
601HD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of baileys
Subject: Zenith-List: Zenith open house ... question
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
Hello.
Yesterday at the Zenith open house I was watching front landing forks being
formed. The demonstrator used a plastic film which he called "No-Mar." It
is sandwiched with the metal being formed and prevents the brake from maring
the metal. He said the stuff was great and a piece of it lasted a long
time. Does anyone know what this stuff is and where it can be obtained?
Thanks, Bob Bailey
Message 3
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| Subject: | 701 gear /strut assy. 7F17-1SP |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick R <n701rr@yahoo.com>
Have I lost it?? (maybe never had it)
Drawing 7-F-17. I need to drill some bolt and rivet holes in the strut assy. but
I cannot find the hole location specs....??
Pardon if this is in the archives, heading there now.
DO not archive.
Rick
Orlando, FL. USA
http://www.geocities.com/n701rr/index.html
---------------------------------
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
Hey everyone. I know some of you are weather buffs like me and wanted
to let you know that I posted some pictures on my web site of the
recent F3/F4 tornado damage near Madison, WI. My girlfriends house
was destroyed, as was my truck, but we were not home when it hit.
Everyone is doing much better now and we will get through this. No,
the Zodiac (parts) was not hurt :-)
If you want to see what it looks like at ground zero, go to
www.toddtown.com and look for the link at the top of the page.
Todd
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | CH701 Alternator output |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Bob
There is serious doubt if you even will get 20A out of the
permanent magnet alternator that comes with the 912S because
a 15A generator circuit breaker typically will never pop.
Count on something like 12A and let the battery take the
bite of occasional heavier loads. Effectively this means
that you can maximum have a 140W continuous load.
One way to drastically reduce consumption is to use all LED
positional and strobe lights. Even then you will have a hard
time to fit your power budget within the 150 watts.
regards
Max
(just now planning circuits for my 701)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 8:45 AM
> To: zenith-list-digest@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: CH701 Alternator output
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
>
> Listers
>
> I am going to be installing my 912S in my 701 soon and was
> wondering if the
> 20 amp alternator is large enough for a VFR night all
> electric plane. I was
> wondering if I could get some feedback from some of you that
> are flying out
> there. Also what size/ kind of battery are you using? My
> plane has strobes, nav
> lights, transponder, intercom, electric turn and bank, color
> 3c moving map, Icom
> 200 comm and I'm sure some other goodies I haven't mentioned.
> I'm not sure
> what this all adds up to, I haven't taken out all the stuff
> and looked at the
> amperage that each one draws yet. Just trying to get a
> feeling of how others
> have done with their planes.
>
> Thanks
> Bob Spudis
> CH701 , 912S Installing the brakes
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
All-
1. Saw Jeff Small's landing light installation while he was at Franklin, Pa.
Thought he scratch-built the mount but he said in a recent e-mail that it came
from Zenith. Can't find a listing in the Zenith Parts Directory. Can anyone
point me in the right direction?
2. Bought a position light set that came off of a V tail Bonanza- it's teardrop
shaped and should look great on a 601. Only one lead going to the bulb. Since
the lights will be mounted to fiberglas, I figured I'd make a ground jumper
with a ring connector to bolt to the backing plate on one end and soldered
to a piece of scrap aluminum I'll rivet to the spar under the rear skin. Comments?
While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the "Complete
Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot, but considering
some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come pretty close.
3. Finally, you're supposed to mount the fiberglas tip rib in such a manner
that your position light backing is 90=B0 to the spar. Mine doesn't even come
close. The only explanation I can come up with is that the fiberglas warped over
time (It's been over two years since it was layed up). Other than a wedge
under the light backing, does anyone have a suggestion?
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
601HDS
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 701 gear /strut assy. 7F17-1SP |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
The holes would be for the bolts and rivets that attach the gear/strut
fittings to the fuslage. Also there are two small drain hole for water to escape
from.
Bob Spudis
Ch701, on wheels
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bill,
Try Bob Nuckoll's book on aircraft wiring found at www.aeroelectric.com
It's as good as it gets and has a lot of wiring diagrams to suggest an
approach
for varying aircraft configurations. Theory to applicaton, all very good.
Larry McFarland
do not archive
William J. Naumuk wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
>
> While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the "Complete
Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot, but considering
some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come pretty close.
>
> Bill Naumuk
> 601HDS
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Also try Jon Croke's "Electrical Wiring 101 for your Homebuilt Aircraft" -
available at HomebuiltHELP.com. Jon has some other very helpful CD's also.
Robert Schoenberger 701
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Bill,
> Try Bob Nuckoll's book on aircraft wiring found at www.aeroelectric.com
> It's as good as it gets and has a lot of wiring diagrams to suggest an
> approach
> for varying aircraft configurations. Theory to applicaton, all very good.
> Larry McFarland
> do not archive
>
> William J. Naumuk wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
>><billn@velocity.net>
>>
>> While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the
>> "Complete Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot,
>> but considering some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come pretty
>> close.
>>
>> Bill Naumuk
>> 601HDS
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Alberti" <daberti@sbcglobal.net>
Don't forget your wing will be at an angle when mounted to the center wing
spar. This will change your final angle.
Dave
-
3. Finally, you're supposed to mount the fiberglas tip rib in such a
manner that your position light backing is 90=B0 to the spar. Mine doesn't
even come close. The only explanation I can come up with is that the
fiberglas warped over time (It's been over two years since it was layed up).
Other than a wedge under the light backing, does anyone have a suggestion?
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
601HDS
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Dave-
Looking at the wing from the top, the dihedral will change the angle in
the Z axis, but not in the X, with the fulcrum being the aluminum
tip/fiberglass tip juncture. that's what I'm having trouble with. (This is
assuming the connection between the mid and outboard section doesn't give
you a slight "Swept wing" effect.)
I'm going downstairs right after I answer the e-mails people graciously
sent with their ideas, and see if putting a shim between the 45 deg L angle
on the spar and the tip rib helps.
Thanks.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Alberti" <daberti@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Alberti" <daberti@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Don't forget your wing will be at an angle when mounted to the center wing
> spar. This will change your final angle.
>
> Dave
>
> -
>
> 3. Finally, you're supposed to mount the fiberglas tip rib in such a
> manner that your position light backing is 90=B0 to the spar. Mine doesn't
> even come close. The only explanation I can come up with is that the
> fiberglas warped over time (It's been over two years since it was layed
up).
> Other than a wedge under the light backing, does anyone have a suggestion?
> Thanks.
> Bill Naumuk
> 601HDS
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Hi, Larry-
Well, thanks to your help you can see that I'm actually breaking new
ground after 2 years rebuilding. I saw the recommendation in your journal
and just want to check out all the options. Good to know lots of diagrams
are included.
Quick question- the nose skin of my rudder has a big ding in it and I
have a scrap of .016 big enough to replace it. Do I have to press the mild
curvature in it, or can I just match drill using the old skin as a template
and wrap it around the ribs by hand?
Thanks.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Bill,
> Try Bob Nuckoll's book on aircraft wiring found at www.aeroelectric.com
> It's as good as it gets and has a lot of wiring diagrams to suggest an
> approach
> for varying aircraft configurations. Theory to applicaton, all very good.
> Larry McFarland
> do not archive
>
> William J. Naumuk wrote:
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
<billn@velocity.net>
> >
> > While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the
"Complete Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot, but
considering some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come pretty close.
> >
> > Bill Naumuk
> > 601HDS
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Robert-
Yours is the second recommendation of this book- looking into it ASAP.
Thanks.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger"
<hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>
> Also try Jon Croke's "Electrical Wiring 101 for your Homebuilt Aircraft" -
> available at HomebuiltHELP.com. Jon has some other very helpful CD's
also.
> Robert Schoenberger 701
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
<larrymc@qconline.com>
> >
> > Bill,
> > Try Bob Nuckoll's book on aircraft wiring found at www.aeroelectric.com
> > It's as good as it gets and has a lot of wiring diagrams to suggest an
> > approach
> > for varying aircraft configurations. Theory to applicaton, all very
good.
> > Larry McFarland
> > do not archive
> >
> > William J. Naumuk wrote:
> >
> >>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
> >><billn@velocity.net>
> >>
> >> While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the
> >> "Complete Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot,
> >> but considering some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come
pretty
> >> close.
> >>
> >> Bill
Naumuk
> >> 601HDS
> >>
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Cutting the HD canopy |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Steer" <bsteer@gwi.net>
I'm trying to follow the ZAC sequence for assembling the canopy on my HD -
fit the frame to the fuselage, then fit the canopy to the fuse, then fit the
canopy to the frame. The frame, which is the side-tilt variety, is complete
and built to the dimensions shown on both the original plans and on the CAD
plans. Now, when I set the canopy in place over the frame, the curvature of
both the front and rear of the canopy where it meets the skins is a perfect
fit, but there's about an inch between the canopy and the frame both front
and rear, at the centerline. Also, the canopy is longer, fore and aft, than
the dimensions shown in the plans by about 50mm. A friend who's building an
XL tells me the instructions for that version call for fitting the frame
hoops to the canopy, rather than vice versa.
So there are a couple of questions... First, do I have the assembly order
correct and, if I do, what's the best way to cut the canopy so it fits both
the fuselage and the frame? That is, should cuts be made parallel to the
existing canopy front and rear edges, or should the cuts taper from zero at
the bottom edge to some value in the middle? Or should I use the canopy
as-is, except for the bottom horizontal edge on both sides, and build new
frame hoops to fit the canopy. Oh, and there's plenty of headroom inside
the canopy, so trimming it wouldn't be a problem height-wise.
Thanks very much for any help and advice.
Bill
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bill,
The nose skin on the rudder requires you bend it under a piece of
plywood with a 7/8" wood spacer that would prevent
you from kinking the radius too tightly, but the answer to your question
would be "probably", if the radius is very close to
what you had on the original. I'd bend the radius first, then use the
original as template for marking edges, and then, if the holes are
already in your rudder ribs etc, I'd place the old one tightly over the
new one and match mark the edges.
A foolproof way to duplicate holes from an old template is to buy some
clear acetate film from your local art supply store and tape it to the
old piece aligning the edges. Then, ink mark the holes seen thru the
acetate and then transfer the marked holes of the nose piece onto the
newly bent one using the edges to align the acetate. Making a locational
match reference will be key for using the acetate. When you're done with
the acetate, wipe it clean with thinner for reuse on your next piece
needing a duplicate or left hand right hand pattern.
Hope this helps,
Larry McFarland
William J. Naumuk wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
>
>Hi, Larry-
> Well, thanks to your help you can see that I'm actually breaking new
>ground after 2 years rebuilding. I saw the recommendation in your journal
>and just want to check out all the options. Good to know lots of diagrams
>are included.
> Quick question- the nose skin of my rudder has a big ding in it and I
>have a scrap of .016 big enough to replace it. Do I have to press the mild
>curvature in it, or can I just match drill using the old skin as a template
>and wrap it around the ribs by hand?
> Thanks.
> Bill
>
> do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
>
>
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>>
>>Bill,
>>Try Bob Nuckoll's book on aircraft wiring found at www.aeroelectric.com
>>It's as good as it gets and has a lot of wiring diagrams to suggest an
>>approach
>>for varying aircraft configurations. Theory to applicaton, all very good.
>>Larry McFarland
>>do not archive
>>
>>William J. Naumuk wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
>>>
>>>
><billn@velocity.net>
>
>
>>>While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the
>>>
>>>
>"Complete Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot, but
>considering some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come pretty close.
>
>
>>> Bill Naumuk
>>> 601HDS
>>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
All-
Spent an hour trying different things with the fiberglas tip rib. It IS
"S" shaped, with the geometry moving inboard towards the root.
"Overtrimming" the nose skin inboard to fit, rather than placing a shim
under the light assembly seems to be the best fix. STOP ME IF YOU THINK I'M
WRONG!!
Thanks to all who offered their suggestions re: Aircraft Electrical.
Considered the options, went with AeroElectric Connection because they
offered printed schematics, a general instruction CD, and free updates for
$33.00.
Thanks again.
Bill
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Lighting,etc. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Larry-
Out of curiosity, where in the heck did you find the bend instructions?
I looked through every piece of Zenith literature I have and couldn't find
anything.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Bill,
> The nose skin on the rudder requires you bend it under a piece of
> plywood with a 7/8" wood spacer that would prevent
> you from kinking the radius too tightly, but the answer to your question
> would be "probably", if the radius is very close to
> what you had on the original. I'd bend the radius first, then use the
> original as template for marking edges, and then, if the holes are
> already in your rudder ribs etc, I'd place the old one tightly over the
> new one and match mark the edges.
> A foolproof way to duplicate holes from an old template is to buy some
> clear acetate film from your local art supply store and tape it to the
> old piece aligning the edges. Then, ink mark the holes seen thru the
> acetate and then transfer the marked holes of the nose piece onto the
> newly bent one using the edges to align the acetate. Making a locational
> match reference will be key for using the acetate. When you're done with
> the acetate, wipe it clean with thinner for reuse on your next piece
> needing a duplicate or left hand right hand pattern.
> Hope this helps,
>
> Larry McFarland
>
>
> William J. Naumuk wrote:
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
<billn@velocity.net>
> >
> >Hi, Larry-
> > Well, thanks to your help you can see that I'm actually breaking new
> >ground after 2 years rebuilding. I saw the recommendation in your journal
> >and just want to check out all the options. Good to know lots of diagrams
> >are included.
> > Quick question- the nose skin of my rudder has a big ding in it and I
> >have a scrap of .016 big enough to replace it. Do I have to press the
mild
> >curvature in it, or can I just match drill using the old skin as a
template
> >and wrap it around the ribs by hand?
> > Thanks.
> > Bill
> >
> > do not archive
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
> >To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lighting,etc.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
<larrymc@qconline.com>
> >>
> >>Bill,
> >>Try Bob Nuckoll's book on aircraft wiring found at www.aeroelectric.com
> >>It's as good as it gets and has a lot of wiring diagrams to suggest an
> >>approach
> >>for varying aircraft configurations. Theory to applicaton, all very
good.
> >>Larry McFarland
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>William J. Naumuk wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
> >>>
> >>>
> ><billn@velocity.net>
> >
> >
> >>>While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend the equivalent to the
> >>>
> >>>
> >"Complete Idiot's Guide to Aircraft Wiring"? I'm not a complete idiot,
but
> >considering some of the mistakes I've made in the past, I come pretty
close.
> >
> >
> >>> Bill
Naumuk
> >>> 601HDS
> >>>
> >>> do not archive
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | 601XL 3300 Carb Mixture |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, got a question for all you folks with 3300s. How do you
tell on the ground how much to adjust the mixture? A couple weeks ago I
installed an H & N high performance air filter. A lot less restrictive. I wrote
the
Thread asking if it will effect the mixture, Remember? The answers were
uniformly that the carb was self compensating so no adjustment would probably be
required. Because of mid level cloud cover I had not got over 4 K since and the
engine seemed to run OK. Today I climbed up to 6.5 K and the mill started
running rough and losing power. Temps were still in the green and no throttle
setting would clean it up. I started looking to see if I could make the runway.
It was almost 100 degrees so I figured it couldn't be carb ice but I pulled
the control and the engine immediately ran smooth. I pushed it back in,
immediately rough again. I tried it at all throttle settings 200 rpm breaks and
though
I could maintain altitude my speed dropped off to under 100. I got near the
strip and started easing her down and at about 3.5 K she ran smooth without
carb heat. Now I do not think it was the heat, it was that the plumbing for
carb heat is more restrictive and that made her run richer. So I figure I need
to
make the carb richer. I know the screw that controls the mixture, but is
there any way to determine just how rich to adjust her without taking the bird
up
for test flights every quarter turn ? Best regards, Bill of Hot Georgia
Message 19
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| Subject: | 601XL Parts for Sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jorge Prieto <prietoj@comcast.net>
I have the following parts for sale:
1 wing kit (never started) with the fuel system kit, landing light
kit, electric aileron trim tab, wing baggage locker kit
1 tail section 80% completed
1 set of Drawings and manual
Total Invested $8,470.00. Sell for $6,000.
I bought a Rans Super Coyote II.
I am located in Dallas, TX. Have numerous photos
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